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Participant Janice White snapped this lovely portrait of a Golden-hooded Tanager in its typical, epiphyte-laden habitat.
When winter grips North America in its cold, gray clutches, it's nice to escape to a place where it's "summer" year-round -- where flowers are blooming in garden and forest, fruits hang heavy on the trees and colorful birds abound. And if you can also spend a whole week relaxing at the same comfortable lodge (rather than living out of a suitcase), blow your diet on some fine food and start your "year list" with some real gems -- well, what more could you ask for?!
Though we stayed a week in the Caribbean foothills, we didn't restrict ourselves to them, venturing down into the lowlands and up to the high slopes of Volcan Irazu on day trips. And wow, did we find some nice birds! Sometimes they came in groups. A fruiting tree on the Universidad EARTH campus attracted a half-dozen noisy Great Green Macaws, an endangered species slowly expanding its range back into Costa Rica. A mixed flock swarmed along a verdant hillside beside the Silent Mountain road, with Silver-throated, Emerald, Black-and-yellow, and Bay-headed tanagers, Boat-billed, Gray-capped and Social flycatchers, and an uncommon Rufous-rumped Antwren in tow. A morning at the Rancho moth sheet brought many normally shy forest species, including three species of woodcreeper, a pair of Plain Antvireos, some endearing White-breasted Wood-Wrens and the range-restricted Tawny-chested Flycatcher, almost within arm's reach as they gobbled up insects attracted to the light. Swarms of hummingbirds jousted around Rancho's feeders. Dozens of birds, including several tiny Snowcaps, Violet-crowned Woodnymphs, a White-throated Spadebill, a Golden-crowned Warbler and several Carmiol's Tanagers dipped themselves in the hummingbird pools. A blizzard of swifts -- White-collared, Chestnut-collared, Spot-fronted, Vaux's and Black -- swirled against ragged storm clouds in the lowlands. Long-tailed Silky-Flycatchers chased each other in a highland gully, occasionally posing in photogenically mossy treetops.
Of course, we enjoyed some less "social" birds too. A Great Potoo snoozed in a leafy treetop. A White-eared Ground-Sparrow rummaged in the lovely gardens of Hotel Bougainvillea. A pair of Resplendent Quetzal flashed in to land on epiphyte-laden branches. A Sunbittern edged along a boulder-strewn stream, flashing its spectacular wings as it flew in short hops along the stream. Montezuma Oropendolas flipped themselves upside down in somersaulting courtship displays. A Semiplumbeous Hawk tore strips from some hapless prey item, screaming challenges as it did so. Green Ibis probed wet field edges. A Black-cheeked Warbler danced through a tangle of branches right in front of us. A Volcano Junco bounced along a weedy roadside and then perched on a giant Gunnera leaf. Sooty Thrushes (and a showy Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush) gobbled berries in fruiting trees. A female Golden-browed Chlorophonia glowed among pale guava branches. And we certainly know where every Chestnut-sided Warbler from North America spends the winter!
Thanks so much for joining me for a New Year's adventure in the land of "Pura Vida". It was good fun birding with you! Thanks too to Harry for his great co-leading (what ears!) and to William for keeping us safe on the roads. Thanks to the staff at Rancho for taking such good care of us, and to Caroline at the FGI office for her efforts behind the scenes. I hope to see you all in the field again for another adventure, somewhere, some day!
-- Megan
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Gray-headed Chachalacas staged daily raids on Rancho's banana feeders. Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
LITTLE TINAMOU (Crypturellus soui) – One called a few times while we admired our Great Green Macaws at Universidad EARTH, but it wasn't very close. [*]
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis) – A group of four stood on a driveway along the road down to the lowlands on the day we went to Universidad EARTH, and were still in the same general area when we came back later in the day. Harry assures us they were wild birds!
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata) – A couple of these big ducks paddling around at the far edge of the Turire reservoir were the only likely candidates for wild birds; we saw plenty of domesticated birds, which are distinguishable by the large amounts of white they show in various parts of their plumage.
BLUE-WINGED TEAL (Spatula discors) – Dozens of these winter visitors floated along the edges of the tiny Birris reservoir, and another dozen busily foraged in a little stream we passed outside La Suisa.
LESSER SCAUP (Aythya affinis) – Scores of these winter visitors floated, snoozing, in the middle of the Birris reservoir.
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
GRAY-HEADED CHACHALACA (Ortalis cinereiceps) – Especially nice views of a mob that raided the Rancho feeders while we had lunch one day.
CRESTED GUAN (Penelope purpurascens) – Two feeding on figs in a big tree down the hill from Rancho's entrance road gave us eye-level views on the morning we walked down to Kathy's house. Some of the gang saw others from the Rancho balcony one morning, and we found another high overhead near Rancho's pasture during another morning's walk there.
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
PIED-BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps) – We spotted a couple of these very uncommon residents among the big Lesser Scaup flock on the Turire reservoir.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) – Sprinkled on dead snags and islets across the Turire reservoir, with others flying past or lurking among the Black Vulture roost in trees at one end of the water.
Our first Spotted Barbtails make an appearance at Tapanti. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga) – A male roosted in a tree at the edge of the papyrus swamp at CATIE, keeping a wary eye on us as we walked around the lake.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
LEAST BITTERN (Ixobrychus exilis) – A male lifted out of the marsh grass at the edge of the Turire reservoir; it flew a hundred yards or so across the end of the dock (flashing those distinctive two-toned wings) then dropped back into the grass.
FASCIATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma fasciatum) – This was the second of the tiger-herons we found at Universidad EARTH; it was standing on the rocks in one of the swiftly-flowing sections of the river, seen as we walked across the suspension bridge. It caught a huge fish while we watched, and retired to the stony bank to try to figure out how to eat it. It was still wrestling with the problem when we walked away!
BARE-THROATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma mexicanum) – This was the first of the tiger-herons we found at Universidad EARTH -- hunting in a shallow pond right near the road. It stalked in slow motion along the concrete edge of the pond, peering intently into the water.
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias) – A single bird stalked the far edge of the Turire reservoir. This is another winter visitor to Costa Rica, though a few birds persist in the country year-round.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba) – A few in scattered streams, ponds and reservoirs. Costa Rica has a resident breeding population of this species, but numbers are augmented in the winter by migrants from further north.
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula) – Like the previous species, this one was seen in a few scattered waterways during our tour -- including one standing conveniently close to one of each of the other egrets in a trashy little stream in Tuis. Also like the previous species, this one has a resident population whose numbers are augmented by North American migrants in the winter.
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea) – An adult hunted in a trash-filled stream near Tuis, an all-white youngster preened in the papyrus at CATIE, and a handful of birds (both adults and youngsters) foraged on the fringes of the Tuis reservoir. This is a common and widespread winter visitor, with a small number of birds remaining in the country year-round.
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) – Abundant throughout, including flocks of dozens flying up and down the Tuis valley each day (often visible from the Rancho balcony) and attentive birds hovering around the hooves of livestock in fields we passed en route.
GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens) – One stood frozen along the edge of a little stream in Tuis, and another fled -- crest raised -- into the marsh as we approached the boat dock at Casa Turire.
The handsome Talamanca Hummingbird was recently split from the Magnificent Hummingbird. Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nyctanassa violacea) – A double handful of birds (mostly adults, with one still-brown youngster) rested in trees around the edges of the little lake at CATIE, and another strolled along the far side of of the Turire reservoir, barely visible against the muddy bank.
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius) – Well, we saw a PIECE of a Boat-billed Heron, anyway! Some great spotting by Harry of a bird (or maybe more than one) tucked into the papyrus at CATIE -- it was little more than a lump of gray until it opened its huge dark eye. Unfortunately, we couldn't see that distinctive, shovel-shaped bill.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – One poked and prodded along the edge of a shallow pond along the road between the Cachi Reservoir and Hacienda Oriente, not far from our first Northern Jacanas, and another pair hunted on the grassy edge of the main road through the Universidad EARTH campus. This species is different enough from other ibis species that it sits in a monotypic genus.
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus) – Daily, often in some truly impressive numbers -- like the kettles that developed over the valleys on several afternoons and the big group that dropped into the trees at one end of the Turire reservoir.
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura) – Also daily, though typically in smaller numbers than the previous species. Our strangest encounter were the few we spotted on the ground at CATIE; they were nibbling the palm fruits!
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – One glided past as we walked down the hill to the dock at Casa Turire. This is a common winter visitor to Costa Rica.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus) – Seen on several days of the tour, including a very nice view of one right over the parking lot of the supermarket where we made our early morning pit stop en route to Volcan Irazu, and another hovering against an orangey sunset sky as we headed to Rancho our first afternoon.
HOOK-BILLED KITE (Chondrohierax uncinatus) – Two circled with a big group of Black Vultures right over the road, seen as we headed down from the Silent Mountain road after our successful Sunbittern outing. The paddle-shaped wings of this species in flight -- pinched in where they attach to the body and rounded at the tips -- are distinctive.
ORNATE HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus ornatus) – A snowy-white youngster in a treetop across the valley from the Tapanti park road was a treat; fortunately, it was calling loudly, which attracted our attention. In the scopes, we could clearly see the black barring on its flanks and its long black crest feathers.
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – A few distant birds drifted over the far side of the Turire reservoir or sat in trees and dead snags along the edges. This is a relatively recent arrival to the Tuis valley, arriving only after the reservoir was created; it doesn't show for the area on maps in the older field guides.
TINY HAWK (Accipiter superciliosus) – One in a dead snag well up the hill from the Tapanti park road was a surprise; though it sometimes perches up on exposed branches, it normally stays well-hidden in dense cover. This ambush hunter is a hummingbird specialist, often picking those speedsters right off their perches.
BICOLORED HAWK (Accipiter bicolor) – One sat perched up on a dead snag visible from the Rancho balcony on our first morning there, and was later seen in another tree as we headed out for a morning's walk down the entrance road. This ambush hunter is pretty rare in Costa Rica.
BARRED HAWK (Morphnarchus princeps) – One glided across the valley as we birded the Silent Mountain road, then disappeared over the ridge without ever really giving us much of a look.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris) – Very common throughout the tour, with particularly nice looks at several on roadside wires at Universidad EARTH.
SEMIPLUMBEOUS HAWK (Leucopternis semiplumbeus) – We heard one calling and calling and calling for long minutes in the forest at Universidad EARTH before we finally found it -- great spotting, Heidi! It took some maneuvering with the scopes, but we eventually got some pretty good looks as it munched something held firmly in one foot, shouting in between each mouthful.
GRAY HAWK (Buteo plagiatus) – An adult sat on a post along the edge of the Birris reservoir, and a youngster perched in a tree along the road between Rancho and Turrialba on the day we went to Universidad EARTH. On this tour route, we typically only find this species in the Central Valley.
BROAD-WINGED HAWK (Buteo platypterus) – A handful of birds seen on most days of the tour (including a few circling over Volcan Irazu) with our best looks coming at Universidad EARTH, where we found one drying out -- spread-winged -- along the road. Most of the birds we saw were youngsters.
A calling Semiplumbeous Hawk seemed to be crowing about the meal it had caught. Photo by participant Janice White.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) – A few in flight over Volcan Irazu on each of our visits. This is reputedly one of the most common soaring raptors over much of Costa Rica.
ZONE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albonotatus) – Harry and Heidi happened to be looking in the right direction when one of these uncommon resident raptors glided overhead as we birded near the Rancho pasture one morning.
RED-TAILED HAWK (Buteo jamaicensis) – Several pairs of resident birds -- subspecies costaricensis -- flew close together over the flanks of Volcan Irazu, showing their distinctively rufous belly band. We also saw at least one high-flying migrant (i.e. with a "regular" belly band) over the Rancho entrance road as we walked down the hill our first morning there.
Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)
SUNBITTERN (Eurypyga helias) – Yahoo! After dipping on these charismatic birds on our first visit to the Silent Mountain road, we connected with a close pair on our second try. They crept away along the rocky shoreline of the valley's stream, but stayed in view once they'd reached a distance they felt secure with. We even got a few brief glimpses of their amazing wing patterns as they occasionally flew from boulder to boulder.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
WHITE-THROATED CRAKE (Laterallus albigularis) – We heard a pair calling from a marshy clearing along the forest track we walked at Universidad EARTH, and at least four more pairs chortled from the thick vegetation around the edges of the Turire reservoir. [*]
RUSSET-NAPED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides albiventris) – A trio scurried across the road near the rotten banana dumping zone at Universidad EARTH. This species was split from the former Gray-necked Wood-Rail.
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica) – A few adults with full-grown (but drab) youngsters in tow around the lake at CATIE, with others in the grassy edges of the Turire reservoir.
COMMON GALLINULE (Gallinula galeata) – We heard a few squawking from the thick vegetation around the edges of the Turire reservoir, and finally connected with a few swimming in the open further out across the water. This species was recently split from the former "Common Moorhen" complex.
Aramidae (Limpkin)
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna) – Our first was little more than a spotty brown lump standing in the grass along the far side of the Turire reservoir (though we could see its long, down-curved beak), but a second one standing in the open on a little island well out in the water showed a bit better. This species specializes on eating the huge Apple Snail -- so named because it's about the size of that fruit.
Riding the banana train -- something most of us didn't even know existed before we saw it for ourselves! Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) – We spotted one standing in one of the horse paddocks at Casa Oriente -- giving us nice scope views -- and drove past a couple of others in another horse pasture at Casa Turire. This species is slowly spreading north across Costa Rica as forests are cleared for pastures.
KILLDEER (Charadrius vociferus) – A handful of these winter visitors snoozed along the edges of the Birris reservoir.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
NORTHERN JACANA (Jacana spinosa) – Especially common at CATIE, where dozens -- including lots of stripey-faced youngsters -- trotted across the lily pads, showing off their incredibly long toes. We saw others at Casa Oriente, around the Turire reservoir and in various roadside wet spots on some of our drives.
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) – A couple of unspotted birds waggled along the edge of the Birris reservoir, and we saw others in scattered roadside wet spots -- including that trashy little stream at the edge of Tuis.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) – Common around cities and towns, including a very large flock wheeling over the Hotel Bougainvillea our first morning. [I]
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) – Quite common in the Caribbean lowlands, seen in good numbers at Universidad EARTH and along the highways as we headed there and back. The ones perched up in the big open tree near the EARTH entrance booth gave us good scope views, letting us see their distinctively light vents and undertails.
RED-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas flavirostris) – Very common and widespread, seen every day but one -- and we probably just didn't look hard enough that day! Their scientific name -- flavirostris -- means "yellow-billed", which is a much better description than their common name!
BAND-TAILED PIGEON (Patagioenas fasciata) – A half dozen or so of these big pigeons trundled around on the ground -- occasionally flying up into the trees for a few moments before dropping back down -- near where we found our Resplendent Quetzals on the flanks of Volcan Irazu. This is a highland species, typically found above 1400 meters (about 4600 feet) in Costa Rica.
SHORT-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas nigrirostris) – We heard the monotonous "up cup a COO" call of this lowland species on most days at Rancho, but never spotted the singers. [*]
INCA DOVE (Columbina inca) – A single bird sat with its back to us in the garden at Hotel Bougainvillea our first morning, showing us its scaly plumage. Some of the group saw another sitting on a roadside wire as we headed towards Tapanti on our final morning.
The spectacular Harlequin Beetle was just one of the many insects attracted by Wayne's bug light. Photo by participant Janice White.
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti) – Plentiful at Universidad EARTH, where our first two scuttled along the edge of the roadway; we later found a flock of 40-50, with a few larger Pale-vented Pigeons sprinkled among them. We saw others on the Silent Mountain road and on the drive back to San Jose.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi) – Daily, including some nice views of one waddling around under the feeders at Rancho while we had lunch one day. One in flight in the garden at Hotel Bougainvillea showed well the white tail tips that give it its common name.
GRAY-CHESTED DOVE (Leptotila cassinii) – Harry and Janice spotted one lurking along the edge of the lawn at Wayne's, before breakfast one morning.
WHITE-WINGED DOVE (Zenaida asiatica) – Common in open areas throughout the tour, with many sitting on roadside wires. This species used to be restricted to the northern Pacific slope of Costa Rica, but is now found in non-forested areas across much of the country.
MOURNING DOVE (Zenaida macroura) – A few scattered birds seen on the slopes of Volcan Irazu -- the only place on our tour route where this species is regularly seen. It's far more common on Costa Rica's Pacific slope.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
GROOVE-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga sulcirostris) – A double handful on fence posts and wires at Casa Oriente, with others on the lawns of Universidad EARTH and in pastures along some of the roads. Their combination of short, rounded wings and long tail make them distinctive in their short, quickly-flapping flights.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana) – One perched up in a tree right near the main building at Rancho gave us great opportunity for scope study as we started our walk down the entrance road our first morning at Rancho. We saw another along the Silent Mountain road, and hear their distinctive wolf whistles on several days.
Tytonidae (Barn-Owls)
BARN OWL (AMERICAN) (Tyto alba guatemalae) – This one was an unexpected bonus on our owl outing in Paraiso. While we read an old sign about Barn Owls outside a church near the main plaza, the church guard came out to tell us he could show us a roosting owl. And he did!
Strigidae (Owls)
TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba) – One of these little owls dozed on a branch almost within arm's reach at a busy city park in the middle of Paraiso. The dark lines at the edge of its facial disk are distinctive.
MOTTLED OWL (Ciccaba virgata) – After hearing this big owl for nights and nights at Rancho, we walked a short way down the road and stood in the dark near the horse pasture, listening as it came closer and closer. A few minutes later, it flew in to a branch right over our heads, and sat calling, peering off into the darkness (with an occasional glance down at us when we squeaked).
Finding an owl on a day roost is always a treat. And this Tropical Screech-Owl was only about 10 feet up a tree! Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis) – We flushed this nightbird off the Rancho entrance road several times when returning to the property at (or just after) dusk, and those who trooped down the road early one morning were rewarded with quick spotlit views of one hovering over the bench along the roadside.
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis) – One on a dayroost at CATIE was a treat; its camouflage was certainly effective, making it look like just another part of the tree. Through the scope, we could see the three little notches in its eyelid which allow it to peer out at its surroundings without opening its huge brown eye -- which would certainly negate its "I'm just a tree branch" disguise.
Apodidae (Swifts)
BLACK SWIFT (Cypseloides niger) – A couple of these large, dark swifts rocketed past overhead while we birded along the main road at Universidad EARTH. This, Costa Rica's second-largest swift, shows a distinctively notched tail.
SPOT-FRONTED SWIFT (Cypseloides cherriei) – At least two of these uncommon swifts made a couple of passes over us as we birded along the main road at Universidad EARTH. They're thicker-bodied and blunter-headed than the other swifts, but you have to be mighty close to see the white spots on their heads.
CHESTNUT-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne rutila) – One, showing its chestnut neck band well as it banked overhead along the road at Universidad EARTH.
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris) – Seen on most days of the tour, including a big flock swirling over the horse pastures at Hacienda Oriente. This is one of the world's largest swifts (number 4 or 5 on the list -- but not by much).
VAUX'S SWIFT (Chaetura vauxi) – Our biggest numbers were at Universidad EARTH, where they winnowed over the trees by the score. This is a resident species in Costa Rica, but numbers are supplemented in the winter by birds from further north.
LESSER SWALLOW-TAILED SWIFT (Panyptila cayennensis) – Small numbers swept back and forth overhead as we birded near the entrance to Universidad EARTH. Their long forked tails (seen when they banked) and various white patches (throat and rump) made them relatively easy to pick out.
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora) – One of the most common hummingbirds at Rancho, where males and females jousted in good numbers around the feeders. We saw others at Universidad EARTH.
Some of the Crowned Woodnymphs perched so close to the Rancho balcony that we could easily have reached out and touched them. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
WHITE-TIPPED SICKLEBILL (Eutoxeres aquila) – Those who climbed Rancho's Manakin trail had brief views of one as it checked out some Heliconia flowers -- for which its fantastically curved beak is perfectly "designed".
BAND-TAILED BARBTHROAT (Threnetes ruckeri) – A lucky few got quick glimpses of one of these short-tailed hermits when it visited a Heliconia flower along the edge of the forest road at Universidad EARTH.
GREEN HERMIT (Phaethornis guy) – A male made several visits to one of the feeders at Rancho, sharing airspace uneasily with a few White-necked Jacobins, and we saw another visiting flowers along the Tapanti park road. Females have longer white tail tips than males do.
LONG-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis longirostris) – Seen by some as it zipped past along the road through the forest at Universidad EARTH; it made several passes, but was never in sight for long.
STRIPE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis striigularis) – One of these small hermits foraged in the vervain hedge at Kathy's (Rancho Bajo), Bill spotted another at Cafe Cristina while waiting for us to finish our coffee tour, and those who climbed the hill at Rancho spotted one along the Manakin trail.
GREEN-FRONTED LANCEBILL (Doryfera ludovicae) – A couple of different birds had built nests under the edge of the Tapanti visitor's center, and we caught a few quick views of them as they zipped in and out.
LESSER VIOLETEAR (Colibri cyanotus) – Fairly common on the slopes of Volcan Irazu, where we heard them singing (a syncopated, rather monotonous four-note song) just about everywhere we stopped, short of the summit itself. We had nice views of one at the hummingbird feeders outside Nochebuena, and of others in the gully where we found our quetzal.
GREEN-BREASTED MANGO (Anthracothorax prevostii) – Another common hummingbird at Rancho's feeders, with a dozen others feeding on the yellow flowers of a big tree near the entrance to Universidad EARTH. Their maroon-colored tail is distinctive.
GREEN THORNTAIL (Discosura conversii) – Our first was an adult male, sporting long tail feathers, foraging a foot or so off the ground in the vervain hedge outside Kathy's house. We had another male -- a tailless one this time -- perched and feeding in a flowering tree just outside the main building at Rancho.
GREEN-CROWNED BRILLIANT (Heliodoxa jacula) – A female made several visits to one of the feeders in front of Robin and Susan's porch on the Rancho balcony.
TALAMANCA HUMMINGBIRD (Eugenes spectabilis) – We spotted a female at the feeders at Nochebuena on our first visit to Volcan Irazu, and found others on the slopes of the mountain on our second. This was formerly a subspecies of the Magnificent Hummingbird.
FIERY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Panterpe insignis) – Regular on the slopes of Volcan Irazu, including one on a nest right over the trail out to our gully overlook spot. [N]
WHITE-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis hemileucus) – Two shared a branch -- though we couldn't tell if they were fighting or courting -- along the Tapanti park road, distracting us from our first female Black-bellied Hummingbird.
PURPLE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis calolaemus) – A female flashed her rusty underside as she foraged in some pink blossoms along the Tapanti park road.
RUBY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Archilochus colubris) – A young male in Kathy's garden was a bit of a surprise; this species is common further west and north in Costa Rica but is only a casual visitor to the Caribbean foothills.
VOLCANO HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus flammula) – Very common on Volcan Irazu, with dozens seen -- including a few perched males flashing their bright gorgets. This was the smallest of the highland hummingbirds we saw.
VIOLET SABREWING (Campylopterus hemileucurus) – A few of these big hummers seen during the week, including one stunner that regularly visited the feeder at one corner of the Rancho balcony. The big white tail tips of this large species -- and its dark coloring -- help to quickly identify it.
BRONZE-TAILED PLUMELETEER (Chalybura urochrysia) – One made some quick visits to the feeder at the corner of the Rancho balcony (near Susan and Robin's room), and those who checked out Wayne's feeders saw another female there. This is Costa Rica's only red-footed hummingbird.
CROWNED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania colombica) – Lovely views of this one from mere feet away on the Rancho balcony, where one regularly perched on the branches taped to the railings. We saw a number of others having splashing baths in the hummingbird pools; surely they're the cleanest birds in the forest!
BLACK-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Eupherusa nigriventris) – Small numbers at Tapanti, including a male that sat perched for long minutes in a flowering vine over the road, and a white-bellied female that distracted some of those looking for their first White-bellied Mountain-gems. Those rusty wing coverts are distinctive, even when the bird is facing away.
The blue eye of a Chestnut-headed Oropendola is always surprising. Photo by participant Janice White.
SNOWCAP (Microchera albocoronata) – Wow! The males in the vervain hedge at Kathy's put on a great show, and we saw others (males and females) bathing in the hummingbird pools. This is a range-restricted species, found only from southern Honduras to western Panama -- and Rancho is one of the best places on the planet to see it.
BLUE-CHESTED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia amabilis) – One of these small hummingbirds foraged at the top of a big yellow-flowered tree near the entrance to Universidad EARTH, though its feeding was regularly interrupted by some bully-boy Green-breasted Mangoes.
STEELY-VENTED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia saucerottei) – One on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, where they're not particularly common, on our first morning alternated between perching in a leafless tree and foraging in some nearby red flowers.
RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia tzacatl) – Probably the most common and widespread of the tour's hummingbirds, seen daily at a variety of altitudes and in a variety of habitats.
Trogonidae (Trogons)
RESPLENDENT QUETZAL (Pharomachrus mocinno) – A pair flashed in to some tall oaks near the big gully at Nochebuena -- super spotting, Heidi and Linda! Though they never sat in QUITE the right place -- making photo-taking a bit of a challenge -- we did get some nice scope views, particularly of the male. He appeared to have only a single long tail feather, and even that one was shorter than it will eventually be. After a few minutes, they flew off over the hill and away, leaving some big smiles in their wake.
SLATY-TAILED TROGON (Trogon massena) – We heard one calling from off in the forest at Universidad EARTH, but couldn't entice him close enough to see. [*]
GARTERED TROGON (Trogon caligatus) – Our first was a male perched high in a leafless tree near the far end of Rancho's pasture/guava orchard. Fortunately for those who'd opted out of the hike, we found another perched on a wire right over the entrance road on our drive down the hill to Casa Turire.
COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris) – First a male and then a female flew in while we tried to get a look at a Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant on the way back down the Manakin trail, giving us a great chance to study them for a while. We found another showy male along the Tapanti park road.
Momotidae (Motmots)
LESSON'S MOTMOT (Momotus lessonii lessonii) – Very common on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, with others making raids on the bananas at Rancho's feeders. As we saw with one of the latter birds, motmots' tail feathers look like "regular" feathers when they first grow in; they attain their distinctive racket shape only after repeated preening breaks the feathers down at some genetically determined weak spots.
RUFOUS MOTMOT (Baryphthengus martii) – Two at Wayne's house before breakfast one morning; one flew off nearly immediately, but the other hung around for a bit, giving us some nice views.
It's not often that you get such a clear view of the summit at Volcan Irazu! Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum) – A rather soggy individual sat on a big horizontal branch high above one of the suspension bridges at Universidad EARTH, seen as we walked across on our way in to the forest. We heard the soft "toy train whistle" call of this species on our way out to Rancho's pasture one morning.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata) – One flew past while we enjoyed the Torrent Tyrannulet on the Platanillo river, and another sat watchfully on a tree limb over the Turire reservoir. This is the New World's largest kingfisher.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
WHITE-NECKED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus hyperrhynchus) – A cooperative bird along the forest track at Universidad EARTH let us all have multiple long scope views -- nice spotting, Steve!
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda) – Those who ventured up into the pasture on our final morning at Rancho were rewarded with scope views of a male singing from a thicket down the hill into the next property. As someone mentioned, he looked like a giant hummingbird -- in fact one of his folk names in the Caribbean is King Hummingbird.
Semnornithidae (Toucan-Barbets)
PRONG-BILLED BARBET (Semnornis frantzii) – Arg! We heard at least three pairs of birds calling along the Tapanti park road, but couldn't find a single one. [*]
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
COLLARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus torquatus) – Our first was a roadside bird we spotted on our way down the last hill as we descended into the lowlands on our way to Universidad EARTH, but our best views came near the lake at CATIE, where we found a busy group milling through some fruiting trees.
YELLOW-THROATED TOUCAN (CHESTNUT-MANDIBLED) (Ramphastos ambiguus swainsonii) – Great views of several in a big open tree near the entrance to Universidad EARTH, with others at CATIE. This species was named when the former Chestnut-mandibled and Black-mandibled toucans were lumped.
KEEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos sulfuratus) – The most common and widespread of the tour's toucans, including a flock of nearly a dozen in some big trees near the Birris reservoir, and others croaking around the pasture at Rancho. We saw a few in the same trees as the previous species at Universidad EARTH, allowing nice comparisons.
Rancho's famous "moth sheet" attracts a bevy of nighttime visitors -- and the early morning birds that like such tasty tidbits. Photo by participant Mike Lacombe.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
ACORN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes formicivorus) – A busy gang swarmed around us as we birded a gully on the flanks of Volcan Irazu. One was excavating a nest hole, another was busily storing acorns, and a half dozen others investigated nearby tree branches.
BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes pucherani) – Especially nice views of a pair visiting the banana feeders at Rancho; it's not often you get to look at woodpeckers BELOW eye level!
HOFFMANN'S WOODPECKER (Melanerpes hoffmannii) – We had our best views of several in the garden at Hotel Bougainvillea before breakfast our first morning, with another at CATIE. This is the plainest-faced of the woodpeckers we saw on this tour.
HAIRY WOODPECKER (Picoides villosus) – One worked its way along the mossy branches of several big trees near the birdy gully at Nochebuena, on the slopes of Volcan Irazu. The subspecies found in Costa Rica -- extimus -- is quite dingy-looking compared to birds from further north.
GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus) – A few around Rancho, including one at Wayne's, and another in the pasture. We heard the high-pitched "shriek" of this species on several days around Rancho and at Tapanti.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus) – One flew in and landed in one of the Cecropia trees near the Rancho dining room during our first lunch there; it clung to the trunk and peered around, giving us a good chance to note its various field marks.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
BARRED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur ruficollis) – We heard the soft barking call of this species echoing from the forest while waiting for the action to start at the moth sheet one morning. [*]
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara cheriway) – Robin spotted our first, flapping along the roadside as we drove along the highway out of San Jose towards Volcan Irazu. We saw another in flight over the little marsh at Platanillo and more over the fields just outside Tapanti.
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima) – Singles on scattered days, including one flapping past the Hotel Bougainvillea while we gathered at the bus on our first morning, a few getting dive-bombed by smaller birds at Hacienda Oriente, and others over the pond at CATIE. This species was first recorded in Costa Rica in 1973, and as recently as 2007 was still unknown from the Caribbean slope.
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans) – We heard the far-off laughing call of this reptile-eating specialist from the Rancho balcony one morning, and heard another distant bird at Universidad EARTH. [*]
MERLIN (Falco columbarius) – One raked past as we birded the lake edge at CATIE, striking fear into the mob of swallows feeding in the area; they balled up into a nervous, twittering flock that stayed well above him. The Northern Jacanas on the lake also seemed pretty nervous; they all flew over to land right near us!
It's always fun to see flowers in December, particularly for those coming from places in the icy grip of winter. Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis) – One on a high tension wire near the Cachi reservoir interrupted our drive "home" from Finca Cristina (the coffee farm). Our fellow road users were surprisingly tolerant -- particularly since it appears that we piled out right at the best selfie spot! This species gets its common name from its favorite prey; it probably won't surprise you to learn it's most active at dawn and dusk.
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus) – One swooped down over the clearing at the entrance to Universidad EARTH, possibly pursuing a passing swift -- great spotting, Janice! In Costa Rica, this winter visitor is uncommon away from concentrations of waterfowl.
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
ORANGE-CHINNED PARAKEET (Brotogeris jugularis) – Small numbers at Universidad EARTH, typically in pairs, including two snuggling in a leafless tree along the main road, not far from the entrance gate. We saw others on the Rancho property -- though the birds in the Tuis valley are probably escaped captives rather than true wild birds.
BROWN-HOODED PARROT (Pyrilia haematotis) – Some of the gang heard (and/or briefly saw) a few fly past while we were at the moth sheet, and others had brief glimpses of another couple at Tapanti.
WHITE-CROWNED PARROT (Pionus senilis) – Very common this year, seen every day but our first. We had some nice perched studies of several along the Rancho entrance road, with other noisy birds flying past the balcony on several mornings. The all-white crown of this largely blue species is diagnostic.
RED-LORED PARROT (Amazona autumnalis) – Though we heard some close ones at Universidad EARTH, there were always some big trees between us and them. [*]
MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa) – This species was also heard at Universidad EARTH -- but only when we were in the tallest forest while we were looking for (and at) the Semiplumbeous Hawk. [*]
OLIVE-THROATED PARAKEET (AZTEC) (Eupsittula nana astec) – A couple of pairs flew past as we birded along the main road at Universidad EARTH. This species is smaller than the Crimson-fronted, and found only in the lowlands.
GREAT GREEN MACAW (Ara ambiguus) – We had a very satisfying encounter with at least a half dozen of these big parrots -- second only to the Hyacinth Macaw in size -- at Universidad EARTH, when we found them nibbling fruits (and each other) in a big Dipteryx tree in the tall forest patch there. We watched for at least 20 minutes while they courted and preened and clambered around in the tree.
CRIMSON-FRONTED PARAKEET (Psittacara finschi) – Easily the most common parakeet of the tour -- and one of the most common psittacids -- with noisy flocks flashing against the hillsides visible from the Rancho balcony each day and dozens more over the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea on our first morning. This, the country's largest parakeet, is a regional endemic found from southeastern Nicaragua to western Panama.
A Mottled Owl made a magical appearance after dinner one evening, gliding in to land right over our heads. Photo by participant Janice White.
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
RUFOUS-RUMPED ANTWREN (Euchrepomis callinota) – A male flitted through the canopy of a tree on the hillside along the Silent Mountain road, seen by the lucky few who got to the scopes before it disappeared into the leaves. That red rump patch is distinctive -- and eye-catching!
FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE (Cymbilaimus lineatus) – Harry and Steve spotted one in a viny tangle below a stand of bamboo on the lower part of Rancho's Manakin trail on the way up to the top of the hill. It was moving through with a big mixed flock.
RUSSET ANTSHRIKE (Thamnistes anabatinus) – We heard several calling from the trees along the Pepper trail, part of a mixed flock we found on our first day at Rancho, but we didn't actually lay eyes on one until later in the week, when we found a few with another big mixed flock along the Silent Mountain road. Those who climbed the Manakin trail spotted others there.
PLAIN ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus mentalis) – A pair moved methodically through the low brush around the moth sheet one morning, gleaning moths from the leaves and branches -- and avoiding the melee around the sheet itself.
CHECKER-THROATED ANTWREN (Epinecrophylla fulviventris) – A male and female with the mixed flock at the vine tangle by a big bamboo stand on the Manakin trail. We heard others in the forest beyond the moth sheet early one morning.
SLATY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula schisticolor) – Several birds with a mixed flock along the trail out to Rancho's forest feeders were pretty cooperative, moving low in the understory just uphill from where we stood.
DUSKY ANTBIRD (Cercomacroides tyrannina) – After hearing one calling from the gully beyond the moth sheet while enjoying the activity there one morning, those who climbed the Manakin trail caught up with a male the following day.
CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Poliocrania exsul) – We heard a pair calling from the taller forest at the edge of the clearing around the entrance gate at Universidad EARTH, while we birded from the parking lot near the restrooms. [*]
DULL-MANTLED ANTBIRD (Sipia laemosticta) – Two crept along a steep bank at the edge of the trail out to Rancho's forest feeders, flipping leaves off the forest floor and occasionally twitching out into the open.
ZELEDON'S ANTBIRD (Hafferia zeledoni) – We heard one calling from the forested hill on the far side of the river as we walked along the Silent Mountain road. [*]
Grallariidae (Antpittas)
THICKET ANTPITTA (Hylopezus dives) – Those who climbed the Manakin trail had a long conversation with one in an extensive patch of bamboo, but he clearly didn't want to be seen. He approached to within 30 feet or so, but never came closer -- despite Harry's best whistles! [*]
The cheeky little Red-tailed Squirrel was another regular raider of the banana feeders. Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus) – We heard the soft trilling song of one as we started our walk out towards the forest feeders at Rancho on the afternoon we visited the hummingbird pools. [*]
PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa) – Fine studies of a trio hunting around the Rancho moth sheet; they were the first woodcreepers in and stayed the longest. This one is well-named; it has no streaks, stripes or spots, except for a faint blackish mustachial stripe.
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus) – One of these small woodcreepers (it and the Olivaceous are Costa Rica's smallest) crept along the underside of several branches along Rancho's Pepper trail, part of a big mixed flock. We saw another near the visitor's center at Tapanti.
COCOA WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus susurrans) – We had brief views of a noisy bird along the forest track at Universidad EARTH but our best views came at the moth cloth a few mornings later, where one checked out the shelter posts and nearby trunks.
SPOTTED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius) – Another species seen well at the moth sheet, with another along the trail out to the forest feeders. The big pale eye ring and very spotty underparts help to identify this one.
BROWN-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (Campylorhamphus pusillus) – One of these distinctive woodcreepers sang and sang and sang from the forest along the Tapanti park road, but just wouldn't come out where we could see him. [*]
STREAK-HEADED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes souleyetii) – Scattered pairs on several days, including two creeping around in the big trees out in front of the balcony at Rancho, a few along the main road at Universidad EARTH and a couple hunting around the moth cloth. This medium-sized woodcreeper has a strongly-curved pale bill.
SPOT-CROWNED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes affinis) – Nice views of at least two with a mixed flock on the flanks of Volcan Irazu. This species replaces the previous one in the highlands.
PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus) – One with a mixed flock along the Pepper trail on our first afternoon (part of a big mixed flock) was clinging like a chickadee to a whole series of twigs and branches, often upside down. We saw another briefly near the moth sheet.
BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus ochrolaemus) – Super views of one gleaning the foliage around the moth cloth, sometimes descending right down to the ground.
SPOTTED BARBTAIL (Premnoplex brunnescens) – A couple of birds flicked through the dense, dark vegetation along the edge of the stream near the entrance to Tapanti NP, giving us some really fine views as they paused occasionally on open branches.
RUDDY TREERUNNER (Margarornis rubiginosus) – Only a lucky few happened to be looking in the right direction when one flew across the road while we birded near the chicken barbecue spot, and even fewer were looking in the right direction when Harry spotted it again as it worked through a dense tree.
RED-FACED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca erythrops) – Two clambered along some moss-covered branches in trees along the Tapanti park road, checking out the bromeliads as they went along. They were part of a mixed flock that included a LOT of Common Chlorospingus.
SLATY SPINETAIL (Synallaxis brachyura) – A pair showed magnificently in a little roadside marshy area near Platanillo, twitching through a roadside bush.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
GREENISH ELAENIA (Myiopagis viridicata) – Seen on several days during the tour -- including along the entrance road into Kathy's place, and along the Manakin trail -- but our best views came along the Silent Mountain road, where we found one foraging in a small tree right beside the road.
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster) – Two of these crested little open country flycatchers showed nicely near the entrance gate to Universidad EARTH, and others hunted near the little marsh at Platanillo.
MOUNTAIN ELAENIA (Elaenia frantzii) – One foraged low in the dense shrubbery at the start of a cattle trail on the flanks of Volcan Irazu -- nice spotting, Bill!
TORRENT TYRANNULET (Serpophaga cinerea) – One danced across the boulders in a stream along the Silent Mountain road, returning multiple times to a small branch that had fallen partly into the stream. After a few minutes, we discovered that it had a nest just above the branch. [N]
OLIVE-STRIPED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes olivaceus) – A few folks got quick looks at one skulking in the undergrowth near the Rancho forest feeders on our way back from exploring the Pepper trail, but most didn't see this one until we got to Tapanti, where we found another with a mixed flock along the park road.
We got to see just how useful those prehensile tails actually are to species like the Central American Spider Monkey. Photo by participant Janice White.
SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon superciliaris) – One with a mixed flock along the Pepper trail, with another along the Manakin trail. The dark "ear muff" of this species is distinctive.
PALTRY TYRANNULET (MISTLETOE) (Zimmerius vilissimus parvus) – Plenty of great looks at this little flycatcher, including one right over the parking lot at Rancho. This species has just recently (August 2018) been split and is now known as Mistletoe Tyrannulet; its range extends from Honduras through Panama into the extreme northwestern corner of Colombia.
SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus pileatus) – A few folks got a quick glimpse of one with a mixed flock along the Pepper trail, and those who climbed the Manakin trail heard another calling there. Our best looks (and they weren't much, to be honest) came along the Tapanti park road, where we briefly spotted one perched on a dead stick up the hill from where we stood.
NORTHERN BENTBILL (Oncostoma cinereigulare) – We heard the soft trilling call of this species along the forest track at Universidad EARTH. [*]
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum) – One creeping through the vervain hedge just outside Kathy's house showed really nicely. We saw others at Universidad EARTH and along the Silent Mountain road.
BLACK-HEADED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum nigriceps) – A calling bird popped up into a eucalyptus tree across Wayne's yard from where we stood on the patio, giving us the chance to study it in the scope.
EYE-RINGED FLATBILL (Rhynchocyclus brevirostris) – One of these well-named forest flycatchers flitted over our heads along Rancho's Pepper trail, showing all its salient field marks. Its easy to see how it got its name!
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens) – Especially nice views of one hunting along the Rancho entrance road our first morning, with another from the balcony. When the bird is seen well, its pale eye is distinctive.
WHITE-THROATED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus mystaceus) – One made a few splashing sorties into the little stream below the observation platform at Rancho's hummingbird pools.
SULPHUR-RUMPED FLYCATCHER (Myiobius sulphureipygius aureatus) – One flashed its bright rump near the little gully along the Pepper trail one morning (for the first few in line, anyway) and another bounced along the hedge line beyond the little marsh in Platanillo.
TAWNY-CHESTED FLYCATCHER (Aphanotriccus capitalis) – One sat on a horizontal vine right beside the moth sheet, making a few quick sallies to the sheet itself to grab a couple of moths before disappearing back off into the forest. This species is endemic to Costa Rica and Nicaragua, and is very uncommon in both places; Rancho is one of the best places in the world to see it!
OLIVE-SIDED FLYCATCHER (Contopus cooperi) – One sat atop a skinny dead tree at the top of the quarry along the Silent Mountain road, showing its darkly-vested chest nicely. It made several flashing sallies after prey, returning again and again to the same perch.
Puffbirds, like this White-throated, are close relatives of the kingfishers. Photo by participant Janice White.
TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus cinereus) – One hunted from a treetop along the road at Universidad EARTH, returning again and again to the same perch. This species is significantly shorter-winged than are its North American counterparts.
YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flaviventris) – Small numbers on most days, with especially nice views of one hunting around the moth sheet before breakfast one morning.
ACADIAN FLYCATCHER (Empidonax virescens) – One heard calling in the forest at Universidad EARTH. [*]
WHITE-THROATED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax albigularis) – Great views of one hunting in a little marsh near Platanillo. This little species is an altitudinal migrant, spending its summers at higher elevations.
BLACK-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax atriceps) – One in the gully near Nochebuena hunted from low branches near the dead tree where all the Acorn Woodpeckers hung out. This high-elevation specialist is certainly one of the more distinctive Empidonax flycatchers!
BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans) – Regular throughout, typically in pairs and always close to water -- including a few around the margins of the Birris reservoir and others hunting from the rocks in the middle of the stream along the Silent Mountain road.
LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus) – One perched atop a dead snag along the road at Universidad EARTH showed its long tail feathers to perfection; its mate had virtually no tail to speak of!
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus) – We heard the maniacal laughing song of this species near the entrance gate at Universidad EARTH. [*]
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer) – Quite common throughout, including a trio hunting around the moth sheet one morning. This is one of the smaller Myiarchus flycatchers.
GREAT CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus crinitus) – We heard a few of these winter visitors calling from around clearings in the taller forest at Universidad EARTH. [*]
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus) – Abundant throughout, particularly along roadside wires, with good scope studies of a shouting bird on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea our first morning.
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua) – Less common than the previous species, but seen well along several wood edges, including two along the Rancho entrance road and others in the pasture. The lack of rufous in the wings and tail -- and the "Cyrano de Bergerac" beak -- help to distinguish it from the previous species.
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis) – Another common and widespread species, with nice comparisons with Great Kiskadee on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea. As its name suggests, this one is typically found in groups.
GRAY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes granadensis) – Seen and heard most days, with some good scope studies of them along the Silent Mountain road.
The spectacular Scarlet-rumped Tanager is back, created from the "lumping" of the Passerini's and Cherrie's tanagers. Photo by participant Janice White.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus) – Abundant, sprinkled on telephone wires and treetops throughout.
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROW (Querula purpurata) – We heard the bubbling, musical songs of this species right before lunch while we birded in the forest at Universidad EARTH, but just couldn't whistle them out into the open. [*]
SNOWY COTINGA (Carpodectes nitidus) – Harry spotted us a female perched atop a tree below the Great Green Macaws. This regional endemic is found only from northern Honduras to western Panama, and is uncommon in the Caribbean lowlands of Costa Rica.
Pipridae (Manakins)
WHITE-RUFFED MANAKIN (Corapipo altera) – A male seen nicely on the descent from the Manakin trail, part of a mixed flock, though a little gap in the trees. He was feeding in a fruiting tree.
WHITE-COLLARED MANAKIN (Manacus candei) – A male at Wayne's house, in the tree right over our heads while we waited for the Rufous Motmot to make an appearance. Some saw another zip past the Rancho balcony one morning.
WHITE-CROWNED MANAKIN (Dixiphia pipra) – Unfortunately, we only had a single female -- and she didn't give us a very good view. They're not on their lek at the moment; it appears that their breeding season is shifting somewhat later in the year.
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata) – Our first (a male) sat among the fronds of a stand of bamboo near the entrance to Universidad EARTH -- great spotting, Sharon! We had another pair along the Silent Mountain road and still more near the little marsh at Platanillo.
CINNAMON BECARD (Pachyramphus cinnamomeus) – Our best views came from the Rancho balcony, where one of these rufous little birds whistled from an open treetop before breakfast one morning. We saw another with a big mixed flock in the pasture later that same morning.
WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus) – A female along the Silent Mountain road, not far from the little village, and a male at Wayne's singing in the trees above the feeders.
ROSE-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus aglaiae) – A young male -- not yet showing a rose throat -- moved through one of the big trees in the garden at the Hotel Bougainvillea our first morning.
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
TAWNY-CROWNED GREENLET (Tunchiornis ochraceiceps) – Those who hiked the Manakin trail heard one calling in the forest; unfortunately, it proved frustratingly elusive. This species is often the leader of mixed flocks. [*]
The female Green-breasted Mango sports a distinctive racing stripe. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
LESSER GREENLET (Pachysylvia decurtata) – Small numbers on scattered days throughout, with especially nice views of a few from the Rancho balcony our first morning there. They resemble chubby, stubby Nashville Warblers, though with less yellow underparts.
YELLOW-THROATED VIREO (Vireo flavifrons) – A common winter visitor, seen every day but one. The bird we spotted in the big dead tree in the garden of the Hotel Bougainvillea was particularly easy to see.
YELLOW-WINGED VIREO (Vireo carmioli) – A few flicked through a big oak right near the bridge from which we found our Long-tailed Silky-Flycatchers, and we found another one or two with a little mixed flock near the Tapanti visitor's center.
PHILADELPHIA VIREO (Vireo philadelphicus) – A few on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, with others from the balcony at Rancho.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
BROWN JAY (Psilorhinus morio) – Daily, often in sizable numbers, with great views of many around the Rancho buildings. We saw plenty of youngsters, which can be distinguished by their yellow bills and bold yellow eye rings.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca) – Abundant, with particularly nice views of many hunting low over the gardens at Kathy's house (Rancho Bajo) on our morning's visit there. This is the common swallow in the foothills and highlands of Costa Rica.
NORTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx serripennis) – Common throughout, including big group hunting low down over the water at one end of the Birris reservoir and scores more over the grassy roadside at Universidad EARTH. This is a winter visitor from further north.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis) – Less common than the previous species, and much less likely to be found in big numbers. A few along the wires at Universidad EARTH showed the distinctively pale rumps and buffy faces that help to separate them from their northern cousins.
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea) – Good numbers of these big hirundines -- the size and shape of Purple Martins -- were sprinkled on the wires (and occasionally flashing out after prey) along the highway we traversed en route to Universidad EARTH.
MANGROVE SWALLOW (Tachycineta albilinea) – Dozens fluttered low over some soccer fields near the chapel where we had our lunch at Universidad EARTH, showing their bold white rump patches nicely.
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica) – Small numbers among the more widespread swallow species on a couple of days; this species is far more common during migration than it is during the winter, as most head further south.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
SCALY-BREASTED WREN (WHISTLING) (Microcerculus marginatus luscinia) – We heard the evocative, falling scales song of this elusive species while birding at the moth sheet one morning, and those who climbed the Manakin trail heard another there. [*]
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon) – Regular throughout, including one flicking through a nearby hedge at Hacienda Oriente and another pair flashing back and forth through some fruiting trees near the horse pasture at Rancho.
OCHRACEOUS WREN (Troglodytes ochraceus) – We heard them calling on each of our visits to Volcan Irazu, but it took until our last morning at Tapanti to actually lay eyes on one of these small wrens.
TIMBERLINE WREN (Thryorchilus browni) – Arg! We were SO CLOSE to a pair in the dense shrubbery at the summit of Volcan Irazu. They showed pretty well for some, in fits and starts for others, and not at all for the unlucky few.
RUFOUS-NAPED WREN (Campylorhynchus rufinucha) – A handful crawled through several of the flowering bushes on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, calling gruffly to each other. This species is most common in the country's dry northwest corner.
BLACK-THROATED WREN (Pheugopedius atrogularis) – Two in the tangle just behind where Wayne runs his insect light gave us some nice views as they worked their way lower, regularly hanging upside down and poking and prodding various dead leaf clusters.
STRIPE-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus thoracicus) – We heard them on many days around Rancho, but only those who climbed the Manakin trail actually spotted them.
CABANIS'S WREN (Cantorchilus modestus) – Heard on several days, but not seen. [*]
BAY WREN (Cantorchilus nigricapillus) – Two near the staff table just beside the Rancho dining room for the folks who climbed the Manakin trail -- the last new birds they saw as they came back for lunch.
Participant Rick Woodruff got this shot of a Great Green Macaw in a rather unusual position -- having just launched itself off a branch.
WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucosticta) – Wonderful views of a pair bouncing around under the moth sheet, looking for tasty morsels. Normally, this skulking (but loud) species can be remarkably tough to see, so it's always a treat to get them in the open. Their duets were a regular part of the tour soundtrack.
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys) – Two twitching through some bushes in the shady gully near Nochebuena on Volcan Irazu were a bit elusive, often seen as little more than silhouettes. We heard them regularly in the mountains, both there and at Tapanti.
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
TROPICAL GNATCATCHER (Polioptila plumbea) – One near the larger suspension bridge at Universidad EARTH, and another with a mixed flock along the Silent Mountain road.
Cinclidae (Dippers)
AMERICAN DIPPER (Cinclus mexicanus) – One bounced along a rocky stream bed at Tapanti, occasionally sitting still long enough that we could get it in the scope -- though a few folks also got to see it fling itself into the water and swim downstream.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
BLACK-FACED SOLITAIRE (Myadestes melanops) – A couple of rather furtive birds worked along the Tapanti park road, not far from the waterfall overlook. We also had a nice serenade from this wonderful singer a bit further up the mountain.
BLACK-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus gracilirostris) – Fabulous looks at several of these high-elevation Chiriqui endemics in the fruiting trees around Nochebuena. They were certainly the easiest of the nightingale-thrushes to actually lay eyes on -- this tour at least!
ORANGE-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus aurantiirostris) – We heard the abrupt song of this species on several days -- on Irazu and in the little marsh at Platanillo -- but didn't see it either time. [*]
SLATY-BACKED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus fuscater) – Heard calling distantly a few times at Tapanti. [*]
SWAINSON'S THRUSH (Catharus ustulatus) – One heard at Wayne's on our pre-breakfast outing there, with another heard at Tapanti on our last full day. [*]
WOOD THRUSH (Hylocichla mustelina) – Another one that was heard-only for the folks who ventured down to Wayne's. [*]
SOOTY THRUSH (Turdus nigrescens) – Regular on Volcan Irazu, including a few flashing through the paramo along the edges of the main crater and others in the fruiting trees in the big gully near Nochebuena.
MOUNTAIN THRUSH (Turdus plebejus) – A couple sat up briefly across the road from the gas station in Pacayas, where we stopped to use the facilities on our second visit up to Volcan Irazu. This species looks a lot like the Clay-colored Thrush, but has a dark bill and less muddy-brown plumage.
Lesson's Motmot is another "new" species, recently split from the former Blue-crowned Motmot complex. Photo by participant Janice White.
CLAY-COLORED THRUSH (Turdus grayi) – Daily, including scope studies of our first birds at Hotel Bougainvillea. This is Costa Rica's national bird.
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus gilvus) – Two proved reasonably showy along a field edge at Hacienda Oriente. This species isn't particularly common along our tour route.
Ptiliogonatidae (Silky-flycatchers)
BLACK-AND-YELLOW SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Phainoptila melanoxantha) – Several foraged low in bushes right near where we stood in a gully on the slopes of Volcan Irazu. The male was particularly cooperative, sitting for long minutes right out in the open. Wow!
LONG-TAILED SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Ptiliogonys caudatus) – An active group chased each other around in some treetops near a bridge on the road up to Volcan Irazu, occasionally perching right up on top. Like the previous species, this one is related to North America's Phainopepla.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis) – One waggled across the wet floor of a dank little cattle barn on the Silent Mountain road, and we spotted another along the road near Tapanti.
GOLDEN-WINGED WARBLER (Vermivora chrysoptera) – Costa Rica is clearly the wintering grounds for many of this declining species; we saw both males and females on four days of the tour, including several foraging in the trees right off Rancho's balcony.
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia) – Small numbers with mixed flocks on several days, including a few investigating trunks and branches along Rancho's entrance drive and a few near the Tapanti visitor's center.
PROTHONOTARY WARBLER (Protonotaria citrea) – One along the edge of the lake at CATIE was unexpectedly high, giving us a view of its underside -- which isn't the side you normally see!
FLAME-THROATED WARBLER (Oreothlypis gutturalis) – A few of these gorgeous birds mingled among a big mixed flock in the gully near Nochebuena on the flanks of Volcan Irazu. This is another endemic of the Chiriqui highlands of Costa Rica and western Panama.
TENNESSEE WARBLER (Oreothlypis peregrina) – One of the most common warblers of the tour, seen every day but one -- including a few drab birds on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea our first morning and others from the Rancho balcony.
GRAY-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis poliocephala) – One singing from a treetop near the little marsh where we found our White-throated Flycatcher allowed nice scope studies.
A Barn Owl stretches the important bits. Photo by participant Janice White.
MOURNING WARBLER (Geothlypis philadelphia) – One made multiple visits to one of the platform feeders below the Rancho balcony on a few mornings.
KENTUCKY WARBLER (Geothlypis formosa) – We heard the distinctive "chip" of one calling along the forest track at Universidad EARTH, but never connected with it, which is a bit surprising on this tour -- normally we see one somewhere. [*]
OLIVE-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis semiflava) – A couple of birds in the marshy fringe at Lago Turire, including one occasionally singing male that flitted closer and closer through the water hyacinth leaves.
AMERICAN REDSTART (Setophaga ruticilla) – A female or young male (we didn't see its face well enough to be sure which) with a mixed flock along Rancho's Pepper trail, and another flycatching in the guava trees in the pasture. Those who ventured down to Wayne's before breakfast one morning were rewarded with a male.
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi) – Our best views came along the Silent Mountain road, where we found two birds checking out Cecropia trees right beside the road. Some of the group saw another briefly along the Rancho entrance road.
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER (Setophaga fusca) – Another reasonably common species recorded on most days, often fairly high in the canopy of some of the bigger trees -- like those visible from the Rancho balcony.
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia) – A female with a mixed flock on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, another female with the Prothonotary Warbler at CATIE, and a male at Universidad EARTH.
CHESTNUT-SIDED WARBLER (Setophaga pensylvanica) – Now we know where all of North America's Chestnut-sided Warblers go for the winter! This was easily the most common warbler of the tour, and we saw just about every possible plumage variation -- from very drab, chestnut-less young females to quite strikingly-flanked adult males.
TOWNSEND'S WARBLER (Setophaga townsendi) – One flicked along moss-covered tree branches in one of the beautiful oaks on the flank of Volcan Irazu, seen while we searched for Large-footed Finch. This is a very uncommon winter visitor to Costa Rica.
BLACK-THROATED GREEN WARBLER (Setophaga virens) – Singles with a couple of mixed flocks on Volcan Irazu.
RUFOUS-CAPPED WARBLER (Basileuterus rufifrons) – Those who visited Wayne's before breakfast one morning had especially nice views of a busy pair gleaning moths from the underbrush around the feeders. We saw others along the Rancho entrance road and at Tapanti, and Janice spotted some along the forest trail one afternoon.
BLACK-CHEEKED WARBLER (Basileuterus melanogenys) – Stupendous views of two along the road up Volcan Irazu. They twitched through low vegetation near a little stream, eventually working their way to within a few yards of where we stood. What a gorgeous little bird!
GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (Basileuterus culicivorus) – One bathed in one of the hummingbird pools at Rancho, returning several times to really splash around at the water's edge.
Something about the yellow eye of the Volcano Junco, perched here on a giant Gunnera leaf, looks rather crazed. Photo by participant Janice White.
COSTA RICAN WARBLER (Basileuterus melanotis) – Two with a mixed flock along the Tapanti park road showed well. This species has been split from the Three-striped Warbler and is now another Chiriqui endemic.
BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis fulvicauda) – We heard one calling repeatedly along the little stream where we found our first Spotted Barbtails, but it was far enough around the bend that we couldn't see it. [*]
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla) – Regular throughout, including a few flashing like bits of sunshine in the shadowed gully near Nochebuena on Mount Irazu.
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus) – Our first were with a big mixed flock along the Silent Mountain road, but our best views came on the drive in to Tapanti NP, when we found a busy pair hunting right along the road.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Tachyphonus luctuosus) – Pairs seen with two different mixed flocks on the Rancho property, with another pair in a mixed flock along the Silent Mountain road. The white shoulder is very obvious on the jet-black males; females are pale gray and yellow.
TAWNY-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus delatrii) – Arg! They were calling just across the river as we started our walk down the Silent Mountain road from the quarry, but they quickly vanished up the hill without us ever laying eyes on them. [*]
WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus) – Seen on several days, with our best views coming in the little marsh near Platanillo, where several black males and rusty females swirled along the fence line at the edge of the sugar cane field.
PASSERINI'S TANAGER (Ramphocelus passerinii) – Very common throughout, including a gang of six males chasing one hapless female along the edge of the banana plantation at Universidad EARTH, eliciting a firework display's worth of "oohs". This one has recently been lumped with the former's Cherrie's Tanager and is now called Scarlet-rumped Tanager again.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus) – Another common species, typically in pairs. A partially-leucistic bird on the Rancho property -- flashing big white wing patches -- was certainly eye-catching.
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum) – Common and widespread, and seen on most days.
SPECKLED TANAGER (Ixothraupis guttata) – Surprisingly common this year, including a little group with a mixed flock along Rancho's Pepper trail, others with a flock along the Silent Mountain road, a few nibbling fruit in Rancho's pasture and others at Tapanti.
GOLDEN-HOODED TANAGER (Tangara larvata) – Plenty of good looks at these handsome birds, including some right from the balcony at Rancho and others along the entrance road there.
SPANGLE-CHEEKED TANAGER (Tangara dowii) – Fine views of several busy groups along the Tapanti park road. Their pink bellies are distinctive.
PLAIN-COLORED TANAGER (Tangara inornata) – Two in a treetop along the main road at Universidad EARTH gave us the chance to study them in the scopes. They're certainly well-named -- plain is right!
We got to see how the long toes of the Northern Jacana allow it to balance on surface vegetation. Video by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola) – These, on the other hand, are a veritable palette of colors. They're often in flocks with Speckled and Silver-throated tanagers, as we saw along the Pepper trail.
EMERALD TANAGER (Tangara florida) – A few of these gorgeous tanagers fairly distantly along the Silent Mountain road, with much closer birds at the edge of the Rancho pasture. What a stunner!
SILVER-THROATED TANAGER (Tangara icterocephala) – Reasonably common around Rancho, with others at Tapanti. The mostly yellow plumage of this species is distinctive.
SCARLET-THIGHED DACNIS (Dacnis venusta) – Regular around Rancho, including some showy birds near the horse pasture on our first morning and others along the entrance road. The scarlet thighs on the males are hard to see -- though one or two said they caught a flash.
GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza) – Robin spotted our first, just outside Kathy's "Rancho Bajo", and we saw others along the entrance road and with a big mixed flock in the pasture. The male is really more of a gorgeous turquoise than he is green.
BLACK-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Chrysothlypis chrysomelas) – Unfortunately distant views of several swirling from tree to tree on the hillside beyond the river along the Silent Mountain road. The color was hard to miss, even with the distance!
SLATY FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa plumbea) – Very common on Volcan Irazu, regularly distracting us in our search for Timberline Wrens and Volcano Juncos. They're nectar thieves, using that sharply-hooked beak to poke their way into tubular flowers -- without pollinating the plant.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina) – Small numbers flicked along the grassy edges of the main road through the Universidad EARTH campus, and one male demonstrated the endearing little song jumps that give the species its common folk name -- "Johnny Jump Up".
THICK-BILLED SEED-FINCH (Sporophila funerea) – A few of the group spotted a female among the Variable Seedeaters early on our day at Universidad EARTH, but most had to wait until our day along the Silent Mountain road, where we saw several (both males and females) perched up. This species strongly resembles the next, but has a larger bill with a straight culmen.
VARIABLE SEEDEATER (Sporophila corvina) – Regular in more open areas from Universidad EARTH (where a pair near the entrance gate entertained us while we waited for the restrooms) to the fields near the entrance to Tapanti.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola) – A few scattered individuals, including a couple probing the vervain flowers in the hedges around Kathy's and one with a mixed flock at Tapanti.
YELLOW-FACED GRASSQUIT (Tiaris olivaceus) – Especially fine views of several rummaging in the grass under the feeders at Rancho, with others in grassy areas along the Silent Mountain road and at Tapanti.
BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus) – A little group of these checked out the banana feeder at Rancho on our first morning, showing their distinctive black-bordered buffy throat patches nicely.
BLACK-HEADED SALTATOR (Saltator atriceps) – Our first were a group milling through the shrubbery across from the gas station where we stopped on our way up Volcan Irazu, but our best looks came along the Silent Mountain road, where a noisy group worked through roadside trees. We had others at Hacienda Oriente.
Some showy Rufous Motmots were a treat at Wayne's early one morning. Photo by participant Janice White.
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens) – A half dozen or so of these noisy birds bounced through bushes in the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, nibbling on various fruits and flowers and giving us multiple chances to study their bold white eyebrows and peachy vents.
Passerellidae (New World Buntings and Sparrows)
ASHY-THROATED CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus canigularis) – Those who climbed Rancho's Manakin trail heard some calling from the forest while working through a mixed flock.
SOOTY-CAPPED CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus pileatus) – Great studies of a busy gang swarming through the trees in a gully on the flanks of Volcan Irazu. This species was formerly known as "Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager".
COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus flavopectus) – Almost ridiculously common at Tapanti, making up the bulk of just about every group of birds we found.
BLACK-STRIPED SPARROW (Arremonops conirostris) – One flicked along the living fence line at the back of a little marsh near Platanillo, and another lurked under the feeders at Wayne's.
ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon aurantiirostris) – Superb views of a couple under the feeders at Rancho on our first morning. This is one species that is very well-named!
SOOTY-FACED FINCH (Arremon crassirostris) – We heard several birds singing from the dense undergrowth along the Tapanti park road, but could never entice one out for a look. [*]
VOLCANO JUNCO (Junco vulcani) – One hopped around on the weedy edge of the parking lot at the top of Volcan Irazu, then flew up to sit on one of the giant Gunnera leaves for a while. This species is a Chiriqui endemic, found only in the highlands of Costa Rica and western Panama.
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis) – Regular in the highlands, with dozens singing from fence posts all the way up Irazu and others along the Silent Mountain road and on the road into Tapanti. This is a very widespread species, found all the way down to the southern tip of South America.
LARGE-FOOTED FINCH (Pezopetes capitalis) – A couple skulked under the shrubs on the edge of the gully at Nochebuena, scratching at the leaf litter and showing themselves in bits and pieces. This is another Chiriqui endemic, found only in the highlands of Costa Rica and western Panama.
WHITE-EARED GROUND-SPARROW (Melozone leucotis) – One rummaged in a flower border on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea our first morning, giving us great opportunity to study it in the scopes.
Mitrospingidae (Mitrospingid Tanagers)
DUSKY-FACED TANAGER (Mitrospingus cassinii) – A small noisy group worked through some thick vegetation along the edge of the road through the forest at Universidad EARTH, eventually flitting across the road into some even closer weeds in a scruffy field.
Red-throated Ant-Tanagers were enthusiastic visitors to the moth sheet. Photo by participant Janice White.
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
SUMMER TANAGER (Piranga rubra) – Seen or heard on every day but one -- we somehow missed them the first day. There were regular visitors to Rancho's banana feeders, including a young male that was an interesting combination of yellow and red.
FLAME-COLORED TANAGER (Piranga bidentata) – Some of the group spotted a bright male high in one of the moss-covered trees over the gully at Nochebuena. Unfortunately, he didn't stay in view long enough for everybody to find the right tree.
RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGER (Habia fuscicauda) – The birds gleaning moths from the benches and vegetation around the moth sheet gave us especially nice views. We had others elsewhere on the Rancho property, plus some at Universidad EARTH and Cafe Cristina.
CARMIOL'S TANAGER (Chlorothraupis carmioli) – A gang along Rancho's Pepper trail checked out some berrying bushes as they passed by with a big mixed flock. Those who went down to the hummingbird pools saw them again as they came in to the stream to bathe.
BLACK-THIGHED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus tibialis) – A lucky few got quick glimpses of one Harry spotted along the Tapanti park road -- though some didn't see it until it flew off in a flurry of black and white wings. This is another Chiriqui endemic.
ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus ludovicianus) – A female near the edge of the Birris reservoir was seen by a few of the group when she perched up briefly near the top of a tree. This is a winter visitor to Costa Rica.
BLUE-BLACK GROSBEAK (Cyanoloxia cyanoides) – We heard the lovely melodious whistle of this species echoing from the dense forest beyond the banana plantation at Universidad EARTH. [*]
BLUE GROSBEAK (Passerina caerulea) – A male sat perched up on some roadside vegetation in the Tuis valley, adding some color to our first Bronzed Cowbird stop. This is a rare winter visitor.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
EASTERN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella magna) – A couple sat up on fence posts in the horse pastures at Hacienda Oriente.
RED-BREASTED MEADOWLARK (Sturnella militaris) – A male chased a female around a weedy field at Hacienda Oriente -- though she didn't appear to be at all interested! This species was recently renamed; it used to be known as "Red-breasted Blackbird".
CHESTNUT-HEADED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius wagleri) – Less common than the next species, but still recorded on most days. Its smaller size and ivory-colored bill help to separate it from its larger, orange-billed, silver-cheeked cousin.
MONTEZUMA OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius montezuma) – Abundant throughout, including a few males doing wing-shaking, tail-pointing somersaults out in front of the Rancho balcony and others carrying mouthfuls of nesting material to their burgeoning colonial nest trees along the Silent Mountain road. [N]
BLACK-COWLED ORIOLE (Icterus prosthemelas) – Small numbers seen in several places at Universidad EARTH, including a couple of them glowing among the dark vegetation of a roadside tree where we stopped for our Plain-colored Tanagers.
The White-nosed Coati was yet another regular visitor to the Rancho banana feeders. Photo by participant Rick Woodruff.
ORCHARD ORIOLE (Icterus spurius) – A half dozen or so moved among the top branches of a big tree along the main road at Universidad EARTH. This is a common passage migrant in Costa Rica, but quite a rare winter resident.
BALTIMORE ORIOLE (Icterus galbula) – Common throughout, seen every day but the last, including a few colorful birds flashing through the big dead tree in the garden of the Hotel Bougainvillea. This is another winter visitor.
BRONZED COWBIRD (Molothrus aeneus) – Scores sat on roadside wires along the road through the Tuis valley, so one day with little traffic, we pulled up beside them for a look. Like the next species, this one has a big red eye.
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus) – Small numbers in open habitats through much of the tour, including a few wandering among the horses at Hacienda Oriente and one visiting the feeders at Wayne's house.
MELODIOUS BLACKBIRD (Dives dives) – A few on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea, including one taking a bath in one of the fountains. This is a relatively recent arrival to Costa Rica, first recorded in 1987.
GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus) – If we had a dollar for every one we saw, we could probably have paid for our trips! The mob feeding near the Birris reservoir was particularly impressive.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
GOLDEN-BROWED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia callophrys) – A female flitting through the guava trees in Rancho's pasture gave those who didn't climb the mountain some truly lovely views; indeed, she made it onto the "top three" list of everybody who saw her!
YELLOW-CROWNED EUPHONIA (Euphonia luteicapilla) – After hearing them on several days, we connected with a handsome male singing from a treetop near the banana peel dump at Universidad EARTH.
YELLOW-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia hirundinacea) – As with the previous species, we heard them on several days before those who didn't climb the Manakin trail finally spotted a pair foraging in the mistletoe festooning a big tree in Rancho's pasture.
OLIVE-BACKED EUPHONIA (Euphonia gouldi) – Seen nicely on several days around the Rancho property, including some visiting the banana feeders and others gobbling berries in some fruiting trees near the horse pasture.
WHITE-VENTED EUPHONIA (Euphonia minuta) – A male, perched and singing from a treetop over the parking lot at Rancho on our first morning there got our walk down the entrance road off to a good start. We saw others on the Silent Mountain road and in the Rancho pasture.
TAWNY-CAPPED EUPHONIA (Euphonia anneae) – Our best looks came at Tapanti, where we found pairs with several of the mixed flocks we encountered. We also had small numbers around Rancho and on the Silent Mountain road. This is a regional endemic, found from Costa Rica to northwestern Colombia.
LESSER GOLDFINCH (Spinus psaltria) – A few along the edge of the road on the drive up to Volcan Irazu on our second visit, with another couple along the edge of the parking lot for some.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) – Small numbers along the road in several of the built-up areas we passed through during the week. This species isn't particularly common in Costa Rica. [I]
MAMMALS
LONG-NOSED BAT (Rhynchonycteris naso) – Several dozen hung from the roof of the open-air chapel at Universidad EARTH; this species always sits with their front legs braced against whatever they're clinging to, which makes them look like little stars.
MANTLED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta palliata) – We heard the growling calls of this tropical species in the forest at Universidad EARTH, but they were never particularly close to where we were. [*]
CENTRAL AMERICAN SPIDER MONKEY (Ateles geoffroyi) – Super views of some very acrobatic individuals at Universidad EARTH, including a few that made some impressive leaps across the road, and others swinging hand-over-hand through the trees.
VARIEGATED SQUIRREL (Sciurus variegatoides) – Particularly common around Rancho's banana feeders each morning; they wrestled whole bananas off the feeders, looking like they were sporting giant yellow mustaches. There are 14 subspecies found in Central America, including 5 in Costa Rica alone!
Ernesto talks coffee -- and we all learn why we should be drinking organic, shade-grown! Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
RED-TAILED SQUIRREL (Sciurus granatensis) – A few of these smaller squirrels also visited Rancho's feeders, and proved equally successful at carting away some bananas.
MONTANE SQUIRREL (Syntheosciurus brochus) – One in the gully near Nochebuena, seen as we searched from the edge of the road for Large-footed Finches.
DUSKY RICE RAT (Melanomys caliginosus) – One of these small rodents made several furtive dashes out to grab a mouthful of corn from the lawn at Rancho, where it had been sprinkled for the birds. The dark pelage and stubby, rounded nose of this species help to identify it.
CENTRAL AMERICAN AGOUTI (Dasyprocta punctata) – One stepped cautiously across the lawn under the feeders at Rancho, keeping a wary eye on us as we juggled our lunch plates and binoculars.
WHITE-NOSED COATI (Nasua narica) – One raided the banana feeders at Rancho on a couple of mornings, and another marched around the parking area and picnic tables at Volcan Irazu, checking for fallen scraps and handouts.
NEOTROPICAL OTTER (Lontra longicaudis) – Steve spotted one from the big suspension bridge at Universidad EARTH; unfortunately, it quickly disappeared.
WHITE-TAILED DEER (Odocoileus virginianus) – A doe grazed along the edge of a small open field at Universidad EARTH.
Herps
GROUND ANOLE (Anolis humilis) – This species, also known as the Common Ground Anole, was spotted along the Pepper trail.
GREEN IGUANA (Iguana iguana) – Some truly massive individuals at Universidad EARTH and CATIE, including some rather orange adult males.
SPECTACLED CAIMAN (Caiman crocodilus) – One lurked along the edge of the little lake at CATIE, looking a bit like a submerged log.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Totals for the tour: 323 bird taxa and 11 mammal taxa