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The exquisite Waved Albatross at Punta Suarez were favorites for many of us. The breeding colony on Espanola Island comprises the vast majority of the world population for this species. (Photo by guide Eric Hynes)
To experience the Galapagos Islands is to know one of the true gems of the natural world. It feels like you are living a National Geographic television special. The intimacy with the wildlife and the landscape is unparalleled. Our extensive private charter was on a comfortable craft, operated by a professional and friendly crew, and led by a local guide bursting with natural history information. What more could one ask for? Great food, agreeable weather, snorkeling... yep, we had all of that too.
We were greeted by fearless birds and mammals right from the start as we boarded the Nemo II at Baltra Island. Our circuitous route touched so many special places: Daphne Major, North Seymour, Floreana, Isabela, Fernandina, Santa Cruz, Espanola, Genovesa, and back to Santa Cruz and Baltra. Specific locations we visited were: Asilo de la Paz, Punta Moreno, Urbina Bay, Tagus Cove, Punta Espinosa, Dragon Hill, Whale Beach, Punta Suarez, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Darwin's Bay, Prince Philip's Steps, Cerro Crocker, Los Gemelos, Rancho Primicias, and Punta Ayora.
We eventually tallied all of the endemic birds except Mangrove Finch, a species so endangered that access to the only remaining site has been closed. Teasing out the various Darwin's finches became a little clearer by the end of the week thanks to repetition. The seabird show, from storm-petrels to albatross, was simply spectacular. Marine mammals and reptiles rounded out our unforgettable adventure.
Three cheers for Captain Carlos and his mighty crew (Mauricio, Robert, Ernesto, and Ivan). Peter Freire, our local guide, was outstanding as well. I want to thank all of you for being such a pleasure to travel with by land, air, and sea. I would gladly do so again in a heartbeat and I hope it happens sooner than later.
Sincerely,
--Eric
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
American Flamingos are fairly new arrivals to the Galapagos and yet they are already as indifferent to human presence as are the endemic species. (Photo by guide Eric Hynes)
WHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL (GALAPAGOS) (Anas bahamensis galapagensis) Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)
AMERICAN FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus ruber)
Spheniscidae (Penguins)
GALAPAGOS PENGUIN (Spheniscus mendiculus) [E]
Diomedeidae (Albatrosses)
WAVED ALBATROSS (Phoebastria irrorata)
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
GALAPAGOS PETREL (Pterodroma phaeopygia)
GALAPAGOS SHEARWATER (Puffinus subalaris)
Hydrobatidae (Storm-Petrels)
ELLIOT'S STORM-PETREL (Oceanites gracilis galapagoensis)
BAND-RUMPED STORM-PETREL (Oceanodroma castro)
WEDGE-RUMPED STORM-PETREL (Oceanodroma tethys tethys)
Phaethontidae (Tropicbirds)
RED-BILLED TROPICBIRD (Phaethon aethereus mesonauta)
Fregatidae (Frigatebirds)
Standing in the breeding colony of Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrels on Genovesa Island was mind-boggling. You may want to turn your volume down or off before hitting play. The only sound recorded was wind. (Video by guide Eric Hynes)
MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens) GREAT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata minor ridgwayi)
Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets)
NAZCA BOOBY (Sula granti)
BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY (Sula nebouxii excisa)
RED-FOOTED BOOBY (EASTERN PACIFIC) (Sula sula websteri)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
FLIGHTLESS CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax harrisi) [E]
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis urinator)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
STRIATED HERON (GALAPAGOS) (Butorides striata sundevalli) [E]
YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (GALAPAGOS) (Nyctanassa violacea pauper)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
GALAPAGOS HAWK (Buteo galapagoensis) [E]
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
We were so engrossed by the albatross, tropicbirds, and boobies patrolling the cliff on Espanola Island that it took awhile before anybody noticed the Galapagos Hawk kiting directly overhead. (Photo by guide Eric Hynes)
GALAPAGOS RAIL (Laterallus spilonotus) [E] PAINT-BILLED CRAKE (Neocrex erythrops)
COMMON GALLINULE (Gallinula galeata)
Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
AMERICAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus palliatus galapagensis)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (Himantopus mexicanus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
WANDERING TATTLER (Tringa incana)
WHIMBREL (AMERICAN) (Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
SWALLOW-TAILED GULL (Creagrus furcatus)
LAVA GULL (Leucophaeus fuliginosus) [E]
BROWN NODDY (Anous stolidus galapagensis)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
Even though this Galapagos Tortoise is likely more than a century old, it still chuckles at some potty humor. (Photo by guide Eric Hynes)
GALAPAGOS DOVE (Zenaida galapagoensis) [E] Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
DARK-BILLED CUCKOO (Coccyzus melacoryphus)
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani) [I]
Tytonidae (Barn-Owls)
BARN OWL (GALAPAGOS) (Tyto alba punctatissima)
Strigidae (Owls)
SHORT-EARED OWL (GALAPAGOS) (Asio flammeus galapagoensis)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (GALAPAGOS) (Pyrocephalus rubinus nanus)
GALAPAGOS FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus magnirostris) [E]
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
GALAPAGOS MARTIN (Progne modesta) [E]
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
GALAPAGOS MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus parvulus) [E]
FLOREANA MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus trifasciatus) [E]
ESPANOLA MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus macdonaldi) [E]
SAN CRISTOBAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus melanotis) [E]
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
YELLOW WARBLER (GALAPAGOS) (Setophaga petechia aureola)
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
There are 14 species of Darwin's finches (currently) and differences between many are very subtle. Behavior was a useful clue for some ID challenges. This male Vegetarian Finch gave himself away when he started nibbling leaves. (Photo by guide Eric Hynes)
GREEN WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea olivacea) [E] GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca mentalis)
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca luteola)
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca cinerascens)
VEGETARIAN FINCH (Platyspiza crassirostris) [E]
WOODPECKER FINCH (Camarhynchus pallidus pallidus)
WOODPECKER FINCH (Camarhynchus pallidus productus)
WOODPECKER FINCH (Camarhynchus pallidus striatipectus) [E]
The use of tools is extremely rare in the bird world. Watching this Woodpecker Finch snap off a little twig and probe cavities for insects was thrilling. (Photo by guide Eric Hynes)
LARGE TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus psittacula psittacula) MEDIUM TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus pauper) [E]
SMALL TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus parvulus parvulus)
SMALL TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus parvulus salvini)
SMALL GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza fuliginosa) [E]
LARGE GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza magnirostris) [E]
SHARP-BEAKED GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza difficilis difficilis)
COMMON CACTUS-FINCH (Geospiza scandens intermedia)
MEDIUM GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza fortis) [E]
LARGE CACTUS-FINCH (Geospiza conirostris conirostris) [E]
LARGE CACTUS-FINCH (Geospiza conirostris propinqua) [E]
BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN (Tursiops truncatus)
SHORT-BEAKED COMMON DOLPHIN (Delphinus delphis)
FIN WHALE (Balaenoptera physalus)
"GALAPAGOS" SEA LION (Zalophus californianus wollebacki)
GALAPAGOS FUR SEAL (Arctocephalus galapagoensis) [E]
The Galapagos Islands are host to a number of fascinating, signature reptile species as well. The following are the ones we encountered:
Galapagos Tortoise (Geochelone elephantopus) - There are 14 recognized subspecies but only 11 of them still survive. The subspecies are divided into two groups by carapace shape: saddle and dome. The total population is thought to number around 15,000. Go Diego!
Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas) - It is also referred to as the Black Turtle and the Pacific Green Turtle. The "Galapagos Green Turtle" is assigned to the eastern Pacific subspecies agassizi but many would argue that they are a distinct population. More research is needed. We spotted them from the boat frequently and those that snorkeled had many close sightings.
Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus) - The only marine iguana in the world whose foraging behavior is unique. There are seven subspecies scattered around the islands. They are separated from the land iguanas by their head shape and long, laterally compressed tail. We saw them basking in heaps and piles.
Land Iguana (Conolophus subcristatus) - The terrestrial iguana of the Galapagos and the chubbiest iguanas I have ever seen.
Galapagos Lava Lizard (Microlophus albemarlensis) - The widespread species we noted on Fernandina, Isabela, North Seymour, and Santa Cruz.
Espanola Lava Lizard (Microlophus delanonis)
Floreana Lava Lizard (Microlophus grayi)
San Cristobal Lizard (Microlophus bivattatus)
We saw a number of smaller rays launching out of the water and at least a half dozen large Manta Rays glided under the bow.
Sally Lightfoot Crabs (Grapsus grapsus) clung to every rocky shoreline.
Totals for the tour: 66 bird taxa and 5 mammal taxa