What a remarkable tour! As piseach, or good fortune, would have it, somehow all the moons, shamrocks, and lucky charms came together to pave our “rocky road to [and from] Dublin,” one stonechat at a time.  All that was missing were the little people, but then that takes more “of the drink,” as they say in Ireland. Most noticeable from our coach was the ever-changing verdant countryside—the forty shades of green. Of course, our Ireland held many less conspicuous features as well, such as her archaeological and ecclesiastical sites, her extraordinary history (right down to the present), her artisan and oral traditions, and her wealth of literature, all of which we were given to reflect on.  For those with any Irish whiskey whatsoever in their blood, a trip to this charmed and charming land can be akin to experiencing a vertiginous yet beautiful recurring dream.

On our tour we were visiting Ireland to explore its special mix of birds, traditional music, pubs, history, and culture. Although it was understood that the diversity of avian species in Ireland leaves the birder with little to write home about, an autumnal triplist of 101 species is respectable. Notable finds for this time of year included:  a tight flock of 12 Dowitchers (most likely Long-billed), one Arctic Loon, a Common Sandpiper, and one tardy Northern Wheatear. However, what we lost in avian diversity, we gained in sheer numbers of wintering birds that grace Ireland at this time of year. Most noticeable and indeed characteristic of Ireland at this season are huge populations of waterfowl, shorebirds, and gulls, in some cases in the hundreds of thousands.

A full-breasted European Robin. (Photo by guide John Rowlett)

However, some of our sensational encounters with singletons deserve recall:  the always difficult-to-see Water Rail out for a stroll, the forever-in-motion Dipper transfixed on a rock mid-stream, that Irish Coal Tit chasing an elusive illusion. All of the avian highlights are too numerous to mention here, but we hope that reading the recollections annotated on the triplist will result in an occasional smile of half-remembrance, somewhat like the welcoming Robin’s fall fluting.

The Latin word hibernicus has a dual reference, signifying both wintry matters–that is, things pertaining to, or proper to winter–and Ireland–perhaps a boreal isle hibernating in the Gulf Stream! The Romans referred to this land as Hibernia and, ever since, poets have used the traditional word to evoke the fireside magic the Emerald Isle has to offer. All three avian endemics to Ireland–subspecies of the Dipper, Coal Tit, and Jay–are named hibernicus.  So I suppose this, our second Field Guides “Birding Plus” tour to Hibernia, might well be thought of as “Irish birding and pubbing before the onset of hibernation.” For just what are hides and pubs but year-round Hibernacles?

Our evening at Tossie's Cottage. (Photo by guide John Rowlett)

Whereas birding served as the tenor that carried us to Hibernia, seeking out traditional pubs and absorbing pub culture proved our lofty vehicle. We accomplished that in true Irish fashion, transported by the forms of instrumental music, foot dancing, pub singing, poetry reading, and storytelling that transpired in museums, pubs, and session houses. Who could forget our absolutely magical evening at Tossie’s? Our sensational pub sessions? Or the intergeneric performance by Tommy Sands? Or Tom Sweeney’s chilling rendition of “And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda”? What of Peadar Morgan’s daughter playing the bagpipes as we sipped the old smuggler’s poteen and hot totties? Or Eugene at his best on Peter’s coach–or on any occasion? Or each of our group gamely reciting their limericks?

The Irish have no word for success, but we all agreed that our lives were enriched. If you’re like us, upon returning home you heard for days (and may still hear) the songs we all sung arising unbidden from within. Perhaps that, after all, is the signature of Irish success. Thanks to good friends and new friends of Field Guides alike for allowing us the opportunity to share with you Ireland as we imagine her and for becoming an integral part of this collaborative journey in search of the craic. Erin Go Bragh!

Karen and Terry McEneaney join in the song. (Photo by guide John Rowlett)