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We experienced the amazing termitaria-covered landscape of Emas National Park, where participant Rick Thompson got this evocative image, including two Aplomado Falcons, and a Pampas Deer.
Brazil is a big place, and it is home to a wide variety of biomes. Among its most famous are the Amazon and the Pantanal, both occupy huge areas and have their respective hydrologies to thank for their existence. In addition to these are drier regions that cut the humid Amazon from the humid Atlantic Forest, this is known as the “Dry Diagonal,” home to the grasslands we observed at Emas, the chapada de Cipo, and farther afield, the Chaco, Pampas, and Caatinga. We were able to dip our toes into several of these incredible features, beginning with the Pantanal, one of the world’s great wetlands, and home to a wide array of animals, fish, birds, and other organisms. In addition to daytime outings to enjoy the birdlife and see several of the habitats of the region (seasonally flooded grasslands, gallery forest, deciduous woodlands, and open country that does not flood), we were able to see a wide array of mammals during several nocturnal outings, culminating in such wonderful results as seeing multiple big cats (up to three Ocelots and a Jaguar on one night!), foxes, skunks, raccoons, Giant Anteaters, and others. To have such luck as this in the Americas is something special! Our bird list from the region included such memorable events as seeing an active Jabiru nest, arriving at our lodging at Aguape to a crowd of Hyacinth Macaws, as well as enjoying watching the antics of their cousins the Blue-and-yellow Macaws. We got to see some specialties of the area, such as the magical White Monjita as it feathered its nest, as well as the more widespread Rufous-tailed Jacamars zipping out to seize insects. There was no shortage of things to keep us busy!
From the Pantanal, we drove deeper into the Dry Diagonal, to a patch of cerrado habitat that serves as a reminder of what pristine Brazil would look like: Emas National Park. This glorious little patch contains a mix of “campo limpio” (grassland), “campo sujo” (shrubby grassland), and “campo rupestre” (rocky scrub and grassland), as well as marshes and gallery forests along some waterways. Its characteristic landscape, dotted with termitoria, is etched in our memories. This is a landscape that has been erased from so much of its former extent with the spread of agriculture and ranching—progress. Much as with the prairies of the Midwest of North America, small scraps of cerrado are all that is left to preserve this incredible flora and fauna. And it is incredible! Perhaps the most awe-inspiring sight we beheld was the magical bioluminescence of the larvae dotting the termitoria on the campo, mirrored by the unobstructed Milky Way overhead! But we also were able to enjoy such rare sights as the bizarre and well-named Cock-tailed Tyrant as males performed their little dancing flights over the grassland, the impressive display of the Streamer-tailed Tyrants when they vocalized, the lovely little Collared Crescentchest as it tooted from denser scrub, and the magnificent Helmeted Manakin that added color to the interior of the gallery forest, in much the same way as the White-rimmed Warbler’s song added an impressive soundtrack. As we returned to Campo Grande, we witnessed a large mass of Swallow-tailed Kites that were migrating over, perhaps birds returning to the area from their breeding sites in North America… a subtle way to show us how all the Western Hemisphere is connected in some way!
Next, we visited another habitat that makes up the Dry Diagonal, the campo rupestre of the Serra do Cipo, in the state of Minas Gerais. Here, in the landscape dotted with distinctive plants, we enjoyed other species specialized on the habitats: the colorfully named Firewood Gatherer, the electric Blue Finches as they claimed their territories, the King Vultures that passed over us, heading to roost at sunset. Taller woodlands along the waterways below the plateau were home to Swallow Tanagers, Collared Forest-Falcons, and understory species such as Saffron-billed Sparrow, Gray-headed Tanager, Sooty-fronted Spinetail, and a whole host of tyrannulets, finches, doves, and others.
Finally, we arrived in a remarkable massif that is still largely cloaked with its original Atlantic Forest habitat: the wonderful mountains that are home to Caraca! What forethought the monks had to preserve this amazing place! Here, we witnessed one of the most special of the mammals of the region: the regal Maned Wolf, as it came in to food offerings, showing amazing trust! Here too, we caught up with such birds as the striking Hyacinth Visorbearer, the more modest Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, and the gasp-producing Long-trained Nightjar as it took up its post along a quiet stretch of trail to hunt insects. We also paid a visit to the historic town of Ouro Preto to see into the history of Minas Gerais, taking in the wealth and the suffering that have resulted in making this region what it is today. Like so much of the world, both nature and humanity have both beauty and have scars to show for past events. Our opportunities to be able to travel the world, and observe these phenomena, accepting them for what they are, is one of the great gifts we are given as birders and general observers. Marcelo and I are grateful you joined us in doing this, and hope we can share more such experiences with you in the future! Until then, keep your eyes open, keep educating yourselves, and keep appreciating what life has in store.
Good birding! Dan
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Where else can you have breakfast with Toco Toucans? Photo by guide Dan Lane.
Rheidae (Rheas)
GREATER RHEA (Rhea americana) – Not a rare bird on this tour! We enjoyed watching a few males with their kindergarten groups of kids running along around them near Emas! What fun!
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
BROWN TINAMOU (Crypturellus obsoletus) – Heard a few at Caraca, but one bird showed for a few folks.
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) [*]
SMALL-BILLED TINAMOU (Crypturellus parvirostris) – Great views of a bird at Emas!
RED-WINGED TINAMOU (Rhynchotus rufescens) – Many seen from the safari vehicle at Emas.
SPOTTED NOTHURA (Nothura maculosa) – One at dusk to the south of Emas showed well for us.
Anhimidae (Screamers)
SOUTHERN SCREAMER (Chauna torquata) – More honkers than screamers, but you get the idea.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata) – Mostly around San Francisco.
BRAZILIAN TEAL (Amazonetta brasiliensis) – Well named.
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
CHACO CHACHALACA (Ortalis canicollis) – The alliteration here is astounding.
DUSKY-LEGGED GUAN (Penelope obscura) – These monsters seem to own the grounds of the Caraca compound!
BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis)
One of the sights we'll remember from this tour is the display of the lovely Streamer-tailed Tyrants at Emas National Park. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
BARE-FACED CURASSOW (Crax fasciolata) – A very handsome cracid we saw well at a few sites in the Pantanal.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)
PICAZURO PIGEON (Patagioenas picazuro) – Far and away the most common pigeon of the tour.
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea) – Encountered only in the forest around Caraca.
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)
SCALED DOVE (Columbina squammata) – The South American replacement for Inca Dove.
PICUI GROUND-DOVE (Columbina picui)
BLUE GROUND-DOVE (Claravis pretiosa) – On one drive at San Francisco, we saw several females on the road.
LONG-TAILED GROUND-DOVE (Uropelia campestris) – A small cluster on the outing our final day at Aguape was nice.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)
GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (Leptotila rufaxilla) [*]
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata)
While we often see Jabirus in the Pantanal, we do not always get to see active nests. Photo by participant Doug Clarke.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira) – Nearly every day!
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)
STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia) [*]
LITTLE CUCKOO (Coccycua minuta) – Seen well along the Rio Aquidauana, and again at the Miranda turnoff.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
NACUNDA NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles nacunda) – A few at dusk along the highway west of Campo Grande and again at Emas.
LEAST NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles pusillus) – Seen in flight over the burned area at Emas.
SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (NATTERERI) (Lurocalis semitorquatus nattereri) – Seen and heard around Caraca.
BAND-WINGED NIGHTJAR (Systellura longirostris) – One seen briefly at Cipo.
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)
WHITE-WINGED NIGHTJAR (Eleothreptus candicans) – Great views at close quarters at Emas. A really rare and local bird!
LITTLE NIGHTJAR (Setopagis parvula) – Seen on a night drive at San Francisco.
SPOT-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis maculicaudus) – Seen along the river south of Emas.
This ferocious-looking Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl was seen on our first night as it sat in an abandoned hornero nest. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
LONG-TRAINED NIGHTJAR (Macropsalis forcipata) – Wow! What a great experience with this species at Caraca!
OCELLATED POORWILL (Nyctiphrynus ocellatus) [*]
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis) – Seen our first night at Aguape.
COMMON POTOO (Nyctibius griseus)
Apodidae (Swifts)
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)
BISCUTATE SWIFT (Streptoprocne biscutata) – Huskier than the previous species; we saw this in large groups over Caraca.
SICK'S SWIFT (Chaetura meridionalis) – The "mirror image" species of the Chimney Swift in North America, this one is an Austral migrant that is common in southern Brazil and adjacent areas.
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
BUFF-BELLIED HERMIT (Phaethornis subochraceus) – A couple of birds showed well at San Francisco. This species is at its distributional limit here, mostly it is found further west in Bolivia.
PLANALTO HERMIT (Phaethornis pretrei) – At Caraca.
SCALE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis eurynome) – One at Caraca.
HYACINTH VISORBEARER (Augastes scutatus) – All right! After hearing a few and having them zip by us too fast to be seen well at Cipo, Marcelo scored a fine male for us at Caraca! What a spiffy lil' critter!
WHITE-VENTED VIOLETEAR (Colibri serrirostris) – Fairly numerous at Cipo.
Participant Rick Thompson captured the group intently focused on something.
HORNED SUNGEM (Heliactin bilophus) – A few folks got onto the apparent female that came in to feed on the Dasyphyllum flowers at that rocky roadside site at Cipo.
BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis)
STRIPE-BREASTED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster squamosus) – One of the last new birds of the main tour, Marcelo spotted one outside of one of the elaborate churches in Oro Preto. Nice catch!
AMETHYST WOODSTAR (Calliphlox amethystina) – A pair along the driveway at our lodging at Cipo.
GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon lucidus)
SWALLOW-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Eupetomena macroura) – Several of these fancy-pants hummers were around on the tour.
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata) – Seen in the Pantanal and Cipo.
VIOLET-CAPPED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania glaucopis) – A nice bird at Caraca.
VERSICOLORED EMERALD (Amazilia versicolor) – This and the next were at Cipo.
GLITTERING-THROATED EMERALD (Amazilia fimbriata)
GILDED HUMMINGBIRD (Hylocharis chrysura) – A common hummer in the Pantanal.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
ASH-THROATED CRAKE (Mustelirallus albicollis) – Nice views of this skulker in the fields south of Emas.
BLACKISH RAIL (Pardirallus nigricans) – Often hard to see, but a pair showed well at Caraca.
We saw a few Bare-faced Curassows in the Pantanal. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
GRAY-COWLED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus) – Nearly daily sightings in the Pantanal.
SLATY-BREASTED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides saracura) – A pair at the border of the garden at Caraca.
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica)
OCELLATED CRAKE (Micropygia schomburgkii) [*]
RUFOUS-SIDED CRAKE (Laterallus melanophaius) – One at San Francisco.
Heliornithidae (Finfoots)
SUNGREBE (Heliornis fulica) – Wow, I'm not sure I've ever seen this species so regularly as on this tour at San Francisco!
Aramidae (Limpkin)
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna) – A common bird in the Pantanal.
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (WHITE-BACKED) (Himantopus mexicanus melanurus) – Similar to more northerly Black-necked, but this form has a white crown and white collar at the back of the neck base.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
AMERICAN GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis dominica) – Small numbers of this migrant.
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus) – A handsome local resident we enjoyed in the Pantanal.
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) – Everywhere.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
HUDSONIAN GODWIT (Limosa haemastica) – Cool! We had a single bird in the muddy ricefield at San Francisco... a little off course, but on its way to the wintering grounds in Tierra del Fuego!
This Blue-and-Yellow Macaw was busy feasting when guide Marcelo Padua took this image.
WHITE-RUMPED SANDPIPER (Calidris fuscicollis) – A distant bird that liked hiding behind piles of mud in the field at San Francisco.
PECTORAL SANDPIPER (Calidris melanotos) – Same site as the last.
GIANT SNIPE (Gallinago undulata) – Heard only near Emas. [*]
WILSON'S PHALAROPE (Phalaropus tricolor) – Seen on two days at San Francisco.
SOLITARY SANDPIPER (Tringa solitaria)
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger) – Super-distant birds in the field at San Francisco were probably migrants headed back to the Rio La Plata area of Argentina from somewhere in northern South America.
Ciconiidae (Storks)
MAGUARI STORK (Ciconia maguari)
JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria) – Seen all days in the Pantanal, including an active nest.
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) – South America's only freshwater cormorant.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum)
The striking Barred Antshrike is common in the Pantanal, and we had some good looks at them, including this handsome male. Photo by participant Doug Clarke.
COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
WHISTLING HERON (Syrigma sibilatrix) – A truly lovely heron we enjoyed daily in the Pantanal and Emas.
CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus) – Seen one day at San Francisco. More common in the Amazon.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius) – Seen one evening at Aguape.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – Seen or heard most days in the Pantanal.
BARE-FACED IBIS (Phimosus infuscatus) – Jumpin' Jehoshaphat, we saw a lot of these ibis! I estimated around 3-5000 birds in the mud ricefields at San Francisco!
PLUMBEOUS IBIS (Theristicus caerulescens) – Our alarm clock at San Francisco.
Our first morning at Emas was enlivened by this tiny Sharp-tailed Tyrant. Photo by participant Rick Thompson.
BUFF-NECKED IBIS (Theristicus caudatus) – Daily for the first week and change of the tour.
ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja)
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
KING VULTURE (Sarcoramphus papa) – Two birds coasted over at dusk at Cipo, much to the glee of some folks!
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus) – Every day.
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus) – Rather an attractive bird when you see it up close.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – One day on the water at San Francisco.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)
HOOK-BILLED KITE (Chondrohierax uncinatus) – A female flew over at Emas.
GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis) – Cool, a dark morph immature, the first I've seen, was perched close to the road at San Francisco!
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)
BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis) – Seen on several days in the Pantanal.
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – Seen on several days in the Pantanal, including a large migrant group over San Francisco.
Red-legged Seriema is one of only two representatives of the family Cariamidae. These predators were seen in the grasslands. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea)
LONG-WINGED HARRIER (Circus buffoni) – One over the marsh south of Emas.
SHARP-SHINNED HAWK (RUFOUS-THIGHED) (Accipiter striatus erythronemius) – One flying over at Caraca.
BICOLORED HAWK (Accipiter bicolor) – One of our first birds as we got off the highway and headed north towards Aguape. This is the southern subspecies, guttifer, that looks very much like Cooper's Hawk.
CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens)
SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis) – A common raptor seen daily for the first week and change.
GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga)
CHACO EAGLE (Buteogallus coronatus) – A distant adult seen through the scope in the fading light at the overlook in Emas where the big burn was.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)
HARRIS'S HAWK (BAY-WINGED) (Parabuteo unicinctus unicinctus) – One individual along the road at San Francisco.
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus) – Seen most days at Emas and Cipo, and a young bird on the drive in to Caraca.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) – One at Caraca.
Tytonidae (Barn-Owls)
BARN OWL (Tyto alba) – Seen with some regularity at San Francisco and Emas.
Here is the group birding at Serra do Cipo, where we found goodies like Hyacinth Visorbearer, King Vulture, and the Cipo Canastero. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
Strigidae (Owls)
TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba) – Seen at Aguape.
BLACK-CAPPED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops atricapilla) [*]
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum) – Seen our first night as it sat in an abandoned hornero nest.
BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia) – Not rare at Emas! A max count of 46 in one outing thanks to Rick.
STRIPED OWL (Asio clamator) – Nice view of a bird one night at San Francisco.
Trogonidae (Trogons)
BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui) – The trogon in the Pantanal.
SURUCUA TROGON (Trogon surrucura) – The trogon at Caraca, where they have yellow bellies.
Momotidae (Motmots)
AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota) – Formerly part of Blue-crowned Motmot before that species was split up. We saw it well at Aguape.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata) – This and the next species were regulars in the Pantanal.
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)
AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle aenea) – Seen on two days at San Francisco.
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)
GREEN-AND-RUFOUS KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle inda) – Seen on the boat trip at San Francisco.
Participant Doug Clarke got this great photo of the Small-billed Tinamou we saw at Emas.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
WHITE-EARED PUFFBIRD (Nystalus chacuru) – A memorable species we enjoyed on one of the safari rides at Emas.
SPOT-BACKED PUFFBIRD (CHACO) (Nystalus maculatus striatipectus) – Seen on the day we departed Aguape and arrived at San Francisco.
CRESCENT-CHESTED PUFFBIRD (Malacoptila striata) – Brief but good views along the entrance road to Caraca.
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda) – Seen on about half of the days, including a bird entering a nest.
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis)
TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco) – A colorful, goofy bird we saw daily.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
WHITE-BARRED PICULET (WHITE-BARRED) (Picumnus cirratus cirratus) – Seen at Caraca.
WHITE-WEDGED PICULET (Picumnus albosquamatus albosquamatus) – This was the form we saw in the Pantanal.
WHITE-WEDGED PICULET (Picumnus albosquamatus guttifer) – Heard in the Cipo area. [*]
WHITE WOODPECKER (Melanerpes candidus) – A striking woodpecker that is in open country. Lofty flight, moving in flocks, and perching on obvious perches are its thing.
WHITE-FRONTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cactorum) – Seen on one day at Aguape.
LITTLE WOODPECKER (Dryobates passerinus) – Seen most days in the Pantanal.
ROBUST WOODPECKER (Campephilus robustus) – Wow, a great view of this impressive large woodpecker our first morning in the garden of Caraca!
Cock-tailed Tyrants were satisfyingly common at Emas. Photo by participant Rick Thompson.
CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos) – Ken and Marcelo saw this one the day we drove from Campo Grande to Emas.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)
CREAM-COLORED WOODPECKER (Celeus flavus) – A bird along the Rio Aquidauana was nice! This is largely an Amazonian species.
PALE-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Celeus lugubris) – Seen on three days in the Pantanal.
GOLDEN-GREEN WOODPECKER (Piculus chrysochloros)
GREEN-BARRED WOODPECKER (Colaptes melanochloros)
CAMPO FLICKER (Colaptes campestris) – Often around termite mounds.
Cariamidae (Seriemas)
RED-LEGGED SERIEMA (Cariama cristata) – Perhaps the last of the "terrorbirds" of prehistoric times!
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur semitorquatus) – A bird on the entrance road to Cipo NP gave us some brief views.
SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus) – An everyday bird.
Guide Dan Lane caught the Ash-throated Crake peering out from the reeds as we watched it at Emas.
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans) – Nice views of a singing bird at San Francisco.
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis) – Not a rare bird at Emas!
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus) – Only in the Pantanal.
YELLOW-CHEVRONED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chiriri)
SCALY-HEADED PARROT (Pionus maximiliani) – Seen both in the Pantanal and at Caraca.
YELLOW-FACED PARROT (Alipiopsitta xanthops) – An odd parrot in a monotypic genus that we saw around Emas.
TURQUOISE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona aestiva) – The most common Amazona parrot on the tour.
ORANGE-WINGED PARROT (Amazona amazonica) – Some had this at Aguape.
BLAZE-WINGED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura devillei) – A very local Pantanal specialist that we saw well at Aguape.
HYACINTH MACAW (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus) – Well, hard to miss this incredible parrot! One of the largest in the world (perhaps only matched in weight and bill size by the Palm Cockatoo).
PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEET (Eupsittula aurea) – Seen most days.
Curl-crested Jays have one of the fancier hair-dos of the bird-world, and we were able to appreciate them up close when they came to investigate us. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
NANDAY PARAKEET (Aratinga nenday) – An attractive parrot that is a Pantanal specialist.
RED-BELLIED MACAW (Orthopsittaca manilatus) – Seen on a couple of days in the Pantanal.
BLUE-WINGED MACAW (Primolius maracana) – Seen on one day at the Compolar rest stop.
YELLOW-COLLARED MACAW (Primolius auricollis) – Seen in the Pantanal most days.
BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna)
RED-SHOULDERED MACAW (Diopsittaca nobilis) – A rare, small macaw we saw a few times, once at Aguape and around Emas.
WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Psittacara leucophthalmus)
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
TUFTED ANTSHRIKE (Mackenziaena severa) – A tough one for us, but heard by all, and spotted by a lucky few, at Caraca.
GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major) – Common in the Pantanal.
BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus) – Common in the Pantanal.
RUFOUS-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus torquatus) – We enjoyed this lovely antshrike at Emas.
PLANALTO SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus pelzelni) – Seen at a roadside stop cerradão on our drive toward Emas.
VARIABLE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus caerulescens) – Present around Caraca.
Black-capped Warbling-Finch has a local distribution in Brazil, so we were happy to find this one. Photo by participant Doug Clarke.
BLACK-CAPPED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus atricapillus) – At Caraca.
LARGE-BILLED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus longirostris) – In the cerradão roadside stop and gallery forest at Emas.
SERRA ANTWREN (Formicivora serrana) – Seen on two days in the scrubbier habitats at Caraca.
RUSTY-BACKED ANTWREN (Formicivora rufa)
FERRUGINOUS ANTBIRD (Drymophila ferruginea) – This and the next two species were at Caraca.
OCHRE-RUMPED ANTBIRD (Drymophila ochropyga)
DUSKY-TAILED ANTBIRD (Drymophila malura)
MATO GROSSO ANTBIRD (Cercomacra melanaria) – Seen on several days in the Pantanal.
WHITE-SHOULDERED FIRE-EYE (Pyriglena leucoptera) – Seen at Caraca.
WHITE-BIBBED ANTBIRD (Myrmoderus loricatus) – A great view on the Tanque Grande trail.
Melanopareiidae (Crescentchests)
COLLARED CRESCENTCHEST (Melanopareia torquata) – A spiffy little bird we enjoyed at Emas, where we had a fine view our first morning there.
Conopophagidae (Gnateaters)
RUFOUS GNATEATER (Conopophaga lineata) – A bird at Tanque Grande trail at Caraca showed well.
Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos)
WHITE-BREASTED TAPACULO (Eleoscytalopus indigoticus) [*]
ROCK TAPACULO (Scytalopus petrophilus) – A nice view of this range restricted species right at the edge of the Caraca garden.
It's always a thrill to see a Giant Anteater! We saw them very well, too. Photo by participant Rick Thompson.
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
RUFOUS-BREASTED LEAFTOSSER (RUFOUS-BREASTED) (Sclerurus scansor scansor) – Some poor views of this skulker at the Tanque Grande trail at Caraca.
OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus)
PLANALTO WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes platyrostris) – Fine views of this bird near a roost hole at Aguape.
GREAT RUFOUS WOODCREEPER (Xiphocolaptes major) – Also at Aguape, where we had good views.
RED-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris) – Not rare in the Pantanal.
NARROW-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris)
STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans) – In flocks at Caraca.
PALE-LEGGED HORNERO (Furnarius leucopus) – Some views in the Pantanal.
RUFOUS HORNERO (Furnarius rufus) – An everyday bird.
SHARP-TAILED STREAMCREEPER (Lochmias nematura) – Seen our morning that we walked just below the garden at Caraca.
BUFF-FRONTED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor rufum) – Seen the same day as the last.
BUFF-BROWED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla rufosuperciliata) – Also at Caraca.
CHESTNUT-CAPPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Clibanornis rectirostris) – A rather rare, local species we saw well (eventually) from boats along the Rio Aquidauana.
WHITE-EYED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus leucophthalmus) [*]
A pair of Cliff Flycatchers were circling around at Caraca, where guide Marcelo Padua captured this one diving after prey.
RUFOUS-FRONTED THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus rufifrons) – Seen at San Francisco. Heard at Caraca.
GREATER THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus ruber) – Mostly at San Francisco.
ORANGE-EYED THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus erythrophthalmus) – Nice views of this species around the pond at Caraca.
FIREWOOD-GATHERER (Anumbius annumbi) – Looked like this species had had a successful burn before we arrived at Mae das Aguas near Cipo.
CIPO CANASTERO (Asthenes luizae) – After a couple of tries, we successfully saw this local endemic at sunset at its namesake site.
RUSTY-BACKED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca vulpina) – Seen most days in the Pantanal.
PALLID SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca pallida) – At Caraca.
RUFOUS CACHOLOTE (Pseudoseisura unirufa) – A jay-like furnariid we enjoyed most days in the Pantanal.
YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus) – A Pantanal regular.
CHOTOY SPINETAIL (Schoeniophylax phryganophilus) – The old "chewtoy" was a handsome spinetail we saw at Aguape.
GRAY-BELLIED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis cinerascens) – Seen along the entrance road at Caraca.
WHITE-LORED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albilora) – Seen at San Francisco.
RUFOUS-CAPPED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis ruficapilla) – At the edge of the garden at Caraca.
CINEREOUS-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis hypospodia) – We made a stop on a side road towards Dos Irmaos do Buriti our first day for this one.
Guide Dan Lane snapped this photo of some of the group on the trail at Emas looking like happy hikers, indeed!
SPIX'S SPINETAIL (Synallaxis spixi) – At the garden at Caraca.
PALE-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albescens) – In the brushy grasslands of Emas.
SOOTY-FRONTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis frontalis) – A pair along the entrance road to Cipo showed well.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum) – Seen or heard most days.
SUIRIRI FLYCATCHER (Suiriri suiriri burmeisteri) – We saw the yellow-bellied form of this species at Aguape and again at Cipo. See the next species for a bit of background...
CHAPADA FLYCATCHER (Suiriri affinis) – This species was at Emas, where we saw it best at the burned site. This species' history is a bit convoluted, with it first described as "affinis" in 1856, but then having that name applied to the previous species and subspecies because these two are very similar. This species was only recognized as distinct again in 2001, when it was described as a new species (named "Suiriri islerorum" after the Islers, who have done so much work on antbirds and tanagers), only to have it pointed out a decade later that islerorum was a synonym for affinis. That then required that burmeisteri be reinstated for the bird that had been called "affinis" in error for so long! Did any of that make sense?
MOUSE-COLORED TYRANNULET (Phaeomyias murina)
GRAY-BACKED TACHURI (Polystictus superciliaris) – Kathleen got us on this little cutie among the rocks at Cipo.
SUBTROPICAL DORADITO (Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis) – A migrant from the Andes, this yellowthroat-like tyrant winters in the Pantanal. It keeps a low profile, so we were lucky to see it!
FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii)
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster) – A common elaenia we saw several times on the tour.
LARGE ELAENIA (Elaenia spectabilis) – Seen in the Pantanal and at Cipo. Often one's first impression is of a short-billed Myiarchus flycatcher.
OLIVACEOUS ELAENIA (Elaenia mesoleuca) – A local elaenia of "campo rupestre" habitat that we saw at Caraca.
Dusky-legged Guans were obvious inhabitants at Caraca. Participant Rick Thompson got this photo of an alert individual.
PLAIN-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia cristata) – This pointy-headed elaenia showed well at Cipo.
LESSER ELAENIA (Elaenia chiriquensis) – Not actually much smaller than most elaenias, we saw this one also at Cipo.
HIGHLAND ELAENIA (BRAZILIAN) (Elaenia obscura sordida) – A pin-headed elaenia that lacks a crest. The Atlantic forest form has been split from the Andean form and is now called "Small-headed Elaenia" (E. sordida). Our checklist doesn't reflect that just yet, but will with the next update...
SOOTY TYRANNULET (Serpophaga nigricans) – A phoebe-like tyrannulet that we saw around the pond at Tanque Grande trail at Caraca.
SEPIA-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon amaurocephalus) – Encountered at Cipo and again at Caraca.
MOTTLE-CHEEKED TYRANNULET (Phylloscartes ventralis) – I'm usually a big fan of tyrannulets, but this one is pretty white-bread. Its cheeks aren't particularly mottled even.
PLANALTO TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias fasciatus) – Not much more patterned than the last, but has a cool voice, and thus, is interesting. We saw it particularly around Caraca.
SOUTHERN SCRUB-FLYCATCHER (Sublegatus modestus) – Seen the afternoon we spent on the Mae das Aguas trail near Cipo.
PLAIN TYRANNULET (Inezia inornata) – Encountered on a single day at San Francisco.
SHARP-TAILED TYRANT (Culicivora caudacuta) – This is a cute, memorable tyrant that we enjoyed our first morning at Emas. Everything about it is so tiny!
SOUTHERN ANTPIPIT (Corythopis delalandi) – Like a North American Ovenbird, this odd tyrant walks on the ground and flies up to low branches to sing. We saw it in one of the patches of gallery woodland at the edge of Emas.
RUFOUS-SIDED PYGMY-TYRANT (Euscarthmus rufomarginatus) – Seen at close quarters at Emas NP.
DRAB-BREASTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus diops) – A responsive bird in the bamboo below the garden at Caraca.
We were able to enjoy many Greater Rheas on the tour, including this one that posed for participant Doug Clarke.
HANGNEST TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus nidipendulus) – Fairly common in the second growth and edge around Caraca.
PEARLY-VENTED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer) – Mostly in the Pantanal.
OCHRE-FACED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus plumbeiceps) – Another bamboo bird at Caraca.
RUSTY-FRONTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus latirostris)
GRAY-HEADED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum poliocephalum) – Replacing the next species in the Atlantic forest of Caraca.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (MATO GROSSO) (Tolmomyias sulphurescens pallescens) – This was the form of Yellow-olive we encountered in the Pantanal.
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (SOORETAMA) (Tolmomyias sulphurescens sulphurescens) – And this was the form in the Atlantic Forest of Caraca.
WHITE-THROATED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus mystaceus) – A brief view of this small cutie in the gallery forest of Emas.
CLIFF FLYCATCHER (SWALLOW) (Hirundinea ferruginea bellicosa) – A pair or two were around the building at Caraca, permitting wonderful views!
BRAN-COLORED FLYCATCHER (Myiophobus fasciatus) – Great name. This bird stays regular... extremely regular.
EULER'S FLYCATCHER (Lathrotriccus euleri) – Seen at Emas in the gallery forest.
TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus cinereus) [*]
This pretty Collared Crescentchest was seen on our first day at Emas. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus) – Seen at a couple of sites in the Pantanal. Vermilion Flycatcher has had the Galapagos populations carved off and designated as separate species. On the mainland of South America, those east of the Andes could potentially be another separate species, but the jury is still out...
CRESTED BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus lophotes) – Kathleen got us on this attractive Phainopepla-like bird.
VELVETY BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus nigerrimus) – Seen on two days at Caraca.
GRAY MONJITA (Xolmis cinereus) – A mockingbird-like tyrant of open grasslands. We encountered it at Emas.
WHITE-RUMPED MONJITA (Xolmis velatus) – The most common monjita of the Pantanal.
WHITE MONJITA (Xolmis irupero) – As we departed Aguape, Marcelo spotted one of these ethereal tyrants as it carried material to a nest hole!
STREAMER-TAILED TYRANT (Gubernetes yetapa) – A really eye-catching tyrant that has a great group display to boot!
SHEAR-TAILED GRAY TYRANT (Muscipipra vetula) – Another tyrant that Marcelo spotted at Caraca.
BLACK-BACKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola albiventer) – Seen on two days at San Francisco.
MASKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola nengeta) – Regular around water at Caraca.
WHITE-HEADED MARSH TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala) – Diane got us on our first one at Aguape.
COCK-TAILED TYRANT (Alectrurus tricolor) – A really striking tyrant that we really enjoyed seeing at Emas. They are pleasingly common there!
LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus)
We enjoyed seeing two gorgeous Maned Wolves as they fed on the patio at Caraca. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
CATTLE TYRANT (Machetornis rixosa) – Like the love child of a Mockingbird and a Tropical Kingbird.
SIBILANT SIRYSTES (Sirystes sibilator) – Now that Sirystes has been broken into four species, this is the Atlantic Forest form.
RUFOUS CASIORNIS (Casiornis rufus) – Seen at Aguape, but not playing its namesake Casio synthesizer.
SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox) – Encountered most days.
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus) – A common Myiarchus on the tour, encountered most days.
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor) – Only seen on our boat trip at San Francisco. More tied to water than the next species.
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus) – Everyday bird.
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis) – Common in the Pantanal and Caraca.
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis) – Occurring beside the last at Caraca, but voice distinguishes them.
STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus) – These are the austral migrant form solitarius, which may merit separate species status some day.
VARIEGATED FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus varius) – Like a small-billed version of the last. We saw it mostly at Emas.
CROWNED SLATY FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus) – Another one at Emas.
The Southern Caracara was seen every day of the tour! It looks quite similar to the Crested Caracara of North America and has many similar behaviors. Photo by participant Rick Thompson.
WHITE-THROATED KINGBIRD (Tyrannus albogularis) – Seen near the river crossing at Emas, where a pair or two gave us great comparative looks!
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus) – An everyday bird.
FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus savana) – A very snazzy species that we saw a lot in the open country parts of the tour.
Pipridae (Manakins)
PALE-BELLIED TYRANT-MANAKIN (Neopelma pallescens) – The tyrant-manakin we saw in the cerradão roadside stop we made on our way to Emas.
SERRA DO MAR TYRANT-MANAKIN (Neopelma chrysolophum) – The tyrant-manakin we saw at Caraca. This one is an Atlantic Forest endemic.
HELMETED MANAKIN (Antilophia galeata) – A sharp-dressed manakin that was in the gallery forest at Emas.
SWALLOW-TAILED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia caudata) – Another attractive manakin that we enjoyed in the forest below the garden at Caraca. Some folks even got to see some of the display dance!
PIN-TAILED MANAKIN (Ilicura militaris) – Also at Caraca, and a real looker, although harder to see well.
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
BLACK-CROWNED TITYRA (Tityra inquisitor) – A pair showed well at Aguape.
GREENISH SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis virescens) – At the Tanque Grande trail at Caraca.
WHITE-NAPED XENOPSARIS (Xenopsaris albinucha) – One was a very good find in the brush at San Francisco!
GREEN-BACKED BECARD (Pachyramphus viridis) – A singing male gave us a good show at Caraca.
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) – Seen at Aguape, but heard on many days after that.
White-bellied Seedeaters were common in the Pantanal. Participant Doug Clarke got a nice portrait of this one.
CHIVI VIREO (RESIDENT) (Vireo chivi agilis) – Red-eyed Vireo has been split into North American Red-eyed and South American Chivi. Both have migratory populations (Red-eyed is entirely migratory, most wintering in South America), but some populations of Chivi are resident. Those we saw were likely migratory diversus, the one commonly breeding in southern and southeast Brazil.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
PURPLISH JAY (Cyanocorax cyanomelas)
CURL-CRESTED JAY (Cyanocorax cristatellus) – A bit of a dandy that really showed off to us at Emas, where they came in close hoping for a handout.
PLUSH-CRESTED JAY (Cyanocorax chrysops)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)
TAWNY-HEADED SWALLOW (Alopochelidon fucata) – Seen our first morning at Emas.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea) – Mostly in the Pantanal. These are the austral migrant form macroramphus.
BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera)
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer)
WHITE-RUMPED SWALLOW (Tachycineta leucorrhoa)
CLIFF SWALLOW (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota) – Boreal migrants that probably recently arrived at Emas.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon) – One of the most versatile birds in the Americas, being found from Canada to Tierra del Fuego.
Chaco Eagle is uncommon, so we were happy to see one at Emas. This photo is from the extension, where we also saw one; nice to have them on both parts of the tour! Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus unicolor) – The spotless form was regular in the Pantanal.
FAWN-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus guarayanus) – A species limited to Bolivia and the Pantanal near to it. We saw it at San Francisco.
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
MASKED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila dumicola)
Donacobiidae (Donacobius)
BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
PALE-BREASTED THRUSH (Turdus leucomelas) – The most common thrush on the tour.
WHITE-NECKED THRUSH (Turdus albicollis) [*]
RUFOUS-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus rufiventris) – Brazil's national bird!
CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus amaurochalinus)
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
CHALK-BROWED MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus saturninus) – Lacking the white wing patches, but temperamentally much like the Northern Mockingbird.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
YELLOWISH PIPIT (Anthus lutescens) – Encountered in the Pantanal. We enjoyed its flight display, and saw birds on the ground at close quarters.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
BLUE-NAPED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia cyanea) – In the forest at Caraca.
PURPLE-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chlorotica)
HOODED SISKIN (Spinus magellanicus) – The most widespread siskin in South America. We saw some at Mae das Aguas.
We had a chance to get up-close and personal with a habituated Brazilian Tapir at the central station at Emas, and also got to see a wild one when we were driving one evening. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
Passerellidae (New World Sparrows)
GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis) – Similar to our Grasshopper Sparrow, we saw it at Aguape and again at Emas.
SAFFRON-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon flavirostris) – We saw the gray-backed form polionotus at the cerradão woodland on the way to Emas, and green-backed nominate flavirostris on the entrance road to Cipo.
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis) – Common at Cipo and Caraca.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
WHITE-BROWED MEADOWLARK (Leistes superciliaris)
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus)
SOLITARY BLACK CACIQUE (Cacicus solitarius)
GOLDEN-WINGED CACIQUE (Cacicus chrysopterus) – A small cacique that we saw on three days in the Pantanal.
VARIABLE ORIOLE (Icterus pyrrhopterus) – Formerly part of Epaulet Oriole, which has since been split, with the southern and eastern birds now in Variable. Here, in the Pantanal, their shoulders are chestnut, but in Northeast Brazil, they are yellow.
ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL (Icterus croconotus strictifrons) – An attractive flame orange oriole that we enjoyed in the Pantanal.
SCREAMING COWBIRD (Molothrus rufoaxillaris) – A curious cowbird that only parasitizes the nests of Baywings, and the young actually look like Baywings until they molt into adult plumage! Sneaky!
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus) – A goliath that parasitizes oropendolas and caciques.
SCARLET-HEADED BLACKBIRD (Amblyramphus holosericeus) – An eye-catcher we enjoyed at San Francisco. Thanks to that Harris' Hawk, we stuck around just long enough to detect it!
Tufted-ear Marmosets were seen at our lodge in Cipo, where participant Rick Thompson got this image of a pensive individual.
CHOPI BLACKBIRD (Gnorimopsar chopi)
GRAYISH BAYWING (Agelaioides badius)
UNICOLORED BLACKBIRD (Agelasticus cyanopus)
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BLACKBIRD (Chrysomus ruficapillus) – A cafe stoop in the town of Cipo is an ad hoc feeder, and on our second pass, we managed to see these lovely blackbirds there.
YELLOW-RUMPED MARSHBIRD (Pseudoleistes guirahuro) – Rather odd blackbirds we saw in good numbers at Emas.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
MASKED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis aequinoctialis)
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi)
GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (WHITE-BELLIED) (Basileuterus culicivorus hypoleucus)
WHITE-STRIPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis leucophrys) – A local Brazilian endemic that we saw in the gallery forest at Emas. The English name is a bit confusing with respect to White-browed Warbler, which we saw later at Caraca.
FLAVESCENT WARBLER (Myiothlypis flaveola) – A pleasing singer we saw briefly in the cerradão roadside stop on the way to Emas.
WHITE-BROWED WARBLER (Myiothlypis leucoblephara) – A widespread warbler of Atlantic Forest that we saw and heard well at Caraca.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CRESTED CARDINAL (Paroaria coronata) – A marquee bird for the Pantanal, and popular in the cagebird trade. There are populations on Hawaii!
YELLOW-BILLED CARDINAL (Paroaria capitata) – Another species that is on Hawaii.
Guide Marcelo Padua photographed a Chaco Chachalaca posing in a flowering tree.
CINNAMON TANAGER (Schistochlamys ruficapillus) – Seen on one day in Cipo.
MAGPIE TANAGER (Cissopis leverianus) – A fancy tanager we enjoyed at Caraca.
WHITE-BANDED TANAGER (Neothraupis fasciata) – Looking a bit like a shrike, this species is at home in the shrubby grasslands of Emas.
HOODED TANAGER (Nemosia pileata) – Present in the Pantanal.
BLACK-CAPPED WARBLING-FINCH (Microspingus melanoleucus) – Although widespread and common in Eastern Bolivia and northern Argentina, this species is very local in Brazil. We spied it at the Miranda turnoff as we returned to Campo Grande from Aquidauana.
CINEREOUS WARBLING-FINCH (Microspingus cinereus) – Closely related to the last, but found farther east. We saw it around Cipo.
WHITE-RUMPED TANAGER (Cypsnagra hirundinacea) – Another specialist of brushy grasslands; we encountered this tanager first at Aguape, then again at Emas.
BLACK-GOGGLED TANAGER (Trichothraupis melanops) – A great name for a bird we saw at Caraca.
GRAY-HEADED TANAGER (Eucometis penicillata) – A widespread species, found from Mexico to Argentina. We saw it on the entrance road to Cipo.
RUBY-CROWNED TANAGER (Tachyphonus coronatus) – An Atlantic Forest species we encountered at Caraca.
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo) – A widespread tanager in Amazonia that reaches its southern terminus in the Pantanal.
FAWN-BREASTED TANAGER (Pipraeidea melanonota) – Another widespread tanager that we enjoyed in the forest at Caraca.
SAYACA TANAGER (Thraupis sayaca) – The replacement for Blue-gray Tanager in much of eastern Brazil.
A big thrill was seeing this beautiful Jaguar fairly close to our vehicle! Participant Doug Clarke got this shot before it disappeared into the night.
GOLDEN-CHEVRONED TANAGER (Thraupis ornata)
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)
BURNISHED-BUFF TANAGER (Tangara cayana) – One of the few open country Tangara tanagers (although recent taxonomic shuffling has removed it from that genus).
GILT-EDGED TANAGER (Tangara cyanoventris) – The guilt-laden tanager spends its life wondering what it has done to wrong others.
SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis) – Widespread, but most common on this tour in Caraca.
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana)
RUFOUS-HEADED TANAGER (Hemithraupis ruficapilla) – A great experience with this Atlantic Forest species on our last morning around Cipo.
CHESTNUT-VENTED CONEBILL (Conirostrum speciosum) – Mostly encountered around the Pantanal sites.
BLUE FINCH (Porphyrospiza caerulescens) – An electric blue finch-tanager with a gaudy yellow bill! What more do you want?
SAFFRON FINCH (Sicalis flaveola) – A common and widespread species. It was a bit of a shock to see them assisting the guans in gobbling up the chicken fat after the Maned Wolf food was cleared in the morning!
GRASSLAND YELLOW-FINCH (GRASSLAND) (Sicalis luteola luteiventris) – A bird I know from the Andean populations, but seems different in appearance and behavior in Cipo, where we saw them foraging in a recently burned area with Blue FInches. Others have suggested a split in this species, and I'm inclined to agree!
WEDGE-TAILED GRASS-FINCH (Emberizoides herbicola) – Fairly common in open grasslands.
LESSER GRASS-FINCH (Emberizoides ypiranganus) – More restricted in habitat than the previous species, this one seems limited to marshes. Its song sounds more like a Sedge Wren.
We saw 11 species of Spinetail in all! This one is Spix's Spinetail, which we saw in the garden at Caraca. Photo by participant Doug Clarke.
PALE-THROATED PAMPA-FINCH (Embernagra longicauda) – One bird singing in shrubby woodland at Caraca.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)
WHITE-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila leucoptera) – One of the more common seedeaters in the Pantanal.
PEARLY-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila pileata) – A rather snazzy seedeater we saw in a few flocks at Emas.
TAWNY-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila hypoxantha) – Fairly common in flocks at Emas, and we saw a few at San Francisco as well.
MARSH SEEDEATER (Sporophila palustris) – The striking seedeater with the white throat that was in flocks at Emas.
CHESTNUT SEEDEATER (Sporophila cinnamomea) – Another attractive seedeater at Emas with a gray cap and chestnut body.
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEED-FINCH (Sporophila angolensis) – Seen by some folks at Aguape.
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila nigricollis) – Present at Cipo.
DOUBLE-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila caerulescens) – Widespread.
PLUMBEOUS SEEDEATER (Sporophila plumbea) – Seen on several days at Emas.
RUSTY-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila collaris) – Widespread in the Pantanal and Emas.
COAL-CRESTED FINCH (Charitospiza eucosma) – Wow, a very cool little finch-tanager we saw well at Emas. The male's plumage pattern is very fetching!
White-winged Nightjar is very rare and local, but we got a great view of this one in Emas. Photo by guide Marcelo Padua.
BLACK-MASKED FINCH (Coryphaspiza melanotis) – A grassland finch-tanager we saw as we drove the "back forty" of Emas in the blazing sun of midday!
PILEATED FINCH (Coryphospingus pileatus) – This and the next species are closely related. This one is in the more easterly sites such as Cipo and Caraca.
RED-CRESTED FINCH (Coryphospingus cucullatus)
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)
BLACK-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltatricula atricollis) – One of the anomalous "saltators," acting more like a Pampa-Finch. Common on this tour!
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens)
GREEN-WINGED SALTATOR (Saltator similis) – Mostly in the Atlantic Forest of Caraca.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
MAMMALS
LESSER BULLDOG BAT (Noctilio albiventris)
TUFTED-EAR MARMOSET (Callithrix jacchus) – Around our lodging at Cipo.
MASKED TITI MONKEY (Callicebus personatus) [*]
BLACK HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta caraya) [*]
BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella)
In the Pantanal, we spent time watching this active Jabiru nest from the comfort of our safari vehicle. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
GIANT ANTEATER (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) – Wow, seeing multiple individuals per day is amazing!
SOUTHERN TAMANDUA (Tamandua tetradactyla) – Great views of one trucking across the fields at Aguape.
SIX-BANDED (YELLOW) ARMADILLO (Euphractus sexcinctus)
NINE-BANDED ARMADILLO (Dasypus novemcinctus)
BRAZILIAN RABBIT (Sylvilagus brasiliensis) – The one rabbit in all of South America. Imagine our luck!
GUIANAN SQUIRREL (Sciurus aestuans) – Seen on two days at Caraca.
GUINEA PIG (Cavia aperea) – On iNaturalist, this is called Brazilian Cavy. It may be one of the ancestors of the domestic guinea pig.
CAPYBARA (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris) – The world's largest rodent, and one of the last herd-forming megafauna of South America.
AZARA'S AGOUTI (Dasyprocta azarae)
HOARY FOX (Lycalopex vetulus) – We saw this species at Emas.
CRAB-EATING FOX (Cerdocyon thous) – A common fox in the Pantanal and at Caraca, where they seemed to dominate the larger Maned Wolf!
MANED WOLF (Chrysocyon brachyurus) – A magnificent animal! Diane spotted our first one just outside of Emas, and of course we enjoyed the visits of two animals at the Caraca patio. Its feeding stance reminds me of a giraffe drinking.
CRAB-EATING RACCOON (Procyon cancrivorus) – Seen at both Aguape and San Francisco.
SOUTH AMERICAN COATI (Nasua nasua)
STRIPED HOG-NOSED SKUNK (Conepatus semistriatus) – Along the road as we departed Emas.
NEOTROPICAL OTTER (Lontra longicaudis) – Diane spotted this relative of the North American River Otter on the road at San Francisco.
OCELOT (Felis pardalis) – WOW! Three in one night!!
JAGUAR (Panthera onca) – Oh, how cool was this? The largest cat in the Americas, and it was just sitting beside our vehicle until we spotted it... then it reluctantly swam across the ditch and walked peacefully away into the dark of night. Everyone's hearts were pounding!
BRAZILIAN TAPIR (Tapirus terrestris) – First a semi-wild individual at the central station at Emas, then a wild one as we drove back to town on our last evening there.
WILD BOAR (Sus scrofa) – At Aguape. This is an introduction from Eurasia.
COLLARED PECCARY (Tayassu tajacu) – At Emas.
MARSH DEER (Blastocerus dichotomus) – The largest deer in South America, it was rather common at San Francisco.
PAMPAS DEER (Ozotoceros bezoarticus) – Rather an attractive deer with the white facial markings. Common in the Pantanal and Emas.
RED BROCKET DEER (Mazama americana) – We saw one of these at Aguape on our second night there.
BROWN BROCKET DEER (Mazama gouazoubira) – We saw this one at San Francisco our first night there.
Herps
GIANT AMEIVA (Ameiva ameiva) – The big greenish racerunners, particularly around Emas.
GOLDEN TEGU (Tupinambis teguixin) – The big "monitor-like" lizards seen on several days.
PARAGUAYAN CAIMAN (Caiman yacare)
CANE TOAD (Rhinella marina)
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Ghost bat sp. (Diclidurus sp.)
Rat sp.
Lava Lizard sp. (Tropidurus)
Hammering Frog: in the pond at Caraca.
Totals for the tour: 411 bird taxa and 30 mammal taxa