As usual we began our March 2023 East Africa Highlights tour with a walk at the Karen Country Club and an afternoon visit to Nairobi National Park. Highlights included such varied species as Common Ostrich, Helmeted Guineafowl, Scaly Spurfowl, Hartlaub's Turaco, Gray Crowned-Crane, Spur-winged Lapwing, African Darter, African Sacred Ibis, Martial Eagle, Speckled Mousebird, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Black-backed Puffback, Long-tailed Fiscal, Pectoral-patch Cisticola, Lesser Striped Swallow, Red-billed Oxpecker, Rueppell's Robin-Chat, and Variable Sunbird. Of course, we also saw our first mammals with just some of the species we enjoyed including Wahlberg's Epauletted Fruit Bat, Lion, Burchell's Zebra, White Rhino, Hippo, Common Giraffe, Kirk's Dikdik, and Grant's Gazelle.
The following day found us making an early start before taking a flight to Kilimanjaro International Airport in northern Tanzania.
On arrival we meet our driver Nuru and then headed west to the Crater Highlands and the famous Gibbs Farm. We only spent one night at this delightful country retreat, but we managed to see great forest birds including African Emerald Cuckoo, Ayres's Hawk-Eagle, Mountain Gray Woodpecker, Tropical Boubou, African Paradise-Flycatcher, White-tailed Blue-Flycatcher (now in the new family Stenostiridae), Brown-headed Apalis, Gray-capped Warbler, White-browed Robin-Chat, Holub's Golden Weaver, Grosbeak Weaver, and Thick-billed Seedeater.
From Gibbs it's only a short drive to Ngorongoro Crater, where we spent two nights at Serena Lodge giving us spectacular views from the crater rim. We then spent a day slowly traversing the crater bottom – a major highlight as we watched and photographed Blue-billed Teal, Hildebrandt's Spurfowl, had our first views of both Greater and Lesser flamingos, and saw Rameron Pigeon, 5 Kori Bustards (including a magnificent close displaying male), Black-bellied Bustard, Collared Pratincole, Greater Honeyguide, White-necked Raven, Rufous-naped and Red-capped larks, Mbulu White-eye, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, Capped Wheatear, Eastern Double-collared Sunbird, the endemic Rufous-tailed Weaver, Speke's Weaver, Yellow Bishop, Purple Grenadier, and striking Rosy-throated Longclaws. Mammals were also spectacular, with good looks at Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Common Jackal, Spotted Hyaena, Lion, African Bush Elephant, no fewer than 5 endangered Black Rhino, Common Eland, African Buffalo, Blue Wildebeest, and Thomson's and Grant's gazelles.
Continuing west we then took time to visit Olduvai Gorge -- the world-famous site where the Leakey family made many of their most important discoveries on the origins of early humans. We then spent three nights in the Serengeti, with the first two at Serengeti Serena and then one at Ndutu Safari Lodge. During this amazing time we enjoyed many wonderful experiences, but just a few of these were great close looks at the endemic Gray-breasted Spurfowl, super close flamingos as we drove along the shore of Lake Ndutu, Chestnut-bellied and Yellow-throated sandgrouse, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Great-spotted Cuckoo, Spotted Thick-knee (with chicks), Secretarybird, almost 20 species of raptors, including the now endangered Lappet-faced and White-headed vultures, Southern Ground-Hornbill, European and Lilac-breasted rollers, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Fischer's Lovebird, Magpie Shrike, Red-throated Tit, Red-faced Crombec, Banded Parisoma, Hildebrandt's Starling, Silverbird, Beautiful Sunbird, Black, White-winged and Southern Red bishops, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, Pin-tailed, Steel-blue, and Straw-tailed whydahs (all in breeding plumage), and Eastern Paradise-Whydah (also in breeding plumage). The mammals here were of course a major highlight of the whole tour, with hundreds of thousands of wildebeest mixing with 'just thousands' of zebra and a variety of gazelles. Other memorable sights here included no fewer than 28 Lions, a Leopard lounging in a sausage tree, close herds of elephant, almost 40 Spotted Hyaenas, Banded and Eastern Dwarf mongoose, Warthog, and a total of about 150 giraffes.
Before we flew back to Kenya, the final leg of our Tanzania visit was based at Tarangire, a gorgeous area of grassland, marsh, Baobab trees, and palms. Again we added more species, with nice looks at Yellow-necked and Red-necked spurfowl, African Cuckoo, African Swamphen, Water Thick-knee, Long-toed Lapwing, Double-banded Courser, Hamerkop, Wahlberg's Eagle, Green Woodhoopoe, Northern Red-billed Hornbill, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Gray Kestrel, Yellow-collared Lovebird, White Helmetshrike, Northern Pied-Babbler, and Greater Blue-eared Starling, while new mammals included Unstriped Ground Squirrel, Black-backed Jackal, and Common Waterbuck. Without doubt though, our major success here was watching two Cheetahs feeding on a freshly killed young wildebeest –- awesome!
Back in Kenya, our friend and long-time driver, John, took us north of Nairobi and into the Great Rift Valley, making a stop for a boat trip and lunch at Lake Naivasha. Great for photography, the boat trip provided us with close looks at Yellow-billed Duck, Black Crake, African Jacana, Gray-hooded Gull, Long-tailed Cormorant, both Great White and Pink-backed pelicans, Goliath Heron, Squacco Heron, African Fish-Eagle, and Giant Kingfisher. While at Lake Nakuru we added African Green-Pigeon, White-winged and Whiskered terns, Little Sparrowhawk, White-fronted Bee-eater, Red-fronted Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide, African Black-headed Oriole, Chinspot Batis, Northern Puffback, African Thrush, Mocking Cliff-Chat, and Long-tailed Widowbird.
Leaving Nakuru we then drove west and made a brief stop on the shores of Lake Victoria, finding Eastern Plantain-eater, Black-headed Gonolek, Greater Swamp Warbler, and Northern Brown-throated, Black-headed, and Slender-billed weavers before heading north for a three-night stay at the famed Kakamega Forest. During two full days in this forest we slowly walked the trails, adding such varied species as Great Blue and Black-billed turacos, a tame immature Crowned Eagle with its prey –- a Blue Monkey (or at least the arm and hand of a Blue Monkey), Black Goshawk, Bar-tailed Trogon, Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Yellow-billed and Gray-throated barbets, Brown-eared Woodpecker, Brown-throated and Jameson's wattle-eyes, Pink-footed Puffback, Luedher's Bushshrike, Green Hylia, Black-collared Apalis, Black-faced Rufous-Warbler, White-headed Sawwing, Shelley's, Joyful, Ansorge's, and Plain greenbuls, Uganda Woodland-Warbler, Stuhlmann's Starling, Red-headed Malimbe, Black-billed, Forest, and Brown-capped weavers, and Red-headed Bluebill.
From Kakamega we then drove east with a stop in the Kerio Valley along the way, our targets here being White-crested Turaco and Double-toothed Barbet -– and both were quickly found. Continuing on we then spent two nights at Bogoria, allowing us a day birding at nearby Lake Baringo. This area (formerly Terry's home) is usually the hottest and driest place on the tour, but this year was exceptional -– with a whole morning of rain and even cold weather. Luckily, though, our local guide had staked out some great birds for us, and we spent the afternoon getting super looks at such special birds as Slender-tailed Nightjar, Three-banded Courser, Northern White-faced Owl, Grayish Eagle-Owl, Hemprich's and Jackson's hornbills, Black-throated Barbet, Pygmy Batis, Brubru, Mouse-colored Penduline-Tit, Northern Crombec, Red-fronted Prinia, Bristle-crowned Starling, Brown-tailed Chat, Eastern Violet-backed and Hunter's sunbirds, White-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Golden-backed Weaver, and Green-winged Pytilia.
The final leg of our tour was heading back to Nairobi with a night at The Ark in the Aberdare Mountains along the way. During the drive we made a lunch stop at Thomson's Falls and had great views of Tacazze Sunbird. And we then joined local guide Paul, who managed to find us the distinctive form of Cape Eagle-Owl (mackinderi) without even having binoculars!
The Ark proved to be a great way to conclude our tour, with birds and mammals coming in close to the waterhole, mineral lick, and the hanging bird-feeder. Just a few of the highlights here included great looks at Giant Forest Hog, Suni Bushbuck, Large Spotted Genet (with a cute baby), and yet more close elephants and Spotted Hyaena. Bird sightings included our best looks at Dusky Turtle Dove, flying Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, Tropical Boubou, the endemic Hunter's Cisticola, Mountain Yellow Warbler, Golden-winged Sunbird, and Yellow-crowned Canary.
Our next East Africa Highlights tour runs March 2-22, 2024.
Footnote: Thanks to the generosity of this group, 'owlman' Paul Muriithi now has a fabulous new pair of binoculars!
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
COMMON OSTRICH (Struthio camelus massaicus)
First seen at Nairobi National Park (8), we then saw a total of about 115 at Ngorongoro Crater, across the Serengeti, and at Tarangire.
EGYPTIAN GOOSE (Alopochen aegyptiaca)
Common and widespread at wetlands throughout the tour; in all we saw about 700.
SPUR-WINGED GOOSE (Plectropterus gambensis)
One in Ngorongoro Crater and 3 at Tarangire.
BLUE-BILLED TEAL (Spatula hottentota)
Formerly called Hottentot Teal, we saw saw 2 in Ngorongoro Crater, and 2 at Nakuru.
AFRICAN BLACK DUCK (Anas sparsa)
One on the pond in the quarry near Kiawara.
YELLOW-BILLED DUCK (Anas undulata)
About 40 at Naivasha and Nakuru, and 8 at The Ark.
CAPE TEAL (Anas capensis)
Three in Ngorongoro Crater, and 2 at Lake Ndutu.
RED-BILLED DUCK (Anas erythrorhyncha)
Six in Ngorongoro Crater, 2 near Ndutu, and 6 at Naivasha.
HELMETED GUINEAFOWL (Numida meleagris)
Common and widespread in a variety of open bush country; in all we saw about 400.
CRESTED FRANCOLIN (Ortygornis sephaena)
Five at Nairobi NP, 4 in the Ngorongoro area, and 10 at Tarangire.
COQUI FRANCOLIN (Campocolinus coqui)
Nice looks in the Serengeti, Tarangire, and at Nakuru, with a total of 7 seen, and a few others heard.
HILDEBRANDT'S FRANCOLIN (Pternistis hildebrandti)
We saw a single male at Ngorongoro, and a female at Tarangire.
SCALY FRANCOLIN (Pternistis squamatus)
Four at Nairobi NP, and 3 near The Ark.
YELLOW-NECKED FRANCOLIN (Pternistis leucoscepus)
Fourteen at Tarangire.
GRAY-BREASTED FRANCOLIN (Pternistis rufopictus) [E]
Great looks at this endemic at Ndutu Lodge, and a few others between there and Serengeti Serena Lodge.
RED-NECKED FRANCOLIN (Pternistis afer)
About 25 at Tarangire.
GREATER FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus roseus)
About 50 at Ngorongoro were a bit distant, but we then had great close looks at about 850 at Lake Ndutu, and 40 at Nakuru.
LESSER FLAMINGO (Phoeniconaias minor)
At least 250 were together with Greater Flamingos in Ngorongoro Crater, we then had close looks at 8000+ at Lake Ndutu, and 10,000+ more distantly at Nakuru.
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
Two in Ngorongoro Crater, and 6 at Naivasha.
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
Small numbers in a few widespread villages.
SPECKLED PIGEON (Columba guinea)
About 30 in the Serengeti, a dozen at Tarangire, 8 at Nakuru, 10 between Bogoria and Baringo, and 10 in The Ark area.
RAMERON PIGEON (Columba arquatrix)
Three in flight, and then a single nicely perched bird on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater.
DUSKY TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia lugens)
Two at Ngorongoro, and 1 at The Ark.
MOURNING COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decipiens)
About 20 at Naabi Hill in the Serengeti, 6 near Ndutu, and 30 in the Baringo-Bogoria area.
RED-EYED DOVE (Streptopelia semitorquata)
Small numbers at Gibbs Farm, Ngorongoro, Naivasha, Nakuru, Kakamega, and The Ark; in all we saw about 80.
RING-NECKED DOVE (Streptopelia capicola)
Very common and widespread away from Kakamega Forest and Baringo.
LAUGHING DOVE (Streptopelia senegalensis)
A few around Serengeti Serena, 50+ at Tarangire, and 4 at Baringo.
EMERALD-SPOTTED WOOD-DOVE (Turtur chalcospilos)
One at Tarangire, 1 in the Kerio Valley, and 5 in the Baringo-Bogoria area.
TAMBOURINE DOVE (Turtur tympanistria) [*]
Heard at Kakamega.
NAMAQUA DOVE (Oena capensis)
About a dozen in the Ndutu area, and 2 at Tarangire.
AFRICAN GREEN-PIGEON (Treron calvus)
Good scope views of a perched bird at Lake Nakuru Lodge.
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles exustus)
Six on the way to Ndutu.
YELLOW-THROATED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles gutturalis)
Thirty-four on the open plains in the Serengeti-Ndutu area, and a flock of about 60 at Tarangire.
BLACK-FACED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles decoratus)
Eighteen at Tarangire.
KORI BUSTARD (Ardeotis kori)
Mostly as singles or in pairs, we saw a total of 22 in the Ngorongoro-Serengeti area which included a fabulous displaying male.
WHITE-BELLIED BUSTARD (Eupodotis senegalensis)
Two near Seronera in the Serengeti.
BLACK-BELLIED BUSTARD (Lissotis melanogaster)
We saw a male and then a female in Ngorongoro Crater, and then another female at Nakuru.
GREAT BLUE TURACO (Corythaeola cristata)
We had good looks at 3 of these super birds in the Kakamega Forest; especially on the second day.
SCHALOW'S TURACO (Tauraco schalowi)
Two singles (for most of the group) at Ngorongoro Serena Lodge.
BLACK-BILLED TURACO (Tauraco schuettii)
Two at Kakamega were a real surprise as these are now very uncommon there.
WHITE-CRESTED TURACO (Tauraco leucolophus)
Two briefly in flight as we came down the steep road to the Kerio Valley, and then great looks at 1 in the woodland at the bottom.
HARTLAUB'S TURACO (Tauraco hartlaubi) [E]
Two at The Residences, and heard at The Ark.
ROSS'S TURACO (Musophaga rossae) [*]
Heard along the forest edge at Kakamega.
BARE-FACED GO-AWAY-BIRD (Corythaixoides personatus)
About 20 in the wooded parts of the Serengeti, and 30 at Tarangire.
WHITE-BELLIED GO-AWAY-BIRD (Corythaixoides leucogaster)
Sixteen at Tarangire, and 6 at Baringo.
EASTERN PLANTAIN-EATER (Crinifer zonurus)
Some of the group saw 1 along the shore at Lake Victoria.
BLUE-HEADED COUCAL (Centropus monachus)
One in flight above the papyrus near Eldoret.
WHITE-BROWED COUCAL (Centropus superciliosus)
Widespread, with a total of about 26.
GREAT SPOTTED CUCKOO (Clamator glandarius)
Two singles in the Serengeti.
LEVAILLANT'S CUCKOO (Clamator levaillantii)
One at Ngorongoro Serena Lodge.
DIDERIC CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx caprius)
Three at Gibbs Farm, and another 5 between Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti, and Tarangire.
AFRICAN EMERALD CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx cupreus)
Several heard, and good close views of a calling male in the forest above Gibbs Farm.
BLACK CUCKOO (Cuculus clamosus) [*]
Heard at Kakamega.
RED-CHESTED CUCKOO (Cuculus solitarius)
Several heard and an immature bird seen in the Serengeti.
AFRICAN CUCKOO (Cuculus gularis)
One at Tarangire gave us good looks at its mainly yellow bill.
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)
About a dozen (mainly in flight) between Serengeti and Tarangire.
ABYSSINIAN NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus poliocephalus) [*]
Heard at The Residences.
SLENDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus clarus)
Thanks to our local guide we had great looks at Baringo.
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
About a dozen at Ndutu.
LITTLE SWIFT (Apus affinis)
Widespread around buildings, bridges, and cliffs; in all we saw about 250.
WHITE-RUMPED SWIFT (Apus caffer)
About 30 in the Serengeti, and seen particularly well around the Red-rumped and Lesser Striped Swallow nests at Seronera.
AFRICAN PALM-SWIFT (Cypsiurus parvus)
Four at Nairobi, 2 near Olduvai Gorge, and 4 at Nakuru.
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
Four at Nairobi NP, 4 near Bogoria, and about a dozen in The Ark area.
RED-KNOBBED COOT (Fulica cristata)
Five in Ngorongoro Crater, 60+ at Naivasha, and 3 at The Ark.
AFRICAN SWAMPHEN (Porphyrio madagascariensis)
One at Tarangire for some of the group, and then good looks at 2 for everyone in the marsh near Bogoria.
BLACK CRAKE (Zapornia flavirostra)
Two in the Serengeti, 1 at Naivasha, 1 near Bogoria, and 2 at The Ark.
GRAY CROWNED-CRANE (Balearica regulorum)
These beautiful (and sometimes tame) birds were widespread in marshes and grassland; in all we saw about 60.
WATER THICK-KNEE (Burhinus vermiculatus)
Two different pairs at Tarangire.
SPOTTED THICK-KNEE (Burhinus capensis)
Two adults and 2 very small juveniles in the Serengeti.
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
Widespread at a variety of scattered wetlands; in total we saw about 110.
PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)
Two at the lake in Ngorongoro Crater, and 1 at Nakuru.
LONG-TOED LAPWING (Vanellus crassirostris)
Six at Tarangire, and 1 at Naivasha.
BLACKSMITH LAPWING (Vanellus armatus)
Very common and widespread, with a total of about 750.
SPUR-WINGED LAPWING (Vanellus spinosus)
Six at Nairobi NP, 4 at Nakuru, and 8 near Bogoria.
BLACK-WINGED LAPWING (Vanellus melanopterus)
We saw a single flock of 9 in the grasslands near Eldoret.
CROWNED LAPWING (Vanellus coronatus)
75
KITTLITZ'S PLOVER (Charadrius pecuarius)
Three in Ngorongoro Crater, and 2 at Nakuru.
COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula)
Singles at Ngorongoro and Nakuru.
THREE-BANDED PLOVER (Charadrius tricollaris)
Two at Nairobi NP, 1 near Seronera, and 1 at Tarangire.
AFRICAN JACANA (Actophilornis africanus)
One in the Serengeti, 6 at Tarangire, and 6 at Naivasha.
RUFF (Calidris pugnax)
At least 80 were in Ngorongoro Crater, about 10 singles in the Serengeti, and 120+ at Naivasha and Nakuru.
CURLEW SANDPIPER (Calidris ferruginea)
Four at Ngorongoro, and 60+ at Lake Ndutu.
LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)
Widespread on wetlands with open shorelines, in all we saw about 300.
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago)
Four at The Ark.
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
Five singles were seen at Nairobi NP, Ngorongoro, in the Serengeti, and at Tarangire.
GREEN SANDPIPER (Tringa ochropus)
Two at Nairobi NP, 2 in the Serengeti, 1 at Tarangire.
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
Two singles along the Tarangire River.
MARSH SANDPIPER (Tringa stagnatilis)
Two at Ngorongoro, 2 at Lake Ndutu, and 6 at Naivasha.
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
Widespread in small numbers, with a total of about about 30.
SMALL BUTTONQUAIL (Turnix sylvaticus)
One was flushed as we drove through long grass in the Serengeti.
DOUBLE-BANDED COURSER (Smutsornis africanus)
Nice looks at 5 on the dry open plains at Tarangire.
THREE-BANDED COURSER (Rhinoptilus cinctus)
Another great find by our local guide at Baringo.
COLLARED PRATINCOLE (Glareola pratincola)
About 40 at Ngorongoro, 1 near Naabi Hill, and 4 at Tarangire.
GRAY-HOODED GULL (Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus)
Eight at Naivasha, and 20+ at Nakuru.
GULL-BILLED TERN (Gelochelidon nilotica)
A total of bout 50 feeding over the Serengeti grasslands, 3 at Naivasha, and about 150+ at Nakuru.
WHITE-WINGED TERN (Chlidonias leucopterus)
One at Nakuru.
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
One in near breeding-plumage at Nakuru.
ABDIM'S STORK (Ciconia abdimii)
About 100 on the way to Gibbs Farm, 200+ in Ngorongoro Crater, 6 near Ndutu, and 2 at Tarangire.
WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)
Surprisingly few this year with just 2 in the Crater Highlands, 8 in the Serengeti, and 20 at Tarangire.
SADDLE-BILLED STORK (Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis) [E]
We saw a pair in a small river bed between Seronera and Naabi Hill.
MARABOU STORK (Leptoptilos crumenifer)
Widespread with the largest numbers being 200 around Nairobi, 100+ at Naivasha, and 50+ at Nakuru.
YELLOW-BILLED STORK (Mycteria ibis)
Widespread on several scattered wetlands; in all we saw about 110.
AFRICAN DARTER (Anhinga rufa rufa)
Sadly a declining species in much of Africa, however we saw about a dozen at Nairobi NP.
LONG-TAILED CORMORANT (Microcarbo africanus)
Two at Nairobi NP, 10 at Naivasha, 2 at Nakuru, and 1 at Lake Victoria.
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
With many on distant trees it was hard to get an accurate figure, but we saw at least 1000 at Naivasha and Nakuru, and some were especially close on the boat trip at Naivasha.
GREAT WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus onocrotalus)
One at Naivasha, and about 150 at Nakuru.
PINK-BACKED PELICAN (Pelecanus rufescens)
Ten at Naivasha, then 80+ in a single flock at Nakuru were unusual.
HAMERKOP (Scopus umbretta)
About 40 at Naivasha were the most for a single area, but we also saw them at several other wetlands with a total of about 60.
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
The most were at Naivasha and Nakuru where we saw a total of about 50, but we also saw another dozen or so at a variety of scattered wetlands.
BLACK-HEADED HERON (Ardea melanocephala)
More of a grassland species than Gray Heron; we saw a total of about 120.
GOLIATH HERON (Ardea goliath)
Good looks at 2 from the boat at Naivasha, and then 1 at Nakuru.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
Two at Nairobi NP, 2 at Tarangire, 3 at Naivasha, and 1 near Bogoria.
INTERMEDIATE EGRET (Ardea intermedia)
One at the marsh edge near Bogoria.
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
Six at Naivasha, and 1 at Lake Victoria.
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
Fairly common and widespread.
SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)
One at Tarangire, and 3 at Naivasha.
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
Some of the group saw 1 in the papyrus near Eldoret.
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
Two in Ngorongoro Crater, and 8 at Naivasha.
AFRICAN SACRED IBIS (Threskiornis aethiopicus)
The most common and widespread ibis; in all we saw about 240.
HADADA IBIS (Bostrychia hagedash)
Another widespread ibis (especially in Kenya); in all we saw about 80.
AFRICAN SPOONBILL (Platalea alba)
About a dozen at Nairobi NP, 6 at Ngorongoro, and 20 at Naivasha and Nakuru.
SECRETARYBIRD (Sagittarius serpentarius)
Seven in the Ngorongoro Serengeti area, and 4 at Tarangire.
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
One at Naivasha.
BLACK-WINGED KITE (Elanus caeruleus)
Three in the Serengeti, 1 at Tarangire, and 1 at Nakuru.
AFRICAN HARRIER-HAWK (Polyboroides typus)
Singles at Nairobi, near Gibbs Farm, and Nakuru, and 2 in the Serengeti.
WHITE-HEADED VULTURE (Trigonoceps occipitalis)
One in the Serengeti.
LAPPET-FACED VULTURE (Torgos tracheliotos)
Two near Olduvai Gorge, and 5 in the Serengeti. Like many other African vultures this species is now endangered.
HOODED VULTURE (Necrosyrtes monachus)
Two, with other vultures near Naabi Hill.
WHITE-BACKED VULTURE (Gyps africanus)
The most common and widespread vulture; in all we saw about 180.
RUEPPELL'S GRIFFON (Gyps rueppelli)
Six in the Serengeti, and 2 at Tarangire.
BATELEUR (Terathopius ecaudatus)
A classic raptor of the wide open skies; we saw about 24 in the Serengeti and at Tarangire.
CROWNED EAGLE (Stephanoaetus coronatus)
A recently fledged juvenile was in the grounds of Rondo Retreat, where we also heard the parent bird and found an arm and hand of a Blue Monkey – their favorite prey.
MARTIAL EAGLE (Polemaetus bellicosus)
We saw these huge eagles at Nairobi NP, Ngorongoro, Serengeti, Tarangire, and Nakuru.
LONG-CRESTED EAGLE (Lophaetus occipitalis)
One in the Serengeti.
WAHLBERG'S EAGLE (Hieraaetus wahlbergi)
One as we had breakfast at Tarangire Sopa Lodge.
AYRES'S HAWK-EAGLE (Hieraaetus ayresii)
One over the forest at Gibbs Farm.
TAWNY EAGLE (Aquila rapax)
We saw a total of 28 between Ngorongoro, the Serengeti and Tarangire.
DARK CHANTING-GOSHAWK (Melierax metabates)
Four in the Serengeti.
EASTERN CHANTING-GOSHAWK (Melierax poliopterus)
One in the dry country on the way to Lake Manyara.
GABAR GOSHAWK (Micronisus gabar)
Three singles at Tarangire.
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
Two females at Ngorongoro, and a male near Ndutu.
PALLID HARRIER (Circus macrourus)
Nice looks at Ngorongoro and in the Serengeti.
MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)
We saw a female in the Serengeti, and then 2 males at Tarangire.
SHIKRA (Accipiter badius)
One in flight in the Kerio Valley.
LITTLE SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter minullus)
One at Nakuru.
BLACK GOSHAWK (Accipiter melanoleucus)
Good scope views of a perched bird at Kakamega.
BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans)
Common and widespread; in all we saw about 180.
AFRICAN FISH-EAGLE (Haliaeetus vocifer)
We saw a total of about 50 at lakes Naivasha and Nakuru.
COMMON BUZZARD (STEPPE) (Buteo buteo vulpinus)
One near Gibbs Farm, and 6 in the Serengeti.
AUGUR BUZZARD (Buteo augur)
Four in the Gibbs Farm area, 3 at Ngorongoro, and 2 in the Serengeti.
NORTHERN WHITE-FACED OWL (Ptilopsis leucotis)
A well hidden pair in an acacia at Baringo was another great find by our local guide.
CAPE EAGLE-OWL (NORTHERN) (Bubo capensis mackinderi)
And, another great owl we saw in daylight. This one was found by local guide Paul near Kiawara.
GRAYISH EAGLE-OWL (Bubo cinerascens)
Back to Baringo, William had this one staked out for us.
PEARL-SPOTTED OWLET (Glaucidium perlatum)
One at the bottom of the Crater Highlands.
MARSH OWL (Asio capensis)
Totally unexpected was a morning bird perched on a stump in the Serengeti grasslands.
SPECKLED MOUSEBIRD (Colius striatus)
Very common and widespread.
BLUE-NAPED MOUSEBIRD (Urocolius macrourus)
Usually prefers drier country than the previous species; we saw these at Olduvai Gorge, Serengeti, Tarangire, and Baringo.
BAR-TAILED TROGON (Apaloderma vittatum)
A pair were seen and heard calling in the forest interior at Kakamega.
EURASIAN HOOPOE (AFRICAN) (Upupa epops africana)
A single was seen in the Serengeti, 2 at Tarangire, and then 2 more singles at Naivasha and Nakuru.
GREEN WOODHOOPOE (Phoeniculus purpureus)
Some of the group saw 3 in the Serengeti and 4 at Tarangire, but it wasn't until Nakuru that we all connected with this species – another flock of 3. Finally in the Kerio Valley to Bogoria we had 12 more.
SOUTHERN GROUND-HORNBILL (Bucorvus leadbeateri)
Three in the Serengeti, 4 and then 2 at Tarangire, and 3 at Nakuru. One of the great bird families restricted to Africa!
CROWNED HORNBILL (Lophoceros alboterminatus)
One at Thomson's Falls.
HEMPRICH'S HORNBILL (Lophoceros hemprichii)
Good looks at this localized species at Baringo.
AFRICAN GRAY HORNBILL (Lophoceros nasutus)
Four at Arusha airport, 8 at Tarangire, 1 in the Kerio Valley, and 4 in the Baringo-Bogoria area.
JACKSON'S HORNBILL (Tockus jacksoni)
Another localized hornbill – we saw 6 of these along the cliffs at Baringo.
VON DER DECKEN'S HORNBILL (Tockus deckeni)
About 25 in the Serengeti, and 40+ at Tarangire.
NORTHERN RED-BILLED HORNBILL (Tockus erythrorhynchus)
About 20 at Tarangire.
SILVERY-CHEEKED HORNBILL (Bycanistes brevis)
Some of the group saw 1 in flight at the gate to the Aberdare NP, and then another 3 flew over our moving vehicle near Karatina.
BLACK-AND-WHITE-CASQUED HORNBILL (Bycanistes subcylindricus)
We saw about 35 of these huge hornbills at Kakamega.
AFRICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Ispidina picta)
Singles at Kakamega and Baringo.
GRAY-HEADED KINGFISHER (Halcyon leucocephala)
One at Tarangire, and 3 in the Kerio Valley to Bogoria area.
WOODLAND KINGFISHER (Halcyon senegalensis)
One in the Serengeti, 1 at Tarangire, 1 in the Kerio Valley, and 2 at Bogoria.
STRIPED KINGFISHER (Halcyon chelicuti)
One in the Serengeti.
GIANT KINGFISHER (Megaceryle maxima)
Four on our boat trip at Lake Naivasha.
PIED KINGFISHER (Ceryle rudis)
About 30 at Naivasha, a dozen at Lake Victoria, and 1 at Bogoria.
WHITE-FRONTED BEE-EATER (Merops bullockoides)
Seven, shortly after the entrance to Nakuru NP.
LITTLE BEE-EATER (Merops pusillus)
Small numbers daily in the Serengeti and Tarangire, and 2 in the Kerio Valley.
CINNAMON-CHESTED BEE-EATER (Merops oreobates)
Six at The Residences, 4 near Gibbs Farm, about 20 at Kakamega, and 1 in the Kerio Valley.
BLUE-CHEEKED BEE-EATER (Merops persicus)
One along the shore of the marsh at Tarangire, and 1 on roadside wires near Bogoria.
EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)
About a dozen in flight over Gibbs Farm, and then great looks at up to 80 in the Serengeti, with many perched close by.
EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)
Common in the Serengeti and Tarangire; in all we saw about 300.
LILAC-BREASTED ROLLER (Coracias caudatus)
One on the way to Gibbs Farm, 80 in the Serengeti and Tarangire areas, and 6 between the Kerio Valley and Baringo-Bogoria.
RUFOUS-CROWNED ROLLER (Coracias naevius)
Two at Tarangire, and 1 along the cliffs at Baringo.
YELLOW-BILLED BARBET (Trachyphonus purpuratus)
One at Kakamega.
RED-AND-YELLOW BARBET (Trachyphonus erythrocephalus)
Fabulous looks at this gorgeous bird at Olduvai Gorge, Tarangire, and Baringo; we saw a total of 9.
D'ARNAUD'S BARBET (Trachyphonus darnaudii)
One at Tarangire, and 16 between the Kerio Valley and Baringo-Bogoria area.
D'ARNAUD'S BARBET (USAMBIRO) (Trachyphonus darnaudii usambiro)
Sometimes split as Usambiro Barbet, we saw about 35 between the Ngorongoro highlands and the Serengeti.
GRAY-THROATED BARBET (Gymnobucco bonapartei)
About 18 at Kakamega – the one with the short rhino horns!
YELLOW-RUMPED TINKERBIRD (YELLOW-RUMPED) (Pogoniulus bilineatus bilineatus)
Two at Kakamega (and many heard), and great close looks at 1 at Thomson's Falls.
RED-FRONTED TINKERBIRD (Pogoniulus pusillus)
Two at the bottom of the Crater Highlands, and 1 at Baringo.
YELLOW-SPOTTED BARBET (Buccanodon duchaillui) [*]
Heard at Kakamega.
RED-FRONTED BARBET (Tricholaema diademata)
Two in the grounds of Lake Nakuru Lodge.
SPOT-FLANKED BARBET (Tricholaema lacrymosa)
One in the Kerio Valley.
BLACK-THROATED BARBET (Tricholaema melanocephala)
One along the cliffs at Baringo.
DOUBLE-TOOTHED BARBET (Lybius bidentatus)
Great scope views of 2 feeding in a fig in the Kerio Valley.
LESSER HONEYGUIDE (Indicator minor)
One at Nakuru.
GREATER HONEYGUIDE (Indicator indicator)
One in the bottom of Ngorongoro Crater.
CARDINAL WOODPECKER (Chloropicus fuscescens)
Two in the Serengeti, and 2 at Baringo.
BEARDED WOODPECKER (Chloropicus namaquus)
Two singles at our lodge at Tarangire.
MOUNTAIN GRAY WOODPECKER (Chloropicus spodocephalus rhodeogaster)
One at Gibbs Farm.
BROWN-EARED WOODPECKER (Campethera caroli)
Two at Kakamega.
NUBIAN WOODPECKER (Campethera nubica)
One in the Serengeti, and 2 at Naivasha.
PYGMY FALCON (Polihierax semitorquatus)
Great looks at a close pair in the Serengeti, and then 2 more at Tarangire.
LESSER KESTREL (Falco naumanni)
Six in the Serengeti.
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
We saw the nominate migrant form in the Serengeti (40), and Tarangire (12).
GRAY KESTREL (Falco ardosiaceus)
Good looks at 1 at Tarangire.
LANNER FALCON (Falco biarmicus)
One flew over the Rondo Retreat at Kakamega.
FISCHER'S LOVEBIRD (Agapornis fischeri) [E]
Several in flight and 1 seen very well near the Serengeti Serena Lodge.
YELLOW-COLLARED LOVEBIRD (Agapornis personatus) [E]
About 200 at Tarangire.
RED-FRONTED PARROT (Poicephalus gulielmi)
A single high flying (and calling) bird flew over The Ark.
MEYER'S PARROT (Poicephalus meyeri)
Singles at the Seronera Serengeti Visitor Center, Tarangire, Naivasha, Nakuru, and Kisumu.
RED-BELLIED PARROT (Poicephalus rufiventris)
Also known as African Orange-bellied Parrot we saw 5 at Tarangire.
AFRICAN BROADBILL (Smithornis capensis) [*]
Two were heard in the depths of Kakamega Forest, but sadly we never got a glimpse of one.
WESTERN BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE (Oriolus brachyrynchus)
Nice looks at this canopy species at Kakamega.
AFRICAN BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE (Oriolus larvatus)
oOne at Nakuru, 6 in the Kerio Valley, and 3 at Baringo-Bogoria.
BROWN-THROATED WATTLE-EYE (Platysteira cyanea)
Several heard and finally 1 seen by a few of the group at Kakamega.
JAMESON'S WATTLE-EYE (Platysteira jamesoni)
One in the undergrowth at Kakamega.
CHINSPOT BATIS (Batis molitor)
Three at Nakuru, 2 in the Kerio Valley.
PYGMY BATIS (Batis perkeo)
One along the cliffs at Baringo.
WHITE HELMETSHRIKE (Prionops plumatus)
Five at Tarangire, and then 4 of the gorgeous long-crested form in the Kerio Valley.
BRUBRU (Nilaus afer)
Two at Baringo.
NORTHERN PUFFBACK (Dryoscopus gambensis)
We saw pairs at Nakuru and in the Kerio Valley.
BLACK-BACKED PUFFBACK (Dryoscopus cubla)
One at The Residences, and 2 at Gibbs Farm.
PINK-FOOTED PUFFBACK (Dryoscopus angolensis)
We saw a distinctive female at Kakamega.
BROWN-CROWNED TCHAGRA (Tchagra australis)
Singles at the Serengeti and Tarangire.
LUEHDER'S BUSHSHRIKE (Laniarius luehderi)
Nice looks at 2 in the tangled vines at Kakamega.
TROPICAL BOUBOU (Laniarius major)
Six at Gibbs Farm, 2 at Nakuru, and 3 at The Ark.
BLACK-HEADED GONOLEK (Laniarius erythrogaster)
We saw 2 of these striking birds in the papyrus at Lake Victoria, and then 3 in the acacia woodland of the Kerio Valley.
SLATE-COLORED BOUBOU (Laniarius funebris)
Small numbers at Ngorongoro, Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti, and at Baringo.
GRAY-GREEN BUSHSHRIKE (Telophorus bocagei) [*]
Heard at Kakamega.
SULPHUR-BREASTED BUSHSHRIKE (Telophorus sulfureopectus)
Good looks at this colorful bushshrike in the Kerio Valley.
SHARPE'S DRONGO (Dicrurus sharpei)
On our checklist we had Common Square-tailed Drongo, but these are now split and the birds we saw in the forest at Kakamega are Sharpe's Drongo.
FORK-TAILED DRONGO (Dicrurus adsimilis)
Common in open woodland and bush country; in all we saw about 65.
AFRICAN PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (Terpsiphone viridis)
Small numbers at Nairobi and Gibbs Farm, 3 at Nakuru, 5 in the Baringo-Bogoria area included a beautiful 'white morph', and finally 2 at Sagana.
RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)
Singles in the Serengeti and at Nakuru.
ISABELLINE SHRIKE (Lanius isabellinus)
One in the Serengeti.
GRAY-BACKED FISCAL (Lanius excubitoroides)
About 30 in the Serengeti, 2 at Naivasha, and 4 at Nakuru.
LONG-TAILED FISCAL (Lanius cabanisi)
Small numbers in the open woodland at Nairobi NP, near Manyara, in the Serengeti, and at Tarangire; in all we saw about 40.
MAGPIE SHRIKE (Lanius melanoleucus)
We saw a total of about 130 in the Serengeti and at Tarangire.
TAITA FISCAL (Lanius dorsalis)
Six in the dry country, especially near Olduvai Gorge.
MACKINNON'S SHRIKE (Lanius mackinnoni)
One in the garden of the Rondo Retreat, Kakamega.
NORTHERN FISCAL (Lanius humeralis)
Widespread in the highlands, where we saw about 60.
WHITE-RUMPED SHRIKE (Eurocephalus ruppelli)
We saw a total of about 200 across the Serengeti and at Tarangire, and 6 more in the Kerio Valley.
CAPE CROW (Corvus capensis)
Fifteen in the Serengeti, 20 on the way to Naivasha, a dozen near Iten, and 4 near Thomson's Falls.
PIED CROW (Corvus albus)
Common and widespread around towns and villages; in all we saw about 260.
FAN-TAILED RAVEN (Corvus rhipidurus)
Fifteen along the escarpment at Iten.
WHITE-NECKED RAVEN (Corvus albicollis)
Five along the rim of Ngorongoro Crater.
AFRICAN BLUE FLYCATCHER (Elminia longicauda)
One at Ngorongoro and 4 at Kakamega; now in the new family Stenostiridae.
WHITE-TAILED BLUE FLYCATCHER (Elminia albicauda)
Two in the forest canopy at Gibbs Farm.
WHITE-BELLIED TIT (Melaniparus albiventris)
One at Thomson's Falls.
RED-THROATED TIT (Melaniparus fringillinus) [E]
Two at the bottom of the Crater Highlands.
MOUSE-COLORED PENDULINE-TIT (Anthoscopus musculus)
Three responsive birds in the acacia bush at Lake Baringo.
FISCHER'S SPARROW-LARK (Eremopterix leucopareia)
We saw a nice close male in Ngorongoro Crater, 4 near Olduvai Gorge, and about 50 near Naabi Hill.
RUFOUS-NAPED LARK (Mirafra africana)
We saw a total of about 80 at Ngorongoro and in the Serengeti.
FLAPPET LARK (Mirafra rufocinnamomea)
Six in the Serengeti.
RED-CAPPED LARK (Calandrella cinerea)
Six in Ngorongoro Crater, and 8 in the Serengeti were seen well, many others were just flushed and seen in flight.
NORTHERN CROMBEC (Sylvietta brachyura)
Two at Baringo.
RED-FACED CROMBEC (Sylvietta whytii)
Two at the bottom of the Crater Highlands.
GREEN HYLIA (Hylia prasina)
Two seen (and others heard) at Kakamega.
WHITE-CHINNED PRINIA (Schistolais leucopogon)
Two in the riverside vegetation at Kakamega.
BLACK-COLLARED APALIS (Oreolais pulcher)
Two singles at Kakamega, and a pair at The Ark.
GREEN-BACKED CAMAROPTERA (GRAY-BACKED) (Camaroptera brachyura brevicaudata)
The gray-backed form was widespread in small numbers; in total we saw about 30.
BUFF-BELLIED WARBLER (Phyllolais pulchella)
Three in the Serengeti.
YELLOW-BREASTED APALIS (Apalis flavida)
One at Nairobi, 2 at Gibbs Farm, and 1 at the bottom of the Crater Highlands.
YELLOW-BREASTED APALIS (BROWN-TAILED) (Apalis flavida viridiceps)
This dry country form of Yellow-breasted Apalis has a very different call to the highland ones; we saw 2 at Baringo and it is sometimes considered a distinct species.
BROWN-HEADED APALIS (Apalis alticola)
Thee in the forest above Gibbs Farm.
TAWNY-FLANKED PRINIA (Prinia subflava)
Two at Ngorongoro Crater.
RED-FRONTED PRINIA (Prinia rufifrons)
Two at Baringo.
BLACK-FACED RUFOUS-WARBLER (Bathmocercus rufus)
Brief views of this super skulker in the Kakamega undergrowth.
GRAY-CAPPED WARBLER (Eminia lepida)
Good looks at a singing bird in the forest above Gibbs Farm.
RED-FACED CISTICOLA (Cisticola erythrops)
One above Gibbs Farm.
CHUBB'S CISTICOLA (Cisticola chubbi)
Good looks at a pair duetting at Kakamega.
HUNTER'S CISTICOLA (Cisticola hunteri) [E]
Another duetting cisticola, we saw about 8 at The Ark.
RATTLING CISTICOLA (Cisticola chiniana)
Widespread in dry acacia country; in all we saw about 60.
WAILING CISTICOLA (LYNES'S) (Cisticola lais distinctus)
One at the top of Ngorongoro Crater.
STOUT CISTICOLA (Cisticola robustus)
Three in the Serengeti, included a juvenile with yellow underparts.
CROAKING CISTICOLA (Cisticola natalensis)
One in the tall grass in the Serengeti.
PECTORAL-PATCH CISTICOLA (Cisticola brunnescens)
One in Nairobi NP.
EASTERN OLIVACEOUS WARBLER (Iduna pallida)
One at Tarangire, and 4 at Baringo.
MOUNTAIN YELLOW-WARBLER (Iduna similis)
Two singles at The Ark.
ICTERINE WARBLER (Hippolais icterina)
One in the Serengeti.
GREATER SWAMP WARBLER (Acrocephalus rufescens)
Good looks at 1 in the papyrus at Lake Victoria.
PLAIN MARTIN (Riparia paludicola)
Two over the hippo pools in the Serengeti.
ROCK MARTIN (Ptyonoprogne fuligula)
Common and widespread in rocky areas and around buildings; in all we saw about 80.
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
Common throughout the tour (except at Kakamega); in all we saw about 3500.
ANGOLA SWALLOW (Hirundo angolensis)
One by the river at Kakamega.
WIRE-TAILED SWALLOW (Hirundo smithii)
Two at Eldoret, and 1 on the way to The Ark.
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (Cecropis daurica)
Widespread in small numbers, with a total of about 75.
LESSER STRIPED SWALLOW (Cecropis abyssinica)
Four in the Nairobi area, 8 in the Serengeti, and 22 at Tarangire.
MOSQUE SWALLOW (Cecropis senegalensis)
One was gathering mud from a track near The Ark.
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)
About 10 in the Ngorongoro area.
WHITE-HEADED SAWWING (Psalidoprocne albiceps)
Twenty at Kakamega.
BLACK SAWWING (Psalidoprocne pristoptera)
Ten at The Residences, a dozen at Gibbs Farm, and 6 at Sagana.
RED-TAILED BRISTLEBILL (Bleda syndactylus) [*]
Heard at Kakamega.
SHELLEY'S GREENBUL (KAKAMEGA) (Arizelocichla masukuensis kakamegae)
Two at Kakamega.
JOYFUL GREENBUL (Chlorocichla laetissima)
A joyful bird of the Kakamega Forest, where we saw about 20.
ANSORGE'S GREENBUL (Eurillas ansorgei)
Nice looks at this very localized species at Kakamega.
PLAIN GREENBUL (Eurillas curvirostris)
Ten at Kakamega.
YELLOW-WHISKERED GREENBUL (Eurillas latirostris)
Two singles at Kakamega (and many others heard).
NORTHERN BROWNBUL (Phyllastrephus strepitans)
One at the Bush Baby Cafe, Baringo.
COMMON BULBUL (DARK-CAPPED) (Pycnonotus barbatus tricolor)
Very common and widespread throughout the tour.
WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus)
One at Gibbs Farm, 2 at Ngorongoro, and about 10 in the Kerio Valley and Baringo-Bogoria area.
UGANDA WOODLAND-WARBLER (Phylloscopus budongoensis)
Two singles at Kakamega.
EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
Four at Ngorongoro Serena Lodge, 2 in the Crater, and 1 at Olduvai Gorge.
BANDED PARISOMA (Curruca boehmi)
After some effort we finally all saw 1 at Naabi Hill.
PALE WHITE-EYE (Zosterops flavilateralis)
One at the bottom of the Crater Highlands.
MBULU WHITE-EYE (Zosterops mbuluensis)
Three along the rim of Ngorongoro Crater.
NORTHERN YELLOW WHITE-EYE (Zosterops senegalensis)
Five at Kakamega.
SCALY-BREASTED ILLADOPSIS (Illadopsis albipectus) [*]
Heard in the undergrowth at Kakamega Forest.
RUFOUS CHATTERER (Argya rubiginosa)
Six in the Kerio Valley, and 2 at Baringo.
BROWN BABBLER (Turdoides plebejus)
Five in the Kerio Valley, and 4 at Baringo.
ARROW-MARKED BABBLER (Turdoides jardineii)
Five at Gibbs Farm, about 10 in the Serengeti, and another 5 at Tarangire.
BLACK-LORED BABBLER (Turdoides sharpei)
Six at Naabi Hill as we ate our picnic lunch, and then another 8 there as we checked out of the park.
NORTHERN PIED-BABBLER (Turdoides hypoleuca) [E]
Five at Tarangire.
RED-BILLED OXPECKER (Buphagus erythrorynchus)
Small numbers at Nairobi NP, Tarangire, Nakuru, Bogoria, and The Ark; in all we saw about 50.
YELLOW-BILLED OXPECKER (Buphagus africanus)
Good looks at 3 on buffalo in Ngorongoro Crater, and 1 on a giraffe in the Serengeti, others were seen in flight.
WATTLED STARLING (Creatophora cinerea)
Common in the Serengeti and at Tarangire, with a total of about 800 and often moving along with big game especially buffalo.
RED-WINGED STARLING (Onychognathus morio)
Two at Gibbs Farm, 10 around our lodge at Tarangire, and 2 at Iten.
BRISTLE-CROWNED STARLING (Onychognathus salvadorii)
Very local Kenya, so we were lucky to see 4 along the cliffs at Baringo.
STUHLMANN'S STARLING (Poeoptera stuhlmanni)
About 25 at Kakamega.
HILDEBRANDT'S STARLING (Lamprotornis hildebrandti) [E]
Great looks in the Serengeti, where we saw about 150.
RUEPPELL'S STARLING (Lamprotornis purpuroptera)
About 30 in the Serengeti, 20 at Naivasha and Nakuru, and 100 in the Baringo-Bogoria area.
ASHY STARLING (Lamprotornis unicolor) [E]
We saw about 130 of this very localized Tanzanian endemic at Tarangire.
SUPERB STARLING (Lamprotornis superbus)
Common and widespread with a total of about 750.
GREATER BLUE-EARED STARLING (Lamprotornis chalybaeus)
About a dozen at Tarangire, 8 at Nakuru, and another dozen in the Kerio Valley.
ABYSSINIAN THRUSH (ABYSSINIAN) (Turdus abyssinicus abyssinicus)
Two at The Residences, 1 at Nakuru, 2 at Thomson's Falls, and 2 at The Ark.
AFRICAN THRUSH (Turdus pelios)
One at Nakuru, 2 at Kakamega, and 1 in the Kerio Valley.
AFRICAN DUSKY FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa adusta)
Two at Gibbs Farm, and 1 near Eldoret.
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)
Four singles were seen in four different widespread areas – presumably all heading north to the Palearctic.
SWAMP FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa aquatica)
One at Lake Victoria, and 1 at a papyrus swamp near Eldoret.
AFRICAN GRAY FLYCATCHER (Bradornis microrhynchus)
Six in the Serengeti.
GRAY TIT-FLYCATCHER (Fraseria plumbea)
One at Baringo.
ASHY FLYCATCHER (Fraseria caerulescens) [*]
Heard at Tarangire Sopa Lodge.
SILVERBIRD (Melaenornis semipartitus)
Nice looks at 5 in the Serengeti, and 1 at Tarangire.
NORTHERN BLACK-FLYCATCHER (Melaenornis edolioides)
Three in the Kerio Valley.
SOUTHERN BLACK-FLYCATCHER (Melaenornis pammelaina)
Two at Sagana.
WHITE-EYED SLATY-FLYCATCHER (Melaenornis fischeri)
Widespread in the highlands, with a total of about 35.
RED-BACKED SCRUB-ROBIN (Cercotrichas leucophrys)
Four at the bottom of the Crater Highlands.
CAPE ROBIN-CHAT (Cossypha caffra)
One at the top of Ngorongoro Crater, 4 at Thomson's Falls, and 6 in The Ark area.
BLUE-SHOULDERED ROBIN-CHAT (Cossypha cyanocampter)
Heard in the thick undergrowth (and seen fly across a trail) next to Rondo Retreat.
RUEPPELL'S ROBIN-CHAT (Cossypha semirufa)
One for some of the group at The Residences.
WHITE-BROWED ROBIN-CHAT (Cossypha heuglini)
About 10 in the Gibbs Farm to Ngorongoro area, 4 at Naivasha and Nakuru, and another 4 at Kakamega.
SPOTTED MORNING-THRUSH (Cichladusa guttata)
Singles at Olduvai Gorge and the Serengeti Seronera Visitor Center, and then 4 in the Kerio Valley.
LITTLE ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola rufocinereus)
One at a quarry near Kiawara.
RUFOUS-TAILED ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola saxatilis)
Great looks at a male in fabulous plumage along the Baringo-Nakuru road.
WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra)
Two at Nakuru.
AFRICAN STONECHAT (Saxicola torquatus)
Two along the road above Ngorongoro Crater.
MOCKING CLIFF-CHAT (Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris)
We saw a male on the roof of our lodge at Nakuru.
NORTHERN ANTEATER-CHAT (Myrmecocichla aethiops)
Six in Ngorongoro Crater, and about 20 at Nakuru.
NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Singles at Nairobi NP and Nakuru.
CAPPED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe pileata)
Four in Ngorongoro Crater, and about 20 in the Serengeti.
ISABELLINE WHEATEAR (Oenanthe isabellina)
Two at Nairobi NP, and 1 in the Serengeti.
PIED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe pleschanka)
One at Nakuru.
BROWN-TAILED CHAT (Oenanthe scotocerca)
One along the cliffs at Baringo.
ABYSSINIAN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe lugubris schalowi)
This form is often split as Schalow's Wheatear; we saw 3 as we made the descent in to Ngorongoro Crater.
EASTERN VIOLET-BACKED SUNBIRD (Anthreptes orientalis)
Four at Baringo.
GREEN-HEADED SUNBIRD (Cyanomitra verticalis)
Often the head shines blue; we saw 2 in the Kakamega Forest.
OLIVE SUNBIRD (Cyanomitra olivacea)
One at Kakamega.
SCARLET-CHESTED SUNBIRD (Chalcomitra senegalensis)
Widespread in small numbers, with a total of about a dozen.
HUNTER'S SUNBIRD (Chalcomitra hunteri)
We saw a single male at Baringo.
TACAZZE SUNBIRD (Nectarinia tacazze)
Fabulous close looks at 3 males at Thomson's Falls Lodge.
BRONZE SUNBIRD (Nectarinia kilimensis)
Another widespread sunbird, but only seen in small numbers; we had a total of about 45.
GOLDEN-WINGED SUNBIRD (Drepanorhynchus reichenowi)
Three along the rim of Ngorongoro Crater, and 6 in The Ark area.
NORTHERN DOUBLE-COLLARED SUNBIRD (Cinnyris reichenowi)
Four at Thomson's Falls and the entrance to the Aberdare NP.
EASTERN DOUBLE-COLLARED SUNBIRD (Cinnyris mediocris) [E]
Four at Ngorongoro, and 15 in The Ark area.
BEAUTIFUL SUNBIRD (Cinnyris pulchellus)
One at Olduvai Gorge, 2 in the Serengeti, and about 20 in the Kerio Valley and the Baringo-Bogoria area.
MARIQUA SUNBIRD (Cinnyris mariquensis)
One at Naivasha, and 3 at Nakuru.
RED-CHESTED SUNBIRD (Cinnyris erythrocercus)
Brief, but good looks at a male at Lake Victoria.
VARIABLE SUNBIRD (Cinnyris venustus)
Two at The Residences, 2 at Nairobi NP, 8 around Gibbs Farm, 3 at Ngorongoro, and 6 in the Serengeti.
WHITE-BILLED BUFFALO-WEAVER (Bubalornis albirostris)
About 20 in the Baringo-Bogoria area.
RED-BILLED BUFFALO-WEAVER (Bubalornis niger)
Six at Tarangire.
WHITE-HEADED BUFFALO-WEAVER (Dinemellia dinemelli)
These colorful buffalo-weavers were common from Ngorongoro to Serengeti, and at Tarangire.
SPECKLE-FRONTED WEAVER (Sporopipes frontalis)
About 20, mainly at the Serengeti Seronera Visitor Center.
WHITE-BROWED SPARROW-WEAVER (Plocepasser mahali)
Eight at Tarangire, 10 at Naivasha, and 60+ in the Kerio Valley to Baringo-Bogoria area.
RUFOUS-TAILED WEAVER (Histurgops ruficauda) [E]
A dozen at Ngorongoro Crater, and about 80 in the Serengeti, and 60 at Tarangire.
GRAY-HEADED SOCIAL-WEAVER (Pseudonigrita arnaudi)
About 20 at the Serengeti Seronera Visitor Centre.
RED-HEADED MALIMBE (Malimbus rubricollis)
Great long looks at a bird feeding on a mossy tree trunk in Kakamega Forest.
RED-HEADED WEAVER (Anaplectes rubriceps)
One at Naabi Hill, and 1 at Naivasha.
BAGLAFECHT WEAVER (Ploceus baglafecht)
Widespread in the highlands; with a total of about 130.
LITTLE WEAVER (Ploceus luteolus)
We saw a single male in the Kerio Valley.
SLENDER-BILLED WEAVER (Ploceus pelzelni)
One in the papyrus at Lake Victoria.
BLACK-NECKED WEAVER (Ploceus nigricollis)
We saw a single male at the Serengeti Seronera Visitor Centre.
SPECTACLED WEAVER (Ploceus ocularis)
Two at The Residences, 2 near Gibbs Farm, and 4 at Ngorongoro.
BLACK-BILLED WEAVER (Ploceus melanogaster)
One near the river at Kakamega.
AFRICAN GOLDEN-WEAVER (Ploceus subaureus)
Four at Sagana.
HOLUB'S GOLDEN-WEAVER (Ploceus xanthops)
Four at Gibbs Farm, and 1 in the bottom of Ngorongoro Crater.
NORTHERN BROWN-THROATED WEAVER (Ploceus castanops)
Two along the shore of Lake Victoria.
NORTHERN MASKED-WEAVER (Ploceus taeniopterus)
One at Baringo.
LESSER MASKED-WEAVER (Ploceus intermedius)
Thirty were nest building at Olduvai Gorge, and then another 120+ (also at breeding colonies) in the Serengeti, and 30 at Baringo.
VITELLINE MASKED-WEAVER (Ploceus vitellinus)
One at Olduvai Gorge, 2 in the Serengeti, 2 in the Kerio Valley, and 1 at Baringo.
SPEKE'S WEAVER (Ploceus spekei)
About 160 in the Ngorongoro-Serengeti area, 6 at Naivasha, and about a dozen 6 at Nakuru.
VIEILLOT'S WEAVER (Ploceus nigerrimus)
About 10 in the grounds of Rondo Retreat.
VILLAGE WEAVER (Ploceus cucullatus)
Forty in the Serengeti, 4 at Nakuru, 10 at Lake Victoria, and 30 at Baringo.
BLACK-HEADED WEAVER (Ploceus melanocephalus)
Twenty at Lake Victoria.
GOLDEN-BACKED WEAVER (Ploceus jacksoni)
Two males coming into breeding plumage at Baringo.
FOREST WEAVER (Ploceus bicolor)
Six at Kakamega.
BROWN-CAPPED WEAVER (Ploceus insignis)
One at Kakamega.
SOUTHERN RED BISHOP (Euplectes orix)
Eight in the dry farmlands south of Arusha, and 2 in full breeding plumage in the Serengeti.
BLACK BISHOP (Euplectes gierowii friederichseni)
Two near Gibbs Farm, 1 at Olduvai Gorge, and 1 on the way to Tarangire.
YELLOW BISHOP (Euplectes capensis)
We saw a male along the rim of Ngorongoro Crater.
WHITE-WINGED WIDOWBIRD (Euplectes albonotatus)
About 90 near the Serena Serengeti Lodge.
LONG-TAILED WIDOWBIRD (Euplectes progne)
About a dozen at Nakuru.
GROSBEAK WEAVER (Amblyospiza albifrons)
Ten were nest building in the reedy pond at Gibbs Farm.
GRAY-HEADED SILVERBILL (Spermestes griseicapilla)
One near the hippo pools in the Serengeti.
BRONZE MANNIKIN (Spermestes cucullata)
Eight at Nairobi, and 2 in the Serengeti.
BLACK-AND-WHITE MANNIKIN (BLACK-AND-WHITE) (Spermestes bicolor poensis)
Six at Kakamega.
YELLOW-BELLIED WAXBILL (Coccopygia quartinia)
Some of the group saw 2 in front of the Ngorongoro Serena Lodge.
GRAY-HEADED NIGRITA (Nigrita canicapillus)
Two at Kakamega.
BLACK-FACED WAXBILL (Brunhilda erythronotos)
Five at Olduvai Gorge.
CRIMSON-RUMPED WAXBILL (Estrilda rhodopyga)
Four at Nakuru.
QUAILFINCH (Ortygospiza atricollis)
After brief looks while repeatedly landing in front of our vehicle in the Serengeti we finally all got good looks.
PURPLE GRENADIER (Granatina ianthinogaster)
Small numbers in the dry acacia country between the Gibbs Farm area and the Serengeti.
RED-CHEEKED CORDONBLEU (Uraeginthus bengalus)
Widespread in small numbers; in all we saw about 80.
BLUE-CAPPED CORDONBLEU (Uraeginthus cyanocephalus)
Two at Naabi Hill, and 2 in the Seronera area of the Serengeti.
RED-HEADED BLUEBILL (Spermophaga ruficapilla)
Two at Kakamega.
GREEN-WINGED PYTILIA (Pytilia melba)
We saw a pair near the cliffs at Baringo.
RED-BILLED FIREFINCH (Lagonosticta senegala)
Widespread in small numbers, with a total of about 60.
PIN-TAILED WHYDAH (Vidua macroura)
About 30 in the Serengeti Serena area, and 1 at Tarangire.
EASTERN PARADISE-WHYDAH (Vidua paradisaea)
Amazing looks at a flock of about 50 (with many males in breeding plumage) in the Serengeti Serena area.
STEEL-BLUE WHYDAH (Vidua hypocherina)
Another whydah seen in the Serengeti Serena area – in all we saw about 20 which also had males in breeding plumage.
STRAW-TAILED WHYDAH (Vidua fischeri)
This really was a great tour for whydahs, and we saw at least a dozen of these, and yet again with males in breeding plumage!
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
Small numbers in a variety of scattered towns, villages and gas stations.
KENYA RUFOUS SPARROW (Passer rufocinctus)
Four at Olduvai Gorge, 2 at Nakuru, and 2 at Kiawara.
NORTHERN GRAY-HEADED SPARROW (Passer griseus)
Two near Kakamega.
PARROT-BILLED SPARROW (Passer gongonensis)
Six at Baringo.
SWAHILI SPARROW (Passer suahelicus)
One on the way to Gibbs Farm, and then about 80 in the Ngorongoro-Serengeti and Tarangire areas.
CHESTNUT SPARROW (Passer eminibey)
We saw a single male in breeding plumage near the Serengeti Serena Lodge.
YELLOW-SPOTTED BUSH SPARROW (Gymnoris pyrgita)
Formerly known as Yellow-spotted Petronia, we saw 1 at Baringo.
CAPE WAGTAIL (Motacilla capensis)
One in a papyrus swamp near Eldoret.
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla flava)
Eight in Ngorongoro Crater, 4 at Naivasha, and 7 at Nakuru.
AFRICAN PIED WAGTAIL (Motacilla aguimp)
Small numbers away from forested areas; in all we saw about 40.
AFRICAN PIPIT (Anthus cinnamomeus)
Two at Nairobi NP, 2 at Ngorongoro, and 30 in the Serengeti.
PLAIN-BACKED PIPIT (Anthus leucophrys)
Four at Nairobi NP.
TREE PIPIT (Anthus trivialis)
One at the gate to the Aberdare NP, and then a second bird near there.
YELLOW-THROATED LONGCLAW (Macronyx croceus)
Two in the Serengeti grasslands, and then 4 at Nakuru.
ROSY-THROATED LONGCLAW (Macronyx ameliae)
Two in Ngorongoro Crater, and 1 in the Serengeti.
AFRICAN CITRIL (Crithagra citrinelloides kikuyensis)
Singles at Thomson's Falls and The Ark.
SOUTHERN CITRIL (Crithagra hyposticta)
Six at the top of Ngorongoro Crater, 1 at Kakamega, and 4 at Iten.
REICHENOW'S SEEDEATER (Crithagra reichenowi)
Two in the Serengeti.
WHITE-BELLIED CANARY (Crithagra dorsostriata)
Six at the bottom of the Crater Highlands, and 2 in the Serengeti.
STREAKY SEEDEATER (Crithagra striolata)
Six in the Gibbs Farm to Ngorongoro area, and 2 at The Ark.
THICK-BILLED SEEDEATER (Crithagra burtoni)
Two at Gibbs Farm.
YELLOW-CROWNED CANARY (Serinus flavivertex)
Six along the road to The Ark.
GOLDEN-BREASTED BUNTING (Emberiza flaviventris)
One at the bottom of the Crater Highlands.
WAHLBERG'S EPAULETTED FRUIT BAT (Epomophorus wahlbergi)
About the 30 at the entrance to Nairobi NP.
YELLOW-WINGED BAT (Lavia frons)
One at the Serengeti Seronera Visitor Center, and 1 at Tarangire.
BLUE MONKEY (Cercopithecus mitis)
One at Gibbs Farm, and about 70 at Kakamega Forest.
BLACK-CHEEKED WHITE-NOSED MONKEY (Cercopithecus ascanius)
Four at Kakamega.
BLACK-FACED VERVET MONKEY (Cercopithecus aethiops)
Common and widespread, with a total of about 600.
OLIVE BABOON (Papio anubis)
Widespread throughout the tour; in all we saw about 750.
MANTLED GUEREZA (Colobus guereza)
Also known as Black and White Colobus; we saw about 30 at Kakamega.
CAPE HARE (Lepus capensis)
One at Baringo.
UNSTRIPED GROUND SQUIRREL (Xerus rutilus)
Singles at Tarangire, Kerio Valley, and Bogoria.
OCHRE BUSH SQUIRREL (Paraxerus ochraceus)
Two at The Residences, 6 at Tarangire, and about 6 in the Kerio Valley.
RED-LEGGED SUN SQUIRREL (Heliosciurus rufobrachium)
Four at Kakamega.
NUTRIA (Myocastor coypus) [I]
One at The Ark.
BLACK-BACKED JACKAL (Canis mesomelas)
Three at Tarangire.
COMMON JACKAL (Canis aureus)
One in the bottom of Ngorongoro Crater, and 4 in the Naabi Hill to Ndutu area.
COMMON (SMALL-SPOTTED) GENET (Genetta genetta)
Four at Ndutu Safari Lodge.
LARGE-SPOTTED GENET (Genetta tigrina)
Two with a young one at The Ark.
EGYPTIAN MONGOOSE (Herpestes ichneumon)
One crossed the road during our first morning at Kakamega.
SLENDER MONGOOSE (Herpestes sanguineus)
Two singles in the Serengeti, 1 near Bogoria, and 1 in the Aberdare NP.
BANDED MONGOOSE (Mungos mungo)
Eight at the Serengeti Seronera Visitor Center, and about a dozen at Tarangire.
EASTERN DWARF MONGOOSE (Helogale hirtula)
Eight at Serengeti Serena Lodge, and 6 at Tarangire.
SPOTTED HYAENA (Crocuta crocuta)
Four in Ngorongoro Crater, a total of about 38 in the Serengeti, and 7 at The Ark.
LEOPARD (Panthera pardus)
Great close looks at 1 resting in a sausage tree in the Serengeti.
LION (Panthera leo)
Great looks at males, females, and cubs, as we made drives across the savanna in Nairobi NP, Ngorongoro, the Serengeti, and at Tarangire; we had a total of 43.
CHEETAH (Acinonyx jubatus)
Fabulous looks at 2 eating a freshly killed young wildebeest at Tarangire.
AFRICAN BUSH ELEPHANT (Loxodonta africana)
By far the most were at Tarangire, where we saw at least 650, but we also saw them near Gibbs Farm, at Ngorongoro, in the Serengeti, and at The Ark.
ROCK HYRAX (Procavia capensis)
Two at Ngorongoro, and 30+ at Nakuru, 4 at Iten, and 1 at Baringo.
BUSH (YELLOW-SPOTTED) HYRAX (Heterohyrax brucei)
Three in the Serengeti, and about 150 at Tarangire.
TREE HYRAX (Dendrohyrax arboreus) [*]
Heard at The Residences.
BURCHELL'S ZEBRA (Equus burchelli)
Very common and widespread in the open grasslands; in all we saw about 9000.
BLACK RHINOCEROS (Diceros bicornis)
Five at the bottom of Ngorongoro Crater.
WHITE RHINOCEROS (Ceratotherium simum) [I]
Four at Nairobi NP.
WARTHOG (Phacochoerus aethiopicus)
Widespread in open country, with a total of about 170.
GIANT FOREST HOG (Hylochoerus meinertzhageni)
Seven along the track to The Ark.
HIPPOPOTAMUS (Hippopotamus amphibius)
About 50 at Nairobi NP, 40 in Ngorongoro Crater, 220 at several waterholes in the Serengeti, and 35 at Naivasha.
COMMON GIRAFFE (Giraffa camelopardalis)
Widespread in the grasslands with acacia trees; in all we saw about 245.
ROTHSCHILD'S GIRAFFE (Giraffa rothschildi)
We saw 5 of these endangered giraffes at Nakuru.
BUSHBUCK (Tragelaphus scriptus)
Nine at The Ark.
COMMON ELAND (Taurotragus oryx)
Fifty in the Ngorongoro area.
AFRICAN BUFFALO (Syncerus caffer)
Widespread, with a total of about 2200.
COMMON WATERBUCK (Kobus ellipsiprymnus)
About 85 at Tarangire.
DEFASSA WATERBUCK (Kobus defassa)
One at Naivasha (from the boat), and 40 at Nakuru.
TOPI (Damaliscus lunatus)
About 45 in the Serengeti.
HARTEBEEST (KONGONI) (Alcelaphus buselaphus)
Also known as Coke's Hartebeest, we saw 30 at Nairobi NP, 50 in the Serengeti, and 7 at Tarangire.
BLUE WILDEBEEST (Connochaetes taurinus)
Sixty at Nairobi NP, 4000 at Ngorongoro, 500 at Tarangire, and hundreds of thousands in the Naabi Hill-Ndutu area.
KLIPSPRINGER (Oreotragus oreotragus)
One on a rocky kopjes in the Serengeti.
STEENBOK (Raphicerus campestris)
One in the Serengeti.
SUNI (Neotragus moschatus)
Good looks at 1 below the bird feeder at The Ark.
KIRK'S DIK-DIK (Modoqua kirki)
One at Nairobi NP, and about 90 between Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti, and Tarangire.
IMPALA (Aepyceros malampus)
Another very common antelope away from forested areas; in all we saw about 2300.
THOMSON'S GAZELLE (Gazella thomsoni)
Preferring the short grass plains, we saw at least 12,000.
GRANT'S GAZELLE (Gazella granti)
Another widespread antelope of open plains and often preferring dry areas; in total we saw about 2500.
Reptiles seen on the tour included;
Nile Crocodile; 3 at Nairobi NP.
Tropical House Gecko; small numbers at Gibbs Farm, Tarangire, Nakuru, and Bogoria.
Blue-headed Agama; 1 in Ngorongoro Crater, and about 6 in the Serengeti.
Mwanza Rock Agama; about a dozen at Olduvai Gorge and in the Serengeti area.
African Rock Python; 1, high in a tree at Tarangire.
Leopard Tortoise; singles at Olduvai Gorge, and Tarangire, and 2 in the Baringo-Bogoria area.
Totals for the tour: 444 bird taxa and 51 mammal taxa