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Field Guides Tour Report
Jun 13, 2015 to Jun 29, 2015
Marcelo Padua

A pair of Scarlet Macaws flies by our group at Cristalino Jungle Lodge. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

As a tour guide, I am often asked if I don’t get tired of doing the same tours over and over again; I always answer "no", as each tour is completely different from the previous one. This year’s Alta Floresta and Pantanal tour is proof that I’m not lying, as it was like no tour I had ever led before. We started things at Chapada dos Guimaraes, a well-known birding destination just a few kilometers from Cuiaba. Though there were plenty of the usual suspects that we hope to find at this site, such as White-banded and White-rumped tanagers, Plain-crested Elaenia, Plumbeous Seedeater and Pale-breasted Spinetail, we also came across a variety of birds that are rarely seen, including Crowned Eagle, Checkered Woodpecker and the endangered Yellow-faced Parrot, so we were off to an auspicious start.

Cristalino was next, and forest birding is in an entirely different ball game. The dark understory makes it even harder to see birds that are shy by nature, and the canopy is so far up that even the most colorful birds sometimes look like dark spots in the sky. Fortunately, the two observation towers at Cristalino leveled the playing field for us, and with fruiting trees close to both of them, we struck gold, as a myriad of tanagers, toucans, toucanets, aracaris, cotingas and parrots came in for close inspection by our group. In the understory, unusual levels of understory flock activity allowed us to study those antbirds one by one in the many days that we walked the forest. While mixed species flocks are the bread and butter of forest birding, antswarms are the feast for the hungry birder, and we were extremely lucky to find one that produced incredible looks at the extremely localized Bare-eyed Antbird and the army ant specialist White-chinned Woodcreeper. There are plenty of birds that do not partake in such gatherings and so we needed to work hard to find them, an effort that was well rewarded by great looks at birds such as Pavonine Quetzal, Zigzag Heron, Musician Wren, Razor-billed Curassow, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Brown-banded Puffbird and the elusive Dark-winged Trumpeter, which we found on a couple of occasions. Once again Cristalino had been kind to us.

Our last stop was the famous Pantanal and it was here that our tour went from great to extraordinary. The profusion of birds, and the ease with which they were seen, was refreshing after our many days of forest birding, quickly slowing our pace and preparing us for what would be the one of the most thrilling days I ever had in the Pantanal. It started as any other day in the Pantanal, with Chaco Chachalacas announcing the start of a new day while Hyacinth Macaws called loudly from a nearby palm tree. We took advantage of the early morning activity to bird the grounds of our lodge and enjoyed prolonged looks at a pair of Jabirus building their nest, up-close looks at American Pygmy-Kingfisher and many others, making for a productive morning of birding. After lunch, we began to make our way towards Porto Jofre, where we would spend two nights and hopefully see a Jaguar.

At least that was the plan. But as we cruised down the road, a Jaguar ran across the road. We would have been thrilled with that, if it wasn't for the fact that only four people had seen it -- and two of them were the driver and me. We decided to go a bit further to see if the Jaguar would come back to the road, but sadly, that didn't happen. However, only a few moments later, a smaller individual appeared on the road and we all got great looks at it. This was a rare treat: in the many years that I have guided in the Pantanal, I had only seen a Jaguar on the road a couple of times, so I had just doubled my number of road sightings in a few minutes. This Jaguar ran back into the bushes as a car came in the opposite direction, so we continued on our journey, only to find yet another Jaguar -- this one a nursing female -- again on the road, about an hour later. We turned off the bus and watched in complete disbelief. It walked towards us until it was right in front of the bus; there it sat and licked itself for a bit, then turned around and disappeared out of sight. This day just couldn't get any better -- or could it? We made a stop along the way to bird the last hours of daylight, and while Yellow-collared Macaws flew around and a pair of Crimson-crested Woodpeckers built a nest, we watched an Undulated Tinamou singing in the open just a few feet away from our group. What a way to end a day!

Porto Jofre is famous for Jaguars and guess what: we saw four more, including one killing a caiman, a female with a youngster and a huge male using a tree as a scratching post. In the process, we saw a myriad birds, including Blue-throated Piping-Guan, Cinereous-breasted Spinetail, Pied Plover and more terns and skimmers than we could count.

So no, I don’t get tired of doing the same trip over and over again. As a matter of fact, I can hardly wait to see what next year is going to be like!

Until we meet again,

-- Marcelo

One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

Rheidae (Rheas)

This male Jaguar was the icing on the cake, after we'd seen six individuals in less than 24 hours! Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
GREATER RHEA (Rhea americana) – Seen several times in the Pantanal, where we had fun watching a male doing some serious acrobatics as it was trying to pick Guavas from a tree.
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
CINEREOUS TINAMOU (Crypturellus cinereus) [*]
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) – Sometimes investing the time to try to see a tinamou pays off and this time we hit the jackpot with an individual singing in the open just a few feet away from us.
VARIEGATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus variegatus) [*]
SMALL-BILLED TINAMOU (Crypturellus parvirostris) [*]
RED-WINGED TINAMOU (Rhynchotus rufescens) [*]
Anhimidae (Screamers)
SOUTHERN SCREAMER (Chauna torquata) – Seen on most days in the Pantanal.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
CHACO CHACHALACA (Ortalis canicollis) – Their song is certainly the most charachteristic sound in the Pantanal
SPIX'S GUAN (Penelope jacquacu) – A couple of birds seen along the Cristalino River on the day that we got there.
CHESTNUT-BELLIED GUAN (Penelope ochrogaster) – A pantanal specialty which we saw very well on a couple of days.
BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis) – This is the Piping-guan we saw in the Pantanal.
RED-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cujubi) – These were the ones at Cristalino.
RAZOR-BILLED CURASSOW (Mitu tuberosum) – Seeing this bird roosting twice on the tour was a real privilege. There are plenty of years in which we don't see them at all.
BARE-FACED CURASSOW (Crax fasciolata) – Seen right around the buildings at Cristalino and also in the Pantanal.
Ciconiidae (Storks)
MAGUARI STORK (Ciconia maguari) – This is by far the least common of the storks in the Pantanal but we managed to see three individuals around Piuval Lodge.
JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria) – Seen several times in the Pantanal but the ones that were building a nest around Pouso Alegre certainly put on a show for our group.
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana) – The most common of Storks in the Pantanal.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
ZIGZAG HERON (Zebrilus undulatus) – This species is most active at dusk or dawn so I had very little hope of seeing one when I played a tape in some suitable habitat, but some times it pays off to gamble.
RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum)
COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
WHISTLING HERON (Syrigma sibilatrix)
CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus) – This handsome heron is somewhat common along the cristalino River.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius) – Great looks at them from the boat at Piuval and around Porto Jofre.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)

Zigzag Herons are known for being crepuscular, shy and elusive. I guess this one didn't get the memo! Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

WHITE-FACED IBIS (Plegadis chihi)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)
BARE-FACED IBIS (Phimosus infuscatus)
PLUMBEOUS IBIS (Theristicus caerulescens) – We managed to see all 6 members of the Ibis family that occur in the Pantanal from one single spot in just a few minutes.
BUFF-NECKED IBIS (Theristicus caudatus)
ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja)
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus)
KING VULTURE (Sarcoramphus papa) – Some recent taxonomic work suggests that the king vulture is more closely related to Condors than to vultures.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (AMERICAN) (Pandion haliaetus carolinensis)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
PEARL KITE (Gampsonyx swainsonii) – This minute raptor was seen in flight around the gate of the Transpantaneira.
GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis)
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)
BLACK-AND-WHITE HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus melanoleucus)
BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis)
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis)
CRANE HAWK (BANDED) (Geranospiza caerulescens gracilis)
SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis)
GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga)
CROWNED EAGLE (Buteogallus coronatus) – We were fortunate to have prolonged scope views of this rare raptor.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris) – A great spot by Kathy.
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus)
WHITE-BROWED HAWK (Leucopternis kuhli)
Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)
SUNBITTERN (Eurypyga helias) – Joan spotted this handsome bird on our way to Cristalino Jungle Lodge.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
GRAY-BREASTED CRAKE (Laterallus exilis) [*]
GRAY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus)
Heliornithidae (Finfoots)
SUNGREBE (Heliornis fulica) – Always a hard bird to find but we found a very cooperative individual around Piuval lodge.
Aramidae (Limpkin)
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna)
Psophiidae (Trumpeters)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (WHITE-BACKED) (Himantopus mexicanus melanurus)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus)
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)
COLLARED PLOVER (Charadrius collaris)
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
YELLOW-BILLED TERN (Sternula superciliaris)

Spix's Guan was one of the many great finds we had before we had even reached the lodge at Cristalino. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex)
BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)
PICAZURO PIGEON (Patagioenas picazuro)
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea)
RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea)
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)
SCALED DOVE (Columbina squammata)
PICUI GROUND-DOVE (Columbina picui)
BLUE GROUND-DOVE (Claravis pretiosa) [*]
LONG-TAILED GROUND-DOVE (Uropelia campestris)
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata)
Opisthocomidae (Hoatzin)
HOATZIN (Opisthocomus hoazin)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
LITTLE CUCKOO (Coccycua minuta)
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)
BLACK-BELLIED CUCKOO (Piaya melanogaster)
GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira)
STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia)
PHEASANT CUCKOO (Dromococcyx phasianellus) – It took quite a bit of work but we managed to get incredible looks at this very shy species.
GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major)
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)
Tytonidae (Barn-Owls)
BARN OWL (Tyto alba) – A special treat for Robert and Bev as this was something of a nemesis bird for them.
Strigidae (Owls)
TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba)
GREAT HORNED OWL (Bubo virginianus) – We found a a pair of birds on a day roost. The birds that occur in the area belong to the subspecies nacurutu and they sound and look different from their north american counterparts.
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum)
BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia)
MOTTLED OWL (Ciccaba virgata) [*]
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
NACUNDA NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles nacunda) – This is the largest species of nighthawk in the world and seeing hundreds of them at dusk and dawn is always impressive.
SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis semitorquatus)
BAND-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Nyctiprogne leucopyga)
BLACKISH NIGHTJAR (Nyctipolus nigrescens)
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)
LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis climacocerca)
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis)
COMMON POTOO (Nyctibius griseus) – A great find on the last night of the tour.
Apodidae (Swifts)
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)
AMAZONIAN SWIFT (Chaetura viridipennis)
SHORT-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura brachyura)
PALE-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura egregia)
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)

This Jabiru flew into a nest with a "mouth" full of water to compact the grass it had deposited there just minutes before. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

STRAIGHT-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis bourcieri)
CINNAMON-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis nattereri) – This was Joan's 249th species of hummingbird. A very impressive list indeed!
REDDISH HERMIT (Phaethornis ruber)
BUFF-BELLIED HERMIT (Phaethornis subochraceus)
WHITE-VENTED VIOLETEAR (Colibri serrirostris)
BLACK-EARED FAIRY (Heliothryx auritus)
FIERY-TAILED AWLBILL (Avocettula recurvirostris) – This one gave us quite a bit of work and I almost injured myself in the process of showing it, but we all got pretty good looks at it after some hard work.
BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis)
LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris)
BLUE-TUFTED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster furcifer)
AMETHYST WOODSTAR (Calliphlox amethystina)
GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon lucidus)
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata)
GILDED HUMMINGBIRD (Hylocharis chrysura)
Trogonidae (Trogons)
PAVONINE QUETZAL (Pharomachrus pavoninus) – There are only 5 species of Quetzal in in the world and this is the only one that occurs in Brazil. We were very fortunate to get great scope views of this stunning bird.
BLACK-TAILED TROGON (Trogon melanurus)
GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis)
AMAZONIAN TROGON (Trogon ramonianus)
BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui)
COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris) [*]
Momotidae (Motmots)
AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota) – Seen right around the rooms at chapada dos Guimaraes, this species used to be called Blue-crowned Motmot and was recently split.
BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)
GREEN-AND-RUFOUS KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle inda) – This is most likely the hardest kingfisher to see in the Americas but we managed to see it several times on our tour.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
WHITE-NECKED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus hyperrhynchus)
BROWN-BANDED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus ordii)
PIED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus tectus)

A Savanna Hawk sits right next to the road with its eyes fixed on its prey, completely ignoring our presence. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

COLLARED PUFFBIRD (Bucco capensis) – Excellent scope studies of this shy understory species at Cristalino Jungle lodge.
STRIOLATED PUFFBIRD (EASTERN) (Nystalus striolatus torridus)
WHITE-EARED PUFFBIRD (Nystalus chacuru)
BLACK-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa nigrifrons)
SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
BLUE-CHEEKED JACAMAR (Galbula cyanicollis) – Scope view of this colorful gem.
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda) – Robert spotted one of them perched really low and as a result we got great looks at it.
BRONZY JACAMAR (Galbula leucogastra)
GREAT JACAMAR (Jacamerops aureus)
Capitonidae (New World Barbets)
BLACK-GIRDLED BARBET (Capito dayi) – Great looks at this southern amazonian endemic.
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
LETTERED ARACARI (Pteroglossus inscriptus)
BLACK-NECKED ARACARI (Pteroglossus aracari) [*]
CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis)
CURL-CRESTED ARACARI (Pteroglossus beauharnaesii)
RED-NECKED ARACARI (Pteroglossus bitorquatus) – Yet another endemic of southern amazonia which we saw extremely well from the towers at Cristalino.
GOULD'S TOUCANET (Selenidera gouldii) – I kept hearing the bird vocalizing very close to us from one of the towers but had a hard time locating it, at least until I looked down and realized it was perched on the tower and displaying.
TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco)
WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus cuvieri)
CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos vitellinus)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
BAR-BREASTED PICULET (Picumnus aurifrons)
WHITE-WEDGED PICULET (Picumnus albosquamatus)
WHITE WOODPECKER (Melanerpes candidus) – We simply could not get any closer to them than we did at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus)
CHECKERED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis mixtus) – This scarce Cerrado endemic was a great find at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
LITTLE WOODPECKER (Veniliornis passerinus) – A nice find by Nancy.
RED-STAINED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis affinis)
GOLDEN-GREEN WOODPECKER (Piculus chrysochloros)
GREEN-BARRED WOODPECKER (Colaptes melanochloros)
CAMPO FLICKER (Colaptes campestris)
RINGED WOODPECKER (Celeus torquatus)
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus) [*]
RED-NECKED WOODPECKER (Campephilus rubricollis)
CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos)
Cariamidae (Seriemas)
RED-LEGGED SERIEMA (Cariama cristata) – We had excellent looks at these rather distinctive birds. The family has only two members and this is the only one that occurs in Brazil.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
BARRED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur ruficollis) – A very cooperative individual perched out in the open for us on the day we spent at Alta Floresta.
CRYPTIC FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur mintoni) [*]
COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur semitorquatus) – A great find on our last day in the Pantanal.
BLACK CARACARA (Daptrius ater)
RED-THROATED CARACARA (Ibycter americanus) [*]
SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus)
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans)

You know a trail is going to be good when you see something like this Broad-billed Motmot before you even start to walk. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis) – We had great looks at one individual perched on the roof of Cuiaba's airport.
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus)
GOLDEN-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chrysoptera)
ORANGE-CHEEKED PARROT (Pyrilia barrabandi)
SCALY-HEADED PARROT (Pionus maximiliani)
BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus)
YELLOW-CROWNED PARROT (Amazona ochrocephala)
MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa)
KAWALL'S PARROT (Amazona kawalli) – It is hard to believe that something as loud and big as these parrots were only described in 1989.
ORANGE-WINGED PARROT (Amazona amazonica)
YELLOW-FACED PARROTLET (Forpus xanthops) – This is the first time we see this endangered parrot on this tour, but we got some great looks at a pair of the foraging on a fruiting tree.
WHITE-BELLIED PARROT (Pionites leucogaster)
RED-FAN PARROT (Deroptyus accipitrinus) [*]
CRIMSON-BELLIED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura perlata) [*]
SANTAREM PARAKEET (SANTAREM) (Pyrrhura amazonum amazonum)
HYACINTH MACAW (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus) – This particular tour is marked by an abundance of parrot species. Macaws are particularly abundant on this tour and the Hyacinth Macaw being the largest of them all is certainly an Icon.
PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEET (Eupsittula aurea) – We had so many of them perched on a bare tree that they looked like Christmas ornaments.
BLUE-WINGED MACAW (Primolius maracana)
YELLOW-COLLARED MACAW (Primolius auricollis)
RED-AND-GREEN MACAW (Ara chloropterus)
BLUE-CROWNED PARAKEET (Thectocercus acuticaudatus)
RED-SHOULDERED MACAW (Diopsittaca nobilis)
WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Psittacara leucophthalmus)
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE (Cymbilaimus lineatus)
GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major)
BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus)
RUFOUS-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus torquatus)
CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus palliatus) – This handsome Antshrike is just one of several species we saw right around the lodge at Cristalino, proving that many times you do not have to wonder far to do some great birding.
PLAIN-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus schistaceus)
NATTERER'S SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus stictocephalus)
PLANALTO SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus pelzelni) – Planalto and Natterer's Slaty Antshrike were considered conspecific until recently when a paper split them into five species. The Planalto Antshrike is the one we found at Chapada and the Pantanal while Natterer's was seen at Cristalino.
WHITE-SHOULDERED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus aethiops) [*]
PLAIN ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus mentalis)
SATURNINE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes saturninus)
CINEREOUS ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes caesius)

Large-billed Antwren is a canopy bird, but this male came low, allowing our group to have some great looks at it. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

PLAIN-THROATED ANTWREN (Isleria hauxwelli)
SPOT-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Pygiptila stellaris)
WHITE-EYED ANTWREN (Epinecrophylla leucophthalma)
ORNATE ANTWREN (Epinecrophylla ornata)
PYGMY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula brachyura) [*]
SCLATER'S ANTWREN (Myrmotherula sclateri) – This canopy specialist is rarely seen well as it is tiny and lives high up in the canopy but a surprisingly cooperative bird showed up at one of the towers at cristalino allowing us to see it very well.
AMAZONIAN STREAKED-ANTWREN (Myrmotherula multostriata)
WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris)
LONG-WINGED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula longipennis)
GRAY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula menetriesii)
LARGE-BILLED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus longirostris)
RUFOUS-WINGED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus)
DOT-WINGED ANTWREN (Microrhopias quixensis emiliae)
BLACK-BELLIED ANTWREN (Formicivora melanogaster)
RUSTY-BACKED ANTWREN (Formicivora rufa)
STRIATED ANTBIRD (Drymophila devillei) – This bamboo specialist is always tricky to see and this time was not an exception as we had to work very hard to see it.
SPIX'S WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis striata) – Another species that was considered conspecific with many others and ended up being split into many species.
GRAY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra cinerascens) [*]
MATO GROSSO ANTBIRD (Cercomacra melanaria)
BLACK-FACED ANTBIRD (Myrmoborus myotherinus ochrolaema) [*]
BAND-TAILED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemoides maculicauda)
CHESTNUT-TAILED ANTBIRD (PALLENS) (Myrmeciza hemimelaena pallens) – One of several great birds we picked up at Alta Floresta on the day we spent there.
BLACK-THROATED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza atrothorax)
BARE-EYED ANTBIRD (Rhegmatorhina gymnops) – Seeing this range restricted bird so well while attending an ant swarm was certainly one of the high points of the trip for me.
DOT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Hylophylax punctulatus)
BLACK-SPOTTED BARE-EYE (Phlegopsis nigromaculata) [*]
Melanopareiidae (Crescentchests)
COLLARED CRESCENTCHEST (Melanopareia torquata)
Conopophagidae (Gnateaters)
CHESTNUT-BELTED GNATEATER (SNETHAGE'S) (Conopophaga aurita snethlageae)
Grallariidae (Antpittas)
ALTA FLORESTA ANTPITTA (Hylopezus whittakeri) [*]
THRUSH-LIKE ANTPITTA (Myrmothera campanisona) [*]
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
SPOT-THROATED WOODCREEPER (Certhiasomus stictolaemus) [*]
OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus) – Olivaceous Woodcreeper is a species that is widespread and has many subspecies which will likely be split in the future. The birds we saw are the nominate subspecies.
LONG-TAILED WOODCREEPER (Deconychura longicauda)
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus inornatus)
LONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Nasica longirostris)
AMAZONIAN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (PLAIN-COLORED) (Dendrocolaptes certhia concolor) [*]
BLACK-BANDED WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes picumnus) – We had great looks at one individual that was moving with a mixed species flock. The subspecies of the birds at Cristalino is Transfaciatus.
PLANALTO WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes platyrostris)
GREAT RUFOUS WOODCREEPER (Xiphocolaptes major)

This female Rusty-backed Antwren inspected our group closely to make sure we didn't pose any threats to its territory. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

STRIPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus obsoletus)
SPIX'S WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus spixii)
BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (LAFRESNAYE'S) (Xiphorhynchus guttatus dorbignyanus) – this is the subspecies that we saw in the Pantanal while the birds at Cristalino belong to the Dusky-billed complex.
BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (DUSKY-BILLED) (Xiphorhynchus guttatus eytoni)
RED-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris)
NARROW-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris)
LINEATED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes albolineatus)
STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans)
POINT-TAILED PALMCREEPER (Berlepschia rikeri) – This handsome Mauritia palm specialist is quite scarce around Cristalino but we managed to get great looks at a pair of birds from the boat on the Cristalino River.
PALE-LEGGED HORNERO (Furnarius leucopus)
RUFOUS HORNERO (Furnarius rufus)
RUFOUS-RUMPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor erythrocercum)
RUFOUS-TAILED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Anabacerthia ruficaudata)
GREATER THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus ruber)
RUSTY-BACKED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca vulpina)
RUFOUS CACHOLOTE (Pseudoseisura unirufa)
CHOTOY SPINETAIL (Schoeniophylax phryganophilus)
YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus)
SOOTY-FRONTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis frontalis)
PALE-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albescens)
WHITE-LORED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albilora)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
SUIRIRI FLYCATCHER (Suiriri suiriri affinis)
CHAPADA FLYCATCHER (Suiriri islerorum)
SUBTROPICAL DORADITO (Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis) – These minute flycatchers breed up in the Andes and migrate to the pantanal during the austral winter. We had great looks at one after looking for it for quite a while.
YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus) [*]
FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii)
GREENISH ELAENIA (Myiopagis viridicata)
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)
LARGE ELAENIA (Elaenia spectabilis)
SMALL-BILLED ELAENIA (Elaenia parvirostris) – This is the Elaenia we saw feeding on fruit at the tower at Cristalino. There are few records of this species for the area and the bird most likely showed up there due to the cold front that came from the South while we were at Cristalino.
PLAIN-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia cristata)
OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus) [*]
SEPIA-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon amaurocephalus)
SLENDER-FOOTED TYRANNULET (Zimmerius gracilipes)
PLAIN TYRANNULET (Inezia inornata)

This male Spangled Cotinga's electrifying plumage had us all in awe on our first morning at Cristalino. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

SOUTHERN ANTPIPIT (Corythopis delalandi) – Despite of its name the Southern Antpipit is not an Antbird nor a Pipit, it is in fact a flycatcher which we saw quite well at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
SHORT-TAILED PYGMY-TYRANT (Myiornis ecaudatus) [*]
HELMETED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus galeatus)
WHITE-BELLIED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus griseipectus)
PEARLY-VENTED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer)
RUSTY-FRONTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus latirostris)
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens)
GRAY-CROWNED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias poliocephalus)
YELLOW-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flaviventris)
WHITE-CRESTED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus platyrhynchos)
ROYAL FLYCATCHER (Onychorhynchus coronatus)
FUSCOUS FLYCATCHER (Cnemotriccus fuscatus) [*]
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
DRAB WATER TYRANT (Ochthornis littoralis)
BLACK-BACKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola albiventer)
CATTLE TYRANT (Machetornis rixosa)
LARGE-HEADED FLATBILL (Ramphotrigon megacephalum)
RUFOUS-TAILED FLATBILL (Ramphotrigon ruficauda)
CINNAMON ATTILA (Attila cinnamomeus) [*]
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus)
SIBILANT SIRYSTES (Sirystes sibilator) – The Sirystes was recently split into several species the one we saw is in fact the Sibilant Sirystes and not the White-rumped as our checklist suggested. For more information you can visit the following link to see the proposal that split the species:
RUFOUS CASIORNIS (Casiornis rufus)
GRAYISH MOURNER (Rhytipterna simplex)
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer) [*]
SWAINSON'S FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus swainsoni)
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus)
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor)
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis)
VARIEGATED FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus varius)
CROWNED SLATY FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus) – Also know as "the bird with the longest latin name in the World"
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
AMAZONIAN UMBRELLABIRD (Cephalopterus ornatus) – We made a special trip to look for this bird and it paid of big time with excellent looks at this handsome Cotinga.
SPANGLED COTINGA (Cotinga cayana)
SCREAMING PIHA (Lipaugus vociferans) [*]
POMPADOUR COTINGA (Xipholena punicea) – An Adult male came really close to the tower granting us with unsurpassable looks at this stunning bird.
BARE-NECKED FRUITCROW (Gymnoderus foetidus)
Pipridae (Manakins)
DWARF TYRANT-MANAKIN (Tyranneutes stolzmanni)
HELMETED MANAKIN (Antilophia galeata)
BLUE-BACKED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia pareola regina) [*]
SNOW-CAPPED MANAKIN (Lepidothrix nattereri)
BAND-TAILED MANAKIN (Pipra fasciicauda) – After seeing several females a fruiting tree finally delivered the much wanted look at a beautiful adult male. What a bird!
RED-HEADED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra rubrocapilla)
WING-BARRED PIPRITES (Piprites chloris) [*]
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)

This male Pompadour Cotinga came surprisingly close to the observation tower, giving our group incredible looks at this Amazonian gem. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

BLACK-CROWNED TITYRA (Tityra inquisitor)
MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata)
VARZEA SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis major) [*]
BROWN-WINGED SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis turdina) [*]
CINEREOUS MOURNER (Laniocera hypopyrra) [*]
WHITE-BROWED PURPLETUFT (Iodopleura isabellae) – This species was treated as a cotinga for a long time and it was recently moved to the Tityra family. We had great looks at three individuals feeding near the tower at Cristalino.
GREEN-BACKED BECARD (Pachyramphus viridis)
WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus)
CRESTED BECARD (Pachyramphus validus) [*]
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
RED-EYED VIREO (MIGRATORY CHIVI) (Vireo olivaceus chivi)
GRAY-CHESTED GREENLET (Hylophilus semicinereus) [*]
ASHY-HEADED GREENLET (Hylophilus pectoralis)
DUSKY-CAPPED GREENLET (Hylophilus hypoxanthus) – We had great looks at this canopy specialist, even if there isn't much to look at.
TAWNY-CROWNED GREENLET (Hylophilus ochraceiceps)
SLATY-CAPPED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius leucotis)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
PURPLISH JAY (Cyanocorax cyanomelas)
CURL-CRESTED JAY (Cyanocorax cristatellus) – Great looks at this handsome Cerrado endemic.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
WHITE-BANDED SWALLOW (Atticora fasciata)
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)
BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (FUSCA) (Progne tapera fusca)
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
TOOTH-BILLED WREN (Odontorchilus cinereus) – When I think of Wrens I never think of canopy birds, but this one is the exception.
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon)
THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus hypostictus)
THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus unicolor)
MOUSTACHED WREN (Pheugopedius genibarbis)
BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis)
FAWN-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus guarayanus) – We barely got in to the very restricted range of this Wren, but that did not stop us from seeing it.
MUSICIAN WREN (Cyphorhinus arada) – We saw this Iconic bird very well but most important we heard quite the concert from it.
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus)
GUIANAN GNATCATCHER (Polioptila guianensis)
MASKED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila dumicola)
Donacobiidae (Donacobius)
BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
PALE-BREASTED THRUSH (Turdus leucomelas)
RUFOUS-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus rufiventris)
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)

A fruiting tree near one of the towers at Cristalino produced some great close up looks at birds such as this male Yellow-backed Tanager. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
YELLOWISH PIPIT (Anthus lutescens)
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
MASKED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis aequinoctialis)
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi)
GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (WHITE-BELLIED) (Basileuterus culicivorus hypoleucus)
FLAVESCENT WARBLER (Myiothlypis flaveola)
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CRESTED CARDINAL (Paroaria coronata)
YELLOW-BILLED CARDINAL (Paroaria capitata) – The fact that this is a very common species in the Pantanal does not make it any less spectacular to look at. What a great bird.
BLACK-FACED TANAGER (Schistochlamys melanopis)
WHITE-BANDED TANAGER (Neothraupis fasciata)
RED-BILLED PIED TANAGER (Lamprospiza melanoleuca)
HOODED TANAGER (Nemosia pileata)
WHITE-RUMPED TANAGER (Cypsnagra hirundinacea)
GRAY-HEADED TANAGER (Eucometis penicillata)
FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus cristatus) – Seeing that bird from above makes all the difference in understanding its name.
WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Tachyphonus luctuosus)
WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus)
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo)
SAYACA TANAGER (Thraupis sayaca)
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)
BLUE-NECKED TANAGER (Tangara cyanicollis)
TURQUOISE TANAGER (Tangara mexicana)
PARADISE TANAGER (Tangara chilensis) – Tanagers in the Genus Tangara are colorful by nature but this one takes things to the next level for sure.
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola)
BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata)
YELLOW-BELLIED DACNIS (Dacnis flaviventer) – Kathy was particularly happy to see this one as she had just missed it on a recent trip.
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana)
GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza)
YELLOW-BACKED TANAGER (Hemithraupis flavicollis) – It could not have gotten any closer to us than it did when it came to feed on a fruiting tree near the tower.
CHESTNUT-VENTED CONEBILL (Conirostrum speciosum)
SAFFRON FINCH (Sicalis flaveola)
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)
PLUMBEOUS SEEDEATER (Sporophila plumbea)
RUSTY-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila collaris)
COAL-CRESTED FINCH (Charitospiza eucosma)
RED-CRESTED FINCH (Coryphospingus cucullatus) – Now that is what a red crest is supposed to look like.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)
YELLOW-SHOULDERED GROSBEAK (Parkerthraustes humeralis) – We had great looks at this incredible bird from the outlook at Cristalino.
BLACK-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator atricollis)
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
PECTORAL SPARROW (Arremon taciturnus)

Seeing a Jaguar on the road is a rare treat that our group enjoyed an amazing four times on this tour. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

SAFFRON-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon flavirostris) – The fact that this bird has Sparrow on its name is quite misleading as it does not prepare you for how fantastic this bird looks.
GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis)
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
ROSE-BREASTED CHAT (Granatellus pelzelni)
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
RED-BREASTED BLACKBIRD (Sturnella militaris)
CHOPI BLACKBIRD (Gnorimopsar chopi)
SCARLET-HEADED BLACKBIRD (Amblyramphus holosericeus) – Most certainly one of the most beautiful Blackbirds I know.
UNICOLORED BLACKBIRD (Agelasticus cyanopus)
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus)
EPAULET ORIOLE (Icterus cayanensis)
VARIABLE ORIOLE (Icterus pyrrhopterus)
ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL (Icterus croconotus) [*]
SOLITARY BLACK CACIQUE (Cacicus solitarius)
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus)
OLIVE OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius bifasciatus yuracares)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
PURPLE-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chlorotica)
THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA (Euphonia laniirostris)
GOLDEN-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chrysopasta) – Calling it Golden-bellied is a bit of an over statement as this is probably the dullest species of Euphonia you will ever see.
RUFOUS-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia rufiventris)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)

GREATER BULLDOG BAT (Noctilio leporinus)
SILVERY MARMOSET (Callithrix argentata)
DUSKY TITI MONKEY (Callicebus moloch) – Great looks at these cute primates right behind our hotel in Alta Floresta.
RED-HANDED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta belzebul)
BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella)

This Brazilian Tapir was one of the mammalian highlights of our time at Cristalino. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.

CAPYBARA (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris)
AZARA'S AGOUTI (Dasyprocta azarae)
RED-RUMPED AGOUTI (Dasyprocta agouti)
CRAB-EATING FOX (Cerdocyon thous)
GIANT OTTER (Pteronura brasiliensis) – We had lots of fun watching these incredible mammals on the river.
JAGUAR (Panthera onca)
BRAZILIAN TAPIR (Tapirus terrestris) – We heard one in the forest and rushed to our boat in hopes of seeing it crossing the river. It worked and we had incredible looks at this magnificent animal.
COLLARED PECCARY (Tayassu tajacu)
MARSH DEER (Blastocerus dichotomus)
RED BROCKET DEER (Mazama americana)
BROWN BROCKET DEER (Mazama gouazoubira)


Totals for the tour: 470 bird taxa and 20 mammal taxa