Even with the modern restrictions that have been placed on visitors to the ruins of Machu Picchu (=MaPi from here on…), the place still commands awe. You have to hand it to them Inca: what an incredibly picturesque place to stick some ruins! The Inca also managed to improve our lives with some really important foods (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, among others), so it is only fair that we appreciate their legacy with a visit to the core of their world… and to see some nice birds along the way! The ease of access for tourists to the area dovetails nicely with a high diversity of birds, making this tour destination a natural one for birders interested in seeing some enigmatic Peruvian species.
Our tour took us to the MaPi ruins, but also to the marshes and dry scrub of the Huacarpay Lakes area, the humid cloudforest of the Urubamba valley by the tourist trap of Aguas Calientes, the Sacred Valley around Ollantaytambo, and both the dry and humid sides of Abra Malaga, as well as the Polylepis patch near the pass itself. Apart from the Lima airport, we never were below 2000 meters (~7000 feet) elevation, so it’s impressive that we managed to encounter almost 200 species of birds in about a week!
Highlights were many, and ranged from MaPi itself, to the impressive showerheads at Pakaritampu Hotel (seriously!) to a number of memorable sightings we enjoyed. Highest on that list was a pair of Andean Ibis that allowed close approach on the shores of Lake Piuray (in contrast to the high flight silhouettes we saw a few days earlier), the snazzy Bearded Mountaineer that we drank in as it buzzed around the garden at our hotel in Ollantaytambo, the distant (but nevertheless huge) Andean Condors we watched drawing circles over the craggy ridges by Abra Malaga, the female Sapphire-vented Puffleg we encountered that was feeding a fledged young beside the road, and the amazing close-up views we had of a pair of super-stealthy Stripe-faced Wood-Quail as they skittered past us in the understory of the cloudforest while we held our breaths! Views of two antpittas made the list with the bold Stripe-headed at Maxima’s and the surprisingly unself-conscious Urubamba (formerly Rufous) that sang from an opening on the roadbank at treeline. Color did come into play with the inclusion of Blue-necked Tanagers at the Inkaterra hotel feeders, joined by Blue-naped Chlorophonias, and of course the unforgettable male Andean Cocks-of-the-Rock at their lek. The more subdued female Cock-of-the-Rock (Hen-of-the-Rock?) also got a mention… as did two other brownish birds: the stoic Black-streaked Puffbirds with their ruby red eyes, and the quail-like Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, a strange shorebird of the puna grasslands. Finally, two riverside denizens were selected for this list as well: the many Torrent Ducks we enjoyed along the Urubamba River, and the gawky, but nevertheless attractive, Fasciated Tiger-Herons that displayed for us in front of Aguas Calientes.
In addition to these natural sights, we further enjoyed learning about the history and culture of the region thanks to Lucrecia and her son, Rafael, and we ate some exquisite cuisine, one of the unsung stars of the tour! I certainly hope y’all enjoyed the experience as much as I did, and that we’ll do it again sometime in some other wonderful corner of this Earth, binoculars in hand! Until then,
Baile con Dios,
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BROWN TINAMOU (Crypturellus obsoletus) [*]
ANDEAN GOOSE (Oressochen melanopterus)
A pair at Laguna Piuray put this on the list.
TORRENT DUCK (Merganetta armata)
Randy put us on our first one by the big cliffs on the upper Urubamba River. We later had 20+ individuals on each train ride between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu.
PUNA TEAL (Spatula puna)
CINNAMON TEAL (Spatula cyanoptera)
Ted spotted a bird for us on Huacarpay Lakes, and we later had several at Piuray.
YELLOW-BILLED PINTAIL (Anas georgica)
We could easily compare this and the next at Piuray.
YELLOW-BILLED TEAL (Anas flavirostris)
ANDEAN DUCK (Oxyura ferruginea)
Until recently considered a form of Ruddy Duck; we had them at Piuray.
ANDEAN GUAN (Penelope montagnii)
Not hard to see well! We had a pair walking on the tracks on our Mandor Valley hike.
STRIPE-FACED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus balliviani)
Holy kittens! What a great experience with a super-difficult bird!! We had a pair walk past us at close quarters on the trails at the Inkaterra hotel... only my second time seeing the bird (and first time in Peru)!
WHITE-TUFTED GREBE (Rollandia rolland)
Nancy deftly spotted our first of these at Huacarpay.
SILVERY GREBE (ANDEAN) (Podiceps occipitalis juninensis)
Incredibly numerous on Piuray, which is nice since they have been blinking out on several of the lakes in the area.
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
SPOT-WINGED PIGEON (Patagioenas maculosa)
A large, clunky pigeon of high dry Andean habitats.
BARE-FACED GROUND DOVE (Metriopelia ceciliae)
A pair showed well in the garden of the Pakaritampu.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)
WHITE-THROATED QUAIL-DOVE (Zentrygon frenata)
One of these was chugging around on the path shortly before our run-in with the wood-quail. I suspect only Ted and I saw it.
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata)
WHITE-TIPPED SWIFT (Aeronautes montivagus)
Seen around MaPi, usually in more humid environments than the next species.
ANDEAN SWIFT (Aeronautes andecolus)
We managed to nick this species as we were boarding the van to depart Ollantaytambo for Cusco.
SPARKLING VIOLETEAR (Colibri coruscans)
LESSER VIOLETEAR (Colibri cyanotus)
We got to compare these two violetears side-by-side at Inkaterra. This was formerly part of Green Violetear, which has been split into Lesser and Mexican violetears.
SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD (Adelomyia melanogenys)
LONG-TAILED SYLPH (Aglaiocercus kingii)
A young male showed up briefly at the Inkaterra garden.
GREEN-TAILED TRAINBEARER (Lesbia nuna)
Several were in the garden at Pakaritampu.
RUFOUS-CAPPED THORNBILL (Chalcostigma ruficeps)
A male gave us quick looks at our farthest point on the humid side of Abra Malaga.
BEARDED MOUNTAINEER (Oreonympha nobilis) [E]
Nice! A couple of fine males feeding on the redhot poker flowers at Pakaritampu as predicted!
TYRIAN METALTAIL (SMARAGDINICOLLIS) (Metallura tyrianthina smaragdinicollis)
SAPPHIRE-VENTED PUFFLEG (COPPERY-NAPED) (Eriocnemis luciani sapphiropygia)
Now this was a real treat! A female was feeding a recently-fledged young beside the road on the humid side of Abra Malaga. A lifer for yours truly and a great viewing experience to boot!
WHITE-TUFTED SUNBEAM (Aglaeactis castelnaudii) [E]
Doing their usual thing below Penas, where they chase things and then perch at the apex of a tree.
BRONZY INCA (Coeligena coeligena)
One of the world's least impressive hummingbirds.
COLLARED INCA (GOULD'S) (Coeligena torquata omissa)
This is the buff-collared form that may be split off at some point.
CHESTNUT-BREASTED CORONET (Boissonneaua matthewsii)
This is the species that raises its wings in a "stick the landing gymnast" pose.
BOOTED RACKET-TAIL (Ocreatus underwoodii)
WHITE-BELLIED WOODSTAR (Chaetocercus mulsant)
GREEN-AND-WHITE HUMMINGBIRD (Elliotomyia viridicauda) [E]
An endemic of Peru, and common in the MaPi area, with a bird at Pakaritampu as well.
PLUMBEOUS RAIL (Pardirallus sanguinolentus)
Plenty easy to see around Huacarpay Lakes.
COMMON GALLINULE (Gallinula galeata)
SLATE-COLORED COOT (Fulica ardesiaca)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (WHITE-BACKED) (Himantopus mexicanus melanurus)
ANDEAN LAPWING (Vanellus resplendens)
GRAY-BREASTED SEEDSNIPE (Thinocorus orbignyianus)
A scarce species that we saw well at Lagunillas on the humid side of Abra Malaga.
PUNA SNIPE (Gallinago andina)
At the same place as the last.
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca) [b]
At Piuray.
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes) [b]
At Huacarpay. These two yellowlegs are both oversummering migrants from North America.
ANDEAN GULL (Chroicocephalus serranus)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Nannopterum brasilianum)
FASCIATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma fasciatum)
Great views of at least one pair as they chased and displayed along the Urubamba in front of Aguas Calientes.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
At Piuray.
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
Also at Piuray.
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
PUNA IBIS (Plegadis ridgwayi)
Widespread and common in the region.
ANDEAN IBIS (Theristicus branickii)
Rare by comparison to the last, but we saw a pair well at Piuray. This was until recently considered part of Black-faced Ibis.
ANDEAN CONDOR (Vultur gryphus)
Whew! After some searching, we finally spotted a distant pair soaring on updrafts along high ridges near the Polylepis area on Abra Malaga.
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
Only in the high flat plains around the entrance to Laguna Huaypo.
CINEREOUS HARRIER (Circus cinereus)
Seen at both lakes.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)
A surprising find at over 3000m on the humid side of Abra Malaga.
VARIABLE HAWK (Geranoaetus polyosoma)
PERUVIAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium peruanum) [*]
Heard nightly at Ollantaytambo.
ANDEAN MOTMOT (Momotus aequatorialis)
Several showed well around our Inkaterra hotel, as well as along the train ride to and from Aguas Calientes.
BLACK-STREAKED PUFFBIRD (Malacoptila fulvogularis)
A pair was sitting together at the usual spot on the Mandor hike.
BLUE-BANDED TOUCANET (Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis)
OCELLATED PICULET (Picumnus dorbignyanus)
GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus)
ANDEAN FLICKER (Colaptes rupicola)
MOUNTAIN CARACARA (Phalcoboenus megalopterus)
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
ORANGE-BREASTED FALCON (Falco deiroleucus) [*]
Heard only, unfortunately, from the MaPi ruins.
SPECKLE-FACED PARROT (PLUM-CROWNED) (Pionus tumultuosus tumultuosus)
Seen in the trees around the grounds of the Inkaterra hotel.
MITRED PARAKEET (Psittacara mitratus)
VARIABLE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus caerulescens)
A male was at the high point on the Inkaterra trail system.
STRIPE-HEADED ANTPITTA (Grallaria andicolus punensis)
Good views of a singing bird or two at our overlook at Maxima's property.
URUBAMBA ANTPITTA (Grallaria occabambae)
Good views of a surprisingly extroverted individual near treeline on the humid side of Abra Malaga.
DIADEMED TAPACULO (Scytalopus schulenbergi)
It took some work, but we eventually got a nice view of a bird in the bamboo above the road. Bret wants you all to know this is an undescribed species... but for now it is under this name.
STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans)
WREN-LIKE RUSHBIRD (Phleocryptes melanops)
CREAM-WINGED CINCLODES (Cinclodes albiventris albiventris)
WHITE-WINGED CINCLODES (Cinclodes atacamensis)
A pair eventually relented and showed themselves along the cliff section of the Urubamba.
PEARLED TREERUNNER (Margarornis squamiger)
TAWNY TIT-SPINETAIL (Sylviorthorhynchus yanacensis)
One of the furnariids we saw in the Polylepis patch the last birding morning.
WHITE-BROWED TIT-SPINETAIL (Leptasthenura xenothorax) [E]
This, an endemic species nearly completely restricted to Cusco department, showed well in the Polylepis.
LINE-FRONTED CANASTERO (Asthenes urubambensis)
After an aborted start, we caught up to this sharp dresser in the shrubby puna just over the pass at Abra Malaga.
JUNIN CANASTERO (Asthenes virgata) [E]
A bird showed at the crest of the ridge on our final morning, perched amid frost.
STREAK-THROATED CANASTERO (Asthenes humilis)
PUNA THISTLETAIL (Asthenes helleri)
RUSTY-FRONTED CANASTERO (Asthenes ottonis) [E]
A bird around the edge of Huacarpay Lakes eventually showed well.
MARCAPATA SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca marcapatae) [E]
A couple of pairs in the reluctant mixed flocks in the Chusquea bamboo on the humid side of Abra Malaga.
CREAMY-CRESTED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca albicapilla) [E]
A pair showed well at Penas.
AZARA'S SPINETAIL (Synallaxis azarae)
MASKED FRUITEATER (Pipreola pulchra) [E]
After a pair played hard to get on the Mandor hike, we had a very obliging male on the Inkaterra grounds.
RED-CRESTED COTINGA (Ampelion rubrocristatus)
ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK (Rupicola peruvianus)
A small lek revealed males on the hotel grounds at Inkaterra.
BARRED BECARD (Pachyramphus versicolor)
MANY-COLORED RUSH TYRANT (Tachuris rubrigastra)
STREAK-NECKED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes striaticollis)
MOTTLE-CHEEKED TYRANNULET (Phylloscartes ventralis)
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)
Very nice looks at this tiny ball of fury as we started our walk to Mandor Valley.
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (ANDES) (Tolmomyias sulphurescens peruvianus)
CINNAMON FLYCATCHER (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus)
WHITE-BANDED TYRANNULET (Mecocerculus stictopterus)
WHITE-THROATED TYRANNULET (Mecocerculus leucophrys)
ASH-BREASTED TIT-TYRANT (Anairetes alpinus)
An obliging pair in the Polylepis patch.
TUFTED TIT-TYRANT (Anairetes parulus)
UNSTREAKED TIT-TYRANT (Uromyias agraphia) [E]
A pair showed up, but were a bit evasive, in one of the first mixed bamboo flocks we encountered on the humid side of Abra Malaga.
HIGHLAND ELAENIA (Elaenia obscura)
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)
On the Mandor hike and around the Inkaterra hotel.
WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia albiceps)
The birds around Huacarpay Lakes are the coastal breeding form modesta.
SIERRAN ELAENIA (Elaenia pallatangae)
Around the ruins at MaPi.
TORRENT TYRANNULET (Serpophaga cinerea)
Several pairs along the Urubamba river.
SCLATER'S TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias sclateri)
This local specialty showed well on the Mandor hike.
ASHY-HEADED TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias cinereiceps)
SMOKE-COLORED PEWEE (Contopus fumigatus)
BLACK PHOEBE (WHITE-WINGED) (Sayornis nigricans latirostris)
WHITE-WINGED BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus aterrimus)
A bird or two was around the MaPi ruins.
TACZANOWSKI'S GROUND-TYRANT (Muscisaxicola griseus)
A couple individuals were along the ascent of our walk to the Polylepis patch.
RUFOUS-NAPED GROUND-TYRANT (Muscisaxicola rufivertex)
Around Huacarpay Lakes.
WHITE-BROWED GROUND-TYRANT (Muscisaxicola albilora) [a]
This was the ground-tyrant in the valley below Abra Malaga.
RUFOUS-WEBBED BUSH-TYRANT (Cnemarchus rufipennis)
One was in the Polylepis patch.
RUFOUS-BREASTED CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca rufipectoralis)
BROWN-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca fumicolor)
D'ORBIGNY'S CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca oenanthoides)
After a false start that turned out to be the last species at Maxima's, we did get a couple of this high-elevation chat-tyrant on the dry side of Abra Malaga.
WHITE-BROWED CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca leucophrys)
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis)
GOLDEN-CROWNED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus)
Several showed well around Aguas Calientes.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
BROWN-CAPPED VIREO (Vireo leucophrys)
CHIVI VIREO (Vireo chivi)
GREEN JAY (INCA) (Cyanocorax yncas yncas)
Good views of a pair along the Mandor walk.
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)
PALE-FOOTED SWALLOW (Orochelidon flavipes)
This species is restricted to the sky just over treeline humid forests.
BROWN-BELLIED SWALLOW (Orochelidon murina)
Mostly over treeline, we saw it most days at Abra Malaga.
GRAY-MANTLED WREN (Odontorchilus branickii)
A nice bird for this tour; we had it at the Mandor botanical garden.
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon)
INCA WREN (Pheugopedius eisenmanni) [E]
A species only described to science in 1985; we had stonking views at the MaPi ruins, and then again later in bamboo at Abra Malaga.
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys)
WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER (Cinclus leucocephalus)
Great views of several birds, first at Aguas Calientes, then again at the Carrizales bridge at Abra Malaga.
ANDEAN SOLITAIRE (Myadestes ralloides)
A bird singing across the Urubamba from us nevertheless gave itself away allowing a scope view!
PALE-EYED THRUSH (Turdus leucops)
A couple singing males were nice at the Mandor valley.
GREAT THRUSH (Turdus fuscater ockendeni)
CHIGUANCO THRUSH (Turdus chiguanco)
PARAMO PIPIT (Anthus bogotensis)
Singing birds showed well at Lagunilla.
BLUE-NAPED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia cyanea)
This candy-colored bird was appreciated at the feeders at the Inkaterra hotel.
THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA (Euphonia laniirostris)
HOODED SISKIN (Spinus magellanicus)
COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus flavopectus)
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BRUSHFINCH (Arremon brunneinucha)
Thanks to Randy, we got some great views of this usually-skulky bird along the road below Aguas Calientes.
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis)
TRICOLORED BRUSHFINCH (Atlapetes tricolor)
A bird at the MaPi ruins gave us good views.
CUZCO BRUSHFINCH (Atlapetes canigenis) [E]
This was one of the last birds on the day we went to the humid slope of Abra Malaga. An endemic to Cusco department.
DUSKY-GREEN OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius atrovirens)
This hulking blackbird was a regular visitor at the fruit feeders at the Inkaterra hotel.
YELLOW-WINGED BLACKBIRD (Agelasticus thilius)
Around Huacarpay Lakes, where it clearly fills the niche our Red-winged Blackbird does in North America.
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi)
PALE-LEGGED WARBLER (Myiothlypis signata)
A pair popped up to playback on the switchbacks before MaPi.
RUSSET-CROWNED WARBLER (Myiothlypis coronata)
A pair showed well on the Mandor hike.
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus)
SPECTACLED REDSTART (Myioborus melanocephalus)
HEPATIC TANAGER (HIGHLAND) (Piranga flava lutea)
BLACK-BACKED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus aureoventris)
An attractive species in the same genus as our Black-headed and Rose-breasted grosbeaks. It was not hard to see around Pakaritampu.
SLATY TANAGER (Creurgops dentatus)
PARODI'S HEMISPINGUS (Kleinothraupis parodii) [E]
Whew! After a bit of sweating on my part, we managed to pull out a pair of these local endemics!
OLEAGINOUS HEMISPINGUS (Sphenopsis frontalis)
The name means "like olive oil"... and I suppose that would describe the color well enough.
RUST-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Thlypopsis ruficeps)
THREE-STRIPED HEMISPINGUS (Microspingus trifasciatus)
Brief views of a bird in a mixed flock on the humid slope of Abra Malaga.
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo)
BLUE-CAPPED TANAGER (Sporathraupis cyanocephala)
SCARLET-BELLIED MOUNTAIN TANAGER (Anisognathus igniventris)
FAWN-BREASTED TANAGER (Pipraeidea melanonota)
BLUE-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Rauenia bonariensis)
The only "tanager" one's likely to see in the arid scrub around Huacarpay.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)
GOLDEN-NAPED TANAGER (RUSTY-NAPED) (Chalcothraupis ruficervix inca)
One of the attractive "tangara" tanagers at the feeders at Inkaterra, this one is Indigo Bunting-like but with that rufous nape patch.
SILVERY TANAGER (Stilpnia viridicollis)
BLUE-NECKED TANAGER (Stilpnia cyanicollis)
BERYL-SPANGLED TANAGER (Tangara nigroviridis)
SAFFRON-CROWNED TANAGER (Tangara xanthocephala)
The southern form we saw, which sports an orange blush to the face, is particularly handsome.
WHITE-BROWED CONEBILL (Conirostrum ferrugineiventre)
BLUE-BACKED CONEBILL (Conirostrum sitticolor)
CAPPED CONEBILL (Conirostrum albifrons)
CINEREOUS CONEBILL (Conirostrum cinereum)
MOUSTACHED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa mystacalis)
A snazzily-patterned flowerpiercer we saw at treeline on the humid side of Abra Malaga.
BLACK-THROATED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa brunneiventris)
RUSTY FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa sittoides)
MASKED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa cyanea)
PERUVIAN SIERRA FINCH (Phrygilus punensis)
This and the next few were at Maxima's place at Penas.
PLUMBEOUS SIERRA FINCH (Geospizopsis unicolor)
CHESTNUT-BREASTED MOUNTAIN FINCH (Poospizopsis caesar) [E]
BLACK-AND-WHITE SEEDEATER (Sporophila luctuosa)
BAND-TAILED SEEDEATER (Catamenia analis)
PLAIN-COLORED SEEDEATER (Catamenia inornata)
GOLDEN-BILLED SALTATOR (Saltator aurantiirostris)
GUINEA PIG (Cavia aperea)
Wild Guinea Pigs around Huacarpay Lakes played hide and seek with us in the reeds.
KALNIOWSKI'S AGOUTI (Dasyprocta kalinowskii)
This Kalinowski's Agouti is a very local endemic in this area. The semi-concealed white rump patch is the main fieldmark.
MOUNTAIN COATI (Nasuella olivacea)
Seen crossing the hairpins below the MaPi ruins.
Totals for the tour: 190 bird taxa and 3 mammal taxa