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Although our trip was cut short, we still had some marvelous encounters with African wildlife. These Hippos at Ngorongoro grazed out in the open in front of a varied group of waterfowl that included egrets, flamingos, and ducks. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

In almost 40 years of leading bird-watching tours, never have I experienced one quite like this – going perfectly, with so many great birds and mammals, and then suddenly cut short – just like that – when Kenya's President Kenyatta announced that due to coronavirus he was closing Kenya's borders! I must say it was a bit of a scramble as we made an eight-hour drive to Kilimanjaro International Airport and then a charter flight to Nairobi, where we managed to get everyone on flights home and back to their families and friends.

So although we only had one week of birding, what a great week it was - and lots of fabulous mammals, too! Starting in Nairobi National Park we drove across the grassy plains seeing our first Common Ostrich, Helmeted Guineafowl, Yellow-necked Francolin, Rufous-naped Lark, Stout Cisticola, a migrant Whinchat, and the endemic Jackson's Widowbird. At two small wetlands we enjoyed Gray Crowned-Crane, Spur-winged Lapwing, Saddle-billed and Yellow-billed storks, African Darter, Hamerkop, Sacred Ibis, and African Spoonbill. While in the bush country, highlights were White-bellied Go-away-bird, Speckled Mousebird, Northern Pied-Babbler, Superb Starling, and Variable Sunbird. Overhead were Augur Buzzards, hovering Black-winged Kites, and soaring White-backed Vultures. Africa's famed big game was also very much in evidence as we enjoyed Common Giraffe, a herd of about 150 African Buffalo, Bushbuck, Bohor Reedbuck, Hartebeest, and Impala. Perhaps most impressive, though, were a mother and her young Black Rhino, one of Africa's most endangered big mammals.

The following day found us on the 45-minute flight to Kilimanjaro International with fine views of the mountain as we came in to land. We then drove to the Crater Highlands for a one night stay at the delightful Gibb's Farm. Set in beautiful gardens at the edge of a magnificent area of highland forest this was a great way to start our Tanzanian birding. Highlights included Tambourine Dove, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Cardinal and Bearded woodpeckers, Gray Cuckooshrike, Chinspot Batis, African Paradise-flycatcher, White-tailed Blue-flycatcher, Brown-headed Apalis, Gray-capped Warbler, Eastern Mountain and Gray-olive greenbuls, White-browed Robin-Chat, Eastern Double-collared Sunbird, and Grosbeak Weaver. We finished our birding here with great views of a roosting Eurasian Nightjar - truly amazing spotting by our local guide!

From Gibb's, it's only a short drive to Ngorongoro Serena Lodge, perched on the rim with stunning views of the crater below. This was our base for two nights, allowing for a full day within the crater itself, and what a day this turned out to be. Both Black-backed and Common jackals showed nicely – sometimes walking right beside our Landcruiser, Lions and Spotted Hyaena took a while to find, but eventually we found three of each, some huge bull Elephants put on quite a show, as did hippos, some walking around right in the open. We also enjoyed our first close encounter with herds as we drove between scattered herds of zebra, wildebeest, and Thomson's Gazelle - the spectacular wall of the crater ever-present in the background. Birding highlights were at the main crater lake, where we saw flocks of both Greater and Lesser flamingos, and a variety of ducks, herons, ibis, pelicans and shorebirds. Grassland favorites were Abdim's and White storks, Secretarybird, Lilac-breasted Roller, the endemic Hildebrandt's Starling and Rufous-tailed Weaver, and a striking male Rosy-throated Longclaw. A magnificent perched adult Martial Eagle was pretty impressive too!

The final part of our tour was in the world famous Serengeti National Park, with two nights in the Serena area and one at Ndutu. We stopped along the way at Oldupai Gorge (formerly called Olduvai), where a local guide explained about this fascinating area made famous as The Cradle of Mankind when the Leakeys started unearthing their archaeological wonders in the 1950's.

The Serengeti is always a wonderful place to visit, be it in either the wet or dry season. This year exceptional rains meant many miles had high grass, but the beauty of staying in two different lodges gave us access to the Ndutu short-grass plains which many animals favor. Just some of the group favorites during our time here were Gray-breasted and Coqui francolins, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Great Spotted Cuckoo, a rarely seen migrant Corn Crake, Great Painted-snipe, Double-banded Courser, squabbling White-backed, Rueppell's and Lappet-faced vultures at a kill, Bateleur crossing the open skies, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Von der Decken's and Tanzanian Red-billed hornbills, Striped Kingfisher, Pygmy Falcon, Fischer's Lovebird, Magpie Shrike, Red-throated Tit, Red-billed and Yellow-billed oxpeckers, Beautiful Sunbird, Blue-capped Cordonbleu, and the gorgeous Purple Grenadier. However, for many visitors the Serengeti highlight is the mammals, and as always we had a fabulous time as we drove the winding tracks finding groups of Banded and Eastern Dwarf mongoose, more Spotted Hyaena, Lions, including large maned males, females and cubs, a rare Serval (Cat), a mother Cheetah and two youngsters eating a freshly killed Grant's Gazelle, several herds of elephant, topi, and warthog. Perhaps most impressive though was just being out there, slowly driving through the herds of zebra, buffalo, wildebeest, Impala, and Grant's Gazelles - the expanse of Serengeti grassland all around!

It turned out to be a shortened version of our usual tour, but nonetheless the experience of a lifetime.

Take care everyone!

Terry

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

Our day at Ngorongoro began with a lovely dawn. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

Participant Juergen Schrenk got this shot of an African Sacred Ibis and a Little Egret that seem to be racing each other.

In the Crater Highlands of Ngorongoro we visited a Masai village, where we were greeted by the chief. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

These are just a few of the massive herds of Blue Wildebeest that we saw. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

The recent rains brought out an abundance of flowers, including these small white ones known locally as takataka flowers. In the background on the lake are a few flamingos and ducks. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

We got a fantastic view of this Lanner Falcon in the Serengeti. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

This Winding Cisticola was one of a few that we saw during the tour. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

Burchell's Zebras were seen in the thousands at both Ngorongoro and the Serengeti. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

Lions also showed extraordinarily well. This group was not concerned at all with our presence. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

The Rufous-tailed Weaver is an endemic that we saw well at Ngorongoro Crater and in the Serengeti. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

We came upon this family of Cheetahs on a recent kill as we drove in the Serengeti. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

Plain-backed Pipits were common as we drove through the Serengeti. Photo by participant Juergen Schrenk.

Participant Juergen Schrenk shot this portrait of a Marabou Stork as the bird's nictitating membrane covered the eye, giving this sinister-looking creature an even more surreal look.

On the way to the Serengeti, we stopped at world-famous Oldupai Gorge, where we learned about the amazing archeological finds made here by the Leakeys. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

Our first view of Ngorongoro Crater from the rim gave the impression of infinite space. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Reptiles on the tour included;

Nile Crocodile, 1 in Nairobi NP.

Water Monitor, 1 in Nairobi NP.

Red-headed Rock Agama, about 10 at Oldupai Gorge.

Mwanza Rock Agama, 20 in the Seronera and Serengeti Serena areas.

Flap-necked Chameleon, 1 near Seronera.

Leopard Tortoise, singles in Nairobi NP, and near Serengeti Serena.

Totals for the tour: 234 bird taxa and 34 mammal taxa