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African Pygmy-Geese are not geese at all, but perching ducks, aligned most closely with such diverse species as Muscovy Duck, Ringed Teal, and Wood Duck. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
Ghana has really come to the fore in recent years with some outstanding birds and the chance to see many of the Upper Guinea endemics that are unavailable elsewhere at this time, so it was great to return to West Africa once again in 2013 and also to get the chance to do a second tour after the first one, which made for an interesting comparison. The final result was very similar in terms of overall species numbers, maybe 15 less on the second tour which saw fewer shorebirds and terns and did not have the whole morning at Shai Hills, but amazingly there were around 40 species different on the two trips, reflecting the later date of the second tour, wetter conditions, and a different group.
Happily the two great stars, the White-necked Picathartes and the Egyptian Plover, showed very well again, and there were some nice bonuses as well: actually seeing Brown Nightjar; a male Standard-winged Nightjar in full plumage along with a nearby female and baby; great flight views of Rosy Bee-eater; Capuchin Babbler; and a wonderful forest skulker group at Ankasa which gave Green-tailed Bristlebill, Forest Robin and White-tailed Alethe showing amazingly well.
Ghana is a vibrant, lively country that looks to be doing well; the roads are passable and the country is clearly keen to develop tourism, so you don't get hassled at the numerous police roadblocks. The people are friendly and you get many spontaneous waves and smiles, which is always nice. Its big birding attraction is some sizeable blocks of the greatly threatened Upper Guinea forest that are still fairly intact, and access to the Guinea savana and the edges of the Sahel zone in the far north. Coffee, it has to be said, is dire, and internet access very tricky, but the local food is tasty and we were kept well supplied with bananas and biscuits on the bus- I set a personal best for ginger snaps this tour.
Being in West Africa, Ghana is of course a hot and often humid country, but we were lucky with no major power outages for this tour. Vehicle unavailability meant we had to walk to the ponds at Ankasa from the mudhole, but we managed very well and it was interesting to bird the main track. It all worked out nicely and we ended up with an impressive list and some truly memorable sightings and experiences. This year was much greener than normal in the north and east due to early rains, so again we had quite a few unexpected sightings and Phil added another 11 species (plus 5 lifers!) to his Ghana list on what was his fifth tour here.
The Accra/Tema area offers a fine introduction, with some nice  species at Shai Hills, including the much sought-after Blue-bellied Roller, Vieillot's Barbet at the hotel, and White-crowned (Mocking) Cliff-Chat. Gambian Mongoose was a good and unexpected mammal tick here too. We saw a few migrant Palearctic shorebirds at Sakumono lagoon, as well as Black Heron and Western Reef Heron. Winneba Plains gave us Senegal Plover, African Hobby at nest, a very obliging Guinea Turaco and Red-winged Warbler, whilst a nearby small lily pond had beautiful African Pygmy-Goose. Winneba Lagoon gave us White-fronted Plover and Eurasian Curlew, whilst the distinctive West African race of Royal Tern was a nice find.
Happily the much-delayed Martha was able to catch up with us in time for Kakum Walkway, which is quite an experience, and a super way to see many forest species including Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Rosy Bee-eater, Large-billed (Sabine's)
Puffback, Yellow-mantled Weaver, Golden Greenbul, and Violet-backed Hyliota. Our dusk foray here was brilliant, with first of all an amazing spot of Brown Nightjar by Petra, then views of Potto, Prince Demidoff's Bushbaby and best of all, Pel's Anomalure, a fantastic mammal trifecta. Other great birds nearby included Cassin's, Sabine's and Black spinetails, Black Bee-eater, Chestnut-bellied Helmetshrike, Red-vented Malimbe, and Buff-throated, Blue-throated Brown, Fraser's, Olive-bellied, Tiny, and Johanna's sunbirds. An afternoon at Abrafo (Ebekawopa) Forest gave us more Sabine's Spinetail, Buff-throated Sunbird, Chestnut-winged Starling and a fabulous adult Long-tailed Hawk that flew in late and sat for some time. We also had a neat cultural experience at Antikwaa, being shown how they harvest the sap for palm wine, and also distill a potent spirit. Palm wine tasted pretty good too.
Our next stop was over at Ankasa NP in the far west, and this was memorable for great views of Hartlaub's Duck, Shining-Blue Kingfisher, Yellow-billed and Great Blue Turaco, Rufous-sided Broadbill, Bristle-nosed Barbet, Yellow-bearded, Western Bearded and Swamp Palm greenbuls, and for some of us a very skulking Rufous-winged Illadopsis, plus Mouse-brown and Reichenbach's sunbirds nearby and Carmelite Sunbirds at our hotel. Coming back to Kakum, we scored well with Long-tailed Nightjar and Fraser's Eagle-Owl at dusk, not too far from the lodge. Good we made time for the stop.
White-necked Picathartes (Rockfowl) is the flagship species, and there is a terrific site that is being looked after by the local villagers and where your chances of seeing this legendary bird are very good. Our tour this year had just about ten minutes wait on the newly constructed benches, then a picathartes hopped in on the rock edge above, vanished and reappeared several times before hopping down over the boulders near the rock overhang. In the end, we had great views of at least 2 and maybe 3 birds, a wonderful experience for all of us, and Jenny made her entrance in brilliant time just as the birds appeared. Phil still needs a photo, and his fall on the wet and muddy track on the way in made for a painful afternoon. My thanks for all the various medications from a solicitous group which got me through the rest of the trip largely one-handed!
Heading up-country we got into a much drier habitat from Kumasi northwards, with Mole NP a very diverting stop. En route we stopped at a new forest site for Blue-headed Bee-eater, which sadly chose not to show, but Capuchin Babbler was nice compensation. Star birds at Mole included Standard-winged Nightjar and a marvellous Grayish Eagle-Owl at the airstrip, incredible views of Stone Partridge, the much desired and hard to find Forbes's Plover, Black Scimitarbill, White Helmetshrike, the elusive Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver, Violet Turaco and Familiar Chat. African Elephants right by the track were also a marvellous experience.
Heading still further north we got Fox Kestrel, Rock-loving Cisticola and White-rumped Seedeater at the striking granite boulder country of the Tongo Hills sacred shrine area, then got into some far-northern species like Chestnut-bellied and Long-tailed starlings, Yellow-billed Oxpeckers on cattle, White-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Speckle-fronted Weaver, Spotted Thick-knee, Small Buttonquail, unexpected Singing Bushlark, and best of all, the great prize: Egyptian Plover right on the Burkina Faso border, where there were at least 7 fine adults on the sandbars in the White Volta and also feeding in the wet ploughed fields.
Going back south, the fascinating Bobiri butterfly sanctuary gave us a wonderful view of Red-thighed Sparrowhawk, Blue Cuckooshrike, Forest Wood-hoopoe, a flyby of Afep Pigeon and again Magpie Mannikin in the seeding bamboos, plus some fantastic butterflies--this tiny site has over 420 species recorded, an astonishing diversity though Atewa has over 600!
This latter site gave us an elusive Red-cheeked Wattle-eye which a few of us saw, plus displaying Crowned Eagles as the last addition to the trip sightings. Other notables included Western Bluebill, Black-capped Apalis, Purple-throated Cuckooshrike, Black-necked and Grosbeak weavers, and an amazingly co-operative Puvel's illadopsis that most folks saw well.
It was another memorable Ghana tour, and thanks to James, Andrew, and Appiah from Ashanti African Tours for their hard work and good humor. Thanks to James for the use of his phone too. Also to Sharon at FG HQ for her hard work, and many thanks as well to a convivial and enthusiastic group who had a great introduction to this terrific West African destination and made it a fun tour to lead. Particular thanks to Jenny, Petra, and Manfred for the medications which helped me continue the trip despite my arm problem. Glenda kindly brought a surplus spare pair of binoculars which found a grateful recipient in Andrew, a nice gesture, and I know the donation to the Picathartes Primary School being built by Ashanti African Tours will be appreciated too. We were also able to make good use of Andrew and his vast knowledge of Ghana's 1000+ butterflies and their amazing names, which added another dimension to the trip. I hope to share adventures with you again, and already look forward to Ghana 2014.
--Phil Gregory, Accra and Addis Ababa April 2013
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata)
HARTLAUB'S DUCK (Pteronetta hartlaubii)
A well-camouflaged Spotted Thick-knee, one of three birds we found at Tono Dam. (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
SPUR-WINGED GOOSE (Plectropterus gambensis gambensis) AFRICAN PYGMY-GOOSE (Nettapus auritus)
Numididae (Guineafowl)
HELMETED GUINEAFOWL (Numida meleagris galeatus)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
AHANTA FRANCOLIN (Francolinus ahantensis) [*]
DOUBLE-SPURRED FRANCOLIN (Francolinus bicalcaratus)
STONE PARTRIDGE (Ptilopachus petrosus)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (LITTLE) (Tachybaptus ruficollis ruficollis)
Ciconiidae (Storks)
ABDIM'S STORK (Ciconia abdimii)
WOOLLY-NECKED STORK (Ciconia episcopus microscelis)
SADDLE-BILLED STORK (Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
LONG-TAILED CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax africanus)
Scopidae (Hamerkop)
HAMERKOP (Scopus umbretta)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
BLACK-HEADED HERON (Ardea melanocephala)
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
GREAT EGRET (AFRICAN) (Ardea alba melanorhyncha)
INTERMEDIATE EGRET (Mesophoyx intermedia brachyrhyncha)
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
WESTERN REEF-HERON (WESTERN) (Egretta gularis gularis)
BLACK HERON (Egretta ardesiaca)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (EURASIAN) (Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
HADADA IBIS (Bostrychia hagedash)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE (Elanus caeruleus)
AFRICAN HARRIER-HAWK (Polyboroides typus)
PALM-NUT VULTURE (Gypohierax angolensis)
A Red-chested Goshawk looking angry. Could it be because the West African field guide still treats it as a race of African Goshawk? (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
AFRICAN CUCKOO-HAWK (Aviceda cuculoides) WHITE-HEADED VULTURE (Trigonoceps occipitalis)
HOODED VULTURE (Necrosyrtes monachus)
WHITE-BACKED VULTURE (Gyps africanus)
BATELEUR (Terathopius ecaudatus)
BEAUDOUIN'S SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus beaudouini)
CROWNED HAWK-EAGLE (Stephanoaetus coronatus)
AYRES'S HAWK-EAGLE (Hieraaetus ayresii)
LIZARD BUZZARD (Kaupifalco monogrammicus)
DARK CHANTING-GOSHAWK (Melierax metabates)
GRASSHOPPER BUZZARD (Butastur rufipennis)
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
RED-CHESTED GOSHAWK (Accipiter toussenelii)
SHIKRA (Accipiter badius)
RED-THIGHED SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter erythropus erythropus)
LONG-TAILED HAWK (Urotriorchis macrourus)
BLACK KITE (YELLOW-BILLED) (Milvus migrans parasitus)
RED-NECKED BUZZARD (Buteo auguralis)
Otididae (Bustards)
STANLEY BUSTARD (Neotis denhami denhami)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
WHITE-SPOTTED FLUFFTAIL (Sarothrura pulchra)
BLACK CRAKE (Amaurornis flavirostra)
PURPLE SWAMPHEN (AFRICAN) (Porphyrio porphyrio madagascariensis)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
SENEGAL THICK-KNEE (Burhinus senegalensis)
SPOTTED THICK-KNEE (Burhinus capensis maculosus)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
SPUR-WINGED PLOVER (Vanellus spinosus)
One of the star birds of the tour- an Egyptian Plover along the White Volta at Bawku. (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
BLACK-HEADED LAPWING (Vanellus tectus tectus) SENEGAL LAPWING (Vanellus lugubris)
WATTLED LAPWING (Vanellus senegallus)
BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola)
COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula)
FORBES'S PLOVER (Charadrius forbesi)
WHITE-FRONTED PLOVER (Charadrius marginatus mechowi)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
AFRICAN JACANA (Actophilornis africanus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)
Turnicidae (Buttonquail)
SMALL BUTTONQUAIL (Turnix sylvaticus lepurana)
Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)
EGYPTIAN PLOVER (Pluvianus aegyptius)
ROCK PRATINCOLE (RUFOUS-NAPED) (Glareola nuchalis liberiae)
Rostratulidae (Painted-Snipes)
GREATER PAINTED-SNIPE (Rostratula benghalensis)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK TERN (EURASIAN) (Chlidonias niger niger)
WHITE-WINGED TERN (Chlidonias leucopterus)
ROYAL TERN (AFRICAN) (Thalasseus maximus albididorsalis)
It may well feed on plantains, but the Western Plantain-eater is far more likely to be seen eating smaller fruits like figs. (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis) Pteroclidae (Sandgrouse)
FOUR-BANDED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles quadricinctus)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
SPECKLED PIGEON (Columba guinea guinea)
AFEP PIGEON (Columba unicincta)
MOURNING COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decipiens)
RED-EYED DOVE (Streptopelia semitorquata)
VINACEOUS DOVE (Streptopelia vinacea)
LAUGHING DOVE (Streptopelia senegalensis)
BLACK-BILLED WOOD-DOVE (Turtur abyssinicus)
BLUE-SPOTTED WOOD-DOVE (Turtur afer)
TAMBOURINE DOVE (Turtur tympanistria)
NAMAQUA DOVE (Oena capensis)
BRUCE'S GREEN-PIGEON (Treron waalia)
AFRICAN GREEN-PIGEON (Treron calvus)
Musophagidae (Turacos)
GREAT BLUE TURACO (Corythaeola cristata)
GUINEA TURACO (Tauraco persa) [E]
YELLOW-BILLED TURACO (Tauraco macrorhynchus) [E]
VIOLET TURACO (Musophaga violacea)
WESTERN PLANTAIN-EATER (Crinifer piscator)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
PIED CUCKOO (Clamator jacobinus pica)
LEVAILLANT'S CUCKOO (Clamator levaillantii)
RED-CHESTED CUCKOO (Cuculus solitarius)
BLACK CUCKOO (Cuculus clamosus gabonensis)
A sparkling male African Emerald Cuckoo was one of the many fabulous birds we got eye level views of from the superb canopy walkway at Kakum. (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
AFRICAN CUCKOO (Cuculus gularis) OLIVE LONG-TAILED CUCKOO (Cercococcyx olivinus) [*]
YELLOW-THROATED CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx flavigularis) [*]
KLAAS'S CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx klaas)
AFRICAN EMERALD CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx cupreus)
DIDERIC CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx caprius)
YELLOWBILL (Ceuthmochares aereus)
BLACK-THROATED COUCAL (Centropus leucogaster) [*]
BLUE-HEADED COUCAL (Centropus monachus)
SENEGAL COUCAL (Centropus senegalensis)
Strigidae (Owls)
NORTHERN WHITE-FACED OWL (Ptilopsis leucotis)
GRAYISH EAGLE-OWL (Bubo cinerascens)
FRASER'S EAGLE-OWL (Bubo poensis)
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
STANDARD-WINGED NIGHTJAR (Macrodipteryx longipennis)
BROWN NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus binotatus) [*]
BLACK-SHOULDERED NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus nigriscapularis) [*]
LONG-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus climacurus)
Apodidae (Swifts)
BLACK SPINETAIL (Telacanthura melanopygia) [E]
SABINE'S SPINETAIL (Rhaphidura sabini)
CASSIN'S SPINETAIL (Neafrapus cassini)
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
What's the difference between a standard nightjar and a Standard-winged Nightjar? Just a couple of elaborate wing plumes. (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
LITTLE SWIFT (Apus affinis) WHITE-RUMPED SWIFT (Apus caffer)
AFRICAN PALM-SWIFT (Cypsiurus parvus)
Trogonidae (Trogons)
NARINA TROGON (Apaloderma narina) [*]
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
SHINING-BLUE KINGFISHER (Alcedo quadribrachys)
MALACHITE KINGFISHER (Corythornis cristatus)
WHITE-BELLIED KINGFISHER (Corythornis leucogaster) [*]
AFRICAN PYGMY-KINGFISHER (Ispidina picta)
CHOCOLATE-BACKED KINGFISHER (Halcyon badia) [*]
GRAY-HEADED KINGFISHER (Halcyon leucocephala)
WOODLAND KINGFISHER (Halcyon senegalensis)
BLUE-BREASTED KINGFISHER (Halcyon malimbica)
PIED KINGFISHER (Ceryle rudis)
Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
BLACK BEE-EATER (Merops gularis gularis)
RED-THROATED BEE-EATER (Merops bulocki)
LITTLE BEE-EATER (Merops pusillus)
WHITE-THROATED BEE-EATER (Merops albicollis)
EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster) [*]
ROSY BEE-EATER (Merops malimbicus) [E]
NORTHERN CARMINE BEE-EATER (Merops nubicus)
Coraciidae (Rollers)
ABYSSINIAN ROLLER (Coracias abyssinicus)
RUFOUS-CROWNED ROLLER (Coracias naevius)
BLUE-BELLIED ROLLER (Coracias cyanogaster)
BROAD-BILLED ROLLER (Eurystomus glaucurus)
BLUE-THROATED ROLLER (Eurystomus gularis)
Phoeniculidae (Woodhoopoes and Scimitar-bills)
GREEN WOODHOOPOE (Phoeniculus purpureus)
WHITE-HEADED WOODHOOPOE (Phoeniculus bollei)
FOREST WOODHOOPOE (Phoeniculus castaneiceps)
BLACK SCIMITAR-BILL (Rhinopomastus aterrimus)
Bucerotidae (Hornbills)
WHITE-CRESTED HORNBILL (Tockus albocristatus)
BLACK DWARF HORNBILL (Tockus hartlaubi)
RED-BILLED DWARF HORNBILL (Tockus camurus)
NORTHERN RED-BILLED HORNBILL (Tockus erythrorhynchus)
AFRICAN PIED HORNBILL (Tockus fasciatus)
One of seven species of beautiful bee-eaters seen on the tour, the gorgeous Red-throated Bee-eater. (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
AFRICAN GRAY HORNBILL (Tockus nasutus) PIPING HORNBILL (Ceratogymna fistulator)
BLACK-CASQUED HORNBILL (Ceratogymna atrata)
YELLOW-CASQUED HORNBILL (Ceratogymna elata) [E*]
Lybiidae (African Barbets)
BRISTLE-NOSED BARBET (Gymnobucco peli)
NAKED-FACED BARBET (Gymnobucco calvus)
SPECKLED TINKERBIRD (Pogoniulus scolopaceus)
RED-RUMPED TINKERBIRD (Pogoniulus atroflavus)
YELLOW-THROATED TINKERBIRD (Pogoniulus subsulphureus)
YELLOW-RUMPED TINKERBIRD (Pogoniulus bilineatus)
YELLOW-FRONTED TINKERBIRD (Pogoniulus chrysoconus)
YELLOW-SPOTTED BARBET (Buccanodon duchaillui) [*]
HAIRY-BREASTED BARBET (Tricholaema hirsuta)
VIEILLOT'S BARBET (Lybius vieilloti)
DOUBLE-TOOTHED BARBET (Lybius bidentatus)
BEARDED BARBET (Lybius dubius)
Indicatoridae (Honeyguides)
CASSIN'S HONEYGUIDE (Prodotiscus insignis flavodorsalis)
GREATER HONEYGUIDE (Indicator indicator) [*]
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
AFRICAN PICULET (Sasia africana)
FINE-SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Campethera punctuligera)
BUFF-SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Campethera nivosa)
CARDINAL WOODPECKER (Dendropicos fuscescens)
MELANCHOLY WOODPECKER (Dendropicos lugubris) [E*]
FIRE-BELLIED WOODPECKER (Dendropicos pyrrhogaster) [E]
GRAY WOODPECKER (Dendropicos goertae)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (EURASIAN) (Falco tinnunculus rufescens)
FOX KESTREL (Falco alopex)
GRAY KESTREL (Falco ardosiaceus)
AFRICAN HOBBY (Falco cuvierii)
LANNER FALCON (Falco biarmicus)
Psittacidae (Parrots)
ROSE-RINGED PARAKEET (Psittacula krameri)
BLACK-COLLARED LOVEBIRD (Agapornis swindernianus)
GRAY PARROT (Psittacus erithacus erithacus)
RED-FRONTED PARROT (Poicephalus gulielmi)
SENEGAL PARROT (Poicephalus senegalus)
Calyptomenidae (African and Green Broadbills)
RUFOUS-SIDED BROADBILL (Smithornis rufolateralis)
Platysteiridae (Wattle-eyes and Batises)
AFRICAN SHRIKE-FLYCATCHER (Megabyas flammulatus flammulatus)
BLACK-AND-WHITE SHRIKE-FLYCATCHER (Bias musicus)
BROWN-THROATED WATTLE-EYE (Platysteira cyanea)
CHESTNUT WATTLE-EYE (Platysteira castanea hormophora)
RED-CHEEKED WATTLE-EYE (Platysteira blissetti) [E]
SENEGAL BATIS (Batis senegalensis) [E]
WEST AFRICAN BATIS (Batis occulta)
Prionopidae (Helmetshrikes and Allies)
WHITE HELMETSHRIKE (Prionops plumatus)
CHESTNUT-BELLIED HELMETSHRIKE (Prionops caniceps)
Malaconotidae (Bushshrikes and Allies)
BRUBRU (Nilaus afer afer)
NORTHERN PUFFBACK (Dryoscopus gambensis)
LARGE-BILLED PUFFBACK (Dryoscopus sabini) [E]
BLACK-CROWNED TCHAGRA (Tchagra senegalus)
The bird that's on everyone's want list for Ghana- the stellar White-necked Rockfowl, which put in an amazing performance for us this trip. (Photo by tour participant Randy Siebert)
BROWN-CROWNED TCHAGRA (Tchagra australis) COMMON GONOLEK (Laniarius barbarus)
SOOTY BOUBOU (Laniarius leucorhynchus) [*]
SULPHUR-BREASTED BUSHSHRIKE (Telophorus sulfureopectus)
Campephagidae (Cuckooshrikes)
RED-SHOULDERED CUCKOOSHRIKE (Campephaga phoenicea)
PURPLE-THROATED CUCKOOSHRIKE (Campephaga quiscalina)
BLUE CUCKOOSHRIKE (Cyanograucalus azureus)
Laniidae (Shrikes)
SOUTHERN FISCAL (Lanius collaris)
YELLOW-BILLED SHRIKE (Corvinella corvina)
Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
WESTERN BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE (Oriolus brachyrhynchus)
BLACK-WINGED ORIOLE (Oriolus nigripennis)
Dicruridae (Drongos)
SHINING DRONGO (Dicrurus atripennis)
FORK-TAILED DRONGO (Dicrurus adsimilis)
VELVET-MANTLED DRONGO (Dicrurus modestus)
Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers)
BLUE-HEADED CRESTED-FLYCATCHER (Trochocercus nitens)
BLACK-HEADED PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (Terpsiphone rufiventer)
AFRICAN PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (Terpsiphone viridis)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
PIAPIAC (Ptilostomus afer)
PIED CROW (Corvus albus)
Picathartidae (Rockfowl)
WHITE-NECKED ROCKFOWL (Picathartes gymnocephalus) [E]
Nicatoridae (Nicators)
YELLOW-SPOTTED NICATOR (Nicator chloris)
Alaudidae (Larks)
SINGING BUSHLARK (Mirafra cantillans chadensis)
SUN LARK (Galerida modesta)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
RED-CHESTED SWALLOW (Hirundo lucida lucida)
ETHIOPIAN SWALLOW (Hirundo aethiopica aethiopica)
WHITE-THROATED BLUE SWALLOW (Hirundo nigrita)
WIRE-TAILED SWALLOW (Hirundo smithii smithii)
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (WEST AFRICAN) (Cecropis daurica domicella)
LESSER STRIPED-SWALLOW (Cecropis abyssinica)
RUFOUS-CHESTED SWALLOW (Cecropis semirufa gordoni)
PREUSS'S SWALLOW (Petrochelidon preussi)
SQUARE-TAILED SAWWING (Psalidoprocne nitens)
FANTI SAWWING (Psalidoprocne obscura)
Stenostiridae (Fairy Flycatchers)
AFRICAN BLUE-FLYCATCHER (Elminia longicauda) [*]
Paridae (Chickadees and Tits)
WHITE-SHOULDERED BLACK-TIT (Melaniparus guineensis)
Remizidae (Penduline-Tits)
FOREST PENDULINE-TIT (Anthoscopus flavifrons)
TIT-HYLIA (Pholidornis rushiae)
Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)
SLENDER-BILLED GREENBUL (Stelgidillas gracilirostris)
A view of the Kakum Walkway, from which we saw such notable birds as Black-collared Lovebird, Golden Greenbul, and Violet-backed Hyliota. (Photo by tour participant Martha Vandervoort)
GOLDEN GREENBUL (Calyptocichla serinus) [E] COMMON BRISTLEBILL (Bleda syndactylus) [*]
GREEN-TAILED BRISTLEBILL (Bleda eximius) [E]
GRAY-HEADED BRISTLEBILL (Bleda canicapillus) [E]
SIMPLE GREENBUL (Chlorocichla simplex)
HONEYGUIDE GREENBUL (Baeopogon indicator)
YELLOW-THROATED GREENBUL (Atimastillas flavicollis)
SPOTTED GREENBUL (Ixonotus guttatus)
SWAMP GREENBUL (Thescelocichla leucopleura)
RED-TAILED GREENBUL (Criniger calurus)
WESTERN BEARDED-GREENBUL (Criniger barbatus) [E]
YELLOW-BEARDED GREENBUL (Criniger olivaceus) [E]
GRAY GREENBUL (Eurillas gracilis)
ANSORGE'S GREENBUL (Eurillas ansorgei)
PLAIN GREENBUL (Eurillas curvirostris)
LITTLE GREENBUL (Eurillas virens)
ICTERINE GREENBUL (Phyllastrephus icterinus)
COMMON BULBUL (Pycnonotus barbatus)
Macrosphenidae (African Warblers)
GREEN CROMBEC (Sylvietta virens flaviventris) [*]
LEMON-BELLIED CROMBEC (Sylvietta denti hardyi)
NORTHERN CROMBEC (Sylvietta brachyura brachyura)
MOUSTACHED GRASS-WARBLER (Melocichla mentalis mentalis)
KEMP'S LONGBILL (Macrosphenus kempi) [E]
GRAY LONGBILL (Macrosphenus concolor)
Cettiidae (Bush-Warblers and Allies)
CHESTNUT-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Erythrocercus mccallii)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf-Warblers)
WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus)
WOOD WARBLER (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)
Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)
BLACK-CAPPED APALIS (Apalis nigriceps nigriceps)
SHARPE'S APALIS (Apalis sharpii) [E]
GREEN-BACKED CAMAROPTERA (GRAY-BACKED) (Camaroptera brachyura brevicaudata)
YELLOW-BROWED CAMAROPTERA (Camaroptera superciliaris)
OLIVE-GREEN CAMAROPTERA (Camaroptera chloronota)
RED-FACED CISTICOLA (Cisticola erythrops erythrops)
SINGING CISTICOLA (Cisticola cantans swanzii)
WHISTLING CISTICOLA (Cisticola lateralis lateralis)
ROCK-LOVING CISTICOLA (Cisticola aberrans admiralis)
WINDING CISTICOLA (WINDING) (Cisticola galactotes amphilectus)
This tour featured a fine assortment of weavers, including this lovely male Orange Weaver which we found in a weaver colony at Half Assini. (Photo by tour participant Jenny Golden)
CROAKING CISTICOLA (Cisticola natalensis strangei) SIFFLING CISTICOLA (Cisticola brachypterus brachypterus)
ORIOLE WARBLER (Hypergerus atriceps) [*]
TAWNY-FLANKED PRINIA (Prinia subflava)
RED-WINGED PRINIA (Prinia erythroptera erythroptera)
SENEGAL EREMOMELA (Eremomela pusilla)
RUFOUS-CROWNED EREMOMELA (Eremomela badiceps fantiensis)
Sylviidae (Sylviids, Parrotbills and Allies)
GREEN HYLIA (Hylia prasina)
Zosteropidae (Yuhinas, White-eyes, and Allies)
AFRICAN YELLOW WHITE-EYE (Zosterops senegalensis)
Pellorneidae (Fulvettas and Ground Babblers)
BLACKCAP ILLADOPSIS (Illadopsis cleaveri cleaveri)
RUFOUS-WINGED ILLADOPSIS (Illadopsis rufescens) [E]
PUVEL'S ILLADOPSIS (Illadopsis puveli puveli)
PALE-BREASTED ILLADOPSIS (Illadopsis rufipennis extrema) [*]
Leiothrichidae (Laughingthrushes)
BLACKCAP BABBLER (Turdoides reinwardtii) [E]
BROWN BABBLER (Turdoides plebejus)
CAPUCHIN BABBLER (Phyllanthus atripennis haynesi)
Hyliotidae (Hyliotas)
VIOLET-BACKED HYLIOTA (Hyliota violacea nehrkorni)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
PALE FLYCATCHER (Bradornis pallidus)
NORTHERN BLACK-FLYCATCHER (Melaenornis edolioides edolioides)
AFRICAN FOREST-FLYCATCHER (Fraseria ocreata prosphora)
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)
USSHER'S FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa ussheri) [E]
SWAMP FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa aquatica aquatica)
LITTLE FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa epulata)
DUSKY-BLUE FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa comitata aximensis)
TESSMANN'S FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa tessmanni)
CASSIN'S FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa cassini)
ASHY FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa caerulescens nigrorum)
GRAY-THROATED TIT-FLYCATCHER (Myioparus griseigularis)
GRAY TIT-FLYCATCHER (Myioparus plumbeus)
FIRE-CRESTED ALETHE (WHITE-TAILED) (Alethe diademata diademata) [E]
FOREST SCRUB-ROBIN (Cercotrichas leucosticta) [*]
SNOWY-CROWNED ROBIN-CHAT (Cossypha niveicapilla)
FOREST ROBIN (WESTERN) (Stiphrornis erythrothorax erythrothorax)
EUROPEAN PIED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula hypoleuca)
WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra)
WHITE-FRONTED BLACK-CHAT (Myrmecocichla albifrons)
MOCKING CLIFF-CHAT (Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris coronata)
FAMILIAR CHAT (Cercomela familiaris)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
FINSCH'S FLYCATCHER-THRUSH (Neocossyphus finschii) [E]
WHITE-TAILED ANT-THRUSH (Neocossyphus poensis)
AFRICAN THRUSH (Turdus pelios)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
GREATER BLUE-EARED GLOSSY-STARLING (Lamprotornis chalybaeus chalybaeus)
BRONZE-TAILED GLOSSY-STARLING (Lamprotornis chalcurus)
SPLENDID GLOSSY-STARLING (Lamprotornis splendidus)
Though the diversity of big game isn't like that in East Africa, there are still some prototypical African mammals to be seen, such as these African Elephants at Mole NP. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
PURPLE GLOSSY-STARLING (Lamprotornis purpureus) LONG-TAILED GLOSSY-STARLING (Lamprotornis caudatus)
CHESTNUT-BELLIED STARLING (Lamprotornis pulcher)
COPPER-TAILED GLOSSY-STARLING (Lamprotornis cupreocauda) [E]
VIOLET-BACKED STARLING (Cinnyricinclus leucogaster)
CHESTNUT-WINGED STARLING (Onychognathus fulgidus)
Buphagidae (Oxpeckers)
YELLOW-BILLED OXPECKER (Buphagus africanus)
Nectariniidae (Sunbirds and Spiderhunters)
SCARLET-TUFTED SUNBIRD (Deleornis fraseri)
MOUSE-BROWN SUNBIRD (Anthreptes gabonicus)
WESTERN VIOLET-BACKED SUNBIRD (NORTHERN) (Anthreptes longuemarei longuemarei)
LITTLE GREEN SUNBIRD (Anthreptes seimundi)
GREEN SUNBIRD (Anthreptes rectirostris)
COLLARED SUNBIRD (Hedydipna collaris)
PYGMY SUNBIRD (Hedydipna platura)
REICHENBACH'S SUNBIRD (Anabathmis reichenbachii)
GREEN-HEADED SUNBIRD (Cyanomitra verticalis)
BLUE-THROATED BROWN SUNBIRD (Cyanomitra cyanolaema)
WESTERN OLIVE SUNBIRD (Cyanomitra obscura)
BUFF-THROATED SUNBIRD (Chalcomitra adelberti)
CARMELITE SUNBIRD (Chalcomitra fuliginosa)
SCARLET-CHESTED SUNBIRD (Chalcomitra senegalensis)
OLIVE-BELLIED SUNBIRD (Cinnyris chloropygius)
TINY SUNBIRD (Cinnyris minullus)
BEAUTIFUL SUNBIRD (Cinnyris pulchellus)
SPLENDID SUNBIRD (Cinnyris coccinigastrus)
JOHANNA'S SUNBIRD (Cinnyris johannae)
SUPERB SUNBIRD (Cinnyris superbus)
COPPER SUNBIRD (Cinnyris cupreus)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
AFRICAN PIED WAGTAIL (Motacilla aguimp)
PLAIN-BACKED PIPIT (Anthus leucophrys zenkeri)
YELLOW-THROATED LONGCLAW (Macronyx croceus)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
CINNAMON-BREASTED BUNTING (Emberiza tahapisi)
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies)
WHITE-RUMPED SEEDEATER (Serinus leucopygius)
YELLOW-FRONTED CANARY (Serinus mozambicus)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
NORTHERN GRAY-HEADED SPARROW (Passer griseus)
BUSH PETRONIA (Petronia dentata)
Ploceidae (Weavers and Allies)
WHITE-BILLED BUFFALO-WEAVER (Bubalornis albirostris)
SPECKLE-FRONTED WEAVER (Sporopipes frontalis frontalis)
CHESTNUT-CROWNED SPARROW-WEAVER (Plocepasser superciliosus)
RED-VENTED MALIMBE (Malimbus scutatus)
GRAY'S MALIMBE (Malimbus nitens)
CRESTED MALIMBE (Malimbus malimbicus)
RED-HEADED MALIMBE (Malimbus rubricollis)
LITTLE WEAVER (Ploceus luteolus)
BLACK-NECKED WEAVER (Ploceus nigricollis brachypterus)
ORANGE WEAVER (Ploceus aurantius aurantius)
VIEILLOT'S WEAVER (Ploceus nigerrimus castaneofuscus)
VILLAGE WEAVER (BLACK-HEADED) (Ploceus cucullatus cucullatus)
BLACK-HEADED WEAVER (Ploceus melanocephalus capitalis)
YELLOW-MANTLED WEAVER (Ploceus tricolor)
MAXWELL'S BLACK WEAVER (Ploceus albinucha albinucha)
PREUSS'S WEAVER (Ploceus preussi)
RED-HEADED QUELEA (Quelea erythrops)
RED-BILLED QUELEA (Quelea quelea)
ORANGE BISHOP (Euplectes franciscanus)
BLACK-WINGED BISHOP (Euplectes hordeaceus)
YELLOW-CROWNED BISHOP (Euplectes afer afer)
YELLOW-SHOULDERED WIDOWBIRD (Euplectes macroura macroura)
GROSBEAK WEAVER (Amblyospiza albifrons capitalba)
Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies)
GRAY-HEADED NIGRITA (Nigrita canicapillus)
CHESTNUT-BREASTED NIGRITA (Nigrita bicolor)
WHITE-BREASTED NIGRITA (Nigrita fusconotus)
ORANGE-CHEEKED WAXBILL (Estrilda melpoda)
BLACK-RUMPED WAXBILL (Estrilda troglodytes)
WESTERN BLUEBILL (Spermophaga haematina) [E]
RED-CHEEKED CORDONBLEU (Uraeginthus bengalus)
RED-BILLED FIREFINCH (Lagonosticta senegala)
BAR-BREASTED FIREFINCH (Lagonosticta rufopicta)
AFRICAN FIREFINCH (Lagonosticta rubricata)
ZEBRA WAXBILL (Sporaeginthus subflavus)
BLACK-FACED QUAILFINCH (Ortygospiza atricollis atricollis)
BRONZE MANNIKIN (Spermestes cucullatus)
BLACK-AND-WHITE MANNIKIN (Spermestes bicolor)
MAGPIE MANNIKIN (Spermestes fringilloides)
Viduidae (Indigobirds)
PIN-TAILED WHYDAH (Vidua macroura)
PALE-WINGED INDIGOBIRD (Vidua wilsoni)
STRAW-COLORED FRUIT BAT (Eidolon helvum)
EPAULETED BAT SP. (Epomops franqueti)
POTTO (Perodicticus potto)
PRINCE DEMIDOFF'S BUSHBABY (Galago demidoff) [*]
MONA MONKEY (Cercopithecus mona)
GREEN MONKEY (Cercopithecus sabaeus)
PATAS MONKEY (Erythrocebus patas)
OLIVE BABOON (Papio anubis)
FOREST GIANT SQUIRREL (Protoxerus stangeri)
AFRICAN STRIPED SQUIRREL SP. (Funisciurus substriatus)
FIRE-FOOTED ROPE SQUIRREL (Funisciurus pyrrhopus) [*]
GAMBIAN SUN SQUIRREL (Heliosciurus gambianus)
RED-LEGGED SUN SQUIRREL (Heliosciurus rufobrachium)
SCALY-TAILED FLYING SQUIRREL SP. (Anomalurus peli)
GIANT POUCHED RAT (Cricetomys emini)
GAMBIAN MONGOOSE (Mungos gambianus)
AFRICAN ELEPHANT (Loxodonta africana)
TREE HYRAX SP. (Dendrohyrax dorsalis)
WARTHOG (Phacochoerus aethiopicus)
BUSHBUCK (Tragelaphus scriptus)
MAXWELL'S DUIKER (Cephalophus maxwelli)
DEFASSA WATERBUCK (Kobus defassa)
KOB (Kobus kob)
Quite a tour, the long drives, hot days and early mornings being compensated by some wonderful sightings. I will long remember James being mobbed by the market women at Tanaso and him saying they were worse than sweat bees, just great.
Bird highlights were of course the big two, the White-necked Picathartes and the Egyptian Plover, but there were many other excitements such as Long-tailed Hawk, Blue-bellied Roller, Red-billed and Black Dwarf Hornbill, White-crested Hornbill, Fraser's and Grayish Eagle Owl, unexpected Northern White-faced Owl at Kumasi, Stone Partridge, Forbes's Plover, and the mega skulking Rufous-winged illadopsis and Red-chested Wattle-eye plus that fantastic Green-tailed Bristlebill at Ankasa.
Mammals were more limited but Potto was again a brilliant find, Prince Demidoff's Bushbaby showed amazingly well, Pel's Anomalure was a big favourite, Gambian Mongoose was a lifer for all of us and who can resist African Elephants?
Other critters included Nile Crocodiles at Mole NP, Red-headed Agamas all over the place, and Nile Monitor at Ankasa.
This is a remarkably good tour for butterflies (Ghana has over 1000 species!) so it was good to have Andrew along to help with identifying many of them, and I include a summary of a few below- just be glad we don't do a butterfly checklist each night!
Mocker Swallowtail, Broad-banded Green Swallowtail, Narrow-banded Green Swallowtail, Apple Green Swallowtail, Citrus Swallowtail, Mimetic Swallowtail, Common Striped Swordtail, Long-tailed Striped Swordtail, African Emigrant, Common Grass Yellow, Forest Grass Yellow, Malagasy Grass Yellow, Small Grass Yellow, Blue Vagrant, Large Orange Tip, Tiny Orange Tip, Forest Caper White, Calypso Caper White, Common Dotted Border, Karsch's Dotted Border, Black-patch Hairstreak, Common Hairstreak, Forest Pied Pierrot, African Beak, Common Tiger, African Blue Tiger, Friar, Scarce Monk, Common Ringlet, Flame-bordered Charaxes, Common Red Charaxes, Common Blue Charaxes, Shining Red Charaxes, Common Green Charaxes, Small Flame-bordered Charaxes, Bush Charaxes, Peter's Demon Charaxes, Usher's Palla, African Leaf Buttterfly, Blue Diadem, Forest Mother-of-Pearl, Clouded Mother-of-Pearl, Soldier Pansy, Blue Pansy, African Map, Commmon Yellow Glider, Blood-red Glider (Atewa), Jodutta Gilder, Western Red Glider, Common Cub-dot Sailer, Common Pink Forester, Edward's Forester, Common Bemastistes, Common Leopard Fritillary, African Leopard Fritillary
Ashanti has a checklist of the Butterflies, which was very helpful, as was Torben Larsen's monumental "Butterflies of West Africa", and of course Andrew who has done lots of research on the local butterflies and has great knowledge.
Jenny had fun amassing a list of some of the bizarre or amusing names which are so frequent in Ghana, here is a selection:
Amazing Queen Wine and Gift Shop
Believer's Cleaning Centre
Be Nice Hotel
Big Brother's Drinking Spot
Divine Providence Cosmetic Shop
Dream High Engineering and Hardwares
Fantasy Breakfast Corner
Fear God Ventures
Fire Car and Carpet Wash
God is Good All the Time Fashion House
God is Great Beauty Salon
God's Power Fitting Shop
God Will Find a Way Super Market
Green Glory Motors
His Grace and Glory Co., Lt.
Immortal Electronics and Computers
In God Everything is Well Hair Clinic
It's the Lord Fitting Shop
Judge Not Enterprise
King of Glory Bakery Co. Ltd.
Meek and Mild Preparatory School
My Hands are Blessed Salon
My Dream Electronic Works Ltd.
Riches of Glory Guest House
o\On-on-Time Enterprise
Stomach Smile Café
The Dependable God Plumbing
The Lord is Good Coffin Workshop
The Lovely Drinking Bar
Thy Will Be Done Barbering Shop
Thy Will Secretarial Aid
Victory Jam Technology Ltd.
World Trade Center (on a tiny, roadside hardware store)
Yours Is Coming Barbering Shop
Phil can add B+ Computer Repairs (for the not really ambitious)
Heaven Gate No Bribe
Time and Chance (sticker on a car window, good motto for a bird tour!)
Sow in Tears and Reap in Joy Welding and Spraying
Repent Barbering Salon ( must be twinned with that one called "Laughter" in Hokkaido)
A persoanl favorite was Fokop Electrical at Bolgatanga, which i am sure is part of a worldwide conglomerate.
For the philiosopical, "Seul le silence est grand" on a huge truck bound for Burkina Faso.
Totals for the tour: 406 bird taxa and 23 mammal taxa