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Field Guides Tour Report
Ecuador: Rainforest & Andes II 2014
Sep 7, 2014 to Sep 21, 2014
Rose Ann Rowlett (with Oscar Tapuy at Sacha)


The first of two Giant Antpittas that silently appeared when Angel whispered "Maria," this rarity must be at least the third generation of responsive Giants named "Maria." Tour participant Marshall Dahl captured the subtleties of its beautiful plumage in his photo.

With more than 1000 species possible on our 13-day transect of northern Ecuador--from the Choco in the northwest across two Andean cordillera to the Amazon rainforest of the eastern lowlands--we were sure to see some fabulous birds. We enjoyed whatever activity there was in each area sampled, and we focused extra effort on some of the hard-to-see specialties. In the process we had some wonderful experiences with some of Ecuador's foremost prizes, many of them new to most folks in our group.

Aesthetic highlights were many! There was the excitement of our first morning afield, at beautiful Yanacocha, with dazzling pufflegs and Great Sapphirewings and Buff-winged Starfrontlets and Shining Sunbeams. And it got even better at Pacha Quindi, where Tony and Barbara enthusiastically shared 17 additional species of hummers! We marveled at the big white "boots" of the tiny Booted Rackettail and the glowing head of the Buff-tailed Coronet and the incredible Violet-tailed Sylphs. Glittering hummers--one of Ecuador's strong suits--were a theme throughout the Andes, from those shining Crowned Woodnymphs and Green Thorntails, so abundant at the Milpe feeders; to the Velvet-purple Coronet and Empress Brilliant at Refugio Paz; to the Chestnut-breasted Coronet and the Sword-bill at Guango; and we were still seeing a new hummer, the scarce and local Blue-headed Sapphire, on our final afternoon of the tour! All told, we saw an impressive 54 species.

Almost as dazzling as the hummers were the many colorful tanagers, especially the mountain-tanagers and Tangaras. From those first Scarlet-bellied and Blue-winged mountain-tanagers on our first day to the many Opal-rumped, Opal-crowned, and Paradise tanagers foraging in "our canopy tree" at Sacha, we were awed by their colors and patterns.

Another of Ecuador's strong suits is its antpittas. Though not so colorful as hummers and tanagers, they can be equally intoxicating, especially when one can see them well. This was certainly an antpitta trip! The fact that there had been no rain on the west slope for more than a month when we visited Refugio Paz de las Aves likely contributed to our success there; earthworms are surely harder to find when the soil is dry, making a free handout more attractive. Angel & Rodrigo were able to show us all four of the antpittas we tried for there (Yellow-breasted, Giant, Ochre-breasted, & Moustached), as well as an habituated Rufous-breasted Antthrush! While it was tougher on the east slope (with the heavy rains), we managed to see White-bellied and Chestnut-crowned at San Isidro's feeding stations. And, with considerably more effort, we found three more species on our own (Tawny, Slate-crowned, and White-lored), totalling an amazing 9 species of antpittas! And what wonderful looks we had at most of them!

Of course, there were many highlights among additional families. In fact, our antpitta day with Angel started at an Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek, where we watched the bright-red males (of the west-slope race) strutting, flapping, popping, and calling excitedly. And how about that displaying Club-winged Manakin, making its wing noise by stridulation, a process unique among vertebrates? Or those two stunning male Wire-tailed Manakins sitting side by side at their lek? What of that Black-bellied Cuckoo that came right into "our tree" in the canopy at Sacha? Those prehistoric-looking Hoatzins? Or that "San Isidro Owl"? What of that fabulous Ocellated Tapaculo or its aberrant rainforest cousin, the Rusty-belted, that sang from the forest floor as we watched? What of that handsome Collared Puffbird? Or that threesome of interacting Pied Puffbirds from the metal tower? We mustn't forget the extraordinary Toucan Barbet stuffing its bill with bananas or the many toucans and aracaris, including that male Golden-collared Toucanet bowing right below us, tail cocked, as it uttered its croaking calls. I could go on and on with all the canopy birds we saw so well from the three canopy platforms we visited; they added immensely to the quality of our experience with innumerable canopy species.

But as rarely seen birds go, the foremost on our trip were seen from ground (or water) level, usually by creeping along trails: that Chestnut-headed Crake that circled us near Providencia; that Greater Scythebill along the Guacamayos Ridge trail; that singing male Blue Seedeater in the bamboo at Septimo; and, ultimately, that cooperative female Cocha Antshrike along the beautiful Anaconda waterway at Sacha.

Read on for brief annotations on many of the additional species we encountered. Plus, we enjoyed some breathtakingly beautiful scenery. Special thanks to Marshall Dahl and Peggy Keller for sharing their many photos, including the metal canopy vista (PKeller) and the view of Pichincha from Yanacocha (MDahl) on the color cover of the printed version. Credits for other cover photos are given in the text under the species. I've embedded many more photos and a few audio cuts in the online version of this triplist. Enjoy!

The promised reference info for the book we were discussing is A Neotropical Companion: An Introduction to the Animals, Plants, and Ecosytems of the New World Tropics. By John C. Kricher, Princeton Univ. Press, 1997, ISBN 0-691-04433-3. It is on our reference list for the tour.

During our sampling of Ecuador's varied habitats, we stayed in some comfortable lodgings right in great habitats, ate some delicious food, and met some wonderful people. We owe thanks to our hosts, our local guides (especially Oscar, Wilson, Angel, & Rodrigo), and our terrific driver, Edgar, who not only transported us safely, but found us some great birds as well.

I had a great time sharing this transect of Ecuador with you guys. Now that you've sampled some of its riches, consider coming again sometime to Ecuador; there are many more birds to be seen!

Hugs,

Rose Ann


KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant


BIRDS
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
GREAT TINAMOU (Tinamus major) – Our only tinamou that was SEEN, and there were three of them that exploded from the forest floor at Sacha. The one I saw best did indeed fly like a tinamou, but it seemed too small to be a Great Tinamou. Turned out Oscar had seen a full-sized adult fly up first and concluded the other two were young birds. It was all very sudden!
CINEREOUS TINAMOU (Crypturellus cinereus) [*]
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) [*]


The Yanacocha trail winds through montane forest on the slopes of Volcan Pichincha, the peaks of which are visible in the distance. (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

BARTLETT'S TINAMOU (Crypturellus bartletti) – This one was bit of a surprise, duetting along the entrance boardwalk to Sacha one evening at dusk. Some lovely whistles. [*]
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
TORRENT DUCK (Merganetta armata colombiana) – Our first was a male in the rain on a small tributary of the Rio Cosanga, the recent rains having muddied the bigger rivers. We then saw another male hauled out on a boulder at the bridge below the Comedor Susanita, where we stopped for White-capped Dippers.
ANDEAN TEAL (Anas andium) – Marshall found this one for us on the shore of Papallacta Lake.
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)


A male Sapphire-vented Puffleg at Yanacocha, photographed by participant Peggy Keller, lands with its "pufflegs" extended.

SPECKLED CHACHALACA (Ortalis guttata)
ANDEAN GUAN (Penelope montagnii) – Our first one exploded from a nearby tree at Yanacocha, but we all had good looks along the Guacamayos Ridge trail.
SPIX'S GUAN (Penelope jacquacu) – Seen nicely from Sacha's metal tower.
BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis) – Two birds were interacting en route to the interior salt lick, and another was seen on the Providencia trail.
WATTLED GUAN (Aburria aburri) – Heard more than seen, both at Septimo and at San Isidro; but we did see one that flew right below us as we watched Andean Cocks-of-the-rock displaying at Refugio Paz.
Odontophoridae (New World Quail)
MARBLED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus gujanensis) – We fished for this species along the Sacha boardwalk and got an enthusiastic response. A duetting pair came in from a good ways off, but they managed to sneak past and then cross the (way too open!) trail very quickly, leaving us with but a naked eye view.
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga) – Circling above Providencia.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
ZIGZAG HERON (Zebrilus undulatus) – Well, we saw two birds fly across in response to playback--after calling from closer and closer. But it was so dark by then that they were but silhouettes. Still, you could say we EXPERIENCED Zigzags.
RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum) – Another species that was heard more than seen, and seen only in silhouette flying overhead at dawn or dusk.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
CATTLE EGRET (IBIS) (Bubulcus ibis ibis)
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)


This Double-toothed Kite had settled on the cable along the canopy walkway one late afternoon at Sacha. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller).

BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – What a racket they make!
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes melambrotus) – Nice views of both perched and flying birds.
KING VULTURE (Sarcoramphus papa) – A distant settled bird was scoped from the metal tower and then seen wonderfully in flight. It was one of Jose's favorites of the trip.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
HOOK-BILLED KITE (HOOK-BILLED) (Chondrohierax uncinatus uncinatus) – We scoped a gray morph that was sitting along the road near Rio Silanche for great views.
GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis cayanensis) – This species was also perched; scoped from the Silanche tower.
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus) – What graceful beauties!
CRESTED EAGLE (Morphnus guianensis) – We scoped this one from the metal walkway, but it was so far away as to be quite unsatisfying. It was clear that it was either a light morph of this species or a young Harpy, but we took the word of another guide who saw it fly that it was indeed a Crested. Both are extremely rare at Sacha.
BLACK HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus tyrannus) – Heard at Sacha and seen by most over Providencia.
SLENDER-BILLED KITE (Helicolestes hamatus) – We flushed this one along the Anaconda Canoe Trail.
DOUBLE-TOOTHED KITE (Harpagus bidentatus) – We had superb views of this beauty from--and on!--the metal canopy walkway. This species often accompanies troops of monkeys for lizards and other small prey they flush up.
PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea)
SHARP-SHINNED HAWK (PLAIN-BREASTED) (Accipiter striatus ventralis) – One bird flying over Yanacocha.
BICOLORED HAWK (Accipiter bicolor) – We had terrific scope views of this scarce species as it perched and hunted above the interior parrot lick, preying on parakeets.
BARRED HAWK (Morphnarchus princeps) [*]
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)
BLACK-CHESTED BUZZARD-EAGLE (Geranoaetus melanoleucus australis) – En route to Papallacta Pass.
WHITE HAWK (Pseudastur albicollis) – Seen beautifully from the metal canopy tower.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) – Seen flying over Tony & Barbara's.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
GRAY-BREASTED CRAKE (Laterallus exilis) – Oscar and crew used a new method to show us this species, flushing it out toward us on the young island.
BROWN WOOD-RAIL (Aramides wolfi) – At the Rio Silanche. [*]
CHESTNUT-HEADED CRAKE (Anurolimnas castaneiceps) – Seeing this tough-to-see species with the beautiful call was a real highlight of our trip across the Napo to Providencia. Thanks to Oscar, Wilson, and our boatman for opening a little trail into the thicket. I've embedded one cut of its call after playback. Our White-lored Antpitta is calling in the background.
BLACK-BANDED CRAKE (Anurolimnas fasciatus) [*]
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinicus) – The provenance of our Purple Gallinule in the Quito Botanic Gardens is unknown, but there have been a handful of records from the highlands at Quito. Normally, the species is found only in the lowlands on both slopes. A local guide said it had been hanging around the pool where we saw it for several days.
SLATE-COLORED COOT (Fulica ardesiaca) – Papallacta Lake.
Heliornithidae (Finfoots)
SUNGREBE (Heliornis fulica) – We saw singles twice along Orquidea and then saw a different bird along the Providencia tributary. I don't remember ever having seen this species at Sacha before.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus) – A very distant bird on a sandbar on the Napo was seen by John and RAR on our trip back to Coca.
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) – Julie spotted this one for us. It has colonized the agricultural fields in the highlands above San Isidro in recent years, having worked up from the eastern lowlands.
COLLARED PLOVER (Charadrius collaris)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) – Just one of these migrants, along the Rio Silanche. They'll be common here in another month. [b]


The prehistoric-looking Hoatzin has an exceptionally large foregut for processing, ruminant-style, large quantities of leaves, especially those of the Araceae (Arum or Philodendron family), like the large leaves seen in the background of this photo by participant Marshall Dahl.

LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes) – Harbingers of more to come; there were two seen on a Rio Napo sandbar. [b]
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
ANDEAN GULL (Chroicocephalus serranus) – Julie saw one flying from our moving bus, and we never saw another.
YELLOW-BILLED TERN (Sternula superciliaris) – Nice views of a bird on the Napo.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) – Common around the cocha and on the islands.
BAND-TAILED PIGEON (WHITE-NECKED) (Patagioenas fasciata albilinea) – Of the resident race; seen commonly in the western highlands.
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea)
RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea) – We had an impressive show of this species when we fished for it from the Silanche tower and several birds flew in close and sang--and one pair copulated as we watched!
DUSKY PIGEON (Patagioenas goodsoni) – We saw this Choco specialty from the road above the Rio Silanche.
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata hypoleuca)
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (DECOLOR) (Leptotila verreauxi decolor)
PALLID DOVE (Leptotila pallida) – We managed a look at a calling bird in the understory along the trail at Milpe.
GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (Leptotila rufaxilla) [*]
WHITE-THROATED QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon frenata bourcieri) [*]
Opisthocomidae (Hoatzin)


This responsive Black-bellied Cuckoo called from a tree right below our wooden canopy platform in a big ceiba at Sacha. (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

HOATZIN (Opisthocomus hoazin) – Always one of the highlight species for those new to Amazonia! We had repeated good looks at these herbivores along the edge of Pilchicocha and saw one right along the Napo.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana) – Widespread.
BLACK-BELLIED CUCKOO (Piaya melanogaster) – A real highlight from the wooden canopy platform!
GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major)
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)
Strigidae (Owls)
TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba) – This one dive-bombed us in response to playback at Sacha.
TAWNY-BELLIED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops watsonii) – We had good looks at a pair and heard them regularly at Sacha.
CRESTED OWL (Lophostrix cristata) – Wow! Oscar and Wilson showed us this fabulous owl at a day roost.
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum) [*]


The "San Isidro Owl" is intermediate in plumage between Black-and-white Owl, of the west-slope lowlands and foothills, and Black-banded Owl, of the eastern lowlands. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

MOTTLED OWL (Ciccaba virgata) [*]
"BLACK-BANDED" OWL TYPE (Ciccaba sp. nov. 1) – But the "San Isidro Owl" was probably the owl highlight of our trip. It appeared with perfect timing, just as we had finished dinner and the list. And it stayed for all to see and photograph. Preliminary results of DNA testing on feathers collected indicate that there is at least a 3% difference between the San Isidro owl and Black-and-white Owl (found on the W slope) and at least a 1% difference between the San Isidro bird and Black-banded (found in the lowlands of Amazonia). A 2% difference is usually quite sufficient for most populations of sibling species to be recognized as distinct species. (Remember that humans share about 98.5% of our genes with chimpanzees.) So the San Isidro bird is more closely related to Black-banded, as we expected, but it likely represents an entirely new, montane species, yet to be found elsewhere.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
RUFOUS-BELLIED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis rufiventris) – Angel Paz showed us a pair of this species at a day roost. They were extremely cryptic, but we could see them nicely through the scope.
LYRE-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Uropsalis lyra lyra) – Speaking of cryptic, the short-tailed (molting) male of this species was also on a day roost, and its roosting branch was tucked back into a vertical bank such that we would never have seen it without Angel's pointing it out.
LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis climacocerca) – And Oscar took us to a day roost of this species, right along the edge of the Rio Napo.
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis) – Oscar showed us two different day roosting Great Potoos!
COMMON POTOO (Nyctibius griseus) – It's amazing how many night birds we saw during the day! A Common Potoo on a riverbank day roost was yet another.
Apodidae (Swifts)
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)


A male White-necked Jacobin, one of 54 species of hummingbirds we saw on the tour (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

SHORT-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura brachyura)
GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT (ASH-RUMPED) (Chaetura cinereiventris occidentalis)
LESSER SWALLOW-TAILED SWIFT (Panyptila cayennensis)
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora) – The Ecuadorian Andes are the center of hummingbird diversity, and we had a great introduction to them. All told, we saw 54 species of hummingbirds on the trip! It would be extremely hard to pick favorites among this spiffy group, but the handsome male jacobin is one of many contenders.
RUFOUS-BREASTED HERMIT (Glaucis hirsutus)
PALE-TAILED BARBTHROAT (Threnetes leucurus)
WHITE-WHISKERED HERMIT (Phaethornis yaruqui) – Including one that was rescued by Peggy at the Silanche parking lot.
TAWNY-BELLIED HERMIT (Phaethornis syrmatophorus)
STRAIGHT-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis bourcieri) – We had great scope views of a male of this rather local hermit singing from its display perch along the trail at Sacha.
GREAT-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis malaris) – This species was singing at its lek across the Napo, their tails pumping with each note.
GREEN-FRONTED LANCEBILL (Doryfera ludovicae ludovicae) – Edgar showed us this one, near its favorite waterfall on the east slope.
WEDGE-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD (Schistes geoffroyi) – A female was foraging at flowers near Angel's new hummingbird feeders.
BROWN VIOLETEAR (Colibri delphinae)
GREEN VIOLETEAR (ANDEAN) (Colibri thalassinus cyanotus)
SPARKLING VIOLETEAR (Colibri coruscans coruscans)


At Mindo Loma we had wonderful studies of this male Violet-tailed Sylph, a species widespread at middle elevations on the west slope. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

PURPLE-CROWNED FAIRY (Heliothryx barroti)
GORGETED SUNANGEL (Heliangelus strophianus) – Marshall got us all on this one near the Tandayapa Ridge.
TOURMALINE SUNANGEL (Heliangelus exortis) – Its eastern counterpart was the most common hummer at the Guango feeders, where it really lit up the dark patio.
GREEN THORNTAIL (Discosura conversii) – Tiny but in big numbers at Milpe!
SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD (Adelomyia melanogenys)
LONG-TAILED SYLPH (Aglaiocercus kingi) – Long-tailed males at San Isidro were dynamite!
VIOLET-TAILED SYLPH (Aglaiocercus coelestis coelestis) – Replacing the last species on the west slope, it was common from Pacha Quindi to Septimo.


This Viridian Metaltail was extremely responsive to playback at Papallacta Pass, despite the cold and the rain. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

BLACK-TAILED TRAINBEARER (Lesbia victoriae victoriae) – Nice studies in the Botanic Gardens in Quito, where we could see the decurvature of its relatively longish bill; seen again in the gardens at San Jose.
GREEN-TAILED TRAINBEARER (Lesbia nuna gracilis) – A female at Tony & Barbara's showed its short, pin-like bill.
PURPLE-BACKED THORNBILL (Ramphomicron microrhynchum microrhynchum) – A dazzling male put in a quick appearance along the trail at Yanacocha--for those looking in the right direction at the right moment.
BLUE-MANTLED THORNBILL (Chalcostigma stanleyi stanleyi) – Another quick performer, this time above treeline at Papallacta Pass.
TYRIAN METALTAIL (Metallura tyrianthina)
VIRIDIAN METALTAIL (Metallura williami primolinus) – This one gets the award as the most cooperative hummer (at least of those out there "making an honest living"). It responded to playback by coming right in and singing as it sat in front of us near Papallacta Pass.
SAPPHIRE-VENTED PUFFLEG (SAPPHIRE-VENTED) (Eriocnemis luciani luciani) – A stunner at the Yanacocha feeders.
GOLDEN-BREASTED PUFFLEG (Eriocnemis mosquera) – Likewise.
SHINING SUNBEAM (Aglaeactis cupripennis cupripennis)
BRONZY INCA (Coeligena coeligena obscura) – A regular at the San Isidro feeders.
BROWN INCA (Coeligena wilsoni) – Replacing the last species on the W slope.
COLLARED INCA (Coeligena torquata)
BUFF-WINGED STARFRONTLET (Coeligena lutetiae) – Remember the unique sound this one makes?
MOUNTAIN VELVETBREAST (Lafresnaya lafresnayi saul) – A female at the Centropogon flowers where we waited for the Mountain Avocetbill that never came.
SWORD-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD (Ensifera ensifera) – Wow! A real highlight at the Guango feeders! It is the third heaviest hummer.
GREAT SAPPHIREWING (Pterophanes cyanopterus cyanopterus) – The second heaviest is this species, both sexes seen at Yanacocha.


A female Buff-tailed Coronet was feeding nestlings in a beautiful moss- and lichen-covered nest at Pacha Quindi. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

BUFF-TAILED CORONET (Boissonneaua flavescens flavescens) – The east-slope race, which we saw at Guango and San Isidro.
BUFF-TAILED CORONET (Boissonneaua flavescens tinochlora) – Tony showed us an active nest at Pacha Quindi, where a female was feeding a nestling. The head of the males seem to glow! [N]
CHESTNUT-BREASTED CORONET (Boissonneaua matthewsii) – This one was Kathy's favorite hummer.
VELVET-PURPLE CORONET (Boissonneaua jardini) – We had good views of this dazzler at Angel's and at Mindo Loma.
BOOTED RACKET-TAIL (Ocreatus underwoodii) – We saw white-booted birds on the west slope, especially well at Tony & Barbara's.
PURPLE-BIBBED WHITETIP (Urosticte benjamini) – One of my favorites, it was common at Pacha Quindi and seen at Septimo and Milpe as well.
FAWN-BREASTED BRILLIANT (Heliodoxa rubinoides)
GREEN-CROWNED BRILLIANT (Heliodoxa jacula)
EMPRESS BRILLIANT (Heliodoxa imperatrix) – Another real dazzler, this one used to be really hard to come by, i.e., before they started using feeders in the West. We had nice males at Refugio Paz and at Mindo Loma.
WHITE-BELLIED WOODSTAR (Chaetocercus mulsant) – Bumblebee like in flight, this one was seen well at Guango.
GORGETED WOODSTAR (Chaetocercus heliodor) – A female of this tiny hummer was seen at the San Isidro feeders.
PURPLE-THROATED WOODSTAR (Calliphlox mitchellii) – The common woodstar this time of year at Tony & Barbara's.
WESTERN EMERALD (Chlorostilbon melanorhynchus) – One male was seen infrequently at Pacha Quindi.
CROWNED WOODNYMPH (NORTHERN GREEN-CROWNED) (Thalurania colombica verticeps) – Among the most reflective all over its body! It was common at Septimo and Milpe, where Marshall took the cover photo.
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata) – A male in "our tree" at the wooden tower at Sacha was the only one seen.
OLIVE-SPOTTED HUMMINGBIRD (Leucippus chlorocercus) – The small island specialist that was singing a lot on our small island near Sacha.


Velvet-purple Coronet, photographed at Mindo Loma by participant Peggy Keller

ANDEAN EMERALD (Amazilia franciae viridiceps)
PURPLE-CHESTED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia rosenbergi) – We had nice looks at this northwestern specialty at its favorite flowers at Rio Silanche.
RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia tzacatl)
BLUE-HEADED SAPPHIRE (Hylocharis grayi) – A dry valley specialist of limited distribution; we saw a male in the San Jose hotel gardens.
Trogonidae (Trogons)
GOLDEN-HEADED QUETZAL (Pharomachrus auriceps auriceps) – We had a very cooperative male along the lower section of the old Nono-Mindo road and another that appeared at the cock-of-the-rock lek.
CRESTED QUETZAL (Pharomachrus antisianus) – Edgar spotted this one as we were driving along the Tandayapa Ridge. A little playback and we all saw it, with its pure white underside of the tail.
BLACK-TAILED TROGON (Trogon melanurus) – Sacha.
WHITE-TAILED TROGON (Trogon chionurus) – This was the yellow-bellied one with the blue-gray eyering that Julie spotted high in the canopy along the Rio Silanche trail.
GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis) – The Amazonian counterpart of the last species, this was the one we worked so hard to see at Sacha and then saw easily where a pair was nesting en route to the interior clay lick. [N]
AMAZONIAN TROGON (Trogon ramonianus) – We first saw the female of this yellow-bellied species, and then the distinctive male with the bright yellow eyering, along the entrance trail at Sacha, on our return from Providencia.
COLLARED TROGON (COLLARED) (Trogon collaris virginalis) – Seen several times at Sacha.
MASKED TROGON (Trogon personatus) – Sierra Azul.
Momotidae (Motmots)
AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota) [*]
ANDEAN MOTMOT (Momotus aequatorialis aequatorialis) – I think John may have been the only one in position to see this motmot when it appeared briefly at the White-bellied Antpitta feeding area. It was formerly called Highland Motmot.
RUFOUS MOTMOT (Baryphthengus martii) – But we all saw this beauty well above the Rio Silanche.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)


These Crowned (Northern Green-crowned) Woodnymphs were absolutely dazzling at the Milpe feeders. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)
GREEN-AND-RUFOUS KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle inda) – The toughest New World kingfisher, this species perched for us along the Orquidea Canoe Trail.
AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle aenea) – More common than the last along the Sacha canoe trails.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
WHITE-NECKED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus hyperrhynchus) [*]
PIED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus tectus) – These were real performers! Three birds were interacting at close range near the Sacha metal tower.
COLLARED PUFFBIRD (Bucco capensis) – Surely foremost among the puffbirds was this orange-billed canopy beauty! It took some effort, but we finally managed to scope it for great views.
WHITE-WHISKERED PUFFBIRD (Malacoptila panamensis) – Another lovely puffbird, this one of the understory; it too took some effort, but Jose finally located the source of the high-pitched sound at Rio Silanche.
BLACK-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa nigrifrons) – The common varzea nunbird of Amazonia.
WHITE-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa morphoeus) [*]


This Toucan Barbet was carrying large beakfuls of bananas away from the feeders, presumably to feed its young. (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
WHITE-EARED JACAMAR (Galbalcyrhynchus leucotis) – This beauty was seen well along the Sacha riverbank on our way back from Providencia.
WHITE-CHINNED JACAMAR (Galbula tombacea) – Along the Sacha boardwalk.
Capitonidae (New World Barbets)
SCARLET-CROWNED BARBET (Capito aurovirens) – Ultimately, a nice pair in the river-edge canopy!
GILDED BARBET (Capito auratus) – First seen on the Wildsumaco side road, and then at close range from the canopy towers at Sacha.
LEMON-THROATED BARBET (Eubucco richardsoni) – Another handsome barbet, this one is scarcer than the last, but we had nice views on our morning to Providencia.
RED-HEADED BARBET (Eubucco bourcierii) – Another striking barbet! We saw it well on both slopes.
Semnornithidae (Toucan-Barbets)
TOUCAN BARBET (Semnornis ramphastinus ramphastinus) – After having heard it at Pacha Quindi and Septimo, we finally watched it stuffing its bill with banana at Refugio Paz. It now represents a family distinct from the other barbets: the Toucan-Barbets, comprised solely of this species and the Prong-billed Barbet of Costa Rica and w Panama.
Ramphastidae (Toucans)


This Crimson-rumped Toucanet was drinking from a bromeliad at Refugio Paz de las Aves. (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

EMERALD TOUCANET (ANDEAN) (Aulacorhynchus prasinus albivitta) – San Isidro.
CRIMSON-RUMPED TOUCANET (Aulacorhynchus haematopygus sexnotatus) – This species was seen first at Milpe, and then we watched it eating bananas and drinking from a bromeliad at Refugio Paz.
PLATE-BILLED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN (Andigena laminirostris) – We lucked into this fabulous mountain-toucan along the old Nono-Mindo road. Through the scope we could see how the "plate" sticks out from the rest of the bill--the feature for which this Choco specialty is named. In the recording, you can hear a bit of bill-clapping along with its far-carrying nasal call.
BLACK-BILLED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN (Andigena nigrirostris spilorhynchus) – Speaking of luck, I was just mentioning that I had never before seen this species at what is generally considered a good area for it in the Sierra Azul, when a bird flew across the road and landed where we could watch it bill-clapping through the scope! It's a scarce specialty of the forested east slope at mid elevations.


The Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan is named for the yellow "plates" on the sides of its bill; they project slightly out from the bill. Listen to the audio cut below to hear its distinctive raspy call. (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

LETTERED ARACARI (Pteroglossus inscriptus) – One was seen well from the wooden canopy tower, its "letters" scribbled along its bill.
COLLARED ARACARI (STRIPE-BILLED) (Pteroglossus torquatus erythropygius) – Rio Silanche and Milpe.
CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis) – Sacha.
MANY-BANDED ARACARI (Pteroglossus pluricinctus) – The commonest of the Amazonian aracaris at Sacha. We had some great views from the canopy.
IVORY-BILLED ARACARI (Pteroglossus azara) – Perhaps the most striking of them all, this species was enjoyed from both canopy towers.
GOLDEN-COLLARED TOUCANET (Selenidera reinwardtii) – A superb male of this species responded to playback by flying in and landing below us and then doing its head- and tail-pumping display while it croaked out its "song." The cover photo is by MDahl.
WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus cuvieri) – The long-billed yelpers of Amazonia, these were the only big toucans we saw or heard at this time of year at Sacha.
CHOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos brevis) – But on the west slope, we experienced the opposite: We saw and heard only these "croakers" and no Black-mandibled (Chestnut-mandibled) yelpers.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
OLIVACEOUS PICULET (Picumnus olivaceus harterti) – This tiny woodpecker, which doesn't use its tail as a prop, was seen nicely at a forest patch along the road back from the Rio Silanche Reserve.
YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus) [*]
BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes pucherani) – Near the Rio Silanche bridge.
GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus) – Seen well at Septimo and Milpe.
CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER (Colaptes rivolii brevirostris) – Finally seen well by all from the rooftop at San Isidro.
SPOT-BREASTED WOODPECKER (Colaptes punctigula) – Seen briefly on our young island.
CHESTNUT WOODPECKER (Celeus elegans) – Good views along Orquidea.
CREAM-COLORED WOODPECKER (Celeus flavus) – A stunning woodpecker, this too was seen along Orquidea and then along Anaconda too.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus lineatus) – Heard several times, but seen only near the Providencia dock.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus fuscipennis) – Silanche. [*]
POWERFUL WOODPECKER (Campephilus pollens pollens) – Heard at a distance along the Nono-Mindo road. Sorry we couldn't entice it in. [*]
CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos) – Sacha.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)


A handsome Choco Toucan, flying over our lodging at Septimo Paraiso (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur semitorquatus semitorquatus) – Calling in the evening at San Isidro. [*]
BLACK CARACARA (Daptrius ater)
CARUNCULATED CARACARA (Phalcoboenus carunculatus) – Two adults and three young ones were in a cultivated field en route to Papallacta Pass.
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans) – Scooped nicely from the wooden tower, thanks to Wilson.
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis) – Two birds chased past the metal walkway, one of them landing in sight for good scope views.
Psittacidae (Parrots)
MAROON-TAILED PARAKEET (MAROON-TAILED) (Pyrrhura melanura melanura) – Rushing past under the metal walkway. [*]
WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Aratinga leucophthalma) – Several flocks overhead in flight.


Hordes of Dusky-headed Parakeets were landing on the riverbank clay lick, where they come every day or so to ingest a beakful or two of the mineral-rich clay that is thought to contain chemicals that neutralize certain poisons in their fruity diet. (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

DUSKY-HEADED PARAKEET (Aratinga weddellii) – It was an aesthetic highlight to watch hordes of these parakeets landing on the riverside clay lick along the Napo. The clay contains minerals that seem to neutralize the toxicity of certain elements in the parakeets' diet. Their numbers vary with what they are eating at the time.
SCARLET MACAW (Ara macao) – We scoped a nice pair of Scarlet Macaws that were sitting above the interior clay lick.
RED-BELLIED MACAW (Orthopsittaca manilata) – We saw a flock over the Moriche Palms at Sacha.


Heading across Pilchicocha toward Sacha Lodge, Oscar in the bow (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

BARRED PARAKEET (Bolborhynchus lineola tigrinus) – We heard a number of birds flying high overhead at Pacha Quindi and along the old Nono-Mindo road, but we saw them only as dashing silhouettes--which is the usual way they are seen.
BLUE-WINGED PARROTLET (Forpus xanthopterygius)
COBALT-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris cyanoptera)
SCARLET-SHOULDERED PARROTLET (Touit huetii) – One bird flew past the canopy tower, very quickly.
BLACK-HEADED PARROT (Pionites melanocephalus) – But we had wonderful studies of these beauties from the metal tower.
ORANGE-CHEEKED PARROT (Pyrilia barrabandi) – Usually seen at the interior clay lick, these were being kept away by the presence of a Bicolored Hawk. Fortunately, we caught up with some perched birds in great light from the wooden canopy tower.
RED-BILLED PARROT (Pionus sordidus corallinus)
BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus)
BRONZE-WINGED PARROT (Pionus chalcopterus) – We had repeated good looks at this deep-flapping Pionus in the West.
YELLOW-CROWNED PARROT (Amazona ochrocephala) – There are a few birds at and near the riverside clay lick, but they seemed to already be leaving by the time we arrived.
MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa) – Same with the Mealies.
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
BLACK-CROWNED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus atrinucha) – Previously known as Western Slaty-Antshrike. [*]
COCHA ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus praecox) – A real highlight on our final day of birding at Sacha! This Ecuadorian endemic was known only from the type specimen until 1991, when it was rediscovered in e Ecuador along the Rio Lagarto. It was later found at La Selva, but only recently seen well at Sacha. It's usually difficult to see, favoring thickets along blackwater streams in varzea--just like where we saw a pair along the Anaconda Canoe Trail. The good-looking female was especially visible. This was the first time I've seen it at Sacha. [E]


This Chestnut-crowned Antpitta at San Isidro was getting a free meal for showing up! (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

CASTELNAU'S ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus cryptoleucus) – This big antshrike is a very shy young island specialist. It took some work, but we finally all got good views of a responsive pair on our Napo river island.
DUSKY-THROATED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes ardesiacus) – Sacha--where it leads some mixed flocks in the understory.
CINEREOUS ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes caesius) – A vocalizing male was seen along the trail in Yasuni NP near the interior lick.
PLAIN-THROATED ANTWREN (Isleria hauxwelli) – Ultimately, this one was seen nicely in the understory along the Sacha trail to the metal tower.
SPOT-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Pygiptila stellaris) [*]
WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris) – Male and female were seen at Sacha.
SLATY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula schisticolor schisticolor)
DUGAND'S ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus dugandi) [*]
STREAK-HEADED ANTBIRD (Drymophila striaticeps occidentalis) – As split from Long-tailed Antbird, which was split into four species. John at least had a good view of this one in the bamboo at San Isidro.
PERUVIAN WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis peruviana) – We called one of these in for good looks along the Sacha boardwalk on our way to the river.


Yellow-breasted Antpitta was the first of four species of antpittas we saw in one morning at Refugio Paz de las Aves. (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

GRAY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra cinerascens) [*]
WHITE-BACKED FIRE-EYE (Pyriglena leuconota) – Mostly heard as it sang loudly from the tangles below us along the road through Sumaco NP, but some folks did get on it.
BLACK-AND-WHITE ANTBIRD (Myrmochanes hemileucus) – We had nice views of a pair of these spiffy young-island specialists on our Napo island morn.
SILVERED ANTBIRD (Sclateria naevia) – Our best views were along Orquidea.
CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza exsul maculifer) [*]
WHITE-SHOULDERED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza melanoceps) – A singing male came into view along Orquidea.
PLUMBEOUS ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza hyperythra) – A male of this varzea species responded well along the Sacha entrance boardwalk.
ZELEDON'S ANTBIRD (CHOCO) (Myrmeciza zeledoni macrorhyncha) – As split from Immaculate into two species, Zeledon's being the new name for the northern subspecies (vs Blue-lored for the southern ones). [*]
SPOT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Hylophylax naevius) – A lovely pair of these little antbirds sang and showed well in the understory along the Sacha boardwalk; one of the prettiest of the antbirds.
DOT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Hylophylax punctulatus) – Closely related to the last species, this one usually occurs along streams or at the edges of blackwater cochas. We called one in along the Orquidea Canoe Trail.
COMMON SCALE-BACKED ANTBIRD (Willisornis poecilinotus) – Another beauty of the understory! We had a male in the scope on our way to the metal canopy walkway.
BLACK-SPOTTED BARE-EYE (Phlegopsis nigromaculata) – Though we missed a number of antbirds, we scored on some of the best ones! Including this one, which was seen well from the boat en route to Providencia. It's usually seen with army antswarms.
Grallariidae (Antpittas)


Named "Shakira" for the dance it does with its rear end, this Ochre-breasted Antpitta put on a show for us. (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

GIANT ANTPITTA (Grallaria gigantea hylodroma) – Perhaps the most spectacular of the antpittas, this giant was very rarely seen before the Paz brothers started feeding them earthworms. With their help, we saw two different individuals (one of them lovingly named Maria the 3rd!) in one short morning! Fabulous!!
MOUSTACHED ANTPITTA (Grallaria alleni andaquiensis) – Another poorly known antpitta, this one was first collected in Ecuador in 1992 and again in 1994. Only since the Paz brothers discovered it on their property and learned to feed it earthworms has it been seen on a fairly regular basis by birders. We "sneaked" down the trail to where Angel fed a trained bird, which he called Susana. It showed immediately and one by one we got eye-to-eye views of a rarely seen Ecuadorian specialty. Thanks to Marshall for the cover photo.
CHESTNUT-CROWNED ANTPITTA (Grallaria ruficapilla ruficapilla) – I'll never forget the email I got from Mitch when he first discovered Angel's having trained rare antpittas to come for earthworms. Of course, Mitch then instigated a program at San Isidro to train the local antpittas there as well. The Chestnut-crowned we saw with Guido's help is probably the 4th or 5th individual the staff at San Isidro have habituated over the years. It occurs on both slopes and is one of the most colorful of the antpittas. We were lucky to see it so well. The cover photo was taken by MDahl.
YELLOW-BREASTED ANTPITTA (Grallaria flavotincta) – "Esmeralda" (or was it "Wilhelmina"?) was the first antpitta Angel called in for us. Amazingly, he has trained it to come out of the forest across a rushing stream from where we sat in the open to view it. Great views of another toughie.
WHITE-BELLIED ANTPITTA (Grallaria hypoleuca) – This species replaces the last on the east slope. It took some persistence (and two mornings), but we ultimately saw it well at its traditional San Isidro feeding area.


"Pepito," Angel's habituated Rufous-breasted Antthrush, also came for earthworms. (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

TAWNY ANTPITTA (Grallaria quitensis quitensis) – A.k.a. "the easy antpitta," this one we found on our own...repeatedly, despite our bad weather at Papallacta Pass. As its scientific name implies, it is quite common at paramo elevations in the general Quito area (but not down as low at where we thought we were hearing them when my mini got turned on by accident!).
WHITE-LORED ANTPITTA (Hylopezus fulviventris) – Our final antpitta was in the lowlands of Yasuni, across the Napo from Sacha. Thanks to Oscar and crew, we managed to get inside a thicket and call one in for good views by all. It was our 9th antpitta actually SEEN on the tour!
OCHRE-BREASTED ANTPITTA (Grallaricula flavirostris) – Named "Shakira" for the way it "dances," this species too was trained by the Paz brothers, and two of them showed up on call along their new trail and proceeded to perform. The birds we saw were of the subspecies mindoensis, with bold breast streakings and a bicolored bill.
SLATE-CROWNED ANTPITTA (SLATE-CROWNED) (Grallaricula nana nana) – Our efforts to see this little Grallaricula were a definite reminder of how tough antpittas out there "making an honest living" can be to see well! After having heard several singing near San Isidro, we finally called a bird into the bamboo near Sierra Azul--where we spent considerable time trying to lure it into a visible hole. At least some folks were successful.
Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos)
RUSTY-BELTED TAPACULO (Liosceles thoracicus) – We had terrific scope views of this aberrant, monotypic tapaculo that walks on the ground through the Amazonian lowlands. Oscar spotted the singing bird along the trail at Providencia. Yip! Yip!
OCELLATED TAPACULO (Acropternis orthonyx infuscatus) – And this big monotypic tapaculo is surely the fanciest of them all! With patience and persistence, we all managed to get good looks at a responsive bird along the old Nono-Mindo road. Yip! Yip! Their calls are loud and far-carrying and given by both sexes; see embedded audio.
ASH-COLORED TAPACULO (Myornis senilis) – This was the one with the slightly longer tail in the bamboo along the road near San Isidro.
BLACKISH TAPACULO (BLACKISH) (Scytalopus latrans latrans) – Our first tapaculo was this species, in the thickets along the Yanacocha trail.
LONG-TAILED TAPACULO (Scytalopus micropterus) – This one was heard a lot at San Isidro, but we did manage to glimpse it up the road from San Isidro. Fortunately, its song is quite distinctive (because most Scytalopus tapaculos look pretty much alike!).
SPILLMANN'S TAPACULO (Scytalopus spillmanni) [*]
Formicariidae (Antthrushes)
RUFOUS-BREASTED ANTTHRUSH (Formicarius rufipectus carrikeri) – After having worked on a singing bird along a side trail at Septimo--and finally given up--we had what was probably the best look I've ever had at "Pepito"; Rodrigo and Angel made it look easy!
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
BLACK-TAILED LEAFTOSSER (Sclerurus caudacutus) [*]
TYRANNINE WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla tyrannina tyrannina) [*]


Our view upon arrival at Sacha Lodge, on the edge of Pilchicocha, a blackwater oxbow lake surrounded by palms (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
LONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Nasica longirostris) – One of the coolest of the woodcreepers! We had nice views along Orquidea, but we were looking way up. Our best views were eye to eye from the wooden canopy platform.
STRONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER (ANDEAN/NORTHERN) (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus promeropirhynchus) – The largest of the woodcreepers, this species was seen surprisingly well along the Tandayapa Ridge trail, where we watched a pair foraging at close range without playback.
STRIPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus obsoletus) – A varzea woodcreeper, we saw it along Orquidea at Sacha.
ELEGANT WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus elegans) – It was this species, as split from Spix's, that we saw along the entrance trail at Sacha on our way back from Providencia. Our checklist mistakenly lists "Spix's," but Elegant has been split for some time, with Spix's occurring only in se. Amazonian Brazil.
BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (LAFRESNAYE'S) (Xiphorhynchus guttatus guttatoides) [*]
BLACK-STRIPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus) – Another of the spiffiest woodcreepers, this one was seen quite well from the Silanche canopy tower.
OLIVE-BACKED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus triangularis triangularis) – Seen briefly at San Isidro.
STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus) – I think I was the only one who saw this species at Sacha, where it occurs at the edge of Pilchicocha. [*]


One of several Montane Woodcreepers that gathered each morning along the path to the San Isidro dining area to feed on moths concentrated there by the lights overnight. (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

GREATER SCYTHEBILL (Drymotoxeres pucheranii) – This was our premier woodcreeper! This species is inexplicably rare and very local throughout its range. I've encountered it only twice before, both times along the Guacamayos Ridge trail, where we saw it on this trip, foraging in the company of other "big birds." It was using its decurved bill to probe into bark and bromeliads. A real highlight for this Grebe.
MONTANE WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger aequatorialis) – We had repeated good looks at this species, probably best under the lights at San Isidro.
LINEATED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes albolineatus) – This canopy specialist was in the canopy of "our tree" at the Sacha wooden platform.
PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus)
CHESTNUT-WINGED CINCLODES (Cinclodes albidiventris albidiventris)
STOUT-BILLED CINCLODES (Cinclodes excelsior excelsior) – This paramo specialist of Ecuador and Colombia came in close, offering great views, along the road to the Papallacta antennas.
BUFF-FRONTED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor rufum) – Septimo & Milpe.
SCALY-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (SPOT-BREASTED) (Anabacerthia variegaticeps temporalis) – Septimo & Milpe.
LINEATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla subalaris) – Finca Paz. [*]
OLIVE-BACKED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus infuscatus) [*]
STRIPED TREEHUNTER (Thripadectes holostictus) – This was the bird we heard along the Guacamayos Ridge trail. When I was doing the list, I must have called it "Striped Woodhaunter" because that's what was marked on my list. Not that it matters much, as it was heard only anyway. [*]
SPOTTED BARBTAIL (Premnoplex brunnescens brunnescens) [*]


Early morning vista from the balcony of the newly remodeled dining room at Cabanas San Isidro (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

PEARLED TREERUNNER (Margarornis squamiger perlatus) – Seen nicely with a flock near the dining area of San Isidro.
ANDEAN TIT-SPINETAIL (Leptasthenura andicola andicola) – Marshall and John got on this one in the Polylepis near Papallacta Pass.
MANY-STRIPED CANASTERO (Asthenes flammulata flammulata) – Julie alone had a good view of this one in a one-person hole in the Polylepis near Papallacta Pass. It came in to playback initially and then quit moving.
WHITE-CHINNED THISTLETAIL (Asthenes fuliginosa fuliginosa) – But we all saw this just across the road from the last species.
PARKER'S SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca vulpecula) – Sorry we didn't have more time on the young island. It was hard to walk away from a singing Parker's Spinetail, but Oscar was trying to keep us on schedule. [*]
RED-FACED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca erythrops erythrops) – Right from the parking lot at Septimo.
AZARA'S SPINETAIL (Synallaxis azarae media) – Finally seen well near San Isidro.
WHITE-BELLIED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis propinqua) – Another young-island specialist, this skulker was seen well by all.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
BROWN-CAPPED TYRANNULET (Ornithion brunneicapillus) [*]
WHITE-LORED TYRANNULET (Ornithion inerme) – Seen well from the metal canopy platform; it even landed on the ropes!
SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum)
WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET (Mecocerculus poecilocercus)
WHITE-BANDED TYRANNULET (Mecocerculus stictopterus stictopterus)


We encountered fog, rain, and snow on the ground in the paramo above Papallacta Pass. (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

WHITE-THROATED TYRANNULET (Mecocerculus leucophrys rufomarginatis)
TUFTED TIT-TYRANT (Anairetes parulus aequatorialis) – Julie kept finding these cuties, starting at Yanacocha.
YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus) [*]
WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA (WHITE-CRESTED) (Elaenia albiceps griseigularis)
SIERRAN ELAENIA (Elaenia pallatangae)
OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus)
SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon superciliaris)
RUFOUS-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon rufipectus)
SOOTY-HEADED TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias griseiceps)
CHOCO TYRANNULET (Zimmerius albigularis) – As split from Golden-faced Tyrannulet; this one was sitting extremely close to us at the Silanche canopy tower.
SLENDER-FOOTED TYRANNULET (Zimmerius gracilipes) – And this canopy flycatcher was almost as close to the metal canopy tower at Sacha.
GOLDEN-FACED TYRANNULET (Zimmerius chrysops) – Heard at Sumaco. [*]
ORNATE FLYCATCHER (Myiotriccus ornatus) – A favorite!
RUFOUS-HEADED PYGMY-TYRANT (Pseudotriccus ruficeps) – Seen on both slopes.
SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus pileatus)


This Choco Tyrannulet, as split from Golden-faced Tyrannulet, was our constant companion at the Rio Silanche tower. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

RUFOUS-CROWNED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus ruficeps) – Another real cutie! Seen well at San Isidro.
SPOTTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum maculatum) – On the young island.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum sclateri) [*]
BLACK-HEADED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum nigriceps) – At the Silanche parking lot during lunch.
YELLOW-BROWED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum) – Our favorite tody-flycatcher, it was right in "our tree" at the Sacha wooden tower.
BROWNISH TWISTWING (Cnipodectes subbrunneus) – Previously known as Brownish Flycatcher. [*]
GRAY-CROWNED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias poliocephalus)
CINNAMON FLYCATCHER (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus pyrrhopterus)
CLIFF FLYCATCHER (Hirundinea ferruginea) – We managed to find one on its cliff despite the rain.
SMOKE-COLORED PEWEE (Contopus fumigatus)
BLACK PHOEBE (WHITE-WINGED) (Sayornis nigricans angustirostris)
DRAB WATER TYRANT (Ochthornis littoralis)
SMOKY BUSH-TYRANT (Myiotheretes fumigatus) [*]
CROWNED CHAT-TYRANT (CROWNED) (Ochthoeca frontalis frontalis) – We had a good look at this little flycatcher at Yanacocha.
SLATY-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT (SLATY-BACKED) (Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris cinnamomeiventris) – A nice pair near the waterfall along the highway through Sumaco National Park.
RUFOUS-BREASTED CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca rufipectoralis obfuscata)
BROWN-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca fumicolor brunneifrons) – In the paramo at Papallacta Pass.
CINNAMON ATTILA (Attila cinnamomeus)


This pair of Crested Owls was awakening at their day roost in the late afternoon at Sacha. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

CITRON-BELLIED ATTILA (Attila citriniventris) – A scarce species at Sacha, it was calling spontaneously along the entrance boardwalk.
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer) [*]
SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox) – On the young island.
PALE-EDGED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus cephalotes cephalotes) – I've never seen so many at San Isidro!
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor)
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis hellmayri) [*]
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis)
GRAY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes granadensis)
DUSKY-CHESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes luteiventris) – These rather local flycatchers were seen well in the fruiting tree right next to the metal tower at Sacha.
GOLDEN-CROWNED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus minor) – They were nest-building below the eaves at San Isidro. [N]
STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus)
PIRATIC FLYCATCHER (Legatus leucophaius)
CROWNED SLATY FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus)
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus melancholicus)
EASTERN KINGBIRD (Tyrannus tyrannus) – Perhaps the only boreal migrant land bird we saw was one of these on the river edge at Sacha. There will be others in another month or so. [b]
Cotingidae (Cotingas)


A male Andean Cock-of-the-rock at a lek at Refugio Paz (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

GREEN-AND-BLACK FRUITEATER (Pipreola riefferii) – A male was seen nicely along the Guacamayos Ridge trail.
BARRED FRUITEATER (Pipreola arcuata arcuata) – Jose got us onto this one along the Yanacocha trail.
RED-CRESTED COTINGA (Ampelion rubrocristatus) – Yanacocha.
ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK (Rupicola peruvianus sanguinolentus) – An aesthetic highlight of the trip was watching (and hearing!) males of this lekking species displaying from dawn for an hour or so at Refugio Paz de las Aves. When we first arrived, there must have been a female there, as males were going crazy. We saw one female later, but she seemed oblivious to the lek. The birds on the west slope are truly red, hence the subspecific name.
PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROW (Querula purpurata) – Another very fancy cotinga! We fished for it at the Rio Silanche and had a male and two females respond. But our best views were of the male splaying its throat and quivering its wings at the Sacha wooden tower tree (see cover photo by MDahl). Its generic name is for its querulous calls.
AMAZONIAN UMBRELLABIRD (Cephalopterus ornatus) – Oscar spotted a very distant male along the Napo, but we couldn't get close and it was really too distant for satisfaction.
PLUM-THROATED COTINGA (Cotinga maynana) – The male with the pure blue plumage and the yellow iris; seen nicely at Providencia.
SPANGLED COTINGA (Cotinga cayana) – These males, coming right into "our tree" for fruit, were blue with lots of black in their plumage and a dark eye. Our first ones were seen from the metal tower.
DUSKY PIHA (Lipaugus fuscocinereus) [*]
SCREAMING PIHA (Lipaugus vociferans) – We lucked into a foraging bird along the trail at Providencia.
Pipridae (Manakins)


Male Club-winged Manakin on its display perch at Milpe Reserve (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

DWARF TYRANT-MANAKIN (Tyranneutes stolzmanni) – We tracked down a calling bird near the wooden canopy tower.
GOLDEN-WINGED MANAKIN (Masius chrysopterus) [*]
BLUE-BACKED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia pareola) [*]
CLUB-WINGED MANAKIN (Machaeropterus deliciosus) – One of the foremost behavioral highlights of the entire trip was watching a male of this species through the scope at the Milpe lek, where a number of birds were displaying. The musical tone when he lifts his wings is produced by stridulation, using a sort of "spoon-and-washboard" process unique among vertebrates and more akin to how a grasshopper or cricket produces its sound. A very readable explanation of the process and its discovery can be found in a NY Times article at: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/08/02/science/02wing.html?pagewanted=all&module=Search&mabReward=relbias%3Ar
RED-CAPPED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra mentalis) – It was a nice surprise when Marshall announced from the Silanche tower that he was looking at a Red-capped Manakin! Though it's locally common in the lowlands of the West, it's not one we usually see at Rio Silanche. And it sat for long scope views! Another beauty.
WHITE-BEARDED MANAKIN (Manacus manacus) – Males of this behaviorally interesting species were displaying at Rio Silanche and along the entrance boardwalk to Sacha, where we saw them with luck.
ORANGE-CROWNED MANAKIN (Heterocercus aurantiivertex) – We had dynamite views of this scarce and local varzea specialist sitting right above the Anaconda Waterway on our final afternoon at Sacha.
WIRE-TAILED MANAKIN (Pipra filicauda) – Wow! And these males were absolutely stunning! We could see their thin wire tails through the scope along the Liana Chica trail at Sacha.
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)


A flowering and fruiting tree below the tallest platform in the metal walkway was attracting a host of birds, including this Black-tailed Tityra. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

BLACK-TAILED TITYRA (Tityra cayana) – Feeding right below us at the metal tower.
MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata) – From the Silanche canopy tower.
WHITE-BROWED PURPLETUFT (Iodopleura isabellae) – Seen well from both towers at Sacha.
CINNAMON BECARD (Pachyramphus cinnamomeus cinnamomeus) – Seen well our first morning at Septimo.
WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus) – Angel called in a nice male near the cock lek.
BLACK-CAPPED BECARD (Pachyramphus marginatus) [*]
PINK-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus minor) – A young male and a female were seen well from the metal tower at Sacha.
Vireonidae (Vireos)
BROWN-CAPPED VIREO (Vireo leucophrys)
RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceus)
DUSKY-CAPPED GREENLET (Hylophilus hypoxanthus)
OLIVACEOUS GREENLET (Hylophilus olivaceus) [*]
LESSER GREENLET (GRAY-HEADED) (Hylophilus decurtatus minor) – Our constant companion at the Rio Silanche tower.
BLACK-BILLED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis nigrirostris) – We had repeated good looks at this one, especially around the lights at San Isidro.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
TURQUOISE JAY (Cyanolyca turcosa) – I was really surprised to see one of these hopping around on the ground amid the hummingbird feeders at Guango! The rest were more typically flocking in the forest.


Birding from the wooden tower in the big ceiba at Sacha (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

GREEN JAY (INCA) (Cyanocorax yncas yncas) – Great birds! With distinct differences in habitat and social behavior, as well as plumage and vocalizations, this S. American group is considered by Ridgely & Greenfield a distinct species (Inca Jay) from the birds of n. Middle America that reach south Texas.
VIOLACEOUS JAY (Cyanocorax violaceus)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca) [N]
BROWN-BELLIED SWALLOW (Orochelidon murina murina)
WHITE-BANDED SWALLOW (Atticora fasciata)
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea) [N]
BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera)
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
SCALY-BREASTED WREN (Microcerculus marginatus) – Seen by some, especially along the trail at Providencia.
HOUSE WREN (SOUTHERN) (Troglodytes aedon albicans) – Nesting in the roof thatch of the bar-b-que dining area at Sacha. [N]
MOUNTAIN WREN (Troglodytes solstitialis solstitialis) – Seen well several times as it foraged in the trees, often along mossy trunks.
THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus) – A tropical, arboreal member of the same genus as our Cactus Wren; we watched them duetting (loudly!) from the metal walkway at Sacha.


Black-mantle Tamarins were a daily occurrence behind Julie's and Peggy's cabins at Sacha. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

PLAIN-TAILED WREN (Pheugopedius euophrys) – These skulkers were singing loudly too, but they stayed back in the bamboo and were at best glimpsed in movement. [*]
CORAYA WREN (Pheugopedius coraya) – We did a bit better with a responsive pair of these songsters, along the Sacha boardwalk, where they circled us.
BAY WREN (SOUTH AMERICAN) (Cantorchilus nigricapillus nigricapillus) [*]
BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis) – We had good looks at this species, which was singing spontaneously along the Anaconda Canoe Trail on our final afternoon at Sacha.
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys leucophrys) – Seen by some at San Isidro and along the Guacamayos Ridge trail.
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
SLATE-THROATED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila schistaceigula) – This Choco specialty was singing spontaneously (and very responsive) most of the morning we spent in the Silanche canopy tower. We often miss it here on Jan-Mar visits.
Cinclidae (Dippers)
WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER (Cinclus leucocephalus leuconotus) – A pair was seen beautifully along the rushing river below the Comedor Susanita on the Loreto road, where we watched a pair forage among the boulders. They don't walk under water like ours do.
Donacobiidae (Donacobius)


Early morning light on Pilchicocha (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla) – Formerly considered to be allied with the thrushes, then the thrashers, and more recently the wrens, the monotypic Donacobius was shown to be closely related to none of these based on recent sequencing of both nuclear and mitochondrial DNA. It turns out to be nested within the Old World babblers (though not closely related to any subgroup), reflecting a history that goes way back. Hence it was elevated to its own monotypic family. We saw it along the marshy edges of Pilchicocha.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
ANDEAN SOLITAIRE (Myadestes ralloides) – We heard it on both slopes, but we finally saw one along the road through Sumaco NP. Its song is ethereal.
SLATY-BACKED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (SLATY-BACKED) (Catharus fuscater fuscater) – A nice surprise at San Isidro was seeing a juvenile of this species--a lifer plumage for me--filching earthworms put out for the Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. It was slate gray above but spotted below on a rather buffy background and still had a dark iris. The species is more often heard than seen.
SPOTTED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus dryas) – Heard near Milpe. [*]
PALE-EYED THRUSH (Turdus leucops) [*]
HAUXWELL'S THRUSH (Turdus hauxwelli) – This warm-chocolate thrush was foraging in "our tree" at the wooden canopy platform.
PALE-VENTED THRUSH (Turdus obsoletus) – We heard its pretty song along the trail at Milpe, and on our return, two birds were foraging in a fruiting canopy tree.
ECUADORIAN THRUSH (Turdus maculirostris) – Septimo grounds.
LAWRENCE'S THRUSH (Turdus lawrencii) – The one that mimics most everything in the forest; we couldn't get one to show. [*]
BLACK-BILLED THRUSH (Turdus ignobilis) – Seen well near the village of Sumaco.


Its all-black undertail showing, this Golden-headed Quetzal flew in overhead along the lower Nono-Mindo road. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

CHESTNUT-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus fulviventris) – We had good views of two different birds within Sumaco NP--the first that responded to playback at the Cocodrilo ranger station; and a second that showed up spontaneously at the road edge. We may have overlooked this species when we did our list, as it was not marked on my checklist.
GREAT THRUSH (Turdus fuscater quindio) – This, the largest of the New World thrushes (and at its largest in Ecuador and Colombia), was common and widespread at high elevations.
GLOSSY-BLACK THRUSH (Turdus serranus fuscobrunneus) – Seen well on both slopes.
WHITE-NECKED THRUSH (Turdus albicollis) [*]
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
OLIVE-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis semiflava semiflava) – One of the few species that seems to be benefiting from widespread clearing in western Ecuador; we called in a very responsive male near the top of the Septimo entrance road. The species occurs from Honduras and w Panama to sw Ecuador.
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi) – A regular around Septimo.
THREE-STRIPED WARBLER (Basileuterus tristriatus) – Also seen well along the Septimo driveway.
BLACK-CRESTED WARBLER (Myiothlypis nigrocristata) – Heard only at Guango, but seen along the road beyond San Isidro.
BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis fulvicauda) – We had nice views of a pair from the Rio Silanche bridge, where the male was belting out its loud, far-carrying song.
RUSSET-CROWNED WARBLER (Myiothlypis coronata) – We heard the west-slope bird along the old Nono-Mindo road, but we got good looks at the east-slope bird (mostly gray below) below the light posts at San Isidro.
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus) – A.k.a. "Slate-throated Whitestart" (for its white tail feathers), this one was common with mixed flocks on both slopes at middle to lower elevations.
SPECTACLED REDSTART (Myioborus melanocephalus ruficoronatus) – Replaces the last species at the higher elevations, where it too is fairly common. Both species overlap at San Isidro.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CAPPED CARDINAL (Paroaria gularis) – Next for the "tanagers and allies," the definition of which is in almost constant flux of late. Recent genetic studies have shown that what has been considered the Thraupidae consists of at least seven lineages mixed in with birds previously considered buntings, warblers, and grosbeaks. Eventually, we'll end up with a host of smaller families. In any case, we saw an impressive number of what have usually been called "tanagers," many of them strikingly beautiful. We saw one Red-capped Cardinal near the water's edge below the riverside clay lick on the Napo.


Flame-faced Tanager, one of the fancy Tangaras, this one at Finca Paz (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

MAGPIE TANAGER (Cissopis leverianus) – The monotypic Magpie "Tanager" was seen only in the eastern foothills along the side road near Sumaco village. (We missed a lot of other foothills inhabitants by having had heavy rain for most of our drive down the east slope to Coca.)
SUPERCILIARIED HEMISPINGUS (SUPERCILIARIED) (Hemispingus superciliaris nigrifrons) – We saw these with our first flock along the trail at Yanacocha on our first morning of birding.
BLACK-EARED HEMISPINGUS (BLACK-EARED) (Hemispingus melanotis melanotis) – Seen well at San Isidro, both under the lights and along the road.
ORANGE-HEADED TANAGER (Thlypopsis sordida) – On the young Napo island. [*]
WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Tachyphonus luctuosus) – We had great studies of males and the very different-looking females at close range from the Silanche tower.
MASKED CRIMSON TANAGER (Ramphocelus nigrogularis) – A dynamite tanager in red and black! We saw them well at Sacha and across the river at Providencia.
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo) – Fairly common around Sacha.
FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER (LEMON-RUMPED) (Ramphocelus flammigerus icteronotus) – The "Silver-beak of the west," here with the bright yellow rump.
HOODED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER (Buthraupis montana cucullata) – This big, noisy mountain-tanager travels in energetic flocks in the upper-elevation forests on both slopes. We saw them first at Yanacocha and then along the Guacamayos Ridge trail.
GRASS-GREEN TANAGER (Chlorornis riefferii riefferii) – These heavy-bodied tanagers with the red bill and legs were seen on this trip only along the Tandayapa Ridge.
LACRIMOSE MOUNTAIN-TANAGER (Anisognathus lacrymosus palpebrosus) – The smaller mountain-tanager with the yellow "teardrop" on its cheek; we saw it as we were exiting the Guacamayos Ridge trail.


Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager at Finca Paz (Photo by participant Marshall Dahl)

SCARLET-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER (Anisognathus igniventris erythronotus) – This high-elevation beauty was seen well repeatedly at Yanacocha.
BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER (Anisognathus somptuosus) – The common mountain-tanager at middle elevations; we saw the black-backed form in the west (at Pacha Quindi, where they were nesting; at Refugio Paz and Mindo Loma) and the olive-backed form in the east (at San Isidro and in Sumaco NP). It's another one that's hard to beat.
YELLOW-THROATED TANAGER (Iridosornis analis) – We had good views of this mid-elevation understory beauty along the road through Sumaco NP.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus quaesita) – We saw how Blue-grays in the lowlands/foothills on both slopes; this race is the western bird.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus coelestis) – The eastern subspecies; remember how the birds east of the Andes had white shoulders and white in the wings?
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum) – Common in the humid foothills and lowlands on both slopes.
BLUE-CAPPED TANAGER (Thraupis cyanocephala cyanocephala) – Seen along the Nono-Mindo road.
GOLDEN-NAPED TANAGER (Tangara ruficervix) – We saw 18 species of Tangaras, perhaps the fanciest of all the tanagers. This one was coming for bananas at the Refugio Paz feeders.
BLACK-CAPPED TANAGER (Tangara heinei) – We saw this species repeatedly, including a juvenile, on the west slope, from Septimo to the old Nono-Mindo road.
SCRUB TANAGER (Tangara vitriolina) – This was our final Tangara--and perhaps the least spiffy of the bunch. They were right on the hotel grounds near the new Quito airport, but they seemed predominantly young males. But Kathy did show us a good adult male just outside the grounds.


A Beryl-spangled Tanager in a fruiting melastome at Finca Paz (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

MASKED TANAGER (Tangara nigrocincta) – The light was stunning on this one, when it sat atop an eye-level tree near the metal canopy tower.
BLUE-NECKED TANAGER (Tangara cyanicollis) – Their name a misnomer, they were common at Septimo and Rio Silanche.
RUFOUS-THROATED TANAGER (Tangara rufigula) – Milpe. [*]
BLUE-AND-BLACK TANAGER (Tangara vassorii vassorii) – Seen only along the old Nono-Mindo road.
BERYL-SPANGLED TANAGER (Tangara nigroviridis) – Seen well repeatedly on both slopes.
METALLIC-GREEN TANAGER (Tangara labradorides labradorides) – Some folks got on this scarcer Tangara as a flock passed through the trees above Angel's new hummingbird feeders.
PARADISE TANAGER (Tangara chilensis) – With its chartreuse head, purple throat, blue breast, and red rump, Paradise may sport the most improbable design within the genus! At least four birds came right into "our tree" at Sacha's wooden canopy tower. The slightly duller individuals were probably young birds.
OPAL-RUMPED TANAGER (Tangara velia) – I don't think I've ever seen so many Opal-rumped and Opal-crowned tanagers flocking into one tree before! We had repeated wonderful views of them both as they fed on fruits very close to our wooden canopy platform.
OPAL-CROWNED TANAGER (Tangara callophrys) – Both species have opal rumps, but this one alone has the conspicuous opal crown.
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola) – Seen at Silanche.
SAFFRON-CROWNED TANAGER (Tangara xanthocephala venusta) – Seen along the Tandayapa Ridge and at San Isidro.
FLAME-FACED TANAGER (Tangara parzudakii) – We saw birds in the West coming to bananas at Angel's new feeders, and in the East they were seen at San Isidro.


Representing the colorful genus Tangara, this Golden Tanager from Refugio Paz lit up the forest, as did the many other Tangaras we encountered throughout the trip. (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

GREEN-AND-GOLD TANAGER (Tangara schrankii) – Another beauty, it was seen from both canopy towers at Sacha.
BLUE-WHISKERED TANAGER (Tangara johannae) – We saw this one from the Silanche canopy tower, where we often miss it on Jan-Mar visits.
GOLDEN TANAGER (Tangara arthus) – A personal favorite (see my cover photo), this one was fairly common on the west slope, and it occurs on the east slope as well. We drove through its elevational zone on the east slope during the rain.
SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis) – First seen at Septimo, this species was seen again on the banks of the Napo at Sacha.
BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata) – We had great views of the widespread white-bellied form from the Sacha canopy.
BLACK-FACED DACNIS (YELLOW-TUFTED) (Dacnis lineata egregia) – This yellow-bellied form with the yellow tufts has been considered a distinct species by some. We saw it well from the Silanche canopy tower.
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana) – Sacha canopy.
PURPLE HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes caeruleus) – Ditto.
GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza) – Seen from both Silanche and the Sacha canopy towers.
CINEREOUS CONEBILL (Conirostrum cinereum fraseri) – Seen well at Yanacocha, in the Quito Botanic Gardens, and near Tumbaco.
BLUE-BACKED CONEBILL (Conirostrum sitticolor sitticolor) – On this trip seen only at Yanacocha with our first flocks.
CAPPED CONEBILL (Conirostrum albifrons atrocyaneum) – Along the old Nono-Mindo road.
GLOSSY FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa lafresnayii) – This was the one with the whitish-blue shoulder patch; we saw it in the highlands at Yanacocha and Guango.


This Masked Flowerpiercer, a nectarivore that adapts readily to taking syrup from hummingbird feeders, was common at Yanacocha. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller

BLACK FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa humeralis aterrima) – Seen at Yanacocha, in the Botanic Gardens, and at Tumbaco.
WHITE-SIDED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa albilatera albilatera) – In the flowers at Refugio Paz after our empanadas and bolones verdes.
DEEP-BLUE FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa glauca tyrianthina) – A.k.a. Golden-eyed Flowerpiercer, this one was seen exceedingly well along the road through Sumaco NP.
BLUISH FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa caerulescens media) – Seen at San Isidro and in the Guacamayos.
MASKED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa cyanea) – This widespread montane species was seen drinking hummingbird syrup at Yanacocha and Guango, as well as with flocks at San Isidro and along the Nono-Mindo road.
PLUMBEOUS SIERRA-FINCH (Phrygilus unicolor geospizopsis) – Papallacta Pass.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina) – In the fields near Silanche.
CAQUETA SEEDEATER (Sporophila murallae) – (Sorry we didn't have time for this one.) [*]
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila nigricollis) – Near Nanegalito.
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila castaneiventris) – Near Sumaco village and on our young Napo island.
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEED-FINCH (Oryzoborus angolensis) – At the highway edge near Sumaco village.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola) – From the Silanche canopy tower.
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens) – On our young island.
BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus) – On this trip it was seen at Septimo and lower elevations in the West.


When we first reached the tallest platform of the metal canopy walkway, we found this Flat-headed Bromeliad Treefrog (Osteocephalus sp.) atop the rope. (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

BLACK-WINGED SALTATOR (Saltator atripennis) – This west-slope Choco specialty was seen well at Septimo and Refugio Paz.
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BRUSH-FINCH (CHESTNUT-CAPPED) (Arremon brunneinucha frontalis) – A pair played hide-and-seek with us at Guango, and John saw a bird on the Guacamayos trail.
TRICOLORED BRUSH-FINCH (CHOCO) (Atlapetes tricolor crassus) – The yellow-breasted birds of the foothills that we saw well at Septimo.
YELLOW-BREASTED BRUSH-FINCH (Atlapetes latinuchus spodionotus) – These were the handsome yellow-breasted birds we saw at Yanacocha (previously called Rufous-naped Brush-Finch).
WHITE-WINGED BRUSH-FINCH (WHITE-WINGED) (Atlapetes leucopterus leucopterus) – Not only were they eating rice at Tony & Barbara's, but they were feeding a fledgling. [N]
YELLOW-BROWED SPARROW (Ammodramus aurifrons) – Along the Wildsumaco side road off the Loreto road.
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis) – Seen or heard every day in the highlands.
COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (NORTHERN ANDES) (Chlorospingus flavopectus phaeocephalus) – This pale-eyed bush-tanager was seen with the flocks in Sumaco NP and at San Isidro.
DUSKY CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus semifuscus semifuscus) – A Choco specialty that was seen along the Tandayapa Ridge.
YELLOW-THROATED CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus flavigularis) – We saw the western version at Milpe.
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)


Four hours later, as the day heated up, the same Flat-headed Bromeliad Treefrog had completely changed colors! (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

GOLDEN-BELLIED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus chrysogaster chrysogaster) – Our only sightings on this trip were in the Botanic Gardens in Quito. A.k.a. Southern Yellow-Grosbeak.
BLUE SEEDEATER (BLUE) (Amaurospiza concolor aequatorialis) – It was a real surprise to hear a rather unfamiliar song on our first morning at Septimo, right from the parking lot! I was puzzled until we tracked its source to a male of this rare and local seedeater that is usually associated with bamboo. It was singing from the big bamboo there. Though it is known from Mindo, I've never seen it there before and am wondering if it's breeding there this year. We all had great views.
BLUE-BLACK GROSBEAK (Cyanocompsa cyanoides) – A male was seen briefly by some at Silanche and heard again at Sacha.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
RED-BREASTED BLACKBIRD (Sturnella militaris) – Marshall found this one in the grass beside the runway at the Coca airport.
ORIOLE BLACKBIRD (Gymnomystax mexicanus) – Seen well along the Rio Napo, including on our young island.
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus) – One bird sitting up along the Napo.
EPAULET ORIOLE (MORICHE) (Icterus cayanensis chrysocephalus) – A lovely male was seen from the metal tower.
ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL (Icterus croconotus) – Another outstanding bird, seen on this trip along the tributary to Providencia.
MOUNTAIN CACIQUE (GOLDEN-SHOULDERED) (Cacicus chrysonotus leucoramphus) – First at Sierra Azul and then along the Guacamayos Ridge trail.
SCARLET-RUMPED CACIQUE (PACIFIC) (Cacicus uropygialis pacificus) – Split by some, the race of the western lowlands was seen well at Silanche.
SCARLET-RUMPED CACIQUE (SUBTROPICAL) (Cacicus uropygialis uropygialis) – The highland race, sometimes split as Subtropical Cacique, was quite conspicuous at San Isidro.


Sunset from the canopy walkway at Sacha (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela) – The common cacique of the lowlands at Sacha.
RUSSET-BACKED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius angustifrons) – Common in the east, where it reaches higher elevations than the following species; it was seen from San Isidro down to Sacha. This is the one with the dark spots in the underside of its yellow tail. [N]
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus) – Common at Sacha, especially along the Napo. [N]
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies)
ORANGE-CROWNED EUPHONIA (Euphonia saturata) – Seen along the Septimo entrance road.
GOLDEN-RUMPED EUPHONIA (Euphonia cyanocephala pelzelni) – A real beauty! Our first ones were in the big mistletoe at our rest stop near Calacali. Individuals were also seen near Tumbaco and across from our hotel at San Jose.
GOLDEN-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chrysopasta) – Seen from the wooden canopy platform.
BRONZE-GREEN EUPHONIA (Euphonia mesochrysa) – With a little tanager flock along the road through Sumaco NP.
ORANGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia xanthogaster) – Common and widespread on both slopes.


Three Three-striped Night Monkeys peek out from their tree hollow on a cloudy day. (Photo by guide Rose Ann Rowlett)

RUFOUS-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia rufiventris) – We had an exceptionally large number of these coming into the fruits near (and in) our Sacha kapok tree.
HOODED SISKIN (Spinus magellanicus capitalis) – Seen in the Quito Botanic Gardens and on the grounds of our hotel near the new Quito airport.

MAMMALS
LONG-NOSED BAT (Rhynchonycteris naso) – Flying low over the water at Sacha.
PYGMY MARMOSET (Cebuella pygmaea) – We had nice scope views of one along the entrance boardwalk at Sacha.
BLACK-MANTLE TAMARIN (Saguinus nigricollis) – Regular at Sacha, where Julie had them outside her cabin and most of us saw them from a canopy platform.
COMMON SQUIRREL MONKEY (Saimiri sciureus) – The commonest primate at Sacha; and what a cutie!
THREE-STRIPED NIGHT MONKEY (Aotus trivirgatus) – We had seen one by night while working on Zigzag Herons, but it was a real treat to see the three heads poking out of their tree hole during the day on our trip to the butterfly house. Our only nocturnal primate.
RED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta seniculus) – Heard daily at Sacha, but we saw one troop sitting up on dead branches protruding from the canopy on our morning atop the metal walkway. They stayed until the Crested Eagle flew and then (we're told) made a rapid descent!
WHITE-FRONTED CAPUCHIN (Cebus albifrons) – Sacha.
RED-TAILED SQUIRREL (Sciurus granatensis) – This was the squirrel at San Isidro.
AMAZON DWARF SQUIRREL (Microsciurus flaviventer) – Oscar identified this one for us at Sacha.
BLACK AGOUTI (Dasyprocta fuliginosa) – John had one outside his cabin, and then most of the rest of us saw two animals below the walkway to our cabins on our return from Providencia and Anaconda.


This tarantula lived in a hole under one of the steps leading to our cabins at Sacha. It emerged at night. (Photo by participant Peggy Keller)

WHITE-TAILED DEER (Odocoileus virginianus) – We saw a buck and a doe in the paramo grasslands above Papallacta Pass. They're uncommon in the Andes of Ecuador, but Papallacta is a good site for them.


ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

In addition to the birds and mammals listed above, we encountered a nice sampling of other critters of note, most of them in the rainforest at Sacha:

--Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus) - fairly common along the edges of Pilchicocha, as detected by their bright eyeshine at night; one medium-sized one seems to be resident under the dining room; and we watched one big one behind the open-air bar-b-que area on stilts.

--Turnip-tailed Gecko (Thecadactylus rapicauda) - A pair of these big-headed, leaf-toed geckos seemed to have adopted the walls of the cabins Marshall and I were in as their nocturnal foraging grounds. The blue tail was likely regrowing after an a "close call" of some sort. The cover photo was by MDahl.

--Common Ameiva (Ameiva ameiva petersi) - The large lizard several of us encountered near our cabins during the breaks seems to have been of this species. They often bask in the sun at forest edges or in clearings.

--Common Neotropical Skink (Mabuya mabouya) - The common, smooth-skinned skink we saw several times moving among the leaves along the trails.

--The snake coiled in a tree above the riverside clay lick Oscar called a "Red-tailed Boa," which is a subspecies of Boa constrictor. Examining the plates (long afterward!), I wasn't sure it wasn't a smaller Rainbow Boa (Epicrates cenchria). If anyone got a photo of it, please send it and we'll check it out.

--Yellow-spotted Amazon River Turtle (Podocnemis unifilis) - These were the many turtles with the spotted cheeks we saw mostly along the Napo, but also right on Pichicocha.

--Giant Toad (Bufo marinus) - We saw a big one near the dining room while we were looking for screech-owls.

--Flat-headed Bromeliad Treefrog (Osteocephalus sp.? cf planiceps) - This is what Oscar called the fabulous frog on the rope railing of the metal canopy walkway. It amazed us by changing colors during the sunny morning from blackish with rust mottling to almost entirely white with pale yellowish mottling!

--The yellow-eyed frog that we photographed under the light near our meeting place I had trouble confirming. Oscar suggested Scinax garbei, but my photos don't match what I could find online, and we don't seem to have enough information to key it out using "The Biology of an Equatorial Herpetofauna in Amazonian Ecuador." So I'm left baffled by this one. Let me know if any of you figure it out.

Beyond the herps, there were the colorful butterflies (including the one on the cover taken by MDahl) and moths, the tarantulas and other spiders, and the impressive cuicas, or Giant Earthworms.


Totals for the tour: 508 bird taxa and 11 mammal taxa