A Field Guides Birding Tours Report

Borneo II 2024

June 18-July 5, 2024 with Megan Edwards Crewe with Jonathan, Sabinas and Shafil guiding

The island of Borneo is a magical place. Though an increasing percentage of the Malaysian state of Sabah is covered in oil palm plantations, there are still vast swaths of primeval forest, cloaked in some of the tallest trees on earth. For sixteen days, we explored luxuriant, tangled lowland jungle and hill forest, venturing even into the heady heights of their great canopies, thanks to a series of fabulous canopy towers and walkways. Via tidal rivers and tiny, meandering streams, we poked into otherwise inaccessible seasonally flooded forest near Sukau. And for the final third of our stay, we climbed into the cool highlands of the spectacular Mount Kinabalu massif, where we wandered through beautiful cloud forest with its masses of mosses and ferns and epiphytes. Throughout it all, there were so many sights and sounds and experiences to enjoy.

We started our adventure with a walk on the grounds of our Sepilok hotel. This gave us our first looks at a variety of common lowland species, plus a confiding pair of Copper-throated Sunbirds (which are restricted to the coast), and multiple Yellow-eared and Spectacled spiderhunters jousting over some bright red berry spikes. A post-dinner outing added leisurely views of a wide-eyed, calling Brown Boobook. We spent the next morning exploring the canopy walkway and several trails at the Sepilok Rainforest Discovery Centre. There, we found our first endemic (a nest-building pair of Dusky Munias) before we even left the parking lot! On the canopy walkway, we found a shouting pair of White-bellied Woodpeckers and a singing male Van Hesselt's Sunbird, while the woodland trails yielded a close encounter with a ridiculously confiding Sabah Partridge, a family of Buff-necked Woodpeckers and an Olive-backed Woodpecker feasting on emerging termites, a couple of diminutive Rufous-backed Dwarf-kingfishers, and a Rufous-winged Philentoma. Then we were off to our next lodge, with a detour to visit the famous Gomantong Caves on the way. After several years of closure-for-refurbishment, the cave's boardwalk trail was open again and we were able to access its vast, smelly interior, with its burgeoning colony of "edible nest" swiftlets -- Black-nest, White-nest and Mossy-nest, all on their distinctive, eponymous nests. A cloudy afternoon led to the early departure of thousands of the Wrinkle-lipped Free-tailed Bats that share the cave with the swiftlets, and their writhing columns brought hunting Bat Hawks and a Wallace's Hawk-Eagle to the feast. Chortling Chestnut-rumped Babblers, a male Scarlet-rumped Trogon and our first Orangutan helped to round out the visit.

We spent the next four days along the swift-flowing Kinabatangan and some of its tributaries, exploring the region on a series of boat trips -- sometimes three a day! The river system is a great place to see hornbills, and we connected well with all eight possible species, including a splendid male Helmeted calling from a tree along the edge of an oxbow lake. A trio of Slaty Woodpeckers made a noisy appearance at the same lake, as did a territorial pair of Bat Hawks that swooped low over the boat as we searched for Dusky Broadbills. We had good looks at multiple flocks of Cinnamon-headed, Pink-necked and Little green-pigeons, watched a Hooded Pitta dance through a stream-side tangle, and found a pair of Storm's Storks perched in a treetop as the sun sank on a golden afternoon. Raptors were a bit thin on the ground, but we did see several soaring Jerdon’s Bazas, a fine adult White-bellied Sea-eagle, a perched Crested Goshawk with prey, a dark morph Changeable Hawk-Eagle and plenty of Wallace’s Hawk-Eagles. We had a great Oriental Bay Owl and three Sunda Scops-Owls along the Tenangang and jammed in on a small group of Bornean Pygmy Elephants (recently ranked as Endangered by the IUCN, with fewer than 1000 remaining) at dusk one afternoon, though we could see little more than their backs from our low position in the boat. Other nice mammal encounters included a trio of Colugos (mom and youngster at the lodge, orange adult along the Kinabatangan), many nose-y Proboscis Monkeys, both Pig-tailed and Long-tailed macaques and a Common Palm Civet that worked its way along the rafters of the dining room on its way to the bar – much to the consternation of the girl working behind the counter that evening! We returned to the Gomantong Caves area to walk the entrance road on a couple of mornings too. This brought us fine Red-naped and Scarlet-rumped trogons, the tour’s only Rufous Woodpeckers, Purple-naped Spiderhunter, showy Ferruginous, Sooty-capped and Black-throated babblers, a charming little Plain Pygmy Squirrel, and outstanding views of a Common Treeshrew that approached to within about eight feet of us. Watching a gorgeous Black-crowned Pitta as it whistled -- alternately inflating and deflating -- was a highlight of one visit.

Then we moved on to Danum Valley, to the luxurious Borneo Rainforest Lodge in the middle of verdant primary rainforest, spotting a quartet of tiny White-fronted Falconets in a leafless tree on our way in. Unsettled weather and an almost complete lack of fruit meant we struggled to find some things -- including the much-coveted Bornean Bristlehead, darn it -- but there was plenty to keep us entertained during our three days in the valley. A fruiting fig over the drive gave us some stupendous, lengthy views of a family of Gray Gibbons our first morning; they had stripped it bare by the afternoon. A male Great Argus called -- impressively loudly -- and tidied his dance floor while we watched from just up the trail. Brown Wood-Owls and Buffy Fish-Owls hunted moths near lights near the staff quarters, and we found an unexpected pair of Oriental Bay Owls along the boardwalk nature trail. Black Eagles soared over the canopy. The shortened canopy walkway and towers brought us eye-level with Black-bellied Malkoha, Green Iora, Sunda Pygmy and Banded woodpeckers, Black Magpies and more. After considerable effort, we finally laid eyes on a Blue-headed Pitta as it crept through the underbrush. Black-throated and Striped wren-babblers proved challenging for most, but a quartet of noisy Dusky Broadbills charging through the canopy were more cooperative. A pair of night drives netted us trio of civets (Masked Palm, Common Palm and Malay), a diminutive Greater Mouse Deer and some larger Sambar, a Leopard Cat, and a gorgeous little Marbled Cat kitten staring down from a roadside tree. We connected with Red Giant and Thomas’s Flying-Squirrels on our second night drive, but the big find was a Marbled Cat (kitten) in a tree right beside the road; what a gorgeous creature! We finished our stay with a super roadside Bornean Crested Fireback on the drive back to Lahad Datu, where we caught our flight to Kota Kinabalu.

The next morning, we made our way to Kinabalu NP via the Crocker Range NP. We left the coast in the dark, arriving at Gunung Alab on a beautiful clear morning. Walking up the hill towards the summit, we picked up a confiding Aberrant Bush-Warbler, hunting Snowy-browed Flycatchers, a pair of Black-sided Flowerpeckers and our first furtive Fruithunter. At the top, fruiting trees attracted plenty of Mountain Blackeyes, Pale-faced Bulbuls, Gold-naped Barbets and our first male Temminck’s Sunbird. With our prime targets in the bag, we retreated to the bus and headed to lower elevations where we added White-bellied Erpornis, Bornean Bulbul, Long-tailed Broadbill and Bornean Leafbird. While we ate our lunch the skies opened, which made our afternoon birding considerably more challenging. Eventually, we pulled the plug and headed for the park - which turned out to be a stroke of luck. We later learned that landslides on either side of Gunung Alab blocked or destroyed parts of the road in both directions shortly after we left, so we could have have been stuck for a considerable while!

Considering that rain or heavy fog continued for most of our time in the mountains – we got only about a 20-minute view of the whole mountain on a single morning, for example – we did pretty well overall for species there. We had Orange-headed and Everett’s thrushes plus a confiding Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatcher on a couple of early morning outings along the park road, a stellar Bornean Stubtail swiveling on its roadside song perch, a family of foraging Whitehead’s Trogons that did everything but land on us, a tooting Sunda Scops-Owl (with an attendant halo of angry little passerines), and some wonderful encounters with Whitehead’s Broadbills both along the park road and just outside our hotel rooms. We spent a couple of early mornings around the Timpohon Gate, with good results: a superbly cooperative Fruithunter near gate itself (thanks to a friendly Brazilian who was birding in the same area), plenty of Mountain Black-eyes and White-faced Bulbuls in the fruiting trees, and a big mixed flock of Chestnut-hooded and Sunda laughingthrushes, Bornean Green Magpies, Bornean Treepies, Bornean Whistlers, a male Black-and-crimson Oriole, and several Sunda Cuckooshrikes swirling around the restroom area. Sadly, though we heard heard plenty of Whitehead’s Spiderhunters, most of us only saw calling pairs rocket past in flight on a few days. We ventured down to Poring Springs one afternoon, hoping to find better weather down below. No such luck, but we did enjoy a third-day Rafflesia keithii flower, a very noisy Indian Cuckoo fledgling being fed by a couple of harried Black-and-yellow Broadbills, a very cooperative Rufous-collared Kingfisher, and a ridiculously tame female Great Argus, which apparently wandered into the “rafflesia trail” area of the park a week or so before our arrival and had yet to find her way back out.

Many thanks to our trio of local guides -- Jonathan, Sabinas and Shafil -- for their able assistance in showing us some of the highlights of this biological wonderland. Thanks too to Karen in our office, for her tireless efforts behind the scenes. And last but far from least, thanks to all of you for your fine companionship (and excellent spotting abilities), making this trip such a pleasure to lead! I hope the list below brings back some good memories, and I hope to travel with all of you again somewhere, some day. Meanwhile, good birding!

—Megan

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant


Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)

RED-BREASTED PARTRIDGE (Arborophila hyperythra) [E]

As usual, we heard far more of these than we saw, but we did connect with a very vocal pair on a darkening hillside along the park road at Kinabalu NP. With patience, we all got looks at the red chest, dark back and very noticeable white spots of this endemic highland species.

BORNEAN CRESTED FIREBACK (Lophura ignita nobilis)

Our first was a furtive female that slipped quietly through the underbrush along one of the riverside trails at BRL before disappearing behind a tangle of fallen branches. We had much better looks at a handsome male that eyeballed us from the roadside -- after Karen somehow spotted it as we bounced past on BRL's rough gravel access road, headed for the airport.

GREAT ARGUS (Argusianus argus)

OH WOW! For days, we'd been hearing the emphatic calls of this huge pheasant ("oh WOW") echoing through the lowland forests. Finding one standing on a rock in the middle of his carefully tended dance floor (which he tidied while we watched) was a real treat -- as was the ear-ringing serenade he let loose shortly after we spotted him. Spooking a female from under the "Rafflesia trail" boardwalk at Poring Springs was a real shocker. She proved remarkably confiding, feeding for long minutes just downslope from where we stood.

SABAH PARTRIDGE (Tropicoperdix graydoni) [E]

Fabulous views of one standing stock-still right beside the Pitta trail at the RDC. We stood there long enough that it decided we weren't a threat after all, and it proceeded to stroll of down the trail in front of us. This is one of Borneo's newer endemics, split from the former Chestnut-necklaced Partridge complex.

CRIMSON-HEADED PARTRIDGE (Haematortyx sanguiniceps) [E*]

We heard these Bornean endemics daily in Kinabalu National Park -- including some very close ones along the park road -- but never actually laid eyes on one.

Podicipedidae (Grebes)

LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)

One floated near the edge of a little pond along the road between Sukau and the Gomantong Caves. This species was considered a vagrant and "possible future colonist" of Borneo until 2018, when a pair first nested on that pond. And they've been there every year since!

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]

Common around Kota Kinabalu and Lahad Datu.

SPOTTED DOVE (Spilopelia chinensis)

We saw plenty of these sprinkled along roadside wires, but our best sustained views probably came in Lahad Datu, when we spotted a few across from the BRL headquarters.

LITTLE CUCKOO-DOVE (Macropygia ruficeps)

Regular, though in small numbers, on Mount Kinabalu. Most were seen in flight (where they reminded people of Mourning Doves), but we did eventually find one singing in a tree near the park road.

ASIAN EMERALD DOVE (Chalcophaps indica)

Unfortunately, our only views of this handsome forest dove were in flight. One zipped across the Menanggul in front of our boat and a second did the same across the Gomantong Caves road.

ZEBRA DOVE (Geopelia striata) [I]

Scattered individuals, including one poking around in the garden of the Sepilok Nature Resort our first afternoon and other rummaging on the roadside near our Java Sparrow flock in Kota Kinabalu. This introduced species is locally common in a few coastal areas.

LITTLE GREEN-PIGEON (Treron olax)

A showy male in a tree right over the RDC parking lot got our early morning visit there off to a good start, and we saw others along the Gomantong Caves road. As its name suggests, this is the smallest of Borneo's green-pigeons.

PINK-NECKED GREEN-PIGEON (Treron vernans)

We spotted a few from our boat along the Kinabatangan River, but our best views came at Prince Philip park, where dozens gobbled berries or winged over on our final afternoon.

CINNAMON-HEADED GREEN-PIGEON (Treron fulvicollis)

Several small groups perched up on treetops along the Kinabatangan River, where the rufous heads, chests and backs of the males made them easy to pick out.

THICK-BILLED GREEN-PIGEON (Treron curvirostra)

Surprisingly, a handful in a fruiting fig tree near the entrance to RDC were the only ones we saw this year.

GREEN IMPERIAL-PIGEON (Ducula aenea)

Very common in the lowlands, with particularly nice looks at several perched pairs along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries. They're big enough that they were regularly being mistaken for raptors until people got used to the size of them!

MOUNTAIN IMPERIAL-PIGEON (Ducula badia)

Best seen on our final morning on Mount Kinabalu, when a pair of these big pigeons cavorted in a tree behind our rooms. Some of the gang also saw one doing its rollercoaster display flight over the forest near Timpohon Gate. Despite its name, this species is found down to sea level in primary lowland forest.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos)

BORNEAN GROUND-CUCKOO (Carpococcyx radiceus) [E*]

Arg. We heard one calling from far out in the forest along the start of the Tenangang River, but couldn't entice it any closer -- despite considerable effort!

GREATER COUCAL (Centropus sinensis)

Heard in many places in the lowlands, with some fine views of a showy pair along the Resang River late one afternoon -- particularly the one that waddled up the long palm frond. This widespread species is found from Pakistan right across most of southeast Asia.

RAFFLES'S MALKOHA (Rhinortha chlorophaea)

First seen at RDC, but our best views probably came along the far end of the BRL entrance road, where we watched a pair scramble up a vine covered trunk.

RED-BILLED MALKOHA (Zanclostomus javanicus)

Fine studies of two along the Menanggul River on our first cruise there; their red bills really glowed in the morning sun! We saw another along the BRL entrance road on our final morning walk there.

CHESTNUT-BREASTED MALKOHA (Phaenicophaeus curvirostris)

Singles on scattered days in the lowlands, including one doing its best bounding squirrel imitation in a tree along the Gomantong Caves boardwalk and another with a handful of smaller Raffles's Malkohas along the BRL entrance road.

BLACK-BELLIED MALKOHA (Phaenicophaeus diardi)

One of our last new birds at BRL was a confiding bird that clambered around in a tree just about eye level from the canopy platform we were birding from. The charcoal chest and belly of this malkoha are diagnostic.

VIOLET CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus)

As usual, we heard far more of these than we saw and unfortunately, our only sightings were of small dots bounding over, singing their distinctive "pee WIT pee WIT" territorial songs.

PLAINTIVE CUCKOO (Cacomantis merulinus) [*]

Heard on many days in the lowlands -- including a VERY vocal one shouting somewhere near our cabins at the Sepilok Nature Resort.

SQUARE-TAILED DRONGO-CUCKOO (Surniculus lugubris)

We heard the rising whistles of this species -- "I'm a drongo-cuckoo" -- at RDC our first morning, but it took until our penultimate day to actually see one. We found one right over the trail at Poring Springs, shortly after spotting the broadbills with their foster chick.

DARK HAWK-CUCKOO (Hierococcyx bocki) [*]

One called repeatedly in the Crocker Range ("Brain fever, brain fever, BRAIN FEVER") while we searched for barbets at the Tambunan Rafflesia Center.

INDIAN CUCKOO (Cuculus micropterus)

A demanding youngster harangued its foster parents -- a hard-working pair of Black-and-yellow Broadbills that were dwarfed by their giant charge. We had long looks at this brood parasite, which is a common resident in lowland and hill forests across the island.

SUNDA CUCKOO (Cuculus lepidus)

We heard this highland species for several days before finally catching up with one -- a singing male that flicked in to land just over our heads along the Kinabalu park road.

Podargidae (Frogmouths)

LARGE FROGMOUTH (Batrachostomus auritus) [*]

We heard one calling from the darkened forest beyond the boardwalk trail at Sukau, but it was quite content to stay where it was.

SUNDA FROGMOUTH (Batrachostomus cornutus) [*]

We heard the soft calls of this rare resident echoing from the dark forest along BRL's Trogon trail, but couldn't entice out to where we could see it.

Apodidae (Swifts)

SILVER-RUMPED SPINETAIL (Rhaphidura leucopygialis)

Small numbers in the lowlands, with particularly nice looks at several dipping low over the Menanggul River on our early morning visit there.

BORNEAN SWIFTLET (Collocalia dodgei) [E]

The birds right around the Timpohon Gate were possibly this species, and those near the summit of Gunung Alab may have been as well (though only Plume-toed register on eBird). This swiftlet differs from Plume-toed by the green (rather than bluish) gloss to its plumage (a somewhat unreliable feature, like the gloss on the heads of Greater & Lesser Scaup) and by the absence of a feather tuft on its hind toe, a feature seen only in the hand. Thanks to bird research teams working at Kinabalu NP (who've been catching and banding the swiftlets there) we now know that the birds nesting around the gate are all Bornean Swiftlets. Unfortunately, the park has modified the gate structure and covered over much of the former nest site!

PLUME-TOED SWIFTLET (Collocalia affinis cyanoptila) [N]

Regular in the lowlands, with some super studies of pointblank birds in a little alcove full of nesting birds along the Kinabatangan River. They were clearly used to the close approach of tourist boats!

MOSSY-NEST SWIFTLET (Aerodramus salangana)

One of the "lookalike" swiftlets (along with the next two species) that inhabit Gomantong Caves. When they're not on their nests, the three species can be extraordinarily difficult to tell apart. Fortunately, we saw some of these on their scruffy nests, which are easily distinguished from those of the next two species by the presence of plant material.

BLACK-NEST SWIFTLET (Aerodramus maximus)

By far the most numerous -- and the largest -- swiftlet in the Gomantong Caves system, with hundreds of them on their nests, visible in the higher reaches of the cavern. Their nests are black because the birds mix saliva with feathers pulled from their own bodies; this makes those nests less valuable than those of the next species.

WHITE-NEST SWIFTLET (Aerodramus fuciphagus)

Some on their gleaming white nests, sprinkled among the more common Black-nest and Mossy-nest swiftlets at Gomantong Caves, with others swirling around "swiftlet houses" along the Kinabatangan. These white nests are the most valuable, and command an astonishing price: $400 US / kilo in 2022!

Hemiprocnidae (Treeswifts)

GRAY-RUMPED TREESWIFT (Hemiprocne longipennis)

A handful seen in flight over the forests at BRL and Gomantong Caves. Their long, pointed tails and long glides with minimal flapping quickly distinguished them from nearby swiftlets.

WHISKERED TREESWIFT (Hemiprocne comata)

Great views of these gorgeous birds when we found singles perched over the BRL entrance road on a couple of days, with another pair perched high above a clearing near the staff quarters there. Unlike the previous species, this one hunts primarily by making quick sallies from a perch.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

WHITE-BREASTED WATERHEN (Amaurornis phoenicurus)

Especially nice views of one bird shouting challenges from a log along the edge of the Resang River late one afternoon, with others heard calling from reed beds elsewhere along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)

LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)

One flew over while we birded in Prince Philip Park on our final afternoon, the last new bird of the tour. This species is primarily a winter visitor to Borneo, though there have been scattered breeding records.

Ciconiidae (Storks)

STORM'S STORK (Ciconia stormi)

A handful of these very rare storks along the tributaries of the Kinabatangan, with our best views coming on the Resang, when we found a pair standing high on a treetop as dusk descended. There are thought to be less than 500 left across their range, with some 150 in Malaysia; habitat destruction is the primary threat.

LESSER ADJUTANT (Leptoptilos javanicus)

Several of these big storks soared over the Kinabatangan and its tributaries, and we found at least seven perched up in treetops late one afternoon as we headed towards the Tenangang River. This widespread species is found from India throughout much of southeast Asia, but its numbers declined precipitously in the 20th century across most of its range.

Anhingidae (Anhingas)

ORIENTAL DARTER (Anhinga melanogaster)

Our first was spotted drying its wings beside the pond near the RDC entrance, and we had others daily along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries.

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)

Best seen along the Resang River late one afternoon, when numerous adults and youngsters left their day roosts and headed out into the growing darkness to hunt. We saw others stepping up through the branches of a tree along the Kinabatangan.

GREAT EGRET (MODESTA) (Ardea alba modesta)

Small numbers hunted along the edges of the Kinabatangan and a few of the larger tributaries.

MEDIUM EGRET (Ardea intermedia)

Dozens foraged at the end of the runway at the Kota Kinabalu airport, seen as we made our way to Prince Philip park on our final afternoon, and we had another near the terminal building at the Lahad Datu airport. Unlike in the Great Egret, the gape line of this species doesn't extend beyond the eye.

PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)

Small numbers over the Kinabatangan and its tributaries, typically towards dusk and in flight. This dark heron is a locally common resident, with numbers bolstered in the winter months by visitors from further north.

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)

JERDON'S BAZA (Aviceda jerdoni)

Two circled over the forest near the Kinabatangan River one afternoon, not far from where we spotted a big Orangutan feeding in a fruiting tree. The pinched base of their wing is a helpful field mark when distinguishing them (in flight) from the similar but larger Wallace's Hawk-Eagle.

CRESTED SERPENT-EAGLE (Spilornis cheela)

Regular in the lowlands, with many seen well -- including our first, which Karen spotted perched low in the forest along the boardwalk out to the Gomantong Caves and one sitting right over the BRL entrance road late one afternoon. The broad white band at the back of their wing makes identifying a flying bird quite easy.

BAT HAWK (Macheiramphus alcinus)

Our best looks definitely came at the oxbow lake off the Kinabatangan, where a nesting pair flew out to make big sweeping circles over the water while we searched for Dusky Broadbills. They were close enough that we could clearly see their golden eyes, even through binoculars! We watched another pair hunting the bats emerging from Gomantong Caves, late in the afternoon of our first visit to the area.

WALLACE'S HAWK-EAGLE (Nisaetus nanus)

Fairly common in the lowlands, with especially nice studies of one perched along the Kinabatangan River one morning -- seemingly unfazed by the chaos of a Proboscis Monkey troop ranging around it.

BLYTH'S HAWK-EAGLE (Nisaetus alboniger)

Brief views of one in flight near the Masakov Waterfall Garden -- a bit of a surprise, given how hard it was raining at the time! This species tends to range higher than the previous one, though it is found from the hills down into the lowlands.

CHANGEABLE HAWK-EAGLE (CHANGEABLE) (Nisaetus cirrhatus limnaeetus)

A very dark bird perched along the Tenangang allowed us some nice views, and we saw others in flight over the BRL entrance drive and on the drive back to Lahad Datu. The dark morph is said to be more common on Borneo.

BLACK EAGLE (Ictinaetus malaiensis)

Singles seen soaring low over the forest at Danum Valley on three different days. This raptor is a canopy-hunting specialist, snatching small mammals, birds and reptiles from the treetops.

CRESTED GOSHAWK (Accipiter trivirgatus)

One flashed in and perched in a tree beside the Menanggul River on our first visit there, allowing us a half minute view before it dropped out of the tree and continued on.

BRAHMINY KITE (Haliastur indus)

Our best looks came early in the tour, when we found a pair of adults perched along the edge of the Kinabatangan River on several days. We also saw one soaring over the oxbow lake, another circling over Kota Kinabalu (on our walk near the hotel) and another (very briefly) flapping past at RDC.

WHITE-BELLIED SEA-EAGLE (Icthyophaga leucogaster)

We watched an adult soar over the Kinabatangan River one afternoon and later saw it (or another) perched in a riverside tree. This species is common along Borneo's coasts, and less so along inland rivers.

LESSER FISH-EAGLE (Icthyophaga humilis)

One made a couple of passes up and down the Danum River, seen only by the very few who were still watching from the BRL dining room deck late on a very wet afternoon. The all-dark tail of this raptor helps to distinguish it from the larger Gray-headed Fish-Eagle.

Tytonidae (Barn-Owls)

ORIENTAL BAY-OWL (Phodilus badius)

One peered from a tree along the Tenangang River, while another called from the dark palm grove across the water. We had even better looks at another pair along the BRL nature trail on our second night walk there -- though it took a bit of maneuvering before we finally found them!

Strigidae (Owls)

REDDISH SCOPS-OWL (Otus rufescens rufescens) [*]

We heard one calling softly from the darkness beyond the Sukau boardwalk during our night walk there -- in the same general direction as the Large Frogmouth.

MOUNTAIN SCOPS-OWL (Otus spilocephalus) [*]

Another heard-only owl, this time from far away up the hill across from the Hill Lodge -- and walking up the road in the darkness didn't get us any closer! Some of the gang heard a much closer one from their beds later the same night.

SUNDA SCOPS-OWL (Otus lempiji)

Three different birds along the Tenangang one evening, with the first sitting nicely for long minutes, allowing us to study it well. We heard its distinctive "water droplet" song from the Sukau boardwalk trail on our night walk.

BUFFY FISH-OWL (Ketupa ketupu)

Regular on our night floats along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries (where the birds are clearly used to the close approach of boats), with another pair hunting from one of the soccer goals in the BRL staff quarters area -- where fish were most definitely NOT on the menu!

SUNDA OWLET (Taenioptynx sylvaticus borneensis)

After hearing one calling (and calling) along the Kinabalu park road for several days, we finally got a look at it when Karen spotted it -- surrounded by a group of agitated little passerines -- in a tree near the road. This species is found only on Sumatra and Borneo, with the subspecies borneensis endemic to Borneo. It was split from the Collared Owlet of the mainland based primarily on differences in vocalizations.

BROWN WOOD-OWL (Strix leptogrammica)

Our first pair was hunting moths around a street light near the BRL staff quarters (right near a pair of Buffy Fish-Owls), and we saw what were probably the same two preening on a day roost a few days later. We spotted another on our last BRL night drive, and a final bird just outside the Liwagu Restaurant on Mount Kinabalu.

BROWN BOOBOOK (Ninox scutulata borneensis)

We heard one calling from the forest behind our cabins as we gathered for our owling excursion at the Sepilok Nature Resort. It took some patience, but eventually it flew in to a much closer tree and called some more, giving us the chance for multiple views each in the scope -- and in Keith's thermal scope.

Trogonidae (Trogons)

RED-NAPED TROGON (Harpactes kasumba)

Lovely views of a male along the Gomantong Caves road. It showed us its front first, then later flew across the road and perched where we could admire its handsome back.

DIARD'S TROGON (Harpactes diardii)

One called loud and long along the Gomantong Caves road on our final visit there, but showed itself only as a tiny smidgeon of red visible among dense leaves. Fortunately, a trio hunting just above the ground near the BRL entrance road proved far more obliging, spending long minutes sitting quietly in one place and allowing us some great scope studies. This is a Sundaland specialty.

WHITEHEAD'S TROGON (Harpactes whiteheadi) [E]

Not one, not two, but THREE of these highly sought endemics along the Kinabalu park road, spotted by Shafil as we drove up towards the Timpohon gate one afternoon. They were busily hunting stick insects and approached to nearly within arm's reach as they searched, completely oblivious to us gawking from the roadside!

SCARLET-RUMPED TROGON (Harpactes duvaucelii)

Our first was a bright male along the boardwalk out to the Gomantong Caves -- great spotting, Ann! Elusive at first, he eventually worked his way into trees right above us. We found another along the BRL entrance drive. This is the smallest of Borneo's trogons.

Bucerotidae (Hornbills)

WHITE-CROWNED HORNBILL (Berenicornis comatus)

A male flew across the Kinabatangan as we headed towards the Menanggul River one morning, perched briefly, then flew back the other way. We saw another in flight over the BRL entrance road. This is an uncommon species on Borneo, found only in low densities across the island.

HELMETED HORNBILL (Rhinoplax vigil)

Yahoo! We finished our sweep of the hornbills with a knockout male near the start of the oxbow lake. After calling from beyond the trees for a while, he flew along the lake and landed in a visible treetop, where he called some more, delighting us and several other boats full of watchers. We saw at least one pair on several days at BRL too -- and heard others calling there too.

RHINOCEROS HORNBILL (Buceros rhinoceros)

Among the most abundant of the tour's hornbills, seen most days in the lowlands -- including nearly a dozen flying in to roost in trees along the Resang and several pairs along the BRL entrance road. It was interesting seeing the variation in shapes and colors of their impressive casques.

BUSHY-CRESTED HORNBILL (Anorrhinus galeritus)

We had especially nice looks at a noisy family group along the Menanggul; seven of them flew back and forth across the river several times, calling loudly. We had others along the Kinabatangan and on the Gomantong Caves road. These small, social hornbills have no white in their plumage.

BLACK HORNBILL (Anthracoceros malayanus)

Small numbers in the early part of the tour, including a pair near the RDC parking lot our first morning, another pair along the Gomantong Caves road, and still more along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries. Several of the males we saw sported bold white eyebrows -- a feature found in about half of the population.

ORIENTAL PIED-HORNBILL (Anthracoceros albirostris)

Another common lowland species, particularly around Sepilok and the Kinabatangan, including our first pair going to roost right behind some of the cabins at the Sepilok Nature Resort and others along the Gomantong Caves road. The broad white stripe at the back edge of its wings in combination with its white belly makes this small hornbill easy to identify in flight.

WREATHED HORNBILL (Rhyticeros undulatus)

A pair along the Kinabatangan (and another which flew over the dining room our last morning) with others along the BRL entrance road. The trio we saw flew past over the forest near the Tambunan Rafflesia Centre certainly excited one of the local guides there, who went scuttling off up the road to try and get a better look. This species is widespread across Borneo, but only locally common.

WRINKLED HORNBILL (Rhabdotorrhinus corrugatus)

Pairs seen perched along the Kinabatangan on two different late afternoons, giving us the chance to admire their colorful bills. We saw another in flight at the far end of the BRL entrance road, on the day we walked from the gate.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

BLUE-EARED KINGFISHER (Alcedo meninting)

Multiple great looks at this gorgeous little kingfisher along the tributaries of the Kinabatangan netted it shared top honors in our "Bird of the Trip" competition.

RUFOUS-BACKED DWARF-KINGFISHER (Ceyx rufidorsa)

Two along RDC's Pitta trail showed really well, until the noisy photographers came along with their giant cameras! We had brief views of another pair zipping along the Menanggul, and another flashed by along the BRL entrance road. This is a common resident in lowland forests of Borneo; the endemic subspecies we saw was "motleyi", which is largely confined to Sabah.

BANDED KINGFISHER (BLACK-FACED) (Lacedo pulchella melanops) [*]

We heard a pair calling from the forest as we walked the Sapa Babandil trail out to the Great Argus lek. Unfortunately, they were far enough away that we couldn't tempt them to come closer.

STORK-BILLED KINGFISHER (Pelargopsis capensis)

Scattered individuals along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries, including one wide-eyed bird on a low branch during our first night float. We saw another along the Danum River on our hike out to the Great Argus lek.

COLLARED KINGFISHER (Todiramphus chloris)

Regular in open areas in the lowlands, especially along roadside wires as we drove through the interminable oil palm groves. This is one of the very few species that thrives in such groves.

RUFOUS-COLLARED KINGFISHER (Actenoides concretus)

A calling bird at Poring Springs proved eminently cooperative, sitting for long minutes on a thin horizontal branch only a few yards into the forest. We certainly attracted quite a crowd as we enjoyed it!

Meropidae (Bee-eaters)

RED-BEARDED BEE-EATER (Nyctyornis amictus)

After hearing one calling (and calling and calling) along one of the trails at RDC, we finally spotted another on the BRL entrance road. It was against the light -- and never sat in one place very long -- but we could see its big head and distinctively curved beak. And hear it again, of course!

BLUE-THROATED BEE-EATER (Merops viridis)

By far the more common of the tour's bee-eaters, recorded nearly every day in the lowlands. The birds hunting around the RDC parking lot on our first morning's outing were particularly cooperative.

Coraciidae (Rollers)

DOLLARBIRD (Eurystomus orientalis)

Small numbers perched up on treetops along the Kinabatangan and some of its bigger tributaries. We saw their flashing "silver dollars" -- bold white patches in their wings -- when they launched themselves off their perches after prey.

Megalaimidae (Asian Barbets)

BROWN BARBET (Caloramphus fuliginosus tertius) [E]

Seen well along the Menanggul, the Gomantong Caves road, the BRL entrance road and near the dilapidated shelter in the Crocker Range -- always in little family groups.

BLACK-EARED BARBET (Psilopogon duvaucelii duvaucelii)

Very common in the lowlands, though far more regularly heard than seen. Our best views came along the Gomantong Caves road, where we found one singing from a treetop and along the BRL entrance road, where we found another shouting challenges. In the scopes, we could see the complicated mosaic of colors on their faces -- and those telltale black "ears". This species was recently split from the Blue-eared Barbet.

RED-THROATED BARBET (Psilopogon mystacophanos)

Another species that was heard throughout the lowlands, but this one was seen only once -- a stream-side bird along the Menanggul. Unusually among Borneo's barbets, females are much less colorful than males, and lack the latter's namesake red throat.

GOLDEN-NAPED BARBET (Psilopogon pulcherrimus) [E]

Multiple fine studies of these handsome endemic barbets, including our first in a bush near the summit of Gunung Alab and an eye-level bird gobbling red berries along the Kinabalu park road.

YELLOW-CROWNED BARBET (Psilopogon henricii)

Heard regularly at BRL, with one seen in a tall fruiting fig near the staff quarters -- great spotting, Ann! From the angle we were seeing it, its blue throat was far more obvious than its yellow crown, at least until it tipped its head.

MOUNTAIN BARBET (Psilopogon monticola) [E*]

We heard several very distant birds singing -- one in the Crocker Range, right before the rain started, and a second somewhere beyond the trees near the Upper Silau-Silau shelter on a very foggy day. Too bad the combination of road washout and landslide put the kibosh on a second attempt at the Crocker Range!

GOLD-WHISKERED BARBET (GOLD-FACED) (Psilopogon chrysopogon chrysopsis) [*]

Arg. We heard this one calling from high in the canopy on multiple days, but could never get the right angle or gap to actually find one.

Picidae (Woodpeckers)

RUFOUS PICULET (Sasia abnormis)

Singles seen well on each of our visits to the Gomantong Caves road with others along the BRL entrance road. These tiny woodpeckers don't have stiff tails and so can't prop themselves against trunks and branches, instead creeping along branches and twigs.

SUNDA PYGMY WOODPECKER (Yungipicus moluccensis moluccensis)

We spotted our first flighty bird along the Gomantong Caves road, but didn't get much of a view. We saw a pair from the BRL canopy walkway and watched as they foraged along several open branches. We had even better views of another at Prince Philip park -- primarily because we didn't have to stand on our heads to look through the scope!

MAROON WOODPECKER (Blythipicus rubiginosus)

We heard a couple of them calling to each other along BRL's Segama trail and caught quick glimpses of another pair chasing through the forest near the Upper Silau-Silau trailhead in Kinabalu NP.

ORANGE-BACKED WOODPECKER (Chrysocolaptes validus)

One tapping away at a tree trunk near the Kinabalu park road allowed leisurely scope views, giving us plenty of time to note all of the salient features that help to identify it.

RUFOUS WOODPECKER (Micropternus brachyurus)

A pair of birds along the Gomantong Caves road flew over a few times before settling into a tree right beside us. The subspecies badiosus is endemic to Borneo.

BUFF-NECKED WOODPECKER (Meiglyptes tukki)

A busy group of five gobbled termites from a decaying tree along the RDC's Pitta trail, completely ignoring our nearby presence.

BUFF-RUMPED WOODPECKER (Meiglyptes grammithorax)

One of these heavily barred little woodpeckers poked and prodded on a tree trunk along the BRL entrance road.

OLIVE-BACKED WOODPECKER (Gecinulus rafflesii)

One worked its way along the trunks and branches of several trees near the RDC's Pitta trail, near where we found our family of Buff-necked Woodpeckers. Its uniformly dark underparts and lack of red rump help to distinguish it from Borneo's flamebacks.

CRIMSON-WINGED WOODPECKER (Picus puniceus) [*]

We heard the loud calls of this sizable woodpecker in a more open area along the BRL entrance road, but couldn't see it.

BANDED WOODPECKER (Chrysophlegma miniaceum)

Our first was in a tree along the Resang River, but our best views came from the BRL canopy walkway, where we watched a pair interacting among the treetops.

CHECKER-THROATED WOODPECKER (Chrysophlegma mentale)

A soggy pair clinging to an equally drenched trunk during a downpour on Mount Kinabalu, seen nicely in the scope from the shelter where we were huddled.

GREAT SLATY WOODPECKER (Mulleripicus pulverulentus)

A trio of birds -- a male and two females -- flew along the end of the Kinabatangan oxbow lake, shouting challenges. This is the world's largest extant woodpecker.

WHITE-BELLIED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus javensis)

Two seen well from the RDC canopy walkway on our first morning, reacting vigorously to the repeated calls emanating from the tape recorder of the Singapore photographers.

Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)

WHITE-FRONTED FALCONET (Microhierax latifrons) [E]

Four perched atop a dead tree on the Danum Valley access road were an unexpected treat on our drive in to BRL -- thanks to the great spotting of one of our drivers, who knew where they liked to hang out.

Psittaculidae (Old World Parrots)

LONG-TAILED PARAKEET (Psittacula longicauda)

Regular in small numbers in the lowlands, typically in flight, where their long, pointed tails made them easy to identify.

BLUE-NAPED PARROT (Tanygnathus lucionensis) [I]

A visit to toasty Prince Philip park on our last afternoon in Kota Kinabalu netted us some fine views of these parrots, which were introduced from neighboring Philippine islands. We had close studies of a couple of pairs as they gobbled fruit from a nearby tree or perched on a conveniently dead snag.

BLUE-CROWNED HANGING-PARROT (Loriculus galgulus)

They do have legs after all! After watching many bullet-shaped flyovers, we finally caught up with some perched birds along the road to the Gomantong Caves, and got some scope views that let us admire their various red patches. The blue crown was decidedly hard to see!

Calyptomenidae (African and Green Broadbills)

GREEN BROADBILL (Calyptomena viridis)

A female perched right beside the BRL entrance road, seen as we walked back towards the lodge from near the gate on morning. We had a male flick back and forth across the road a few times in the same area, though some only heard his soft calls.

WHITEHEAD'S BROADBILL (Calyptomena whiteheadi) [E]

Fabulous views of these gorgeous birds along the Kinabalu park road, after Shafil spotted three flicking through some fruiting trees nearby. We had another trio near Hill Lodge our last morning.

Eurylaimidae (Asian and Grauer's Broadbills)

LONG-TAILED BROADBILL (Psarisomus dalhousiae)

Some great spotting by Dave netted us repeated looks at this handsome broadbill near a dilapidated shelter in the Crocker Range.

DUSKY BROADBILL (Corydon sumatranus)

A quartet of very noisy birds swirled over our heads along the Segama trail as we returned from the Great Argus lek. This is the least common of the "non-green" broadbills, and is almost always seen in groups.

BLACK-AND-RED BROADBILL (Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos) [N]

Fine looks at these handsome birds along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries, including a family of five snuggling on a riverside branch (seen on one night cruise) and another carrying a green leaf to add to its burgeoning nest. We found a number of active nests along the Menanggul -- including one with a fluorescent blue beak sticking out of the entrance hole!

BANDED BROADBILL (Eurylaimus javanicus) [N]

A pair along the Gomantong Caves road on our second morning visit made us work hard before finally showing themselves. They had certainly found a very dense bush to hang out in!

BLACK-AND-YELLOW BROADBILL (Eurylaimus ochromalus)

Easily the most common broadbill of the tour, with good views on multiple days -- including a harried pair feeding a very insistent Indian Cuckoo foster chick.

Pittidae (Pittas)

BLACK-CROWNED PITTA (Erythropitta ussheri) [E]

Patience and persistence paid off in the end, when we FINALLY located a singing male along the Gomantong Caves road. He was sitting higher than many thought he would be, inflating and deflating himself as he whistled his mournful song. We heard others there and at BRL, and saw the round ball of one sound asleep in the underbrush during a BRL night drive.

BLUE-HEADED PITTA (Hydrornis baudii) [E]

This one definitely made us work for it! We heard many calling from the forests around BRL and finally spotted one (after considerable effort!) near the far end of the BRL entrance road. This is another of Borneo's endemic pittas.

WESTERN HOODED PITTA (Pitta sordida)

One along the banks of the Tenangang River took some patience to see as it flitted back and forth from singing perch to singing perch, but we all got there in the end. The big turquoise spots in its wings were certainly eye-catching when it flew.

Acanthizidae (Thornbills and Allies)

GOLDEN-BELLIED GERYGONE (Gerygone sulphurea) [*]

We heard the jumbled high-pitched song of this canopy species on several days -- including from the BRL canopy walkway -- but never laid eyes on the singer.

Campephagidae (Cuckooshrikes)

FIERY MINIVET (Pericrocotus igneus)

A pair in some scraggly trees along the edge of one of the big clearings on the BRL entrance road. This lowland minivet is slightly smaller than the Scarlet, and it has one large wing patch (rather than two discrete ones).

GRAY-CHINNED MINIVET (Pericrocotus solaris)

Common with mixed flocks in the highlands, with some arm's length views around Kinabalu's Timpohon Gate.

SCARLET MINIVET (Pericrocotus speciosus)

The very brightly colored male we saw from the BRL canopy walkway appeared to be this species -- though we got only fleeting glimpses of its wing patches.

SUNDA CUCKOOSHRIKE (Coracina larvata)

Two of these uncommon residents near Mount Kinabalu's Timpohon Gate on our first morning in the park (and three the next day) with another along the Mempening trail. The subspecies normani is endemic to Borneo.

PIED TRILLER (Lalage nigra)

Several flicked through branches or sang from treetops in Prince Philip park on our final afternoon.

Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)

WHITE-BROWED SHRIKE-BABBLER (BLYTH'S) (Pteruthius aeralatus robinsoni)

Common in the highlands, where one or two were part of many mixed flocks we encountered and their loud, ringing song was a regular part of the tour soundtrack. This species has bounced around among several bird families and has been lumped and split and lumped again. Molecular evidence has shown the shrike-babblers to be part of the Vireonidae and not closely related true babblers. Formerly considered to be a distinct species (Blyth's Shrike-Babbler), this is now again considered a subspecies.

WHITE-BELLIED ERPORNIS (Erpornis zantholeuca)

A family group swarmed through trees near the gazebo shelter in the Crocker Range, showing nicely their greenish backs and short crests. Formerly considered to a yuhina, this species is now known to be more closely related to the vireos.

Pachycephalidae (Whistlers and Allies)

BORNEAN WHISTLER (Pachycephala hypoxantha) [E]

Many satisfying looks at this common endemic on Mount Kinabalu, where they were a regular part of mixed flocks we encountered.

Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)

VENTRILOQUIAL ORIOLE (Oriolus consobrinus) [E]

A female near the main lodge building during our soggy afternoon's birding from the dining room deck for some. We had much better looks at others at the far end of the BRL entrance road. This endemic species, which is found only in northern Borneo, was recently split from Dark-throated Oriole.

BLACK-AND-CRIMSON ORIOLE (Oriolus consanguineus)

One gleaning moths around the Timpohon gate one morning was a nice pickup after we'd missed it in the Crocker Range. We found another just over the road at the bottom of the Hill Lodge driveway on our last morning. This insect eater is especially fond of caterpillars.

Artamidae (Woodswallows, Bellmagpies, and Allies)

WHITE-BREASTED WOODSWALLOW (Artamus leucorynchus)

Regular in open country, including dozens dotted on roadside wires, a few on high tension wires over the Kinabatangan River and others around Kota Kinabalu -- particularly at Prince Philip park, where they were hunting from a dead snag near where we found our Blue-naped Parrots.

Vangidae (Vangas, Helmetshrikes, and Allies)

LARGE WOODSHRIKE (Tephrodornis virgatus)

A pair near BRL's frog pond got our final afternoon's walk there off to a good start.

BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER-SHRIKE (Hemipus picatus)

One near the Masakov Waterfall Garden in the Crocker Range on a soggy afternoon. This is the highland replacement for the next species.

BLACK-WINGED FLYCATCHER-SHRIKE (Hemipus hirundinaceus)

A couple with a mixed flock along the Gomantong Caves road on our first morning visit there.

RUFOUS-WINGED PHILENTOMA (Philentoma pyrhoptera)

One flicked over our heads as we watched the little gang of Buff-necked Woodpeckers at the end of RDC's Pitta trail. We decided that Rufous-TAILED Philentoma would also work.

MAROON-BREASTED PHILENTOMA (Philentoma velata)

Three hunted along the BRL entrance road on our first morning's walk out to the canopy walkway and back.

Aegithinidae (Ioras)

COMMON IORA (Aegithina tiphia)

Fine looks at a couple in the RDC parking lot our first morning, with others seen nicely from the Sukau boardwalk and along the Gomantong Caves road. The subspecies found in northern Borneo -- aequanimis -- is found only there, on nearby offshore islands and on the Philippine island of Palawan.

GREEN IORA (Aegithina viridissima)

Easily the more common of the ioras on this tour, seen on most days in the lowlands. The eye-level birds off the canopy walkways at RDC and BRL were particularly nice.

Rhipiduridae (Fantails)

MALAYSIAN PIED-FANTAIL (Rhipidura javanica)

Very common and widespread in the lowlands, with fan-dancing birds seen multiple times every day there. The one snoozing on the reeds during one of our night floats was probably the best sustained look we had at one, because they seldom stop moving when they're awake!

WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL (Rhipidura albicollis)

Daily in the mountains, where we saw them swiveling their distinctive tails as they danced along branches, typically in the company of mixed flocks. This is the darkest of Borneo's fantails.

Dicruridae (Drongos)

ASHY DRONGO (BORNEAN) (Dicrurus leucophaeus stigmatops)

Regular in the highlands, with particularly nice looks at a pair hunting at the summit of Gunung Alab, and of another confiding duo near the Timpohon gate. The subspecies stigmatops is endemic to the mountains of northern Borneo.

HAIR-CRESTED DRONGO (BORNEAN) (Dicrurus hottentottus borneensis)

Also regular in the highlands, including one shouting from an arch on the edge of the Hill Lodge parking lot our first evening there and others gleaning moths off the porches in the morning. As we saw, they're often part of mixed flocks, particularly with Chestnut-hooded and Sunda laughingthrushes.

GREATER RACKET-TAILED DRONGO (Dicrurus paradiseus brachyphorus)

Our first pair appeared along the RDC boardwalk as we searched for the calling White-bellied Woodpecker, showing their distinctive tail rackets as they posed on a variety of perches between sallies after insects. We had others elsewhere at RDC and along the Gomantong Caves road.

Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers)

BLACK-NAPED MONARCH (Hypothymis azurea)

A busy family group swirled around the boardwalk trail out to the Gomantong Caves and we saw others along BRL entrance road and at Poring Springs. This little flycatcher is common in all but the highest forests.

BLYTH'S PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (Terpsiphone affinis)

A female near the Great Argus lek along the Sapa Babandil trail showed well for most of the group.

Platylophidae (Crested Jayshrike)

CRESTED JAYSHRIKE (Platylophus galericulatus coronatus) [*]

We heard one calling along the Sapa Babandil trail as we headed out towards the Great Argus lek, just after we'd spotted the female Bornean Crested Fireback.

Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)

BLACK MAGPIE (BORNEAN) (Platysmurus leucopterus aterrimus)

Our first encounter was a trio of birds sharing space near the White-bellied Woodpeckers at RDC our first morning. But our best looks -- and listens -- came on the BRL canopy walkway, where a long-staying pair foraged in and serenaded from nearby trees. Some taxonomists consider this subspecies to be a separate species.

BORNEAN GREEN-MAGPIE (Cissa jefferyi) [E]

Our second early morning visit to Mount Kinabalu's Timpohon Gate turned up aces when we found a quartet with the flock cleaning moths off the bushes around the lights at the power station. What stunners! This species was split from the Common Green-Magpie.

BORNEAN TREEPIE (Dendrocitta cinerascens) [E]

Regular in the highlands, typically in pairs or small groups and sometimes in the company of laughingthrushes. This is another highland endemic.

SLENDER-BILLED CROW (SUNDA) (Corvus enca compilator)

Common in the lowlands, usually in flight over the forest. As with the previous species, this one is generally seen in groups.

Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)

DARK-NECKED TAILORBIRD (Orthotomus atrogularis)

Great looks at one along the Gomantong Caves road, with another close bird on the BRL entrance road. We saw and heard others elsewhere at BRL.

ASHY TAILORBIRD (Orthotomus ruficeps)

Daily in the lowlands (though sometimes heard only) where they were quite common. We saw them in good comparison with the next species in the parking lot at our Sepilok hotel.

RUFOUS-TAILED TAILORBIRD (Orthotomus sericeus)

The singing bird in the Sepilok Nature Resort parking lot probably gave us our best looks. We saw others regularly elsewhere in the lowlands.

YELLOW-BELLIED PRINIA (Prinia flaviventris)

Common in the reed beds around Kinabatangan's oxbow lake (and along the river), but our best views came in the little fringe of tall grasses along the Danum River, seen from the lawn in front of the BRL dining room.

Hirundinidae (Swallows)

PACIFIC SWALLOW (Hirundo tahitica) [N]

Common and widespread, recorded on every day of the tour -- including burgeoning nests full of chirruping youngsters on the first floor of the main building at Borneo Rainforest Lodge.

Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)

HAIRY-BACKED BULBUL (Tricholestes criniger)

A pair of these small yellowish bulbuls flicked along the edge of the BRL entrance road, showing their big yellow eye rings nicely. We saw others along one of the trails at Poring Springs. The fine "hairs" on its back that give it its name are only visible close up.

YELLOW-BELLIED BULBUL (Alophoixus phaeocephalus)

Seen low along the BRL entrance road on a couple of mornings, gleaning moths from the undergrowth around some of the lights. The subspecies connectens is endemic to northeastern Borneo.

GRAY-CHEEKED BULBUL (Alophoixus tephrogenys tephrogenys)

A few in the group spotted one along the Gomantong Caves road, but our best views came at Poring Springs, where we found a pair near the "Indian Cuckoo intersection". This common lowland species is replaced at higher elevations by the next.

PENAN BULBUL (Alophoixus ruficrissus ruficrissus)

Seen particularly well around Mount Kinabalu's Timpohon Gate, where their white throats gleamed in the early morning light. We had another in a fruiting tree at the Tambunan Rafflesia Centre, and a pair near the Masakov Waterfall Garden. This was formerly considered to be a subspecies of the Ochraceous Bulbul; the subspecies ruficrissus is endemic to Mount Kinabalu itself.

CHARLOTTE'S BULBUL (Iole charlottae) [E]

Regular at BRL, including some feeding on berries in a bush right off the dining room and others gobbling fruits in roadside trees along the entrance road. This is another relatively new endemic, split from the former Buff-vented Bulbul complex.

CINEREOUS BULBUL (GREEN-WINGED) (Hemixos cinereus connectens)

One in a fruiting tree at the Tambunan Rafflesia Centre was seen only briefly before it flushed out of the tree. Its gray back, dark face and greenish wings helped to distinguish it from a nearby Penan Bulbul.

BLACK-HEADED BULBUL (Microtarsus melanocephalos)

A couple along the start of the Tenangang River (where their yellow plumage -- particularly their yellow tails -- was very obvious as they flashed back and forth across the water) and a quartet in a treetop along the Kinabatangan, where they were perched with the light directly behind them.

SPECTACLED BULBUL (Rubigula erythropthalmos)

A couple of youngsters snuggled up together on a branch at BRL had eye rings that were less than convincing for some in the group. Fortunately, we found some adults along the entrance road a few days later.

BORNEAN BULBUL (Rubigula montis) [E]

A busy gang of these social bulbuls swarmed through trees across the road from the shelter in the Crocker Range and others did the same near the Masakov Waterfall Garden. This endemic was previously lumped in the Black-crested Bulbul complex.

OLIVE-WINGED BULBUL (Pycnonotus plumosus)

A few along the Kinabatangan on a couple of days, distinguished by their larger size, darker lores and olive-tinged wings.

RED-EYED BULBUL (Pycnonotus brunneus)

Common in the lowlands, with especially good studies of our first, around the RDC parking lot. We checked a lot of vents looking for Cream-vented Bulbuls -- surprisingly without success!

PALE-FACED BULBUL (Pycnonotus leucops) [E]

Super views of a pair foraging along the roadside at the summit of Gunung Alab, with others feeding on berries near the Timpohon Gate and still more with a mixed flock along the Kinabalu park road. This endemic highland species was recently split from the Flavescent Bulbul.

YELLOW-VENTED BULBUL (Pycnonotus goiavier)

Abundant in open areas in the lowlands, with our best studies probably coming on our first afternoon's walk at the Sepilok Nature Resort. We had others at RDC, from the dining deck at BRL and in various places around Kota Kinabalu.

Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)

YELLOW-BREASTED WARBLER (Phylloscopus montis)

These little "pumpkin heads" were common in the mountains, where they were a regular part of the mixed flocks we encountered.

MOUNTAIN LEAF WARBLER (Phylloscopus trivirgatus kinabaluensis)

And so was this one -- in fact, probably even more common than the previous species! Its high, twittering song was a regular part of the highland soundtrack. The subspecies we saw -- kinabaluensis -- is endemic to the mountains of northeastern Borneo.

Scotocercidae (Bush Warblers and Allies)

BORNEAN STUBTAIL (Urosphena whiteheadi) [E]

Super views of one of these tiny endemics as it swiveled on its singing perch -- a vine at eye-level, just off the Kinabalu park road. Its very high-pitched song was above the hearing range of several!

YELLOW-BELLIED WARBLER (Abroscopus superciliaris)

After hearing one on Gunung Alab, we eventually laid eyes on a couple near the Rafflesia boardwalk trail at Poring Springs, shortly after we found the Great Argus. This widespread Asian species is a bamboo specialist.

MOUNTAIN TAILORBIRD (Phyllergates cucullatus)

It took some patience and persistence, but we eventually had nice looks at a trio along the Kinabalu park road, not far down the hill from the Timpohon Gate. Though it's called a tailorbird (and looks a lot like the real thing), this is not actually a tailorbird.

ABERRANT BUSH WARBLER (SUNDA) (Horornis flavolivaceus oreophilus)

Very common on the upper slopes of Gunung Alab and Mount Kinabalu. Our first, at arm's length along the roadside at Gunung Alab, was particularly confiding.

Zosteropidae (White-eyes, Yuhinas, and Allies)

CHESTNUT-CRESTED YUHINA (Staphida everetti) [E]

Daily in the highlands, typically in noisy, fast-moving groups. The birds outside our "breakfast deck" at the Liwagu Restaurant gave us some particularly nice looks, as did those swirling through the trees near the Timpohon gate.

BLACK-CAPPED WHITE-EYE (Zosterops atricapilla)

Also regular in the highlands, though in smaller groups than the previous species. Their black forehead and lores really sets off that bold white eye ring.

MOUNTAIN BLACK-EYE (Zosterops emiliae) [E]

Gratifyingly common this year, which isn't always the case. From Gunung Alab to Kinabalu, we saw them in numbers every day in the highlands, typically swarming over berrying trees. On Gunung Alab, some of them were nearly within touching distance. Despite its name, this too is a "white-eye", though without a white eye!

Timaliidae (Tree-Babblers, Scimitar-Babblers, and Allies)

BOLD-STRIPED TIT-BABBLER (Mixornis bornensis)

A small group twitching through the reeds along the Kinabatangan proved frustratingly difficult to actually see, but another group in trees along the Tenangang were more cooperative. The heavily streaked underparts and bright golden eyes of these small babblers are distinctive -- as was their song, which we heard daily at BRL.

FLUFFY-BACKED TIT-BABBLER (Macronus ptilosus)

A pair low in dense brush along the BRL entrance road spent a lot of their time hidden from view. But we persevered!

GRAY-HOODED BABBLER (Cyanoderma bicolor)

A pair flitted along the edge of one of the trails at the RDC, and others did the same along the Gomantong Caves road and the BRL entrance road. This common species used to be called Chestnut-winged Babbler.

BLACK-THROATED BABBLER (Stachyris nigricollis)

A vocal pair along the Gomantong Caves road on each of our morning visits proved difficult to see. We all got good looks of them flying back and forth across the road, but getting on them when they briefly popped out of the dense underbrush into the open was rather more challenging for many!

CHESTNUT-RUMPED BABBLER (Stachyris maculata)

A noisy pair showed nicely as they flicked through a tree above the boardwalk to the Gomantong Caves, not far from where we found our first Scarlet-rumped Trogon.

GRAY-THROATED BABBLER (Stachyris nigriceps)

Our first were a very cooperative pair rummaging through a small bush by the hut at the summit of Gunung Alab. They were regular on Mount Kinabalu, always in small groups, low on the hillsides along the park road.

GRAY-HEADED BABBLER (Stachyris poliocephala) [*]

We heard at least two singing in the dense brush along the start of the BRL entrance road on the day we drove to the far end of the reserve there.

Pellorneidae (Ground Babblers and Allies)

BLACK-THROATED WREN-BABBLER (Turdinus atrigularis) [E]

Arg! We chased after a calling bird for long minutes along the Segama trail with little success, other than fleeting glimpses for a few. Then Karen and the guides were the only ones to lay eyes on another bird that spent ages singing from various mostly hidden perches all around us on the Hornbill trail late one afternoon.

SOOTY-CAPPED BABBLER (Malacopteron affine)

Regular in the lowlands, with our best looks coming at an inquisitive bird along the Gomantong Caves road -- and of another along the BRL entrance road. The all-dark cap of this species helps to distinguish it from the next two.

SCALY-CROWNED BABBLER (Malacopteron cinereum)

Seen -- and heard -- well along the edge of the Gomantong Caves road on each of our morning visits.

RUFOUS-CROWNED BABBLER (Malacopteron magnum)

One in the same little group with the Ferruginous Babblers along BRL's Segama trail, just after we spotted the Great Argus on its display ground.

MOUSTACHED BABBLER (Malacopteron magnirostre)

Two near the new communication tower at BRL with another pair elsewhere on the entrance road there.

BORNEAN BLACK-CAPPED BABBLER (Pellorneum capistratoides)

Fine views of a pair striding along the edge Gomantong Cave road, with another pair on a small bank along the BRL entrance road. This species has recently been split from mainland forms to become one of Borneo's newest endemics.

WHITE-CHESTED BABBLER (Pellorneum rostratum)

Several pairs seen well as they flicked low along the edges of the Menanggul and Resang Rivers. Their loud "trick or treat" calls echoed regularly from the low forests there.

FERRUGINOUS BABBLER (Pellorneum bicolor)

One with a youngster in tow along the boardwalk out to the Gomantong Caves, another confiding pair along the BRL's Segama trail and another few along the BRL entrance road.

STRIPED WREN-BABBLER (Kenopia striata)

This is often the "easiest" wren-babbler -- but not this year! We heard several, but only Karen and the guides managed to get a look at one along the BRL's Hornbill trail, despite considerable effort!

Leiothrichidae (Laughingthrushes and Allies)

BROWN FULVETTA (Alcippe brunneicauda)

Common at BRL, with some nice looks at a busy little group from the canopy walkway and at others near the frog pond. This is certainly one of Borneo's more nondescript birds!

SUNDA LAUGHINGTHRUSH (Garrulax palliatus)

After hearing a noisy gang of them on our hike up Gunung Alab, we had many nice encounters with other groups at Kinabalu NP -- including a big group near the Kiau viewpoint one foggy morning. The subspecies schistochlamys is endemic to Borneo.

CHESTNUT-HOODED LAUGHINGTHRUSH (Pterorhinus treacheri treacheri) [E]

Very common in Kinabalu NP (and also seen on Gunung Alab), with particularly nice views of the confiding birds near Timpohon gate each morning. Previously lumped with the Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush, this is now one of Borneo's many endemics. The birds we saw belong to the subspecies treacheri -- one of four subspecies on the island.

Sittidae (Nuthatches)

VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH (Sitta frontalis)

A busy family group crawled up and down the trunks and branches of trackside trees near Mount Kinabalu's Timpohon gate, giving us some outstanding views. The subspecies corallipes is endemic to Borneo and nearby Maratua Island (which lies just off Borneo's southeastern coast).

Sturnidae (Starlings)

ASIAN GLOSSY STARLING (Aplonis panayensis)

Abundant in the lowlands, with dozens around Sepilok, tight flocks flying past as dusk approached along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries and other festooning trees and buildings in Kota Kinabalu. Many were streaky youngsters.

COMMON HILL MYNA (Gracula religiosa)

Small numbers along the Kinabatangan with a few others from the BRL canopy walkway. Unlike Borneo's other mynas, this one is never found on the ground.

JAVAN MYNA (Acridotheres javanicus) [I]

Our best views came when we stopped to check out the Little Grebe on a roadside pond in the vast palm grove. We found one singing from the top of a nearby palm tree, with its white vent clearly showing. We saw others on roadside wires on transfer days.

CRESTED MYNA (Acridotheres cristatellus)

Several perched on the roof of the new visitor's center at RDC and others trotted around the parking lot there, showing their dark vents well.

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)

EVERETT'S THRUSH (Zoothera everetti) [E]

The Mount Kinabalu park road proved to be a spectacularly good place to see these rare and enigmatic thrushes, with multiples seen bouncing across the pavement or foraging along its edges on our early morning outings there.

FRUIT-HUNTER (Chlamydochaera jefferyi) [E]

Our first was a flighty bird along the road up to the summit of Gunung Alab; unfortunately, it fled before everybody figured out which tree it was in. Luckily, a friendly Brazilian birder drew our attention to another, more cooperative bird in fruiting trees near the Timpohon gate, and some had brief views of another along the park road while we enjoyed "pre-breakfast snacks" early one morning.

ORANGE-HEADED THRUSH (ORANGE-HEADED) (Geokichla citrina aurata)

Two hunting on a steep corner of the park road got our first early morning on Mount Kinabalu off to a good start. They were a challenge to see initially, but as the light slowly grew, their striking colors came into focus. The subspecies aurata is endemic to Sabah.

Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)

WHITE-CROWNED SHAMA (Copsychus stricklandii stricklandii)

Very common in the lowlands, where we recorded them every day. Long considered a subspecies of the White-rumped Shama, this species has now been split and is one of Borneo's newer endemics. The subspecies stricklandii is found in northern and northeastern Borneo.

INDIGO FLYCATCHER (Eumyias indigo)

Great looks at the highland species around Kinabalu NP's Timpohon gate, with others near Hill Lodge and in various places along the park road. The subspecies cerviniventris is endemic to Borneo's montane forests.

VERDITER FLYCATCHER (Eumyias thalassinus)

A bit scarce this trip, with good views of two hunting along the BRL entrance road and another flycatching from a treetop near the Tambunan Rafflesia Centre's parking lot.

MALAYSIAN BLUE FLYCATCHER (Cyornis turcosus) [N]

Great studies of a pair -- both sporting big mouthfuls of prey items -- along the Menanggul River on our first morning there. We never spotted their nest, but they clearly had hungry mouths to fill somewhere!

BORNEAN BLUE FLYCATCHER (Cyornis superbus) [E]

We heard one singing along the Gomantong Caves road, but couldn't entice it into view. Fortunately, a male near the BRL frog pond proved more cooperative.

FULVOUS-CHESTED JUNGLE FLYCATCHER (Cyornis olivaceus)

A few at Poring Springs, including one missing most of its tail along the Rafflesia boardwalk trail. This is a locally uncommon species which is typically found in the lowlands, but ventures up to 900m in hill forest.

EYEBROWED JUNGLE FLYCATCHER (Vauriella gularis) [E]

Great looks -- once the light finally came up enough -- at one hunting along the same stretch of the Kinabalu park road as our Orange-headed Thrushes with another along the roadside near the Kiau viewpoint. This highland endemic is far harder to find once it moves off the road into the forest as the day progresses.

BORNEAN SHORTWING (Brachypteryx erythrogyna) [*]

Phooey. We heard this skulking endemic on several days in the highlands -- including one mere yards away along the edge of the track on Gunung Alab -- but couldn't spot any of them in the dense undergrowth they prefer.

BORNEAN WHISTLING-THRUSH (Myophonus borneensis) [E]

This bold species, on the other hand, performed admirably in Kinabalu park -- bouncing around on roadsides, gleaning moths off the porches of our cabins, and whistling from branches near Timpohon Gate.

WHITE-CROWNED FORKTAIL (MALAYSIAN) (Enicurus leschenaulti frontalis)

Several waggled their way back and forth across the BRL entrance road, occasionally flushing further away from our vehicles in a flurry of black and white.

SNOWY-BROWED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula hyperythra sumatrana)

One hunting in a bamboo stand near the summit of Gunung Alab was nicely visible as it moved from perch to perch. We had another pair foraging low along the edge of the Kinabalu park road, not far from the start of the Upper Silau-Silau trail.

LITTLE PIED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula westermanni)

Seen on most days in the highlands, with especially nice views of one hunting near the hut at the summit of Gunung Alab and another right beside one of the shelters at Kinabalu NP (thanks Dave!), where we were huddled out of a torrential downpour.

Dicaeidae (Flowerpeckers)

YELLOW-BREASTED FLOWERPECKER (Prionochilus maculatus)

After one along the BRL entrance road got away (when everybody got on the male Orange-bellied Flowerpecker instead), we finally caught up with this distinctive bird from the canopy walkway on our last morning at BRL. It fed for long minutes in a nearby mistletoe clump, giving us all the chance to ogle it in the scope.

YELLOW-RUMPED FLOWERPECKER (Prionochilus xanthopygius) [E]

Regular in Danum Valley, with particularly nice looks at a pair in flowering bushes near the BRL dining room. They kept us entertained on a soggy afternoon!

YELLOW-VENTED FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum chrysorrheum)

One overhead along the Sukau boardwalk, seen by those who'd stayed until the end of the ramble. It distracted us briefly from our search for the male Ruby-cheeked Sunbird.

ORANGE-BELLIED FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum trigonostigma)

The most common of the tour's flowerpeckers, seen well on numerous occasions -- particularly our first, on those popular berry spikes in our Sepilok hotel's parking lot.

BLACK-SIDED FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum monticolum) [E]

Surprisingly, we spotted them only on Gunung Alab this year (though we did hear them calling several times on Mount Kinabalu). A pair sat high in a tree near where the bus was parked, giving us the chance to check them out in the scope.

SCARLET-BACKED FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum cruentatum)

A snazzy male in a tree overhanging the Kinabatangan, seen as we made our way to the Menanggul River on our first morning's boat trip.

Nectariniidae (Sunbirds and Spiderhunters)

RUBY-CHEEKED SUNBIRD (Chalcoparia singalensis)

A female from the Sukau boardwalk on a late morning's walk there, and another female in a mistletoe clump visible from the BRL canopy walkway. The bright orange throat patch of the female helps to distinguish her from other female sunbirds.

PLAIN SUNBIRD (Anthreptes simplex)

All-too-brief views of this aptly-named species from the BRL canopy walkway. Unfortunately, it flushed almost as soon as we'd spotted it.

BROWN-THROATED SUNBIRD (Anthreptes malacensis)

Regular in more open areas throughout, with especially nice looks at a pair feeding on the berries of a fruiting tree in the parking lot at the Sepilok Nature Resort (ducking in when the spiderhunters were otherwise engaged). We had others from the Sukau boardwalk and the BRL dining deck, along the Tenangang River, around Poring Springs and in Prince Philip park in Kota Kinabalu.

VAN HASSELT'S SUNBIRD (Leptocoma brasiliana)

A male sang from treetops near the Bristlehead tower at RDC. He looked dark until he moved a certain way, then WOW, a pop of color! His small size and red (rather than navy) belly helps to distinguish him from the next species.

COPPER-THROATED SUNBIRD (Leptocoma calcostetha)

A pair in a bottlebrush tree right beside the parking lot at the Sepilok Nature Resort was astoundingly cooperative, sitting and preening for long minutes, with the male showing all his colors to perfection -- but only when he faced in certain directions.

ORNATE SUNBIRD (Cinnyris ornatus)

Surprisingly few this trip. Our best views came on Gunung Alab, where Ann spotted a handsome male near the summit. We saw a female at Poring Springs a few days later.

TEMMINCK'S SUNBIRD (Aethopyga temminckii)

Regular in the highlands, including fine looks at a close stunning male in a fruiting tree near Gunung Alab's summit. This species is one of many named for Coenraad Jacob Temminck, a Dutch zoologist and museum director.

CRIMSON SUNBIRD (Aethopyga siparaja)

A male foraged in a bottlebrush bush near the Sepilok Nature Resort -- great spotting, Ann! We found another near the RDC entrance the following morning.

PURPLE-NAPED SPIDERHUNTER (Kurochkinegramma hypogrammicum)

Surprisingly, we found only one this trip -- a single stripey bird along the Gomantong Caves road.

THICK-BILLED SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera crassirostris)

One of these uncommon residents foraged in the mid-canopy of a tree near the intersection of two trails at Poring Springs, near where we found the juvenile cuckoo with its foster parents.

LITTLE SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera longirostra)

A handful of close views in the lowlands, including one rummaging through a bush near the parking lot at the Sepilok Nature Resort our first afternoon. Its blackish-gray mustache stripe on an otherwise pale face is diagnostic.

WHITEHEAD'S SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera juliae) [E]

We heard the distinctive call of this highland endemic on most days in Kinabalu NP, but only Shafil and Karen were lucky enough to see one actually perched. The rest of us only saw one or more bound past in flight -- if we saw them at all!

YELLOW-EARED SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera chrysogenys)

Fine comparisons between this and the next species in the parking lot at the Sepilok Nature Resort, where a fruiting tree was attracting lots of attention. These were more common, with at least four swarming across the spikes of berries. Though the two species are similar, this one has a has a more noticeable spray of golden feathers on the side of its head and pale pink (rather than bright orange) legs and feet.

SPECTACLED SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera flavigaster)

One at a fruiting tree near the parking lot at our Sepilok hotel seemed to take a particular dislike to Asian Glossy Starlings, chasing any and all of them out of "its" tree when they tried to muscle in. That gave us a good indication of its size; it was nearly as big as the starlings! We saw another from the canopy walkway at RDC.

Irenidae (Fairy-bluebirds)

ASIAN FAIRY-BLUEBIRD (Irena puella)

A few along the BRL entrance road and a quartet of soggy but still stunning males in a treetop visible from the BRL dining room during our rainy afternoon's watch. Some of the group saw a couple of others near our begging Indian Cuckoo at Poring Springs.

Chloropseidae (Leafbirds)

GREATER GREEN LEAFBIRD (Chloropsis sonnerati)

A few along the BRL entrance road (seen on the morning we caught a ride to the property edge) with others from the canopy walkway. The females are easier to distinguish from the next species than the males are; these have a yellow throat and big yellow eye ring.

LESSER GREEN LEAFBIRD (Chloropsis cyanopogon)

Jonathon and Bruce spotted one from the RDC canopy walkway, but the rest of the group had to wait until we got to the Danum Valley to catch up. We saw a female well on our rainy afternoon on the BRL dining room deck (she was foraging in a nearby tree) and others from the BRL canopy walkway. Females of this species show only a narrow blue mustache.

BORNEAN LEAFBIRD (Chloropsis kinabaluensis) [E]

A small group of four or five swarmed through trees along the Silau-Silau trail -- great spotting, Karen! Both males and females have black masks, but males show more yellow around the borders.

Ploceidae (Weavers and Allies)

BAYA WEAVER (Ploceus philippinus) [IN]

Birds in a little colony just down the road for our Sepilok hotel worked on their nests as we watched from the bus. Males do all of the nest-building (with youngsters building "practice" nests) and then attract passing females with much calling and flapping of wings while clinging to the outside of the nest.

Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies)

JAVA SPARROW (Padda oryzivora)

A little gang of 25 or so flew in and landed right beside the bus while we waited at a red light in Kota Kinabalu, on our way from the airport to our hotel. This is the first time (since at least 2013, when our triplists went online) that this species has been recorded on a Borneo tour!

DUSKY MUNIA (Lonchura fuscans) [EN]

Common in the lowlands and foothills, with dozens flying off the road as we hurtled along on our way to Danum Valley and a pair building a nest in a tree at the entrance to the Tambunan Rafflesia Centre. This is the only Bornean endemic which isn't dependent on good forest for its survival.

CHESTNUT MUNIA (Lonchura atricapilla)

Small groups in scattered locations in the lowlands, including a few flitting through tall weeds beyond the Baya Weaver colony near Sepilok and a busy gang bouncing around the parking lot at Prince Philip park in Kota Kinabalu our last afternoon.

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus) [I]

Regular throughout, including dozens around our Sepilok hotel and the nearby Rainforest Discovery Centre, and others around the Sukau boat dock and at the lunch restaurant where we searched for Whitehead's Spiderhunter.


MAMMALS

COLUGO (Galeopterus variegatus)

A grayish mama and her half-grown youngster rested on a tree trunk between our rooms and the dining room at the Sukau Rainforest Lodge and a big orange individual clung to a trunk along the Kinabatangan River. The subspecies found on the island -- borneanus -- is sometimes considered to be a distinct species.

LARGE FLYING FOX (Pteropus vampyrus)

Dozens flapped over the river or hung in fruiting trees along the banks on our first night float along the Kinabatangan, and some of the group saw others at the start of our night walk along the Sukau boardwalk trail. These huge bats have a wingspan only slightly smaller than that of the Black-crowned Night Heron!

WHISKERED MYOTIS (Myotis muricola)

The little bat we found in the rolled-up Heliconia leaf along the BRL entrance road belonged to this species. However, recent DNA research suggests that this "species" is actually a COMPLEX of species, and I'm not sure which one this bat will eventually turn out to belong to.

WRINKLE-LIPPED FREE-TAILED BAT (Chaerephon plicatus)

Thousands clung, chittering, to the walls and ceiling of the Gomantong Caves, shifting nervously in the beams of our flashlights. Later, we watched small clouds of them swirl up out of the caves, to run the gauntlet of the hunting Bat Hawks.

COMMON TREESHREW (Tupaia glis)

One along a trail at RDC for many, but our best views came on the Gomantong Caves road, when one oblivious individual scampered along the roadside right towards us. Their long pointed noses separate the treeshrews from squirrels.

LESSER TREESHREW (Tupaia minor)

One near the start of the hill on the waterfall trail at Poring Springs.

CRAB-EATING MACAQUE (Macaca fascigularis)

Hundreds -- of every conceivable age and size -- seen well along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries. The short-tailed one sprawled atop one of the monkey bridges over the Resang River was particularly entertaining -- as was the tiny youngster that attempted a boarding along the Tenangang. This one is also known as Long-tailed Macaque.

PIGTAIL MACAQUE (Macaca nemestrina)

Another regular species along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries, though far less common that the previous species. As its name suggests, this macaque lacks the long tail of its smaller cousin.

SILVERED LEAF MONKEY (Presbytis cristata)

A few along the Kinabatangan, typically perched high up in the canopy of some of the biggest trees. Unlike the very social macaques, these are typically solitary or only in small groups.

RED LEAF MONKEY (Presbytis rubicunda) [E]

Most common in the Danum Valley, with close looks at several small groups along the entrance road. Keith and I spotted others near the start of the boardwalk out to the caves at Gomantong, and the whole gang spied a single distant animal high in tree on the forested slopes of Mount Kinabalu. This is the most widespread of Borneo's leaf monkeys.

PROBOSCIS MONKEY (Nasalis larvatus) [E]

Common along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries, where we saw a number of big-nosed males sprinkled among the far more common snub-nosed females and youngsters. This endemic species is endangered, primarily due to habitat loss (those ever-expanding oil palm groves) and hunting pressures. The Kinabatangan river area remains its stronghold.

GRAY GIBBON (Hylobates muelleri) [E]

Fabulous views of a family group feasting on the fruits of a fig tree over the entrance road at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, with others regularly heard throughout the lowlands. Normally, we're lucky to catch even the barest glimpse of these long-limbed monkeys as they swing through the canopy!

ORANGUTAN (Pongo pygmaeus) [E]

A scattering in the lowlands: one climbing over the roof of the workers' building at Gomantong Caves, one munching fruit in a tree along the Kinabatangan and a couple of young females near the Borneo Rainforest Lodge. This is the world's largest arboreal mammal.

PREVOST'S SQUIRREL (Callosciurus prevostii)

These red-bellied black squirrels were very common and widespread in the lowlands, seen in good numbers daily there. We missed them only on our days on Mount Kinabalu.

KINABALU SQUIRREL (Callosciurus baluensis) [E]

The highland replacement of the previous species, seen nicely along the Silau-Silau trail, thanks to some great spotting by Dave. We had another along the park road a couple of days later. This one has a grizzled gray (rather than black) back, with bold black and white stripes along its sides and a red belly.

PLANTAIN SQUIRREL (Callosciurus notatus)

Seen scurrying up trunks and along branches on a few scattered days in the lowlands: at Gomantong Caves, along the Borneo Rainforest Lodge's entrance road and at Prince Philip Park in Kota Kinabalu.

EAR-SPOT SQUIRREL (Callosciurus adamsi) [E]

One along the Gomantong Caves road showed the distinctive pale behind-the-ear spots of this endemic species.

BORNEAN BLACK-BANDED SQUIRREL (Callosciurus orestes) [E]

Some fabulously close views of a very hopeful one on the railings at the Timpohon Gate; it was most disappointed that there wasn't a single peanut in view.

JENTINK'S SQUIRREL (Sundasciurus jentincki) [E]

Daily in the highlands. The incredible speed with which these tiny squirrels rocketed through the trees had us dubbing them "jetpack squirrels".

BORNEAN MOUNTAIN GROUND-SQUIRREL (Dremomys everetti) [E]

Fabulous looks at one of these dark squirrels rummaging on the roadside as we descended Gunung Alab. With its pointy nose, this one looks a bit like a treeshrew.

PLAIN PYGMY SQUIRREL (Exilisciurus exilis) [E]

One of these tiny squirrels scuttled up a trunk along the Gomantong Caves road, another leapt from branch to branch along the BRL entrance road and we spotted a final one at Poring Springs. These tiny squirrels are well named; they're barely longer than a thumb!

WHITEHEAD'S PYGMY SQUIRREL (Exilisciurus whiteheadi) [E]

The slightly larger highland replacement for the previous species, seen on most days in Kinabalu NP. Those white-tasseled ears were particularly adorable!

RED GIANT FLYING SQUIRREL (Petaurista petaurista)

After striking out completely on our first night drive at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, we saw a number well on our second, including one that leapt from one huge emergent tree and glided across a wide clearing to the trunk of another. Yahoo!

THOMAS'S FLYING SQUIRREL (Aeromys thomasi) [E]

We found a few of these on our second night drive. They're slightly smaller than the previous species, with an all red (rather than black-tipped) tail.

NORWAY (BROWN) RAT (Rattus norvegicus) [I]

One scuttled along near the main building at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge -- doubtless why there were so many "clean kill" enclosed rat traps around the lodge this year!

YELLOW-THROATED MARTEN (Martes flavigula)

One flashed across the BRL entrance road, seen only by the lucky few who happened to be looking in the right direction when it did so.

MALAY CIVET (Viverra tangalunga)

Individuals seen on each of our BRL night drives. A couple of these handsome spotty mustelids proved surprisingly confiding, continuing to prowl along the roadside even as our vehicle slowly approached.

COMMON PALM CIVET (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus)

Especially nice views of the one tightroping its way along the rafters of the dining room at the Sukau Rainforest Lodge. It eventually made its way to the bar -- to the great consternation of the young woman working there! We saw others on each of our night floats along the Kinabatangan.

MASKED PALM CIVET (Paguma larvata)

Another species seen on each of our night floats along the Kinabatangan. This one is plainer overall than the previous species; it lacks the back stripes of the Common Palm Civet, but has a more patterned face.

MARBLED CAT (Felis marmorata)

Wow, wow, wow! Fabulous views of a kitten peering down from a tree along the BRL entrance road during one night drive. This arboreal cat is seldom seen; it hunts primarily at dawn and dusk, typically in the forest canopy and it's "near threatened", primarily due to habitat destruction.

LEOPARD CAT (Felis bengalensis)

Seen on one of our Sukau night floats and both of our BRL night drives -- including one cat that strolled along right beside our vehicle for a surprising few moments. Many taxonomists recognize the animals on Borneo (and other Sundaland islands) as being a separate species: the Sunda Leopard Cat (Prionailurus javanensis).

BORNEAN PYGMY ELEPHANT (Elephas maximus borneensis)

Unfortunately, the big herd of elephants had moved far downriver before our arrival at the Sukau Rainforest Lodge. Fortunately, we got word of a small group that had lingered along the Tenangang, and we were able to find them -- and see a few moving backs and a grasping trunk or two -- just before dusk one evening. It wasn't much, but it was something!

GREATER MOUSE DEER (Tragulus napu)

One moved through the underbrush near BRL's main building, seen as we returned from our first night drive there.

SAMBAR (Cervus unicolor)

A couple rested under the trees off the nature boardwalk at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, seen during our night walk there -- though as little more than dark shapes and glowing eyeballs! We had better views of the captive herd at Poring Springs.


HERPS

COMMON HOUSE GECKO (Hemidactylus frenatus)

Abundant in the lowlands, with nearly two dozen patrolling the "shoe porch" at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge on several evenings.

PAINTED BRONZEBACK (Dendrelaphis pictus)

Several rested, kinked and watchful, on reeds along the edge of the Kinabatangan, seen as we drifted past on our night floats.

MANGROVE CAT SNAKE (Boiga dendrophila)

The huge black snake that crossed the BRL entrance road one morning appeared to be this species. It was so long, it stretched nearly across the whole road!

HARLEQUIN FLYING TREEFROG (Rhacophorus pardalis (Rhacophoridae))

One of the smaller frogs we saw at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge's frog pond on our night walk there. This one had speckly sides and strongly webbed toes.

FILE-EARED TREEFROG (Polypedates otilophus (Rhacophoridae))

At least one of these big treefrogs at the BRL frog pond, where it dwarfed the other nearby frogs. The black and white stripes on their legs are among their most distinctive field marks.

BLACK-EARED TREEFROG (Polypedates macrotis (Rhacophoridae))

A small one rested on the railing around the BRL frog pond, showing nicely the dark stripe that covers its tympanum and gives it its common name.

ROUGH-SIDED FROG (Hylarana glandulosa (Ranidae))

"What? WHAT? WHAT?!" The constant loud calls of this frog echoed around the Sepilok Nature Resort's pond and had us giggling while we waited for the Brown Boobook to make an appearance. We spotted one sitting along the edge of the water near the bridge.

GREEN PADDY FROG (Hylarana erythraea (Ranidae))

One along the Kinabatangan River, seen on one of our night floats. The bright white underparts of this lime green frog made it easy to pick out in the spotlights.

SALTWATER CROCODILE (Crocodylus porosus)

Daily along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries, including a few very small ones floating in the shallows along the edges of the smaller rivers, and an absolutely monstrous one lurking near the entrance of the Menanggul.

HORNED FLYING LIZARD (Draco cornutus)

Singles seen on a couple of days near the start of the Upper Silau-Silau trail, including one flicking out its little yellow dewlap.

FORMOSA GLIDING LIZARD (Draco formosus)

This was the gorgeous red-frilled flying lizard that we found on a tree trunk at Poring Springs.

BORNEO ANGLE-HEADED LIZARD (Gonocephalus borneensis) [E]

One on our night walk around the BRL boardwalk nature trail, with another along the Segama trail there. The funny angular head shape of this species helps to identify it.

SMITH'S GIANT GECKO (Gekko smithii )

One seen by some of us on the outer wall of one of the cabins at BRL -- and we certainly all heard the distinctive call of this species, which is also known as the "Barking Gecko".

STRIPED TREE SKINK (Dasia vittata)

These endemic lizards were particularly common around our Sepilok hotel, where they scurried up tree trunks after insects. The combination of a black and yellow striped head and a speckled brown body is diagnostic.

WATER MONITOR (Varanus salvator)

A few in and around lowland waters, including one swimming across the pond at our Sepilok resort, another along the edge of the Menanggul and a final one in Prince Philip Park in KK.


Other Creatures of Interest

RAFFLESIA (PORING) (Rafflesia keithii) [E]

A somewhat tired-looking third day flower stretched its petals across a leafy hillside in Poring Springs, still attracting some bewildered flies to its smelly interior. Dozens more buds, some already bigger than hands with fingers spread wide, dotted the slope around it.

PITCHER PLANT SP. (Nepenthes stenophylla) [E]

This was the plant with the larger, mostly green pitchers that we found by the park sign on Gunung Alab. It's endemic to the island.

PITCHER PLANT SP. (Nepenthes tentaculata)

And this was the one with the small red pitchers that we found very close to the previous species. The "tentaculata" of its scientific name refers to the fine filaments that protrude from the upper surface of the lid.

BROWN LEECH (Haemadipsa zyelanica)

Unfortunately, I think we all made the close acquaintance of this one.

TIGER LEECH (Haemadipsa picta)

And a few of these as well. In fact, I think we all have "blood donor" certificates to prove it!


LEPIDOPTERA

BORNEAN PILL MILLIPEDE (Glomeris connexa)

Regular in the forests around BRL, sometimes in little groups of two or three. And of course, we had to prod one to induce it to curl up into its round marble shape -- nearly 1-1/2 inches in diameter!

LONG-LEGGED CENTIPEDES (Scutigera spp.)

Hundreds of these huge, nightmare-inducing cave dwellers clung to the walls of Gomantong Caves.

TRACTOR MILLIPEDES (Barydesmus sp.)

We saw these in a number of places throughout the tour, with several species undoubtedly involved. These are reportedly notoriously difficult to identify to species.

GIANT FOREST ANT (Dinomyrmex gigas)

Regular in lowland forests, typically seen trundling across roads or down paths. This huge species, one of the world's largest ants, feeds primarily on honeydew, though it also takes insects and sometimes nibbles on bird droppings.

CHAN'S MEGASTICK (Phobaeticus chani)

We spotted one of these huge walking sticks, still wriggling, in the mouth of a Helmeted Hornbill along the BRL entrance road.

TRILOBITE BEETLE (Platerodrilus cf. paradoxus (Lycidae) )

We found a couple of females (or youngsters) huddled together on a trunk near the start of the Mempening trail. While adult males look like typical beetles, the much larger females never lose their larval form.

COMMON BIRDWING (Troides helena)

Seen along the BRL entrance road, at various places in Kinabalu NP and at our lunch spot on our final afternoon, while we waited in vain for the Whitehead's Spiderhunter to make an appearance. It's quite difficult to distinguish this species from the Malay Birdwing (P. amphrysus) and the Borneo Birdwing (P. andromache), but we saw one or more of the three!

RAJAH BROOKE'S BIRDWING (Trogonoptera brookiana)

Some superb views of this spectacular butterfly along the BRL entrance road and in Kinabalu NP, including the one that kept fluttering closer and closer along the park road one afternoon.

COMMON TREE NYMPH (WOOD NYMPH) (Idea stolli)

Abundant throughout, drifting like wisps of tissue paper through the forest canopy. Their aposematic black-and-white coloring indicates that they're toxic.

CLIPPER BUTTERFLY (Parthenos sylvia)

Reasonably common in the lowlands, particularly along the BRL entrance road. This widespread species ranges across much of southeastern Asia, with a huge number of subspecies. The one in Borneo is, appropriately, borneensis.

LYSSA MOTH (Lyssa zampa)

These huge brown moths were regular through, including one that didn't want to leave my side on Gunung Alab and one clinging to a trunk along RDC's Pitta trail.


Totals for the tour: 248 bird taxa and 34 mammal taxa