A Field Guides Birding Tours Report
France's Loire Valley: Birds, Chateaux & Wine 2023
June 2-12, 2023 with Marcelo Padua & Megan Edwards Crewe guiding
Our Loire Valley tour combines one of our now-famous birds and wine tours with yet another component -- a bit of culture. In the mornings, we searched for birds in forests, grasslands, wetlands and agricultural areas between the scenic Loire River and several of its larger tributaries, with several trips further afield to the pond-pocked regions of the Sologne and La Brenne. In the afternoons, we turned our attention to a few of the region's many wineries and chateaux. And though we joked at times that we might need to rebrand ourselves as "Food Guides" (I gained 5 pounds!), we enjoyed encounters with many of the valley's feathered inhabitants -- some of them repeatedly.
We started the tour (once we'd fought our way through the hideous traffic around Paris) with four nights in the lovely medieval town of Chinon. In the surrounding area, we came to grips with some of Europe's common inhabitants. Eurasian Jackdaws and Rooks croaked from a huge rookery right across the street from our hotel, while Stock Doves waddled along the promenade and Common Swifts swept in screaming parties overhead. Along the rivers, jewel-bright Common Kingfishers glowed among the branches, Common and Little terns courted with fishy offerings, Great Cormorants dried soggy wings and Little Egrets stalked the shallows. European Serins sang jangly songs from treetops, Gray Wagtails waggled along pond edges, noisy family parties of Short-toed Treecreepers and Eurasian Nuthatches hitched their way up tree trunks and jaunty European Robins charmed us. Several male Montagu's Harriers quartered low over fields and marshes, and Cirl Buntings trilled from utility wires. Unlike the vast majority of the Loire Valley, Chinon is famous for red wines produced from the Cabernet Franc variety, as its strategic position is more sheltered and slightly warmer than most of the valley. The Chinon forest that protects vineyards here from the wind also yielded some great birds, with species such as Crested Tit, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Tree Pipit, Common Cuckoo, and Eurasian Turtle-Dove among our finds. The ever-diminishing Meron grasslands, sandwiched between agricultural fields and industrial estates, still held remnant populations of their special birds, including a displaying Little Bustard with his striking black-and-white neck collar, a huge-eyed Eurasian Thick-knee, several streaky Corn Buntings, and plenty of Eurasian Skylarks raining their songs down from the heavens as they hovered in flight displays.
We moved east for the next four nights, and from our base in the forested area around Chambord, explored the forests and myriad ponds of the Sologne and La Brenne. Red-backed Shrikes hunted from fence posts around our hotel, while Common House-Martins carted mouthfuls of mud to growing nests stuck under the eaves and Black Redstarts chirruped from the rooftops. A Little Bittern fluttered across a pond. Two Short-toed Snake-Eagles circled against impressively towering cumulonimbus clouds, then stooped down to perch in treetops just across the water from where we stood. Eared Grebes carted stripey babies on their backs while Great Crested Grebes performed solemn mirror dances. A Great Reed Warbler twitched through reed stems just below us, a surprise Eurasian Spoonbill sieved through shallow waters, and an unexpected White Stork soared overhead. Spotted Flycatchers hunted from treetop snags while Wood Warblers peered down from overhead. A Eurasian Hoopoe rummaged on the roadside, showing nicely its distinctive hammer-headed topknot. Goldcrests and Common Firecrests posed nearly side by side in a stand of spruces, obligingly showing all the pertinent features that help to tell them apart. A Garganey floated on a pond edge, his bold white eyebrow gleaming. And who will soon forget our last morning's woodpecker double act, with Eurasian Wryneck and Black Woodpecker both seen well -- and both new for the tour?
Of course, there is much more to this tour than "just the birds". The huge complex of Fontevraud Abbey, once the largest and among the most influential of Europe's abbeys, was the site of an entertaining guided tour -- all about girl power in the Middle Ages. The complex patterns of Villandry's kitchen and formal gardens dazzled from the chateau's parapets, and the informal gardens appealed to many of our green thumbs -- despite the heat. Graceful Chenonceau stretched elegantly across the Cher with most of its original furnishings still in place. Chambord staggered the imagination with its vast size (440 rooms that could sleep 2000!), Michelangelo's intriguing double-helix staircase and a roofline that resembles a fever-dream chess set. Then, of course there were the wines -- 34 different labels during the course of the tour (Marcelo has provided the list below), plus a couple of jugs of local "mixed table wines" and food enough for twice our number. Bertrand Couly himself led us around some of his family's Chinon vineyards and into the tasting room, and we toured the chilly caves of Chateau Gaudrelle's Vouvray production too, before retiring to the tasting room to prepare a delicious lunch under the tutelage of Chef Alex. What a fine way to spend some time at the beginning of summer!
Thanks so much for joining us for the adventures and the laughs. It was fun sharing this corner of France with all of you. We hope to see you again soon, somewhere in the world. Meanwhile, happy birding!
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
CANADA GOOSE (Branta canadensis) [I]
Scores loafed along the edges (or floated in the waters) of Etang Piegu, the last lake we visited in La Brenne. Introduced to Europe from the New World, this species is now widespread in feral populations across the continent.
MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor) [N]
Regular throughout, including more than 100 floating on Etang de l'Arche and scores more at Etang Piegu. We saw a number of families with cygnets of various sizes during the tour.
EGYPTIAN GOOSE (Alopochen aegyptiaca) [I]
One mooched its way along a sandy bar at Etang Piegu, its big white wing patches making it easy to pick out -- good spotting, Kim! This species is native to Africa, south of the Sahara, but feral populations (the descendants of escapees) are widespread across Europe. This was a tour first.
COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)
Nine snoozed or preened among some of the Canada Geese at Etang Piegu -- a surprising number, considering they are typically only winter visitors to the region. This was another tour first.
GARGANEY (Spatula querquedula)
A male floated along the edge of Étang de l'Arche, his bold white eyebrow gleaming in the sunshine, and another did the same under threatening skies at Etang Piegu. Still another tour first!
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)
A single male flew along the far shore at Etang de l'Arche, then dropped into the reeds, out of sight.
GADWALL (Mareca strepera)
A pair on the Etang d'Assay our first morning, with another pair at the Etang de l'Arche and a few more at Etang Gabriere.
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos) [N]
Daily, often in good numbers -- including several hens with trailing lines of ducklings on the little lake at Pas de Goubert.
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)
A half dozen floated along the far edge of Etang Piegu, winking in and out of view behind the shelducks. Males of the subspecies in Europe -- crecca -- are distinguishable by the bold, white, horizontal stripe along their scapulars; some taxonomists break them out as a separate species: the Eurasian or Common Teal. This was yet another tour first.
RED-CRESTED POCHARD (Netta rufina)
Our first was a single bird in eclipse plumage -- but with a strikingly red bill -- in a channel at Etang d'Assay. Later, we saw more than 80, including a plethora of snazzy males, on Etang Gabriere, the lake across from where we had our lunch in La Brenne. What a snazzy bird!
COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)
A half dozen or so on Etang d'Assay, with many more sprinkled around Etang de l'Arche and Etang Gabriere.
TUFTED DUCK (Aythya fuligula)
A few dozen on Etang de l'Arche, where we got some nice scope looks at the male's distinctive "ponytail". We saw others at Etang Gabriere.
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
GRAY PARTRIDGE (Perdix perdix)
A pair rummaging in a roadside field as we headed towards Chateau Gaudrelle were a surprise -- and some great spotting by Marcelo, as we hurtled past at 70 kph! This species has had many common names over the years, including "Hungarian Partridge" and "English Partridge".
RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus) [I]
Our best looks probably came as we drove towards Etang d'Assay on our first morning, when a handsome pair stepped into the road right in front of our vehicles. We had others at the Etang itself (a male slipping across a nearby field) and at several places in La Brenne. This species was introduced into Europe so it could be hunted.
COMMON QUAIL (Coturnix coturnix) [*]
We heard at least two calling from a rough field along La Lombardie road on our final morning. This cryptic species is far more often heard than seen.
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
One in a channel at Etang d'Assay proved somewhat elusive, but the ones floating on the lake at the Maison de la Nature (the visitor's center at Cherine) more than made up for it, flaunting themselves nicely in the open.
GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus) [N]
Plenty on the scattered ponds of the Sologne and the Brenne, including a pair busily building a nest on surface vegetation at Etang Gabriere, a number carting stripey youngsters on their backs, and one pair mirror dancing (complete with a short tiptoe-run-across-the-water move) on Etang de l'Arche.
EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis) [N]
Dozens at Etang de l'Arche, most with youngsters of various sizes (some still quite tiny) in tow or on backs. The morning sun caught the golden spray of feathers on the side of the adults' heads quite nicely, making them glow.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (FERAL PIGEON) (Columba livia (Feral Pigeon))
Common throughout, particularly in and around Chinon.
STOCK DOVE (Columba oenas)
Particularly common along the promenade at Chinon, with multiple pairs trundling around on the sidewalks and grass during our first pre-breakfast outing. We had others calling and flying around near our second hotel. The dark eye, yellow bill, and lack of a white rump help to separate this species from the previous one.
COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)
Abundant throughout, including a giant flock along the highway on our drive back to the hotel after our day in the Brenne. Their size and the white slash in their wing make these big pigeons easy to identify.
EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)
This declining species is still gratifyingly common in the Loire Valley, with birds heard purring from the woods on most days and seen nicely in multiple locations -- including one dwarfed by the previous species when perched beside it near our hotel on our last morning. One singing (and doing little display flights) from a pine tree in the Chinon forest gave us particularly nice views. Unfortunately, despite being rated as "Vulnerable" by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, it is being decimated during its migration when it passes over Malta, which is defying EU regulations by continuing their "traditional" spring hunt.
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
Small numbers on most days, typically around towns. It was certainly far less common than the wood-pigeon! Surprisingly, this species only arrived in Europe during the last century, invading from the east.
Otididae (Bustards)
LITTLE BUSTARD (Tetrax tetrax)
Yahoo! When we saw the height of the vegetation in the Meron grasslands, our hearts sank; it was high enough to obscure any Little Bustard -- even an unusually tall one! Fortunately, there was one cutover area, and that's where we found a male in full display, shouting his little farting challenges to the world. We saw at least two others in flight elsewhere along the same road. This species is in serious decline all across Europe, due primarily to habitat destruction.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)
The well-known "cuckoo clock" call of this iconic species was heard throughout the tour and we had good looks at several birds in flight. One sitting in an oak near where we parked in the Chinon forest was very obliging, giving us all multiple chances to study it in the scopes. Unlike North American cuckoos, this one is a brood parasite, laying its eggs in other birds' nests.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
EURASIAN NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus europaeus) [*]
Will and Chris were the first to report hearing what they thought was this species during the night at our second hotel. A post-prandial listen on the last night of the tour let the rest of us catch up; we could hear one bird churring near the forest edge while we waited for it to get dark enough for the owls to call. This was the first time this species was recorded on the tour.
Apodidae (Swifts)
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
Daily, often (as in the skies over Chinon) in good numbers. We had some especially close views of those investigating potential nest holes in the walls of our Chinon hotel. This species is in steep decline across its range -- a combination of loss of nesting sites and the overall decline of insects.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
Regular in small numbers on ponds and lakes throughout. This species was recently split from America's Common Gallinule.
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra) [N]
We found nearly a dozen on Etang d'Assay our first morning, including two pairs with small, fuzzy, red-headed black chicks in tow. Broods are typically divided between their parents once they've hatched. They're fed by one of the adults for 4-5 weeks; if they approach the other parent, they're likely to be picked up and shaken roughly for 15 seconds or so. I guess that would teach me not to approach the "wrong" parent again! We had others at Etang de l'Arche and on many ponds in the Brenne.
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
EURASIAN THICK-KNEE (Burhinus oedicnemus)
One in the same cutover area as the Little Bustard in the Meron grasslands was rather more wary than its neighbor, trotting out of view (or squatting down into the grass) whenever it caught sight of us. Fortunately, hiding the scopes behind the taller grasses seemed to work reasonably well, and everybody got a look. We saw at least four in flight (where their flashy wing patterns are distinctive) over the reserve.
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
A dozen or so strode around the Etang Piegu on long pink legs. On our tour, this species is typically found only in the Brenne.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)
A group of seven rested on the muddy edge of a channel at Etang d'Assay our first morning, and we spotted others in scattered fields along the drive to both Etang de l'Arche and La Brenne (including at Etang Piegu). The long crest of this handsome plover is distinctive.
LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius)
Scattered birds, including one among the snoozing Mallards at Etang d'Assay, one with a fuzzy chick under the Varennes-Montsoreau bridge, a few on sandbars along the Loire and a handful at Etang Piegu.
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
GREEN SANDPIPER (Tringa ochropus)
A couple of birds flushed from the marshy area around the Etang d'Assay and flew off into the distance, showing their white rumps and dark underwings as they went. We got better looks at another pair working along the edge of the water at Etang Piegu. They too flew -- though only from an islet to the lake's edge -- giving us another chance to appreciate their dark underwings and white rumps. Still another tour first.
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
One strode around at the edge of an islet in the Loire, seen from a roadside stop we made en route to Chateau Gaudrelle, and later flew past us down the river. The wide, white wedge on the trailing edge of its wing in flight is a diagnostic field mark. Though they breed in small numbers in the Loire Valley, we'd never recorded this species on the tour before.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus) [N]
Seen all but one day of the tour -- and we probably just didn't pay enough attention on the day we missed it. We had especially nice views of nesting birds on the island in the middle of Etang Cistudes, the lake at the visitor's center in La Brenne. This is the common smaller gull in the Loire Valley. And they really should be called BROWN-headed Gulls!
MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)
Brief views of a couple of birds -- one an adult, the other one of last year's hatchlings -- over the big forest near the confluence of the Loire and the Vienne. The all-white wings of the adult (lacking any black at the wingtips and without a grayish cast to the underwing) help to distinguish them from the more common Black-headed Gulls.
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (Larus michahellis)
Another common species, seen on most days. The birds standing on the sandbar under the Varennes-Montsoreau bridge gave us particularly nice looks at their namesake legs. This species was long considered to be a subspecies of the Herring Gull, but DNA analysis has shown that it's actually more closely related to the Great Black-backed Gull and the Armenian Gull.
LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)
A few along the river at our picnic site near Villandry, with others at the overlook we birded from along the Loire, on our way to Chateau Gaudrelle for lunch. With their white foreheads and yellow bills, these terns strongly resemble America's Least Tern.
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
Little parties swirled over Etang de l'Arche (and some nearby agricultural fields) and others did the same over the Etang Piegu. This marsh tern is distinctively dark in breeding plumage.
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
The most common of the tour's terns, seen on most days -- including several flying over the forest around Chambord with little fishes in their mouths.
Ciconiidae (Storks)
WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)
One soared overhead while we birded along the road near the Maison de la Nature in La Brenne, its long red legs stretched out behind it. This is typically a passage migrant through the area, though some birds do breed in (relatively) nearby parts of France. Not surprisingly, it's the first time we've seen it on this tour.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
A few stood spread-eagled along the river at the confluence of the Loire and the Vienne, and we saw others in and around the Etang de l'Arche, the Etang Gabriere and along the road on our drive back to Paris.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
LITTLE BITTERN (Ixobrychus minutus)
One flew across Etang de la Sous in a flurry of black and buff wings, to the great delight of the French photographers who shared the observation blind with us. This is a rare breeder in La Brenne, and another new one for the tour.
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
Seen in small numbers on all but the day we drove from Paris to Chinon -- sometimes stalking prey through shallow waters, sometimes in slow-flapping flight overhead. This is a widespread breeder throughout France.
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
A couple of birds chased each other around on the far side of Etang de l'Arche, and another flew over as we drove towards La Lombardiere.
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
Small numbers throughout, including one hunting along the Vienne River on our first pre-breakfast outing. The bird hunting the shallows at Pas de Goubert gave us particularly good views, showing its yellow feet and the two slender head plumes of its nuptial plumage.
CATTLE EGRET (WESTERN) (Bubulcus ibis ibis)
Common throughout, often in fields with livestock. A few showed the "toasted marshmallow" color of high breeding plumage.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (EURASIAN) (Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax)
A youngster flapped away across the pond at Pas de Goubert while we walked around the park's back edge -- nice spotting, Kim! Some saw an adult standing in a roadside pond as we drove through La Brenne.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
EURASIAN SPOONBILL (Platalea leucorodia)
One foraged along the far shore of Etang Gabriere. It was a bit distant, but we could clearly see its distinctive method of feeding and bill shape -- and even make out the yellow tip of the "spoon" in the scopes. This species doesn't breed anywhere near the Loire Valley. And it was another tour first.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
One soared over the confluence of the Loire and the Vienne, seen from our perch at the viewpoint above Candes St. Martin.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
EUROPEAN HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis apivorus)
A dark morph bird circled over the forest where we found our Black Woodpecker, giving us a half minute or so to enjoy it before it disappeared out of sight behind the trees. Their narrow head, longer wing and tail and lack of a pale central wing band help to separate them from the more widespread Common Buzzard. Though they were once thought to be honey eaters (hence their common name), we now know they specialize on bee and wasp larvae, though they'll also take small animals.
SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)
One circling against some piled-up cumulonimbus clouds drew our attention as we drove through La Brenne. We piled out of the vans in time to watch it land in a tree across an etang from where we'd stopped, allowing us some good scope views. And then a second bird dropped in to join it! This one got top "Bird of the Trip" honors in the end.
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
A female coursed low over the back side of the Etang Gabriere, then perched on some low dead branches, giving us the chance to check her out in the scopes. This is the largest and broadest-winged of Europe's harriers.
MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)
Super looks at two different males. Our first flapped low over the marshy edge of Etang d'Assay -- nice spotting Julie! We had even closer looks at another male dancing over a wheat field as we headed back to Chinon for lunch the next day. The black line on his upperwing that helps to distinguish him from the similar male Hen Harrier was clearly visible.
EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)
One flap-flap-glided over our heads at Pas de Goubert, pursued by an agitated group of swifts and swallows, another flew across a roadside vineyard (not far from where we found our first Cirl Bunting) and a final bird zipped past while we birded at Etang de l'Arche.
BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans)
Single birds seen on most days. They proved especially common in La Brenne -- which used to be the only place we reliably saw them.
COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)
Widespread and common, seen every day of the tour -- including one that almost became a hood ornament on Marcelo's van!
Strigidae (Owls)
TAWNY OWL (Strix aluco) [*]
We heard at least three, calling from the darkening woods on all sides, as we stood on the lawn of our forest hotel on our last evening there. Not surprisingly (given that it doesn't get dark until well after 10 p.m.), this is the first time we've recorded this species on the tour.
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)
We had single birds on about half the days of the tour, including one right beside a speed bump at Chambord and one that flew back and forth several times over the field where we found our Black Woodpecker. This one tied for the runner-up position in the "Bird of the Tour" competition.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)
Two along the far side of the Vienne were a highlight of our first pre-breakfast walk -- great spotting, Jim! We had others at Pas de Goubert, along the river near our Villandry picnic spot, and along the Loire at La Gaudiniere. The electric blue color on their backs and wings is stunning!
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
EURASIAN WRYNECK (Jynx torquilla)
Wow! One near the entrance to our hotel's grounds was a real surprise our last morning. It flashed in and perched atop a nearby tree briefly, twisting its neck around in the distinctive way that helped to give it its scientific name -- Jynx. This was still another tour first.
MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocoptes medius)
We heard one calling in the forest near the confluence of the Loire and Vienne, and eventually tracked it down. Though reasonably common in France, this species is much less "showy" than the next, often calling from hidden perches high in the canopy. Fortunately, this one spent long minutes clinging to the side of an open trunk, giving us the chance to study it in the scopes.
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos major) [N]
Definitely the common woodpecker of the trip, recorded on all but the first day. A youngster yammering from a treehole along the path at Etang Ricot was particularly entertaining.
EURASIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus viridis)
Heard regularly, and seen several times in flight, but we never really got the definitive look. Some got quick looks at one perched high in one of the big trees in the forest at the confluence of the Loire and Vienne -- enough to see its distinctive olive color, red crown, and black cheek -- before it bounded off out of sight.
BLACK WOODPECKER (Dryocopus martius)
A bird calling from the forest near a back road where we birded on our last morning flew in and perched high in a bare snag nearby. Yahoo! Still another tour first -- and a long-awaited one! This striking woodpecker tied for runner-up honors in the "Bird of the Tour" competition.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
Daily, typically hovering over a roadside field.
EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)
One rocketed back and forth over the pond and rough fields near our forest hotel, catching insects as dusk fell on the penultimate night of the tour.
Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
EURASIAN GOLDEN ORIOLE (Oriolus oriolus)
As usual, we heard more than we saw; their rich, warbling phrases were a regular part of the tour soundtrack. We did spot one flying across the pond at Pas de Goubert several times, and many in the group saw it perched in a treetop there.
Laniidae (Shrikes)
RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)
The pairs hunting from fence posts around our forest hotel gave us some particularly fine views, as did the female raiding the nearby bee hives. We saw others in scattered locations across the Loire Valley.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)
Regular in small numbers, typically flying across the road in front of us while we were driving. One perched low in a tree near our Villandry picnic site was an exception, sitting for long minutes in one spot and allowing some fine views.
EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)
Common and widespread, seen every day but the last -- when we probably just weren't paying enough attention!
EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula) [N]
Another common and widespread species, seen all but the final day. The rookery near our Chinon hotel gave us an especially good chance to study them -- particularly the poor, injured bird being attacked by magpies in the parking lot.
ROOK (Corvus frugilegus) [N]
Abundant in the rookery across from our Chinon hotel, with others rambling through fields across the region. The pale base to the bill of the adults and their baggy "trousers" help to distinguish them from the next species -- as does their habit of hanging around in big groups.
CARRION CROW (Corvus corone)
Daily, typically singly or in pairs.
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
CRESTED TIT (Lophophanes cristatus)
One along a track in the Chinon forest showed nicely as it flicked its way through the treetops. The jaunty pointed crest of this species is unique among Europe's tits.
MARSH TIT (Poecile palustris)
A pair in the woods near the confluence of the Loire and Vienne masqueraded as Eurasian Blackcaps when we first spotted them -- until one turned around! The tiny black "bib" of this species looks more like a mustache.
EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)
Easily the most common of the tour's tits, seen on all but the first day. They were typically in small family groups, with plenty of newly-fledged youngsters in tow.
GREAT TIT (Parus major)
Also common, though less so than the previous species. Their large size, big white cheek patches and black-striped yellow bellies made them easy to identify.
Alaudidae (Larks)
WOOD LARK (Lullula arborea)
Our best looks probably came on our last morning, when we found two sitting on wires near where we spotted our Black Woodpecker. We saw a couple in flight over a vineyard east of Chinon one morning, their lovely liquid songs raining down as they circled overhead.
EURASIAN SKYLARK (Alauda arvensis)
Particularly common in the Meron grasslands, where we saw some perched on weeds and scuttling around on the ground in addition to many hovering in extended song flights overhead. This is the species for which Ralph Vaughn Williams wrote his classical orchestral composition "A Lark Ascending", based on George Meredith's poem of the same name.
Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)
ZITTING CISTICOLA (Cisticola juncidis)
Single birds on multiple days, but only ever seen as tiny dots bounding over their territories. We certainly all heard their distinctive "zit zit zit" song though!
Acrocephalidae (Reed Warblers and Allies)
MELODIOUS WARBLER (Hippolais polyglotta)
Our first was a showy bird perched (and singing) in a dead tree near the viewpoint overlooking the confluence of the Loire and Vienne. We had even closer looks at another near our hotel on our final morning's walk. Their yellow underparts and long, orange bill are distinctive.
SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
One perched up, singing, in several small dead shrubs along the edge of Etang de l'Arche, allowing some good scope studies.
COMMON REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
Best seen along the edge of Etang de l'Arche, where two birds chased each other around a bit, periodically perching in the open. We heard others around the visitor's center in La Brenne.
GREAT REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
One danced through the reeds below us as we watched from the observation blind at Etang Ricot. On our tour route, this big warbler, which prefers tall, dense reedbeds, is only likely in La Brenne.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
One made several passes back and forth over the pond at Pas de Goubert in the company of a handful of Barn Swallows. This species is known as the Sand Martin in Europe.
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
Seen every day but the first, including regulars around both hotels. The subspecies found in Europe (rustica) is far paler underneath than North America's "erythrogaster" is.
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum) [N]
Common throughout, including some nesting under the eaves at Fontevraud Abbey, scores of nests on the keep at Chenonceau and dozens zooming around our second hotel. The white rump of this species helps to quickly identify it.
Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)
WOOD WARBLER (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)
One flicked through the oaks in the forest near Billy, peering down at us. This migratory species, which winters in tropical Africa, has very long, pointed wings -- the better to fly long distances with.
WESTERN BONELLI'S WARBLER (Phylloscopus bonelli)
Common in the Chinon forest, with one singing bird near where we parked proving especially cooperative. It certainly seems to be a twitchy species!
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
Regular throughout, seen or heard most days. I think everyone was able to confidently identify it by song pretty quickly; their distinctive song was certainly a regular part of the tour soundtrack. A couple of obliging birds around the pond at Pas de Goubert probably gave us our best views.
Scotocercidae (Bush Warblers and Allies)
CETTI'S WARBLER (Cettia cetti)
Arg. Though we heard the loud, explosive song of this waterside specialist on several days, we got only fleeting glimpses of one as it flashed across the pond at La Brenne's visitor's center. As usual, we heard far more than we saw.
Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)
A little gang of these aptly-named birds (which, though not REALLY tits, are certainly long-tailed) worked through the trees on the edge of the pond at Pas de Goubert. Most were youngsters, with somewhat shorter tails and drabber plumage.
Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers, Parrotbills, and Allies)
EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
The tour's most common warbler, seen and heard every day but the first. Most, including the one flicking through trees over our heads on the first morning's walk, were black-headed males, but at least a few were brown-headed females.
GARDEN WARBLER (Sylvia borin) [*]
Drat. Though we heard the rich, varied song of this species on several days, we couldn't entice the singers out into the open.
GREATER WHITETHROAT (Curruca communis)
After struggling to get good looks at our first (which was singing from hedgerows along a back road in the Brenne), we lucked into a much more cooperative bird feeding in a tree along the path out to the observation blind at Etang de la Sous.
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)
Finding this little species side by side with the next in the forest around Chambord allowed some nice comparisons -- of their songs as well as their looks. This is Europe's smallest bird.
COMMON FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)
Seen on the last four days of the tour (after many of us heard another at Villandry), including one peering down at us from the forest at Etang de l'Arche, and another in the same trees as our Goldcrests near Etoile de Boulogne.
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea)
Recorded on all but the first day (though only heard on our last), with especially good studies of a noisy family group with the next species along the track at Etang d'Assay our first morning.
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)
Another regular species, with small family parties in many of the woodlands we visited; youngsters had clearly just recently fledged all across the valley.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
EURASIAN WREN (Troglodytes troglodytes)
We certainly heard far more than we saw, but one singing male along the edge of the pond at Pas de Goubert performed admirably, sitting for long minutes in the open with his tail cocked well up over his back. This was formerly considered conspecific with (i.e. the same species as) the Winter Wren.
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
Daily, with plenty of begging brown youngsters trailing along after their parents. Surprisingly, this species is in steep decline across much of Europe, for reasons that have not yet been determined.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus)
Our best views came on our last morning, when we found one singing from a leafless snag not far from our hotel. This is larger and paler-plumaged than the next species, with a gray face and round spots on the breast and belly.
SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos)
Especially nice views of one hunting along a grassy path at Pas de Goubert, with others singing from pine trees in the Chinon forest and near where we found our Black Woodpecker. This is smaller and browner than the Mistle Thrush, with a browner face and arrowhead-shaped spots on the breast and belly. Its varied song is reminiscent of the Northern Mockingbird's.
EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)
Very common and widespread, seen daily -- including some bouncing along the promenade in Chinon and others hunting on the lawns of both hotels.
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)
Two in the forest north of Billy led us on a merry chase before finally perching where we could see them. These flycatchers are really streaked rather than spotted -- and pretty subtly streaked at that!
EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)
Another regular species, seen on all but the first day. Most were orange-bellied adults, but we did spy a speckly youngster in the forest near the confluence of the Loire and Vienne, and another in the forest north of Billy.
COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos)
Surprisingly scarce this year, with our best views coming along a backroad in La Brenne, when we found a singing bird sitting on some bare sticks. We had another pair ferrying mouthfuls to an out-of-sight nest near our second hotel one morning, and heard the distinctive songs of others near Etang d'Assay and Villandry.
COMMON REDSTART (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
A handsome male singing in the oaks near the (closed) restrooms at Pas de Goubert delayed our snack break a bit. We found another male singing near where we'd parked in the Chinon forest, though he proved far less obliging.
BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)
Regular throughout, including one singing from the rooftop of our second hotel each day, and others chasing insects in the Fontevraud Abbey. Their habit of quivering their distinctive rufous tails is a good behavioral field mark for the redstarts.
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola rubicola)
Seen on most days, often perched on roadside wires or tall weeds.
Prunellidae (Accentors)
DUNNOCK (Prunella modularis)
One perched up briefly at the dry Etang Ricot, seen by a few before it ducked back down into the reeds.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
Abundant throughout, including scores chirping from a colony in a stone wall near Etang d'Assay.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
Two with big mouthfuls of insects waggled their way along the edges of the pond at Pas de Goubert and made several flights across the water, waiting for us to move far enough away from where their nest must have been.
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (FLAVA) (Motacilla flava flava)
One along a country road we traveled en route to Etang d'Assay gave us some great scope views as it returned again and again to the same stretch of roadside wire to sing its challenges.
WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba)
Easily the most common of the tour's wagtails, seen nearly every day -- including an adult feeding a begging, short-tailed youngster on the grassy lawn outside the church at Fontevraud Abbey.
TREE PIPIT (Anthus trivialis)
One sang (and sang and sang) from the top of a tall pine in the Chinon forest, giving us the chance for multiple fine scope views.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)
Seen and heard regularly throughout, with particularly nice views of a male rummaging through the oak trees near where we parked in the Chinon forest.
EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)
Small numbers on several days, including one singing from trees in the courtyard of our first hotel and another -- well-camouflaged -- doing the same from a shrub in the "sun garden" at Villandry.
EURASIAN LINNET (Linaria cannabina)
Scattered individuals and pairs on half the days of the tour, including one pink male sitting up in a leafless treetop at Etang d'Assay, a pair on the wires at the Couly vineyard and a male singing from a treetop near our second hotel.
EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)
Common throughout, often bounding past in noisy little flocks.
EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)
The tinkling song of this handsome species was heard throughout, but we saw the singers only a couple of times. The swirling group along the track at Etang d'Assay weren't particularly cooperative, but the male near Chinon one morning proved admirably so -- singing lustily from the top of a juniper bush right near the road.
Emberizidae (Old World Buntings)
CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)
Our first was singing from a roadside wire, seen on the way to Etang d'Assay our first morning. In the scopes, we could even see the two extra prongs it has on the sides of its beak; these allow it to handle larger seeds. Our best views, though, probably came in the Meron grasslands, where several perched up on bushes and tall weeds.
CIRL BUNTING (Emberiza cirlus)
Especially nice views of a male singing from a wire -- and later a small tree -- near a vineyard east of Chinon, with others at a farm near the Meron grasslands and along the road where we found our Black Woodpecker. This species has undergone a big decline in the northern part of its range.
REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus) [*]
We heard one singing from across the Cher, near where we had our picnic lunch before visiting Villandry. Unfortunately, we couldn't find the right angle to actually see it.
MAMMALS
OLD WORLD RABBIT (Oryctolagus cuniculus)
A few on scattered days, including one nibbling the lawn at our second hotel on a couple of evenings while we ate our dinner.
EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus)
Daily -- some nibbling vegetation, others streaking away across fields and pastures. Their larger size; longer, black-tipped ears; pale eyes and black top-sided tails help to distinguish them from the previous species.
EUROPEAN RED SQUIRREL (Sciurus vulgaris)
One scuttled up and down the walls (and vines clinging to the walls) at the Chinon restaurant where we had lunch one day before plummeting down onto canvas cover sheltering our table and haring off across the road.
NUTRIA (Myocastor coypus) [I]
Probably seen best in the green pond behind our second hotel. One paddled under the observation blind at Etang de la Sous, and we saw another grooming itself among the snoozing Mallards at Etang d'Assay.
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
A muddy-pawed youngster -- surely far too young to be out on its own -- ambled down the track towards us at Etang de l'Arche, occasionally stopping to munch on something it found in the grass. It veered off into the forest shortly before reaching us. We saw a healthier-looking adult loping along the edge of a field in La Brenne.
ROE DEER (Capreolus capreolus)
A couple of individuals seen in roadside fields -- one near Etang d'Assay, the other on our way back from Billy.
HERPS
EDIBLE FROG (Pelophylax kl. esculentus)
The frogs we heard along the Vienne sound like this species, though the difference between the song of this and the Pool Frog (Pelophylax lessonae) are pretty slight. One that some of us got a picture of at the Pas de Goubert appeared to be this species, with a longer, more sharply pointed snout. Frogs are tough in France, where many species overlap. This is the species some had for lunch one day.
POOL FROG (Pelophylax lessonae)
The one several of us got pictures of at Etang d'Assay appears to be this species; its snout is shorter and blunter, and the tubercle on its hind foot appears to be relatively large and symmetrical.
VIVIPAROUS LIZARD (Zootoca vivipara)
One scurried across a sidewalk at Fontevraud Abbey and disappeared under a big flowerpot, shortly after we started our tour there.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Marcelo has provided this list of the wines we tried on the tour. For each, he's listed the winery, wine name, appellation, wine type and vintage.
Philippe Pain, Brut Blanc, Vin de France, Sparkling Wine, No Vintage
Philippe Brocourt, Les Champs Vignons, Chinon, White Wine, 2022
Château de Ligré, Bel Enfant, Chinon, Red Wine, 2014
Chinon Lambert, Mathilde, Chinon, Rose wine, 2021
Chateau des Rochettes, Pièces du Moulin, Anjou Villages, Red Wine, 2016
Domaine Les Méribelles, No name, Saumur, White Wine, 2022
Domaine Des Vallettes, Origine, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, Red Wine, 2021
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, Rosé, Chinon, Rose, 2021
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, Les Blancs Closeaux , Chinon, White, 2021
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, “C” , Chinon, Red, 2021
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, “V” , Chinon, Red, 2016
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, Saint Louans , Chinon, Red, 2019
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, La Haute Olive, Chinon, Red, 2018
M Plouzeau, Vive Chinon, Chinon, Rose Wine, 2022
Domaine Gouron, Cuvée La Croix Boissée, Chinon, Red Wine, 2014
Chateau de la Bonneliere, Les Devants de la Bonneliere, Touraine, Red Wine, 2022
Domaine Tabordet, LaBelle Oreille, Sancerre, White Wine, 2020
Julien et Clement Raimbault, Domaine du Pre Semele, Sancerre, Red Wine, 2020
Chateau Gaudrelle, L’extra Brut, Vouvray, Sparkling, 2016
Chateau Gaudrelle, Clos Le Vigneau, Vouvray, White Wine, 2022
Chateau Gaudrelle, Notre Methode, Vouvray, Sparkling, 2018
Domaine Jean-Christophe Mandard, Gamay Vieilles Vignes, Touraine, Red Wine, 2020
Chateau de la Haie-Thessente, Sur Lie, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, White Wine, 2021
Domaine de La Commanderie, Rose de Saigée, Chinon, Rose Wine, 2021
Dominique Roger, Domaine du Carrou, Sancerre, 2022
Wilfrid Rousse, Les Bois de Beaumont, Chinon, Red Wine, 2018
Guillaume Morin, Domaine du Vardet, Val de Loire, White Wine, 2022
Chavet, La Côte, Menetou Salon, Red Wine, 2022
Domaine Mandart, 1917, Crémant De Loire, Sparkling Wine, No Vintage
Domaine des Huards, Pure, Cheverny, White Wine, 2020
Gitton Pére et Fils, Clos Joanne D’orion, Pouilly-Fumé, White Wine, 2020
Jean-Christophe Mandard, Guyguy, Vin de France, Red Wine, 2020
Jean-Christophe Mandard, No name, Touraine, Rose Wine, 2020
Matthias e Emile Roblin, Origine, Sancerre, White Wine, 2021
Totals for the tour: 126 bird taxa and 6 mammal taxa