A Field Guides Birding Tours Report
FRANCE'S LOIRE VALLEY: BIRDS, CHATEAUX & WINE 2024
May 31-June 10, 2024 with Marcelo Padua & Megan Edwards Crewe guiding
Our Loire Valley tour combines one of our now-famous birds and wine tours with yet another component -- a bit of culture. In the mornings, we searched for birds in forests, grasslands, wetlands and agricultural areas between the scenic Loire River and several of its larger tributaries, with trips further afield to the diminishing Meron grasslands and the pond-pocked regions of the Sologne and La Brenne. At lunchtime, we feasted in area restaurants (with wines carefully chosen by Marcelo) or at gourmet catered picnics. And in the afternoons, we turned our attention to some of the region's myriad wineries and chateaux.
We started the tour (once we'd battled our way through the hideous traffic around Paris) with a four-night stay in the picturesque medieval town of Chinon, perched on the banks of the Vienne River. From our base there, we ventured out to nearby forest patches and agricultural areas, coming to grips with some of Europe's more common species. Black Redstarts and Eurasian Blackbirds sang from hotel walls as Common Swifts scythed past overhead. A Little Owl perched like a tiny ornament atop a telephone pole. Stock Doves waddled across sidewalks. Common Cuckoos shouted challenges and chased each other across fields. Eurasian Blue and Great tits swarmed through street trees in noisy little gangs. Melodious Warblers sang from bush tops -- sometimes through bulging mouthfuls of prey items. Eurasian Coots paddled on lakes, bringing food to their so-ugly-they're-cute red-headed youngsters.
The shrinking Meron grasslands, sandwiched now between agricultural fields, industrial estates and a roaring highway, still held remnant populations of their special birds, including two stripe-necked Little Bustards shouting challenges, a couple of huge-eyed Eurasian Thick-knees creeping along a field edge, several streaky Corn Buntings, a Zitting Cisticola that hovered right over our heads before dropping down to a nearby muck heap, and plenty of Eurasian Skylarks raining their songs down from the heavens as they hovered in flight displays. The Chinon forest, which helps to protect the valley's vineyards, harbored some special birds as well. Tree Pipits warbled from treetops, occasionally launching themselves into parachuting display flights. European Turtle-Doves purred from the forest edge. Multiple families of Western Bonelli's Warblers prowled along branches or hover-gleaned at the tips of twigs. A Crested Tit led us on a bit of a merry dance before finally revealing itself as it flicked through a big pine tree, searching for tidbits.
After four days, we moved east a few hours to Cours-Cheverny, which is located right on the edge of the Sologne. Waterbirds were among the highlights of this region, with three species of grebe (Great Crested, Little and Eared) carrying out parental duties at Etang de Beaumont, scores of handsome Red-crested Pochards mixing it up with their Common Pochard cousins on the Etang de la Gabriere, Gray and Purple herons stalking various lakesides, and dozens of Whiskered Terns (plus a few snowy-winged Mediterranean Gulls) circling over the Etang de l'Arche. A Middle Spotted Woodpecker flaunted itself in the open on a dead snag. A pair of Northern Lapwings shared a stubbled field with a handful of wary Gray Partridges. An Eurasian Jay gobbled apricots from a tree in someone's front garden. A Cirl Bunting sang from a roadside wire while a Wood Lark posed nearby. A Gray Wagtail preened on a stone wall. And who will soon forget the Eurasian Wryneck that called for long minutes from a succession of perches around a scrubby clearing, occasionally twisting its neck around in a way that made the "Jynx" of its scientific name more understandable?
Of course, on this tour, it's not just the birds that are the star attractants. The huge complex of Fontevraud Abbey, which once ranked among the largest and most influential of Europe's abbeys, was the site of a fascinating guided tour -- all about girl power in the Middle Ages. The complex patterns of Villandry's kitchen and formal gardens dazzled from the chateau's parapets and its informal gardens appealed to many of our green thumbs. Graceful Chenonceau stretched elegantly across the Cher, with most of its original furnishings still in place. And Chambord rounded out the set, staggering the imagination with its vast size (440 rooms that could sleep 2000!), Da Vinci's intriguing double-helix staircase and a roofline that resembles a fever-dream chess set.
No description of the tour would be complete without mentioning the gastronomic delights: 39 different wines during the course of the tour (Marcelo has provided the list below), and food enough for twice our number. Bertrand Couly himself led us around his family's Chinon winery and into the tasting room, where we sampled six red varietals paired nicely with locally sourced nibbles. We toured the chilly aging caves at Chateau Gaudrelle's wine production as well, and tasted six of their Vouvray sparkling and white varietals. Marcelo's friend Teca and her niece (and a friend) provided some splendid picnics at Villandry and Chambord. Altogether, it was a lovely, relaxing way to spend nine days at the turn of spring to summer!
Thanks so much for joining us for the adventures. It was sure fun sharing this corner of France with all of you! We hope to see you in the field again soon. Until then, happy birding!
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
GRAYLAG GOOSE (Anser anser)
A pair paddled across the Etang des Assarts, keeping a wary eye on us as we filed into the bird "hide" there.
CANADA GOOSE (Branta canadensis) [I]
Three preened at the far end of the Etang de Beaumont, surrounded by a host of smaller waterfowl. These geese have been widely introduced across Europe.
MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor)
Seen on most days, including a staggering 135 or so lounging on the Etang de la Gabriere. Talk about a nutrient load!!
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)
A trio floated among a horde of pochards, Mallards and Tufted Ducks on the Etang de la Gabriere, their distinctively large bills making them easy to pick out. This is primarily a winter visitor to France, though some are year-round residents in areas (like the Brenne) that are good for breeding.
GADWALL (Mareca strepera)
A single bird flew over us while we birded near the Etang de l'Arche, and we spotted another pair feeding together on the Etang de la Gabriere. This is another species that breeds only in a few places in France; most are only winter visitors.
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
Small numbers sprinkled on various ponds and waterways throughout the tour, including a female with four half-sized ducklings under a bridge in Chinon and another hen with a dozen mostly-grown youngsters on the Etang de la Gabriere.
RED-CRESTED POCHARD (Netta rufina)
Dozens floated on (or winged over) the Etang de la Gabriere; those males are real stunners! France has a few scattered breeding populations, but the bulk of the species breeds much further east, from the Black Sea to Central Asia and Mongolia.
COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)
A handful scattered across the Etang d'Assay and dozens of others on the Etang de l'Arche and in the Brenne. But our best views probably came at the Etang de Beaumont on our last morning, when we found a dozen close birds (males, females and half-grown youngsters) snoozing and preening on a fallen log right near the blind. This species strongly resembles the Redhead, to which it is closely related.
TUFTED DUCK (Aythya fuligula)
Small numbers on most of the etangs we visited, with especially nice looks at one male (periodically showing his "ponytail" nicely) on the Etang de l'Arche and of a closer pair sharing a fallen log with a bunch of Common Pochards at the Etang de Beaumont.
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
GRAY PARTRIDGE (Perdix perdix)
Some great spotting by Marcelo netted us a close pair sneaking away through a fallow farm field on our drive to the Etang de l'Arche. Unfortunately, our stopping freaked them out enough that they soon flew to the far end of the field -- though at least they kept peering at us from there, which allowed us to study them in the scopes. We found two pairs in the end.
RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus) [I]
Far more often heard than seen, but we did spot on handsome male streaking across a soccer field near the VIllandry parking lot and watched a warier female pick her way slowly across a farm field.
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
One among the larger ducks on the Etang de la Gabriere looked a bit like a floating powder puff. As its name suggests, this is Europe's smallest grebe.
GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)
Plenty of these handsome grebes floated on the region's lakes, with particularly satisfying looks at several birds on the Etang d'Assay and at busy parents with stripey-faced youngsters on the Etang de l'Arche.
EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis)
Our first were some distinctly peaked-headed birds way down at the far end of the Etang de Beaumont on our final morning. Fortunately, Wolfgang spotted a much closer bird right near the blind. When it wasn't underwater (which, admittedly, it mostly was), we got nice looks at the golden spray of feathers on the sides of its head.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
Plenty of "feral pigeons" in Paris and a few bigger towns in the Loire Valley, plus some big flocks of racing pigeons streaking northwards over the forest near Villesavin.
STOCK DOVE (Columba oenas)
Our best looks came on our very first morning in Chinon, when we found a couple of birds trundling around on the promenade right across the street from our hotel. The dark eye, yellow bill and and lack of a white rump help to separate this from the similar Rock Dove.
COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)
Abundant and widespread, seen in good numbers every day of the tour. And their five-note song ("a big wood pigeon") was certainly a regular part of the tour's soundtrack!
EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)
We heard the purring song of this smaller species regularly too, and had some nice looks at birds perched on wires in a number of places. Their rust-edged wing feathers and dark underwings quickly distinguish them from their larger cousins.
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
Far less common than the wood-pigeons, though also seen daily -- including a pair snuggled up together on a television aerial right across the street from our lunch restaurant on the final day of the tour.
Otididae (Bustards)
LITTLE BUSTARD (Tetrax tetrax)
Marcelo heard the "farting" calls of this declining species shortly after we reached the Meron grasslands, and we soon located a couple of males displaying on the far side of a clover field. Della spotted when they sprang into flight some time later, and we got to see their boldly patterned wings as they coursed over the grasslands -- at one point coming straight towards us. Wow!
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)
Regular throughout, though far more often heard than seen; their distinctive "cuckoo clock" calls delighted those who'd never heard them in person before. We spotted our first (actually our first THREE) in flight over fields near the Etang d'Assay, and finally got scopes on a perched bird across the Loire at Brehemont.
Apodidae (Swifts)
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
Abundant in the skies over Chinon, where they gathered in screaming flocks; we even found one nesting in a hole in the wall at our hotel. This was another bird we saw in good numbers on every day of the tour.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
Small numbers on most days, typically mooching along the edge of a reed bed or chugging across a corner of an etang. This species was recently split from the Common Gallinule of the Americas.
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)
Regular on ponds and waterways throughout the tour, including one preening on a log at the Etang d'Assay (where we could see its giant lobed toes) and frenetic parents with red-headed youngsters in tow on the Etang de l'Arche. One adult even aggressively chased off a heron that got a little too close -- perhaps one reason why some of those pairs only appeared to have a single chick!
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
EURASIAN THICK-KNEE (Burhinus oedicnemus)
A pair sneaking along the edge of a crop field near our Little Bustards were icing on the cake of a productive pre-breakfast outing in the Meron grasslands. With the scopes, we could see the patterned wings and huge yellow eyes of these unusual shorebirds -- which don't typically spend much time near the shore.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)
A pair in a fallow field near Saint-Martin, near our furtive Gray Partridges. These were far more obliging, standing in the open to preen and giving us good views of their jaunty, spiky head plumes.
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
One flew by, calling loudly, as we climbed out of the vans to have a look at our Gray Partridges. This, the largest of the Europe's shorebirds, is resident across much of France.
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
One flew past along the Loire while we birded near the gypsy camp -- good spotting, Wolfgang! This species is closely related to the Spotted Sandpiper of the Americas (though it lacks the spots) and has the same fluttering, stiff-winged flight style.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Reasonably common along various rivers and etangs throughout, with especially nice views of nesting birds in the Brenne and good studies of birds in flight over the Etang de la Gabriere. This one really should have been called BROWN-headed Gull, given its chocolate-brown hood.
MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)
Nice flight views of a half dozen or so adults over the Etang de l'Arche. Their snowy-white wings gleamed against the blue, blue sky as their distinctive "yow" calls drifted down.
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (Larus michahellis)
A pair resting on a log along a roadside river gave us our first look, and we saw others flying along the Loire near Villandry and resting on sandy islands in the stream near the gypsy camp. Though it was formerly considered to be a subspecies of the Herring Gull, DNA studies show that the Yellow-legged Gull is actually more closely related to the Great Black-backed Gull!
LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)
Some super views of these aptly named terns -- smallest in Europe -- at Brehemont, along the Loire. They strongly resemble their close cousin, the Least Tern of the Americas.
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
Good numbers of these handsome terns on the Etang de l'Arche, with others seen well at the Etang des Cistudes and the Etang de Beaumont. These are "marsh terns", found almost exclusively around freshwater marshes rather than at coastal locations.
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
Primarily seen along the Loire, including some that flew by at close range shortly after a quartet of Little Terns for good comparison at Brehemont. We also saw a few over the Etang de la Breche, near where we found the big Western Cattle Egret colony.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Small numbers on several days, including a quintet drying their wings at the far edge of the Etang de l'Arche and flybys over Savigny-en-Veron and the Etang de la Gabriere.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (EURASIAN) (Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax)
Fairly common throughout, including a mix of adults and youngsters at the Etang de la Breche, and singles flying past at the Etang de l'Arche and the Etang de la Gabriere.
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
A few around the Etang de la Breche, but more common on the second half of the tour. This is the Old World replacement for the Snowy Egret, and has the same "golden slippers".
WESTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus ibis)
Abundant throughout, often in sizable groups in freshly mown fields; inexplicably though, it was missing from our checklist! The clamoring hordes of youngsters in a rookery at the Etang de la Breche were particularly entertaining. This species has just been split from the Eastern Cattle Egret, which is found from India through southeastern Asia to Australia.
GREAT EGRET (ALBA) (Ardea alba alba)
One seen near a Gray Heron on the back edge of the Etang de l'Arche. This is a fairly uncommon species in northwestern Europe, though it is slowly extending its breeding range northwards. Unlike North America's birds, this subspecies has a black bill in breeding plumage.
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
Sprinkled across ponds and wetlands all throughout the tour. This species is closely related to North America's Great Blue Heron.
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
Far scarcer than the previous species, with only a handful seen -- and never for long. We spotted one in flight along the edge of the Etang de l'Arche which quickly dropped out of view and another that did the same at the Etang de la Gabriere, though at least that one landed up in the reeds for a bit first. But our best sightings of these dark herons were the ones we saw in flight, like the one that flapped past us in the Brenne as we walked out to the Etang des Essarts.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
One circled over the Etang de l'Arche, then made a splashing, but unsuccessful, attempt to catch a fish. It's always impressive to see them shake themselves off as they fly away -- such coordination!
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
BLACK-WINGED KITE (AFRICAN) (Elanus caeruleus caeruleus)
One perched in a dead tree along a back road, seen as we drove towards the Meron grasslands, was a surprise. Unfortunately, it flew off across the fields before we could all pile out of the vans. This subspecies is typically found as far north as the Iberian peninsula, though it is slowly expanding northeastwards into France.
EUROPEAN HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis apivorus)
Two circled over us as we birded along a quiet track in Savigny-en-Veron, showing the subtly narrower heads, longer pale tails and dark "lozenges" at the bend of their wings that help distinguish them from the Common Buzzard.
SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)
One glided over shortly after we arrived at the Etang de Beaumont. The large head of this species is primarily feathers -- the better to protect the bird from potential snake strikes.
WESTERN MARSH HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
Several seen on our walk out to (and back from) the Etang des Essarts in the Brenne, including one golden-headed female who made several low passes over the far edge of the lake.
BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans)
Regular this year, with singles seen on more than half the days of the tour, including one keeping a close eye on a farmer mowing his field (which was also attracting a handful of Western Cattle Egrets) and another near where we spied our European Honey-Buzzards.
COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)
Common throughout, either perched on wires or fenceposts, or circling in the skies overhead. As we saw, this species comes in a variety of color morphs.
Strigidae (Owls)
LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)
We were searching for a Great Spotted Woodpecker we'd seen fly across the road, but that search was interrupted when Marcelo spotted one of these feisty little predators perched atop a nearby telephone pole. It sat placidly on its perch while we ogled it for long minutes in the scopes -- behavior that netted it a runaway first place in the "Bird of the Trip" competition!
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)
There was great despair when only Marcelo and Wolfgang spotted the first (seen when they retrieved Wolfgang's binoculars from the Couly vineyard). A distant bird flapping across the back edge of a field near Saint-Martin wasn't much of an improvement, though at least we could hear it calling. Fortunately, we had much better looks at one (or more) that flew past several times while we explored near Villesavin.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)
Our first was a jewel-bright flash among the trees on the far side of the Loire at Brehemont. Many in the group saw another that Della spotted at the Etang des Cistudes on our afternoon in the Brenne.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
EURASIAN WRYNECK (Jynx torquilla)
One sang -- loud and long -- from a succession of trees around a scrubby field in the forest of Chambord, giving us some fine scope views. This aberrant woodpecker has had a rough history in Europe; they were long persecuted by superstitious people in the Middle Ages, who thought they were ridden by witches! This one took second place in the "Bird of the Trip" competition.
MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocoptes medius)
Our first was a rather elusive bird in the Chinon forest. Fortunately, we found a far more obliging individual at Villesavin which perched right in the open on a dead tree. Many saw another pair at a nest hole in the forest at Boulogne, while we searched for Goldcrests.
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos major)
A couple of recently fledged (and loudly begging) youngsters in the campground around the Etang de la Breche were the only ones we actually saw, though we heard others calling on several days.
EURASIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus viridis)
This was another species we heard several times before finally laying eyes one. After watching several of these big woodpeckers bound past at various places, we finally got a view of a "perched" bird -- a newly-fledged youngster fluttering its ungainly way up a trunk right beside the road on our drive to the Etang de l'Arche.
BLACK WOODPECKER (Dryocopus martius)
With patience -- and lots of persistence -- most of us got some kind of view (many in the scopes) of one of these big woodpeckers along a forested edge visible from the track to the Etang des Essarts. We certainly all heard him!
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
Common throughout, missed only on our very first day. Many were seen only in hovering flight, but one perched on a utility wire near Villesavin gave us the chance to study him in the scopes.
EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)
Our first was a speedy bird that shot across the road in front of Marcelo's van as we drove to the Meron grasslands. Fortunately (for those who missed the first one), we had much better looks at another hunting over the houses near the Loire in Brehemont.
Psittaculidae (Old World Parrots)
ROSE-RINGED PARAKEET (Psittacula krameri) [I]
Some of the group spotted a few flyovers at our Paris hotel, while waiting for the group to assemble for our final dinner. This is another species which has been widely introduced across Europe.
Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
EURASIAN GOLDEN ORIOLE (Oriolus oriolus)
We heard the rich, burbling song of this handsome species on more than half the days of the tour, but only ever saw it in flight -- despite repeated attempts to find a perched one! Our last sighting, of a trio of birds in the sky over Saint-Martin, was probably our best. Two females and a male circled, interacting with each other as they moved from one wooded patch to another.
Laniidae (Shrikes)
RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)
Regular at the back end of the tour, including a busy pair hunting from a fence line on the walk out to the Etang des Essarts, others (including one that chased our wryneck) near the Prieure de Boulogne, and one in the field near the Etang de Beaumont on our final morning. Like many shrikes, this one regularly impales its prey on spiky plants and barbed wire fences.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)
Small numbers throughout, with our best looks coming on our very last morning, when we found one eating apricots from a tree in a front garden in Cour-Cheverny.
EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)
Very common throughout our tour route, with multiple birds seen every day. It was formerly considered conspecific with the Black-billed Magpie, but the latter was split on the basis of behavior and voice -- both of which are closer to that of Yellow-billed Magpie than Eurasian Magpie.
EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)
Missed on a few days, but it must have been because we weren't looking hard enough! They were common and widespread most places, with some particularly good looks at their pale eyes and gray napes on the stone wall along the promenade in Chinon.
ROOK (Corvus frugilegus)
Another common species, particularly around Chinon, though almost all were seen only in flight. Like the previous species, this one is very social, nesting and feeding in big groups.
CARRION CROW (Corvus corone)
Another species seen daily, though only in ones and twos. Unlike the other Corvus species, this one typically only associates with its mate (and offspring of the year, once they've hatched).
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
CRESTED TIT (Lophophanes cristatus)
It took a bit of effort, but we finally connected with one of these little charmers along a track in the Chinon forest. After making us work for some frustrating minutes, it eventually flaunted itself right at the end of some branches as it rummaged for tidbits.
EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)
Small parties on most days, with especially nice looks at one family group swirling around the Chinon promenade on our first pre-breakfast walk there, and of another busy gang with the Western Bonelli's Warblers in the Chinon forest.
GREAT TIT (Parus major)
Regular throughout, with lots of yellow-faced youngsters in the mix. Their size (bigger than the other tit species) and broad black belly stripes make this one easy to identify.
Alaudidae (Larks)
WOOD LARK (Lullula arborea)
One on a wire near Villesavin gave us some great scope views; its super-long hind claw was clearly visible.
EURASIAN SKYLARK (Alauda arvensis)
At least a half dozen hovered high over the Meron grasslands, pouring their complex songs into the still morning air. We had others doing the same over the field where we found our Gray Partridges, and in the Brenne. This is the species immortalized in poet George Meredith's "The Lark Ascending" -- which in turn was the inspiration for a piece for violin and piano by composer Ralph Vaughan Williams.
Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)
ZITTING CISTICOLA (Cisticola juncidis)
Normally, these little passerines are seen only as small dots bounding over their grassy territories, making distinctive "zit" calls as they go -- and that's how we experienced most of them. But we got amazingly lucky with one territorial bird in the Meron grasslands; it hovered right over our heads before landing on a nearby muck heap!
Acrocephalidae (Reed Warblers and Allies)
MELODIOUS WARBLER (Hippolais polyglotta)
Particularly nice views of a yellow-tinged bird along the path to the Etang des Essarts -- singing from a treetop through a mouthful of prey items! We saw another atop a bush in the Meron grasslands and still more in Brehemont, along the Loire River.
SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
Splendid views of one in the reeds right in front of the blind at the Etang de Beaumont. It clearly had a nest low among the vegetation, returning again and again with mouthfuls of food. We heard another singing lustily from a shrub at the Etang des Cistudes, and most of the group got a look at it when it moved to trees closer to the path.
COMMON REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
We found our first pair along the edge of the Etang de l'Arche, but they proved frustratingly elusive as they slipped through the reeds along the water's edge. Another bird in the reeds across from the restaurant at the Etang de la Gabriere proved far more cooperative.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
We saw surprisingly few of these this year, finding them only along the Loire near the Chateau de Villandry. They soared over our heads while we waited for the final touches to be done for our delicious picnic there.
BARN SWALLOW (WHITE-BELLIED) (Hirundo rustica rustica)
Common throughout, with particularly nice looks at one perched on a wire near the restaurant at the Etang de la Gabriere. The subspecies in Europe -- rustica -- is much paler-bellied than are birds from North America.
WESTERN HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)
Common and widespread, including scores nesting under the eaves of the keep at the Chateau de Chenonceau. Their white rumps made them easy to pick out in flight.
Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)
WESTERN BONELLI'S WARBLER (Phylloscopus bonelli)
We hit the motherlode of these little leaf-warblers in the Chinon forest. At least three busy family groups swirled through the oaks around us, hovering repeatedly at branch tips as they searched for prey items. We heard another singing from the forest near the Prieure de Boulogne.
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
Another very common warbler, though more often heard than seen. A singing bird along the track at Savigny-en-Veron showed nicely, as did another near the tumbledown barn at Saint-Martin. Everybody certainly knew its onomatopoeic song by the end of the tour!
Scotocercidae (Bush Warblers and Allies)
CETTI'S WARBLER (Cettia cetti)
Another skulker that was heard on most days, but seen only on our first encounter, when we found a trio of noisily begging youngsters following an adult through bushes near the parking lot at the Etang d'Assay.
Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)
A noisy little gang swirled over our heads, showing well for some and not at all (or not much) for others as we worked our way back along the track from the Etang des Cistudes.
Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers and Allies)
EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
Probably the most commonly seen warbler of the trip, with a few brown-capped females spotted among the far more prevalent males. Their loud, complex songs were a regular part of the tour's soundtrack.
GREATER WHITETHROAT (Curruca communis)
Another fairly common species, with particularly nice looks at one perched up and singing in a field near the Etang d'Assay and another along the track to the Etang des Essarts.
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)
Superb views of a wing-flicking pair in some big conifers in the Chambord forest, showing nicely their pale eye rings and golden crown stripes. This is one of the smallest European birds.
COMMON FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)
Our first played peek-a-boo from the London Plain trees along Chinon's promenade on our first pre-breakfast walk, and we saw others in the Chinon forest. But our best views probably came at Le Petit Villesavin, where we found a close pair rummaging through some branches near the road.
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea)
A calling bird along one of the tracks through the Chinon forest proved elusive for some, though it showed well for others. Fortunately, we found a far more confiding pair in the woods near Villesavin; they crawled up a pale trunk in full view of everybody. This species is less likely to climb "head down" than are North American nuthatches.
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)
Regular throughout (though often only heard) with some great studies of three birds creeping around in a big tree trunk near the main building at the Etang de la Breche and of another near Villesavin. This species strongly resembles the Brown Creeper, to which it is closely related.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
EURASIAN WREN (Troglodytes troglodytes)
Far more often heard than seen, but we had a super encounter with one territorial bird in the campground near the Etang de la Breche and another showy singer at one of our stops along the Loire on our transfer day. His little tail was cocked so far over his back!
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
Daily, including plenty of adults with begging brown youngsters in tow.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos)
A few folks saw one flush off the road as we drove towards the Etang de l'Arche our first morning, but generally this was a heard-only bird. And hear it we did -- sounding much like a Northern Mockingbird, with a long series of repeated phrases.
EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)
Another every day bird, including a male who serenaded us from the courtyard of our Chinon hotel every morning -- starting at 5:00, Val reported!
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)
Bill spotted our first, perched beside a track near the Etang d'Assay. Two or three others flitted through the trees with the Western Bonelli's Warblers in the Chinon Forest, some of us spotted another at the Couly vineyard, and we found a final one near where we saw our Goldcrests.
EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)
Small numbers throughout, including an eye-level bird along the Chinon promenade our first morning and others in the Chinon forest and at the Etang de l'Arche. The slightly mournful song of this species was another regular part of the tour soundtrack.
COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos) [*]
These proved frustratingly elusive this year. Though we heard them singing on six (!!) different days, we were never able to actually lay eyes on a single one. Arg!
COMMON REDSTART (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
One sang from a television aerial near our hotel's parking lot in Cour-Cheverny, until it was spooked off by a landing wood-pigeon. Fortunately, we had even better views of another male near the "star intersection" in the Boulogne forest.
BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)
Another common species, particularly around Chinon (including at our hotel) and the Fontevraud Abbey (where several sang from various rooftops). We had another singing from a chimney pot at Brehemont, and on the shed roof at the Prieure de Boulogne.
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola rubicola)
A pair hunting along the fence line (and from the top of a jungle gym) near the parking lot at the Etang d'Assay put a nice finishing touch on our visit there. We saw others near the Etang de l'Arche and in the Brenne.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
Another one of our "every day" birds, which isn't surprising, given how well they've adapted to living alongside humans! The Fontevraud Abbey was doing its best to help, putting up a plethora of nest boxes around one of the buildings.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
Splendid views of a couple along the stream at the entrance to the Chateau de Chenonceau, including one that spent long minutes preening on a wall right near where we stood. This is the longest-tailed of Europe's wagtails.
WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba)
Seen on every day but the first, often striding around on a sidewalk or parking lot right in the middle of town. This is the shortest-tailed of Europe's wagtails -- but there's still plenty to wag, and wag they do!
TREE PIPIT (Anthus trivialis)
One singing its heart out from evergreens in Chinon forest was very cooperative, perching repeatedly in places where we could study him in the scopes. He did a number of parachuting display flights (undoubtedly encouraged to do so by the presence of another vigorously singing male just down the road), settling repeatedly right at the tops of trees.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)
Common and widespread throughout the tour, with dozens seen well -- including a confiding male bouncing around under the tables at our Chambord picnic, searching for scraps.
EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)
Some of us caught up with one handsome bird in the Villandry parking lot, but the rest had to wait until we found others atop the little trees in the parking lot of the Prieure de Boulogne. We heard their wheezy songs on a number of occasions.
EURASIAN LINNET (Linaria cannabina)
Pairs seen on scattered days, including some bounding around the Meron grasslands and a quartet hopping in the road near the Prieure de Boulogne. That reddish male is an eyeful!
EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)
Regular throughout, typically in small, tinkling flocks. The ones along the fence line at the Prieure de Boulogne -- flustered when a newly fledged youngster got into the long grass and disappeared from view -- gave us particularly nice looks.
EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)
Emberizidae (Old World Buntings)
CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)
Regular in the Meron grasslands, where we had good scope looks at several, with others on roadside wires, particularly in areas with cereal crops. This species is declining in northwestern Europe, primarily due to changes in agricultural practices and climate change.
CIRL BUNTING (Emberiza cirlus)
A male singing from a wire near a farm in the Villesavin woodlands was one of the new birds we found on our morning there, and we heard another at Etang de Beaumont on our last morning. The trill of this handsome species is reminiscent of the song of a Dark-eyed Junco or a Chipping Sparrow.
YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella)
A bright yellow male perched on a tall weed in a field near the Etang d'Assay allowed some nice scope studies. This species has a very appropriate song for a French bird -- transcribed by Beatrix Potter as "just a little bit of bread and some CHEEEEEEESE"!
MAMMALS
EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus)
Our first were little more than a few sets of long ears poking up from the tall grasses of the Meron grasslands. Fortunately, a couple of out-in-the-open animals near Saint-Martin proved far more confiding, giving us the chance for some nice scope studies.
NUTRIA (Myocastor coypus) [I]
Wolfgang spotted our first, swimming across the Etang de l'Arche, and we saw another at the Etang des Essarts the following day. First introduced to France for the fur trade in the 1800s (and released in huge numbers the 1930s when the Great Depression spread across the globe and dropped demand for furs), this species has become a huge invasive problem across much of the EU.
ROE DEER (Capreolus capreolus)
A few seen by a few folks in fields along the highways as we traveled to and from various sites.
HERPS
NATTERJACK TOAD (Epidalea calamita)
The tiny toadlet we found along the track to the Etang des Essarts was this species, distinguished from both Common and Spiny toads by the yellow stripe down its back.
MARSH FROG (Pelophylax ridibundus)
Listening to calls of frog species online after I got home confirmed that we were seeing and hearing this one in wetlands all across the region.
WESTERN GREEN LIZARD (Lacerta bilineata)
Some lovely views of these handsome emerald lizards along the trail to the Etang des Cistudes, including one right near the parking lot.
COMMON WALL LIZARD (Podarcis muralis)
This was the smaller brown lizard with the darker sides edged in yellow stripes that some of us saw along the track to the Etang des Cistudes in the Brenne.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Here's the list of wines we sampled on the tour, provided by Marcelo. Each entry shows the following: Winery, Wine name, Appellation, Wine type, Vintage
Les Celliers de la Loire, Muscadet, Sevre et Maine, White Wine, 2022
Clos de la Hegronniere, Vendanges 2019, Chinon, Red Wine, 2019
Gratien & Meyer, Cuvee Flamme, Cremant de Loire, Sparkling Brut Rose, No vintage
Chateau du Bourg Joly, Sakura, Chenin IGP, White Wine, 2020
Domaine La Folie Luce, Pacha, Saumur Champigny, Red Wine, 2020
Amirault Vignerons, Les Quarterons, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil, Red Wine, 2021
Serge et Bruno Sourdais, Le Logis de la Bouchardiere, Chinon, Rose, 2023
Couly-Dutheil, Les Chanteaux, Chinon, Red Wine, 2021
Couly-Dutheil, Domaine Rene Couly, Chinon, Red Wine, 2018
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, Les Blancs Closeaux , Chinon, White Wine, 2023
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, “R”, Chinon, Rose, 2021
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, “C” , Chinon, Red Wine, 2022
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, “V” , Chinon, Red Wine, 2018
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, Saint Louans, Chinon, Red Wine, 2020
Pierre & Bertrand Couly, La Haute Olive, Chinon, Red Wine, 2017
Philippe Brocourt, Les Champs Vignons, Chinon, White Wine, 2023
Famille Berthier, Sancerre, Sancerre, White Wine, 2022
Famille Berthier, Sancerre Pinot Noir, Sancerre, Red Wine, 2021
SAS des Petits Quarts, Au Pied Du Mur, Bonnezeaux, Dessert Wine, 2022
Chateau Gaudrele, Notre Methode, Vouvray, Sparkling Wine, 2019
Chateau Gaudrele, L’extra Brut, Vouvray, Sparkling Wine, 2019
Chateau Gaudrele, Turonien, Vouvray, White Wine, 2023
Chateau Gaudrele, Clos Le Vigneau, Vouvray, White Wine, 2022
Chateau Gaudrele, Ammonite Chenin, Vouvray, White Wine, 2022
Chateau Gaudrele, Reserve Personnelle, Vouvray, Dessert Wine, 2016
Domaine du Clos Naudin, Foreau, Vouvray, White Wine, 2019
Benoit Daridan, L’intemporel, Cheverny, White Wine, 2022
Benoit Daridan, Vieilles Vignes, Cour Cheverny, White Wine, 2022
Domaine de la Desoucherie, Quartet de la Desoucherie, Cheverny, Red Wine, 2020
Herve Baudry, Domaine de Rome, Sancerre, White Wine, 2022
Vigneau-Chevreau, Cuvee Silex, Vouvray, White Wine, 2018
Clos de Beauregard, Chavet, Menetou-Salon, Red Wine, 2021
Chateau du Breuil, Coteaux du Layon, Coteaux du Layon, Dessert Wine, 2022
Henri Bourgeois, Grande Reserve, Sancerre, White Wine, 2022
Michel et Arnaud Quenioux, Argilo, Cheverny, Red Wine, 2019
Nicolas Gaudry, Nicolas Gaudry, Pouilly-Fume, White Wine, 2022
Domaine du Moulin a Tau, Les Vieilles Vignes, Chinon, Red Wine, 2020
Domaine Regis Minet, Desert, Pouilly-fume, White Wine, 2021
Domaine Ogereau, Les Tailles, Anjou-villages, Red Wine, 2018
Totals for the tour: 110 bird taxa and 3 mammal taxa