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The monotypic Kagu of New Caledonia is most closely related to another monotypic bird, the Sunbittern of Central and South America; the striking wing pattern of this bird certainly suggests a close relationship between these two species. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
The Field Guides 2013 South Pacific Tour began with another fine trip to New Caledonia, with good weather throughout and Air Calédonie behaving itself for once and actually leaving slightly early on a couple of flights! The park at Rivière Bleue was having problems with a washed out road and the transport there proved problematic, but it all worked out eventually even if we did do some unexpected hiking initially.
The ancient monotypic family, Kagu, was great, showing really well, with 4+ birds the first day and lovely sightings of 7 on the second day. The gray ghost of the forest was again outright winner for bird of the trip. However, not to be outdone were Cloven-feathered Dove, seen really well at Farino, and which really is one of the world's great doves, and the huge New Caledonian (or Goliath) Imperial-Pigeon, which is also seriously impressive and remarkably scarce this trip. New Caledonian Crow showed very well, as did both the main island parakeets (New Caledonian and Horned), and the Ouvea (Horned) Parakeet was terrific, with a nest hole nearby. White-bellied (Blue or New Caledonia) Goshawk was great perched at Mont Koghis and seen again at Farino later. Luckiest find of the trip here was getting lovely looks at the rare Crow Honeyeater, we simply walked into where one was on the way out on day 2. I heard it call once and we found it about 4 minutes later. We nailed all the endemics except the darn grassbird, the same story as usual, and it was a fun trip with a fascinating and unique combination of bustling metro-France and laidback Kanak culture.
Vanuatu is a relatively new destination for us, this being just the third Field Guides tour here, but we had a very good time and really enjoyed the relaxed lifestyle. The flight schedules left us with a 6-hour layover in Port Vila, so I again hired a van at the airport, and we had an exploration of the town- we saw one of the huge P & O cruise ships in port and had a look at the market, ate lunch at a nice little local cafe, and did some birding up in the hills beyond the waterfall where we found Tanna Fruit Dove and the Vanuatu White-eye as our first endemics, and had my first Vanuatu Peregrine with a pair flying over.
A night time arrival is always fraught and d'accord our rooming arrangements on Santo had to be sorted out, but we then had a couple of fine outings to Loru Conservation Area nearby, with a very nice local guide in Carl (or Cal?). The elusive Vanuatu (Chestnut-bellied) Kingfisher was seen well, as was the striking Buff-bellied Monarch, but Vanuatu Scrubfowl was tough and only some of us saw 3 birds flush up off the track in the plantation.
On next to Fiji, starting on Viti Levu with excellent Fiji Parrotfinch at Nausori Airport, then Masked Shining-Parrot and Giant Forest Honeyeater right at Raintree Lodge. A short walk got us Pacific Robin and Blue-crested Flycatcher, plus Fiji Whistler, whilst next day we put in some effort and finally got a fine male Golden Dove calling. Suva waterfront gave us Wandering and a single Gray-tailed Tattler, plus Lesser Frigatebird robbing Crested Terns. A trip out along Namosi Road was hot and then hit a shower but we still got Fiji Shrikebill, and a very brief snatch of calling led me to go do a late lunch then come back late afternoon for a crack at the rare and elusive Black-throated Shrikebill, which amazingly proved very responsive and sat out for scope views of a calling male, the cut now downloaded to Xeno-canto. Excellent.
Delightful Taveuni was next, where Garden Island Resort was very nice, and folks enjoyed the luxurious rooms with a nearby noisy and very long-established colony of flying-foxes. A visit to the nearby 180 degree meridian was fun, it's even got a new sign this year, with Maroon (Red) Shining-Parrot for good measure and the unusual crepuscular Evening Brown Butterfly.
Naturally our morning up Des Voeux Peak was cloudy and humid, but a two-hour vigil cum scramble in the dense forest habitat eventually got Silktail quite nicely for everyone. This is anticipated to become a new family (along with Pygmy Drongo from New Guinea!) so is even more significant than usual on this trip.
The afternoon at Nabogiono Farm produced the unbelievable sunburst Orange Dove and striking oddly-patterned Many-coloured Fruit-Dove, also Polynesian Starling and a nest hole with a chick of Maroon Shining-Parrot. The boat trip back in the later afternoon was very calm this year and seabird activity was sparse, but we did get nice looks at a fishing flock of Red-footed and Brown Boobies at very close range.
Kadavu is a neat addition to this tour and the small Polynesian style Matana Beach Resort was very laid back and pleasant. We had the often elusive Whistling (Velvet) Dove as our first Kadavu endemic with one seen from the boat as we came in, along with a Red Shining-Parrot, but it took a while to get a scope view of a calling Whistling Dove later. Kadavu Honeyeater was obliging here, whilst Red Shining-Parrot and Kadavu Fantail, plus the endemic White-throated Whistler, were basically only heard on our walk, though Eva gripped us off by seeing all 3 and most folks got the parrots nicely in flight later!
This was a fun trip with a friendly group, run at a relaxed pace and with some great birds, a terrific intro to South Pacific birding and the much slower pace of life here. My thanks to Karen at Field Guides for grappling with frequent and complex flight variations, to Kenneth and Carl on Santo, Vido on Viti Levu, Boro, Bobby and Wani on Taveuni, and Ben and Ally on Kadavu for their help with birding.
Why not join us for a fun trip in 2014? It's a laid back tour and has some great birds and countries, you can expect 60+ new birds including some very odd and unusual ancient families.
Vinaka vaka levu -thank you very much in Fijian!
--Phil
[Note: There are several interesting audio clips embedded in this triplist. They are all by Phil though uploaded via Jay's SoundCloud account, thus his name above each clip.]
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BIRDS
An adult Red-footed Booby on the water of the Somosomo Strait off between the Fijian islands of Viti Levu and Taveuni. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
There are a good number of doves and pigeons that are endemic to these island groups, including this Peale's Imperial-Pigeon from Fiji. Locally it is also known as the Barking Pigeon; to hear why, listen to the audio clip below. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
Another one of the specialty doves of the region, a Many-colored Fruit-Dove, soaks up the early morning Fijian sun. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
What else would you call this bird but Orange Dove? This wonderful Fijian endemic is always a favorite, though it doesn't sound much like a dove. Listen below for its odd clicking call. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
Collared Kingfisher is a widespread bird in the South Pacific islands, but a taxonomic revision of this species will likely reveal that more than one species currently makes up this complex. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
The day begins here! Our happy group straddles the International Date Line in Fiji. (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
MAMMALS
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Birds of the trip were the wonderful Kagu, Silktail, Cloven-feathered Dove, Orange Dove, Red Shining-Parrot, Pacific Robin and Buff-bellied Monarch.
It was also a trip for memorable bird vocalizations, remember the barker, yapper, squeaker, beeper, Ambulance bird, Halloween bird and clicker? A list of what they were is given at the very end.....
Banded Green Iguana Brachylophus bulabula- a beautiful green female was at Matana Dive Resort, amazingly well-camouflaged and moving slowly like a chameleon. It is a critically endangered species, described quite recently and a mega for herp-twitchers.
Butterflies
How I wish New Caledonia and Vanuatu had butterfly guides, the latter in particular had over a dozen species. We did see the endemic blue swallowtail Papilio montrouzieri on New Caledonia and Monarch Butterflies are quite well-established on all the islands.
Fiji now has Butterflies of the South Pacific by B & H Patrick (2012 Otago Uni Press) and I was able to identify the following:
Fiji Swallowtail Papilio schmeltzi at Colo-i-Suva
Lemon Migrant Catopsilia pomona Kadavu
Common Sulphur Eurema hecabe Des Voeux Peak
Common Crow Euploea lewinii all 3 Fiji islands
Fiji Crow Euploea leucostictus Kadavu
Evening Brown Melanitis leda Taveuni
Common Fijian ringlet Xois sesara Colo-i-Suva and Kadavu
Pacific Orange Leafwing Butterfly Doleschallia tongana Kadavu
Blue Moon Hypolimnas bolina Viti Levu and Taveuni
Meadow Argus Junonia villida Taveuni
Fijian Blue Jamides candrena Kadavu
Answers to bird vocals- Peale's Imperial Pigeon, Golden Dove, Long-tailed Triller, Polynesian Triller, Giant Forest Honeyeater (Viti Levu), Black-throated Shrikebill and Orange Dove.
Most of these are now posted on xeno-canto.
Totals for the tour: 148 bird taxa and 2 mammal taxa