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Field Guides Tour Report
Antarctica, the Falkland Islands & South Georgia Cruise 1989
Jan 31, 1989 to Feb 18, 1989
Bret Whitney


10 February 1989: On that rare day on South Georgia, when air temperatures exceeded 60F, many thousands of Black-browed Albatrosses soared high above their island fortress. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.

The Logbook Abstract for our Society Expeditions cruise aboard the M. V. 'World Discoverer,' which gives the noon data (including position and weather) and landing data for each day of our itinerary, can be found at this link.

Symbols:

P - Puerto Williams, on Isla Navarino, Chile (brief observations while waiting to board the 'World Discoverer')

H - Cape Horn (species seen/reported during our landing there)

D - Drake Passage (species seen at sea between our departure from Cape Horn and approach to Nelson Island)

A - Antarctic Peninsula (all areas from Elephant Island south)

o - South Orkney Islands (primarily Signy Island) and vicinity

Ss - southern Scotia Sea (between Orkneys and South Georgia)

G - South Georgia and immediate vicinity (including Cooper and Prion Islands)

Sn - northern Scotia Sea (between South Georgia and the Falklands)

F - Falkland Islands and immediate vicinity (primarily Carcass and New Islands, and cruising between the two)

M - species seen between the Falklands and the entrance to the Straits of Magellan (sightings essentially ended as we entered the Straits of Magellan at dusk on 17 February)


KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant


BIRDS
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
BLACK-NECKED SWAN (Cygnus melancoryphus) – A -- Approximately eight individuals were noted, this representing part of an invasion of this species to the Antarctic Peninsula; only one such southward occurrence has been recorded before, that of much smaller scale. The southernmost was one bird at Petermann Island, and we noted them at Deception, Halfmoon, and Port LocKroy (other areas?) as well.
UPLAND GOOSE (Chloephaga picta) – Many tame individuals, especially on Carcass Island.
KELP GOOSE (Chloephaga hybrida) – F -- Common, especially on Carcass Is; young fully grown, but near their parents.
RUDDY-HEADED GOOSE (Chloephaga rubidiceps) – F -- Approximately 20 of these rare fowl on Carcass Island; this species is rarely encountered outside the Falklands, on the South American continent or Tierra del Fuego.)
FLYING STEAMER-DUCK (Tachyeres patachonicus) – F -- Perhaps one pair seen along the edge of the Bay on Carcass Island, but I am not entirely sure of it -- I am inclined to think that all of the S-D's we saw in the Falklands were of the flightless persuasion, myself.
FLIGHTLESS STEAMER-DUCK (Tachyeres pteneres) – P -- One pair along the bay edge near the end of the airstrip.
FALKLAND STEAMER-DUCK (Tachyeres brachypterus) – F -- Something like 30 pairs, some with independent juveniles, along the edge of the bay on Carcass Island. After some deliberation, I am pretty well convinced that all S-D's we saw in the Falklands were this species. They were delightfully common.
CRESTED DUCK (Lophonetta specularioides) – F -- Fairly numerous.


Light-mantled Albatrosses at their nest. This is surely among the most elegant of all seabirds. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.

YELLOW-BILLED PINTAIL (SOUTH GEORGIA) (Anas georgica georgica) – G -- This duck ("South Georgia Pintail"), often treated as a distinctive subspecies of Yellow-billed Pintail, was quite common at South Georgia, particularly around Stromness. It is endemic to the island, appearing smaller and darker, shorter-necked and shorter-tailed than Yellow-billed Pintails in southern South America.
YELLOW-BILLED TEAL (Anas flavirostris) – F -- Only a couple on Carcass Island.
Spheniscidae (Penguins)
KING PENGUIN (Aptenodytes patagonicus) – G -- Our two landings at large colonies of King Penguins, one at Gold Harbor and the other at Salisbury Plain, were for many the highlight of our trip. Both colonies numbered thousands of breeding pairs, the Salisbury Plain colony estimated at more than 40,000.
EMPEROR PENGUIN (Aptenodytes forsteri) – AO -- While manning observations from the stern on our southbound journey through Gerlache Strait, John Keenleyside saw four large penguins with orange neck patches as they porpoised out of the water. As Kings are not likely to occur here, the birds were very likely Emperors. By the time John had rounded some of us up from the lunch table, we were several minutes past them, but it got us all looking even harder as we drew inside two hundred miles of the Dion Island nesting colony. On the late afternoon of Feb 7, I spotted one subadult bird in the water dead-ahead of the ship, but it was difficult to see and was missed by everyone else except (thank goodness, I might add) Rich Rowlett. This was as we cruised eastward toward the South Orkney Islands along the edge of much drifting pack ice. This quintessential Antarctic bird is very rarely met with north of the Antarctic Circle, and is virtually never seen at sea away from the vicinity of breeding colonies. It was a most fortuitous sighting for me but the excitement of it is lessened by the fact that so few got to see it. As Peter commented, "There is no justice in this world!"
ADELIE PENGUIN (Pygoscelis adeliae) – AO -- One large, active colony was visited on Petermann Island, providing us a memorable afternoon on a warm, sunny day amidst about one thousand Adelies. Although we were quite near the end of the breeding cycle for this species, we noted some birds carrying stones to nest sites and others engaged in courtship behavior, probably pre-breeders "practicing" for next year. Most of the chicks were about 2/3 grown or older. Nesting colonies we visited on King George and Signy Islands had already been deserted for the winter.
GENTOO PENGUIN (Pygoscelis papua) – AOGM -- Of numerous colonies seen, the largest was several thousand birds on Halfmoon Island; small colonies ranged in size from a few pairs to a couple of hundred. Most chicks were more than half-grown, but there were a few nests with very young chicks and a parent in attendance.
CHINSTRAP PENGUIN (Pygoscelis antarcticus) – DAOSsG -- This was the most abundant species of penguin in the areas we visited along the Antarctic Peninsula and South Shetlands. The colony at Bailey Head on Deception Island alone numbered hundreds of thousands. Chicks were one-half to nearly fully grown in all areas we visited. Our southernmost record was of three individuals (one performing an "ecstatic" display) on Petermann Island, and the northernmost, one lonely bird noted on Cooper Island, S. Georgia.
MAGELLANIC PENGUIN (Spheniscus magellanicus) – HSnFM -- Colonies of this burrow-nesting species were visited at Cape Horn and on Carcass Island in the Falklands; chicks were about 3/4 grown to fully grown.
MACARONI PENGUIN (Eudyptes chrysolophus) – ASsG -- Among many Chinstraps on Elephant Island in the South Shetlands, we found three Macaroni Penguins: two beautiful adults and one immature. Then, at Cooper Island, South Georgia, we landed amidst a colony of over one thousand Macaronis, whose chicks were about one-half grown. It was a glorious, sunny morning. There was also a large though unapproachable colony on the south slope of Elsehul Fjord on S. Georgia.
SOUTHERN ROCKHOPPER PENGUIN (Eudyptes chrysocome) – DF -- Our first sightings were of a couple of small groups in Drake Passage, but we didn't really experience Rockhoppers for all they're worth until we landed at New Island in the Falklands. Here we marveled at the picturesque colony of thousands of birds, as they screamed, hopped, and fought all around us. Although we learned that the majority of this colony had already gone to sea after the nesting season, the sight was still one of bounding abundance.
Diomedeidae (Albatrosses)
YELLOW-NOSED ALBATROSS (ATLANTIC) (Thalassarche chlororhynchos chlororhynchos) – D -- Peter excitedly spotted an adult bird a few hours south of Cape Horn as we headed toward the Diego Ramirez Islands. This was an astoundingly rare find, as this species has never before been recorded from the Drake Passage. The bird appeared to be of the Indian Ocean race bassi, which makes this record even more amazing, as the race one would probably predict to occur in Drake Passage would be the nominate, which breeds on islands in the subtropical Atlantic, much closer to the area of our sighting. I obtained one photo at long range through the window of the observation deck, but it is a fairly good photo. (dorsal view, unfortunately, as the diagnostic characters of the subspecies are in the underwing)


At Salisbury Plain on South Georgia, tens of thousands of King Penguins hold their single egg atop their feet, warmed and protected by a thick fold of abdominal skin. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.

GRAY-HEADED ALBATROSS (Thalassarche chrysostoma) – All areas except PM. We picked up our first individuals of this beautiful bird soon after leaving Cape Horn. Our southernmost records were of several birds around the South Shetlands. Most abundant by far in the vicinity of South Georgia, especially in Elsehul Fjord, where hundreds were nesting on steep, tussock-covered slopes, sometimes beside Black-browed Albatrosses; unfortunately, Elsehul is not deemed a safe landing area, and we had to settle for our nesting Gray-headed Albatrosses from a Zodiac; even so, courtship behavior was seen well, as were many half-grown chicks. We had many fantastic views of adult Gray-headeds at sea, but only three or four subadults were noted on the entire cruise.
BLACK-BROWED ALBATROSS (BLACK-BROWED) (Thalassarche melanophris melanophris) – All areas, including the docking area in Puerto Williams. This was easily the most abundant albatross of our voyage, and is indeed the most abundant species on a world-wide scale. Our southernmost record was of one in Gerlache Strait, and we noted three or four individuals around the South Shetlands; these records represent wanderers to the southern edges of the species' range. Few subadult birds were noted, these concentrated from about 53 northwards. We enjoyed fantastic views of them on their breeding grounds at Cooper Island, South Georgia and at New Island in the Falklands.
LIGHT-MANTLED ALBATROSS (Phoebetria palpebrata) – DAOSsGSn -- This is surely one of the most elegant of all seabirds. We picked up our first bird in Drake Passage (only a couple seen there), but our first excitingly close views came as we drew near to broken pack ice en route to the South Orkneys. A rather rushed hike from Grytviken on South Georgia produced wonderful views of chicks and pairs of adults wheeling and swishing overhead on a beautiful sunny morning. That same afternoon some of us struck out along the beach at Stromness and discovered three or four nesting pairs on a steep slope covered with tussock grass. Here we thrilled to arm's-length studies of pairs of Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses on their nests. We left this cold-water species behind as we cruised northwards of about 53.
ROYAL ALBATROSS (SOUTHERN) (Diomedea epomophora epomophora) – DSnM -- Many fine sightings of this great albatross, which is known to nest only in the New Zealand area. There it has two quite distinctive populations which are presently regarded as subspecies, but which would seem to such a peripheral observer as myself, to be deserving of specific rank. These are the nominate D. e. epomophora, which has much white on the dorsal surface of the wings and is thus quite similar to Wandering Albatross in appearance, and D. e. sanfordi, the distinguishing characters of which are its wholly chocolate-brown upperwings and a narrow strip of this same color along the leading edge of the underwing from the "wrist" to the primaries. The former is often called "southern" Royal Albatross and the latter "Northern" Royal Albatross, in reference to the geographic location of their nesting grounds with respect to each other. We noted both of them, but in a ratio that I estimated to be at least 2:1 in favor of "Northern." They were particularly common around the Falklands, where the daily total was about 30 individuals. Royal is a bird of continental waters, not often recorded far out to sea; Wandering tends to be the great albatross of the vast ocean far from shore, although they often enter coastal waters.
ROYAL ALBATROSS (NORTHERN) (Diomedea epomophora sanfordi) – See Royal Albatross (Southern) above.
WANDERING ALBATROSS (SNOWY) (Diomedea exulans exulans) – DSsGSn -- Numerous plumages seen at sea, ranging from subadults as young as about three years, to old adults, these last-mentioned seen so wonderfully at their nests on Prion Island in the Bay of Isles at South Georgia. These nesting birds were sitting on eggs, and to the best of my knowledge, no chicks were found in the area. Pairs of adults were seen at some of the nests, and some fascinating courtship or pair-bonding behavior was observed by some people, in spite of rainy squalls passing on stiff winds every few minutes while we were ashore. I estimated a maximum of about 25 per day at sea.
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
SOUTHERN GIANT-PETREL (Macronectes giganteus) – All areas. Hundreds seen, including numerous white-morph birds. They were nesting on rocky beaches and mounds on Nelson Island in the South Shetlands, allowing close approach. Chicks in these nests were about 1/3 grown. There were several white-morph adults nesting here.
NORTHERN GIANT-PETREL (Macronectes halli) – DOSsGSnF -- This species was not seen at the nest, although we had many excellent studies of them at sea, often side-by-side with S. Giant-Petrel, as they followed the ship. Only about four individuals noted in Drake Passage, and only one around the Falklands; most common around South Georgia.
SOUTHERN FULMAR (Fulmarus glacialoides) – DAO -- One seen in Drake Passage, a few as we headed south near Neumayer Channel, but not really in evidence until we headed east from Elephant Island, drawing near broken pack ice. Here they were truly abundant, with several thousand noted on Feb 7 & 8; many of these were in obvious wing- and tail-molt. This species was not encountered at the nest.
ANTARCTIC PETREL (Thalassoica antarctica) – O -- What a thrill! Upon Manny's exuberant sighting from the Observation Lounge, the ship speaker system sounded Peter's "Bird Alert!" and the radio crackled on the stern with the message that an ardently sought Antarctic Petrel had just been seen heading past the bow and away from the boat at three o'clock. The stern was immediately swarming with birders, and over the next 30 minutes, everyone caught up with at least one of the three birds that briefly perused the ship. We were in the vicinity of several huge tabular icebergs, and a couple of distant Russian fishing trawlers, the combination of which we can thank for our only Antarctic Petrels of the trip. To add to the mood, it was snowing at the time, and there were at least one hundred Pintado Petrels with us. Two of the birds were in heavy wing- and body-molt, and one appeared to be almost finished with its wing molt.


Getting up close to nesting Gray-headed Albatrosses is usually not possible these days… we shall see. Remind me to someday tell you the story of how this photo came into existence. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.

CAPE PETREL (Daption capense capense) – DAOSsG -- Hundreds of these striking birds sometimes surrounded the ship, particularly around Elephant Island and near South Georgia. We observed them at their nests in rock crevices and on rock ledges on conical igneous rock plugs on Nelson Island (where Peter said they were having a poor reproductive season), on cliffs at the edge of "Neptune's Bellows" entering Deception Island, and on cliffs on Signy Island in the South Orkneys. Many of the birds seen were in molt. We saw no Pintado Petrels after steaming northwards of about 53.
SNOW PETREL (Pagodroma nivea) – OG -- In sum, probably more than 100 individuals of this lovely Antarctic bird were seen, virtually all as they coursed low over floating pack ice that had drifted northwards from the Weddell Sea. They were particularly common as we neared the South Orkneys, and we were fortunate to have Peter with us to find us a half-grown, downy white chick huddled on its nest in a dark hole in a cliff. Two birds were noted near the southern end of South Georgia, where the species has been seen only rarely, although it is known to nest sparingly on that great island.
KERGUELEN PETREL (Aphrodroma brevirostris) – GSn -- Only four or five individuals of this dark, fast-moving petrel were seen, three of which as we headed north from Bird Island at the northern end of South Georgia. One or two were seen early the next morning.
SOFT-PLUMAGED PETREL (Pterodroma mollis) – Sn -- Something like 250 of these beautiful petrels were seen, at times very close to the ship for several minutes; all were noted north of about 53, around and north of the Antarctic Convergence.
WHITE-HEADED PETREL (Pterodroma lessonii) – Sn -- One report, I believe in the vicinity of 53 (not seen by me)
ATLANTIC PETREL (Pterodroma incerta) – Sn -- There were three separate sightings of this subtropical species in the vicinity of 52, rarely [ever before?] reported south of the Falkland Islands at 51. Not seen within one day's cruise south of the Falklands.
BLUE PETREL (Halobaena caerulea) – DASs -- We estimated over 100 individuals seen during our first day in Drake Passage (reflecting the abundance of breeders in the Cape Horn region), few the next day, a few east of Elephant Island, and one at the edge of pack ice north of the S. Orkneys. We had many excellent views, and on a few occasions, in direct comparison with the rather similar Antarctic Prion.)
FAIRY PRION (Pachyptila turtur) – M -- One bird was seen by myself and Harvey King from the Captain's Bridge just as we spotted the Fin Whales; this was the only sighting of the trip.
ANTARCTIC PRION (Pachyptila desolata) – DOSsGSn(F?) -- This beautiful bird was seen on the nest (hollows beneath rocks or among rocks) and in the hand on Signy Island in the S. Orkneys, and nest burrows riddled the ground on Prion Island South Georgia. Off Cooper Island, S. Georgia, these birds settled on the water in masses that must have numbered in the tens of thousands, which was for me some of the most impressive evidence of the fecundity of the Southern Ocean. Only a couple were seen north of the Antarctic Convergence (Sn) and I saw one pretty well as we cruised between Carcass and New Islands in the Falklands, but owing to the fact that this is unseasonally out-of-range for the species, and given the difficulty of identifying prions at sea, I prefer to leave it short of a solid record.
SLENDER-BILLED PRION (Pachyptila belcheri) – OSnF -- Peter showed us the chick (adults are in the burrows only during the hours of darkness) of this prion on New Island in the Falklands, informing us that this is the most abundant bird of the Falkland Islands. Subsequently, we failed to see the “thousands” Peter promised would be around the boat as we departed the Falklands (having missed the phenomenon on the way in as well), for which happenstance he still owes us (how many?) bottles of champagne. Looks like we'll have to catch up with him on another cruise, eh? Of great interest was our sighting of this species at 60 south, near the South Orkneys, much further south than it is supposed to occur. These sightings, of three or four birds following the ship for more than ten minutes and in direct comparison with Antarctic Prion, certainly seemed to pertain to this species.)
GRAY PETREL (Procellaria cinerea) – Sn -- Approximately forty individuals were seen, an unprecedented number of sightings in this area according to Peter; up to six were seen flying together on a couple of occasions. We noted them only north of about 53.
WHITE-CHINNED PETREL (Procellaria aequinoctialis) – DASsGSnFM -- Many seen well at sea. Our southernmost sighting was of one just east of Elephant Island in the South Shetlands group. Peter produced one from a nest burrow on the grassy slopes above Stromness on South Georgia.
GREAT SHEARWATER (Ardenna gravis) – DSnFM -- One in Drake Passage, but not seen in numbers until we left South Georgia, when they became abundant until we drew near the Falklands; only a few seen west of the Falklands.
SOOTY SHEARWATER (Ardenna grisea) – DSnFM -- This species was most abundant during our first day south of Cape Horn in the DraKe Passage, and was not noted again until we had departed South Georgia, where it ranked with Greater Shearwater and Black-browed Albatross as the most common tubenoses.


From a photograph, it’s impossible to get an accurate feel for the size of these Wandering Albatrosses, here at their nest on Prion Island. The bill is nearly a foot long! The male (left) was actively adding mud and grass to the nest mound as the female incubated their single egg. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.

MANX SHEARWATER (Puffinus puffinus) – SnM -- One was spotted near 52, then about ten were noted as we neared the South American mainland after leaving the Falklands.
LITTLE SHEARWATER (SUBANTARCTIC) (Puffinus assimilis elegans) – Sn -- Three or four were seen well in the vicinity of 52 as we cruised the northern Scotia Sea en route to the Falklands. They appeared to be of the dark-faced race elegans. Only in recent years has it been recognized that this species occurs so far south.
COMMON DIVING-PETREL (Pelecanoides urinatrix) – DSsGSnFM -- The most common diving-petrel of the trip, present in large numbers around South Georgia, and again around the Falklands. Peter gave us a side-by-side, in-hand comparison with South Georgian D-P, shoving us the great similarity of juveniles of the two species and the all-blue leg of this species, including a black spot where the leg touches the ground, wearing away the blue scalation.
SOUTH GEORGIA DIVING-PETREL (Pelecanoides georgicus) – G -- Seen ideally, yes, in the hand, thanks to Howie's persistence in searching the decks for birds that might have come aboard ship in the night around South Georgia -- he found one bird at the last minute! In a side-by-side comparison with Common D-P, Peter showed us the pale feathers in the scapulars, and most strikingly, the narrow black line that marks the back of the otherwise blue leg of this species, its only truly unique "fieldmark."
MAGELLANIC DIVING-PETREL (Pelecanoides magellani) – HM -- Good views of this distinctive species; a few near Cape Horn, and probably several hundred with about 70 miles of the entrance to the eastern entrance to the straits of Magellan; we may possibly have seen some of this species near the Falklands as well.
Hydrobatidae (Storm-Petrels)
WILSON'S STORM-PETREL (Oceanites oceanicus) – All areas except PH. Said to be the most abundant bird in the world, but this was hard to appreciate on our trip. Although seen daily and almost constantly in view at sea, they were never gathered in feeding flocks or masses resting on the water, for instance. Peter showed some of us an adult on its nest in a rocky hollow in a cliff on Signy Island in the South Orkneys.
GRAY-BACKED STORM-PETREL (Garrodia nereis) – GSnFM -- After much talk about whether some us were seeing this species or figments of our imaginations, everyone caught up with good sightings of numerous birds at sea, and thanks to Manny and Azalea, incredible looks at a bird in the hand which had landed aboard ship in the night.
BLACK-BELLIED STORM-PETREL (Fregetta tropica) – DAOSsGSn -- Vast majority of sightings south of the Antarctic Convergence; southernmost in the vicinity of Deception Island, where a few nest near "Neptune's Bellows." Many fine views at sea.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
MAGELLANIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax magellanicus) – HF -- Observed at their cliff nests on Cape Horn. Blue-eyed Shag (Phalacrocorax atriceps) DAOG Major visit to nesting colony was on Petermann Island.
IMPERIAL CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax atriceps albiventer) – PDF -- The only nesting colony seen was on New Island in the Falklands, but we were turned back by cold rain before we could hike to it.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax) – PF -- One around the dock at Puerto Williams, and a nesting colony around the McGill residence on Carcass Island in the Falklands.
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura) – F -- Several on Carcass Island.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
VARIABLE HAWK (Geranoaetus polyosoma) – F -- About six noted on Carcass and New Islands.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
PLUMBEOUS RAIL (Pardirallus sanguinolentus) – H -- Heard, and for some seen briefly, near a puddle amid tall tussock-grass.


At times, especially in the vicinity of South Georgia, there were thousands and thousands of handsome Antarctic Prions around the ship. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.

Chionidae (Sheathbills)
SNOWY SHEATHBILL (Chionis albus) – AOGF -- Present around all seabird colonies, these scavengers soon became a familiar sight. Several nests were located in rock crevices, most notably on Nelson, Halfmoon, and Elephant Islands. Chicks ranged from about 1/3 to 3/4 grown.
Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
MAGELLANIC OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus leucopodus) – HF -- Close studies. Blackish Oystercatcher (Haematopus ater) PF One pair was accompanied by a beautifully brown-barred juvenile on Carcass Island.
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SOUTH AMERICAN SNIPE (MAGELLANIC) (Gallinago paraguaiae magellanica) – F -- Three or four seen at close range on Carcass Island; they were actually running rapidly in the tussock-grass.
Stercorariidae (Skuas and Jaegers)
CHILEAN SKUA (Stercorarius chilensis) – PH -- Not many.
SOUTH POLAR SKUA (Stercorarius maccormicki) – AO -- From Deception Island south as we headed down, then noted as far north as Signy Island in the South Orkneys as we headed back north. This was the predominant skua south of the South Shetlands, with a few scattered among the more common Antarctic Skua in the S. Shetlands northwards. Half-grown downy young noted on Halfmoon and Petermann Islands.
BROWN SKUA (FALKLAND) (Stercorarius antarcticus antarcticus) – AOGSnF -- Most common from the South Shetlands north through the Falklands; nesting pairs with half-grown downy young noted in several areas.
PARASITIC JAEGER (Stercorarius parasiticus) – Sn -- One bird I feel was very likely this species was spotted some distance north of 52)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BROWN-HOODED GULL (Chroicocephalus maculipennis) – M -- Around the dock at Punta Arenas.
DOLPHIN GULL (Leucophaeus scoresbii) – F -- Beautiful views of this elegant gull in and around the Rockhopper Penguin colony on New Island.
KELP GULL (Larus dominicanus) – All areas except open sea (fairly common around all islands, even as far south as Petermann.
ARCTIC TERN (Sterna paradisaea) – 0 -- Numerous groups of two to twenty birds on and around the drifting pack ice between Elephant Island and the South Orkneys. They were all in non-breeding plumage, and most were in obvious wing-molt, causing them to beat the wings more rapidly than usual to make progress. Apparently the pack ice is the key to locating this species on the southern terminus of its incredible migration from its high arctic breeding grounds.
SOUTH AMERICAN TERN (Sterna hirundinacea) – FM
ANTARCTIC TERN (Sterna vittata) – AOG -- Fairly common all along the Antarctic Peninsula and perhaps a bit less so around S. Georgia. Half-grown chicks noted on Nelson Island Feb 3, and strong-flying juveniles seen at Stromness, S. Georgia Feb 11)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
STRIATED CARACARA (Phalcoboenus australis) – HF -- Two of these caracaras were seen well at Cape Horn, one adult and one juvenile. We also saw them well on Carcass Island in the Falklands, but none were noted on New Island (where they are surely more in evidence earlier in the general nesting season). Juveniles are entirely dark brown with faint rufous vermiculations and shaft streaks on the breast and crown at least, and a large cinnamon patch in the base of the primaries and tall. They were quite unafraid of people. This is generally held to be among the rarest raptors in the world.


These Adelie Penguins, flanked by several half-grown youngsters, were engaged in courtship and aggressive displays on a warm (46F), sunny day on remote Petermann Island, along the Antarctic Peninsula. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.

SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus) – F -- A few around.
CHIMANGO CARACARA (Milvago chimango) – P -- Several near the airstrip.
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus) – F -- A few lucky people saw one on New Island.
Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos)
MAGELLANIC TAPACULO (Scytalopus magellanicus) – H -- Calling from the thickest, darkest shrubs.
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
BUFF-WINGED CINCLODES (Cinclodes fuscus) – H -- In the shorter grass areas
BLACKISH CINCLODES (Cinclodes antarcticus) – HF -- A couple in the intertidal area at Cape Horn, particularly where kelp and other debris had accumulated, often foraging down in the rocks, temporarily out-of-sight; abundant in the Falklands, especially in this same intertidal wash.
DARK-BELLIED CINCLODES (Cinclodes patagonicus) – H -- Near the rocky beach
THORN-TAILED RAYADITO (Aphrastura spinicauda) – H -- In thickest shrubs.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
DARK-FACED GROUND-TYRANT (Muscisaxicola maclovianus) – F -- Numerous on Carcass Island.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
COBB'S WREN (Troglodytes cobbi) – F -- The Falklands are inhabited by a distinctive former House Wren subspecies, now elevated to species status: large, and gray through the head and breast; hops around in tussock-grass or on the ground, often flushing up from between rather small rocks at one's feet -- and it sounds strange, too.
SEDGE WREN (AUSTRAL) (Cistothorus platensis hornensis) – F -- In tussock-grass on Carcass Island.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
AUSTRAL THRUSH (Turdus falcklandii) – F -- Common.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
SOUTH GEORGIA PIPIT (Anthus antarcticus) – G -- This is the only species of passerine bird inhabiting the Antarctic zone, if South Georgia is to be included in such. Our first sightings were of birds flying alongside the bow of the ship as we neared Cooper Island. Best views were on Prion Island, but windy rain made it a little difficult. This species has been largely exterminated on the main island of South Georgia by rats introduced during the whaling days; they persist on all the small islands. Closely related to the Correndera Pipit, this species is endemic to South Georgia.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
WHITE-BRIDLED FINCH (Melanodera melanodera) – F -- Several fine views of males, females and immatures on Carcass Island. Like the Ruddy-headed Goose, this species is rarely seen outside the Falklands in extreme southern South America and Tierra del Fuego.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
LONG-TAILED MEADOWLARK (Sturnella loyca) – F -- Fairly common.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
BLACK-CHINNED SISKIN (Spinus barbatus) – P -- A few noted by those of us who were among the last to board the ship in Puerto Williams.


One afternoon along the Antarctic Peninsula, we spent a couple of hours being dwarfed by these colossal icebergs, which had probably calved off the Ross Iceshelf. Photo by guide Bret Whitney.


MAMMALS
DUSKY DOLPHIN (Lagenorhynchus obscurus) – At least three encounters with this species, all between South Georgia and the Falklands.
PEALE'S DOLPHIN (Lagenorhynchus australis) – Excellent views for the few of us who happened to be on the stern of the 'World Discoverer' as she was docked at Punta Arenas on Feb 18.
HOURGLASS DOLPHIN (Lagenorhynchus cruciger) – A spectacular species, seen beautifully as the rode the bow or porpoised along the beam on at least five occasions, all south of the Antarctic convergence, I believe.
SOUTHERN RIGHT WHALE DOLPHIN (Lissodelphis peronii) – One excellent sighting of these elegant dolphins, I believe at approximately 53.
ORCA (Orcinus orca) – We had three or four sightings of these superb animals, a couple of times within a couple of hundred yards of the ship; seen in the open ocean and in Gerlache Strait.
SPERM WHALE (Physeter catodon) – One fine sighting of three or possibly four individuals in a scattered group; unfortunately, I neglected to record the location of the sighting, but I believe it was around 57 between the S. Orkneys and S. Georgia on 9 Feb. They showed the typical forward-projecting spout, blowing every ten seconds for several minutes, then spectacular, sounding dive with caudal peduncle and distinctive flukes raised high above the water. This is surely one of the greatest creatures on Earth.
SOUTHERN BOTTLENOSE WHALE (Hyperoodon planifrons) – At least three good sightings of pairs of these little known cetaceans, in southern Drake Passage south of the Antarctic Convergence, and again south of the Antarctic Convergence between the S. Orkneys and s. Georgia (where Azalea may have gotten some good photos!)
ANTARCTIC MINKE WHALE (Balaenoptera bonaerensis) – Numerous sightings of this small rorqual whale, with up to five in a group, all south of the Antarctic Convergence, along the Antarctic Peninsula and S. Orkneys, especially.
FIN WHALE (Balaenoptera physalus) – Wonderful views of several (up to eight) of these tremendous whales (world's second largest species) in a loose feeding group, the closest pair only a few yards away at times. This sighting was the day after we had left the Falklands, bound for the straits of Magellan.
HUMPBACK WHALE (Megaptera novaeangliae) – Seen well on several occasions, but especially on our northward course through Gerlache Strait, where we drew close to pairs twice for spectacular views. We could even watch them swimming underwater as they moved ahead of the bow!
SOUTHERN SEA LION (Otaria byronia) – One seen in the water near Carcass Island in the Falklands.
ANTARCTIC FUR SEAL (Arctocephalus gazella) – Large numbers seen overall, especially on South Georgia at Elsehul Fjord, but most had already returned to the sea after the breeding season. Once severely depleted by fur hunters, they are coming back quickly and are now a common sight on rocky beaches of the South Shetlands and South Orkneys, and on beaches and tussock-grass areas of South Georgia. (Southern Fur Seal, A. australis, is the fur seal on the Falklands, which I do not believe we saw.)
CRABEATER SEAL (Lobodon carcinophagus) – Numerous sightings of individuals or small groups along the Antarctic Peninsula and many resting on drifting pack ice between Elephant Island and the South Orkneys. This is probably the most abundant species of seal in the world, numbering in excess of 50 million, all confined to the region of Antarctic pack ice. Numerous individuals we saw bore the scars of encounters with Orcas.
LEOPARD SEAL (Hydrurga leptonyx) – Fairly common (two to five per day) along the Antarctic Peninsula; especially fine, close views in Paradise Bay, where one large individual repeatedly circled my Zodiac, surfacing inches away, opening the formidable mouth, submerging to glide smoothly beneath us and come up on the other side -- Dave Kaplan, the Zodiac captain, said that it bit the rubber keel just below his hand -- a thrilling experience! This species is a serious predator on penguins.
WEDDELL SEAL (Leptonychotes weddelli) – Fairly common along the Antarctic Peninsula, seen beautifully on Nelson, Deception, and Halfmoon Islands as individuals basked on the beach. This is a species of inshore Antarctic ice, seldom far from shore. Their large eyes aid in their hunt for fish and squid, which may take place at up to 600 meters depth.
SOUTHERN ELEPHANT SEAL (Mirounga leonina) – Hauled out on beaches at several places we visited (especially Nelson, King George, Signy, and South Georgia). Perhaps our most memorable encounters at Gold Harbour on South Georgia, where huge bulls rose up against each other, bellowing and coughing and grunting deeply with their huge maws agape. Once severely depleted by overhunting, this tremendous beast, the largest of all living seals, is staging a slow but steady comeback.


ADDITIONAL COMMENTS


Totals for the tour: 87 bird taxa and 16 mammal taxa