For our tour description, itinerary, past triplists, dates, fees, and more, please VISIT OUR TOUR PAGE.
See this triplist in printable PDF format with media only on page 1.
White-necked Rockfowl, or White-necked Picathartes, as it is commonly known, was the most-wanted bird and star of the tour, and it put on a fantastic show for us! (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
This was the sixth Field Guides Ghana tour and my seventh in total, and once again it proved very successful, albeit with long drives and lots of early mornings and late evenings in quite hot conditions. Our local operator's guides were again fantastic and worked very long hours with great good humor and marvelous field skills; James was once more our guide, and it is just so helpful to have the local knowledge he provides.
This year we had a day to explore Shai Hills, and we made a trip to Sakumono on arrival day, freeing up the next day for the long drive to Kakum. Violet Turaco, a fine Grayish Eagle-Owl, White-crowned Cliff-Chat (Mocking if you lump it), Vieillot's Barbet, and Blue-bellied Roller showed nicely, as did Splendid Sunbird, and Sakumono gave us a scattering of herons and shorebirds but again this year no Black Heron.
Winneba Plains gave us very good Guinea Turaco and Red-winged Prinia, but this year for the first time no Senegal Lapwing--maybe it was just too wet this time? Winneba Lagoon was unfortunately visited at low tide but still gave us Royal Terns and a few shorebirds.
Kakum is always interesting with that incredible rope walkway, but hornbills were very tough: we got 5 Brown-cheeked this trip but no sign of the two big casqued species at all. Other fine birds here in the general area were Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Rosy Bee-eater, Blue-throated Roller, Black-collared Lovebird, Cassin's Spinetail, Violet-backed Hyliota, and a great Brown Nightjar perched at dusk. Rock Pratincole (with a juvenile) and White-throated Blue Swallow were at the Pra River as usual, whilst a White-crowned Lapwing there was the first I'd seen here since 2009, and we saw the rare dark morph of Senegal Coucal plus Preuss's Swallow nearby. We also made a visit to the Stingless Bee research site at Abrafo late one morning, and we sampled some of their honey--apparently sweat bees are also honey bees it seems!
Sadly this year the road to Aboabo was too dire to attempt in the bus, so we birded some farm bush at Ebekawopa. Rufous-sided Broadbill showed well in forest nearby, and we were able to get a decent sighting of the ultra-elusive Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo also.
The innovation of camping in the forest at Ankasa in decent-sized tents with comfortable beds was well worth it and saved hours of commuting. Stars here were an amazing 17 Hartlaub's Ducks, African Pygmy-goose, White-bellied Kingfisher, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, African Dwarf Kingfisher, Blue-headed Wood-Dove, Swamp and Yellow-bearded greenbuls, plus Reichenbach's, Tiny, and Mouse-brown sunbirds. Hearing Nkulengu Rail calling long before dawn still raises hopes for next year...
The Picathartes this year was great: we waited about 90 minutes, then had an absolute stunner hop in and pose in great light on a rock for several minutes. I finally managed to get some reasonable photos at last, and we had another two come in just as we were leaving. These fossicked about on the mud nests on the cave wall with one actually sitting in a nest for a while, this being very hard to see in the dim light there.
The north was in good shape with more rainfall and greenery evident, and Mole NP was again quite green. We did well here with White-throated Francolin, Forbes's Plover, Standard-wing Nightjar, Pied Flycatchers, and Melodious Warbler. Black-faced Firefinch and Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver were other good finds, as was Lavender Waxbill, and Brown-rumped Bunting showed well. Rufous Cisticola was found again, as was Red-faced Lovebird and some unexpected sightings were Gray-headed Bush-Shrike, Yellow-bellied Hyliota and Phil's lifer West African Seedeater. Elephants were very nice this year with great views of 4 animals bathing and coming by the waterhole, whilst Olive Baboons, Tantalus, and Patas Monkeys proved diverting.
As we headed northwards, Nasia Pond was full of water and proved interesting on both the northwards and southwards journeys, with Black-necked (Black-backed) Cisticola, (Black-faced) Quailfinch, Zebra (Orange-breasted) Waxbill, Black-rumped Waxbill, African Silverbill, and a bonus of Cut-throat, my first in Ghana.
We made a late-afternoon stop at the Tongo Hills, nailing very nice Fox Kestrel, White-crowned (Mocking) Cliff-chat for some, and brief Rock-loving Cisticola as well as the now split Gosling's (Cinnamon-breasted) Bunting.
We changed our timing this year and went out to the White Volta on that rough road early morning, which proved excellent: Black-headed Lapwing, Four-banded Sandgrouse, White-billed Sparrow-Weaver, Speckle-fronted Weaver, a brief sighting of Rufous Scrub-Robin, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, and of course the star of the show, great looks at 4 Egyptian Plovers on a sandbar in the river. Tono Dam late afternoon that day gave Chestnut-bellied Starling, more Four-banded Sandgrouse, and the hoped for Spotted Thick-knee.
Bobiri Butterfly sanctuary was fairly quiet this year, but we saw very good Forest Woodhoopoe, both Red-billed and Black Dwarf hornbills, Black Cuckoo, Least Honeyguide, had a brief glimpse of Black-throated Coucal, and very nice Magpie Mannikin.
Atewa was the coda for late-afternoon and early-morning interludes, adding Blue-headed Coucal, Black-and-white (Vanga) Shrike-Flycatcher, Little Gray Greenbul, and at last a nice look at Western Nicator.
Favorite birds were many. Highlights of course were the incredible White-necked Picathartes, Egyptian Plover, Hartlaub's Duck, Blue-moustached Bee-eater, Blue-bellied Roller, White-throated Francolin and many amazing butterflies, a strong focus for several of the group and a nice dimension to include.
My thanks to Sharon at Field Guides HQ for good logistics and to our local operator for their excellent service. Local guide James was outstanding, and Appiah was a great driver over rough roads for long periods without mishap or complaint, whilst Andrew was very good as the waterman, bird and butterfly guide, and scope carrier. Thanks also to David & Judy for sharing their scope and to everyone for helping spot and get onto skulking things--we ended up with a good total and some marvelous sightings, and it was fun trip.
Safe travels, and I hope to bird with you all again ere too long.
--Phil in Dubai/Kuranda
Itinerary:
Sat 21/3/15 -- Arrival day for some, and birding at Sakumono that afternoon
Sun 22/3 -- Shai Hills
Mon 23/3 -- Tema-Winneba Plains / Winneba lagoon, roadside near Hans Botel / Rainforest Lodge
Tues 24/3 -- Kakum NP
Wed 25/3 -- Antwikwaa / Twifo Praso. Ebekawopa pm
Thurs 26/3 -- Abrafo Road am Takoradi / Ebi River / Ankasa
Fri 27/3 -- Ankasa NP
Sat 28/3 -- Ankasa River Trail / Pygmy Goose Pond / Ebi River / Brenu Beach / Rainforest Lodge
Sun 29/3 -- Ebekawopa farmbush. Assin Foso/Bankro / Kumasi
Mon 30/3 -- Kumasi / Kintampo / Mole NP
Tues 31/3 -- Mole NP Samole Loop and waterhole am. Pm Asibe loop
Wed 1/4 Mole Airstrip/Mognori R/ Samole loop pm
Thurs 2/4 Mole/ Yapei R/ Tamale/Nasia Pond/Tongo Hills. Bolgatanga
Fri 3/4 White Volta at Sapeliga; pm Tono Dam
Sat 4/4 Bolgatanga/Nasia Pond/ Kumasi (heavy rain!)
Sun 5/4 Bobiri am; pm Atewa farmbush
Mon 6/4 Atewa forest trail/ Accra and flights home
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BIRDS
This Egyptian Plover, a subadult calling to an adult nearby, gave us some wonderful views. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
Lavender Waxbills at Mole (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
The canopy walkway at Kakum (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
The bamboo "cathedral" at Ankasa (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
Woodland Kingfisher of the fuscopileus race (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
A village on the way to the White Volta, a typical Sahel scene (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
Rock Pratincole of the chestnut-collared liberiae race (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
The mosque at Larabanga (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
African Elephant bulls at Mole (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver at Mole (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
African Pygmy-goose at Ankasa (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
MAMMALS
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
This list covers some of the butterflies seen on our Ghana tour. They were identified mainly by Andrew, our local butterfly expert, and also by using Torben Larsen's excellent two volume book, "Butterflies of West Africa" (Apollo Books, 2005). The Ghana butterfly list is over 1000 species (many with wonderful names too, see below!), Bobiri alone has 423+, so this is a great tour if you like butterflies as well as birds. This list is based on my own notes and incorporates some from Bill Benner (a client on our 2012 tour), and is very far from complete. Tom and Kristine would have a far more extensive selection and indeed stayed on after the tour for more butterflies and some birding.

Papilionidae (Swallowtails)
MOCKER SWALLOWTAIL (Papilio dardanus)
BROAD-BANDED GREEN SWALLOWTAIL (Papilio chrapkowskoides)
WESTERN EMPEROR SWALLOWTAIL (Papilio horribilis)—This was the large swallowtail with the broad pale bands, Atewa.
NARROW BANDED GREEN SWALLOWTAIL (P. nireus)
COMMON WHITE BANDED SWALLOWTAIL (P. cypreofila)
CITRUS SWALLOWTAIL (Papilio demodecus)—Kakum
VEINED SWALLOWTAIL (Graphium leonidas)—First encountered at Ankasa.
WHITE LADY (Graphium angolanus baronis) Common at Mognori River in Mole.
ELECTRIC GREEN SWALLOWTAIL (G. tyderaeus) Seen by the guard post at Ankasa.
CREAM BANDED SWORDTAIL (G. illyris)
LONG-TAILED STRIPED SWORDTAIL (Graphium liponesco)
Pieridae (Whites and Sulphurs)
AFRICAN EMIGRANT (Catopsilia florella)—This common species is the only large, completely white butterfly in Ghana, and we saw it from Accra to Bolgatonga, though it was never numerous.
COMMON GRASS YELLOW (Eurema hecabe)—Another widespread species, this was the small, low-flying yellow with the black forewing tips.
ROUND-WINGED ORANGE TIP (Colotis euippe)—Seen our first full morning, at Shai Hills. Both John and I noted the orange forewing tips completely surrounded by black. (S)
TINY ORANGE TIP (Colotis evagore)—Seen at Mole.
CALYPSO CAPER WHITE (Belanois calypso)—One of the many beautiful butterflies at Bobiri. The underside is beautifully patterned.
AFRICAN SPIRIT (Leptosia alcesta)—A small white with black forewing spot, also at Bobiri.
Lycaenidae (Hairstreaks, Blues, Coppers, Liptenids, and Carnivorous Butterflies)
COMMON FALSE HEAD (Oxylides faunus)—One of a suite of small, whitish hairstreak species with fantastically long tails with the colorful local name of “Playboy”.
COMMON HAIRSTREAK (Hypolycaena philippus)—This “Playboy” was first photographed at the Winneba Grasslands, and then again at Mole, but we probably encountered it elsewhere as well. Without a photo, it was difficult to identify the “Playboys” to species in the field.
COMMON FAIRY HAIRSTREAK (Hypolycaena hatita)—A “Playboy” first encountered at Ankasa. Note that “common” seems to be a theme throughout this butterfly list. We joked throughout the trip about how many times we would ID a butterfly and go to read about it, always hoping for something rare and exciting, only to read some variation on, “the most common butterfly in Ghana”! Just like with the birds, common species are common, and they turn out to be the ones most likely to be seen on a regular basis.
WESTERN FAIRY PLAYBOY (Paradeudorix eleala)—This was the “Playboy” on the road at Bobiri, with the brilliant blue upperside.
COMMON CILIATE BLUE (Anthene larydas)—This was the extremely abundant blue that we saw everywhere, with the dark, scribbled-looking underside. There were hundreds flying along the track at Bobiri, for example. Occasionally we saw a male basking with wings open on a road, revealing gorgeous velvety purple upper wings.
LOWLAND BRANDED BLUE (Uranothauma falkensteini)—A small blue identified in a photo of one of the massive “puddle party” swarms along the roadside at Bobiri.
COMMON GINGER WHITE(Oboronia punctatus)—This wonderful little blue looks more like a white.
AFRICAN BABUL BLUE (Azanus jesous)—Another commonly encountered little blue, at several forest sites.
BLACK-BORDERED BABUL BLUE (A. moriqua)
AFRICAN BEAK (Libythea labdaca)—Probably the most abundant butterfly on our trip, at least in certain places. For example, most of the medium-sized butterflies that were swarming along the roads at Bobiri were this species, This species is both irruptive and at least somewhat migratory.
COMMON TIGER (Danaus chrysippus)—This common butterfly is the West African equivalent of our Monarch. Seen in most places, most days, though never in large numbers.
UNIFORM BUSH BROWN (Bicyclus uniformis)—This common species was seen in multiple spots, except open savannah.
FLAME-BORDERED CHARAXES (Charaxes protoclea)
BAMBOO CHARAXES (C. boueti) Feeds on bamboo like many of this genus.
WESTERN RED CHARAXES (Charaxes cynthia)
Blue-patch Charxes (C. lactetinctus)
BLUE-SPOTTED CHARAXEX (C. ameliae)
PETER'S DEMON CHARAXES( C. petersi)
USSHER’S PALLA (Palla ussheri)—Seen and photographed at Ankasa.
FOREST ADMIRAL (Antanartia delius)
GAUDY COMMODORE (Precis octavia)
COMMON COMMODORE (Precis ceryne)
VARIABLE EGGFLY (Hypolimnas antedon)
DIADEM or FALSE TIGER (Hypolimnas misippus)—One of the most widely distributed butterflies in the world, this species is a mimic of the Common Tiger (Danaus chrysippus), much as the Viceroy imitates the Monarch in North America. In most of the Common Tiger’s range, however, it has orange hindwings, but in West Africa, the hindwings are white. The False Tiger retains the orange hindwings, however, so in Ghana, it’s not such a great mimic. Common on our first day in the Shai Hills.
BLUE DIADEM (Hypolimnas salmacis)—A large, beautiful butterfly seen in multiple locations.
LILAC BEAUTY (Salamis cacta)—Another large, handsome butterfly, encountered multiple times during our last couple of days at Bobiri and the Atewa Hills. Larsen considers the Atewa Hills the richest area of butterfly diversity in Ghana.
WESTERN BLUE BEAUTY (Salamis cytora)—This gorgeous butterfly was also seen elsewhere. I think several folks got to enjoy the beautiful shading from purple to orange on the upper forewing.
AFRICAN BLUE TIGER (Tirumala petiverana)—In contrast to most of the butterflies we encountered, this danaid is actually more likely in the savannah, though we found it at Antwikwaa.
FOREST MOTHER-OF-PEARL (Protogoniomorpha parhassus)—I think this butterfly wins the longest name contest. It is another spectacular species that we saw multiple times. This is the large, whitish butterfly with the angular wings that would perch up about eye-level or above along the forest trails. Larsen says that wrapping a white handkerchief around a pebble and tossing it up in the air can lure them down to investigate.
DARK BLUE PANSY (Junonia oenone)—I think everyone got a look at this handsome butterfly with the bold purplish blue patches in the hindwing that perched for us in multiple roadside locales. This genus of butterflies is closely related to our Buckeyes.
YELLOW PANSY (Junonia hierta)—A butterfly of the Guinea savannah. Some of you may have noticed this butterfly flying around low to the ground as we wandered the bush at Mole; its pale tan underside blended with the savannah when its wings were closed, but when it landed with wings open, the bright orange and yellow patches were very pretty.
LITTLE COMMODORE (Junonia sophia)—Seen and photographed at Antikwaa, and also at Ankasa.
BROWN PANSY (Junonia stygia)—Another of the fascinating collection of butterflies at Bobiri.
SOLDIER PANSY (Junonia terea)—Per Larsen, “one of the most common and widespread African butterflies.” We certainly encountered it at many sites, everywhere except in the far north, and it accompanied us on many trails.
AFRICAN MAP BUTTERFLY (Cyrestis camillus)—This medium to largish butterfly strongly resembles our Zebra Swallowtail, but is a nymphalid, not a swallowtail. The only map butterfly in Africa; the genus is more diverse in the Orient. Seen our last couple of days at Bobiri (where it was common) and the Atewa Hills.
AFRICAN JOKER (Byblia anvatara)—Another widespread African butterfly, photographed at Kakum.
COMMON YELLOW GLIDER (Cymothoe egesta)—The big, bold butterflies in the genus Cymothoe are widespread and diverse in Ghana. We undoubtedly encountered others that I failed to identify. This species was photographed at Kakum
COMMON GLIDER (Cymothoe caenis)—Seen beautifully at Bobiri, this large glider is mostly white, with black penciling near the wing margins.
JODUTTA GLIDER (Cymothoe jodutta)—Another species restricted to forest, seen at Ankasa.
COMMON RED GLIDER (Cymothoe coccinata)—This is the medium sized all-red butterfly that Phil was excited to see again in the Atewa Hills. Quite wary, and difficult to get a good photograph, so my ID is slightly tentative, but this is the most common Red Glider and the one most likely to be expected. A gorgeous butterfly.
BLOOD RED GLIDER (C. sangaris) I think this was the red butterfly at the Picathartes site
COMMON FALSE ACRAEA (Pseudacraea eurytus)
The Sailers (NEMETES) are a large genus of almost identical-appearing black-and-white butterflies with elongated heliconia-like wings that sail along and then land with spread wings on leaf tips along the trails— hence, “sailer”, not “sailor”. It was impossible to identify them without a photo, and even then, ID’s involved lots of sorting through 39 different species!
REGULAR CLUB-DOT SAILER (Neptis trigonophora)
COMMON PATHFINDER (Catuna crithea)—There are four species of Pathfinders in Ghana; they are the marbled-looking brown and cream butterflies that fly low along the ground up and down the forested paths, and we saw them commonly. It requires a photo to ID them, at least for me.
GUINEAFOWL (Hamanumida daedalus)—This delightful butterfly looks just like its name! spangled all over with small white spots. I saw it amongst the crowd of butterflies from the bridge overlooking the Mognori River during our morning stop there, and managed to get a couple of photos.
BRILLIANT NYMPH (Cynandra opis) The metallic blue one from Ankasa
FOREST GLADE NYMPH (Aterica galena)—Multiple individuals seen of this medium sized dark butterfly with the large white wing spots, at Bobiri.
COMMON NYMPH (Euriphene barombina)
SIMPLE NYMPH (E. simplex)
COMMON PALM FORESTER (Bebearia cocalia)—Seen at Ankasa. Palms are its host plant.
WIDESPREAD FORESTER (Euphaedra medon)
COMMON PINK FORESTER (E. hewitsoni) Bobiri
COMMON BLUE-BANDED FORESTER (Euphaedra harpalyce)—This is one of the more widespread of the genus.
LARGE SPOTTED ACRAEA (Acraea zetes)—This is the largest genus of African butterflies, and about 60 species live in West Africa, though their center of diversity and radiation is in East Africa. All are toxic, containing cyanide chemicals, and they often act as models for various mimetic species. They are closely related to the Heliconias of the Neotropics. This species was the one we saw commonly (some even copulating) in the Shai Hills on our first full day of birding.
COMMON LEOPARD FRITILLARY (Phalanta phalanta)—This is a savannah butterfly, supposedly somewhat common.
Hesperidae (Skippers)
STRIPED POLICEMAN (Coeliades forestan)—This large dark skipper with the big white spot in the hindwing, that looked so much like our Silver-spotted Skipper, is apparently one of the most widespread butterflies in West Africa.
TWO PIP POLICEMAN (C. pisistratus)
WESTERN BLUE POLICEMAN (Pyrrhiades lucagus) Shai Hills
AFRICAN GIANT SKIPPER (Pyrrhochalcia iphis) Shai Hills and Kakum, a huge great dark skipper!
CLOUDED FLAT (Tagiades flesus)—Seen and photographed at Antikwaa. This is a spread-winged skipper. Skippers in general seemed very scarce on this trip, and maybe they are not as common in West Africa in general. It is the nymphalids that seem to have radiated wildly in Ghana, versus the large hesperid radiation we have in the eastern U.S.
COMMON PATHFINDER SKIPPER (Pardaleodes edipus)—“The most common skipper in the West African forest zone”, says Larsen.
Some of the trip photos are posted on the Internet Bird Collection (IBC), a free access site from Lynx Edicions, publishers of the classic Handbook of the Birds of the World and now the website Birds Alive. It is a superb collection of videos, photos and sound cuts and I usually post items from my tours here, as well as on the Field Guides photogallery.
PLANTS
The curious spiky rounded tennis ball size scented flower from one of the savanna trees is Naucleya latifolia, apparently much liked by sunbirds and fruit bats.
A strange wild arum type plant was by the Mognori river, just coming into the odd kind of flower, and some lovely fireball lillies were nearby.
Recommendations
I recommend the xenocanto (XC) website which is a fantastic archive of bird sounds of most of the species in the world, freely downloadbable. I usually publish significant cuts from my tours here as it is a valuable research tool for anyone interested.
The Internet Bird Collection (IBC) run by Lynx Edicions (of Handbook of Birds of the World) is another wonderful free access site, you just have to register, and can then view thousands of videos, photos and sound recordings, with many of them from my tours. Again, it is an invaluable research site.
Some folks also asked about the IOC World Checklist of Birds, a free access downloadable Excel file of all the world's species which is updated every 4 months or so. This is the one I use for my own checklists as it is the most current and has a progressive outlook on taxonomy and names. You can find them at worldbirdnames.org or google IOC (but NOT the olympics stuff!)
Totals for the tour: 407 bird taxa and 24 mammal taxa