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Field Guides Tour Report
Safari Brazil: The Pantanal & More 2015
Oct 10, 2015 to Oct 25, 2015
Marcelo Padua & Jay VanderGaast

Giant Anteaters can be hard to see -- but not on this tour! Aguape seems to be the epicenter for these odd animals; we saw an astounding NINE on one drive! Photo by participant Peter Bono.

This was such a fun tour! This was a new region of Brazil for me, and I had long wanted to visit both the Pantanal and Emas National Park, in particular, so I was really excited when the opportunity to co-lead this tour came my way. I sensed quite a bit of anticipation from all of you as well, and I think it's safe to say that none of us came away disappointed with what we saw and experienced. And how could we, when we tallied roughly 400 species of birds, including prizes like the spectacular Hyacinth Macaw, fantastic displaying Streamer-tailed Tyrants, and the stunning Blue Finch, and met up with so many of South America's most sought after and charismatic large mammal species? Some of those sightings are still getting my heart racing!

We kicked off the tour in the Pantanal, splitting our time between two very different, yet equally wonderful venues in the southern part of the region. Fazenda Aguape was a charming, quiet ranch in the middle of a mosaic of savanna, dry forest, and farmland, and it held a rich variety of wildlife. The aforementioned Hyacinth Macaws, nesting in a hollow palm right next to the dining area were definitely a highlight, but the Fazenda also offered up local specialties like beautiful Blaze-winged Parakeets, skulking Chestnut-capped Foliage-gleaners, and a twitchy Planalto Slaty-Antshrike, not to mention more Giant Anteaters than any of us even imagined would be possible to see on one trip. And San Francisco's vast rice-growing operation harbored an astounding number of birds with Maguari Storks, Southern Screamers, Bare-faced Ibis and many more in sometimes unbelievable numbers. Ash-throated Crake, Striped Owl, and striking Pale-crested Woodpeckers were among the many other bird highlights here, and the mammals weren't bad either, with plenty of Ocelots and a Jaguar being standouts.

Next, we moved on to the remote and magnificent grasslands of Emas National Park, which gave us a glimpse of what much of this region of Brazil must have looked like a century ago. Here in the scrubby savannas, we enjoyed a bunch of very local specialties, from Campo Miners feeding on the scorched path of a recent fire, to charming Cock-tailed Tyrants performing display flights over unburnt stretches of taller grass. Coal-crested Finch, Sharp-tailed Tyrant, White-rumped Tanager, and Black-throated Saltator were among the many other fantastic finds in the grasslands, as was the rare and local White-winged Nightjar we saw so close and so well on our night drive. Gallery forests in the park gave us Helmeted Manakins, White-striped Warblers, and (for some) the rare Russet-mantled Foliage-gleaner, among others, and the mammal show was headlined by a huge Brazilian Tapir feeding on the roadside. Oh, and I should mention the scarce Pampas Cat we found in a field of cane stubble en route to the park, too!

Changing gears and flying east, we landed in the city of Belo Horizonte then drove up onto the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo, where a bunch of other cerrado specialists awaited us. In our brief time there, we added the very local Cipo Canastero, the previously mentioned Blue Finch, cute Gray-backed Tachuris, Cinnamon Tanager, and several hummingbirds, including stunning Hyacinth Visorbearers and dainty Horned Sungems. And we rounded out our visit with three nights at the wonderful Santuario Caraca, an amazing place not only for the Maned Wolf that comes in for nightly feedings on the terrace (albeit sometimes quite late at night) but also for its abundance of birdlife, with plenty of southeastern endemics spilling over the mountains onto the "dry" slope in the reserve. Among the many standouts here were a pair of Robust Woodpeckers, Serra Antwren, the gorgeous White-bibbed Antbird, a nesting pair of Swallow-tailed Cotingas, and a trio of sublime tanagers: Rufous-headed, Brassy-breasted, and Gilt-edged.

We wrapped up the trip with a visit to the historic village of Ouro Preto, which has a few gilt edges of its own, a memorable finish to an awesome two weeks in the country. Thanks to all of you for joining Marcelo and me on this superb safari. We had a great time guiding you all throughout the trip, and look forward to seeing you all on another one sometime soon.


One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

Rheidae (Rheas)

This Magpie Tanager was flummoxed by its reflection in a truck mirror. Or maybe it was just admiring itself! Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

GREATER RHEA (Rhea americana) – Daily in the Pantanal and cerrado, in both farmland and natural habitats. A memorable sighting of a male with 20+ chicks in one field at San Francisco, where a couple were also regular feeder birds!
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
BROWN TINAMOU (Crypturellus obsoletus) – At Caraca. [*]
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) – Barbara spotted one from the safari truck at Aguape, and with the help of the driver herding it towards the track, everyone else did, too.
RED-WINGED TINAMOU (Rhynchotus rufescens) – Several seen well at Emas NP, including one that got caught in the open between a mostly bare stubble field and the gallery forest, which it seemed loathe to enter, allowing us a nice long look before it finally found some tall grass to hide in.
LESSER NOTHURA (Nothura minor) – Several heard at Emas. [E*]
SPOTTED NOTHURA (Nothura maculosa) – The driver swerved around one in the middle of the road in the agricultural regions west of Chapadao do Sul, then backed up to where it was hiding in the ditch, and we had a super view of it as it skulked back towards the taller corn stubble.
Anhimidae (Screamers)
SOUTHERN SCREAMER (Chauna torquata) – Seen daily at San Francisco.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata) – Small numbers among the more numerous Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks at San Francisco.
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis) – Seen daily in the Pantanal.
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata) – A few of these heavy ducks were seen most days in the Pantanal.
BRAZILIAN TEAL (Amazonetta brasiliensis) – Just a handful each day at our two Pantanal lodges.
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
CHACO CHACHALACA (Ortalis canicollis) – The raucous calls of these birds served as a (too early) wake up call at Aguape, where they were numerous and noisy.

Guira Cuckoos were a daily sighting -- at least until we moved to Belo Horizonte. Photo by participant Bill Byers.

DUSKY-LEGGED GUAN (Penelope obscura) – Pretty habituated at the Sanctuario Caraca, where they visited the "wolf terrace" early and late for food scraps.
BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis) – It was nice to see these large birds so commonly along the rivers at Aguape and San Francisco.
BARE-FACED CURASSOW (Crax fasciolata) – Not numerous, but we saw them most days in the Pantanal, with fine views of both males and females. Love those curly crest feathers!
Ciconiidae (Storks)
MAGUARI STORK (Ciconia maguari) – Good numbers at San Francisco, where we counted an incredible 67 on our first afternoon!
JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria) – Those first ones at Aguape have evidently been fed, as they just kept flying towards us and hanging around rather expectantly, making for nice photo ops, at least/
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana) – Surprisingly only three birds on our final day at San Francisco.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) – Only at San Francisco, where there was a small nesting colony placed strategically above the washrooms at the entrance to one of the trails. [N]
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga) – Fair numbers at San Francisco.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum) – Pretty much all the herons were seen daily in the Pantanal, but nowhere else on the tour. We had these beauties regularly in small numbers.
COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi) – The equivalent of our Great Blue Heron, only more striking. Pretty common.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba) – More numerous than the Snowies, but I was a bit surprised that there weren't far more of these.
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula) – Mainly at San Francisco, but nowhere near the numbers I had expected.
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) – Numerous.

The Red-billed Scythebill is among the most widely distributed of woodcreepers; we saw it well several times in the Pantanal. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata) – Quite numerous, particularly at San Francisco.
WHISTLING HERON (Syrigma sibilatrix) – The only heron we saw regularly away from the Pantanal, with daily sightings of one or two at Emas NP. Seems less reliant on water than most of the other herons.
CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus) – This lovely heron was scarce, and we saw just a single bird on two days at San Francisco. Given the locations of the two sightings, I suspect it was the same bird we saw each time.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax) – We disturbed a big roost of 30+ birds one day at San Francisco.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – Looking incredibly like long-billed Black Vultures, these ibis were a daily sight in the Pantanal.
BARE-FACED IBIS (Phimosus infuscatus) – Especially numerous at San Francisco, where we saw some truly massive flocks totalling thousands of birds flying in to roost in the evenings.
PLUMBEOUS IBIS (Theristicus caerulescens) – Less numerous than the other ibis species, though we still saw them every day in the Pantanal.
BUFF-NECKED IBIS (Theristicus caudatus) – Pretty common in the Pantanal, with a few sightings around Emas NP as well.
ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja) – Up to 10 birds at San Francisco.
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus) – Lots daily.
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura) – Missed one day at Caraca, but otherwise common.
LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus) – Probably more common than we noted as you just stop looking at vultures after a while. Still, seen most days in the Pantanal and at Emas.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – Just two or three birds at San Francisco.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis) – A distant bird along the river at Emas flew closer and closer, but never really got near enough to offer those real satisfactory looks we all crave.
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus) – A few of these graceful birds were seen daily at Emas.
BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis) – One seen flying over the river at Aguape, then several at San Francisco, including the aptly named "Bella" who performed so nicely during the river cruise.
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – A migratory flock of about 75 birds flying over the river at San Francisco was outdone by the 100+ we found roosting along the river at dusk. Most I've ever seen at one time.
RUFOUS-THIGHED KITE (Harpagus diodon) – Some folks got pretty decent, if brief, views of this kite as it circled over the grassland beside the gallery forest trail at Emas.
PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea) – Quite a few over the first stretch of the tour, with good views on a number of days.
LONG-WINGED HARRIER (Circus buffoni) – A total of three birds in the Emas NP region, with the highlight being the first male Marcelo spotted from the bus on our way to Chapadao do Sul. We managed to pull over in time to see it, then watched as it flew ever closer, culminating in a close fly by in gorgeous light. What a beautiful bird!
BICOLORED HAWK (Accipiter bicolor) – This one was a surprise, especially for the unfortunate Cattle Tyrant this bird targeted, and dug out of its hiding place in a palm tree. We spotted it as it first flew in, so were able to watch the whole hunting process, which was over in the blink of an eye. What focus and determination on the part of the hawk.
CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens) – Good close views of one that flew over the safari truck on our first day at San Francisco.
SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis) – Incredibly common in the Pantanal, where we saw as many as 50+ a day in the rice fields at San Francisco.
GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga) – Small numbers in the Pantanal, mainly at San Francisco.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris) – Scattered sightings throughout the trip. The birds found here with their dark hoods look quite different from the more northerly forms most folks are probably more familiar with.
HARRIS'S HAWK (BAY-WINGED) (Parabuteo unicinctus unicinctus) – A scarce bird in Brazil. We saw only two birds, both at Fazenda San Francisco.
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus) – A few birds at San Francisco, but most exciting were the ones at Emas NP, where we saw at least a dozen circling together over the lightning-ignited grass fire in the north end of the park.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

This male Rusty-backed Antwren was seemingly mesmerized by our pgymy-owl mob tape, sitting for long minutes right out in the open. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

RUFOUS-SIDED CRAKE (Laterallus melanophaius) – These birds were hesitant to come out into the open, but eventually did just that, showing well for all in a reedy ditch in the Pantanal.
GRAY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus) – A handful of birds were seen, mainly along the river at Aguape.
SLATY-BREASTED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides saracura) – Only at Caraca, where several folks saw them in the courtyard in the early hours of morning.
UNIFORM CRAKE (Amaurolimnas concolor) – In gallery forest at Emas NP. [*]
RUSSET-CROWNED CRAKE (Anurolimnas viridis) – Close but no cigar; this one was a bit of a surprise in a marshy roadside spot en route to Aguape. [*]
ASH-THROATED CRAKE (Porzana albicollis) – It took some time to get everyone a satisfactory view, but we ultimately prevailed and had smashing looks at this skulker at San Francisco.
BLACKISH RAIL (Pardirallus nigricans) – These were in a pretty much ideal situation at Caraca, being as they hung around a small pond with limited cover, and where they seemed quite habituated to human activity. We had superb views several times during our stay there.
Heliornithidae (Finfoots)
SUNGREBE (Heliornis fulica) – Kent spotted our first and best during our boat trip along the river at Aguape. The bird retreated to cover along the river bank as we floated down, but stayed in a spot where we got excellent views of it, striped feet and all!!
Aramidae (Limpkin)
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna) – Especially numerous at San Francisco, where 30-50 were seen on each of the safari outings.
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (WHITE-BACKED) (Himantopus mexicanus melanurus) – Nearly all the shorebirds were seen only in the flooded rice fields at San Francisco. There were quite a number of these elegant beauties in the most active field there.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
AMERICAN GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis dominica) – First found in a mainly dry rice paddy, but they didn't spurn the more flooded fields either, and we had quite a few among the many other shorebirds in the most active paddy. [b]
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus) – Fabulous looks at this striking little lapwing at one of the few remaining water holes at Aguape.

This Red-winged Tinamou scuttled around between a stubble field and some gallery forest for long moments before finally finding some tall grass to hide in. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) – Loads throughout the Pantanal, with a few also at Emas.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana) – Good numbers in the Pantanal included a male incubating a nest at San Francisco. [N]
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SOLITARY SANDPIPER (Tringa solitaria) – The only sandpiper we saw at Aguape, though there were far more at San Francisco. [b]
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes) – We tried to string one or two into Greaters, but just weren't able to stretch out that bill enough. [b]
STILT SANDPIPER (Calidris himantopus) – A quartet of these long-legged peeps showed nicely in the flooded rice paddy on our final day at San Francisco. [b]
WHITE-RUMPED SANDPIPER (Calidris fuscicollis) – Fair numbers in the shorebird cell. [b]
BUFF-BREASTED SANDPIPER (Calidris subruficollis) – A nice surprise was finding about 5 of these lovely shorebirds among a number of golden-plovers in a mainly dry rice paddy one morning, Next day we saw another 4 in the more flooded rice paddy among all the other shorebirds. This was a new species for our driver/guide Armando, so evidently quite a scarce species here. [b]
PECTORAL SANDPIPER (Calidris melanotos) – A dozen or so were among the many other shorebirds. [b]
GIANT SNIPE (Gallinago undulata) – It took a couple of tries but we eventually wound up with a great flyby look at one of these huge snipes in a lovely marsh near Emas NP.
WILSON'S PHALAROPE (Phalaropus tricolor) – At least 4 of these were in among the other shorebirds in the flooded rice paddy at San Francisco. [b]
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex) – Three birds only with the shorebirds at San Francisco.
BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger) – Our only ones were 5 birds roosting on the ground next to a marsh on our way out from Fazenda Aguape.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) – In the cites and towns only. [I]

Heading out along the placid Aquiduana River. Photo by participant Charlotte Byers.

PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) – Pretty common in the Pantanal, especially in the riparian regions where they seemed to mostly replace the next species.
PICAZURO PIGEON (Patagioenas picazuro) – The common large pigeon, with plenty seen daily.
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea) – Just a couple of sightings of flybys and several heard at Caraca.
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti) – Numerous in the Pantanal.
SCALED DOVE (Columbina squammata) – Also quite numerous in the Pantanal, with one bird also seen at Cipo.
PICUI GROUND-DOVE (Columbina picui) – Quite a few in the Pantanal.
LONG-TAILED GROUND-DOVE (Uropelia campestris) – Generally a scarce and hard to find bird on this tour, though our experience didn't really support that, as we found them quite easily and saw them several times well at Aguape.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi) – Small numbers daily in the Pantanal.
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata) – Quite numerous, especially around Emas NP where we saw hundreds daily.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
LITTLE CUCKOO (Coccycua minuta) – Marcelo finally managed to coax one of these birds out for us along the boardwalk trail at San Francisco.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana) – Seen in small numbers most days in the Pantanal, as well as in gallery forest at Emas NP.
GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira) – Our first were a group of about 8 birds huddled up tightly together at the Campo Grande airport, and we went on to see these daily until we flew to Belo Horizonte.
STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia) – After hearing this bird a couple of times, including one calling in the middle of the night, we finally had nice looks at one at San Francisco.
GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major) – Quite common along the rivers in the Pantanal.
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani) – Fairly numerous throughout the first 9 days of the trip, but after that only a few were seen at Cipo.
Tytonidae (Barn-Owls)
BARN OWL (Tyto alba) – On our first night drive at San Francisco, we saw 5 of these ghosts, including 4 in one spot. Another was seen on our night drive at Emas.
Strigidae (Owls)
SPECTACLED OWL (Pulsatrix perspicillata) – Some fine work by our local guide at Aguape resulted in beautiful views of a pair along the river one evening.

A White-tailed Goldenthroat on a nest along one of the canals at San Francisco allowed us to get great close looks. Photo by participant Peter Bono.

GREAT HORNED OWL (Bubo virginianus) – A couple of birds on our second night drive at San Francisco. These birds seemed considerably paler than ours in North America, and there is occasionally some noise about splitting them.
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum) – Pretty common and useful in the Pantanal, as a calling pygmy-owl invariably attracts an entourage of ticked off Passerines.
BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia) – A fair few in the Pantanal were topped by the numbers in Emas, where we saw dozens daily.
STRIPED OWL (Pseudoscops clamator) – A concerted search on our second night drive at San Francisco paid off when we ultimately had incredibly close views of a couple of these striking owls.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
NACUNDA NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles nacunda) – One of these large nighthawks flew over us at dusk our first night at Aguape, and another made a couple of passes overhead just after we disembarked from our boat trip at San Francisco.
LESSER NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles acutipennis) – A lone bird flew past as we waited for it to get dark enough for Giant Snipe near Emas.
SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (NATTERERI) (Lurocalis semitorquatus nattereri) – Our final morning owling attempt at Caraca came up empty of owls, but we did have some fine flyovers from these birds as a consulation prize.
BAND-WINGED NIGHTJAR (Systellura longirostris) – Good spotlight views of a singing bird perched on a rock near the roadside at Cipo.
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis) – Common in the Pantanal, where we saw several most nights.
WHITE-WINGED NIGHTJAR (Eleothreptus candicans) – Incredible close views of a male we walked up on during our night drive at Emas NP. We also saw 2 females of this range restricted species, and the eyeshine of about a dozen other nightjars, many (if not all) of which were this species.
OCELLATED POORWILL (Nyctiphrynus ocellatus) – Heard a couple of times at Caraca. [*]
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis) – One bird at San Francisco on our first night there.
COMMON POTOO (Nyctibius griseus) – Singles were seen, and their weird calls heard, on several nights in the Pantanal.
Apodidae (Swifts)

A couple of Striped Owls were a highlight of our second night drive at San Francisco. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

SOOTY SWIFT (Cypseloides fumigatus) – A lone bird was among other swifts over the camp at Emas NP, and a couple of others were sighted during a stop on the return to Campo Grande.
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris) – Quite a few in the Cipo area, with a few also at Caraca.
BISCUTATE SWIFT (Streptoprocne biscutata) – Hundreds of these birds were screaming by overhead and all around one morning at Caraca, with smaller numbers the next day. It was a truly incredible experience to hear the wind whizzing through their wings as they went by so close that we could often see the critical field marks without our bins!
SICK'S SWIFT (Chaetura meridionalis) – A few in the Pantanal, then seen daily at Emas.
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata) – A handful of these slender swifts were regulars over the camp at Emas.
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
BLACK JACOBIN (Florisuga fusca) – A lone male perched overhead as we got ready to leave our hotel at Cipo on our last morning there.
BUFF-BELLIED HERMIT (Phaethornis subochraceus) – This dull hermit initially had us stumped, but we eventually worked out that it was a rather drab individual of this species. Fortunately we had plenty of time to study it as it sat still for quite a while, unusually for a hermit.
PLANALTO HERMIT (Phaethornis pretrei) – A couple of nice views of this more colorful hermit at some flowers around the pond at Caraca. Also one in the hummingbird tree our last day at Ouro Preto.
HYACINTH VISORBEARER (Augastes scutatus) – This stunning hummer showed beautifully several times at Cerro Cipo.
WHITE-VENTED VIOLETEAR (Colibri serrirostris) – Fairly numerous at Emas, with several seen well there. There were also a couple in the hummingbird tree at Ouro Preto.
HORNED SUNGEM (Heliactin bilophus) – Nice views of a female, then all too brief looks at a gorgeous male, along a track below Cerro Cipo.
WHITE-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus guainumbi) – Best seen at San Francisco, where we found two active nests along the canals, and enjoyed great looks at them from the safari truck. Also seen at Pousada Monjolos. [N]
BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis) – A few birds at San Francisco were stirred up by our owl imitations, and a couple were also at Monjolos.
BRAZILIAN RUBY (Clytolaema rubricauda) – A quick view of one bird for about half the group our first day at Caraca.
STRIPE-BREASTED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster squamosus) – Only a couple of us got to see this one as it popped in briefly just before we left Monjolos for Caraca.
AMETHYST WOODSTAR (Calliphlox amethystina) – A couple of these dainty hummers were seen around the parking area of Pousada Monjolos.
GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon lucidus) – A female was at the Campo Grande airport the first morning but they were far more regular, and seen daily around Cipo and Caraca. Also in the hummingbird tree at Ouro Preto.
SWALLOW-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Eupetomena macroura) – Several nice views of this large hummer at several sites including a couple of birds in the Ouro Preto hummingbird tree.
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata) – A female was seen in the gallery forest at Emas, then several birds were around the parking lot at Monjolos.
VIOLET-CAPPED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania glaucopis) – A few of these beauties showed well at Caraca.
WHITE-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Leucochloris albicollis) – A lone bird few on flowers around the Caraca courtyard on a couple of mornings. One was also seen at Ouro Preto alongside all the other hummers.
GLITTERING-THROATED EMERALD (Amazilia fimbriata) – Not uncommon in the Cipo area.
SAPPHIRE-SPANGLED EMERALD (Amazilia lactea) – These seemed to replace the similar Glittering-throated Emerald at Caraca, and we saw them regularly there. Also seen at the Ouro Preto hummer tree.
GILDED HUMMINGBIRD (Hylocharis chrysura) – The commonly seen hummingbird species in the Pantanal, particularly at Aguape.
Trogonidae (Trogons)
BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui) – The only trogon seen in the Pantanal, where we had them daily, mostly in the gallery forest.
SURUCUA TROGON (Trogon surrucura) – A couple of nice sightings at Caraca, where it is the yellow-bellied form that occurs.
Momotidae (Motmots)

The Great Black Hawk is a real generalist when it comes to prey items -- and fish is certainly on the menu. Photo by participant Bill Byers.

AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota) – A single bird each day along the river at Aguape.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata) – Small numbers in the Pantanal.
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona) – Quite common at San Francisco.
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana) – Likewise fairly common at San Francisco.
GREEN-AND-RUFOUS KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle inda) – These ones weren't easy, with the high water in the Rio Aquiduana making it tough to get in to where we could see them, but we finally maneuvered the boats into position to get pretty nice views.
AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle aenea) – These were also tricky to see, though we managed to find a pair hiding in a tree fall on the riverside during our boat trip at San Francisco.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
WHITE-EARED PUFFBIRD (Nystalus chacuru) – A lone bird at the marsh near Emas NP on our last afternoon there.
SPOT-BACKED PUFFBIRD (CHACO) (Nystalus maculatus striatipectus) – Seen nicely one both days at Aguape. Note that the one here is the Chaco form, with the Caatinga form possibly constituting a separate species.
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda) – Fairly common along the rivers in the Pantanal.
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis) – A lone bird was seen at the Aguape campground along the river our first afternoon there.
TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco) – Commonly seen in the Pantanal and at Emas. Our first one at the marsh en route to Aguape was notable in that it had a kiskadee hanging off its tail, for a short time at least!
CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (YELLOW-RIDGED) (Ramphastos vitellinus culminatus) – One in the forest along the Giant Snipe marsh at Emas was our only one for the trip.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
WHITE-BARRED PICULET (Picumnus cirratus cirratus) – Nice views of this one a few times at Caraca.
WHITE-WEDGED PICULET (Picumnus albosquamatus albosquamatus) – We saw two forms of this species; this one was seen our first day at Aguape.

The Grayish Baywing is a "new" species, split from the Bay-winged Cowbird in the most recent taxonomic updates. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

WHITE-WEDGED PICULET (Picumnus albosquamatus guttifer) – And this form was seen a couple of times at Emas.
WHITE WOODPECKER (Melanerpes candidus) – Excellent looks at 4 or 5 of these social woodpeckers our first day at Aguape.
WHITE-FRONTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cactorum) – I'm used to seeing this one in dry cactus dominated scrub in Bolivia, so they looked out of place in the gallery forest at Aguape, but there they were!
CHECKERED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis mixtus) – A responsive female was a nice find in the dry scrub on the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo.
LITTLE WOODPECKER (Veniliornis passerinus) – Seen regularly in the Pantanal.
YELLOW-EARED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis maculifrons) – One showed up briefly in a tree beside the courtyard at Caraca our first morning, then flew off never to be seen again.
GREEN-BARRED WOODPECKER (Colaptes melanochloros) – These gorgeous woodpeckers were seen mainly in the Pantanal, where we had especially nice looks at a pair nesting in one of the wooden support posts of one of the cabins. [N]
CAMPO FLICKER (Colaptes campestris) – Quite common around Aguape, but even more numerous at Emas, where we saw up to 20 some days.
PALE-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Celeus lugubris) – A flyover along the river at Aguape, then good looks at a pair of these striking woodpeckers on our boat trip at San Francisco.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus) – A lone bird was seen at Aguape.
ROBUST WOODPECKER (Campephilus robustus) – A pair of these large scarce woodpeckers showed wonderfully from the courtyard at Caraca.
CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos) – A lone bird at Aguape, not long after our lone Lineated Woodpecker.
Cariamidae (Seriemas)
RED-LEGGED SERIEMA (Cariama cristata) – Pretty common at both Aguape and Emas NP, and we saw them daily at these two sites, starting with 5 birds around Aguape our first day. We also saw a bird sitting atop a treetop nest at Emas one afternoon. [N]
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur semitorquatus) – Close to a heard only, but a few folks glimpsed a bird flying by at a stop en route from Cipo to Caraca.
SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus) – Big numbers daily throughout the tour. Exceptionally numerous at San Francisco, with one group of 50-75 birds seen on one flooded field alone.

The dry savanna around Emas was studded with termite mounds -- and home to a smoky fire. Photo by participant Charlotte Byers.

YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima) – A couple of birds one day at Emas were our first, then we saw them daily at Cipo and Caraca.
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans) – Heard several times, and finally seen in the gallery forest at Emas.
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius) – Small numbers were seen at pretty much all the sites visited.
APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis) – Only at Emas, where we saw them daily. Best were a pair perched side by side at the edge of some gallery forest where we had our first Helmeted Manakins.
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis) – One bird at dusk after our river trip at San Francisco.
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus) – Fair numbers in the Pantanal, particularly at San Francisco where there were several huge communal nests. [N]
YELLOW-CHEVRONED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chiriri) – Quite common throughout the Pantanal, with just a couple of sightings at Emas.
SCALY-HEADED PARROT (Pionus maximiliani) – Just a few birds each day in the Pantanal, and a couple of small flocks at Caraca.
YELLOW-FACED PARROT (Alipiopsitta xanthops) – An Emas specialty, and we saw them each day there, beginning with superb views of 20+ birds perched along the roadside as we approached the park the first morning.
TURQUOISE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona aestiva) – The only Amazona we encountered, and we saw them most days, including some cheeky habituated ones perching on the chairs around the pool at San Francisco.
BLAZE-WINGED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura devillei) – A restricted range species occurring only in Mato Grosso do Sul, and a limited area of Paraguay and Bolivia, this species is classified as near-threatened due to habitat fragmentation. We found a pair near the campground at Aguape our first afternoon and had fabulous views of these beautiful birds as they initially perched quite low and in the open. Our only other views were a flyby pair along the river a couple of days later.
HYACINTH MACAW (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus) – Though not numerous, we saw these spectacular birds, the largest of the macaws, daily at Aguape, where a pair was nesting in a hollowed out palm right in the courtyard of the lodge! San Francisco also had a nesting pair, in a nest box behind the cabins. [N]
PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEET (Eupsittula aurea) – This lovely little parakeet was pretty numerous throughout the trip, except at Caraca.
NANDAY PARAKEET (Aratinga nenday) – A common species in the Pantanal, with especially good close views at the ones at the feeders at Aguape.

A pair of Hyacinth Macaws nesting in a palm tree right outside the dining room at Fazenda Aguape gave us great views and photographs. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

YELLOW-COLLARED MACAW (Primolius auricollis) – We saw these gorgeous small macaws a handful of times, mainly in flight, but Marcelo lured our first pair at Aguape right in close for some awesome views.
BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna) – Numerous in the Pantanal and at Emas NP.
RED-SHOULDERED MACAW (Diopsittaca nobilis) – Another nice little macaw. A few of these were around Aguape, where we usually saw them sitting up early in the mornings. We also had a few sightings at Emas NP.
WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Psittacara leucophthalmus) – Scattered records throughout the tour, with good looks at a bunch at the marsh near Dois Irmaos de Buriti.
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
TUFTED ANTSHRIKE (Mackenziaena severa) – Sadly we couldn't get this one to move downslope to where we could see it at Caraca. [*]
GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major) – A few sightings of this widespread species in the Pantanal, mainly at San Francisco.
BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus) – Another widespread species; we saw this one daily in the Pantanal.
RUFOUS-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus torquatus) – We finally managed to track down a male of this attractive species in the dry scrub on the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo.
PLANALTO SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus pelzelni) – A lone male that joined the pygmy-owl mobbing frenzy at Aguape showed well, and was our only one of the trip.
VARIABLE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus caerulescens) – Just a couple of sightings of this one at Cerro Cipo (in the mob near the bridge) and at Caraca.
BLACK-CAPPED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus atricapillus) – These birds gave some good views as they moved with a canopy flock along the trail below the sanctuary.
LARGE-BILLED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus longirostris) – Several good looks were had of this antwren in the gallery forests at Emas NP.
SERRA ANTWREN (Formicivora serrana) – We managed to track down a male of this little beauty on our second full day at Caraca after a vocal pair had given us the slip the previous day.
RUSTY-BACKED ANTWREN (Formicivora rufa) – Several sightings of these in the Pantanal, including a male that came in close and sat out in the open for a long while during a pygmy-owl mobbing frenzy.

We saw Red-legged Seriemas daily around Aguape and Emas NPs, often quite close. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

OCHRE-RUMPED ANTBIRD (Drymophila ochropyga) – We had a pair of these in dense bamboo near where we turned around on the trail below the lodge at Caraca.
DUSKY-TAILED ANTBIRD (Drymophila malura) – Good views of an inquisitive pair along the same trail as the preceding species.
MATO GROSSO ANTBIRD (Cercomacra melanaria) – Regularly heard and seen in the Pantanal. One aggressive pair at San Francisco kept chasing away a Fawn-breasted Wren we were trying to see.
WHITE-SHOULDERED FIRE-EYE (Pyriglena leucoptera) – Good views of a responsive pair near the soccer field at Caraca.
WHITE-BIBBED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza loricata) – This gorgeous antbird was one of my favorite birds of the trip. We saw a male beautifully along the "Tanque Trail" at Caraca.
Melanopareiidae (Crescentchests)
COLLARED CRESCENTCHEST (Melanopareia torquata) – I don't recall ever seeing a crescentchest so easily as at Emas NP, where they were quite numerous and not at all difficult to get good views of.
Conopophagidae (Gnateaters)
RUFOUS GNATEATER (Conopophaga lineata) – One unexpectedly popped up right above the trail in full view as we were heading down towards the soccer field at Caraca.
Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos)
SPOTTED BAMBOOWREN (Psilorhamphus guttatus) – A disembodied voice in dense bamboo below the lodge at Caraca was the sum of our experience with this skulker. [*]
WHITE-BREASTED TAPACULO (Eleoscytalopus indigoticus) – Some folks had nice views of this unusually distinctive tapaculo at Caraca.
ROCK TAPACULO (Scytalopus petrophilus) – One eventually came right in and showed pretty well at Caraca. though it did require a certain amount of flexibility to crouch down and peer at it under that large rock.
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
CAMPO MINER (Geositta poeciloptera) – This species shows a preference for recently burned areas of grassland, and we found several in the still smoldering aftermath of the big grass fire at Emas NP. It was especially fun to watch their enthusiastic displays in response to playback.
OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus) – One seen briefly at Aguape, another at Caraca. This species is in some need of taxonomic revision and will likely be split into half a dozen or more species one day, so it's good to keep track of where you've seen them.
PLANALTO WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes platyrostris) – One bird in gallery forest at Emas NP.
GREAT RUFOUS WOODCREEPER (Xiphocolaptes major) – Super views of a pair of these large woodcreepers at the Aguape campground.
RED-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris) – We had several sightings of the impressive bird in the Pantanal.
NARROW-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris) – Daily in the Pantanal, though just one or two each day.
STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans) – One bird joined the pygmy-owl mob at the "Abattoir Trail" on our way back from Emas NP, another was seen at Caraca.
WING-BANDED HORNERO (Furnarius figulus) – Great response from one at Marcelo's stakeout, behind the restaurant with all the odd statues on the way to Caraca.
PALE-LEGGED HORNERO (Furnarius leucopus) – A few sightings in gallery forest in the Pantanal, including a great view of one on the railing of the boardwalk at the start of the trail at San Francisco.
RUFOUS HORNERO (Furnarius rufus) – One of a handful of birds seen daily throughout the tour. A fair number of active nests were noted, including one above the ranger's house at Emas NP. [N]
SHARP-TAILED STREAMCREEPER (Lochmias nematura) – Great views of one along a small stream on the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo. Some folks also saw a pair along the stream below the lodge at Caraca.
BUFF-BROWED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla rufosuperciliata) – Nice views of a lone bird with a mixed flock at Caraca.
RUSSET-MANTLED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla dimidiata) – Laure gets credit for spotting this rare bird as it snuck in towards the group in gallery forest at Emas NP. Unfortunately, only she and Barbara got views of it before it vanished for good.
CHESTNUT-CAPPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Clibanornis rectirostris) – Excellent looks at this range restricted species along the river at Aguape, where we encountered at least two different pairs. The field guide most of us were using calls this Henna-capped Foliage-gleaner.
RUFOUS-FRONTED THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus rufifrons) – We had distant views of a pair behind the Pescador Restaurant en route to Aguape, then better looks at another pair on the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo.

Exploring the historic town of Ouro Preto made for a nice finale to the tour. Photo by participant Peter Bono.

GREATER THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus ruber) – Not uncommon at San Francisco, where we had a few each day.
FIREWOOD-GATHERER (Anumbius annumbi) – Nice views of a pair of these cool Furnariids on the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo, though we never managed to find one of their truly impressive nests.
CIPO CANASTERO (Asthenes luizae) – A very local species, and very disjunct from all the other many canasteros, which are primarily in the Andes. We had one quite easily, singing pretty much right next to the road on our arrival at Cerro Cipo, and we had excellent looks at it within minutes, though it went quiet early and we were unable to relocate it later in the morning.
RUSTY-BACKED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca vulpina) – A couple of pairs along the river at Aguape, where we had great looks at one at a nest just above the water. We also saw one in gallery forest at Emas NP. [N]
PALLID SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca pallida) – One of three spinetail species recorded in short order on the track to the soccer field at Caraca.
RUFOUS CACHOLOTE (Pseudoseisura unirufa) – Not uncommon in the Pantanal, where we saw them daily at San Francisco after our first sighting along the river at Aguape.
CHOTOY SPINETAIL (Schoeniophylax phryganophilus) – Our only ones were a nice close pair on our first afternoon at Aguape.
YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus) – Seen regularly in the Pantanal, mainly at San Francisco, and we even managed to see the tiny yellow chin patch on at least a couple of occasions.
RUFOUS-CAPPED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis ruficapilla) – This attractive spinetail was seen a few times at Caraca.
GRAY-BELLIED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis cinerascens) – Just one bird in some dense trailside vegetation below the lodge at Caraca.
SOOTY-FRONTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis frontalis) – We also saw just one of these, at the Collared Forest-Falcon site below Cerro Cipo.
PALE-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albescens) – Quite common, mainly by voice, at Emas NP as well as at Cerro Cipo.
SPIX'S SPINETAIL (Synallaxis spixi) – A cooperative pair showed well behind the goal at the Caraca soccer field.
CINEREOUS-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis hypospodia) – A half-hearted response from one at the Dois Irmaos marsh on our way back to Campo Grande. [*]
WHITE-LORED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albilora) – Several good views of this one in the Pantanal, especially the first pair that joined the pygmy-owl mob at Aguape.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum) – Pretty common throughout, and we only failed to record it on a handful of days.

A confiding pair of Masked Water-Tyrants around a pond at Caraca were fun. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

SUIRIRI FLYCATCHER (Suiriri suiriri affinis) – An excited pair on our first afternoon at Aguape were to be the only ones we recorded all trip.
MOUSE-COLORED TYRANNULET (Phaeomyias murina) – A few sightings of this rather plain tyrannulet at Aguape and on our way back from Emas NP.
GRAY-BACKED TACHURI (Polystictus superciliaris) – A fairly localized central Brazilian endemic. We had superb close views of a couple of pairs at Cerro Cipo.
FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii) – One sighting of a lone bird in gallery forest at Emas NP.
GRAY ELAENIA (Myiopagis caniceps) – A single bird joined the pygmy-owl mob at the "Abattoir Trail" on our way back from Emas NP.
GREENISH ELAENIA (Myiopagis viridicata) – One bird at Aguape, another with a party of birds along the little side road near Miranda, both joining in on the pygmy-owl mobbing.
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster) – The most commonly recorded elaenia at most sites, though we failed to see or hear any at San Francisco and Caraca.
LARGE ELAENIA (Elaenia spectabilis) – A couple of good sightings were had at the two Pantanal sites.
OLIVACEOUS ELAENIA (Elaenia mesoleuca) – A few records in the Cerro Cipo region.
PLAIN-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia cristata) – This one lacks the white feathers under the crest that most elaenias show, and it has quite a pointy-headed look in comparison with some others. We had good views at a scattering of locations.
LESSER ELAENIA (Elaenia chiriquensis) – A few records at several sites, including a bird on a nest along the roadside at Emas NP. [N]
HIGHLAND ELAENIA (Elaenia obscura) – Just one bird was seen at the Giant Snipe marsh near Emas NP.
SOOTY TYRANNULET (Serpophaga nigricans) – David spotted a pair of these dusky tyrannulets along the dam at Caraca.
GRAY-HOODED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes rufiventris) – Nice views of one in the rocky section of the trail at Caraca, near to where we saw the Rock Tapaculo.
MOTTLE-CHEEKED TYRANNULET (Phylloscartes ventralis) – Fairly common in the subcanopy and among mixed flocks at Caraca.
PLANALTO TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias fasciatus) – The default small tyrannulet at Caraca, where we heard and saw them regularly.
PLAIN TYRANNULET (Inezia inornata) – We finally found a couple of these birds along the side road near Miranda, where they showed themselves readily.
SHARP-TAILED TYRANT (Culicivora caudacuta) – A pair of these charming little grassland tyrannulets gave a good close showing at Emas NP.

Some great spotting by Marcelo gave us out-of-the-bus views of a flyby male Long-winged Harrier at Emas NP; what a gorgeous bird! Photo by participant Bill Byers.

EARED PYGMY-TYRANT (Myiornis auricularis) – Heard only at Caraca. [*]
HANGNEST TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus nidipendulus) – Cool name for a rather drab bird. We saw these ones a few times at Caraca, primarily in scrub near the soccer field.
PEARLY-VENTED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer) – Easily overlooked but not uncommon in the Pantanal, where we had several good sightings.
OCHRE-FACED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus plumbeiceps) – This attractive little bird was finally seen very well in dense bamboo along the trail below the lodge at Caraca.
RUSTY-FRONTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus latirostris) – Sneaky, but ultimately seen quite well as they joined some pygmy-owl mobbing at San Francisco and also along the side road near Miranda.
GRAY-HEADED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum poliocephalum) – Seen nicely a few times at Caraca.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum) – Pretty common in the Pantanal.
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens) – A couple of birds at Aguape, as well as the side road near Miranda, and one at Caraca. Birds in this genus are due for some revision and possible splitting, so take note of where you've seen them if you want some future armchair ticks.
CLIFF FLYCATCHER (Hirundinea ferruginea bellicosa) – Numerous at Caraca, where the sanctuary's rock walls made suitable nesting "cliffs" for this species. [N]
WHISKERED FLYCATCHER (YELLOW-RUMPED) (Myiobius barbatus mastacalis) – David and I saw one when we went back to retrieve our scopes along the trail below the sanctuary at Caraca.
BRAN-COLORED FLYCATCHER (Myiophobus fasciatus) – One on the lower slopes of Cipo was less than fully cooperative, but another pair at Caraca posed out in the open for all.
TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus cinereus) – A pair at Caraca, at the same time and place as the Bran-colored Flycatchers.
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus) – I didn't expect this species to be so scarce, but we saw just a single male on our first afternoon at San Francisco.
CRESTED BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus lophotes) – We never had them really close, but we still got pretty reasonable views of a couple of pairs at Cipo.
VELVETY BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus nigerrimus) – Excellent looks at this one at Caraca, where a pair were feeding a fledgling that had just left the nest (under the stairs) in an interior courtyard which we had to pass on our way to every meal. [N]
GRAY MONJITA (Xolmis cinereus) – One for the early arriving folks at the Campo Grande airport, then a few daily at Emas NP and one or two at Cipo.
WHITE-RUMPED MONJITA (Xolmis velatus) – Quite common in the Pantanal, with many nice views, including one that was nesting in a termite mound next to the driveway at Aguape. [N]
STREAMER-TAILED TYRANT (Gubernetes yetapa) – This spectacular tyrant showed beautifully several times, primarily at Emas NP, where we were treated to a trio doing an enthusiastic, wings-raised display at close range at the Giant Snipe marsh.
SHEAR-TAILED GRAY TYRANT (Muscipipra vetula) – Marcelo spotted one from the bus as we drove up to the Caraca sanctuary late in the afternoon. When we drove back down a couple of days later, the bird, along with its mate, was using the same perch, and offered up some great scope views.
BLACK-BACKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola albiventer) – Numerous along the canals at San Francisco.
MASKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola nengeta) – A confiding pair around the pond at Caraca were delightful.
WHITE-HEADED MARSH TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala) – A couple of birds along the roadside as we transfered between lodges in the Pantanal and a couple more at a large marsh on the outskirts of Emas NP.
COCK-TAILED TYRANT (Alectrurus tricolor) – This unique species was high on everyone's priority list, and they didn't disappoint, as we saw quite a few at Emas, including several perky males. The only downside was that they were a bit too flighty for anyone to get a photo.

We had outstanding views of this male White-winged Nightjar during one of our night drives at Emas NP. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus) – A couple of birds along the road up to the Caraca sanctuary.
CATTLE TYRANT (Machetornis rixosa) – Common in the Pantanal. Marcelo coaxed one into showing its usually concealed red crest at Aguape. Shortly afterward, a Bicolored Hawk coaxed another one into showing its crest as well, albeit in a bit more violent a fashion.
SIBILANT SIRYSTES (Sirystes sibilator) – Those of us lagging behind as we returned to the lodge at Caraca one morning saw one perched low over the trail. Everyone else caught up with a pair along the entrance road that same afternoon. Note that what was once a single species of sirystes has now been split 4 ways, so if you've only seen sirystes before west of the Andes, or in Amazonia, or NE Brazil, this might have been a new one for you.
RUFOUS CASIORNIS (Casiornis rufus) – A few sightings of this attractive flycatcher in the Pantanal and in gallery forest at Emas NP.
SWAINSON'S FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus swainsoni) – Very similar to the next species, and best separated by voice, which is how Marcelo identified our only pair in scrub on the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo.
SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox) – The most commonly encountered Myiarchus on the trip, and we saw or heard them nearly every day.
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus) – A few birds were seen, primarily in drier habitats. Best told by the extensive rufous in the tail of this species.
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor) – Just a few birds during the Pantanal river trips.
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus) – One of the few birds recorded every day of the trip.
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua) – Not uncommon in the Pantanal (mainly Aguape) and at Caraca, but rarely, if ever, as numerous as the kiskadee.
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis) – Small numbers in the Pantanal, as well as a pair alongside a pair of similar Social Flycatchers at the pond at Caraca.
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis) – Only around Caraca, where they were fairly common.
STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus) – Seen in small numbers at Aguape, with a sighting also of a single bird at Caraca.
PIRATIC FLYCATCHER (Legatus leucophaius) – Seen or heard most days in the Pantanal.
VARIEGATED FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus varius) – A pair was seen during a roadside stop on our return to Campo Grande from Emas NP, and a single bird was noted at Caraca.

We had multiple great views of the fancy Plush-crested Jay. Photo by participant Bill Byers.

CROWNED SLATY FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus) – Our only one of the trip was a confiding bird we found at the Campo Grande airport our first day.
WHITE-THROATED KINGBIRD (Tyrannus albogularis) – Greatly outnumbered by the next species, but we saw a few birds. We had one at the marsh near Dois Irmaos de Buriti, then a couple on the edge of gallery forest at Emas NP, and finally a lone bird at the Wing-banded Hornero stop en route to Caraca.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus) – Almost very day, though we did miss this species on the transfer day between Cipo and Caraca (though we saw the White-throated Kingbird that day).
FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus savana) – Seen daily, sometimes in good numbers, everywhere but at Caraca.
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
SWALLOW-TAILED COTINGA (Phibalura flavirostris) – A stunning bird and one a lot of people were hoping to see. We lucked out by finding an active nest with two chicks along the trail below the lodge at Caraca. The parents switched places a couple of times, so we had great views of both, along with some excellent photographic opportunities. [N]
Pipridae (Manakins)
PALE-BELLIED TYRANT-MANAKIN (Neopelma pallescens) – Marcelo had found this species along the drive back to Campo Grande from Emas NP on last year's tour, so we made a stop at the same site this year (the "Abbattoir Trail") and once again had a responsive pair that showed well.
SERRA DO MAR TYRANT-MANAKIN (Neopelma chrysolophum) – A similarly dull species to the preceding one. We had pretty good views of a single bird at Caraca.
HELMETED MANAKIN (Antilophia galeata) – I don't recall ever seeing a fully adult male, but we did have several younger males that, though dark olive rather than black overall, were sporting the fancy red crest of an adult. Seen several times in gallery forest at Emas NP, and on our hotel grounds near Cerro Cipo.
SWALLOW-TAILED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia caudata) – We did see a beautiful adult male of this stunning species, along the trail near the soccer field at Caraca.
PIN-TAILED MANAKIN (Ilicura militaris) – Our only one at Caraca was a juvenile male, but the yellow eye and pointed tail left no doubt to its identity.
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)

We only saw a single Tropical Parula, but it a very cooperative one! Photo by participant Bill Byers.

BLACK-TAILED TITYRA (Tityra cayana) – Just a couple of sightings around Aguape.
BLACK-CROWNED TITYRA (Tityra inquisitor) – Likewise seen a couple of times at Aguape.
CHESTNUT-CROWNED BECARD (Pachyramphus castaneus) – A pair of birds near the lodge at Caraca were the only ones for the tour.
WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus) – A few sightings of single birds in the Pantanal. Males of the subspecies found here are very blackish.
CRESTED BECARD (Pachyramphus validus) – A lone male attending a large nest near the lodge at Aguape was the only one of the trip. [N]
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceus) – A few birds along the side road near Miranda and in gallery forest in and around Emas NP. Note that these birds are resident here, and not migrants from North America.
GRAY-EYED GREENLET (Hylophilus amaurocephalus) – We had some good looks at this one at Caraca. Other than a small disjunct population in eastern Bolivia, this species is endemic to Brazil.
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) – Heard fairly often, and we had a few good sightings in the Pantanal.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
PURPLISH JAY (Cyanocorax cyanomelas) – A common species in the Pantanal, where we saw them daily.
CURL-CRESTED JAY (Cyanocorax cristatellus) – These fancy plumed jays were regularly seen at Emas NP, though they never sat still in the open long enough to please the photographers among us.
PLUSH-CRESTED JAY (Cyanocorax chrysops) – Another fancy jay, this one was also common and seen daily in the Pantanal.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca) – Plenty at Caraca, where they mostly hung around the sanctuary.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis) – Regularly seen throughout the tour.
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea) – Small numbers in the Pantanal, including one that roosted nightly in the rafters of the dining area.
BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera) – Pretty numerous in the Pantanal, with quite a few flocks of migrants moving around.
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer) – Seen in small numbers along the rivers in the Pantanal.

Gilt-edged Tanager was one of the fancier tanagers we saw during the tour. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

WHITE-RUMPED SWALLOW (Tachycineta leucorrhoa) – Quite a few in Emas NP were the only ones besides a single bird at the Campo Grande airport.
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica) – Probably just starting to show up in the region from the northern breeding grounds. Seen at San Francisco and Emas NP. [b]
CLIFF SWALLOW (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota) – After a couple of birds seen at San Francisco, we saw huge numbers at Emas NP, with an amazing flock of 2000-3000 birds feeding overhead at the Giant Snipe marsh providing the most memorable sighting. [b]
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon) – Mainly around Cipo and Caraca, though we did also see one at Aguape.
SEDGE WREN (Cistothorus platensis) – An unresponsive singing bird at Emas NP. [*]
THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus unicolor) – Quite a few in the Pantanal. This race, unicolor, lacks the "thrushlike" spotting of the birds of western Amazonia.
BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis) – A few folks had quick views of a lone bird at the Dois Irrmaos do Buriti marsh.
FAWN-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus guarayanus) – These ones were seemingly unpopular with the other birds- our first pair at Aguape were constantly being chased off by a Yellow-billed Cardinal, the second pair at San Francisco were repeatedly attacked by a Mato Grosso Antbird. Wonder what that was all about?
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
MASKED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila dumicola) – The memorable thing with these guys was that we saw none our first day at San Francisco, then we ran into them everywhere the next day. Where did they all come from?
Donacobiidae (Donacobius)
BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla) – Some great views of these unique birds several times at San Francisco.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
PALE-BREASTED THRUSH (Turdus leucomelas) – The most regularly encountered thrush on the trip, with some on most days, including that "caged" one in the courtyard at Aguape;-)
RUFOUS-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus rufiventris) – Also quite common and widespread, though we saw fewer than the preceding species. This is the national bird of Brazil.

Maned Wolves are normally shy and wary creatures, so seeing one out in the open (which we FINALLY did after a couple of no-show nights) was a real treat. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus amaurochalinus) – A couple of birds at Aguape, then seen daily at Caraca. This species regularly gives a characteristic little tail quiver that helps nail its identity even with a poor view of it.
SLATY THRUSH (EASTERN) (Turdus nigriceps subalaris) – A vocal bird near the soccer field at Caraca was glimpsed by a few.
WHITE-NECKED THRUSH (Turdus albicollis) – Heard only at Caraca. [*]
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
CHALK-BROWED MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus saturninus) – Quite common and seen daily everywhere but at Caraca.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
YELLOWISH PIPIT (Anthus lutescens) – Nice close looks at a pair that were chasing each other around at Aguape.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
MASKED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis aequinoctialis) – One was noted flying across the Dois Irmaos de Buriti marsh on our first day, but little did we know at the time there wasn't going to be another on the tour.
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi) – Our lone one was a cooperative bird singing overhead along the river at Emas NP.
GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (WHITE-BELLIED) (Basileuterus culicivorus hypoleucus) – These whitish-bellied birds were seen regularly in gallery forest in the Cipo area and at Caraca.
WHITE-STRIPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis leucophrys) – A pair in the gallery forest at Emas NP joined in the pygmy-owl mobbing and gave us good views in the process.
FLAVESCENT WARBLER (Myiothlypis flaveola) – Though we heard them at Pousada Monjolos, they showed no interest in playback and remained out of sight. [*]
WHITE-BROWED WARBLER (Myiothlypis leucoblephara) – The few of us who got up early to do some owling at Caraca on our final morning were rewarded with some close views of a couple of these in the first few minutes of daylight.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CRESTED CARDINAL (Paroaria coronata) – Small numbers in the Pantanal, but nowhere near as numerous as the next species.
YELLOW-BILLED CARDINAL (Paroaria capitata) – Abundant in the Pantanal, where it was usually one of the most numerous Passerines around.
BLACK-FACED TANAGER (Schistochlamys melanopis) – A couple showed nicely at the Dois Irmaos marsh.

A displaying trio of Streamer-tailed Tyrants (two of them here) were good fun. Photo by participant Bill Byers.

CINNAMON TANAGER (Schistochlamys ruficapillus) – Great views of these lovely tanagers on Cerro Cipo. The "large" bird Cindy spotted perched up on the ridge at Caraca also turned out to be one of these. Funny how birds can look so deceptively huge when perched against a light sky like that, isn't it?
MAGPIE TANAGER (Cissopis leverianus) – David found our only one at Caraca, attacking (or admiring) itself in the side mirror of a pickup truck parked near the pond.
WHITE-BANDED TANAGER (Neothraupis fasciata) – These shrike-like tanagers showed nicely a few times in the shrubby grasslands at Emas NP.
HOODED TANAGER (Nemosia pileata) – We ran into these ones just a couple of times in the Pantanal.
WHITE-RUMPED TANAGER (Cypsnagra hirundinacea) – Super views of a pair Marcelo called in close at Aguape, then a few more sightings at Emas NP. In my view, behaviorally and vocally, these birds don't seem much like tanagers at all.
BLACK-GOGGLED TANAGER (Trichothraupis melanops) – Our only one was a female with a mixed flock at Caraca.
GRAY-HEADED TANAGER (Eucometis penicillata) – A lone bird on the boardwalk railing at the "mosquito buffet" trail at San Francisco.
RUBY-CROWNED TANAGER (Tachyphonus coronatus) – A few sightings at Caraca, though I don't think anyone saw any ruby coloring on the crown. It is usually concealed after all.
WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus) – A few birds at Aguape and one or two along the Miranda side road were all for the trip.
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo) – A common species of riparian forest in the Pantanal.
SAYACA TANAGER (Thraupis sayaca) – Quite common most places, though few, if any, at Emas NP. One pair was nesting in the interior courtyard (near the Velvet Black-Tyrant nest) at Caraca. [N]
GOLDEN-CHEVRONED TANAGER (Thraupis ornata) – Good views of a pair in the row of palms below the courtyard at Caraca.
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum) – Reasonably common in the Pantanal (at Aguape at least) and at Caraca, with a group of 10+ birds also at the camping area at Emas NP.
BURNISHED-BUFF TANAGER (Tangara cayana) – These attractive tanagers were usually quick to join in on the pygmy-owl mobbing and we saw them regularly, though there were far fewer seen in the Pantanal than elsewhere.
BRASSY-BREASTED TANAGER (Tangara desmaresti) – A showy SE Brazil endemic, which we saw quite well at Caraca, though they were tougher to see well than the next species.

The group enjoys the cerrado around Emas. Photo by participant Peter Bono.

GILT-EDGED TANAGER (Tangara cyanoventris) – Another Tangara endemic to SE Brazil. We had multiple awesome views of these beauties at Caraca.
SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis) – A handful of birds on the latter part of the tour, with a couple hanging out in the fruiting fig tree above the parking lot at Pousada Monjolos, and a couple of sightings, including a glowing male, at Caraca.
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana) – Seen regularly in gallery forest at Emas NP, as well as around Cipo and Caraca.
RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus) – A lone male in tall forest adjacent to the Giant Snipe marsh, and a couple of birds during our drive back to Campo Grande were the only ones for the trip.
RUFOUS-HEADED TANAGER (Hemithraupis ruficapilla) – A pair of these beauties were scoped and seen well along the entrance road at Caraca.
CHESTNUT-VENTED CONEBILL (Conirostrum speciosum) – A couple of sightings in the Pantanal, including a very cooperative one that sat still for a long time and allowed us scope views at Aguape.
BLUE FINCH (Porphyrospiza caerulescens) – This stunning cerrado specialist was seen incredibly well several times in the grasslands at Cerro Cipo. Kind of makes Indigo Buntings look drab in comparison!
CINEREOUS WARBLING-FINCH (Poospiza cinerea) – It was a long "quarter-mile" hike downhill in the heat (and a 1/2 mile hike back up!) to get this local species, but we got it! At Cerro Cipo.
SAFFRON FINCH (Sicalis flaveola) – Pretty common throughout, though we inexplicably missed it on one day.
WEDGE-TAILED GRASS-FINCH (Emberizoides herbicola) – Good views at a pair in a scrubby field near the lodge at San Francisco and at the Giant Snipe marsh near Emas NP.
LESSER GRASS-FINCH (Emberizoides ypiranganus) – The marsh near Emas NP that we visited on our last afternoon there gave us a couple of these local finches, which posed nicely for scope views.
PALE-THROATED PAMPA-FINCH (Embernagra longicauda) – We eventually tracked down a couple of these specialties in a scrubby clearing along the Caraca entrance road, making up for the long distance view we'd had of one a day earlier.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina) – The most commonly seen seed-thing, noted almost daily on the trip.
WHITE-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila leucoptera) – A few of these were noted among the more common seedeaters at San Francisco.
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila nigricollis) – Quite a few were seen around Monjolos and at Caraca, where they were the most numerous seedeater.

The White-rumped Tanager was one of the very localized species we found in the scrubby savannas of Emas NP. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

DUBOIS'S SEEDEATER (Sporophila ardesiaca) – I found a male feeding in a patch of seeding grass below the lodge at Caraca on our final afternoon, and Kent managed to relocate it there the next morning before we departed. Someone (Charlotte, I think) also saw one on the hill above the lodge as we were preparing to leave, but we were unable to relocate it for the rest of the group. This species is sometimes considered a subspecies (or color variant) of Yellow-bellied Seedeater.
DOUBLE-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila caerulescens) – Small numbers both in the Pantanal and at Cipo and Caraca.
PLUMBEOUS SEEDEATER (Sporophila plumbea) – Quite numerous at Emas NP, with groups of them often getting our hopes up that we might find some of the rarer seedeater possibilities. Sadly, it was not a good year for seedeaters here, though.
RUSTY-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila collaris) – Good numbers of these gorgeous seedeaters were seen daily in the Pantanal.
COAL-CRESTED FINCH (Charitospiza eucosma) – It took quite a while to track this local species down at Emas NP, but we eventually found a pair and had some incredible close views of them, despite the windy conditions.
BLACK-MASKED FINCH (Coryphaspiza melanotis) – Another quite local species which we searched for at Emas NP, finding a pair early on not far from the ranger station.
PILEATED FINCH (Coryphospingus pileatus) – A pair along the side road we walked on the lower slopes of Cerro Cipo gave us great close views.
RED-CRESTED FINCH (Coryphospingus cucullatus) – A scattering of sightings of lone individuals in the Pantanal, starting with one spotted by Peter on our first afternoon at Aguape.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola) – Mainly in the forested areas of Cerro Cipo and Caraca, though we did have a single bird at the Campo Grande airport too.
BLACK-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator atricollis) – My first impressions upon seeing this bird for the first time were that it's not a saltator at all. We had plenty of looks at them at Emas NP, as well as at Cerro Cipo, and every subsequent view just reinforced that opinion. Watch for it to get reassigned (and renamed) someday.
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens) – Not uncommon in the Pantanal.
GREEN-WINGED SALTATOR (Saltator similis) – Seems to replace the similar Grayish Saltator in the east, and we found them quite common at Caraca.
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
SAFFRON-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon flavirostris) – One came in close and showed well in the riverside forest at Aguape, responding to a sparrow call in the background of a recording of our main quarry, the Chestnut-capped Foliage-gleaner.
GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis) – Fairly common and widespread in grasslands throughout.
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis) – Numerous around Cerro Cipo and Caraca. It took me a while to get used to their call notes, which sound totally unlike the call notes of the ones found in Central America.
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
HEPATIC TANAGER (LOWLAND) (Piranga flava flava) – Nice looks at a pair, then a single male, at Cerro Cipo.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
CHOPI BLACKBIRD (Gnorimopsar chopi) – Sometimes quite numerous at Emas NP and in the Pantanal.
UNICOLORED BLACKBIRD (Agelasticus cyanopus) – Some good numbers in the Pantanal, particularly at San Francisco.
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BLACKBIRD (Chrysomus ruficapillus) – One good-sized group of these was found at one spot at San Francisco. Once we managed to get one in good light, we were able to see the chestnut cap.
YELLOW-RUMPED MARSHBIRD (Pseudoleistes guirahuro) – Small numbers in the Emas NP region and at Cerro Cipo, in surprisingly unmarshy habitat.
BAY-WINGED COWBIRD (Agelaioides badius) – Note that the most recent taxonomic updates (which will show up on the new versions of our checklists) has split this species into two. The one we saw is now called Grayish Baywing and retains the same scientific name. These were pretty numerous in the Pantanal.

The Yellow Anaconda we spotted in San Francisco was probably at least three meters long! Photo by participant Peter Bono.

SCREAMING COWBIRD (Molothrus rufoaxillaris) – Small numbers in the Pantanal and at Emas, though we could easily have overlooked some as they are pretty similar to Shiny Cowbirds.
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis) – Fairly common throughout.
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus) – Pretty numerous in the Pantanal.
VARIABLE ORIOLE (Icterus pyrrhopterus) – This one was mistakenly on our list as Epaulet Oriole (with which it is sometimes lumped), but this is the species we saw regularly in the Pantanal.
ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL (Icterus croconotus strictifrons) – These brilliant birds were seen daily in small numbers in the Pantanal.
SOLITARY BLACK CACIQUE (Cacicus solitarius) – A few sightings of singe birds at San Francisco.
GOLDEN-WINGED CACIQUE (Cacicus chrysopterus) – A nesting pair along a canal at San Francisco showed nicely on our first afternoon there. Our only other one was a lone bird on the edge of gallery forest at Emas NP. [N]
RED-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus haemorrhous) – A few birds during the river trips in the Pantanal, mainly seen in flight over the river.
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus) – Fairly common in the Pantanal, and then quite numerous at Caraca, where there was a good-szied nesting colony near the lodge. [N]
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
PURPLE-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chlorotica) – Nice looks at a trio (2 males and a female) in gallery forest at Emas NP, then some also at Fazenda Monjolos and at Caraca.
BLUE-NAPED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia cyanea) – Heard at Caraca, but we couldn't locate them in the canopy. [*]
HOODED SISKIN (Spinus magellanicus) – I remember at least one male that flew over at Cerro Cipo, though it didn't offer up the kind of views folks would have liked.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) – Pretty widespread throughout. [I]

TUFTED-EAR MARMOSET (Callithrix jacchus) – These adorable little primates were early morning visitors to the feeders at Fazenda Monjolos.
MASKED TITI MONKEY (Callicebus personatus) – Heard often at Caraca, but I think we only managed to see one near the soccer field.

A gorgeous Blue Finch belted out his song one morning. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

BLACK HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta caraya) – A couple of these were seen along the river at Aguape, another at San Francisco. The female of this howler is decidedly not black.
BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella) – Nice looks at a troop eating fruit above the garden at Aguape.
GIANT ANTEATER (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) – Aguape seems to be the place for these, and we saw them daily in the area, including a whopping nine different animals seen from the bus as we drove back out to the main highway en route to San Francisco!
SIX-BANDED (YELLOW) ARMADILLO (Euphractus sexcinctus) – One showed up early in the morning around the feeder and bird bath at Aguape. It was pretty habituated and allowed close studies; we even watched it climb up onto the concrete deck and stroll into the kitchen as if looking for something to eat!
BRAZILIAN RABBIT (Sylvilagus brasiliensis) – A few bunnies were noted on the night drives in the Pantanal.
CAVY SP. (Galea/Cavia sp.) – The little guinea pig type creatures that we usually just glimpsed in the Pantanal.
CAPYBARA (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris) – Numerous in the Pantanal.
AZARA'S AGOUTI (Dasyprocta azarae) – Sightings were few, but we had one at Aguape, and another during a roadside stop en route from Emas NP to Campo Grande.
CRAB-EATING FOX (Cerdocyon thous) – A couple of very tame ones were nicely seen at Aguape, and a few more at San Francisco. A pair of these also showed up at the Caraca Sanctuary, visiting early in the morning to finish off the scraps left by the Maned Wolf.
MANED WOLF (Chrysocyon brachyurus) – By the third night at Caraca, I was starting to worry that we might miss this handsome beast. It had shown up the first night at 11:30, 15 minutes after I'd called it a night. The next night it didn't come until 11:40PM, with only Peter still up to watch for it. We were prepared to pull an all-nighter on the final night, only to have the wolf show up around 8:00PM! What a magnificent animal.
SOUTH AMERICAN COATI (Nasua nasua) – I think this was our first animal of the trip, as we saw a small troop cross the road ahead of the bus as we drove in to Aguape.
STRIPED HOG-NOSED SKUNK (Conepatus semistriatus) – One was spotted rooting around in the tall grass on our first morning at Emas NP.
PAMPAS CAT (Felis colocolo) – Marcelo spotted this animal in a vast field of sugar cane stubble en route to Emas NP, but it vanished in a small patch of taller grass near a power pole as we backed up the bus. So, we got out and approached, and found it crouched down low and glaring at us. Finally, it took off across the field and ran down a burrow. We wondered at first if it could have been just a feral cat, but after a fair bit of research online, ultimately we worked out that it really was a Pampas Cat.

Capybaras were plentiful -- and photogenic -- in the Pantanal. Photo by participant Bill Byers.

OCELOT (Felis pardalis) – Boy these things are common and pretty habituated at San Francisco. We saw several on each of the night drives, and one big male during the day that allowed pretty close approach. By the way, my daughter was happy with her photo of the "baby Jaguar"!
JAGUAR (Panthera onca) – We had to abandon our first Ocelot pretty quickly when we got word that a Jaguar was just up the road. As we approached the site, the cat crossed the road in front of our safari vehicle, then swam across a broad canal before emerging on the far side and shaking itself off before wandering off into the forest. It all happened so quickly, but we had superb looks in the spotlight of this majestic beast!
BRAZILIAN TAPIR (Tapirus terrestris) – In the early morning on the edge of Emas NP, we spotted one of these massive animals feeding in the ditch, and had fantastic views as it settled down again after the bus stopped. It moved away pretty fast, however, as soon as we started rolling again.
MARSH DEER (Blastocerus dichotomus) – This was the larger of the two deer species, and we saw plenty of them in the rice fields at San Francisco.
PAMPAS DEER (Ozotoceros bezoarticus) – A few of these smaller deer were seen at Aguape as well as at Emas NP.


This trip also featured a few memorable reptiles. Here is a brief list of the ones I noted on the trip list:

Yacare Caiman (Caiman yacare): Especially plentiful at San Francisco.

Paraguayan Caiman Lizard (Dracaena paraguayensis): one sleeping in a shrub on a night drive at an Francisco.

Yellow Anaconda (Eunectes notaeus): an impressively large one (~3 meters) at San Francisco.

Giant Ameiva (Ameiva ameiva): this is the large lizard we were calling Amazon Racerunner. Seen at Aguape by the bird bath.

Golden Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin): I believe this is the large tegu we saw at San Francisco.

Brazilian Lancehead (Bothrops moojeni): the pit viper we saw along the river at Emas NP.

Totals for the tour: 403 bird taxa and 20 mammal taxa