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Field Guides Tour Report
Cambodia: Angkor Temples & Vanishing Birds 2018
Feb 10, 2018 to Feb 24, 2018
Phil Gregory & Doug Gochfeld

Here the group birds the unique habitat on sandbar islands in the middle of the mighty Mekong River, which we accessed by boat, and where we found specialists like Mekong Wagtail, Small Pratincole, and Brown-throated Martin. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

This year’s Field Guides tour to Cambodia was yet another dandy. The birds were great, the locals warm and welcoming, and the weather cooperative (the tradeoff of heat for dryness is one we’ll take!).

We started off in Siem Reap, the third largest city in Cambodia, where the Sonalong was once again our wonderful base of operations for the first four birding days of the tour.

The first morning of the tour saw us getting right into a dizzying array of birds at the Phnom Krom rice paddies to the south of town. Not only were some more birds with a strong southeast Asian flavor, such as Chestnut-capped Babbler, Oriental Darter, and Pheasant-tailed Jacana, but we also had a great showing of migrant shorebirds which were wintering in the area, including such locally scarce birds as Temminck’s and Long-toed Stints. We also had a surprise “Chinese” White Wagtail. The afternoon brought us to the high quality locally made crafts at Artisans Angkor, and then onto the Royal Gardens park where we got to observe the large daytime roost of several hundred Lyle’s Flying-Foxes. We were also treated to a great comparison of Asian Brown and Taiga flycatchers interacting with each other.

Day two was devoted to the truly incredible ruins of the Angkor complex, though that didn’t mean a lack of birds! Highlights at Angkor Wat were the often elusive White-throated Rock-thrush, a cacophony of Asian Barred Owlets (and eventually some nice views to boot!), Black-naped Monarch, Blue Rock-thrush, a Black-capped Kingfisher with breakfast, and of course our fantastic views of the Brown Boobook which Chea magically found. The tree temple at Ta Prohm is always one of the favorites, and in addition to the sea of Chinese New Year tourists at this unique temple that has been incorporated into the forest because of several centuries of human neglect, we also saw Alexandrine Parakeets investigating a nest cavity. Bayon temple with its gazillion faces and intricate carvings where identifiable birds figure prominently drew its share of oohs and ahs, and the bridge at the south entrance to Angkor Thom was diverting as well.

Our third day brought us all the way to the northwest of Siem Reap, to the Arg Trapeang Thmor reservoir, which was a Khmer Rouge era irrigation project that was a fatal hardship for many who contributed to its construction. Nowadays, the reservoir functions to allow the land around to have two rice crops per year, and it also provides a large swathe of concentrated wetland habitat, which was one of our main targets here. First, though, we stopped at some flooded fields en route to find Sarus Cranes, which we did, though they were quite distant. Other birds at this site included both Pied and Eastern Marsh harriers, a flock of Comb Ducks, and hundreds of egrets. Then we headed to the north side of the reservoir, where Spotted Wood Owl was the main quarry, though we also managed to net a bonus Greater Spotted Eagle as well. Home-cooked lunch at a small village run “restaurant” was fantastic, and fueled us up for birding the wetlands, which produced a litany of fun birds including close Yellow Bitterns and a flock of our only wild Baya Weavers of the trip.

Our final full day based out of Siem Reap featured one of the annual highlights of this tour: the boat ride onto Tonlé Sap Lake and into Prek Toal Biosphere Reserve, with its innumerable waterbirds. The biomass we get to experience on this day is truly mindboggling, and we got all of our main targets, including Greater Adjutant, Lesser Adjutant, Milky Stork, all three species of bitterns, and a true waterbird spectacle, from great concentrations of Spot-billed Pelicans and Oriental Darters to gigantic flocks of Asian Openbills. It was a truly incredible voyage.

After our final night in Siem Reap, we shot east, heading to the Prolay Grasslands, which is managed for the Critically Endangered Bengal Florican. We did indeed connect with this primary target, but we also saw many other great things here, including Manchurian Reed-Warbler, Indochinese Sand Snake, and Chestnut Munia. After departing Prolay, we headed towards Tmatboey, with a great stop on the way, where we picked up White-rumped Falcon, Collared Falconet, and Rufous Treepie, all despite it being the heat of the day (which is pretty dang hot in Cambodia!). We ended the day with a magical experience in Tmatboey at the nest of a Giant Ibis (the second rarest ibis species in the world, and the national bird of Cambodia), with Black-headed Woodpeckers chattering all around the blind as well. Yet another tremendous day.

The next three days were spent birding all around the dry dipterocarp forests of Tmatboey, where highlights included White-shouldered Ibis, Burmese Nuthatch, a litany of woodpeckers, several species of owls, and a nice evening with Savanna Nightjars among many others. The morning at the Stoeng Chuuk River was our first taste of the primary forests that we would end the tour with, and gave us another cross section of great species which included Black-and-buff Woodpecker, Van Hasselt's Sunbird, and Gray-rumped Minivet.

Then we went a couple of hours to the east, and ended our day at the Baeng Toal Vulture Restaurant, where a fresh cow had recently been deposited for the benefit of the regions' three species of critically endangered vultures. We had two species that evening, but sadly the numbers were low because a bunch of vultures had apparently been flushed by someone on a motorbike earlier in the day. We did get Indian Spotted Eagle soaring overhead as a nice bonus though! The next morning again saw a shortage of vultures (though the views of Red-headed were fantastic!), but we made up for it with a lot of other really great birding, including a flyby pair of bugling Giant Ibis, Crested Treeswifts galore, Lesser Adjutants, Giant Hawk-Cuckoo, Vernal Hanging-Parrots, and many more. Then it was off to Kratie along the Mekong River, where we would spend the night.

While we do do some other birding around the Mekong (read: Asian Golden Weaver!), our primary purpose here is the boat trip out onto the river, where main targets are Mekong Wagtail, Small Pratincole, Brown-throated Martin, and the very rare and declining Irrawaddy Dolphin. This year was a good year on all fronts, as we had good encounters with all of the above, before heading east towards the Vietnam border for the final phase of the tour.

Seima Forest is an incredibly biodiverse area of Cambodia, and while protected, it is also under the constant dark cloud of widespread illegal logging. In addition to birding some of the primary forest itself, we also birded a few of the remnant forest patches, mostly in riverine valleys, outside the protected core of the forest. It was a really great birding experience, adding a new dense forest flavor to a trip that had mostly explored more open habitats until now. Despite it being the dry season, the rainforest vibe was easily felt in quite a few of the forest patches we visited. Oriental Pied-Hornbills were the norm, our barbet and bulbul diversity skyrocketed, we got several new swifts (including Silver-backed Needletail), two species of trogons, and even connected on a couple of very rare primates: Black-shanked Douc Langur, and Yellow-cheeked Gibbon. We spent three nights in the area, and on our final birding evening we found what appears to be perhaps only the third Cambodian record of Clicking Shrike-babbler (though it's hard to track down all records in this part of the world).

Our final day saw us departing from Seima early, with just a brief bit of local birding (including the aforementioned Yellow-cheeked Gibbon) before blasting back to Phnom Penh via a great lunch at Smile Restaurant in Krong Kampong and a visit to a site in the Four Arms Plain where we saw one of the two Cambodian endemic birds: the recently described to science Cambodian Tailorbird.

This was truly a fun-filled, eye-opening, and educational journey through a very interesting land. From the delightful locals, to the boat trips teeming with biomass, to the rarity of much of the wildlife we experienced, this was a one-of-a-kind trip. I would be remiss not to mention what a fantastic group of travelers we got to take along. Phil and I were truly delighted to be able to explore Cambodia with such a great group of folks. Until we next meet somewhere in this vast and wonderful world of birds!


One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

Painted Storks were a common sight throughout our tour, and if you're gonna be repeatedly seeing a bird it might as well be a stunner like these guys! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
LESSER WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna javanica) – Plenty of these were around the lake at ATT, including a raft of several hundred close to the road!
COMB DUCK (OLD WORLD) (Sarkidiornis melanotos melanotos) – Mostly distant views this year, at the flooded fields where the cranes were, at ATT, and then again at the stork colony at Prek Toal.
COTTON PYGMY-GOOSE (Nettapus coromandelianus) – Excellent views of these adorable ducks at ATT.
GARGANEY (Spatula querquedula) – Brief views at ATT and then on the lake near Prek Toal.
INDIAN SPOT-BILLED DUCK (Anas poecilorhyncha haringtoni) – Scattered around wetland areas throughout the tour, including on the Mekong River. This subspecies doesn't have the bright red tip of the bill that the other taxon of this species sports.
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
SCALY-BREASTED PARTRIDGE (Arborophila chloropus) – Heard only at a couple of locations around Seima. Always distant, never cooperative.
GREEN PEAFOWL (Pavo muticus) – A fantastic experience with this at Seima, as it was next to the road when we went to look for it, and we got to see this massive bird somehow staying airborne as it flew to the treeline, where it posed at length while calling for us. This was Claudi's 5000th bird species seen!
CHINESE FRANCOLIN (Francolinus pintadeanus) – One of the most iconic calls of the dry forests of this part of the world. It is truly a ridiculous vocalization, and we actually even got to see the species a couple of times, which isn't always a guarantee.
RED JUNGLEFOWL (Gallus gallus gallus) – Got some of these nice white-rumped, wild, junglechickens at Tmatboey.

Angkor Wat is truly one of the most mindboggling man-made structures in human history. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (LITTLE) (Tachybaptus ruficollis poggei) – ATT and Prek Toal.
Ciconiidae (Storks)
ASIAN OPENBILL (Anastomus oscitans) – A mindboggling stream of a couple of thousand over Prek Toal.
WOOLLY-NECKED STORK (ASIAN) (Ciconia episcopus episcopus) – On three days in the Tmatboey area, including finally getting some perched.
LESSER ADJUTANT (Leptoptilos javanicus) – Prek Toal and Tmatboey initially, and then a nice wrap up with 2-4 individuals at close range at the Vulture Restaurant.
GREATER ADJUTANT (Leptoptilos dubius) – We saw a few of these larger, much more endangered, cousins of the prior species on the boat ride at Prek Toal. We got to see these hulking beasts circling out in the distance in direct comparison with Lesser Adjutants, and other smaller storks, all of which they dwarfed. The glowing silvery secondaries were especially prominent in these views as well. One also flew right over our boats as we got back towards the mouth of the channel at the lake itself. There are estimated to be 150-200 individuals left in Cambodia, out of a world population of 1,200 or so.
MILKY STORK (Mycteria cinerea) – Another endangered waterbird, there are fewer than 100 left on mainland Southeast Asia, and the core of its population in Sumatra is rapidly and alarmingly declining (there are around 2,000 left in the wild in total). We got views of at least one bird roosting in a tree with Painted Storks, and then got to see three in flight with Painted Storks, allowing us a very instructive identification opportunity.
PAINTED STORK (Mycteria leucocephala) – A fairly common one in our travels during the first half of the tour. It's a gorgeous animal.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
LITTLE CORMORANT (Microcarbo niger) – Especially prevalent in the first few days and then around the Mekong.
GREAT CORMORANT (EURASIAN) (Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis) – Some reasonable numbers during our Tonlé Sap and Prek Toal boat ride.
INDIAN CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax fuscicollis) – Truly abundant around the Mekong.

Spot-billed Pelicans are impressive beasts, and here you can even see the spots on the upper mandible that give the species its name! Photo by participant Linda Rudolph.

Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ORIENTAL DARTER (Anhinga melanogaster) – Excellent views during our Prek Toal boat ride of good numbers of this near threatened cousin of our Anhinga.
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
SPOT-BILLED PELICAN (Pelecanus philippensis) – A roost of about thirty birds in a palm tree on the way back from ATT, and then quite a few on the boat trip the next day.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
YELLOW BITTERN (Ixobrychus sinensis) – Brief looks at Phnom Krom, good looks at ATT, and then about ten individuals (!!!) along the canal at Prek Toal.
CINNAMON BITTERN (Ixobrychus cinnamomeus) – Seen on a couple of days on the way back from ATT and then on the boat ride.
BLACK BITTERN (Ixobrychus flavicollis) – Seen by a few as it flushed out of the canal on the boat ride.
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea) – Common in appropriate habitat.
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea) – ATT and then fantastic views at Prek Toal.
GREAT EGRET (EURASIAN) (Ardea alba alba) – Common in appropriate habitat.
INTERMEDIATE EGRET (INTERMEDIATE) (Ardea intermedia intermedia) – Good comparison views of this well-named egret with its similar-looking Great Egret cousins.
LITTLE EGRET (WESTERN) (Egretta garzetta garzetta) – Abundant in appropriate habitat.
CATTLE EGRET (EASTERN) (Bubulcus ibis coromandus) – Common in appropriate habitat.

This Great Egret practiced some gymnastics which none of us had ever seen from an egret before. It channeled its inner tern, swooping down from the air and catching this fish while remaining on the wing. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

CHINESE POND-HERON (Ardeola bacchus) – Abundant in appropriate habitat, and seen on each of the first eleven days.
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata) – ATT and Prek Toal.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (EURASIAN) (Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax) – Hundreds at Prek Toal. Truly impressive.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus) – 25+ at the stork colony at Prek Toal.
BLACK-HEADED IBIS (Threskiornis melanocephalus) – A couple of folks saw one flying by on the way back from ATT, and then everyone caught up with this species at the stork colony at Prek Toal.
WHITE-SHOULDERED IBIS (Pseudibis davisoni) – Two days in a row at Tmatboey provided us with fantastic views of this critically endangered ibis in several contexts: adults flying, fledged juveniles in a tree near a nest, and feeding in the seasonally wet Trapeangs in the forest.
GIANT IBIS (Pseudibis gigantea) – A great experience with a young bird in a nest on our first evening at Tmatboey, which got even better when an adult arrived as it got dark. We then had a pair fly by loudly bugling (very reminiscent of a crane, in fact) at the hide at the Vulture Restaurant. The global population is estimated to be 290 individuals.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – On the final day on the way back to Phnom Penh.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE (Elanus caeruleus) – Seen in several grasslands.
ORIENTAL HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis ptilorhynchus) – Nice views of these beasts at Seima.
BLACK BAZA (Aviceda leuphotes) – Fleeting glimpses at Angkor Wat, but then excellent flight views of a couple of birds circling low at Seima.
RED-HEADED VULTURE (Sarcogyps calvus) – Good views of this monster critically endangered vulture on both of our visits to the Vulture Restaurant hide, with a spectacular view late on the second morning.
WHITE-RUMPED VULTURE (Gyps bengalensis) – Fewer than normal of this critically endangered vulture, which hopefully isn't an indication of a trend (there had been more recently, so hopefully this was just a very atypical luck of the draw).

Red-headed Vultures are impressive beasts (with unimpugnable fashion senses- just look at those tights!), but their worldwide population has plummeted by over 95% in the last two decades, and Cambodia is one of the last places to see them. They are often the first vultures to a carcass, using their very strong bills to make the initial cuts before other smaller-billed vultures descend to take advantage of its work. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

CRESTED SERPENT-EAGLE (Spilornis cheela) – Seen several times on the second half of the tour.
CHANGEABLE HAWK-EAGLE (Nisaetus limnaeetus) – Nice views at Tmatboey and at Baeng Toal.
RUFOUS-BELLIED EAGLE (Lophotriorchis kienerii) – An unexpected pale youngster at Seima, for the second year in a row.
BLACK EAGLE (Ictinaetus malaiensis) – Good views on one of our mornings at Seima.
INDIAN SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga hastata) – This was the clanga eagle that we encountered on both days at Baeng Toal.
GREATER SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga clanga) – One of these was circling over the savanna northeast of ATT.
RUFOUS-WINGED BUZZARD (Butastur liventer) – The common small buzzard in the dry dipterocarp forest.
GRAY-FACED BUZZARD (Butastur indicus) – An immature on our first evening at Dak Dam.
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus) – A nice rarity over the lake at ATT! This is a very uncommon bird in this part of the world, though there is some precedent at this site. We secured photos and some video to document this occurrence!
EASTERN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus spilonotus) – Seen on a couple of different days, with very nice numbers on our ATT day.
PIED HARRIER (Circus melanoleucos) – Seen sporadically on days 3-5.
CRESTED GOSHAWK (Accipiter trivirgatus) – A brief view of a youngster flying over at Seima.
SHIKRA (Accipiter badius) – Very active around the Royal Gardens in Siem Reap and at Angkor Wat, but also seen on most days.
BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans) – Prolay Grasslands.
GRAY-HEADED FISH-EAGLE (Haliaeetus ichthyaetus) – Excellent views, including one vocalizing while in flight and being mobbed by a Jungle Crow.
Otididae (Bustards)
BENGAL FLORICAN (Houbaropsis bengalensis) – We got this critically endangered species almost immediately upon our arrival at the grasslands at Prolay. Worldwide population estimates for this species hover around 600 individuals.

Here the group scans for Bengal Florican at the Prolay Grasslands east of Siem Reap. Our vigilance paid off, as we saw at least three individuals, including one male that flushed from right next to the track and gave us a fantastic slow flyby view! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
WHITE-BREASTED WATERHEN (Amaurornis phoenicurus) – In the distance around the small pond below the overlook at Dak Dam.
WATERCOCK (Gallicrex cinerea) – One flushed in front of the boats along the canal at Prek Toal.
BLACK-BACKED SWAMPHEN (Porphyrio indicus indicus) – Many at ATT, and some at Phnom Krom as well.
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra) – ATT.
Gruidae (Cranes)
SARUS CRANE (Antigone antigone sharpii) – Four individuals near ATT. They've apparently been especially difficult this year.
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus) – Day one and day four.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
RED-WATTLED LAPWING (Vanellus indicus atronuchalis) – Three separate days, with some very good views at the Vulture Restaurant.
KENTISH PLOVER (Charadrius alexandrinus) – Our very first morning at Phnom Krom produced this species which is irregularly seen on the tour, thanks to the excellent shorebird habitat in a couple of near-road paddies.
LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (DUBIUS/JERDONI) (Charadrius dubius jerdoni) – Seen on several days, including the breeders on the sandy islands along the Mekong.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
PHEASANT-TAILED JACANA (Hydrophasianus chirurgus) – Seen very well at Phnom Krom and ATT, and briefly at Prek Toal.
BRONZE-WINGED JACANA (Metopidius indicus) – Excellent views on the way out to ATT.

Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, even ones without their breeding garb of pheasant-like tails, are always smashing birds to see. We did very well with them this year, including this one that was part of a very close group around Ang Trapeang Thmor reservoir. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
TEMMINCK'S STINT (Calidris temminckii) – A nice pickup at the flooded paddies at Phnom Krom.
LONG-TOED STINT (Calidris subminuta) – Phnom Krom.
PIN-TAILED SNIPE (Gallinago stenura) – Phnom Krom.
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos) – Mekong.
GREEN SANDPIPER (Tringa ochropus) – Heard by some at the Vulture Restaurant.
SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus) – Prek Toal.
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia) – Phnom Krom and then other watery bits.
MARSH SANDPIPER (Tringa stagnatilis) – Phnom Krom and Prek Toal.
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola) – Phnom Krom, ATT, Prek Toal.
Turnicidae (Buttonquail)
SMALL BUTTONQUAIL (Turnix sylvaticus) – Prolay Grasslands.
BARRED BUTTONQUAIL (Turnix suscitator) – Tmatboey.
Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)
ORIENTAL PRATINCOLE (Glareola maldivarum) – Including a big flock at Phnom Krom.
SMALL PRATINCOLE (Glareola lactea) – Excellent experiences with these guys along the Mekong, including doing some display flights in circles around us.

Small Pratincoles are a habitat specialists, breeding on sandbar islands in the Mekong River, and this year we had fantastic luck with them, with at least three pairs, and a couple of males performing display flights. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BROWN-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus brunnicephalus) – A nice pickup on the boat ride on Tonlé Sap Lake.
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida) – A few at Phnom Krom, and big numbers on Tonlé Sap.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) – Yippee. [I]
ORIENTAL TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia orientalis) – One in late evening as we departed Dak Dam on our first evening at Seima.
RED COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia tranquebarica) – Abundant throughout.
SPOTTED DOVE (Streptopelia chinensis) – Common, especially in the dry dipterocarp.
BARRED CUCKOO-DOVE (Macropygia unchall) – A couple of spots around Seima produced this distinctive, long-tailed columbid for us.
ASIAN EMERALD DOVE (Chalcophaps indica) – Nice views at Seima of this normally very shy understory dove.
ZEBRA DOVE (Geopelia striata) – Common common common.
ORANGE-BREASTED PIGEON (Treron bicinctus) – A couple around Tmatboey and a flyover at Seima.
THICK-BILLED PIGEON (Treron curvirostra) – Our most widespread treron (green pigeon), we had these at Tmatboey and Seima.
YELLOW-FOOTED PIGEON (Treron phoenicopterus) – Most of us had one of these teed up at Tmatboey.
PIN-TAILED PIGEON (Treron apicauda) – This very distinctive green pigeon was abundant in some places around Seima.
GREEN IMPERIAL-PIGEON (Ducula aenea) – Tmatboey.
MOUNTAIN IMPERIAL-PIGEON (Ducula badia) – Seima.

Green-billed Malkohas are usually very secretive birds, but this one at the Oromis interrupted our lunch to give us fantastic views as it clambered around a nearby tree and then swooped down across the courtyard. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
GREATER COUCAL (Centropus sinensis) – Widespread, and best detected by its booming, haunting calls.
GREEN-BILLED MALKOHA (Phaenicophaeus tristis) – Our best views were at lunch at the Oromis resort in the Seima area.
ASIAN KOEL (Eudynamys scolopaceus) – Heard in many places, but only seen a couple of times.
VIOLET CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus) – Great views and listens at the Stoeng Chuuk river in Tmatboey.
BANDED BAY CUCKOO (Cacomantis sonneratii) – Tmatboey.
PLAINTIVE CUCKOO (Cacomantis merulinus) – Phnom Krom, ATT, Prek Toal, and Prolay
LARGE HAWK-CUCKOO (Hierococcyx sparverioides) – One of these huge cuckoos was seen at Tmatboey.
HIMALAYAN CUCKOO (Cuculus saturatus) – Early on the tour at Phnom Krom.
Strigidae (Owls)
ORIENTAL SCOPS-OWL (Otus sunia) – Very nice views one evening at Tmatboey.
BROWN FISH-OWL (Ketupa zeylonensis) – Tmatboey. What a cool looking owl, even if you can only see its head sticking out of a nest hole!
ASIAN BARRED OWLET (Glaucidium cuculoides) – Angkor Wat, where we were inundated with a cacophony of their calls, and then hunting the feeder at Tmatboey.
SPOTTED OWLET (Athene brama) – ATT
SPOTTED WOOD-OWL (Strix seloputo) – A very cool looking owl at ATT.
BROWN WOOD-OWL (Strix leptogrammica) – Tmatboey.
BROWN BOOBOOK (Ninox scutulata burmanica) – A surprise pickup in the forest at Angkor Wat- a great find by Chea.

We had a great experience with this Oriental Scops-Owl on one of our evening excursions at Tmatboey. Photo by participant Claudi Racionero.

Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
GRAY NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus jotaka) – Another surprise high up on a day roost at the Jahoo Gibbon Camp at Seima.
LARGE-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus macrurus bimaculatus) – Heard at Tmatboey and Baeng Toal.
SAVANNA NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus affinis monticolus) – Some nice dusk views (both perched and in flight) of this impressively large nightjar at Tmatboey.
Apodidae (Swifts)
SILVER-BACKED NEEDLETAIL (Hirundapus cochinchinensis) – A brief flyby at Phnom Krom, but then some excellent views of this awesome giant swift at Seima. Needletails are the fastest animals on the planet in a straight line distance (falcons reach faster speeds only in a stoop with the help of gravity).
HIMALAYAN SWIFTLET (Aerodramus brevirostris) – A few around Seima.
GERMAIN'S SWIFTLET (Aerodramus germani) – Common and widespread.
HOUSE SWIFT (Apus nipalensis) – Seima.
ASIAN PALM-SWIFT (Cypsiurus balasiensis) – Common in appropriate habitat.
Hemiprocnidae (Treeswifts)
CRESTED TREESWIFT (Hemiprocne coronata) – Very cool birds, and seen on most days of the second half of the tour.
Trogonidae (Trogons)
RED-HEADED TROGON (Harpactes erythrocephalus) – A very vocal but flighty pair at the Jahoo Gibbon Camp at Seima.
ORANGE-BREASTED TROGON (Harpactes oreskios) – Good views at the Jahoo Gibbon Camp.
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops) – Seen in several places, with the best views for all coming at Baeng Toal.
Bucerotidae (Hornbills)
ORIENTAL PIED-HORNBILL (Anthracoceros albirostris) – Seen on each of the final six days of the tour.

Chinese Pond-Herons were our constant companions through much of the tour, even in places without an appreciable amount of water. This one leaping into action during our boat ride at Prek Toal was captured beautifully by participant Linda Rudolph.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
COMMON KINGFISHER (COMMON) (Alcedo atthis taprobana) – Seen several times between ATT and Prolay.
BANDED KINGFISHER (Lacedo pulchella) – Heard in the distance at the Jahoo Gibbon Camp. [*]
WHITE-THROATED KINGFISHER (Halcyon smyrnensis perpulchra) – This widespread species throughout Eurasia was seen on only a couple of days.
BLACK-CAPPED KINGFISHER (Halcyon pileata) – Seen at Angkor Wat and then exceptionally well at the Stoeng Chuuk.
PIED KINGFISHER (Ceryle rudis leucomelanurus) – ATT and the Mekong.
Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
BLUE-BEARDED BEE-EATER (Nyctyornis athertoni athertoni) – Heard at Seima while we were trying to coax out the Bar-bellied Pitta. [*]
GREEN BEE-EATER (RUSSET-CROWNED) (Merops orientalis ferrugeiceps) – Fairly widespread.
BLUE-TAILED BEE-EATER (Merops philippinus) – Widespread and common in appropriate habitat.
CHESTNUT-HEADED BEE-EATER (Merops leschenaulti leschenaulti) – Seen well at Tmatboey and Seima.
Coraciidae (Rollers)
INDIAN ROLLER (BLACK-BILLED) (Coracias benghalensis affinis) – First views were at Phnom Krom, but then many thereafter as well.
Megalaimidae (Asian Barbets)
COPPERSMITH BARBET (Psilopogon haemacephalus) – Best views at ATT.
BLUE-EARED BARBET (Psilopogon duvaucelii) – Seima.
RED-VENTED BARBET (Psilopogon lagrandieri) – Big barbet! Seima.
GREEN-EARED BARBET (Psilopogon faiostrictus) – Another fairly big one, also at Seima.
LINEATED BARBET (Psilopogon lineatus) – Common and widespread.
INDOCHINESE BARBET (Psilopogon annamensis) – Seima.

Indochinese Barbets were plentiful around the Seima Protection Forest area. Their loud and incessant vocalizations will stay with you while you sleep, but it's a worthwhile cross to bear for a bird that looks like this! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Picidae (Woodpeckers)
SPECKLED PICULET (Picumnus innominatus) – Our first morning at Seima.
WHITE-BROWED PICULET (Sasia ochracea) – Jahoo Gibbon Camp, seen very well.
GRAY-CAPPED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos canicapillus) – The common small woodpecker seen throughout.
FRECKLE-BREASTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos analis) – Seen briefly at ATT.
YELLOW-CROWNED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos mahrattensis) – A very low density species, and a nice pickup at Tmatboey.
RUFOUS-BELLIED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos hyperythrus) – Excellent views of this strikingly beautiful woodpecker at Tmatboey.
LESSER YELLOWNAPE (Picus chlorolophus) – Phil, Linda, and a few others at Prek Toal.
BLACK-HEADED WOODPECKER (Picus erythropygius) – Whoa!! What an amazing looking woodpecker! We got great views of these on a couple of days in the dry dipterocarp forests of the north.
COMMON FLAMEBACK (Dinopium javanense) – Seen at Tmatboey and Baeng Toal.
BLACK-AND-BUFF WOODPECKER (Meiglyptes jugularis) – A very responsive and fairly cooperative individual at the Stoeng Chuuk River at Tmatboey. What a bizarre, almost tailless, woodpecker.
GREATER FLAMEBACK (GREATER) (Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus guttacristatus) – Seen in Tmatboey, Baeng Toal, and then again in a different habitat at Dak Dam.
GREAT SLATY WOODPECKER (Mulleripicus pulverulentus) – Very good views of an uncharacteristically lone bird at Tmatboey.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
WHITE-RUMPED FALCON (Polihierax insignis) – A great eleventh hour save by Linda in the heat of the day at the nesting area on the way up to Tmatboey.
COLLARED FALCONET (Microhierax caerulescens) – These adorable little mini-falcons were seen on three different days, and every time elicited reactions that appropriately reflected their awesomeness.
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus) – One bird perched in the shade of a large tree on the island where we disembarked in the center of the Mekong.

A cuckoo that's violet. That must got it: a Violet Cuckoo! This one was particularly cooperative at the Stoeng Chuuk River near Tmatboey. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Psittaculidae (Old World Parrots)
ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET (Psittacula eupatria) – Days two and five. Great views of birds investigating a potential nesting cavity at Ta Prohm.
BLOSSOM-HEADED PARAKEET (Psittacula roseata) – Fairly common in the dry dipterocarp.
RED-BREASTED PARAKEET (Psittacula alexandri) – Common in appropriate habitat.
VERNAL HANGING-PARROT (Loriculus vernalis) – A better than average experience with these, seeing them perched at both Baeng Toal and at Seima. We even got to repeatedly see them as they hung upside down to forage.
Eurylaimidae (Asian and Grauer's Broadbills)
SILVER-BREASTED BROADBILL (Serilophus lunatus) – A really nice surprise at the Jahoo Gibbon Camp, this is a very elegant looking broadbill, and our sole representative of this family.
Pittidae (Pittas)
BAR-BELLIED PITTA (Hydrornis elliotii) – Tantalizingly close to being seen, it almost certainly saw us, given how close its calls were coming from. [*]
Vangidae (Vangas, Helmetshrikes, and Allies)
LARGE WOODSHRIKE (Tephrodornis virgatus) – Seen in both dry forest and Seima.
COMMON WOODSHRIKE (Tephrodornis pondicerianus) – Abundant in the dry dipterocarp forests, including actively nesting pairs.
BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER-SHRIKE (Hemipus picatus) – A nice view of a bird on our final evening around Seima.
Artamidae (Woodswallows)
ASHY WOODSWALLOW (Artamus fuscus) – Mondolkiri.
Aegithinidae (Ioras)
COMMON IORA (Aegithina tiphia) – Common indeed in the dry forests.
GREAT IORA (Aegithina lafresnayei) – Nice views of one of these at Tmatboey's Stoeng Chuuk River.

A strategically placed leaf shielded these Crested Treeswifts from our prying eyes, though they surely didn't show an ounce of shame regardless. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Campephagidae (Cuckooshrikes)
SMALL MINIVET (Pericrocotus cinnamomeus) – The go-to minivet in the dry forests this time around.
SCARLET MINIVET (Pericrocotus speciosus) – Scattered in low density.
ASHY MINIVET (Pericrocotus divaricatus) – The most widespread minivet, sometimes in flocks of over twenty individuals.
BROWN-RUMPED MINIVET (Pericrocotus cantonensis) – After brief views early in the tour, the minivet formerly known as Swinhoe's finally came good at the Stoeng Chuuk overlook at the end of our Tmatboey stay.
LARGE CUCKOOSHRIKE (Coracina macei) – An impressive bird. Tmatboey.
BLACK-WINGED CUCKOOSHRIKE (Lalage melaschistos) – Seima.
INDOCHINESE CUCKOOSHRIKE (Lalage polioptera) – Tmatboey.
Laniidae (Shrikes)
BROWN SHRIKE (Lanius cristatus) – Scattered throughout.
BURMESE SHRIKE (Lanius collurioides) – Especially good looks at Baeng Toal, though also seen and heard well at Tmatboey.
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
CLICKING SHRIKE-BABBLER (CLICKING) (Pteruthius intermedius intermedius) – A very big surprise near the Vietnam border in Seima! This is apparently only the third documented record for the country. After a while everyone did get reasonable looks at this very boldly patterned bird!
WHITE-BELLIED ERPORNIS (Erpornis zantholeuca) – Finally some nice views at Jahoo Gibbon Camp.

Here a Thick-billed Crow (formerly known as Southern Jungle Crow) is seen giving the business to a poor Gray-headed Fish-Eagle which was just minding its own business looking for some fish to fry. This prompted the eagle to start loudly calling, which just added to the experience. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
BLACK-NAPED ORIOLE (Oriolus chinensis) – Across all habitats, interestingly enough.
BLACK-HOODED ORIOLE (Oriolus xanthornus) – Like the prior species, not very habitat specific, as long as there are some trees.
Dicruridae (Drongos)
BLACK DRONGO (Dicrurus macrocercus) – Almost every day of the tour. Mostly in open landscapes, rather than denser forests.
ASHY DRONGO (Dicrurus leucophaeus) – At least three taxa of this species, including ashy ones, blackish ones, and the Chinese white-faced ones. Very common in forested areas.
BRONZED DRONGO (Dicrurus aeneus) – Our first morning at Seima.
HAIR-CRESTED DRONGO (Dicrurus hottentottus) – Briefly at Tmatboey, and then better at Seima.
GREATER RACKET-TAILED DRONGO (Dicrurus paradiseus) – Scattered throughout, with some very nice views. When this bird flies- oh man!
Rhipiduridae (Fantails)
MALAYSIAN PIED-FANTAIL (Rhipidura javanica) – ATT and Prek Toal.
WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL (Rhipidura albicollis) – Seima.
WHITE-BROWED FANTAIL (Rhipidura aureola) – Dry forests.
Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers)
BLACK-NAPED MONARCH (Hypothymis azurea) – Angkor Wat and Seima.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN JAY (WHITE-FACED) (Garrulus glandarius leucotis) – Raven, Soo, and Chea had one of these distinctive white-faced versions of Eurasian Jay as we came into Baeng Toal.
RED-BILLED BLUE-MAGPIE (Urocissa erythroryncha) – Tmatboey on a couple of days, including a group of six that flew across the road just prior to dusk one evening.
RUFOUS TREEPIE (Dendrocitta vagabunda) – A really nice surprise at the White-rumped Falcon spot. This is one that can be really difficult to connect with!
RACKET-TAILED TREEPIE (Crypsirina temia) – Ol' blue eyes! In addition to their long and funky tails, their irises are cobalt blue. Seen briefly on the first morning, and then on a couple of days near the Mekong River.
LARGE-BILLED CROW (LARGE-BILLED) (Corvus macrorhynchos macrorhynchos) – Scattered throughout. Sometimes very vocal and aggressive (see the Prek Toal Fish-Eagle episode!).

Black Baza is one of the most striking raptors around, from their bold and intricate patterning, to their odd wing shape and arboreal habits, it's just a darn fun bird! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Alaudidae (Larks)
AUSTRALASIAN BUSHLARK (Mirafra javanica horsfieldii) – Nice views along the two tracks at Prolay.
INDOCHINESE BUSHLARK (Mirafra erythrocephala) – Very good looks at this forest-dwelling bushlark on our first full day at Tmatboey.
ORIENTAL SKYLARK (Alauda gulgula) – Sky high sing-songers displaying the day away at Prolay.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
GRAY-THROATED MARTIN (Riparia chinensis) – Excellent views of this very habitat specific species around our sandy island in the Mekong!
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia) – Widespread and sometimes abundant (Prolay especially).
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica) – Every single day of the tour!
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (Cecropis daurica) – Especially common during the second half of the tour. Our highest densities were in the evenings at Tmatboey, and then along the river where we had lunch on our final drive to Phnom Penh.
Stenostiridae (Fairy Flycatchers)
GRAY-HEADED CANARY-FLYCATCHER (Culicicapa ceylonensis) – Steung Chuuk, Baeng Toal, and Jahoo Gibbon Camp.
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
BURMESE NUTHATCH (Sitta neglecta) – The artist formerly known as Neglected Nuthatch. We had a great experience with one of these at Tmatboey, and then had brief views at Baeng Toal.
VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH (Sitta frontalis) – Tmatboey and Seima.
Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)
BLACK-HEADED BULBUL (Pycnonotus atriceps) – Phil and Raven had one at Tmatboey, and then everyone caught up with them at Seima.
BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL (Pycnonotus flaviventris) – Multiple locations, but common in Seima.
RED-WHISKERED BULBUL (Pycnonotus jocosus) – Seima.
SOOTY-HEADED BULBUL (Pycnonotus aurigaster) – Most days once we left the Siem Reap area.
STRIPE-THROATED BULBUL (Pycnonotus finlaysoni) – Stoeng Chuuk and Seima.
YELLOW-VENTED BULBUL (Pycnonotus goiavier) – Scattered in low densities throughout.

A view of one of the asuras (demon gods) that line the bridge over the moat at the south gate into Angkor Thom. The archaeological and anthropological history of this region is a never ending trove, and the manpower that this kingdom must have commanded in order to make all of the great works in the area is truly mindboggling. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

STREAK-EARED BULBUL (Pycnonotus conradi) – Low densities in several locations.
PUFF-THROATED BULBUL (Alophoixus pallidus) – Seima.
GRAY-EYED BULBUL (Iole propinqua) – Seima.
BLACK BULBUL (Hypsipetes leucocephalus) – Abundant in Seima.
ASHY BULBUL (Hemixos flavala) – Seen by a few folks at Seima.
MOUNTAIN BULBUL (Ixos mcclellandii) – A scarce one which we found once or twice at Seima.
Scotocercidae (Bush Warblers and Allies)
YELLOW-BELLIED WARBLER (Abroscopus superciliaris) – In a bamboo tangle in the forest at Jahoo Gibbon Camp.
Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)
DUSKY WARBLER (Phylloscopus fuscatus) – Actually seen atypically well on the first morning at Phnom Krom. Heard on many other occasions.
YELLOW-BROWED WARBLER (Phylloscopus inornatus) – Abundant, but often heard only. We did catch up with good views of it in several places by the end of the tour. One of the most commonly heard species on this tour.
ARCTIC WARBLER (Phylloscopus borealis) – A nice find at the Stoeng Chuuk river on our final morning at Tmatboey.
TWO-BARRED WARBLER (Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus) – A couple of spots around Seima.
PALE-LEGGED LEAF WARBLER (Phylloscopus tenellipes) – Its high-pitched metallic chip notes were heard by some at Angkor Wat and then again at Seima, but we never did lay eyes on it.
Acrocephalidae (Reed Warblers and Allies)
BLACK-BROWED REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus bistrigiceps) – ATT and Prek Toal.
MANCHURIAN REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus tangorum) – Eventually had very good views of this bad boy at the Prolay Grasslands.
ORIENTAL REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus orientalis) – Fairly widespread. A big honker of an acrocephalus.

Manchurian Reed-Warblers are difficult to track down, but we eventually had good success with a staked out individual at the Prolay Grasslands. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Locustellidae (Grassbirds and Allies)
STRIATED GRASSBIRD (Megalurus palustris) – Great experiences with a few singing birds at Prolay.
LANCEOLATED WARBLER (Locustella lanceolata) – We heard a couple of them at Phnom Krom, but as is usually the case, they stayed well hidden in their brushy kingdoms.
Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)
ZITTING CISTICOLA (ZITTING) (Cisticola juncidis tinnabulans) – The interesting double-note zits of the tinnabulans subspecies surrounded us during our morning at Prolay.
COMMON TAILORBIRD (Orthotomus sutorius) – Common in disturbed and second growth habitats. Even present at the Sonalong in Siem Reap.
DARK-NECKED TAILORBIRD (Orthotomus atrogularis) – The jungle specialist tailorbird, we got especially good views of this loud chatterer at the Stoeng Chuuk River.
CAMBODIAN TAILORBIRD (Orthotomus chaktomuk) – Good views of a couple of these very range-restricted and only recently described to science endemics near Phnom Penh on our final day. [E]
BROWN PRINIA (Prinia polychroa) – Good views at the White-rumped Falcon spot.
RUFESCENT PRINIA (Prinia rufescens) – Scattered through the forests at Tmatboey.
YELLOW-BELLIED PRINIA (Prinia flaviventris) – Heard all over the island in the Mekong but we somehow never laid eyes on it. They are amazingly secretive despite their vocal aggressiveness.
PLAIN PRINIA (Prinia inornata) – Common in the birding areas around Siem Reap.
Zosteropidae (White-eyes, Yuhinas, and Allies)
ORIENTAL WHITE-EYE (Zosterops palpebrosus) – A few around Seima, though almost always high in the canopy.

Breakfast on the front deck at Jahoo Gibbon Camp was a wonderful experience, and our petit dejeuner came with accompaniment from hornbills, leafbirds, flowerpeckers, sunbirds and more! Photo by participant Linda Rudolph.

Timaliidae (Tree-Babblers, Scimitar-Babblers, and Allies)
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BABBLER (Timalia pileata) – Some got real nice views of this at Phnom Krom and Baeng Toal.
PIN-STRIPED TIT-BABBLER (Mixornis gularis) – Stoeng Chuuk and Seima.
WHITE-BROWED SCIMITAR-BABBLER (Pomatorhinus schisticeps) – Seen briefly a couple of times at Seima. This species barely gets into Cambodia, and this was perhaps the first time we've seen it here on tour.
Pellorneidae (Ground Babblers and Allies)
SCALY-CROWNED BABBLER (Malacopteron cinereum) – One of the first birds we happened upon in the forest at Jahoo Gibbon Camp. Good views.
ABBOTT'S BABBLER (Turdinus abbotti) – Heard only by the Steung Chuuk River at Tmatboey. [*]
Leiothrichidae (Laughingthrushes and Allies)
BLACK-BROWED FULVETTA (Alcippe grotei) – A nice low density species that barely gets over the border from Vietnam. We got good studies of a air of them along the trail on our final evening at Seima.
WHITE-CRESTED LAUGHINGTHRUSH (Garrulax leucolophus) – After several brief and frustrating encounters with vocal flocks of these where some folks got to see birds (about par for the course, really), we had a group at our final evening's birding location that actually perched up in bushes across the narrow valley long enough for us to all get scope views!
WHITE-CHEEKED LAUGHINGTHRUSH (Ianthocincla vassali) – A very vocal flock during our first morning birding at Seima, though they were tricky to get good looks at.
Irenidae (Fairy-bluebirds)
ASIAN FAIRY-BLUEBIRD (Irena puella) – Repeatedly excellent views of this supremely wonderful being.

White-throated Rock-Thrush can be bloody difficult to track down, but this year we had a fantastic male in the forest adjacent to the breathtaking tample of Angkor Wat. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
ASIAN BROWN FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa dauurica) – Our most common flycatcher.
ORIENTAL MAGPIE-ROBIN (Copsychus saularis) – Scattered here and there. Widespread but not super abundant.
WHITE-RUMPED SHAMA (Copsychus malabaricus) – Surprisingly great views of this almost always very shy bird, as a pair of them were very interested by a tree cavity, or perhaps something that we couldn't see inside the cavity. They were doing lots of calling and flitting about, and seemingly couldn't care less about our presence. A big change from how they usually are in the jungle.
HAINAN BLUE FLYCATCHER (Cyornis hainanus) – Good views at Angkor Wat, and then a couple of others scattered throughout.
VERDITER FLYCATCHER (Eumyias thalassinus) – Nice views in Seima.
BLUETHROAT (Luscinia svecica) – A nice male out in the open at the Prolay Grasslands.
TAIGA FLYCATCHER (Ficedula albicilla) – A few, but the best observation was the one that was interacting with an Asian Brown Flycatcher at the Royal Gardens.
WHITE-THROATED ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola gularis) – We got really fortunate with good views of a male at Angkor Wat. This species can be a devil to get looks at, and ours posed on an open perch for what seemed like an eternity, long enough for second helpings of scope views for everyone. Great!
BLUE ROCK-THRUSH (PHILIPPENSIS) (Monticola solitarius philippensis) – A male was perched up on the facade of Angkor Wat at the end of our morning forest tromp there.
SIBERIAN STONECHAT (PRZEVALSKI'S) (Saxicola maurus przewalskii) – Seen on more than half the days.
PIED BUSHCHAT (Saxicola caprata) – Common and widespread in appropriate open habitats.
Sturnidae (Starlings)
GOLDEN-CRESTED MYNA (Ampeliceps coronatus) – KM 159 in Seima.
COMMON HILL MYNA (Gracula religiosa) – Some at Angkor Thom, and then again briefly at KM 159 at Seima.
BLACK-COLLARED STARLING (Gracupica nigricollis) – Fairly common and widespread, though not present around Seima.
ASIAN PIED STARLING (Gracupica contra) – A nice pickup at Prolay.
WHITE-SHOULDERED STARLING (Sturnia sinensis) – Seen more than normal on this tour, with encounters in several regions!
CHESTNUT-TAILED STARLING (Sturnia malabarica) – A flock of three were briefly perched over us in the forest at Baeng Toal.
COMMON MYNA (Acridotheres tristis) – Yup.
VINOUS-BREASTED STARLING (Acridotheres burmannicus) – Seen on several occasions, from Tmatboey, to on top of the carcasses at Baeng Toal, to Seima.
GREAT MYNA (Acridotheres grandis) – Especially prevalent during the first portion of the tour.
Chloropseidae (Leafbirds)
BLUE-WINGED LEAFBIRD (Chloropsis cochinchinensis) – Seima.
GOLDEN-FRONTED LEAFBIRD (Chloropsis aurifrons) – Dry forest in the north and then Seima.

You can scarcely find a more stately looking sunbird than a male Van Hasselt's Sunbird, and we were graced with excellent views of this one near Tmatboey. This species is was named after Johan Conrad van Hasselt, a Dutch zoologist who died at age 26 on a research trip to Java, but not before he sent back over 2,000 bird skins. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

Dicaeidae (Flowerpeckers)
THICK-BILLED FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum agile) – Briefly a couple of times around Seima.
PLAIN FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum minullum) – Common in Seima.
FIRE-BREASTED FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum ignipectus) – Dak Dam at Seima.
SCARLET-BACKED FLOWERPECKER (Dicaeum cruentatum) – At the lunch restaurant at Angkor Wat, then at the Oromis and then Dak Dam.
Nectariniidae (Sunbirds and Spiderhunters)
RUBY-CHEEKED SUNBIRD (Chalcoparia singalensis) – Steung Chuuk River.
PLAIN-THROATED SUNBIRD (BROWN-THROATED) (Anthreptes malacensis malacensis) – Angkor Wat.
VAN HASSELT'S SUNBIRD (Leptocoma brasiliana emmae) – What a gorgeous bird! A fantastic male was very inquisitive and vocal at the Steung Chuuk River.
PURPLE SUNBIRD (Cinnyris asiaticus) – Abundant in the dry dipterocarp forests of Tmatboey and Baeng Toal.

Mekong Wagtail, one of the big targets of our Mekong River boat trip, performed exceptionally well this year. Photo by participant Claudi Racionero.

OLIVE-BACKED SUNBIRD (OLIVE-BACKED) (Cinnyris jugularis flammaxillaris) – Widespread.
BLACK-THROATED SUNBIRD (Aethopyga saturata johnsi) – The johnsi subspecies that may eventually be split into its own species. A couple of males put on great shows in a couple of locations around Seima.
CRIMSON SUNBIRD (Aethopyga siparaja) – Boom! This is a show-stopper even among the already show-stopping sunbird family.
LITTLE SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera longirostra) – Nice views a couple of times around Seima, including at Oromis.
PURPLE-NAPED SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera hypogrammicum) – A nice experience with this species in the forest at Jahoo Gibbon Camp.
STREAKED SPIDERHUNTER (Arachnothera magna) – Some big and loud ones on our first morning birding around Seima.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
EASTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (EASTERN) (Motacilla tschutschensis tschutschensis) – Possibly of the taivana subspecies, on our first and fourth days.
EASTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (MANCHURIAN) (Motacilla tschutschensis macronyx) – The more common yellow wagtail taxon in the region.
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea) – A couple of calling flybys in the Seima area.
WHITE WAGTAIL (CHINESE) (Motacilla alba leucopsis) – A nice surprise on our first morning at Phnom Krom.
MEKONG WAGTAIL (Motacilla samveasnae) – At least five of these recently described species on our Mekong River boat ride.
RICHARD'S PIPIT (Anthus richardi) – A fairly skittish bird in the fields near the vulture hide at Baeng Toal. A species we don't typically encounter here.
PADDYFIELD PIPIT (Anthus rufulus) – Fairly widespread in appropriate habitat.
OLIVE-BACKED PIPIT (Anthus hodgsoni) – Our best experience was the bird that gave us excellent views in the field at Baeng Toal.
RED-THROATED PIPIT (Anthus cervinus) – Fairly common at Prolay.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) – Indeed we encountered them on six days.
PLAIN-BACKED SPARROW (Passer flaveolus) – We caught up with this regional (and prettier than the prior) species of passer sparrow in multiple locations, including gathering nesting material at ATT.
EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus) – The most common and widespread passer here.
Ploceidae (Weavers and Allies)
BAYA WEAVER (Ploceus philippinus) – A surprise encounter with a flock of around 100 along the roadside at ATT. Very nice! Also amazing how so many can just melt into a bush like that!
ASIAN GOLDEN WEAVER (Ploceus hypoxanthus) – In the paddies at Kratie.
Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies)
WHITE-RUMPED MUNIA (Lonchura striata) – Tmatboey and Seima.
SCALY-BREASTED MUNIA (Lonchura punctulata) – Seen sporadically throughout The common munia in Cambodia.
CHESTNUT MUNIA (Lonchura atricapilla) – A real nice surprise at Prolay, and Phil's first for Cambodia! They were even attending a nest.

This White-shouldered Ibis flew by us during a Tmatboey dawn. There are very few of these left on Earth, and we were fortunate to run into them in different settings three separate times on our tour. This one was captured by participant Claudi Racionero.

LYLE'S FLYING FOX (Pteropus lylei) – The big Flying Fox roost at the Siem Reap Royal Gardens.
NORTHERN TREESHREW (Tupaia berlangeri) – Some saw one of these near the feeders at Tmatboey.
CRAB-EATING MACAQUE (Macaca fascigularis) – Angkor Wat and Seima.
PIGTAIL MACAQUE (Macaca nemestrina) – One alongside the road at Angkor Wat.
BLACK-SHANKED DOUC LANGUR (Pygathrix nigripes) – A fairly scarce primate, and we caught up to it one evening in the forest at Seima.
YELLOW-CHEEKED GIBBON (Nomascus gabriellae) – A big score on our final morning at Seima! A lifer for Phil, and very scarcely encountered away from known roosting sites! We even got to hear it serenade us with its eerie wailing calls.
FINLAYSON'S SQUIRREL (Callosciurus finlaysoni) – Gorgeous beasts. Also known as Variable Squirrel, they can be a somewhat rich dark brown, to essentially red, but that white band at the base of the tail always stands out regardless.
GRAY-BELLIED SQUIRREL (Callosciurus caniceps) – These are the ones around Seima.
CAMBODIAN FLYING SQUIRREL (Tamiops rodolphii) – Very common in the dry dipterocarp.
RICEFIELD RAT (Rattus argentiventer) – We watched one of these paddle across a canal at ATT, alternately swimming and surfing atop lily pads.
IRRAWADDY DOLPHIN (Orcaella brevirostris) – We got these very endangered marine mammals quickly, easily, and repeatedly on our Mekong River expedition this year, even seeing some of them from shore before we got on the boat. What a great animal!
SMALL ASIAN MONGOOSE (Herpestes javanicus) – Seen briefly on the first morning by some.

Irrawaddy Dolphins are now an exceptionally rare, and declining, species. They have a fairly low profile in the water most of the time, but when you get as close to them as we did this year, you can see them very well! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.

COMMON HOUSE GECKO (Hemidactylus frenatus) – Common and widespread.
TOKAY GECKO (Gekko gecko) – Our encounters with their loud calls surprisingly included a few diurnal instances. We finally saw one of these big and colorful gecko-eating geckos around the main lodge building at Tmatboey.
INDO-CHINESE SAND SNAKE (Psammophis indochinensis ) – One of these almost went right up Brigitte's pant leg at the Prolay Grasslands, before perfectly merging into a tiny tussock of grass so that we couldn't see it any more even though we knew exactly where it was.
INDOCHINESE FOREST LIZARD (Calotes mystaceus) – Allan had one of these around Siem Reap.


We had a great collection of butterflies, some of which defied identification, but we did come up with identifications for many of them. The following list is as complete as we could figure out, and is largely thanks to participant Allan Keith.

Great Mormon - Papilio Mormon

Banded Swallowtail - Papilio demolion 13 Feb Angkor Wat

Golden Birdwing - Troides aeneus 21 Feb Kratie

Common Birdwing - Troides helena

Common Bluebottle - Graphium sarpedon 23 Feb near Modulkiri

Black and White Helen - Papilio nephelus 14 Feb ATT

Common Rose - Pachliopta aristolochiae

Lemon Emigrant - Catopsilla pomona

Painted Jezebel - Delias hyparete

Tree Yellow - Grandaca harina

Common Grass Yellow - Eurema hecabe 24 Feb Modolkiri

Great Orange Tip - Hebomoia glaucippe 19 Feb Stoeng Chuuk

Indian Palm Bob - Suatus gremius

Gray Pansy - Junonia atlites

Common Sailer - Neptis hylas

Knight - Lebadea martha

Maylayan Bush-Brown - Mycalesis fusca 13 Feb Angkor Wat

Common Earl - Tenaecia judii 13 Feb Angkor Wat

Courtesan - Euripus nyctelius 13 Feb Angkor Wat

Plain Tiger - Danaus chrysippus 21 Feb Kratie

Common Tiger - Danaus genutia

Clipper - Parthenos sylvia 21 Feb Mondulkiri

Common Three-Ring - Ypthima pandocua 22 Feb Mondulkiri

Blue Glossy Tiger - Ideoposis vulgaris 22 Feb Mondulkiri

Great Crow - Euploea phaenareta 19 Feb Stoeng Chuuk river

Dark Grass-Brown - Orsotriaena medus 19 Feb Stoeng Chuuk

Common Five-Ring - Ypthima baldus 19 Feb Stoeng Chuuk river

Common Yeoman - Cirrochroa tyche 19 Feb Stoeng Chuuk river

Blue Pansy - Junonia orithya 19 Feb Stoeng Thuuk river area

Dark Grass-Blue - Zizeeria karsandra

Chocolate Royal - Remelana jangala

Inornate Blue - Neopithecops zalmora

Common Tit - Hypolycaena crylus 13 Feb Angkor Wat

White Hedge Blue - Udara akasa 22 Feb Mondulkiri

Centaur Oakblue - Arhopala centaurus 18 Feb Tamatboey

Totals for the tour: 300 bird taxa and 12 mammal taxa