I love spending Christmas in the tropics, and I can think of no better place to be over the holidays than Rancho Naturalista. Not only is it something of a homecoming for me, but the combo of great birds, comfortable accommodations, and superb food and service make this tour a perennial favorite among our holiday tours.
We started things off right by finding a trio of what was a much-wanted bird for many of the group, Resplendent Quetzal, on the slopes of Irazu. The supporting cast of Fiery-throated and Volcano hummingbirds, Black-billed and Ruddy-capped nightingale-thrushes, Timberline Wren, Volcano Junco, and a stunner of a Flame-throated Warbler helped brighten up a rather gray, drizzly day. A stop in the town of Paraiso tripled our owl count, adding Barn Owl and Tropical Screech-owl to the Mottled Owls we'd already tallied on the grounds of the Hotel Bougainvillea!
The next few mornings found us convening on the balcony for an early morning coffee as we enjoyed exquisite Lesson's Motmots, comical Collared Aracaris and Montezuma Oropendolas, and frenetic, feisty White-necked Jacobins, and a plethora of others at the feeders below. Then, after a delicious, filling breakfast, we explored the lodge property and surrounding areas. The lovely grounds of CATIE offered up bizarre Boat-billed Herons, a huge Ringed Kingfisher, and a surprisingly cooperative Black-crowned Antshrike. At Casa Turire we saw Snail Kites, Limpkins, and Olive-crowned Yellowthroat along the lakeshore, and Giant Cowbird, the stunning Red-breasted Meadowlark, and Gray-crowned Yellowthroat in the scrubby pastures. A walk up the Rio Tuis valley gave us Tawny-crested and Black-and-yellow tanagers, Broad-billed Motmot, and the big target, some energetic male Snowcaps! And the Silent Mountain Road was highlighted by a cute little Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher and some gorgeous tanagers, including Bay-headed, Emerald, and Speckled. Another major target, the incomparable Sunbittern, was seen incredibly well several times, including 3 birds together along one stream!
Closer to home, home being Rancho in this case, we enjoyed a morning at the moth cloth with voracious Red-throated Ant-tanagers, White-breasted Wood-wrens, and Fawn-throated Foliage-gleaners forsaking their secretive tendencies to gorge themselves on the numerous insects that showed up at the light overnight. We worked hard to track down Rufous-tailed Jacamars, Black-throated Wrens, and the tiny, canopy-dwelling Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher along the driveway. And we put in some time at Rancho Bajo's flowering hedges for more Snowcaps and a fantastic male Black-crested Coquette. And rounding out our stay at the lodge, we ventured into the upper pasture to search (successfully!) for a scrumptious male Lovely Cotinga that had been hanging around! It was a fitting finale to a fabulous stay at Rancho!
We also ventured further afield on a couple of days, with a visit to the Caribbean lowlands providing many highlights that made the very early start worthwhile. A roadside Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth was a wonderful omen as we approached the Manu Forest Reserve, and our time there was highlighted by many toucans, both Keel-billed and Yellow-throated, a noisy flock of Black-faced Grosbeaks, the uncommon Rufous-winged Woodpecker, and a pair of lanky Russet-naped Wood-Rails foraging on the leaf-covered roof of a small shed! From there, we entered the incredible oasis that is Donde Cope, where Cope's feeders were bustling with activity, with Orange-chinned Parakeets, Red-legged, Green, and Shining Honeycreepers, Long-billed Hermit, and an unexpected Band-tailed Barbthroat among many others, A female American Pygmy-Kingfisher at his tiny pond was another surprise there! And before we headed back, Cope took us on a muddy slog through a nearby forest patch for more owls, a pair of Crested Owls, which we were expecting, and a Black-and-white Owl, which was a wonderful surprise! Then, on our final day, we hit the cloud forest habitat at Rio Macho forest reserve where birds like Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher, White-winged Tanager, Prong-billed Barbet, Streaked Xenops, and Black-bellied Hummingbird were among the many additions to our trip list.
It was wonderful to be back at Rancho, and I was so happy to be able to share this special place with you all at this special time of year. I hope the memories of all those birds, the friendly, attentive service, the scrumptious meals, including that delicious Christmas Eve turkey feast, along with the delightful live music, and the companionship of a congenial bunch of fellow travelers, will warm you through the coming winter months, as it will me. Thanks so much for joining us, and special thanks to my awesome co-leader and good friend, Vernon, and our equally awesome driver, Luis, for all they did to make this a fantastic trip!
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)
A flock of 8 sat on a bench next to the pond in front of the Casa Turire, drawn in by the grain that had been put there, likely for the domestic Muscovy Ducks.
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)
In addition to the tame birds (including a hen with 7 cute little ones), there were a couple of wild type birds seen flying over the far side of the Angosturra Reservoir.
LESSER SCAUP (Aythya affinis) [b]
A couple of distant birds scoped on the far side of the reservoir.
GRAY-HEADED CHACHALACA (Ortalis cinereiceps)
A large troop of these game birds, 20+ strong, were daily visitors at the backyard feeders at Rancho.
CRESTED GUAN (Penelope purpurascens)
Formerly these large birds were quite wary and difficult to see due to hunting pressures, but after many years without hunting, they've become much more numerous and less shy. We saw a pair of birds right near the lodge one morning, then 4 birds calling and chasing each other through the tree tops on our afternoon cotinga quest.
BUFFY-CROWNED WOOD-PARTRIDGE (Dendrortyx leucophrys) [*]
I was a bit surprised to hear one calling in the distance on our first morning's walk near the Hotel Bougainvillea, as this was a first for me in the area.
PIED-BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps)
A single bird was on the Angosturra Reservoir.
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
Seen in a few towns/cities.
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)
A couple of birds visited the feeders at Cope's, with a few also on roadside power lines along the way to Cope's.
RED-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas flavirostris)
The numbers at the corn meal feeders at Rancho are starting to get a bit ridiculous as there were 40+ birds showing up daily.
BAND-TAILED PIGEON (Patagioenas fasciata)
One bird flew over while we birded up at the crater of Volcan Irazu, and two were perched in trees near the lunch restaurant, one of which we scoped.
SHORT-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas nigrirostris) [*]
Heard a couple of times high up on the hillside at Rancho.
INCA DOVE (Columbina inca)
A pair or two of these tiny doves were around the Hotel Bougainvillea area.
RUDDY GROUND DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)
Fran was especially pleased to see this bird which eluded her in Arizona. We saw a handful at Casa Turire and the Silent Mountain Road.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)
A couple of birds regularly visited the feeders after the swarm of other pigeons thinned out.
WHITE-WINGED DOVE (Zenaida asiatica)
This species, formerly restricted to the dry northwest of the country, continues its expansion across CR. This was the first time I'd ever seen them at Rancho, where there were between 10-20 daily at the feeders.
GROOVE-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga sulcirostris)
A trio of birds in scrubby habitat along the Silent Mountain Road, and a couple more at Casa Turire in similar habitat.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)
Vernon spotted our first one teed up atop a tall tree along the driveway as we drove down the hill one morning. The only other one we saw was along the Silent Mountain Road, where one was slinking through the canopy, very squirrel-like, hence the name.
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)
Poor views of one that flew up off the driveway ahead of the bus as we came back from CATIE, then another was seen along the trail at Manu after it was flushed up from the forest floor, though only by those at the back of the group.
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis)
Local guide Kenneth showed us a bird on a day roost near the parking area at Manu. No doubt this was the same bird as we saw here last year, though it had changed perches since the 2023 tours.
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)
The only swift species seen, this is one of the most regularly encountered species in the country. It is also one of the most easily identified, by size alone if the white collar can't be discerned. That was the case on this tour, as both of our sightings: 25-30 birds over the lodge on our first morning there, and about a dozen over the Rio Perlas on our final afternoon, were a bit too far to see any white.
WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora)
The most numerous hummingbird of the trip, these handsome birds aggressively defended the feeders at both Rancho and Cope's.
BAND-TAILED BARBTHROAT (Threnetes ruckeri)
One that fed briefly at some heliconia flowers along the upper part of the driveway at Rancho was missed by many, so it was a treat to get incredible looks at our only other one at Cope's feeders just before we had to hit the road. I think this was my first time seeing this species at a feeder anywhere.
GREEN HERMIT (Phaethornis guy)
Mary saw a couple hit the forest feeders during an afternoon break at the lodge, but for the rest of us it was pretty much a heard only. Though a couple of dark blurs zipped past the balcony and along the road at Rio Macho, they were not really countable views.
LONG-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis longirostris)
One was seen briefly at Manu, but the views were far better at Cope's where a couple braved the jacobin gauntlet to hit the feeders a few times during our stay.
STRIPE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis striigularis)
Several sightings through the week, though many were pretty short as these birds don't tend to stay in one place for long. Probably our best views were of one feeding at the verbena hedge along the big open viewing area below the lodge on our first morning.
LESSER VIOLETEAR (COSTA RICAN) (Colibri cyanotus cabanidis)
People are often pretty surprised to hear how vocal and noisy these hummingbirds are, but their incessant chirping is almost a constant backdrop sound on the upper slopes of Irazu. The fog was a bit too thick for us to locate any birds on our way up, but by the time we came back down, the weather was a little clearer, and we managed to locate and scope a couple of birds on their song perches.
PURPLE-CROWNED FAIRY (Heliothryx barroti)
This dainty hummingbird was encountered a couple of times during our walk up the Tuis River valley, then again near the parking area at Manu.
GREEN-BREASTED MANGO (Anthracothorax prevostii)
A few birds were regular visitors to the feeders at Rancho, with a single bird also at Cope's feeders, and they were also seen on the grounds of the Bougainvillea, though perhaps mainly before the tour officially started.
GREEN THORNTAIL (Discosura conversii)
A male turned up at the backyard verbena hedge early on a couple of mornings, and both a male and a female showed up at the verbena at Rancho Bajo.
BLACK-CRESTED COQUETTE (Lophornis helenae)
A female was an early-morning visitor to the verbena hedge below the balcony one day, for those that were up there early. Later that same morning, Roger spotted a gorgeous male at the verbena at Rancho Bajo. It didn't stick around long thanks to the pugnacious Rufous-tailed Hummingbird that was defending the flowers, but long enough at least for some good views before it vanished.
FIERY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Panterpe insignis)
One of the most common hummingbirds on the slopes of Irazu, right on up to the crater. We saw about 15 in total, though it was pretty tough to see the fiery throat in the dull light conditions. Still I think most of you managed to see some color on at least a bird or two.
WHITE-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis hemileucus)
Quick looks at a bird that perched briefly in front of us after chasing off a Black-bellied Hummingbird at Rio Macho. This was the first time I'd seen either species there.
PURPLE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis calolaemus)
Usually the most numerous species of hummingbird at Rio Macho, though there were fewer than usual this trip, and none was exceptionally cooperative, though we saw enough for everyone to register some kind of acceptable view, I think.
VOLCANO HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus flammula)
Abundant on the slopes of Irazu, especially up around the crater, where we got to see a few males doing spectacular towering display flights followed by rapid dives back to their perches. Interestingly, though there were lots of adult males up top, lower down we saw primarily females and/or subadult males.
CANIVET'S EMERALD (Cynanthus canivetii)
The small, glittering green hummingbird seen next to the wall of a gated community near the Bougainvillea on our first morning was this emerald, which is mostly restricted to the Pacific northwest.
VIOLET-HEADED HUMMINGBIRD (Klais guimeti)
This tiny stunner was seen a couple of times in the backyard verbena flowers at the lodge.
VIOLET SABREWING (Campylopterus hemileucurus)
A male was around the lodge, but only very occasionally and briefly, though I think everyone got a look at this big purple hummer at Rancho Bajo.
BRONZE-TAILED PLUMELETEER (Chalybura urochrysia)
A male regularly defended the feeder on the balcony in front of Terry and Catherine's room, giving ample opportunity for us to check out its flashy pink feet. It was joined once or twice by a female, and we also saw a couple at the verbena flowers at Manu and one at Cope's feeders.
CROWNED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania colombica)
Seen pretty much daily at Rancho, though in lower numbers than usually are here. Still, we saw both sexes very well, and enjoyed watching them bathing at the pools, where they were the only hummingbird to put in an appearance this trip.
SNOWCAP (Microchera albocoronata)
This is one of the star birds at Rancho, though they are less numerous than in the past as the habitat has grown up and become less favorable for these birds. We had to go in search of them a bit further from the lodge, but had an amazing close encounter with 2 splendid males at the new Hotel Rivel in the Tuis River valley. Later we also had some excellent views of a male and a female at Rancho Bajo. Driven by first place votes from both Mary and Ed, Snowcap narrowly beat out the quetzal as bird of the trip!
BLACK-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Eupherusa nigriventris)
The combination of black belly, white tail, and bright rufous wing coverts make the male of this Chiriqui endemic unmistakeable. We saw a couple of them nicely at Rio Macho.
SCALY-BREASTED HUMMINGBIRD (Phaeochroa cuvierii)
Large, dull and unremarkable, though the large white tail corners are pretty distinctive. A single bird put in a few appearances at Cope's feeders, the first time I'd seen this species there.
BLUE-VENTED HUMMINGBIRD (Saucerottia hoffmanni)
Formerly considered conspecific with Steely-vented Hummingbird, this bird has now been given full species status, and is pretty much restricted to CR and Nicaragua. We had a single bird right in front of the Hotel Bougainvillea on our first morning.
RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia tzacatl)
One of the most familiar and widespread of hummingbirds in the country and we saw them in fair numbers daily.
RUSSET-NAPED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides albiventris)
Kenneth pointed out a pair of birds foraging on the leaf-covered roof of a small shed on the edge of the parking area at Manu! Later that day we saw the resident pair at close range at Cope's feeders, stealing dog kibble from the hard-working leafcutter ants that were hauling it across some logs to their mound.
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica)
Several birds each at the pond at CATIE and in the floating vegetation on the Angosturra Reservoir.
WHITE-THROATED CRAKE (Laterallus albigularis) [*]
One bird was heard at CATIE and several, including an incredibly close bird (probably within 4 feet of us) in the dense vegetation on the Angosturra Reservoir.
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna)
A relatively recent arrival in the Turrialba region, after the creation of the reservoir in 1999, Limpkins are now reasonably common around the lake, and we saw several, including scope views of a fairly close bird perched in a tree along the lake edge.
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)
A fairly new addition to the country's avifauna, first showing up in 1997. These birds are quite widespread in open pastures throughout, and we saw small numbers on most days. Most numerous at Casa Turire, where we found at least half a dozen.
NORTHERN JACANA (Jacana spinosa)
Very numerous at CATIE, where they breed regularly, and we saw 25+ of them there, with a handful also at the Angosturra Reservoir.
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) [b]
Single birds along the Rio Platanillo and the Rio Perlas.
SUNBITTERN (Eurypyga helias)
Once a fairly difficult species to track down, the spectacular Sunbittern is now relatively easy, and we tallied 5 of them through our week. The first was along the Rio Tuis right at the bottom of the driveway, deftly spotted there by Vernon from the moving bus. The next morning we found 3 more along the Rio Platanillo. At first we thought they were together, but it became clear that one was an intruder when two of the birds got close to each other and began displaying and posturing, followed by the intruder being driven off by the resident pair. Our final one was seen picking off tadpoles in a small manmade pond along the Rio Perlas.
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana)
We picked out a lone bird perched in a tree a long way across the Angosturra Reservoir.
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)
Four birds were roosting in trees around the pond at CATIE, and a couple more seen around the reservoir at Casa Turire.
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias) [b]
A single bird was at the pond at CATIE.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
Small numbers at the appropriate wetland areas and seen from the bus along the drives.
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
A couple were seen in a small ditch in the town of La Suiza as we drove through, and another was seen at Casa Turire.
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
Four birds flew in to roost in the papyrus along the pond edge at CATIE, and another handful were at Casa Turire.
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
Now called Western Cattle Egret, these birds were a daily sight.
GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens)
Singles on 4 different outings, including one hunting at the pond on Cope's tiny property.
YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nyctanassa violacea)
A couple of adults roosting in the papyrus at CATIE, and another on the shoreline of the Angosturra Reservoir.
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius)
These unique, nocturnal herons used to be much easier to see at CATIE, but have now moved from the bamboo island into the dense stand of papyrus along the shoreline, where they can be hard to spot. We waited until quite late in the afternoon for them to start to stir, and in the end, Vernon went into the back of the papyrus stand to 'encourage' them to show themselves, and 3 birds moved up to open perches where we got some nice scope views.
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)
It still amazes me how this once tough bird is now pretty easy to see in the country. We ended up seeing 20+ over several days, with a high count of 11 birds on the grounds of the Casa Turire.
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
Daily, generally in fair numbers.
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
Perhaps a little less numerous than the above, but still seen daily in good numbers.
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) [b]
A common winter visitor along the coast, mainly, but also at some larger bodies of water. We saw a bird sitting high above the shoreline of the pond at CATIE.
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)
Best of our sightings was a pair perched in a dead tree in gorgeous late afternoon at Casa Turire.
GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis)
Roger and I saw a large bird fly through the trees, landing just out of view along the trail at Manu. We both worked our way into better viewing positions to try and locate it, and Roger managed to spot it on its perch. To my surprise, it was a lovely adult of this rather uncommon species, and we all had fantastic looks at it before it moved off.
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis)
Like the Limpkin, this species expanded its range into the Turrialba after the damming of the Rio Reventazon and the creation of the Angosturra Reservoir. We found a couple of immature birds perched along the edge of the reservoir, getting nice scope views of one of them.
BARRED HAWK (Morphnarchus princeps)
Singles seen circling high overhead both in the Rio Tuis valley and along the Silent Mountain Road. A study by some friends in Ecuador found that roughly 50% of the prey items delivered to nestlings were caecilians, large, subterranean amphibians, another 35% were snakes!
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)
A few birds most days, mainly along the roads, naturally.
GRAY HAWK (Buteo plagiatus)
A beautiful adult perched in one of the trees off the balcony at Rancho, and was one of the few (perhaps even the first) I'd ever seen from the balcony here.
BROAD-WINGED HAWK (Buteo platypterus) [b]
A common wintering bird, seen daily (except on our Irazu Volcano day) including one bird sat on the edge of the road up to Rio Macho.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus)
Both the ones we saw were dark morph birds, one soaring with vultures over Cope's place, the other above Rancho Bajo.
RED-TAILED HAWK (Buteo jamaicensis)
Three birds on the slopes of Irazu, one flying high over the Rio Perlas, all of which appeared to belong to the endemic Chiriqui highland subspecies, costaricensis.
BARN OWL (Tyto alba)
We knew exactly which tree a pair of these owls were roosting in, in the town of Paraiso, but still it took several minutes before we finally discovered their hollow. We could only see the upper half of one bird, and the lower half of the other, but that was good enough!
TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba)
Not far from the above owls, we found a pair of these dozing sleepily next to some large bromeliads in the town park, thanks to Vernon's knowledge of where they liked to roost.
CRESTED OWL (Lophostrix cristata)
It was a slippery, mucky slog to get to a pair of these owls on a day roost in Cope's forest patch, but well worth the effort for the smashing looks we had!
SPECTACLED OWL (Pulsatrix perspicillata)
We flushed one bird from a large clump of bamboo at Manu, then managed to refind it and get a scope view of it, with the bird staying just long enough for everyone to have a peek. Later that day, Cope showed us a much more stoic pair of these imposing birds in his patch of forest.
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum)
One began calling in the Bougainvillea grounds shortly before our meet up time for dinner on the final day, and I hurried out to see if any of the group were in the garden. I found only Mary and Fran, then shortly after, we found a couple of these tiny owls glaring fiercely down at us. A follow up attempt after dinner was unsuccessful, but I hope some of you managed to find it the following morning.
MOTTLED OWL (Ciccaba virgata)
A roosting pair in the Bougainvillea grounds delighted folks the day before the tour, then again on our return to the hotel. We also heard these most nights at Rancho.
BLACK-AND-WHITE OWL (Ciccaba nigrolineata)
As if the Spectacled and Crested owls weren't enough, Cope surprised us all by spotting one of these gorgeous owls perched high up in the canopy, an unexpected bonus bird!
RESPLENDENT QUETZAL (Pharomachrus mocinno)
There's limited accessible habitat for this highly-coveted species on our Irazu Volcano visit, but lucky for us, there was a fruiting avocado tree right next to the road in that limited habitat. And that tree attracted in a trio of quetzals, a female, a young male, and a stunning, shimmering, adult male, which was the favorite bird of Dianne, Catherine, and Sarah.
GARTERED TROGON (Trogon caligatus)
The most commonly seen of the trogons, with nice views of pairs near the lodge, at Rancho Bajo, and at Manu.
BLACK-THROATED TROGON (TENELLUS) (Trogon rufus tenellus)
Our lone bird was a male spotted sitting quietly in the subcanopy along the forest trail at Manu. Note that this species has been split into 4 distinct species. The Central American bird is now Northern Black-throated Trogon, T. tenellus.
COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris)
We also had just one of these trogons, also a male, which perched right out in the open in great light, over the road at Rio Macho.
LESSON'S MOTMOT (Momotus lessonii lessonii)
This colorful bird finished tied for 3rd place in the bird of the trip voting, and Ursula chose it as her favorite bird overall. We had plenty of excellent looks, both at the Bougainvillea (where Catherine nearly trod on one at dusk!) and at Rancho, where they regularly dropped in for some bananas.
RUFOUS MOTMOT (Baryphthengus martii)
Shortly after about half the group headed back up to the lodge from the hummingbird pools, one of these large motmots suddenly appeared perched on the hose over the stream. Aside from this bird, our only records were vocalizations in the early mornings, many of which were probably from this same bird!
BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum)
Great looks at a single bird in a forested ravine as we walked up the Rio Tuis valley.
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)
The only kingfisher at the CATIE pond was one of these huge beasts, which was also the only one for the tour.
AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle aenea)
A diminutive female hunting for tiny fish in Cope's tiny backyard pond was an unexpected surprise! Cope was intent on keeping her around and was busy transferring fish from a nearby small stream into his pond, to ensure a steady food supply.
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)
Our final species of the trip was a pair of these birds at the same tadpole-filled pond as our final Sunbittern. We had some lovely scope views of them, and Dennis placed them at the top of his favorites,
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda)
A calling pair along the driveway below Rancho were staying out of sight in the dense vegetation above the road, but we persisted and finally managed to lay eyes, and scopes, on the female, which posed nicely for everyone to see.
RED-HEADED BARBET (Eubucco bourcierii)
Vernon spotted a female almost immediately after we'd stepped off the bus at Rio Macho, but only a few people got on it before she slipped away. Plus we were distracted by a much more cooperative Prong-billed Barbet at the same time.
PRONG-BILLED BARBET (Semnornis frantzii)
As Vernon was trying to point out the above species, I spotted one of these sitting quietly in the same area, and when the Red-headed slipped off, this one stayed put and allowed lengthy scope views before hopping out of sight and performing a duet with its mate.
COLLARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus torquatus)
Up to 5 of these small toucans were semi-regular visitors to Rancho's banana feeders. We also had some super close looks at a quartet at Cope's banana feeders.
YELLOW-THROATED TOUCAN (CHESTNUT-MANDIBLED) (Ramphastos ambiguus swainsonii)
Only encountered in the Caribbean lowlands, with most of ours seen at Manu (and a few along the highway as we rose in the bus). Best views, though, were of a bird with a slightly damaged bill at Cope's feeders.
KEEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos sulfuratus)
The most commonly encountered toucan, seen and heard daily at Rancho and almost everywhere else. We even saw several from the bus on our final day as we drove from Rancho to Orosi.
ACORN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes formicivorus)
A common woodpecker of high elevations. We saw a half a dozen birds on the upper slopes of Irazu Volcano.
BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes pucherani)
A pair of these lovely woodpeckers were regular visitors the feeders at Rancho.
HOFFMANN'S WOODPECKER (Melanerpes hoffmannii)
A male hit the banana feeders most days, often at the same time as the Black-cheeked Woodpeckers. There was also one at Cope's feeders, but these birds were most numerous around the Hotel Bougainvillea.
SMOKY-BROWN WOODPECKER (Dryobates fumigatus)
I managed to coax a calling bird to fly across the road a couple of times at Rio Macho, but it would in dense tangles where we couldn't see it, so we had to admit defeat and just had to leave it alone.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)
Not always a given on this tour, but we came across these large woodpeckers several times. First we saw a pair on a dead tree next to the road as we drove to CATIE, then had another at CATIE itself. We spotted another in the distance in the Rio Tuis valley, then finally, saw one more along the road near Casa Turire.
RUFOUS-WINGED WOODPECKER (Piculus simplex)
A calling bird taunted us for much of the morning along the trail at Manu, vocalizing regularly from high in the canopy but staying out of sight. Then, when we got back to the parking area, we spotted one foraging openly and managed to get everyone a great look at it.
GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus)
Heard and seen on several days at Rancho, with initial views being quite backlit and poor, but gradually we got better and better views and ultimately we saw these handsome birds beautifully several times, including a pair right overhead at Rancho Bajo.
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara plancus)
Seen by many pre-tour at the Bougainvillea, with one perched right on the hotel. We also saw one flying over Cope's place, then another perched on the radio tower as we rolled back in to the Bougainvillea on tour's end.
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)
Mostly seen around the Bougainvillea, though we also saw one in the Rio Tuis valley as we approached Rancho for the first time. The expansion of this species across the country has been pretty impressive, as these birds first moved into the southwest of the country from Panama back in the 1970's.
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
Heard regularly at Rancho, though usually calling from some hidden perch. We did track one down in a tall pine at the top of the driveway one morning, though only the head was visible amid the boughs. We saw one in passing as we drove along the highway in the Caribbean lowlands, then finally caught up with a good view of this snake specialist when we came across a perched bird in the Rio Tuis valley as we left Rancho for the final time en route to Orosi.
MERLIN (Falco columbarius) [b]
Laura had just asked me whether falcons were often seen at Rancho (to which I replied "not often") when a Merlin rocketed by overhead. Nice timing! Later we saw another in hot pursuit of a swallow over the Angosturra Reservoir. The Merlin made several stoops on the swallow, but the swallow evaded it each time and ultimately the Merlin gave up.
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)
The bridge over the Rio Reventazon is a regular spot for this species, but there's no good place to stop along the highway there, so we had to settle for views from the bus in passing.
BARRED PARAKEET (Bolborhynchus lineola)
In typical fashion, a flock of roughly 25-30 of these tiny parakeets rocketed by high overhead as we birded in the Rio Tuis valley near the Hotel Rivel. I suspect there are long-time Costa Rican birders who have yet to see these birds perched.
ORANGE-CHINNED PARAKEET (Brotogeris jugularis)
Though we had a pair along the driveway at Rancho (where I saw them first just last year), our best views were at Cope's feeders where about 15-20 of them came in for bananas.
BROWN-HOODED PARROT (Pyrilia haematotis)
The most regularly seen parrot at Rancho this trip, though most of our records were the typical small flocks of birds hurtling by overhead. But we lucked out when one small group landed in the open in one of the trees off the balcony, giving us an excellent look.
WHITE-CROWNED PARROT (Pionus senilis)
Usually the more common of small parrots at Rancho, though they were a little less so this trip. Still we saw them often enough, and had exceptional views of them a couple of times, particularly the birds that were feeding in some leguminous trees along the dirt road in CATIE.
RED-LORED PARROT (Amazona autumnalis)
I scoped a pair perched in a dead tree on the distant ridgetop at Cope's, the red lores were just discernible at that distance! We saw some other Amazona parrots flying over the highway on the drive through the lowlands, many of which were likely this species as well.
WHITE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona albifrons)
These small, colorful Amazonas have become quite regular around the Bougainvillea, where we saw our only ones, a total of about 20 birds, flying over the gated communities on our first morning.
OLIVE-THROATED PARAKEET (AZTEC) (Eupsittula nana astec) [*]
Heard at Cope's forest patch, but we had limited time, and several owls to find.
CRIMSON-FRONTED PARAKEET (Psittacara finschi)
A widespread and very familiar species in the country. We saw them in fair numbers at a bunch of sites, with the highest count (estimate, actually) of about 80+ birds in some big flocks over CATIE.
BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus) [*]
One was calling in the scrub at CATIE, but wouldn't show itself.
BLACK-CROWNED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus atrinucha)
And these ones were calling on the opposite side of the road from the above, in more mature forested habitat, but they were far more cooperative, and the male, especially, showed extremely well, even staying put in the open for long enough for some of you to get photos.
RUSSET ANTSHRIKE (Thamnistes anabatinus)
Our lone record was of a single bird in a mixed flock along the trail up the Rio Tuis Valley.
CHECKER-THROATED STIPPLETHROAT (Epinecrophylla fulviventris) [*]
Heard a few times at Rancho, but never really close.
SLATY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula schisticolor)
Superb views of a male with a mixed flock at Rio Macho.
CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Poliocrania exsul)
A bird in the forest at Manu was calling back to my whistled imitations but wouldn't move closer to the trail, until Vernon played a tape of a call I'd never even heard them do before. Then the bird rocketed across the trail, and right through the group, maneuvering itself between Dennis and Mary to join its mate on the other side. A bit more effort produced good views of the pair.
DULL-MANTLED ANTBIRD (Sipia laemosticta)
Excellent looks at a singing bird in a dark ravine in the Rio Tuis valley.
ZELEDON'S ANTBIRD (Hafferia zeledoni) [*]
A distant bird was heard at Rio Macho early on, but it went silent after that.
THICKET ANTPITTA (Myrmothera dives) [*]
It was nice to hear one of these at Rancho again, as it used to be one of the first birds to wake me every morning during my time here. Too bad it was in a pretty inaccessible spot.
OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus)
A single record of a bird high overhead at Rio Maacho.
PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa) [*]
We heard one in the afternoon as we watched the hummingbird pools, but not again. I was surprised this one didn't show up at the moth cloth as it usually does.
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
A common and widespread species, and we had a few of these smallest of the woodcreepers at Rancho, the Rio Tuis valley, and at Manu.
NORTHERN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae)
A few of us that turned up on the balcony super early got to see one in the dusky dawn light. Too dark to see any barring, but the size and shape clinched the identification.
COCOA WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus susurrans)
Heard more often than seen, but we recorded this largish woodcreeper almost daily and had good views a few times at Rancho, CATIE, and Manu.
SPOTTED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius)
One or two birds showed pretty well as it foraged with a small mixed flock that passed by the hummingbird pool area.
BROWN-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (Campylorhamphus pusillus) [*]
A calling bird at Rio Macho came close, but wouldn't leave the impenetrable vine tangle it got itself into, so we had to walk away without a look.
STREAK-HEADED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes souleyetii)
One of the woodcreepers most tolerant of disturbed areas. We had a few sightings of a single at Rancho, and another at Manu.
PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus)
One was with the same mixed flock as our lone Russet Antshrike along the trail up the Rio Tuis valley, and a couple of pairs were encountered on the forest trail at Manu.
STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans)
Generally replaces the above at slightly higher elevations. We had nice looks at a lone bird with a mixed flock at Rio Macho.
LINEATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla subalaris)
Another Rio Macho bird, also with a mixed flock. This bird gave its very distinctive song, popped up briefly, and flew across the road, continuing to call, but not showing itself again as the flock moved off away from the road.
BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (MEXICAN) (Automolus ochrolaemus cervinigularis)
With the recent split of this species, the Costa Rican birds are now called Fawn-throated Foliage-gleaner, Automolus cervinigularis. We heard these pretty regularly at Rancho, and had excellent looks at a couple of them at the moth cloth early one morning.
SPOTTED BARBTAIL (Premnoplex brunnescens)
A couple of birds at Rio Macho, neither one especially cooperative, though I think many folks got a fair look at one.
RED-FACED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca erythrops)
Another Furnariid from Rio Macho, this one gave us several decent looks as they poked around in dead leaf clusters while moving with the various feeding flocks we encountered.
SLATY SPINETAIL (Synallaxis brachyura)
A calling pair along the Silent Mountain Road stayed mostly out of sight below the road, though a couple of people that were standing in the right place got to see them as they moved through the tall grasses.
WHITE-RUFFED MANAKIN (Corapipo altera)
The lone one seen was a female-plumaged bird in a forest patch as we hiked up the Rio Tuis valley.
WHITE-COLLARED MANAKIN (Manacus candei)
Regularly seen and heard at Rancho, including several sightings of the colorful males in fruiting trees just off the balcony. We also encountered these at Manu and Cope's place.
RED-CAPPED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra mentalis)
Super looks for most at a brilliant male perched in the subcanopy along the Manu forest trail.
LOVELY COTINGA (Cotinga amabilis)
A male of this scarce species had turned up recently at Rancho, and, as we hadn't lucked into it yet, we made a concerted effort to find it on our final afternoon at the lodge. Initially it appeared we would strike out, but then Vernon managed to locate it sitting atop the foliage in a tree uphill from our vantage point. While the initial scope looks were great, things got better when the bird then flew down towards us and began feeding in a fruiting tree at eye level, giving us stunning looks before flying to another treetop to rest. A nice finale to our stay, and the top pick for both Roger and Kathryn, which propelled this bird into a tie for 3rd place.
MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata)
We had a few sightings of the somewhat comical "pajaro chancho", with especially nice scope studies of a male at Rancho Bajo.
CINNAMON BECARD (Pachyramphus cinnamomeus)
Surprisingly, the only becard of the trip. We had our best views of a bird along the Silent Mountain road.
RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Terenotriccus erythrurus)
A couple of us had a quick view of a small bird with a mixed flock of tanagers along the Silent Mountain road, and I was pretty sure it was this species. So I used a little playback to see what would happen, and the bird suddenly was right there beside us, giving us all a stunning look. This is definitely one of the cutest of the flycatchers!
OLIVE-STRIPED FLYCATCHER (OLIVE-STREAKED) (Mionectes olivaceus olivaceus)
Birds in this genus are actually more fruit-catchers than flycatchers. We saw a couple of these in fruiting trees at Rio Macho.
OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus)
A couple of birds seen at Rancho, including one in one of the fruiting trees off the balcony.
SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon superciliaris)
A single with a mixed flock along the Tuis River valley, and another with a mixed flock that passed over at the hummingbird pools.
SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus pileatus)
There's a lot of personality packed into these little birds! We had some great views of a pair at Rio Macho.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)
As the name suggests, this is a common species, and we saw them a number of times, with some excellent looks particularly in the coffee plantation at CATIE, and in the verbena hedge at Rancho Bajo.
BLACK-HEADED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum nigriceps)
Unlike the above, this species primarily sticks to the canopy, and thus is significantly harder to see well. But we did, getting a good scope view of one directly above the driveway below the lodge.
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens)
All flycatchers in this genus are now being called flatbills, and we saw the reason for this on at least a couple of the birds we saw.
BROWN-CAPPED TYRANNULET (Ornithion brunneicapillus)
A small flycatcher of lowland forest canopy, where it can be tough to see, though I think most folks managed some kind of look at the one along the trail at Manu.
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)
Our first of several was scoped on our initial morning outing near the Bougainvillea.
TORRENT TYRANNULET (Serpophaga cinerea)
We saw just one of these perky little flycatchers, foraging along the rocky stream that ran next to the Silent Mountain Road.
MISTLETOE TYRANNULET (Zimmerius parvus)
Heard more than we actually saw of this common species, though by week's end I believe everyone had a look at one of these birds, which. as the name suggests, frequently eats mistletoe berries, and also spreads the seeds.
TAWNY-CHESTED FLYCATCHER (Aphanotriccus capitalis) [*]
Heard a few times at Rancho, and we gave it a good try, but the bird managed to stay just far enough in the thick undergrowth to stay out of view.
OLIVE-SIDED FLYCATCHER (Contopus cooperi) [b]
Most of these boreal breeders spend the winter in the northern Andes, though small numbers remain in Central America through the winter, and the Rio Tuis valley often seems to have one on winter territory. And that's where we saw our only one, teed up on a tall dead tree across the river from the Hotel Rivel.
EASTERN WOOD-PEWEE (Contopus virens) [b]
Both migrant wood-pewees are possible in CR in the winter, and can be very difficult to tell apart. We had just one wood-pewee, perched up along the road at CATIE. Based on plumage characters (specifically the very obscure upper wing bar), I was leaning towards to Western, but the bird's plumage was so worn as to be practically useless as a field mark. Once the bird began to vocalize, however, it was clear that it was Eastern.
TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus cinereus)
At this time of year, Tropical Pewees (now Northern Tropical Pewee here in CR) tend to be in fresher plumage, so usually look brighter and cleaner. They also tend to forage from lower perches on average than the migrant pewees. And their trilled calls, given after nearly every time they land after a foray, are very different from the migrant pewees. We saw, and heard, a pair alongside the pastures at Casa Turire.
YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flaviventris) [b]
The most regular migrant Empid at Rancho, and we saw singles on several days there.
YELLOWISH FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flavescens)
A distinctive, very yellow Empid of upper elevation cloud forests. We had some nice views of a couple of these at Rio Macho.
BLACK-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax atriceps)
Another very distinctive Empid, this one restricted to high elevations right on up to timberline. We had some super looks at a couple of these up at the crater of Irazu Volcano.
BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans)
At least 4 of these perky flycatchers were seen along the Silent Mountain Road.
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus) [*]
Often a frustrating species at Rancho, where our experience of listening to one calling incessantly from the canopy above the moth cloth without being able to see it was pretty typical.
RUFOUS MOURNER (Rhytipterna holerythra)
I think most everyone got to see a bird Vernon was pointing out with a small flock along the Silent Mountain Road.
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer)
A common species around Rancho, and we heard or saw this distinctive Myiarchus daily there.
GREAT CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus crinitus) [b]
Regular in winter at lower elevations, including in the Turrialba region. We had great looks at a lone bird at CATIE.
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
A very noisy, familiar species through much of the country. We recorded them daily.
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
While generally less numerous than the above, this is still a common, widespread species, and we also tallied at least one daily throughout the tour.
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis)
A familiar sight on roadside wires, fences, etc, and arguably even more numerous than the kiskadee. We had plenty of them.
GRAY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes granadensis)
Similar to the above, and often found together with it, but has much less white on the head, just a thin supercilium that extends back only to the eyes. Generally less numerous than Social, but still quite common, and we saw them most days.
WHITE-RINGED FLYCATCHER (Conopias albovittatus)
Though superficially similar to Social Flycatcher, this species shows a longer, thinner bill, a much darker, more contrasting face pattern, and a complete, unbroken white ring on the head. It is also much less common and more local, restricted to Caribbean lowland forest where it generally perches high atop foliage in the canopy. We had nice looks at a quartet of these at the Manu parking area after our walk on the trail, and also got to hear their very distinctive calls which also help separate them from other similar species.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Another abundant, widespread flycatcher, and we saw them daily.
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis)
We spotted one singing and feeding in the canopy shortly after we arrived at Rio Macho and it gave reasonable looks, though it wasn't duped into coming closer by my whistled imitations.
LESSER GREENLET (Pachysylvia decurtata)
A fairly drab, easily overlooked small bird often found with mixed feeding flocks. We had singles with flocks at Rancho, the Rio Tuis, and at Manu, though none was especially cooperative.
YELLOW-THROATED VIREO (Vireo flavifrons) [b]
A fairly common wintering species, and we had singles on most days, and several at the Rio Macho.
PHILADELPHIA VIREO (Vireo philadelphicus) [b]
This vireo was pretty rare at Rancho back when I was guiding there, but it seems to have increased greatly in the region, and now is quite a common wintering species. We had some pretty much daily there, as well as at CATIE and the Bougainvillea. It was fun to see one bird regurgitate a mistletoe seed and wipe it onto a branch, exactly like Mistletoe Tyrannulets do.
BROWN JAY (Psilorhinus morio)
Common, noisy, and familiar, and we saw them daily.
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)
The most numerous swallow of the trip, with plenty of them most days.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
Seen at several sites, and seemingly the only rough-winged swallow present. Though some at CATIE had very little contrast between the rump and back and could have been Northern, they all appeared to have peach-colored throats, and all the calls we heard were Southern type calls.
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)
Seen in passing, perched on power lines in several towns along the main highway in the Caribbean lowlands.
MANGROVE SWALLOW (Tachycineta albilinea)
A few of these attractive, white-rumped swallows were feeding low over the pond at CATIE among the other swallows.
LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus) [*]
Heard in the forest at Manu.
WHITE-BROWED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila bilineata)
Nice looks at a pair that responded to our pygmy-owl calls in the coffee plantation at CATIE.
SCALY-BREASTED WREN (WHISTLING) (Microcerculus marginatus luscinia) [*]
Heard in the ravine near the hummingbird pools, but never got close.
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon)
Heard, at least, almost daily, and we finally saw one popping in and out of the gutter at Rancho Bajo.
OCHRACEOUS WREN (Troglodytes ochraceus)
Several with mixed flocks at Rio Macho made up for the first day's heard-only ons on Irazu.
TIMBERLINE WREN (Thryorchilus browni)
If these birds aren't singing, they can be virtually impossible to find, though they are quite numerous at high elevations, such as atop Irazu Volcano. Luckily a couple were singing up at the crater, and we managed some fine looks at these Chiriqui specialties.
RUFOUS-NAPED WREN (Campylorhynchus rufinucha)
A lone bird on our first morning's outing near the Bougainvillea, though most folks had already seen these well on the hotel grounds prior to the tour.
BLACK-THROATED WREN (Pheugopedius atrogularis)
A large, dark, wren of dense areas of second growth, and often a tough bird to see, though we had surprisingly excellent looks at a pair on the drive below the lodge, then saw them again from the bus as we left Rancho the following morning!
STRIPE-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus thoracicus)
Quiet this trip, with just one bird heard in the Rio Tuis valley, though Sarah and Dennis did see one out front of their cabin on our first morning at Rancho.
CABANIS'S WREN (Cantorchilus modestus) [*]
Part of the Plain Wren (recently split into three species, all of which occur in CR!). This is the most widespread of the three, and we heard them on several days, but never saw one. Some folks may have seen these on the Bougainvillea Hotel grounds prior to the official start of the tour.
BAY WREN (Cantorchilus nigricapillus)
Another large skulking wren of dense thicket habitats, this one usually close to water. While we heard them several times, only Ursula managed to get a look at one along the stream near Rancho Bajo.
WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucosticta)
Heard daily at Rancho, and we had some excellent views of these beautiful little wrens at the moth cloth. Laura was especially taken with them and chose them as her favorite bird of the trip.
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys)
Replaces the above species at higher elevations. We did hear both species at Rio Macho, but this is the common one there, with White-breasted heard only lower down the road. I find these birds easier to see than White-breasted, and we had super looks at a little party of them at Rio Macho.
TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus gilvus) [I]
Historically there were no mockingbirds in Costa Rica (or Panama and Nicaragua), though this species occurs naturally from Mexico to Honduras, and through much of South America (very likely these are actually different species, but we won't go there here). At some point, southern Tropical Mockingbirds (of the Colombian subspecies tolimensis) were introduced into the Canal Zone and those birds seem to have spread northward into CR (some by way of ships coming into the port of Limon, I would imagine). Mockers are now quite common throughout CR, and we saw them at several sites.
BLACK-FACED SOLITAIRE (Myadestes melanops)
Birds of higher elevations, such as this, sometimes move downslope in search of food, but I still was not expecting to see a couple of these in the Caribbean lowlands at Manu!
BLACK-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus gracilirostris)
This species occurs at the highest elevations of the 5 nightingale-thrushes in CR. We had fabulous looks at a couple up at the crater of Irazu.
ORANGE-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus aurantiirostris)
We managed to coax a singing bird across the road near Orosi, but our views were limited to that flyby as the bird refused to emerge from the dense vegetation though it continued to sing.
RUDDY-CAPPED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus frantzii)
This is the most similar species to Black-billed NT, and it occurs mainly at elevations just below that species' range. It is fairly easily distinguished, though, by the yellowish lower mandible, the rufous nape and crown, and the lack of a brown breast band. We had good looks at a couple in the shrubby ravine across from our lunch restaurant at Irazu.
WOOD THRUSH (Hylocichla mustelina) [b]
A reasonably common wintering species. We saw one in the stream bed at the hummingbird pools, and some of us had another early the next morning from the balcony.
CLAY-COLORED THRUSH (Turdus grayi)
They aren't a flashy species, but they have a beautiful song, given just prior to the start of the rainy season. It is traditionally considered to call the rains, which is why it was chosen as the national bird in 1977. These birds are everywhere, and I have considered providing CR checklists with this species pre-filled in for each day! Nice to see them getting some love in the top birds voting, and Fran chose these ubiquitous birds as her fave of the trip.
SOOTY THRUSH (Turdus nigrescens)
A common large thrush of high elevation regions, and we saw several up at the crater of Irazu.
LONG-TAILED SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Ptiliogonys caudatus)
A pair seen from the bus as we descended Irazu Volcano unfortunately had moved off by the time we were able to pull off for a look, so it was a great to get some super scope views of a couple of these elegant birds on our final day at Rio Macho.
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]
I was aiming to get these as a heard-only species, but we accidentally saw some during our gas station rest stop in Orosi.
ELEGANT EUPHONIA (Chlorophonia elegantissima)
A trio of these gorgeous euphonias, two stunning males and a female, sat above the track at Rio Macho for several long minutes allowing scope views for all.
YELLOW-CROWNED EUPHONIA (Euphonia luteicapilla)
Heard pretty much daily, and a fine adult male was seen from the balcony at Rancho on a couple of mornings, both times alongside a pair of Yellow-throated Euphonias.
WHITE-VENTED EUPHONIA (Euphonia minuta)
A rather uncommon euphonia, so it was nice to see a trio of these on our walk down to Rancho Bajo, which gave us a clean sweep of all the possible euphonias on this tour! The white vent of this species separates it from all other species though Yellow-throated has white in the lower belly, which could be confusing. This species also has a more orange tone to the yellow underparts (pure yellow in Yellow-throated) which also aids in identification.
YELLOW-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia hirundinacea)
The most often recorded euphonia, with a pair seen regularly in a fruiting tree off the balcony, as well as elsewhere around Rancho and the Rio Tuis valley.
OLIVE-BACKED EUPHONIA (Euphonia gouldi)
One showed up at the feeders early on our first morning at Rancho, with several others at at Manu, including a fine male feeding low next to the parking area.
TAWNY-CAPPED EUPHONIA (Euphonia anneae)
A common species of humid forest at mid-elevations. We had several nice sightings along the Silent Mountain road, in the Rio Tuis valley, and at Rancho, but they were most numerous at Rio Macho.
SOOTY-CAPPED CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus pileatus)
Quite numerous at upper elevations, where we saw several beautifully at the Irazu Volcano crater.
COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus flavopectus)
Often abundant in mid to high elevation forests. We saw quite a few at Rio Macho, though they weren't as numerous as they can be there.
BLACK-STRIPED SPARROW (Arremonops conirostris)
It was nice to see a couple of these handsome sparrows at Rancho's feeders after having been absent there for some time.
ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon aurantiirostris)
These beauties were daily visitors to Rancho's feeders, including a dark-billed juvenile which a visiting birder tried to convince Dianne and Ursula was a Cabanis's Ground-Sparrow. They were not convinced!
VOLCANO JUNCO (Junco vulcani)
Despite the reasonably good weather up at irazu Volcano's crater, we had some difficulty tracking down this specialty, but we prevailed in the end when we found a single bird feeding in the picnic clearing next to the small coffee shop in the parking area.
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis)
A common and familiar species that sort of fills the niche of House Sparrow in cities and towns. Though we didn't see these at Rancho, we had plenty around the Bougainvillea and at Irazu.
LARGE-FOOTED FINCH (Pezopetes capitalis)
Good scope views of a bird on our way up Irazu, though no one gave it a lot of attention as it was upstaged by the quetzal shortly after we discovered it.
WHITE-NAPED BRUSHFINCH (YELLOW-THROATED) (Atlapetes albinucha parvirostris)
One or possibly two skulked through the undergrowth along the road at Rio Macho, eventually giving us all decent views.
EASTERN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella magna)
The birds here are of the resident race alticola, which occurs from Mexico to CR. Some folks saw one from the bus as we drove up Irazu, and we had several more in the pastures at Casa Turire.
RED-BREASTED MEADOWLARK (Leistes militaris)
It looked like we might miss this handsome bird until Vernon finally spotted a brilliant male perched on a fencepost across the pasture at Casa Turire.
YELLOW-BILLED CACIQUE (Amblycercus holosericeus) [*]
Heard from the lodge one morning.
CHESTNUT-HEADED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius wagleri)
The smaller, and generally less numerous of the two oropendolas, though a few birds were regular visitors to the banana feeders at Rancho, as well as at Cope's.
MONTEZUMA OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius montezuma)
Large and comical-looking, these birds were numerous daily, with many folks getting there first ones at the Bougainvillea prior to the tour.
BLACK-COWLED ORIOLE (Icterus prosthemelas)
Two adults and an immature bird were seen well feeding around the edge of the large clearing below the lodge on our first morning there.
BALTIMORE ORIOLE (Icterus galbula) [b]
They weren't as numerous as usual, but we still saw a handful pretty much daily throughout the tour.
RED-WINGED BLACKBIRD (Agelaius phoeniceus)
A single bird turned up for rice at Cope's feeders. This is a resident species here, though it's unclear which subspecies is involved. I suspect the birds here on the Caribbean slope are subspecies brevirostris, which likely have spread southward from their former range (Honduras to SE Nicaragua).
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus)
Three of these monster cowbirds shared the top of a bare tree with a Tropical Mockingbird at Casa Turire.
MELODIOUS BLACKBIRD (Dives dives)
Another species that is relatively new to the CR avifauna. The first one showed up in the northwest back in 1987, since when they have spread southward throughout the country. We had them daily, though in small numbers.
GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus)
An abundant bird, often in huge flocks that roost in city parks, gardens, etc. We saw plenty, though they don't occur on the Rancho property itself.
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis) [*]
Waterthrushes were heard on two occasions, at CATIE, and at Cope's. The chip notes of the two species are quite similar, but the species do sort out by habitat, and both sites were more suited to this species than Louisiana, which prefers clear, fast-flowing streams and rivers.
GOLDEN-WINGED WARBLER (Vermivora chrysoptera) [b]
A reasonably common wintering species, and we saw at Rancho, in the Rio Tuis valley, and at Rio Macho.
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia) [b]
A common wintering warbler. We saw small numbers pretty much daily.
FLAME-THROATED WARBLER (Oreothlypis gutturalis)
We only had one of these stunning warblers, but that one gave us incredible eye-level views on the slopes of Irazu!
TENNESSEE WARBLER (Leiothlypis peregrina) [b]
This can be an abundant species here at times, though we saw relatively few this trip, though we still had a few on most days.
GRAY-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis poliocephala)
Generally in drier habitats than the the other resident yellowthroat, Olive-crowned. We had wonderful views of a bird as we searched the pastures for Red-breasted Meadowlarks at Casa Turire.
MOURNING WARBLER (Geothlypis philadelphia) [b]
Secretive, as always, but a regular winterer here. As a group we saw just one bird, along the driveway below the lodge on our first morning, though some folks also watched one bathe in one of the backyard pools during and afternoon siesta break.
OLIVE-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis semiflava)
Vernon conjured one up from the dense lakeside vegetation at Casa Turire.
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi)
A common species, though heard more often than seen. We only failed to record these on the day up Irazu and the day in the lowlands, and eventually we had some that showed themselves.
MAGNOLIA WARBLER (Setophaga magnolia) [b]
A rather uncommon wintering species, and finding one at CATIE was a bit of a surprise, as neither of your guides has seen more than a handful in the country.
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER (Setophaga fusca) [b]
A common wintering species, seen most days. Most birds were rather dull, but we did have a couple of brightly-colored males as well.
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia) [b]
A few birds each at CATIE and the Casa Turire.
CHESTNUT-SIDED WARBLER (Setophaga pensylvanica) [b]
One of the most numerous of wintering warblers in the country, and we saw them in fair numbers daily, other that our day up on Irazu.
TOWNSEND'S WARBLER (Setophaga townsendi) [b]
When this bird first appeared near the end of the road at Rio Macho, I initially called it out as the much more common Black-throated Green Warbler, but when it emerged from behind the leaves, the highly contrasting face pattern made it clear it was one of these much less common birds.
BLACK-THROATED GREEN WARBLER (Setophaga virens) [b]
Not long before the Townsend's Warbler appeared, we did have a couple of these warblers which are seen regularly in highland forests.
CHESTNUT-CAPPED WARBLER (Basileuterus delattrii)
I think a few of you saw this one on the grounds of the Bougainvillea before the tour. Other than that, though we heard these daily at Rancho, our only sighting was a bird bathing in the backyard pools during lunch on Christmas Day.
GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (Basileuterus culicivorus)
Regular at Rancho, where best seen early in the morning at the moth cloth. We also saw a pair in a mixed flock at Rio Macho.
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla) [b]
Though a fairly common wintering species, primarily at upper elevations, we saw relatively few of these. We did have a couple on Irazu, and one at Rio Macho, in addition to a bird bathing in the back yard pools at Rancho.
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus)
We saw our first as we hiked up the Rio Tuis valley, but these birds were most numerous at Rio Macho, where pretty much every mixed flock had a pair.
SUMMER TANAGER (Piranga rubra) [b]
Seen regularly, with a male coming daily to the feeders at Rancho, and scattered birds elsewhere.
WHITE-WINGED TANAGER (Piranga leucoptera)
Most everyone got a good look at a beautiful male with a mixed flock at Rio Macho. I'm always struck by how much these birds resemble White-winged Crossbills!
RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGER (Habia fuscicauda)
Seen daily, and easily, at Rancho, where not only do they come in to the feeders for bananas, but they are extremely bold and extroverted around the moth cloth.
CARMIOL'S TANAGER (Chlorothraupis carmioli) [*]
We heard these forest interior tanagers as we watched the hummingbird pools, but they seemed to bathe downstream out of sight from our vantage point.
BLACK-FACED GROSBEAK (Caryothraustes poliogaster)
At least a dozen of these gregarious grosbeaks were in a big noisy flock along the trail at Manu, and w managed to catch up with them in a small clearing for some great looks.
INDIGO BUNTING (Passerina cyanea) [b]
A female in the scrubby vegetation adjacent to the coffee plantation near the Bougainvillea on our first morning.
WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Loriotus luctuosus)
Our only sighting was of a pair (or two) in a mixed flock along the trail up the rio Tuis valley.
TAWNY-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus delatrii)
About half a dozen fed in the canopy of a riverside tree in the Rio Tuis valley, one of the first species we saw once we got off the bus.
WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus)
This is a species of scrubby, disturbed areas. We had a male on our first morning at Rancho, seen from the large clearing below the lodge, then a rufous female came to the feeders the following morning, and that was it.
CRIMSON-COLLARED TANAGER (Ramphocelus sanguinolentus)
This lovely tanager never seems as common as the next species, though they often occur together. We had a pair of these beauties on our first morning at Rancho, then a single bird at Rio Macho. Catherine also got to see some at Cope's feeders when the rest of us went slogging through the mud for owls.
SCARLET-RUMPED TANAGER (Ramphocelus passerinii)
A common bird, but they're so beautiful that I can't imagine ever getting tired of them. We saw them daily at the lodge as well as Cope's and elsewhere in the valley below Rancho.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
A very common, familiar species across the country, and we saw them every day.
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)
Also quite common and familiar, though never as numerous as the Blue-grays.
SPECKLED TANAGER (Ixothraupis guttata)
These lovely tanagers seem to have declined around Rancho since when I lived there, but we did manage to find a single pair with a mixed flock along the Silent Mountain road.
GOLDEN-HOODED TANAGER (Stilpnia larvata)
A common tanager, and we saw them often at Rancho and environs.
PLAIN-COLORED TANAGER (Tangara inornata)
There are very few Ebird records of this lowland species in the Turrialba area prior to 2010, though whether they've recently moved up into the region or if they were previously overlooked is hard to say. They are pretty nondescript, particularly for a tanager! We had a trio of these at CATIE.
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola)
We did well with these colorful birds, seeing them with mixed flocks several times at Rancho and nearby areas, as well as at Manu.
EMERALD TANAGER (Tangara florida)
Rarely numerous, and we only saw three birds, but we were fortunate to have some exceptional close views of them along the Silent Mountain road.
SILVER-THROATED TANAGER (Tangara icterocephala)
We heard the unique buzzy call notes of these ones fairly often, and had a few good sightings, primarily in their preferred upper mid-elevation forest habitat, but also, more unusually, in lowland forest at Manu.
SCARLET-THIGHED DACNIS (Dacnis venusta)
A couple of pairs in a fruiting tree along the Silent Mountain road showed well, though not quite well enough to see the scarlet thighs of the male. We also had single females at both Rancho and CATIE.
SHINING HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes lucidus)
A couple of brilliant males turned up at Cope's feeders, the first time I've seen this species there.
RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus)
Not the first time I've seen this one at Cope's place. We estimated about 30 of these birds there.
GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza)
Individuals, mainly females, were scattered around various sites on several days, including one female alongside the other honeycreepers at Cope's feeders.
BLACK-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Chrysothlypis chrysomelas)
It wasn't the best show, but a pair of these spectacular tanagers were spotted in a fruiting tree above the trail in the Rio Tuis valley, and I think most folks got a decent view of the male.
SLATY FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa plumbea)
A few birds on the slopes of Irazu, including right up at the crater.
VARIABLE SEEDEATER (Sporophila corvina)
We didn't see many seed-eaters on this trip, but most of them were this common species. The "Variable" part of the name stems from the fact that while Caribbean slope birds are almost entirely black, Pacific slope birds have a much more pied plumage.
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila nigricollis)
Vernon picked out a couple of these uncommon seedeaters just before we boarded the bus to head back to the lodge from the Silent Mountain road.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)
Small numbers most days, often in the same verbena hedges that we were staking out for hummingbirds.
YELLOW-FACED GRASSQUIT (Tiaris olivaceus)
A few birds in scrubby pastures below Rancho and along the Silent Mountain road.
BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus)
The most commonly seen saltator of the trip, with a few birds pretty much daily, including at Rancho's feeders.
BLACK-HEADED SALTATOR (Saltator atriceps)
Larger and noisier than the above. Though these birds didn't show up at the feeders this trip, a trio of them were regularly heard below the lodge and could be seen from the balcony if you went all the way to the left side and looked down, which I believe everyone did.
LONG-NOSED BAT (Rhynchonycteris naso)
Kenneth pointed out three of these distinctive, small bats roosting on the side of a dead tree as we looked for the Black-faced Grosbeaks at Manu.
HONDURAN WHITE BAT (Ectophylla alba)
These incredible, tiny white bats modify heliconia-type broad leaves to create a tent of sorts, under which they roost in a tight huddle. Cope showed us one such roost with 8 of them clustered together.
MANTLED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta palliata) [*]
Heard only in the distance at Manu.
WHITE-THROATED CAPUCHIN (Cebus capucinus)
Nice looks at a couple of troops of these monkeys at Manu.
BROWN-THROATED THREE-TOED SLOTH (Bradypus variegatus)
As we drove up to Manu, we spotted a sleeping male in the crotch of a roadside Cecropia, so we stopped for a quick photos session.
BRAZILIAN RABBIT (Sylvilagus brasiliensis)
One was seen a couple of times at dusk at the bottom of Rancho's driveway.
VARIEGATED SQUIRREL (Sciurus variegatoides)
The larger of the two common feeder squirrels.
RED-TAILED SQUIRREL (Sciurus granatensis)
The smaller of the two, with the reddish-tinged tail.
DUSKY RICE RAT (Melanomys caliginosus)
There were quite a few of these cute, mouse-sized rats feeding at the rice and corn meal below the feeders at Rancho.
CENTRAL AMERICAN AGOUTI (Dasyprocta punctata)
At least 3, including a female with a fairly small youngster, were regular under the feeders at Rancho.
WHITE-NOSED COATI (Nasua narica)
One, or perhaps two, showed up at the Rancho feeders early on the first morning but were never seen again through the week.
TAYRA (Eira barbara)
Only Catherine got to see this large weasel (with photos as proof!) when it showed up at the feeders on a morning when she remained behind at the lodge. Unfortunately it was the only visit it made to the yard during our stay.
SLENDER ANOLE (Anolis limifrons)
The common, slim anole at Rancho. Seen a number of times, including a few sleeping on leaves around the lodge at night.
HELMETED BASILISK (Corytophanes cristatus)
This is the one we called Casque-headed Lizard, the peculiar, angular lizard that was sitting motionless at the base of a plant near Cope's feeders.
COMMON HOUSE GECKO (Hemidactylus frenatus) [*]
Heard nightly at Rancho.
CENTRAL AMERICAN WHIPTAIL (Ameiva festiva)
A couple were along the trail at Manu, and one in the grass near the laundry room as we returned to the lodge one afternoon.
BIRD-EATING SNAKE (Pseustes poecilonotus)
The small snake that Laura spotted in the Rio Tuis valley.
SPECTACLED CAIMAN (Caiman crocodilus)
A couple of smallish ones in the pond at CATIE.
PYGMY RAIN FROG (Pristimantis ridens)
A few of these tiny frogs were found on the ornamental plants around the lodge on a brief nocturnal foray one night.
GOLDEN-EYED LEAF FROG (Agalychnis annae)
On our final night at the Bougainvillea, a couple of folks joined me to look for these lovely, scarce frogs, and were pleased to find not only a gorgeous adult, but also a couple of young ones, including one that had not completely lost its tail, a hopeful sign for these frogs at the hotel.
MASKED TREE FROG (Smilisca phaeota)
One of these attractive tree frogs was calling from above the pool in the backyard one evening, and we tracked it down in the vegetation overhanging the water.
CENTRAL AMERICAN MUD TURTLE (Kinosternon angustipons)
One in Cope's small pond.
As I spent some time photographing dragonflies, here is a list of the ones that were positively identified.
Great Spreadwing (Archilestes grandis) Mary and I saw a couple of these on the Hotel Bougainvillea grounds prior to the tour.
Highland Rubyspot (Hetaerina cruentata) One of these was at one of the ponds in the Bougainvillea grounds. Another rubyspot perched above the wet area across from Cope's house was unidentified, but may have been Forest Rubyspot (H. sempronia).
Square-spotted Dasher (Micrathyria ocellata) The handsome, blue-eyed dragon with the white spot on the abdomen which I photographed as Vernon was paying the entrance fees at CATIE.
Montane Dragonlet (Erythrodiplax abjecta) The small, reddish brown dragon with the white on the abdomen which we saw along the Silent Mountain road.
Thorn-tipped Dancer (Argia elongata) A bright blue damselfly perched on the ground next to the small stream that crossed the track on Silent Mountain road.
Carmine Skimmer (Orthemis discolor) The large, rosy dragon that was flying around the muddy area on the SIlent Mountain road, before it finally posed nicely on a stick next to the track.
Red-tipped Swampdamsel (Leptobasis vacillans) The small, orange damsel perched in the vegetation next to the dock at Casa Turire.
Bromeliad Helicopter (Mecistogaster modesta) The large helicopter damselfly seen along the forest trail at Manu.
Sky-blue Dancer (Argia medullaris) A brilliant blue dancer that was perched on vegetation in the gully below Rancho Bajo.
Hercules Skimmer (Libellula herculea) The large red and gray dragon that alit on the tip of the feeder tree during lunch one day at Rancho.
Totals for the tour: 286 bird taxa and 12 mammal taxa