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Any time we see Hypocolius, it's the star of the show, and this tour was no different! (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
This was the fifth Field Guides trip to Arabia (and my eighth), and it was an exciting and varied experience as always, beginning in the rather astonishing city of Dubai where we covered a number of desert sites, then going to even more amazing Abu Dhabi with its extraordinary architecture and Hypocolius roost, and then out to the huge oasis at Al Ain and the bleak beauty of Jebel Hafeet. Exciting birds were many and highlights included Spotted Eagle, Crab Plover, Great Knot, Desert, Isabelline, Hume's, Hooded, Variable and Red-tailed wheatears, a wintering Eversmann's (Rufous-backed) Redstart, Black-throated Thrush, Plain Leaf-Warbler, and a day-roosting Striated Scops Owl.
A new desert park at Bab al Shams gave an Eastern Imperial Eagle that had been ringed in Tajikistan that summer, Pallid Harrier, Bimaculated and Hoopoe-lark, Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark, and both Pin-tailed and Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse. Outstanding mammals here included a surprise find of Arabian Oryx, now reintroduced here and still one of the world's rarest mammals, and some very nice Mountain Gazelle.
A foray into the Omani exclave of Buraimi was rewarding albeit bureaucratic as we had to detour to pick up entry and exit visas, but that gave us a bonus Griffon Vulture, and the hanging gardens area at Jebel Qatar gave great Arabian Babblers, Red-tailed and Hume's wheatears, and Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse, the latter a species we rarely see on this tour.
The historic and graceful city of Muscat was a nice cultural experience, with visits to the ancient souk at night and then to Nizwa on market day, plus a trip up spectacular Jebel Akhdar which gave us Lappet-faced Vulture and the only Menetries's Warblers of the trip, whilst Al Ansab Dam gave a surprise Long-toed Stint, though the main site was unfortunately closed for the weekend!
Dhofar Governate is always a highlight in the far south of Oman and with much more African feel to it, and here we did well with Arabian Partridge, Arabian Warbler, Arabian Wheatear, Arabian Golden-winged Grosbeak for those who went early, the newly split Arabian Scops Owl (albeit briefly!), and Yemen Serin at its only known site outside of Yemen. Three species of sea turtle off the spectacular sea cliffs near Mirbat included a huge Leatherback, and Ras Mirbat gave us Masked and Brown boobies and Socotra Cormorant. A trip to the rather dusty and unappealing Raysut dump gave us about 60 Steppe Eagles, plus the bizarre sight of 380 White Storks loafing about and no doubt feeding from the garbage, a far cry from the lovely Black Storks we had seen earlier at Khor Rauri.
The deep desert oasis at Qitbit was overrun with roadworkers building a new highway and making a huge mess, but the birding in the grounds of the Guesthouse was excellent -- Hypocolius, Black-throated Thrush and a vagrant Dusky Thrush, Nile Valley Sunbird, Bluethroat, Yellow-browed and Eastern Orphean warblers, Yellow-throated Petronia, and a surprise Golden Eagle. Spotted Sandgrouse flying in and calling at the Muntasar oasis were a great spectacle too.
My thanks to Rob at Muscat Dive for his good company, driving, and assistance, he has the makings of a good birder (but his GPS skills could do with some attention!); Sharon at FG HQ did a great job setting it all up, and my thanks to the UAE guides Steve James, Neil Tovey, and Mark Smiles (who took me round pre-trip). Thanks to Bill for sharing his scope (and his iPad recording of Scrub Warbler) and to both the Byers for their help with navigation at certain sites, and our condolences to them for their tragic loss, which we heard about just after the trip ended, a very sad ending.
I hope to travel with you all again at some point and thanks for coming on our memorable Arabian adventure.
--Phil
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)

Camels at Muntasar Oasis in Oman, by participant Charlotte Byers
GRAYLAG GOOSE (SIBERIAN) (Anser anser rubrirostris) EGYPTIAN GOOSE (Alopochen aegyptiaca) [I]
COTTON PYGMY-GOOSE (Nettapus coromandelianus)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)
GARGANEY (Anas querquedula)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)
COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)
FERRUGINOUS DUCK (Aythya nyroca)
TUFTED DUCK (Aythya fuligula)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
CHUKAR (Alectoris chukar) [I]
ARABIAN PARTRIDGE (Alectoris melanocephala) [E]
GRAY FRANCOLIN (Francolinus pondicerianus)
SAND PARTRIDGE (Ammoperdix heyi)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis)
Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)
GREATER FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus roseus)
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)

Pallid Scops-Owl on a dayroost at Al Ain, by guide Phil Gregory
PERSIAN SHEARWATER (Puffinus persicus) [E] Ciconiidae (Storks)
BLACK STORK (Ciconia nigra)
WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)
Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets)
MASKED BOOBY (Sula dactylatra)
BROWN BOOBY (Sula leucogaster)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
SOCOTRA CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax nigrogularis)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
INTERMEDIATE EGRET (Mesophoyx intermedia)
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
WESTERN REEF-HERON (Egretta gularis)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)
INDIAN POND-HERON (Ardeola grayii)
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
EURASIAN SPOONBILL (Platalea leucorodia)
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
EGYPTIAN VULTURE (Neophron percnopterus)
ORIENTAL HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis ptilorhynchus)

A Red-vented Bulbul spices up the hotel gardens in Dubai. (Photo by participant Charlotte Byers)
LAPPET-FACED VULTURE (Torgos tracheliotus) EURASIAN GRIFFON (Gyps fulvus)
SHORT-TOED EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)
GREATER SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga clanga)
BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus)
STEPPE EAGLE (Aquila nipalensis)
IMPERIAL EAGLE (Aquila heliaca)
GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos homeyeri)
BONELLI'S EAGLE (Aquila fasciata)
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
PALLID HARRIER (Circus macrourus)
MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)
LONG-LEGGED BUZZARD (Buteo rufinus)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
PURPLE SWAMPHEN (Porphyrio porphyrio)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
RED-WATTLED LAPWING (Vanellus indicus)
BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola)
LESSER SAND-PLOVER (Charadrius mongolus)
GREATER SAND-PLOVER (Charadrius leschenaultii)
KENTISH PLOVER (KENTISH) (Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus)

Our group in Jebel Qatar, Oman, by participant Charlotte Byers
COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula) LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius)
Dromadidae (Crab Plover)
CRAB PLOVER (Dromas ardeola)
Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
EURASIAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus ostralegus)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
TEREK SANDPIPER (Xenus cinereus)
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
GREEN SANDPIPER (Tringa ochropus)
SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus)
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
MARSH SANDPIPER (Tringa stagnatilis)
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
BLACK-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa limosa)
BAR-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa lapponica)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
GREAT KNOT (Calidris tenuirostris)
LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)
TEMMINCK'S STINT (Calidris temminckii)
LONG-TOED STINT (Calidris subminuta)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
RUFF (Philomachus pugnax)
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago)
RED-NECKED PHALAROPE (Phalaropus lobatus)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
SLENDER-BILLED GULL (Chroicocephalus genei)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)

Sooty Gull at Ras Mirbat, by participant Charlotte Byers
SOOTY GULL (Ichthyaetus hemprichii) PALLAS'S GULL (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus)
CASPIAN GULL (Larus cachinnans)
LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL (HEUGLIN'S) (Larus fuscus heuglini)
SAUNDERS'S TERN (Sternula saundersi)
GULL-BILLED TERN (Gelochelidon nilotica)
CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
WHITE-CHEEKED TERN (Sterna repressa) [E]
GREAT CRESTED TERN (Thalasseus bergii)
SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
LESSER CRESTED TERN (Thalasseus bengalensis)
Pteroclidae (Sandgrouse)
PIN-TAILED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles alchata) [I]
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles exustus)
SPOTTED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles senegallus)
LICHTENSTEIN'S SANDGROUSE (Pterocles lichtensteinii)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
LAUGHING DOVE (Streptopelia senegalensis)
BRUCE'S GREEN-PIGEON (Treron waalia)
Strigidae (Owls)
PALLID SCOPS-OWL (Otus brucei)
AFRICAN SCOPS-OWL (AFRICAN) (Otus senegalensis pamelae) [E]

Village on Jebel Akhdar, Oman, by participant Charlotte Byers
HUME'S OWL (Strix butleri) [E*] Apodidae (Swifts)
PALLID SWIFT (Apus pallidus)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)
Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
GREEN BEE-EATER (Merops orientalis)
Coraciidae (Rollers)
INDIAN ROLLER (Coracias benghalensis)
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
Psittacidae (Parrots)
ROSE-RINGED PARAKEET (Psittacula krameri) [I]
Malaconotidae (Bushshrikes and Allies)
BLACK-CROWNED TCHAGRA (Tchagra senegalus percivali)
Laniidae (Shrikes)

White-cheeked Bulbuls watching for traffic violations... (Photo by guide Phil Gregory)
RUFOUS-TAILED SHRIKE (DAURIAN) (Lanius isabellinus isabellinus) SOUTHERN GRAY SHRIKE (SOUTHERN) (Lanius meridionalis aucheri)
Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers)
AFRICAN PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (Terpsiphone viridis)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
HOUSE CROW (Corvus splendens) [I]
BROWN-NECKED RAVEN (Corvus ruficollis)
FAN-TAILED RAVEN (Corvus rhipidurus)
Alaudidae (Larks)
SINGING BUSHLARK (Mirafra cantillans)
GREATER HOOPOE-LARK (Alaemon alaudipes)
BLACK-CROWNED SPARROW-LARK (Eremopterix nigriceps)
DESERT LARK (Ammomanes deserti)
BIMACULATED LARK (Melanocorypha bimaculata)
CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)
SKY LARK (Alauda arvensis)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
ROCK MARTIN (PALE CRAG-MARTIN) (Ptyonoprogne fuligula obsoleta)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)
Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)
RED-VENTED BULBUL (Pycnonotus cafer) [I]
WHITE-SPECTACLED BULBUL (Pycnonotus xanthopygos) [E]
WHITE-EARED BULBUL (Pycnonotus leucotis) [I]
Phylloscopidae (Leaf-Warblers)
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (SCANDINAVIAN) (Phylloscopus collybita abietinus)
PLAIN LEAF-WARBLER (Phylloscopus neglectus)
YELLOW-BROWED WARBLER (Phylloscopus inornatus)
Acrocephalidae (Reed-Warblers and Allies)
CLAMOROUS REED-WARBLER (INDIAN) (Acrocephalus stentoreus brunnescens)
Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)

Camel Heads, Jebel Qatar, by participant Charlotte Byers
GRACEFUL PRINIA (Prinia gracilis) Sylviidae (Sylviids, Parrotbills and Allies)
SMALL WHITETHROAT (Sylvia minula) [E]
EASTERN ORPHEAN WARBLER (Sylvia crassirostris)
ASIAN DESERT WARBLER (Sylvia nana)
LESSER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia curruca)
RED SEA WARBLER (Sylvia leucomelaena) [E]
MENETRIES'S WARBLER (Sylvia mystacea) [E]
Zosteropidae (Yuhinas, White-eyes, and Allies)
WHITE-BREASTED WHITE-EYE (Zosterops abyssinicus)
Leiothrichidae (Laughingthrushes)
ARABIAN BABBLER (Turdoides squamiceps) [E]
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
BLUETHROAT (Luscinia svecica)
RED-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula parva)
RUFOUS-BACKED REDSTART (Phoenicurus erythronotus)
BLACK REDSTART (EASTERN) (Phoenicurus ochruros semirufus)
BLUE ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola solitarius)
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola rubicola)
SIBERIAN STONECHAT (SIBERIAN) (Saxicola maurus maurus)
BLACKSTART (Cercomela melanura)
HOODED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe monacha)
HUME'S WHEATEAR (Oenanthe albonigra)

Al Ain oasis, by guide Phil Gregory
MOURNING WHEATEAR (ARABIAN) (Oenanthe lugens lugentoides) [E] VARIABLE WHEATEAR (Oenanthe picata)
RED-TAILED WHEATEAR (RED-TAILED) (Oenanthe xanthoprymna chrysopygia) [E]
DESERT WHEATEAR (Oenanthe deserti)
ISABELLINE WHEATEAR (Oenanthe isabellina)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
BLACK-THROATED THRUSH (Turdus atrogularis)
DUSKY THRUSH (Turdus eunomus)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
BANK MYNA (Acridotheres ginginianus) [I]
COMMON MYNA (Acridotheres tristis) [I]
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
TRISTRAM'S STARLING (Onychognathus tristramii) [E]
Nectariniidae (Sunbirds and Spiderhunters)
NILE VALLEY SUNBIRD (Hedydipna metallica)
PALESTINE SUNBIRD (Cinnyris osea) [E]
SHINING SUNBIRD (Cinnyris habessinicus)
PURPLE SUNBIRD (Cinnyris asiaticus)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla flava)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (BLUE-HEADED) (Motacilla flava flava)
CITRINE WAGTAIL (Motacilla citreola)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)

Camel taking a ride in Oman, and apparently ready for any dust! (Photo by participant Charlotte Byers)
WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba) WHITE WAGTAIL (MASKED) (Motacilla alba personata)
RICHARD'S PIPIT (Anthus richardi)
BLYTH'S PIPIT (Anthus godlewskii)
TAWNY PIPIT (Anthus campestris)
RED-THROATED PIPIT (Anthus cervinus)
WATER PIPIT (Anthus spinoletta)
AMERICAN PIPIT (SIBERIAN) (Anthus rubescens japonicus)
Hypocoliidae (Hypocolius)
HYPOCOLIUS (Hypocolius ampelinus) [E]
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
STRIOLATED BUNTING (Emberiza striolata striolata)
CINNAMON-BREASTED BUNTING (Emberiza tahapisi)
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies)
YEMEN SERIN (Serinus menachensis) [E]
GOLDEN-WINGED GROSBEAK (ARABIAN) (Rhynchostruthus socotranus percivali) [E]
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus hufufae)
CHESTNUT-SHOULDERED PETRONIA (Petronia xanthocollis)
Ploceidae (Weavers and Allies)
RUEPPELL'S WEAVER (Ploceus galbula)
Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies)
INDIAN SILVERBILL (Euodice malabarica)
AFRICAN SILVERBILL (Euodice cantans)
NUTMEG MANNIKIN (Lonchura punctulata) [I]
INDO-PACIFIC BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN (Tursiops aduncus)
SPINNER DOLPHIN (Stenella longirostris)
ARABIAN ORYX (Oryx leucoryx) [I]
MOUNTAIN GAZELLE (Gazella gazella)
Whilst watching from the clifftops just south of Mirbat on Jan 21, we saw at least 4 turtles which I think consisted of 3 species:
--Leathery Turtle (Dermochelys coriacea) -- This was the huge one that was near the size of a Volkswagen, swimming about over the seaweed beds. I think there were two animals, a huge one and a merely large one. They eat mainly jellyfish, and plastic bags and balloons are a major threat to their survival as they get ingested and then cause blockages. They are in their own monotypic family too, the Dermochelyidae.
--Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata) -- One of these with the serrated end to the shell and tortoiseshell pattern was also off the seagrass beds.
--Loggerhead Turtle (Caretta caretta) -- I think the rather plain looking turtle with the more rounded shell here was likely to be this species, which has a big colony on Masirah Island not too far away.
A small viper under some plywood at Khor Beida was either Horned Viper or Sand Viper, a nicely patterned animal.
Two large eagle rays with white undersides to their flippers also came inshore at the clifftop site near Mirbat, they are from the family Myliobatidae.
A falcon at the pivot fields had jesses on and looked to be some sort of Peregrine type, but they have hybridised in captivity extensively out here and quite what is what is often problematic. Falcons are big business, one in Kuwait early this year sold for $20,000 so it is no wonder we now so rarely see Barbary Falcon, and Saker has vanished.
Favourite birds were many and varied, but obviously Hypocolius came out on top, followed by Spotted Sandgrouse flighting in and calling so nicely at Muntasar, the amazing Striated Scops Owl that showed so well, then a diverse range from Chukar (Ellen) to Eversmann's Redstart plus those White Storks at Raysut tip and the wonderful Crab Plovers at Umm al Quwain.
The Arabian Oryx sighting also ranked very high, such a beautiful and rare creature.
Totals for the tour: 204 bird taxa and 4 mammal taxa