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Tinamidae (Tinamous)

GREAT TINAMOU (Tinamus major)

One stood stock-still in the forest just off the Sendero Meandrico at Carara NP, with only its blinking eyelids and slightly turning head giving its presence away. We saw another briefly on the river trail at Villa Lapas, and heard still another near the start of the Braulio Carrillo trail.

LITTLE TINAMOU (Crypturellus soui) [*]

We heard the high, quavering whistles of one as we started our walk along La Selva's entrance road our first morning at the reserve.

Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)

BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)

Two flew over while we birded along the road near the police station in Puerto Viejo, but the biggest numbers -- and best looks -- came along the Tarcoles River, where dozens stood along the banks or flushed away in front of our boat.

MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)

At least a half dozen of these heavy-bodied ducks foraged in the grass along the edge of the Tarcoles River.

Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)

GRAY-HEADED CHACHALACA (Ortalis cinereiceps)

We spotted our first in a roadside tree during the drive to La Quinta, but our best views undoubtedly came at Rancho, where they regularly swarmed over the banana feeders. We saw others on the grounds of La Quinta and Fonda Vela.

CRESTED GUAN (Penelope purpurascens)

Fine views of several high in trees at La Selva, with another at Braulio Carrillo. But our best views came at Curi-Cancha, where we found a duo resting in trees just over our heads only feet off the trail.

GREAT CURASSOW (Crax rubra)

All-too-brief views of a female with a chick along La Selva's STR trail, and a quick glimpse of two other females sprinting across La Selva's residential clearing in the pouring rain.

Odontophoridae (New World Quail)

MARBLED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus gujanensis)

A trio scratching in the leaf litter just off the Quebrada Bonita trail at Carara was a highlight of our afternoon walk there.

BLACK-BREASTED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus leucolaemus)

Arg! We were oh-so-close along one of the trails at Santa Elena NP, but only a lucky few saw them creeping through the vegetation downslope of where we stood. A few folks spotted a pair crossing the Fonda Vela driveway while walking to breakfast on our last morning there.

SPOTTED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus guttatus)

Some expert wrangling by Vernon brought a few of these handsome birds within yards of us along one of the trails at Trogon Lodge -- great spotting, Ed!

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]

Common in cities and bigger towns throughout, amd regularly scattered on roadside wires on our various drives.

PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)

Our best looks came on the morning we birded the road near the Puerto Viejo police station, when we found a trio sitting on wires at the intersection. We had others on the drive to Rancho Naturalista.

RED-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas flavirostris)

Very common on the Caribbean slope, much less so on the Pacific. A few on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea gave us the chance to study them from close proximity. They're named for the narrow red band at the base of their distinctively YELLOW bills.

BAND-TAILED PIGEON (Patagioenas fasciata)

Regularly seen in flight -- typically in small flocks -- in the highlands, with our best views coming in a fruiting tree right outside the office at Fonda Vela. The subspecies we saw is "crissalis", which is endemic to Costa Rica and Panama.

RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea)

Small numbers in the highlands, including one high overhead in the gorgeous oak forest along the Robles trail and a pair rummaging on the edge of the road through the Savegre valley. Their distinctive "hit the FOUL pole" calls were a regular part of the soundtrack at Curi-Cancha.

SHORT-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas nigrirostris)

Common in the lowlands, particularly on the Caribbean slope, where their "up cup a COO" song helps to separate them from the very similar-looking previous species. Despite their abundance, we saw them only once -- a single bird along La Selva's entrance road.

INCA DOVE (Columbina inca)

Our first was seen along the Calle de Mica (the street across from the Hotel Bougainvillea), but these small doves were most common on the Pacific slope, where we had them daily. The scaly birds trundling along field edges and roadsides near Tarcoles probably gave us our best views.

RUDDY GROUND DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)

Regular in the lowlands of both slopes, with some good studies of several pairs along the road near the Puerto Viejo police station.

RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon montana)

One trundled around in the undergrowth along Carara's Sendero Meandrico one morning, and another did the same along the Sendero Quebrada Bonita later that afternoon.

WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)

Reasonably common throughout, though never in big numbers. The ones under the feeders at Rancho Naturalista probably gave us our best looks.

GRAY-CHESTED DOVE (Leptotila cassinii)

A few on the grounds of the Villa Lapas, with one along the wide river trail showing nicely the golden-brown nape of the western subspecies, rufinucha.

BUFF-FRONTED QUAIL-DOVE (Zentrygon costaricensis)

Fabulous studies of one of these handsome forest dwellers along a path in Santa Elena NP. This is a Chiriqui endemic, found only in Costa Rica and western Panama.

CHIRIQUI QUAIL-DOVE (Zentrygon chiriquensis) [*]

We heard one calling from a densely vegetated hillside along Savegre's Quebrada trail, but couldn't entice it out to where we could see it.

WHITE-WINGED DOVE (Zenaida asiatica)

Regular -- and sometimes abundant -- throughout. As recently as 2007, this species was restricted to the northwestern corner of Costa Rica.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos)

GROOVE-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga sulcirostris)

Noisy flocks in the lowlands of both slopes, including a big group mooching in fields along the road near Puerto Viejo's police station and many along the Guacimo road.

SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)

These big cuckoos showed well on several days, including one bounding like its namesake through branches of a tree at Tapanti. We had others along the Silencio road, on the drive up to Monteverde and at Fonda Vela.

Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)

COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)

Their distinctive calls were heard on several occasions, but we saw only one -- briefly in the headlights as it flashed off the road in front of us on our drive back to La Quinta from our night outing at La Selva.

DUSKY NIGHTJAR (Antrostomus saturatus)

Persistence paid off in the end! After trying for long minutes to get views at a recalcitrant bird near the start of the Savegre valley road, we connected with a much more cooperative bird hunting near the lights outside one of the lodges lower down in the valley. This is another Chiriqui endemic.

Nyctibiidae (Potoos)

GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis)

One snoozed in a treetop along the Calle Dante, seen as we made our way back to the hotel after our visit to Cope's garden. Through the scopes, we could even seen the little notches in its eyelids which allow it to peek out without opening its huge eyes (and thus potentially spoiling the illusion of it being just a part of the tree).

Apodidae (Swifts)

WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)

These big swifts made regular appearances, typically in sizable (sometimes noisy) groups. We were struck by how infrequently they flapped -- an aspect of their flight that was particularly apparent along the Guacimo road, where they were vastly outnumbered by smaller, fast-flapping Chaetura swifts (species uncertain).

GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura cinereiventris)

Small numbers over La Selva on a couple of days, occasionally banking far enough that we could see their distinctively pale rumps.

COSTA RICAN SWIFT (Chaetura fumosa)

A handful fluttered in the skies over the Pacific coast road, seen from the parking lot where we stopped to ogle the Scarlet Macaws. Formerly considered to be a subspecies of the Band-rumped Swift, it was split as a distinct species at the end of the last century.

VAUX'S SWIFT (Chaetura vauxi)

A small group fluttered over Calle de Mica (the street across from the Hotel Bougainvillea) during our first morning's outing, and others zoomed over Fonda Vela. This resident species is the plainest of the Chaetura swifts seen in Costa Rica during the summer.

LESSER SWALLOW-TAILED SWIFT (Panyptila cayennensis)

One soared over, showing its distinctively long, pointed tail as we started our first morning's walk with Joel at La Selva. Unfortunately, it quickly disappeared into the distance, never to be seen again. Some of the group saw another over the feeders at La Quinta one morning.

Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)

WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora)

Particularly abundant at Rancho Naturalista, where they jousted over the feeders. Recent research has revealed that nearly 20% of birds with "male" plumage are actually females! This decreases the amount of aggression they face at feeders, but may make it tougher to find mates.

BAND-TAILED BARBTHROAT (Threnetes ruckeri)

Brief views for some of an elusive bird that ducked into a bush near the feeders at La Quinta one morning; the white base to its tail and its dark throat are distinctive.

GREEN HERMIT (Phaethornis guy)

Scattered birds, particularly on the Caribbean slope, including one visiting the feeders at La Paz Waterfall Garden and others around Rancho Naturalista and Hotel Quelitales. One at Santa Elena was our only sighting on the Pacific slope.

LONG-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis longirostris)

Small numbers in the lowlands on both slopes, with a fabulous encounter with a courting (or dueling?) pair along the river trail at Villa Lapas. The very long, down-curved bill and white-tipped tail of this big, bronzy hummer help help to distinguish it.

STRIPE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis striigularis)

Another species seen particularly well at Villa Lapas, where one regularly visited flowers near the dining room. We had others along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail and at Rancho's hummingbird pools.

GREEN-FRONTED LANCEBILL (Doryfera ludovicae)

Superb studies of one hunting insects from a perch at the base of the waterfall at Hotel Quelitales. It returned again and again to the same stick, giving us the chance for leisurely views in the scopes.

BROWN VIOLETEAR (Colibri delphinae)

Great looks at these fairly drab hummingbirds around the feeders at La Paz Waterfall Gardens, where they jousted with all and sundry, occasionally even flaring their distinctive violet "ears". We saw others at Rancho Bajo and around the feeders at Quelitales.

LESSER VIOLETEAR (Colibri cyanotus)

Our first was one buzzing around the feeders at Freddo Fresas, our first stop as we made our way up towards Volcan Poas on our first morning. We had others around Quelitales, at Miriam's cafe, at Paraiso Quetzal and at Curi-Cancha. This highland species was recently split from the former Green Violetear complex.

PURPLE-CROWNED FAIRY (Heliothryx barroti)

Our first, flitting near the feeders at La Quinta one morning, wasn't seen by everyone, but another, dipping itself repeatedly into the Rancho hummingbird pools rectified that. Its long tail, with the flashy white outer tail feathers, was really eye-catching! We saw a final bird along Carara's Sendero Meandrico.

GREEN-BREASTED MANGO (Anthracothorax prevostii)

Small numbers around the feeders at Rancho, with others at Rancho Bajo and in the Tuis Valley -- including a burgeoning nest with two nearly-grown youngsters on a telephone wire there. When mom visited, it looked a bit like a sword-swallowing act!

GREEN THORNTAIL (Discosura conversii)

A female perched high in a leafless tree near the dining room at La Selva one afternoon was a surprise. In nearly three decades of working there, Joel had only seen the species there a handful of times.

BLACK-CRESTED COQUETTE (Lophornis helenae)

A female danced across a high leafless treetop near the entrance to La Selva early our first morning there, showing pretty well in the scopes.

GREEN-CROWNED BRILLIANT (Heliodoxa jacula)

Fairly regular at higher elevations on the first half of the trip, from the feeders at La Pax and Rancho to those of Quelitales, Trogon Lodge and Mirador Valle del General.

TALAMANCA HUMMINGBIRD (Eugenes spectabilis)

Our first perched under a shed roof at Freddo Fresas, sheltering from the rain. They proved most common in the Savegre valley, with particularly nice views in the flowering hedges around Trogon Lodge. This species was recently split from the former Magnificent Hummingbird complex.

LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris)

One perched up at the edge of the clearing at La Selva got our afternoon's walk along the STR trail off to a good start. The white patch on their lower back/rump helps to distinguish the starthroats, and the small white patch behind the eye helps to separate this species from the similar, but white-browed, next one.

PLAIN-CAPPED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster constantii)

One returned repeatedly to the top of some mangroves in Tarcoles, repeatedly confusing our search for an also-present Mangrove Hummingbird.

FIERY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Panterpe insignis)

Feeders at Miriam's and Paraiso Quetzal really let us come to grips with these gorgeous hummers. Both sexes share that fantastically rainbow-colored gorget.

WHITE-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis hemileucus)

One's visit to a feeder at La Paz Waterfall Garden was all too brief. Fortunately, a male that perched above the waterfall pool at Quelitales was far more cooperative, letting us study him in the scopes.

PURPLE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis calolaemus)

At least one purple-gorgeted male repeatedly visited the feeders at La Paz Waterfall Garden, and we caught up with others -- including several peachy-breasted females -- at Santa Elena NP and Curi-Cancha.

WHITE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (GRAY-TAILED) (Lampornis castaneoventris cinereicauda)

Regular in the Savegre valley, with some super studies of some at Miriam's cafe and another at Paraiso Quetzal. The female is virtually identical to the female Purple-throated Mountain-gem. This is another Chiriqui endemic.

MAGENTA-THROATED WOODSTAR (Philodice bryantae)

One, seen all too briefly hovering over a flowering hedge near the entrance to the Corso dairy farm.

VOLCANO HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus flammula)

A perched youngster (with a single rosy gorget feather) at the entrance to the Corso dairy farm gave us a nice opportunity to study him in the scopes, but this highland species proved most common in the Savegre valley, where we saw dozens. Still another Chiriqui endemic.

SCINTILLANT HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus scintilla)

We saw surprisingly few of these highland hummers this trip -- and then only around the entrance to the Corso dairy farm. This too is a Chiriqui endemic.

VIOLET-HEADED HUMMINGBIRD (Klais guimeti)

One was a repeated visitor to the verbena hedge just outside the Rancho dining area, giving us multiple opportunities for observation. Though its violet crown was sometimes a bit tough to see, its small size, cocked-up tail and the white dot behind its eye made it easy to identify anyway.

VIOLET SABREWING (Campylopterus hemileucurus)

The big, flashy, highland hummers proved to be rather pugnacious around feeders at La Paz Waterfall Garden, Quelitales and Mirador Valle del General. We found a few chirping away on "exploded" leks along the trails at Santa Elena and Curi-Cancha. Their huge white tail tips are certainly eye-catching.

BRONZE-TAILED PLUMELETEER (Chalybura urochrysia)

One at Cope's feeders made repeated visits to a branch right near the viewing blind, giving us great chances to study its distinctive red feet, which are unique among Costa Rica's hummingbirds. We saw another just below the picnic shelter at Braulio Carrillo.

CROWNED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania colombica)

Surely the cleanest hummingbirds in Costa Rica, given the amount of time they spent bathing in the pools at Rancho! We had some fine views there and at the balcony feeders -- where they were often within inches of our faces, with others at Quelitales.

SNOWCAP (Microchera albocoronata)

Our best views came at Rancho Bajo, where we found one little male sitting quietly in a verbena hedge just up the hill from the house and several females feeding low in bushes near the house. We watched another female dipping herself into one of the hummingbird pools later the same afternoon.

COPPERY-HEADED EMERALD (Microchera cupreiceps) [E]

Several of these small endemic hummingbirds visited the feeders at La Paz Waterfall Gardens and La Cinchona, flashing their white-edged tails as they jostled for position.

STRIPE-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Eupherusa eximia)

One foraging along the verbena hedge near the entrance to the Corso dairy farm showed its namesake tail nicely. This widespread species is found in the foothills and highlands from southern Mexico to Panama.

BLACK-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Eupherusa nigriventris)

Some great encounters with these distinctive little hummingbirds around the feeders at La Paz Waterfall Gardens and La Cinchona, with others at Quelitales and Tapanti.

SCALY-BREASTED HUMMINGBIRD (Phaeochroa cuvierii)

One of these big, plain hummingbirds made repeated visits to the same leafless tree near Tarcoles that our Mangrove Hummingbird was visiting -- complicating things considerably! Its large size and big white tail corners helped to quickly distinguish it.

SNOWY-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Saucerottia edward)

It was truly a last minute save! We'd spent half an hour or so sipping our drinks and watching the feeders at the Mirador Valle del General without seeing this southern specialty. Half the group had already climbed onto the bus for departure when Vernon shouted "SNOWY-BELLIED"! Everybody scuttled back in time to see it perched on a branch right beside the balcony. Sweet! This range-restricted species is only found in Costa Rica and Panama.

RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia tzacatl)

Easily the most common (and numerous!) hummingbird of the tour, seen on all but a couple of days at the highest elevations.

MANGROVE HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia boucardi) [E]

Vernon's secret spot came up aces! A male made repeated visits to a tree near the edge of the mangrove forest at Tarcoles, giving us -- eventually! -- multiple chances to study this endangered Costa Rican endemic. Habitat loss is the biggest problem for the species.

BLUE-CHESTED HUMMINGBIRD (Polyerata amabilis)

Two in the clearing near the start of La Selva's STR trail gave us some nice scope views -- though those blue chests were rather underwhelming. In Costa Rica, this species is found only in the Caribbean lowlands.

CHARMING HUMMINGBIRD (Polyerata decora)

One visited flowers not far from where we found our first Scarlet Macaws and was seen by a few folks -- nice spotting, Gretchen! In Costa Rica, this sister species of the Blue-chested Hummingbird is found only in the Pacific lowlands.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

RUSSET-NAPED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides albiventris)

Two in the pond at Cope's proved almost ridiculously confiding, which allowed for some nice looks -- and photographs. This is one of species that resulted from the split of the former "Gray-necked Wood-Rail".

GRAY-COWLED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus)

And this is the other! We heard a pair chortling from the coffee grove beyond the back wall of the Hotel Bougainvillea our first afternoon, but didn't actually SEE one until we spotted one below the balcony at Mirador Valle del General. It made us work for a view, but I think we all got there in the end.

WHITE-THROATED CRAKE (Laterallus albigularis)

Two rummaged along the edge of a big puddle on the road past the Puerto Viejo police station, seen on the morning we looked there for Great Green Macaws. They were a bit furtive -- regularly ducking out of view -- but with some patience, we all saw them.

Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)

BLACK-NECKED STILT (Himantopus mexicanus)

A trio near the mouth of the Tarcoles strode along the shallow river edge on long pink legs. The birds seen in August are presumably resident; their numbers will be greatly increased beginning in October by migrants from further north.

Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)

BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola) [b]

A handful, still showing traces of their handsome breeding plumage, among the shorebirds near the mouth of the Tarcoles. These are common winter visitors to the Pacific coast.

SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)

Fairly regular, seen in roadside fields on both coasts, in the paddocks at Hacienda Oriente, along the Tarcoles River and in flight over La Quinta. This is a relatively recent arrival to Costa Rica, first recorded in 1997. It's been aided in its range expansion by the clearing of forest throughout Central America.

COLLARED PLOVER (Charadrius collaris)

A couple of individuals scattered along the muddy shores of the Tarcoles River, not far from where it emptied into the sea. The black forehead of this tropical species is distinctive.

SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus) [b]

About a dozen on the mudflats near the mouth of the Tarcoles. These arctic breeders are very common along the Pacific coast in the winter.

Jacanidae (Jacanas)

NORTHERN JACANA (Jacana spinosa)

Scattered birds in roadside wet spots on several days, including a few balancing on vegetation atop a ditch at Hacienda Oriente and others in a marshy area along the Tarcoles.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)

WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus) [b]

Four, looking tall and long-billed, among the roosting birds near the mouth of the Tarcoles. This is a common winter visitor to the Pacific coast.

RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres) [b]

A few pattered along the edges of the sand bar near the mouth of the Tarcoles. This is another winter visitor.

SURFBIRD (Calidris virgata) [b]

One preening among the shorebirds and terns near the mouth of the Tarcoles River was unexpected that early. It's a fairly uncommon passage migrant, and doesn't typically show up until mid-September.

LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla) [b]

Three dozen or so, in small groups, foraged along the edges of the Tarcoles. This is another common migrant along the Pacific coast.

SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER (Limnodromus griseus) [b]

A handful, already in their duller non-breeding plumage, were sprinkled among the other shorebirds near the mouth of the Tarcoles. Their long bills and distinctive "sewing machine" feeding method made them easy to pick out. These are very common on the Pacific coast from August through late May.

SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) [b]

Very common among the mangroves along the Tarcoles, with another along the Rio San Jose and a few on the river winding through the grounds of the Villa Lapas. This is a common and widespread winter visitor throughout Costa Rica -- if by "winter", one includes the period from late July to late May!

WILLET (Tringa semipalmata) [b]

Eight with the pelicans on a sandbar near the mouth of the Tarcoles. Their boldly patterned black and white wings made them easy to pick out in flight. This is a very common winter visitor to the Pacific coast, and a small number of birds are resident through the summer as well.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)

LAUGHING GULL (Leucophaeus atricilla)

A single adult among the terns and shorebirds near the Tarcoles River mouth was unexpected. This is primarily a winter visitor to Costa Rica, though a few birds remain over the summer.

COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)

A single bird among the Royal Terns near the mouth of the Tarcoles was also unexpected, given that these are generally rare during the summer months.

ROYAL TERN (Thalasseus maximus)

Scores preened and snoozed in a shifting mass near the mouth of the Tarcoles.

Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)

SUNBITTERN (Eurypyga helias)

A pair near the sugar factory outside Platanillo showed their lovely plumage -- and fabulously patterned wings -- to perfection as they worked their way along the stream, occasionally flying from rock to rock. Others along the river in the Tuis Valley proved equally obliging.

Ciconiidae (Storks)

WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana)

Small numbers along the Pacific coast, including a flock of eight seen from the coastal highway, a trio soaring above the Tarcoles and a sneaky bird circling with vultures below the mirador up the hill from Villa Lapas that had us thinking we'd found our first King Vulture.

Fregatidae (Frigatebirds)

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens)

Some three dozen or so over the Tarcoles, including a slow-circling, lazily-flapping tornado of them right near the river mouth during our boat trip.

Anhingidae (Anhingas)

ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)

A few stood spread-eagled on mangrove branches along some of the channels of the Tarcoles.

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Nannopterum brasilianum)

Seen on scattered days in the lowlands on both sides of the country, including a few along the Rio San Jose, others below the dam we crossed en route to Tapanti, and a dozen or so festooning a tree along the Tarcoles.

Pelecanidae (Pelicans)

BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis)

A trio glided north along the coast as we headed to Villa Lapas on our first afternoon along the Pacific slope, and more than three dozen others rested on a bar near the mouth of the Tarcoles, seen on our river cruise.

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)

FASCIATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma fasciatum)

One stood stock-still in the middle of the Rio San Jose for several minutes before hopping to another rock (and then another and another) and then flying off down the river. This species is typically found on faster flowing rivers at higher elevations than the next species.

BARE-THROATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma mexicanum)

Singles seen on scattered days along both coasts, often staring intently at the ground in some soggy wet spot along the road.

GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias)

One seen along the edge of the Tarcoles, not far from the river mouth. This is primarily a winter visitor (September - May), but a few are resident year-round.

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)

Scattered individuals in marshy fields and wet spots on both slopes, including a few in the reservoir below the dam on the way to Tapanti and a half dozen or so along the Tarcoles.

SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)

Three or four along the banks of the Tarcoles, seen on our boat trip there. This is a resident species, with numbers greatly bolstered from September to May with visitors from further north.

LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)

Regular in small numbers along the Tarcoles.

CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)

Common throughout, typically hovering around the feet of livestock in roadside fields.

GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens)

One crept around on a log pile below La Selva's suspension bridge one morning, and we found another pair with two fuzzy chicks among some branches along the Tarcoles.

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)

A couple along the Tarcoles.

YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nyctanassa violacea)

Two hunting the mudflats near the mouth of the Tarcoles.

BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius)

A few low in the mangroves edging the Tarcoles River, showing the huge eyes and massive shovel-shaped bills that help to distinguish them.

Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)

WHITE IBIS (Eudocimus albus)

Regular along the Pacific coast, including a few feeding along the creek at Villa Lapas.

GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)

We saw pairs briefly in trees at La Selva -- along the entrance road and near the dining room -- but our best views came in the Tuis Valley, where we found a surprisingly chill pair foraging right in the middle of the track.

ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja)

Pink birds are always easy to identify! We found two of these uncommon residents along the Tarcoles.

Cathartidae (New World Vultures)

KING VULTURE (Sarcoramphus papa)

One soared high over the ridge visible from the mirador above Villa Lapas, making lazy circles -- super spotting, Dave! Its huge size (with a wingspan of up to 7 feet) and striking black and white plumage made it easy to identify, even at that distance.

BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)

Abundant throughout, seen (often in sizable numbers) on all but our first day.

TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)

Equally widespread, though not typically as numerous as the previous species.

Pandionidae (Osprey)

OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)

One along the highway near La Selva was a surprise; they're typically a winter visitor to Costa Rica. We spotted another along the Tarcoles River during our boat trip.

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)

WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)

Single birds on three days: one from the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, another (probably the same bird) down Calle la Mica the next morning and a final one hunting over Hacienda Oriente.

SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)

Sprinklings of these graceful fliers soaring in the highland skies, including some swooping thrillingly close over our heads along the Tapanti park road. They often hunt by plucking prey (insects, small lizards, even fruit) from leafy treetops.

ORNATE HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus ornatus) [*]

We heard one calling from overhead while we birded along Savegre's Los Robles trail, but couldn't find a gap in the canopy where we could actually see it.

DOUBLE-TOOTHED KITE (Harpagus bidentatus)

One perched along La Selva's entrance road preened while we studied it in the scopes. When it lifted its head out of its feathers, we could even see the extra "prongs" on its bill that give it its common name.

PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea)

One over Paraiso Quetzal showed its rusty wing panels nicely -- great spotting, Ed. We had four more circling over the mangroves on our Tarcoles boat trip.

BICOLORED HAWK (Accipiter bicolor)

One in a treetop right over the main building at Rancho definitely put the brakes on the feeder activity until it moved on! We had some lovely scope looks until it did.

COMMON BLACK HAWK (MANGROVE) (Buteogallus anthracinus subtilis)

Three, including one stripey youngster, among the mangroves along the Tarcoles, where they subsist primarily on crabs. Some taxonomists split these Pacific birds, which are shorter-winged than other populations; when split, they're known as Mangrove Black-Hawk.

ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)

A few on scattered days along both slopes, including a calling bird along the Silencio road, one at Tapanti and others along the Pacific coast road. The pale eye of this one quickly separates it from both Gray and Broad-winged hawks.

GRAY HAWK (Buteo plagiatus)

Regular in small numbers throughout, primarily on roadside wires or trees. One near the Puerto Viejo police station gave us a nice opportunity to study it in the scopes.

SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus)

Always in flight, often quite high overhead. All of the birds we saw were light morph.

RED-TAILED HAWK (COSTARICENSIS) (Buteo jamaicensis costaricensis)

One over Hotel Trogon for some, with better looks at another above Savegre as we walked back down the hill. The resident subspecies in Costa Rica (costaricensis) has a rufous belly band.

Strigidae (Owls)

BARE-SHANKED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops clarkii)

WOW!! A very confiding bird along a trail at Santa Elena was a highlight of our visit -- for us and a whole bunch of people who came along and wondered what we were looking at. We enjoyed it for a long time before finally walking away. This uncommon highland species is found from Costa Rica to northwestern Colombia.

PACIFIC SCREECH-OWL (Megascops cooperi) [*]

Arg! We heard one calling (and calling and calling) from a dense tree along the Guacimo road, but just couldn't find an angle where we could actually see it.

CRESTED OWL (Lophostrix cristata)

It was a long, muddy slog through Cope's forest, but our efforts were rewarded with fabulous views of a roosting pair.

SPECTACLED OWL (Pulsatrix perspicillata)

And this one was the icing on the cake! It meant wading down a stream in Cope's forest (with thunder muttering in the distance), but our feet stayed dry and the owl stayed put. Yahoo!

COSTA RICAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium costaricanum)

One near Savegre's Los Robles trailhead got our hike there off to a blazing start. This highland species is another Chiriqui endemic.

FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum)

We heard one tooting from the mangroves while we searched for our Mangrove Hummingbird, but we didn't actually see one until the following day, when we found one along the Guacimo road -- great spotting, Bob! The streaks, rather than spots, on its crown quickly separate it from all other pygmy-owl species in Costa Rica.

MOTTLED OWL (Strix virgata)

One hunting around the lights at the back edge of the garden at Hotel Bougainvillea got our nightbirding off to a good start. It perched repeatedly where we could get it in the scope.

Trogonidae (Trogons)

RESPLENDENT QUETZAL (Pharomachrus mocinno)

WOW!! We timed our arrival at Miriam's to perfection. Four quetzals -- three males and a female -- flicked back and forth through an avocado tree right near the viewing balcony, often posing photogenically on open branches between forays to grab fruits. Apparently, some of the other folks on the balcony had been waiting for hours for the birds to make their appearance.

SLATY-TAILED TROGON (Trogon massena)

Luis spotted our first -- a male sitting high in a dead snag near the entrance to La Selva -- and we found others around Villa Lapas. This is one of the largest of the trogons we can see on this tour.

BLACK-HEADED TROGON (Trogon melanocephalus)

One among the trees near where we searched for Mangrove Hummingbird -- great spotting, Gretchen! We had another on the grounds of Villa Lapas, seen as we made our way back to the main building for breakfast on our last morning there.

BAIRD'S TROGON (Trogon bairdii)

A trio high in the canopy over Carara's Sendero Meandrico made us work for a look -- but finally cooperated in the end. The male's all-white undertail and the lack of a white band between his red belly and dark chest help to separate him from all other red-bellied trogons in Costa Rica. This handsome species is endemic to the lowlands and foothills of the Pacific slope of Costa Rica and western Panama.

GARTERED TROGON (Trogon caligatus)

And this is the smallest of the tour's trogons. A male near the dining room at La Selva proved nicely cooperative, sitting for long minutes in the scope, facing us so we could see his yellow eye ring and finely barred undertail.

BLACK-THROATED TROGON (Trogon rufus)

A male sang from a midstory branch, deep in the forest along La Selva's STR trail -- great spotting, Bob! The glossy green on its upperparts separates this species from other yellow-bellied trogons.

COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris)

A male over the road at Tapanti even called for us a few times. Unlike males of Costa Rica's other trogon species, male Collared Trogons lack a colored eye ring.

COLLARED TROGON (ORANGE-BELLIED) (Trogon collaris aurantiiventris)

A female "Orange-bellied" type sat just off one of the paths at La Paz Waterfall Gardens, changing positions a few times to allow us to examine all sides.

Momotidae (Motmots)

LESSON'S MOTMOT (Momotus lessonii lessonii)

Our first sat just above a stone wall on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, swinging its distinctively racket-tipped tail like a pendulum. We had others around Rancho's feeders (and heard them elsewhere on the property), and regularly in and around Monteverde. This species was split from the former Blue-crowned Motmot complex.

RUFOUS MOTMOT (Baryphthengus martii)

Some great looks at these handsome birds in the Caribbean lowlands, including one sitting on the support wires of the suspension bridge at La Selva.

BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum)

A trio interacting along the Estacion del Rio trail at La Selva gave us some nice looks -- and listens. Their blue chin spot (which we could see in the scopes) helps to distinguish them from the larger Rufous Motmot.

TURQUOISE-BROWED MOTMOT (Eumomota superciliosa)

Restricted to the country's northwest, where we saw them around Carara and Tarcoles, and along the Guacimo road; one in the forest along the Sendero Meandrico was particularly showy. This just might be the prettiest of a handsome family.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)

One flashed over the road and flew (noisily) off down the river as we emerged from our muddy owl trek in Cope's woods, and we saw a couple of others on our Tarcoles boat trip.

AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)

One on a utility wire over the river near Hacienda Oriente, with another at the dam we passed on our way to Tapanti. But our best views came along the Tarcoles -- particularly on our boat trip. The lack of white on its wings helps to separate this species from the similar (but smaller) Green Kingfisher.

GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)

A couple of these smaller kingfishers were seen on our Tarcoles boat trip, perched low in mangroves along the river.

Bucconidae (Puffbirds)

WHITE-WHISKERED PUFFBIRD (Malacoptila panamensis)

Single birds seen on three different days. Since they typically sit for long minutes without moving, we got some super scope studies of these little cuties.

Galbulidae (Jacamars)

RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda)

Our best views probably came along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail on our first morning there, when we found a pair hunting right beside the track. We saw others on La Selva's entrance road, and along Carara's Sendero Meandrico.

Capitonidae (New World Barbets)

RED-HEADED BARBET (Eubucco bourcierii)

We found a golden-headed female along the park road at Tapanti first, then bumped into a pair with a mixed flock later on. These are seriously spectacular birds!

Semnornithidae (Toucan-Barbets)

PRONG-BILLED BARBET (Semnornis frantzii)

Especially nice views of one gobbling bananas at feeders just off the deck at La Cinchona, with others at La Paz Waterfall Gardens and along the trails at Curi-Cancha.

Ramphastidae (Toucans)

NORTHERN EMERALD-TOUCANET (BLUE-THROATED) (Aulacorhynchus prasinus caeruleogularis)

Two over the trail at La Paz Waterfall Garden gave us our first good looks, but the pair at La Cinchona's feeders were even closer. They proved particularly common in the mountains around Monteverde, where we found them at Calandria, Curi-Cancha and right around the Fonda Vela.

COLLARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus torquatus)

Regular in fruiting trees around La Selva with others along the Tuis Valley track, but our best views came at Rancho, where a little gang regularly raided the fruit feeders each morning.

FIERY-BILLED ARACARI (Pteroglossus frantzii)

Two in some tall Eucalyptus trees behind the San Isidro high school's playing field stopped us in our tracks on our way out of town. This is the Pacific coast replacement of the Caribbean slope's Collared Aracari -- with an even more colorful beak.

YELLOW-THROATED TOUCAN (CHESTNUT-MANDIBLED) (Ramphastos ambiguus swainsonii)

Common around La Selva (including a gang in fruiting trees near the start of the entrance drive) with others at Carara. Their yelping calls were a regular part of the lowland tour soundtrack. These former "Chestnut-mandibled" toucans were lumped with Black-mandibled in 2010 after DNA studies showed only minor differences between them.

KEEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos sulfuratus)

Very common in the Caribbean lowlands plus a few in fruiting trees around Fonda Vela. Their frog-like call was also a regular part of the tour soundtrack -- at least for the first week.

Picidae (Woodpeckers)

ACORN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes formicivorus)

Common in the highlands, including rowdy visitors at Miriam's feeders and a noisy gang near the start of Savegre's Los Robles trail.

GOLDEN-NAPED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes chrysauchen)

One along Sendero Meandrico at Carara showed the golden nape and black back that distinguish it from the next species. Its range doesn't overlap at all with the Black-cheeked Woodpecker. It's found only on the Pacific slope from central Costa Rica into western Panama.

BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes pucherani)

Common and widespread in the Caribbean lowlands and foothills, including regulars visiting the feeders at La Quinta and Rancho.

RED-CROWNED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes rubricapillus)

One with the Fiery-billed Aracaris we spotted behind a sports field in San Isidro del General. The birds we saw further north -- around Tarcoles and Villa Lapas were likely hybrids between Red-crowned and Hoffman's woodpeckers; reportedly, most of the birds found along the coast between Carara and Quepos are hybrids.

HOFFMANN'S WOODPECKER (Melanerpes hoffmannii)

Seen on about half the days of the tour, including a female at Donde Cope's, where it was decidedly less unexpected. This species used to be confined to the Pacific slope and Central Valley, but is steadily expanding to the east.

HAIRY WOODPECKER (Dryobates villosus)

One of these distinctively "dirty" birds (with dusty gray underparts) with a mixed flock along the track above Savegre Mountain Lodge. The subspecies in Costa Rica -- extimus -- is found only in Costa Rica and western Panama and is smaller and darker than birds we see in North America.

SMOKY-BROWN WOODPECKER (Dryobates fumigatus) [*]

We heard one calling at Santa Elena, not far from where we found our first Prong-billed Barbets, but never actually laid eyes on it.

PALE-BILLED WOODPECKER (Campephilus guatemalensis)

One along the Sendero Tres Rios at La Selva, and another on the grounds of Villa Lapas, where we got good looks at its all-red head. The loud double-knock drum of this big woodpecker is distinctive.

LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)

One of these big woodpeckers along the road near the Puerto Viejo police station showed nicely the striped face pattern that helps to distinguish it from the previous species. We saw others well at Rancho (including one clearing out a previously used nest hole), Tarcoles and along the Guacimo road.

CINNAMON WOODPECKER (Celeus loricatus)

Finding this and the next species one right after the other along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail was a real treat -- particularly given they were both at eye-level! We found another along the Rio San Jose. This one is smaller than the Chestnut-colored, with less of a crest and a paler belly.

CHESTNUT-COLORED WOODPECKER (Celeus castaneus)

The blondish crest and pale head of this one made it immediately apparent that we were no longer looking at a Cinnamon Woodpecker. Like the previous species, in Costa Rica, this one is restricted to the Caribbean lowlands.

RUFOUS-WINGED WOODPECKER (Piculus simplex)

Lovely views of a pair along La Selva's entrance road. This uncommon species doesn't show much rufous on its closed wing -- little more than a hint of orange and black along the very edge of the primaries -- but the combination of olive-green back, speckled chest and red crown (nape in the female) is diagnostic.

GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus)

One from the balcony at Rancho, seen hitching its way along nearby branches, with the distinctive squeal of another heard in the forest of Curi-Cancha.

Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)

LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans) [*]

We heard the distinctive laughing calls of this herp specialist at Rancho several times, but never close.

COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur semitorquatus)

Arg! A white morph adult, seen briefly on a branch in the forest up the hill from Villa Lapas's river trail, departed all too quickly -- great spotting, Bob! This secretive bird is the largest of Costa Rica's forest-falcons.

CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara plancus)

A few scattered birds, including one perched atop a communications tower visible from the gardens at Hotel Bougainvillea. The others we saw were patrolling the roadways; they eat a lot of carrion and have learned to check regularly for roadkill.

YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Daptrius chimachima)

Regular on the Pacific slope and in the Central Valley, including a pair on rooftops right near the Hotel Bougainvillea. This is another species that only arrived in Costa Rica in the early 1970s, as forests were cleared for pastureland.

BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)

Seen on a few days on both slopes, with our best views coming on one morning's pre-breakfast walk at Villa Lapas, where we found a cooperative bird perched in a dead tree along the river trail. We had others along the road near the Puerto Viejo police station and on our Tarcoles boat trip.

Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)

BARRED PARAKEET (Bolborhynchus lineola)

Big noisy flocks of hundreds swept back and forth along the Savegre valley as dusk fell over Miriam's cafe. This is primarily a highland species.

ORANGE-CHINNED PARAKEET (Brotogeris jugularis)

Common in the lowlands of both slopes, with especially nice studies of the birds at Cope's feeders -- where they were close enough we could examine their tiny orange chin spots and handsome bronzy wing coverts even without binoculars.

BROWN-HOODED PARROT (Pyrilia haematotis)

Our best views probably came at Quelitales, where we found a big group feeding in a tree well up the hill. It took some patience -- and some "where's Waldo" scope work -- but we got there in the end! We had others in flight over La Selva's STR trail and at Fonda Vela. Their bright red "armpits" are diagnostic.

WHITE-CROWNED PARROT (Pionus senilis)

Small numbers on scattered days, including a confiding trio along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa (plus another in a treetop near the dining room). We heard one calling in the Tuis valley and spotted another trio in the same trees as our Fiery-billed Aracaris in San Isidro.

RED-LORED PARROT (Amazona autumnalis)

More than a dozen foraged in a big fruiting tree near the start of La Selva's entrance drive, giving us a nice chance to study them in the scopes. We saw others regularly around the reserve, and saw a few more in flight over Braulio Carrillo.

YELLOW-NAPED PARROT (Amazona auropalliata)

A trio seen on our Tarcoles boat trip. Unfortunately, this big parrot is highly desired by the pet trade, which has led to steep declines in its numbers. It is now considered to be critically endangered, with fewer than 2500 adults thought to be left in the wild.

WHITE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona albifrons)

Two in a treetop along the Guacimo road, where we could clearly see the white foreheads which give them their common and scientific names. In Costa Rica, this smaller Amazon is typically only found in the Pacific northwest, and occasionally in the western part of the Central Valley.

MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa)

A couple with the big Red-lored Parrot flock, feeding in some trees near the start of La Selva's entrance road, with others elsewhere on the reserve. This big parrot is fairly plain, except for its big white eye ring.

SULPHUR-WINGED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura hoffmanni)

A little group of six zipped past while we birded the trails above Savegre Mountain Lodge. On our tours, we seldom see this highland species perched.

OLIVE-THROATED PARAKEET (AZTEC) (Eupsittula nana astec)

A chattering flock of nine flew past as we birded along the road near the Puerto Viejo police station. The species is restricted to the Caribbean lowlands, though the subspecies found in Costa Rica (astec) is found from southeastern Mexico to extreme western Panama.

GREAT GREEN MACAW (Ara ambiguus)

Unfortunately, we never got a great look at these rare macaws. We "saw" (and certainly heard!) five fly over while we birded along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail, though it was only in glimpses through thick canopy. A few folks got a quick look at another four along the road on the day we transferred from La Quinta to Rancho.

SCARLET MACAW (Ara macao)

Our best views came along the Pacific coast road as we made our way from the mountains to Villa Lapas. We found at least a dozen feeding in fruiting trees just off the highway, and the combination of our scopes and general excitement soon attracted a bunch of other folks as well. We saw -- and heard -- others daily in the Pacific lowlands, as well as one day on the drive to La Selva on the Caribbean slope, where they're far less common.

CRIMSON-FRONTED PARAKEET (Psittacara finschi)

Regular throughout the first half of the tour, including dozens whizzing by in screeching flocks over San Jose.

Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)

BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus)

Three in a brushy area along Carara's Sendero Meandrico, where the stripey male serenaded us with quivering tail.

BLACK-CROWNED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus atrinucha)

Two seen well along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail, with another pair on the STR trail there. This was formerly part of the Western Slaty-Antshrike complex.

BLACK-HOODED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus bridgesi)

Very common along Carara's Sendero Meandrico, where we had some fine looks at them; we had others along the river trail at Villa Lapas. This species is endemic to the lowlands and foothills of the Pacific slope, from Costa Rica into western Panama.

RUSSET ANTSHRIKE (Thamnistes anabatinus)

A trio worked along branches near the platform over Rancho's hummingbird pools, and we saw another with a mixed flock on Carara's Quebrada Bonita.

PLAIN ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus mentalis)

A little group of three worked in the understory of the forest at Curi-Cancha, part of a big mixed flock.

STREAK-CROWNED ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus striaticeps)

A bird seen by Vernon and some of the group with a mixed flock at Curi-Cancha appeared to be this species; it had streaks on head and chest, so clearly wasn't a Plain Antvireo!

CHECKER-THROATED STIPPLETHROAT (Epinecrophylla fulviventris)

One with a mixed flock along the Tuis Valley road, close enough that we could see the checkers on its throat with our binoculars. The common name of this species was changed from "antwren" to "stipplethroat" when the bird was moved out of the genus Myrmotherula.

SLATY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula schisticolor)

At least one with a small mixed flock near the platform overlooking Rancho's hummingbird pools, with another, showier pair with a mixed flock at Santa Elena.

DOT-WINGED ANTWREN (Microrhopias quixensis)

A pair with a mixed flock along Carara's Quebrada Bonita trail. The female's rusty belly is unique among Costa Rica's antwrens, and the male's broad white wingbar, speckled shoulder and broad white tail tips distinguish him from the others.

DUSKY ANTBIRD (Cercomacroides tyrannina)

As usual, we heard far more of these than we saw: at La Selva, Rancho and Villa Lapas. We did finally connect with a pair low in scrub along the river trail at Villa Lapas -- where we heard at least another two pairs.

CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Poliocrania exsul)

A calling bird slowly made its way towards us along the Estacion del Rio trail at La Selva, eventually approaching to within mere feet. That blue eye ring is certainly eye-catching! We had others on the grounds of Villa Lapas and on Carara's Sendero Meandrico. Their whistled song is easily imitated -- and it's nearly impossible to resist doing so!

DULL-MANTLED ANTBIRD (Sipia laemosticta)

One made several visits to one of Rancho's hummingbird pools -- of course, the hardest one to see, thanks to overhanging vegetation. This dark, red-eyed species is typically found along streams and wet forest ravines.

ZELEDON'S ANTBIRD (ZELEDON'S) (Hafferia zeledoni zeledoni)

Arg! One made a fleeting appearance along one of the trails at Santa Elena, seen well by a few and not at all by others. This was split from the former Immaculate Antbird complex.

SPOTTED ANTBIRD (Hylophylax naevioides)

Two along the trail at Braulio Carrillo were a highlight of a mostly quiet morning, working for long minutes low near the trail and right in the open. In Costa Rica, this species is found only in the Caribbean foothills.

Grallariidae (Antpittas)

SCALED ANTPITTA (Grallaria guatimalensis)

Jeff spotted this charmer along one of the Rancho Naturalista hill trails, while out with one of the lodge guides on a day he stayed back.

STREAK-CHESTED ANTPITTA (Hylopezus perspicillatus)

After hearing at least four or five along Carara's Quebrada Bonita trail, we FINALLY tracked down one of the singers. But he definitely made us work for a view!

THICKET ANTPITTA (Myrmothera dives) [*]

We heard one whistling from the far side of the Tuis River as we made our way up the valley.

Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos)

SILVERY-FRONTED TAPACULO (Scytalopus argentifrons)

We heard the staccato song of this furtive species at Tapanti and Paraiso Quetzal, and most got an astoundingly close -- though unfortunately brief -- view of one that bounced along the edge of the trail at Santa Elena.

Formicariidae (Antthrushes)

BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH (Formicarius analis)

Two strode along the edge of an army ant swarm at Villa Lapas, looking a bit like little bantam chickens as they gathered great mustaches of insect prey.

Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)

SCALY-THROATED LEAFTOSSER (Sclerurus guatemalensis)

This, the only lowland leaftosser in Costa Rica, definitely did not play nice. Though it tossed its leaves quite emphatically (and the motion caught our eye along the Villa Lapas river trail), it never really popped out into the open where we could see much more than occasional too-quick glimpses.

GRAY-THROATED LEAFTOSSER (Sclerurus albigularis)

This middle elevation species, on the other hand, was amazingly showy -- after we'd spent long minutes shuffling back and forth along a trail at Curi-Cancha, trying to find the perfect vantage point.

OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus)

After hearing the high-pitched, falling trill of this small species at Fonda Vela and Santa Elena, we finally connected visually with at least three at Curi-Cancha on the last morning of the tour. Unlike the other small woodcreeper on this tour (Wedge-billed), this one looks two-toned: gray on the head end, rufous on the back end.

PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)

One crept up a tree trunk along La Selva's entrance road, giving us a quick (but good) look at its plain plumage and black mustache stripe.

WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus)

One of these tiny woodcreepers worked at eye level in a big tree along La Selva's entrance road, not far from the gate, and we saw others at Braulio, Rancho and Carara. This is one of Costa Rica's smallest woodcreepers.

NORTHERN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae)

Our best looks came at Villa Lapas on our last pre-breakfast walk there, when we found one clinging to a tree trunk very close to the river trail. We had others at Calandria and Curi-Cancha. This big lowland woodcreeper typically attends ant swarms.

COCOA WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus susurrans)

We found our first along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail, and followed that up with another in Cope's garden the following afternoon. That was it for sightings, though we did hear them on a further three days. This is fairly common in the wet lowlands and foothills of both slopes.

SPOTTED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius)

One, seen by many, on one of the big trees near the viewing platform for Rancho's hummingbird pools with good looks at another at Tapanti. The round, buffy spots (rather than streaks) on its underside, and its bold, pale eye ring, help to distinguish this large woodcreeper from others.

STREAK-HEADED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes souleyetii)

Our first were two crawling up trunks and branches on the track beside the Rio San Jose, and we saw others at Rancho, in the Tuis valley and on our Tarcoles boat trip. Its bill is paler and more curved than the larger but similarly-plumaged Cocoa Woodcreeper.

SPOT-CROWNED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes affinis)

Restricted to the tour's highest locations, with some fine views of one foraging on the trunks of some big trees at Hotel Trogon, and others along the Quebrada trail on the hill above Savegre Mountain Lodge. This is the highland replacement of the previous species.

PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus)

One, doing its best chickadee imitation (clinging, upside down, from the bottom of a tangle overhead) at the start of La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail, right near the soccer field.

SCALY-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Anabacerthia variegaticeps)

An adult with a couple of youngsters in tow in a mixed flock along the park road at Tapanti.

LINEATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla subalaris)

Nowhere near as cooperative as the previous species, though it was part of the same mixed flock; this one lurked in denser growth along the Tapanti road, only popping out into the open for the briefest of views.

BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (HYPOPHAEUS) (Automolus ochrolaemus hypophaeus)

Two showed very well as they twitched around the platform at the hummingbird pools. This has recently been split; this and another Central American subspecies are now known as the Fawn-throated Foliage-gleaner. The smaller South American subspecies were split off as Ochre-throated Foliage-gleaner.

SPOTTED BARBTAIL (Premnoplex brunnescens)

One with a mixed flock at Tapanti was quite cooperative, foraging on thin mossy trunks at eye level right beside the road. We had at least three others with a big mixed flock at Santa Elena.

RUDDY TREERUNNER (Margarornis rubiginosus)

Some great encounters with this frenetic little branch-crawler on the trails above Savegre Mountain Lodge, where we found more than a dozen. We had others at Santa Elena and Curi-Cancha, typically with mixed flocks.

RED-FACED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca erythrops)

Another common species in the foothills and highlands, with some satisfying close encounters along the park road at Tapanti, and others at Santa Elena and Curi-Cancha. They seemed to be upside down as often as right side up!

Pipridae (Manakins)

LONG-TAILED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia linearis)

Though we encountered them several places around Carara and Monteverde, they proved surprisingly tough to actually get a look at! Some of the group got fine views of a male along the road above Villa Lapas -- particularly when he popped out to sit right in the open for a few all-too-brief moments. But our best views probably came at Calandaria, where we found a handful and got to hear the distinctive calls of duetting males trying to attract a female.

WHITE-RUFFED MANAKIN (Corapipo altera)

After hearing the high-pitched "preeet" of this foothill/highland species at Braulio Carrillo, we (some of us, anyway) got a look at a male perched across the gully from the platform at Rancho's hummingbird pools.

VELVETY MANAKIN (Lepidothrix velutina velutina)

This species has been split from the former Blue-crowned Manakin, and we'd left the wrong species on the tour checklist; it should have been this one. We saw a striking male (far too briefly) above the same little stream in Carara where we found our Red-capped Manakins.

WHITE-COLLARED MANAKIN (Manacus candei)

We had a female along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa, but our best views came on a side trail off Rancho's driveway, where we found a very cooperative -- and very photogenic -- little male sitting low in the undergrowth. This is the most common and widespread of Central America's manakins.

ORANGE-COLLARED MANAKIN (Manacus aurantiacus)

A group of young males practiced their dance steps -- complete with wing snaps -- in some saplings along Carara's Sendero Meandrico.

RED-CAPPED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra mentalis)

A pair bathed in a little stream along Carara's Quebrada Bonita trail, returning again and again to the same little twigs between splashes. The contrast of the red against the black of the male was pretty spectacular!

Cotingidae (Cotingas)

RUFOUS PIHA (Lipaugus unirufus) [*]

We heard the distinctive whistle of this species as we birded along Carara's Quebrada Bonita trail, but it was never close.

THREE-WATTLED BELLBIRD (Procnias tricarunculatus)

An afternoon's wander through the dry forest at Calandaria eventually turned up trumps when we heard several singing males. Some expert tracking by Vernon and Luis finally brought us right to the tree where one was shouting challenges, giving us some great views -- and photographs!

SNOWY COTINGA (Carpodectes nitidus)

A female at the top of a small tree along the edge of clearing near La Selva's dining room showed very well in the scope for those who happened to be close when she was discovered. Unfortunately, she flew off before everyone got out of the bathrooms -- or abandoned their coffee!

Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)

BLACK-CROWNED TITYRA (Tityra inquisitor)

A pair in a treetop along the Guacimo road. This is by far the less common of Costa Rica's tityras.

MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata)

Regular in small numbers on both slopes, with especially good views of a pair gathering insects off the roof of some of the buildings at Fonda Vela. The piggy, grunting calls of the tityras are distinctive.

NORTHERN SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis veraepacis)

One calling along Carara's Quebrada Bonita trail -- a distinctive whistle often transcribed as "Hey Ricky!" -- flew in and perched at eye level right near the trail when we whistled back.

BARRED BECARD (Pachyramphus versicolor)

A pair with a mixed flock we encountered on our walk down the hill at Savegre worked through trees right over the road at one of the big hairpin turns. This highland species is fairly uncommon, so it was nice to get such a good look.

CINNAMON BECARD (Pachyramphus cinnamomeus)

One, carrying a big katydid or grasshopper, made its way cautiously to a hanging nest in a tree at Rancho Bajo, keeping a watchful eye on us the whole time.

WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus)

Good looks at a male over the track in the Tuis Valley. His dark lores and black back help to separate him from the less common Black-and-white Becard.

ROSE-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus aglaiae)

A pair swirled through the trees over our heads near the town of Tarcoles, where we found our Mangrove Hummingbird. Males of the subspecies found in Costa Rica don't have pink throats.

Oxyruncidae (Sharpbill, Royal Flycatcher, and Allies)

ROYAL FLYCATCHER (NORTHERN) (Onychorhynchus coronatus mexicanus)

One along the little creek bed near the ant swarm at Villa Lapas was one of the many highlights of that morning's walk. This species is widespread from Mexico right down into Brazil, but isn't common (or easy to see!) anywhere.

RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Terenotriccus erythrurus)

Scattered birds with mixed flocks in the lowlands and foothills of both slopes.

SULPHUR-RUMPED FLYCATCHER (Myiobius sulphureipygius aureatus)

One along the edge of the river trail at Villa Lapas gave us multiple opportunities to see that distinctively pale rump -- and the tawny chest that helps distinguish it from the very similar Black-tailed Flycatcher -- as it flitted from branch to branch.

Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)

STUB-TAILED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus cancrominus) [*]

We heard the distinctive little three-note call of one on our first outing along the river trail at Villa Lapas, but could never locate the bird itself.

WHITE-THROATED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus mystaceus) [*]

Another heard-only spadebill, this time in the dense forest of Santa Elena, not far from where we spotted our Silvery-fronted Tapaculo.

GOLDEN-CROWNED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus coronatus)

One of these little cuties posed nicely on a succession of little saplings along the river trail at Villa Lapas on our second morning's walk there.

OLIVE-STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes olivaceus)

At least three with mixed flocks along the park road in Tapanti. The combination of big white spot behind the eye and streaky breast quickly separates this one from other small flycatchers in Costa Rica.

OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus)

One along La Selva's STR trail for many, but our best looks probably came at Rancho's hummingbird pools, where one came in repeatedly to splash in one of the pools.

SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon superciliaris)

At least three seen well along the track through the Tuis valley, accompanying mixed flocks.

SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus pileatus)

Super views of one working low along the track in the Tuis valley, showing well its black-spangled orange crest. We heard the distinctive calls of others along the Tapanti park road.

NORTHERN BENTBILL (Oncostoma cinereigulare)

It took some work, but we finally all got views of a couple of these little flycatchers on the hilly road above Villa Lapas. Plumage-wise, they're not much to look at, but their distinctively bent bill tip -- which looks a bit like the bird flew into a window and damaged it -- is unique.

SLATE-HEADED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus sylvia)

Three or four individuals along Carara's Sendero Meandrico had us trotting back and forth along the trail in several places, trying to get a better view. Though common, they can be notoriously difficult to get a good look at, given they prefer to lurk in dense vegetation. I think we all got there in the end!

COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)

This handsome little species, on the other hand, can be gratifyingly showy. We found them regularly in the lowlands and foothills of both coast, with especially nice views of one in flowering bushes near La Selva's dining room and of another on the grounds of Villa Lapas.

EYE-RINGED FLATBILL (Rhynchocyclus brevirostris)

One hunting along La Selva's Arriera Zonpopa trail showed nicely the bold pale eye ring and wide, flat bill that gives it its common name. We found another bird, even closer, near the viewing platform over the Rancho hummingbird pools.

YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens)

One with a mixed flock along the track through the Tuis valley, close enough we could clearly see its distinctively pale eye, with another on the grounds of Villa Lapas. This one has recently been renamed Yellow-olive Flatbill.

YELLOW TYRANNULET (Capsiempis flaveola)

One along the Rio San Jose, in the scrubby brush this species prefers. They're found in the wet lowlands of both slopes.

GREENISH ELAENIA (Myiopagis viridicata)

We found one of these fairly drab little flycatchers along Carara's Quebrada Bonita trail -- where some even caught a glimpse of its seldom seen yellow crown spot -- with another along the river trail at Villa Lapas. In Costa Rica, this species is found only on the Pacific slope.

YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)

Singles and pairs in several of the more open habitats we visited, with some especially nice views of them along the Silencio road -- where one showed its white crown spot as it shouted challenges with its crest raised -- and of another sharing branches with a Mistletoe Tyrannulet at Fonda Vela.

MOUNTAIN ELAENIA (Elaenia frantzii)

One near the parking lot at Freddo Fresas. This highland fruit-eater is typically found at forest edges.

TORRENT TYRANNULET (Serpophaga cinerea)

One bounced across boulders in the stream below the Virgen del Socorro bridge, seen by some before it vanished around a bend. Fortunately for those who missed the first one, we spotted a much more obliging pair hunting from the big boulders edging the Orosi River, seen from the bridge while we waited for the Vernon and Luis to reorganize the roof rack so we could get the bus across to Tapanti!

MISTLETOE TYRANNULET (Zimmerius parvus)

Very common in the lowlands and foothills, with some good looks at one near the parking area at Rancho and at others with mixed flocks in the Tuis Valley and Curi-Cancha. This was split from the former Paltry Tyrannulet.

TAWNY-CHESTED FLYCATCHER (Aphanotriccus capitalis)

Surprisingly tough this trip, with a couple that FINALLY showed themselves by the stream in the Tuis valley, after we'd slithered our way down through a pasture to get closer. Because of its small world range -- only from eastern Nicaragua to northern Costa Rica -- this little flycatcher is considered vulnerable to extinction.

TUFTED FLYCATCHER (Mitrephanes phaeocercus)

Especially nice views of one hunting in a tree-fall clearing along Savegre's Quebrada trail, in the same area where we found our Black-cheeked Warblers. We had others on the grounds of Hotel Trogon, in Santa Elena NP and at La Paz Waterfall Gardens.

NORTHERN TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus bogotensis)

Our best views came along the Silencio road, where one hunted from nearby tree branches and utility wires; we had another along the road near the Puerto Viejo police station. This widespread tropical species has shorter primaries than do the North American pewees that migrate through Costa Rica on their way to and from points south. A mostly orange lower mandible, dark crown and pale loral spot also help with its ID.

YELLOWISH FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flavescens)

Small numbers in the highlands, including a few with the mixed flocks we encountered along the Tapanti park road, some in the lovely oak forest above Savegre Mountain Lodge, and others at Curi-Cancha. The golden color of this one -- and its bold white eye ring -- make it hard to misidentify.

BLACK-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax atriceps)

At least four of these highland flycatchers in Los Quetzales NP, hunting from the highest point of trees and bushes along the Providencia road.

BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans)

Regular on the first half of the tour, particularly in the Caribbean foothills. This species is seldom found far from water.

LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus)

One, without the long tail streamers that give the species its name, on a leafless snag in La Selva's residential area.

BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus)

We heard the distinctively maniacal laugh of this big flycatcher at Rancho, Carara and on the hill above Villa Lapas before finally catching up with the bird itself along the Villa Lapas river trail. It played hard to get for a bit before finally posing nicely in the open, where we could get a look at its streaky belly, yellow rump patch and long, hook-tipped bill.

RUFOUS MOURNER (Rhytipterna holerythra)

The one that smacked into the window of our bus at Freddo Fresas (and then retreated to nearby bushes to sit for a while) was a surprise -- found much higher in altitude than the species normally occurs.

DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer)

Far more frequently heard than seen -- on four days, in the lowlands and foothills of both slopes. Our only sighting of this widespread species was along La Selva's STR trail; good spotting, Dave!

PANAMA FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus panamensis)

Two among the mangroves on our Tarcoles boat trip. Unlike Costa Rica's other Myiarchus flycatchers, this one lacks any rufous in its wing.

GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)

Missed only on a single day, in the highest mountains. Otherwise, these big, noisy flycatchers were common throughout -- particularly hunting from roadside wires.

BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)

Also quite common, but sometimes heard and not seen; their whiny rattle is distinctive. We did get multiple good looks at the big, heavy beaks that help distinguish them from the previous species.

SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis)

Another abundant species, often (as their name suggests) in small, noisy groups. The regular gang around the parking lot at La Quinta gave us particularly good opportunity for close study.

GRAY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes granadensis)

Regular in the lowlands of the Caribbean slope, including a photogenic trio near the start of La Selva's entrance road. We also had them on the Pacific slope at Villa Lapas, where one was not at all happy with its reflection in a parked bus's windshield.

WHITE-RINGED FLYCATCHER (Conopias albovittatus)

Two at the top of one of the big trees near the start of La Selva's entrance road got our first morning walk there off to a good start. Their white supercilium meets on the nape, unlike the shorter supercilia of the Social Flycatcher.

GOLDEN-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes hemichrysus)

Two, giving their distinctive "squeak toy" calls, at La Paz Waterfall Gardens on our post-lunch walk. This mid-elevation species is found from Costa Rica into western Panama.

SULPHUR-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes luteiventris)

Two, also giving their classic squeak toy calls, along the track in the Tuis valley, with a couple of others around the buildings at Fonda Vela. The thick malar stripe -- and the yellow belly -- help to separate this one from the similar Streaked Flycatcher.

TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)

Abundant throughout -- though somehow, we managed to miss it on a couple of days!

Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)

RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis)

One sang from moss-bedecked branches in the oaks along Los Robles trail, high above Savegre Mountain Lodge.

TAWNY-CROWNED GREENLET (Tunchiornis ochraceiceps)

A couple of these hyperactive little vireos flicked through saplings along the river trail at Villa Lapas, briefly distracting us from our search for spadebills.

LESSER GREENLET (Pachysylvia decurtata)

Best seen in a big mixed flock along the track through the Tuis valley and in another mixed flock on the hillside above Villa Lapas. These little vireos are common in the lowlands on both slopes, but are far more regularly heard than seen!

MANGROVE VIREO (Vireo pallens)

With some patience -- and some ace boat handling by our captain -- we all got a look at a pair of these drab little vireos as they flicked through mangroves along the Tarcoles.

YELLOW-WINGED VIREO (Vireo carmioli)

Our best views of this highland species came along Savegre's Quebrada trail, where we found a trio with a mixed flock. We had another near the parking lot at Freddo Fresas.

BROWN-CAPPED VIREO (Vireo leucophrys)

One with a mixed flock along the Tapanti park road, and a trio of others with a mixed flock on Savegre's Quebrada trail.

Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)

WHITE-THROATED MAGPIE-JAY (Calocitta formosa)

A small, noisy group along the Guacimo road gave us some good views as they rowed along the roadside and called from treetops.

BROWN JAY (Psilorhinus morio)

Common in the foothill on both slopes, with some fine studies of confiding birds around Rancho's feeders and at Fonda Vela.

Hirundinidae (Swallows)

BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)

By far the most abundant swallow of the trip, missing only from the lowest of the lowlands (i.e. around La Selva and Carara/Villa Lapas) and sometimes (as with the flock coursing over the hillsides at Hotel Trogon) in huge numbers.

NORTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx serripennis)

A handful perched on the twigs of a dead snag at the edge of the Tarcoles, swirling briefly into the air as our boat went past. The brown (rather than buffy) wash on their chest and uniformly dark back help to separate them from their southern cousins.

SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)

A few flew back and forth (amid dozens of Blue-and-white Swallows) against a hillside along the Silencio road, showing their pale rumps as they went.

GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)

Scattered birds in the lowlands with particularly nice studies of one on a wire near the police station in Puerto Viejo.

MANGROVE SWALLOW (Tachycineta albilinea)

Nice studies of this handsome tropical species on our Tarcoles boat trip -- including a quartet that accompanied us for part of the journey. This species is found around water, particularly (as its name suggests) in areas of mangrove forest.

BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)

A few folks spotted one along the Silencio road and others saw one on our Tarcoles boat trip. This winter visitor was just starting to arrive from points north.

Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)

LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus)

We heard the distinctive "fingers up the comb" trill of this species on a couple of days -- from the forest around the clearing at Rancho Bajo and (frustratingly elusive!) in a vine tangle right in front of us along Carara's Sendero Meandrico.

WHITE-BROWED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila bilineata)

One with a mixed flock in the Tuis Valley showed very well as it twitched back and forth through roadside trees. This species was formerly considered to be a subspecies of the Tropical Gnatcatcher.

WHITE-LORED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila albiloris)

A male along the Guacimo road showed the black cap of his breeding plumage. In winter, he'll also show a white brow, but far narrower than that of the previous species.

Troglodytidae (Wrens)

SCALY-BREASTED WREN (WHISTLING) (Microcerculus marginatus luscinia)

We first heard the slow, clear, descending whistles of this supreme skulker around Rancho's hummingbird pools, then heard others on the grounds of the Villa Lapas, and along the road above the hotel.

HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon)

Very common throughout, with particularly nice views of birds on the roofs of several of the buildings at Fonda Vela. As usual, we heard far more of these than we saw! The subspecies found in Costa Rica (intermedius in most of the country, inquietus in the extreme south) are both part of the "Southern House Wren" complex.

OCHRACEOUS WREN (Troglodytes ochraceus)

Singles with mixed flocks in the highlands at La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Tapanti, Quetzal National Park, Santa Elena, and Curi-Cancha.

TIMBERLINE WREN (Thryorchilus browni)

Wow! These must have been the easiest Timberline Wrens ever recorded on this tour -- a little family group of four that flitted along the roadside in Quetzal National Park, in plain view for nearly a minute!

RUFOUS-NAPED WREN (Campylorhynchus rufinucha)

Particularly nice looks at a noisy gang of four on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea our first afternoon, with a trio of others the next morning along Calle de Mica. We also saw them in the Pacific northwest: along Carara's Sendero Meandrico, at Villa Lapas and along the Guacimo road.

RUFOUS-BREASTED WREN (Pheugopedius rutilus)

At least four along Carara's Sendero Meandrico, where they made us work hard for a look, and we had another pair in a treeline along the Guacimo road. Eventually, I think everyone connected with one or more of these handsome wrens, which tend to stay higher up in trees. Though generally found in foothills and middle elevations, they reach sea level around Carara.

BLACK-THROATED WREN (Pheugopedius atrogularis)

Two around the Rancho moth sheet proved surprisingly confiding, allowing some good looks. This skulky species is far more regularly heard than seen.

BANDED WREN (Thryophilus pleurostictus)

One twitched through a hedge beside the Guacimo road. In Costa Rica, this species is restricted to the dry Pacific northwest.

RUFOUS-AND-WHITE WREN (Thryophilus rufalbus)

Three found in various places along Carara's Sendero Meandrico were challenging -- seen well by some and not at all by others. A pair outside some of the rooms at Fonda Vela proved more cooperative, as they were more easily squeaked into the open. Their wonderful tooting, trilling duet was a regular part of the Monteverde soundtrack.

STRIPE-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus thoracicus)

We heard these sulkers on several days before we finally connected with a pair in the Tuis valley. Their heavily streaked throat and breast quickly distinguish them from all other wrens found in Costa Rica.

CABANIS'S WREN (Cantorchilus modestus)

Two crept through brushy vegetation in the garden of the Hotel Bougainvillea, and we heard others chortling from a garden along Calle de Mica the following morning. This species was split from the former Plain Wren complex.

RIVERSIDE WREN (Cantorchilus semibadius)

Two along the edge of the stream at Villa Lapas proved to be a bit of a challenge as they worked through dense underbrush, but I think everybody got a glimpse or two in the end. This is another range-restricted species, found only in Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama.

BAY WREN (Cantorchilus nigricapillus)

One skulking along the edge of the road at Virgen del Socorro was definitely less than cooperative. Fortunately, we found a much more obliging bird low along the track in the Tuis valley. This species is almost always found near water.

WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucosticta)

Regular in the Caribbean lowlands and foothills, though far more often heard than seen. We did have good views of a busy pair around the Rancho moth sheet, where they gleaned smaller prey from nearby leaves and vines.

GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys)

We heard the rollicking song of this short-tailed wren (the highland replacement of the previous species) at La Paz Waterfall Garden, and Bruce spotted one at Quelitales, but it took until we got to the true highlands of the Savegre valley for most of the gang to get a view. These understory wrens proved particularly common on the grounds of Hotel Trogon, with others on the trails above Savegre. We got into their range again around Monteverde, where we found them at Santa Elena and Curi-Cancha.

SONG WREN (Cyphorhinus phaeocephalus)

WOW!! Two on a hillside along the Braulio Carrillo trail posed repeatedly in the open, belting out their appropriately musical duet from the ground or very low perches. This is a species we only occasionally see on this tour.

Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)

TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus gilvus)

Our first were a quartet bouncing around on the roof of a building across the street from the Hotel Bougainvillea. We saw others at Hacienda Oriente and along the Pacific coast highway. Field guides published as recently as 2007 only listed one or two locations in the whole country where they were regular.

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)

BLACK-FACED SOLITAIRE (Myadestes melanops)

One singing from the entrance gate at Trogon Lodge was a highlight of our first pre-breakfast walk there, and we heard another singing from the forest in Tapanti. What a gorgeous song!

BLACK-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus gracilirostris)

Fairly common in the highlands, where we had particularly nice views of one hopping around in the grass in front of Miriam's cafe and a couple of others in the gardens at Paraiso Quetzal.

ORANGE-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus aurantiirostris)

Our first was a rather skulky bird (understandable, given the downpour!) singing downhill from the cafe balcony at Mirador Valle del General. But our best views came around Monteverde, where we saw (and heard) small numbers of them just about everywhere we went.

SLATY-BACKED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus fuscater)

After working hard to get a glimpse of our first -- a furtive pair along the edge of a narrow trail at La Paz Waterfall Gardens -- we were amused to find another hopping around under our tables at the dining room there while we ate lunch.

RUDDY-CAPPED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus frantzii)

Our best views came as we headed back from the trail system on our last morning in Savegre, when we found one right in the middle of the path near the bridge shortly after we enjoyed our close encounter with the Spotted Wood-Quails.

MOUNTAIN THRUSH (Turdus plebejus)

A few on the grounds of the Trogon Lodge in the Savegre Valley, distinguished from the similarly plumaged Clay-colored Thrushes by their all-dark bills.

CLAY-COLORED THRUSH (Turdus grayi)

One of the very few species recorded every single day of the tour in every part of the country, though we somehow managed to miss actually SEEING one on a single day (only hearing it call). That's what makes this such an appropriate species for Costa Rica's national bird.

SOOTY THRUSH (Turdus nigrescens)

Reasonably common in the highlands, including some foraging along the roadsides as we descended into Savegre Valley and others bouncing around the grassy lawns of the Hotel Trogon.

Ptiliogonatidae (Silky-flycatchers)

BLACK-AND-YELLOW SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Phainoptila melanoxantha)

Unfortunately, this highland specialist was far less obliging than the next. We spotted three or four working through flowering bushes below the viewing platform at Paraiso Quetzal, but they proved frustratingly elusive for most.

LONG-TAILED SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Ptiliogonys caudatus)

Abundant in the Savegre Valley, with especially nice views of many at Paraiso Quetzal.

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]

Increasingly common in Costa Rica, seen on most days in the Caribbean lowlands and foothills with a few scattered sightings on the Pacific slope as well.

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)

ELEGANT EUPHONIA (Chlorophonia elegantissima)

A striking male with a mixed flock along the track above Savegre Mountain Lodge.

GOLDEN-BROWED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia callophrys)

A couple with a mixed flock above Savegre, but our best views came around Monteverde: a trio in a leafless tree right outside the reception building at Fonda Vela and a quartet gobbling fruits in the canopy along one of the trails at Curi-Cancha.

SCRUB EUPHONIA (Euphonia affinis)

A male along the Guacimo road showed its diagnostic combination of dark throat, yellow vent and white undertail. In Costa Rica, this widespread Central America species is found only in the dry northwest.

YELLOW-CROWNED EUPHONIA (Euphonia luteicapilla)

One along the road beside Rio San Jose (where we found our Fasciated Tiger-Heron) with a couple of others with the chlorophonias at Fonda Vela. Though similar to the previous species, the male Yellow-crowned has a dark undertail and a more extensive yellow crown. It's found in deciduous forest in the lowlands and foothills of both slopes.

WHITE-VENTED EUPHONIA (Euphonia minuta) [*]

Unfortunately, we only heard this one, calling along the trail at Braulio Carrillo. This is the least common of the dark-throated euphonias found in Costa Rica.

YELLOW-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia hirundinacea)

Seen on scattered days on both slopes. Though the field guides show this species only on the Pacific, the birds have colonized much of the Caribbean slope in the past decade. We had them at La Selva, along the Silencio road, and at Quelitales, as well as at Curi-Cancha. The male's bright yellow throat quickly separate him from the previous three species.

OLIVE-BACKED EUPHONIA (Euphonia gouldi)

Common in the Caribbean lowlands and foothills, with some nice encounters at La Selva, along the Rio San Jose and on the Silencio road -- typically seen as they fed on little berries.

TAWNY-CAPPED EUPHONIA (Euphonia anneae)

Our best views probably came in the Tuis valley, where we found a male among a mixed flock. We had another with a mixed flock along the Silencio road.

YELLOW-BELLIED SISKIN (Spinus xanthogastrus)

Vernon spotted one along the edge of the road as we drove out of the Savegre valley, and a few folks on the right side of the bus got a glimpse before it flew away.

Passerellidae (New World Sparrows)

SOOTY-CAPPED CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus pileatus)

At least a half dozen swarmed over the feeders at Miriam's cafe, giving us some stupendous views -- and photographs! We had close looks at others on the grounds of the Hotel Trogon and along the trails above Savegre Lodge. This highland species is another Chiriqui endemic.

COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus flavopectus)

Common at middle elevations, where we encountered some big, noisy flocks of them -- particularly at Tapanti and Santa Elena. Like the other chlorospingus species, this was once thought to be a tanager, until molecular examination proved otherwise.

STRIPE-HEADED SPARROW (Peucaea ruficauda)

A little group of four rummaged through the vegetation along the edge of a dry field on the Guacimo road. These handsome sparrows are restricted to the country's arid northwest (and further north as far as western Mexico).

BLACK-STRIPED SPARROW (Arremonops conirostris)

Particularly nice views of a responsive pair in some bushes right along the road past the Puerto Viejo police station, with others checking out the rice under Rancho's feeders each morning.

ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon aurantiirostris)

Regular in the lowlands and foothills of both slopes, with some fine views of the visitors under Rancho's feeders each morning. We often heard their high-pitched, squeaky songs coming from the forest undergrowth.

SOOTY-FACED FINCH (Arremon crassirostris)

A confiding bird near the entrance to the hummingbird feeders at La Paz Waterfall Gardens gave us some fabulous views as it circled around us, and we had fine looks at others around the waterfall at Hotel Quelitales.

VOLCANO JUNCO (Junco vulcani)

There were some anxious minutes when the first birds we found on Cerro de la Muerte disappeared before everybody had a look at them, but we found other, more cooperative birds higher up. This is another Chiriqui endemic, found only at the highest elevations.

RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis)

Common in the foothills and highland on both slopes. Their clear whistles were a regular part of the highland soundtrack, and their jaunty, peak-headed, "bow-tied" look made them easy to identify.

LARGE-FOOTED FINCH (Pezopetes capitalis)

Regular in the Savegre valley, with some great views of these "Sasquatches" on the grounds of our hotel. They feed by scratching through leaf litter, which makes those big feet especially useful.

WHITE-EARED GROUND-SPARROW (Melozone leucotis)

One skulking through a hedge at the edge of the parking lot at Freddo Fresas was a bit of a challenge, though most of us got there in the end. The birds on the grounds at Fonda Vela were far more cooperative.

CABANIS'S GROUND-SPARROW (Melozone cabanisi)

It took some patience and persistence, but we all eventually got nice looks at one (or more!) in the open in a coffee grove near the Hotel Bougainvillea. Sadly, this very range-restricted species is being squeezed into ever smaller patches of appropriate habitat.

WHITE-NAPED BRUSHFINCH (YELLOW-THROATED) (Atlapetes albinucha gutturalis)

One with a mixed flock working at the edge of the forest at Fonda Vela winked in and out of view on our first afternoon's ramble there.

YELLOW-THIGHED BRUSHFINCH (Atlapetes tibialis)

Super views of several raiding the feeders at Miriam's cafe, showing their yellow "stay-puffed marshmallows" to perfection. We saw others around the Hotel Trogon and on our walk at Savegre.

Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)

EASTERN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella magna) [*]

We heard several singing from the fields at the Corso dairy farm.

RED-BREASTED MEADOWLARK (Leistes militaris)

It took some patience, but we all finally spotted a male in the rough fields at Hacienda Oriente; his red shoulders made him look rather like a Red-winged Blackbird in flight -- and the females definitely resemble that species too!

CHESTNUT-HEADED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius wagleri)

Less common than their larger cousins, but often seen in mixed groups with them this year -- including in a fruiting tree near the start of La Selva's entrance road and at Cope's feeders.

MONTEZUMA OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius montezuma)

Common on the Caribbean slope, with particularly nice studies of the birds swarming over the Rancho feeders every day.

SCARLET-RUMPED CACIQUE (SCARLET-RUMPED) (Cacicus uropygialis microrhynchus)

A few, showing their colorful rumps nicely, during our walk along the Rio San Jose.

BLACK-COWLED ORIOLE (Icterus prosthemelas)

A pair in a small tree near the start of La Selva's entrance road, and another pair at La Quinta's feeders one morning. The all-black head and neck of this black and yellow oriole is unique among Costa Rica's orioles.

STREAK-BACKED ORIOLE (Icterus pustulatus)

One rummaged through a big tree near the dock where we boarded the boat for our Tarcoles River boat trip -- great spotting, Bruce! In Costa Rica, this species is only found in the northwestern lowlands.

RED-WINGED BLACKBIRD (Agelaius phoeniceus)

A trio of males came to nibble the rice at Cope's feeders and a couple of others swirled through the tall grasses edging the Tarcoles. These are spreading slowly southwards along both coasts.

BRONZED COWBIRD (Molothrus aeneus)

One at Cope's feeders, where its red eyes and thick neck were nicely visible, with others around the barns at Hacienda Oriente.

MELODIOUS BLACKBIRD (Dives dives)

Widespread throughout -- particularly on the Caribbean slope and even as high as Paraiso Quetzal. Not bad for a species that was first recorded in the country in 1987!

GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus)

Ubiquitous throughout, often in big numbers. We missed them only at the very highest elevations.

Parulidae (New World Warblers)

FLAME-THROATED WARBLER (Oreothlypis gutturalis)

Some fine views of these gorgeous warblers with mixed flocks at Savegre -- including a few at eye level, seen as we worked our way down the hill.

OLIVE-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis semiflava)

Two along the road by Puerto Viejo's police station played hard to get, popping up out the grass for only the briefest of looks before dropping back down out of view. Fortunately, another pair along the track in the Tuis valley were far more cooperative. The lack of a pale border on the male's mask helps to distinguish this species from all other yellowthroats in Costa Rica.

TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi)

Regular around Rancho, including a very confiding bird in a little tree over the Silencio road and others at Hotel Quelitales and Tapanti. The song of this tropical species is very similar to that of the Northern Parula.

YELLOW WARBLER (MANGROVE) (Setophaga petechia erithachorides)

A male, showing the rusty face of this distinctive resident subspecies, seen in the mangroves near Tarcoles while we searched for Mangrove Hummingbird. Females can show a little rusty crown spot.

CHESTNUT-CAPPED WARBLER (Basileuterus delattrii)

Four of these perky little warblers twitched through tangled growth along one of the trails at Calandaria. This species has been split from the Rufous-capped Warbler.

BLACK-CHEEKED WARBLER (Basileuterus melanogenys)

A little group foraged low along the Quebrada trail, working through a tangle left by a big tree fall. This is another Chiriqui endemic.

GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (Basileuterus culicivorus)

Especially nice views of the birds investigating the trees around Rancho's moth sheet, with others near the balcony and the hummingbird pools elsewhere on the property.

COSTA RICAN WARBLER (Basileuterus melanotis)

Regular in small numbers with mixed flocks at middle elevations: La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Hotel Quelitales, Tapanti, Santa Elena and Curi-Cancha. Formerly considered to be a subspecies of the Three-striped Warbler, it is now a Chiriqui endemic.

BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis fulvicauda)

Two sashayed their way along one of the concrete paths at La Selva, their bright rumps flashing against the dark understory, and another did the same along the riverbank under the bridge at Virgen del Socorro.

SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus)

Another common species at middle elevations. The birds found in Costa Rica have yellow bellies.

COLLARED REDSTART (Myioborus torquatus)

Some fine looks at these little charmers -- known locally as "Amigo de Hombre" or "Friend of Man" -- in the Savegre valley.

Mitrospingidae (Mitrospingid Tanagers)

DUSKY-FACED TANAGER (Mitrospingus cassinii)

Two along La Selva's entrance road paused for a half minute or so in the open, only a few feet off the ground. This skulking species can be tough to see.

Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)

HEPATIC TANAGER (Piranga flava)

One at Fonda Vela for some of the group.

FLAME-COLORED TANAGER (Piranga bidentata)

Some great views of these handsome birds in the Savegre Valley, especially at the fruit feeders at Miriam's cafe.

WHITE-WINGED TANAGER (Piranga leucoptera)

A female, briefly, near the entrance gate at Tapanti -- for those who weren't in the restroom line at the time.

RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGER (Habia fuscicauda)

Regular in the Caribbean lowlands and foothills, with particularly nice studies of the confiding pair clearing the Rancho moth sheet one morning.

CARMIOL'S TANAGER (Chlorothraupis carmioli)

A handful in the undergrowth along the trail at Braulio Carrillo. This was formerly part of the Olive Tanager complex, but has been split from South America's (formerly conspecific) Yellow-lored Tanager.

BLACK-FACED GROSBEAK (Caryothraustes poliogaster)

A noisy group of six in the residential clearing at La Selva, seen as we made our way towards the Estacion del Rio trail.

BLUE-BLACK GROSBEAK (Cyanoloxia cyanoides) [*]

We heard the distinctive descending whistle of this lowland/foothills species at La Selva and Carara, but never close -- and never responsive.

BLUE GROSBEAK (Passerina caerulea)

A pair in one of the scrubby fields beside a track we walked off the Guacimo road. This is an uncommon resident in the Pacific northwest of the country, with migrants from further north supplementing the population (and visiting the Caribbean slope) during the winter.

Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)

GRAY-HEADED TANAGER (Eucometis penicillata)

Two foraging low in the saplings above the army ant swarm at Villa Lapas made us work hard for a view. This species also uses White-faced Capuchin Monkeys as beaters.

WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Loriotus luctuosus)

A male at the Rancho hummingbird pools didn't show for everybody, but a pair with a mixed flock along the Sendero Meandrico were far more cooperative.

WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus)

A pair among the houses along the Silencio road (near Rancho) showed nicely the strong sexual dimporphism of the species -- and allowed us to directly compare a rusty female with a nearby Clay-colored Thrush.

CRIMSON-COLLARED TANAGER (Ramphocelus sanguinolentus)

Regular in the Caribbean lowlands and foothills, including some great close views of those at the feeders at Cope's and La Quinta.

SCARLET-RUMPED TANAGER (PASSERINI'S) (Ramphocelus passerinii passerinii)

Abundant in the Caribbean lowlands, often in little groups of a half dozen or more. This subspecies, found on the Caribbean slope, was formerly "Passerini's Tanager".

SCARLET-RUMPED TANAGER (CHERRIE'S) (Ramphocelus passerinii costaricensis)

And this subspecies is the Pacific coast replacement. Though the males are virtually indistinguishable from "Passerini's Tanager", the females are quite different, with significant amounts of reddish-orange on the chest and rump. We saw our first (in the pouring rain) at Mirador Valle del General, and had more leisurely views of others around Tarcoles and Villa Lapas.

BLUE-AND-GOLD TANAGER (Bangsia arcaei)

Two of these uncommon tanagers high above the trail at Braulio Carrillo, feeding on fruits that were bigger than their heads! The lack of a crown spot on the male's head helps to distinguish it from similarly colored euphonias. This species is found only in Caribbean foothills of Costa Rica and Panama.

BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)

Abundant throughout, typically in pairs. The subspecies found in Costa Rica -- cana -- is widespread, found from southeastern Mexico to northern Venezuela.

PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)

Common in the Caribbean lowland and foothills, with a few others along Carara's Sendero Meandrico. Like the previous species, this one is typically found in pairs.

SPECKLED TANAGER (Ixothraupis guttata)

Seen in small numbers on five days, often well. A quartet with a mixed flock along Tapanti's park road were particularly obliging, regularly pausing on mossy branches in the open.

GOLDEN-HOODED TANAGER (Stilpnia larvata)

Lively small groups on about half the days of the tour, typically gobbling berries in fruiting trees. They're reasonably common in the more humid lowlands and foothills of both slopes, though we saw them principally on the Caribbean side.

SPANGLE-CHEEKED TANAGER (Tangara dowii)

We found our first at La Paz Waterfall Gardens and others at Tapanti. But our best looks probably came on the track above Savegre Mountain Lodge, where a couple picked along eye level branches with a big mixed flock.

PLAIN-COLORED TANAGER (Tangara inornata)

One near the far end of La Selva's suspension bridge, seen by most while others lingered on the bridge trying to find the Green Heron.

BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola)

A few off the Rancho balcony on our last morning there, with others in a mixed tanager flock at Quelitales, seen as we headed up the hill towards the waterfall. But our best views probably came at Tapanti, where we found a few with a mixed flock above the road. The subspecies found in Costa Rica -- bangsi -- has turquoise underparts.

EMERALD TANAGER (Tangara florida)

Our first were with a big mixed flock along the edge of the forest at Braulio Carrillo (seen just after we finished our lunch), but our best views came along the Silencio road, where a couple of them worked through a moss-covered tree right over the road.

SILVER-THROATED TANAGER (Tangara icterocephala)

Regular in the foothills and middle elevations on both slopes, often in mixed flocks. The birds visiting the feeders at La Cinchona with youngsters in tow invited particularly close study -- and some outstanding photographs!

SCARLET-THIGHED DACNIS (Dacnis venusta)

Some fine views of these lovely little tanagers in the Tuis valley, with others at La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Rancho, and Curi-Cancha. The male's scarlet thighs are typically pretty tough to see.

SHINING HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes lucidus)

Point-blank views of a male right outside the viewing box at Donde Cope. Those are some shockingly yellow legs!

RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus)

Small numbers on scattered days on both slopes, with some super views of a trio of youngsters at the feeders at La Cinchona (unexpectedly high) and another trio at Donde Cope.

GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza)

Common in the lowlands and middle elevations of the Caribbean slope, with especially nice studies of the birds visiting the feeders at Donde Cope.

BLACK-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Chrysothlypis chrysomelas)

First seen at Braulio Carrillo, where a gang of at least eight swarmed through trees up the hill from the picnic shelter. We had even closer views of another half dozen along the Silencio road. This middle elevation species is endemic to Costa Rica and Panama.

SLATY FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa plumbea)

Common in the highlands, including a few around the entrance to the Corso dairy farm and others each day in the Savegre valley. We even got to watch a few using their distinctively shaped beaks to poke holes in the bases of flower corollas, to steal the nectar they couldn't reach otherwise.

BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)

Seen in small numbers on scattered days, including a male doing his endearing little song jumps in a weedy field along the road past the Puerto Viejo police station. We had others along the road in Virgen del Socorro, in the Tuis valley and along the Guacimo road.

THICK-BILLED SEED-FINCH (Sporophila funerea)

Two in a field of tall grass upslope from the Tuis valley road eventually showed well -- and allowed nice comparison with some nearby Variable Seedeaters.

VARIABLE SEEDEATER (Sporophila corvina)

Particularly common in the Caribbean lowlands and foothills, where we saw them every day, with others in the Pacific lowlands around Carara.

MORELET'S SEEDEATER (Sporophila morelleti morelleti)

A male in one of the grassy overgrown fields along the road near the Puerto Viejo police station. This was formerly part of the White-collared Seedeater complex.

BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)

Regular on the first half of the tour, but missing from the highlands. They were most often seen flicking from flower to flower in a bush somewhere, busily sipping nectar.

YELLOW-FACED GRASSQUIT (Tiaris olivaceus)

Small numbers under Rancho's feeders, in the Tuis valley and in the pastures just outside Tapanti.

BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus)

Regular in small numbers on the first half of the tour, less so on the second half. The one visiting La Quinta's feeders on the morning we left there was particularly showy, giving us a great chance to study its ID features.

BLACK-HEADED SALTATOR (Saltator atriceps)

A small group near the start of La Selva's entrance road got away before everybody had a look. Fortunately, we found a more cooperative pair near some of the houses along the Silencio road. Its white throat and dark crown -- plus its larger size -- help to distinguish it from the previous species.

CINNAMON-BELLIED SALTATOR (Saltator grandis)

Good looks of one on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea our first afternoon with another near the parking lot at Freddo Fresas. But our best views probably came at La Quinta, where a pair raided the feeders on our last morning there.

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MAMMALS

CENTRAL AMERICAN WOOLY OPOSSUM (Caluromys derbianus)

A female nursing her naked youngsters (at least seven!) in broad daylight a tree right outside the Villa Lapas dining room was a surprise -- this is normally a wary, nocturnal species. It's also known as Derby's Wooly Opossum.

LESSER WHITE-LINED BAT (Saccopteryx leptura)

Four hanging on the side of a big tree along one of the paths at La Selva gave us some great scope views. Those squiggly white lines on their back were clearly visible in the gloom.

COMMON TENT-MAKING BAT (Uroderma bilobatum)

A trio of these little bats hung under a "tent" they'd made out of a big leaf in Cope's woods. They chew through the mid-rib of such leaves, causing them to fold in half. Studies have shown these "tents" can last for up to 2 months before they dry up and fall off, forcing the bats to move to a new location.

HONDURAN WHITE BAT (Ectophylla alba)

A couple of these adorable little fuzzballs snoozed (back to back) under a big, waist-high leaf in Cope's woods -- which made getting a look at them a bit of a yoga challenge! Like the previous species, they're "tent-makers".

MANTLED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta palliata)

As usual, we heard far more of these than we actually saw. La Selva proved a good spot for them, with troops along the Sendero Tres Rios on both of our visits there. We saw others feeding high in some trees along the Guacimo road. Calls of the males can be heard for more than a mile!

WHITE-THROATED CAPUCHIN (Cebus capucinus)

A little group along La Selva's STR trail, with others around Fonda Vela and Monteverde. This species, is also known as the Panamanian White-faced Capuchin, is a key disperser of seeds and pollen.

CENTRAL AMERICAN SPIDER MONKEY (Ateles geoffroyi)

Seen both days at La Selva (along the STR trail) and at Braulio Carrillo, with others heard calling in Carara. The subspecies found in most of Costa Rica -- ornatus -- is considered to be endangered.

HOFFMANN'S TWO-TOED SLOTH (Choloepus hoffmanni)

One scratched (and scratched and scratched) as it dangled from a branch high over one of the paths at La Selva, giving us the chance to see its two long claws nicely in the scopes.

BROWN-THROATED THREE-TOED SLOTH (Bradypus variegatus)

One -- absolutely COVERED in mosquitoes -- quick-stepped it (for a sloth, anyway) along the branches of a tree near La Selva's entrance gate, perhaps trying to outrun its tormentors. We saw another, with a baby, along one of the trails there.

NINE-BANDED ARMADILLO (Dasypus novemcinctus)

One snuffled along the edge of the Rancho driveway, seen as we birded our way down to Rancho Bajo and some of the gang got quick views of a pair of youngsters in the woods near some of the cabins at Fonda Vela (until they vanished down their bolt hole).

BRAZILIAN RABBIT (Sylvilagus brasiliensis)

A few seen on lawns at various places around La Selva on our night walk.

DICE'S RABBIT (Sylvilagus dicei)

Bruce spotted a rabbit at Fonda Vela that would have been this species, which is found in the highland forests of the Cordillera de Talamanca.

VARIEGATED SQUIRREL (Sciurus variegatoides)

Very common on both slopes, though missing from the highest mountains. They come in a variety of subspecies and colors across the country.

RED-TAILED SQUIRREL (Sciurus granatensis)

Seen on half of the days of the tour, mostly in the first week. One carting off a banana at Rancho was particularly amusing; its fruit mustache nearly matched it in size!

ALFARO'S PYGMY SQUIRREL (Microsciurus alfari)

One of these little squirrels darted up the side of a tree trunk along the trail at Braulio Carrillo, seen only by a few.

DUSKY RICE RAT (Melanomys caliginosus)

Quick but repeated views of one that kept darting out to seize a rice grain or two before scurrying back into shelter in a dense plant below the Rancho balcony.

CENTRAL AMERICAN AGOUTI (Dasyprocta punctata)

Singles seen on several days, including a few trotting along La Selva's STR trail (well down the trail from us), a braver one under Rancho's balcony one morning and others at Fonda Vela and Santa Elena. Though they're typically seen solitarily, these agoutis mate for life.

WHITE-NOSED COATI (Nasua narica)

A male with a bad foot was a regular visitor to Rancho's feeders and we had several interactions with a determined raider during several meals at Villa Lapas's.

COLLARED PECCARY (Tayassu tajacu)

A small group snuffled along the start of the STR trail, seen as we waited out the torrential downpour one afternoon.

WHITE-TAILED DEER (Odocoileus virginianus)

A couple along Carara's Sendero Meandrico disappeared among the trees with a snort and their white "flags" held high.

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HERPS

GROUND ANOLE (Anolis humilis)

A few seen along La Selva's STR trail, including a male on a cut section of log flicking his cherry-red dewlap at an approaching female and another female sitting motionlessly on a leaf.

GREEN IGUANA (Iguana iguana)

A couple of big males seen well up trees at La Selva.

BLACK SPINY-TAILED IGUANA (Ctenosaura similis)

Regular in the Pacific lowlands, including a big one checking out the offerings in the Villa Lapas dining room one morning.

COMMON BASILISK (Basiliscus basiliscus)

We spotted one of these "Jesus lizards" on the grounds of Villa Lapas one morning. This is the Pacific slope counterpart of the next species.

GREEN BASILISK (Basiliscus plumifrons)

A big male trotted across the lawn in the residential area of La Selva in the pouring rain, then froze, doing a perfect imitation of a fallen leaf. We saw another at Cope's.

TROPICAL HOUSE GECKO (Hemidactylus mabouia) [I]

Regular at La Quinta and Villa Lapas, typically hunting around the lights in the dining rooms after dark. Originally from the Old World tropics, this species has become well-established throughout much of tropical America. It arrived in Costa Rica in the late 1980s/early 1990s.

YELLOW-HEADED GECKO (Gonatodes albigularis)

One of these dark little geckos spotted near the dining room at Villa Lapas. Unlike most geckos, this one has round pupils, which indicates it is diurnal.

CENTRAL AMERICAN WHIPTAIL (Ameiva festiva)

Seen scurrying through the leaf litter along Carara's Quebrada Bonita trail, with another seen by Bruce on the grounds of Villa Lapas. This species is most often seen in forest interior.

NORTHERN CAT-EYED SNAKE (Leptodeira septentrionalis)

We found a small dead one -- cause uncertain -- right near the start of the river trail at Villa Lapas on our second pre-breakfast walk there.

BLUNT-HEADED TREE SNAKE (Imantodes cenchoa)

Bruce and I spotted one of these strangely blunt-nosed little vipers winding its way down a chair near our rooms at Villa Lapas.

AMERICAN CROCODILE (Crocodylus acutus)

A few along the edges of the Tarcoles, where some truly enormous ones live.

GREEN CLIMBING TOAD (Incilius coniferus)

A prickly-looking brown one in the middle of the Silencio road, which seemed rather a strange place for a forest climber! But this little toad, which reportedly climbs quite well, is typically found in undisturbed forest, like that found not far from the road.

FORRER'S LEOPARD FROG (Lithobates forreri)

A single one dangled at the edge of a lily pad in a pond at Hotel Bougainvillea, looking big and spotty compared to the sleek, lime-green Golden-eyed Leaf Frogs nearby.

STRAWBERRY POISON DART FROG (Dendrobates pumilio)

Common in the forest at La Selva, where they posed photogenically on the buttresses of some of the huge trees.

GREEN-AND-BLACK POISON DART FROG (Dendrobates auratus)

Almost ridiculously common on the grounds of Villa Lapas, including dozens hopping around in the unused dining area across the river from the main buildings.

RED-EYED LEAF FROG (Agalychnis callidryas)

One on a branch over the STR trail at La Selva, spotted expertly by Vernon as we headed back from our night walk, with another snuggled up on the skirting board of the women's restroom at Villa Lapas on a couple of mornings.

GOLDEN-EYED LEAF FROG (Agalychnis annae)

Very common in one of the ponds at Hotel Bougainvillea, including a pair clamped together (little male atop a much larger female) on one of the lily pads.

MASKED TREE FROG (Smilisca phaeota)

One along La Selva's STR trail, shortly before the torrential downpour. This is the only large tree frog in Costa Rica that shows both a dark mask and a silvery-white line along the upper lip -- sometimes with a bright green spot between the two.

CENTRAL AMERICAN MUD TURTLE (Kinosternon angustipons)

One lounging near the pond at Donde Cope's.

CANE TOAD (Rhinella marina)

A few hunting after dark on the grounds of La Quinta and Villa Lapas. This is the world's largest toad, and a few of the animals we saw were pretty sizable!

HOURGLASS TREEFROG (Dendropsophus ebraccatus)

A mating pair on vegetation in one of the ponds just outside the restrooms in the main building at Villa Lapas. Unfortunately, the female was still there the following day -- dead and stuck to the leaves, still in the same position.

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Totals for the tour: 408 bird taxa and 20 mammal taxa