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Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)

MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor)

Regular on waterways throughout the Camargue, including dozens on a channel near the Salin de Giraud and a fuzzy, gray youngster preening in a pond at Scamandre.

NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)

A handful of eclipse-plumaged birds floated among the Mallards on one of the pans at Fangassier.

MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)

By far the most common duck of the tour, seen in big numbers around the Camargue.

GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)

A big raft of these small ducks (considered a separate species -- the Eurasian Teal -- by some taxonomic authorities) snoozed on a muddy islet at Scamandre while a few others floated on a pond nearby.

Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)

RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus)

A male crouched beside the edge of the road as we drove to Mejanes one morning, frozen for several long seconds before he finally fled across the nearby canal in a flurry of wings.

RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGE (Alectoris rufa) [*]

We heard the gruff calls of this species at a patch of the Crau steppe we visited on our way to the Peau de Meau, and a few of the group may have seen one slipping through the dry vegetation there. Or it may have been a thick-knee!

Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)

GREATER FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus roseus)

Hundreds, dotted on just about every waterway we passed in the Camargue. We watched some feeding near a roundabout in Aigues-Mortes, stomping to stir up the mud with their heads hidden underwater.

Podicipedidae (Grebes)

LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)

Seen on most days in the Camargue, with our best views probably coming at the freshwater marsh near Mas d'Agon, where a group of a half dozen floated and dove on one of the ponds. We saw others at the Salin de Giraud and Scamandre.

GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)

Scattered birds on many of the larger ponds and lakes we visited in the Camargue, including one feeding a fairly drab chick that was almost as big as its parent.

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)

Common in the bigger cities and towns we passed through. Though wild Rock Doves once bred in parts of southern France, all of the birds we saw were feral.

COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)

Abundant in the lowlands, where their huge size and flashy white wing stripes made them easy to identify. We saw far fewer in the mountains.

EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)

A couple of soggy birds rested among a huge group of Eurasian Collared-Doves in dead trees near a sunflower field in the Camargue, showing their rusty, scaled back feathers and spotty necks nicely in the scopes. We saw drier birds well along the boardwalk trail at Scamandre, on our way to the mountains.

EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)

Very common in the lowlands, particularly around our Arles hotel. Their somewhat mournful three-note song was a regular part of the tour soundtrack for the first half of the trip.

Otididae (Bustards)

LITTLE BUSTARD (Tetrax tetrax)

Finding a close group of more than a dozen mooching through the grass at the Montpellier airport certainly got things off to a good start! This species is declining all across Europe.

Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)

EURASIAN NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus europaeus)

Some of the group spotted one -- or if they were very lucky, two -- as they coursed over the trees at our eagle-owl spot near Les Baux. We all heard their distinctive chirrups and trilling calls though.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

WATER RAIL (Rallus aquaticus)

You had to be quick and lucky -- and looking in the right direction -- to see one or the other of a pair that sprinted across a series of gaps in the vegetation at the Salin de Giraud. We certainly all heard them calling!

EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus chloropus)

A few in scattered locations around the Camargue, including one preening on an islet near the boardwalk at Scamandre. This species was recently split from the similar Common Gallinule of the Americas.

EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)

Abundant everywhere in the Camargue, with some particularly big rafts of birds on the Etang de Vaccares. These are the vanguard of the tens of thousands that will be arriving in the coming weeks to winter in the area.

WESTERN SWAMPHEN (Porphyrio porphyrio)

At least four rummaged along the shores of some of the bigger etangs at Scamandre, showing nicely their red bills and shields, bluey-purple plumage and long red legs. This is a relatively "new" species, recently split from the former Purple Swamphen complex.

Burhinidae (Thick-knees)

EURASIAN THICK-KNEE (Burhinus oedicnemus)

One snoozed on the stony Crau steppe, occasionally opening its large yellow eyes for a quick look around. This species is also known as "Stone-curlew" in Europe.

Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)

BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)

Particularly common in the salt pans of Salin de Giraud, where dozens marched around on long, pink legs. We saw others at the Tour Carbonniere, Mas d'Agon and Scamandre.

PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)

Dozens at Salin de Giraud, where we watched some sweeping the waters with their long, curved beaks. We saw others at Fangassier and Scamandre.

Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)

BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola)

Particularly nice looks at a dozen or so along the fringes of the pond near La Capeliere, including some still in fine breeding plumage. We saw others at Fangassier.

COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula)

Regular along the muddy fringes of ponds and lakes across the Camargue, with some in nice comparison with the next species at Salin de Giraud and Scamandre. This stocky little plover typically shows the boldest neck rings of the small plovers, and its stout orange legs and orange-based beak are distinctive too.

LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius)

Quite common in the ponds around the Tour Carbonniere, with others at Salin de Giraud and Scamandre. This species is slimmer and "daintier" than the previous, with longer wings, slimmer yellowish legs and a diagnostic yellow eye ring.

NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)

A few around the Tour Carbonniere, with many more sprinkled on a flooded roadside field on the way to Salin de Giraud. We also watched a few brave birds dive-bombing a passing Common Buzzard -- which was definitely in a hurry to leave the area.

KENTISH PLOVER (KENTISH) (Anarhynchus alexandrinus alexandrinus)

Good numbers of these pale little plovers pattered across the mudflats at Salin de Giraud, looking rather washed out compared to nearby Common and Little Ringed plovers. This species was split from the Snowy Plover.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)

EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)

A dozen probed the bottom of a shallow pond at Fangassier, others foraged and preened along the back edge of the pond near La Capeliere, and still more rummaged in various ponds at Scamandre. Though similar in appearance to the Whimbrel, this species is larger, with a longer bill and a plainer face.

COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago)

Especially nice looks on the mudflats around Tour Carbonniere, where they foraged among the other shorebirds. Their very long, straight beaks made them easy to identify in flight too! We saw others along the fringes of the pond near La Capeliere and at Scamandre. This was once considered conspecific with Wilson's Snipe.

COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)

Regular in small numbers throughout the Camargue, typically waggling along the edges of ponds and canals. This species is closely related to the Spotted Sandpiper, and has the same white "spur" in front of its folded wing (i.e. while on the ground) and same stiff-winged flight.

GREEN SANDPIPER (Tringa ochropus)

One stood at the edge of one of the first salt pans at the Salin de Giraud, looking very like a Solitary Sandpiper (to which it is closely related). Like the Solitary, this one has a blackish underwing, which is easily visible in flight.

WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)

Quite common on the mudflats at Tour Carbonniere, with even closer views of a double handful in a pond at Scamandre. The broad eyebrow and white rump of this leggy shorebird are good field marks.

COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)

Singles at a few locations in the Camargue: along the banks of the Etang des Vaccares, in the pond near La Capeliere and at Scamandre. The broad white wedge along the back edge of its outstretched wing is diagnostic.

SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus)

One with a trio of Common Redshanks and a Common Greenshank showed nicely the very long, finely-tipped beak of this species. Its overall darkness and the uniform barring on its underparts showed it was a youngster.

COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)

Jeff and I spotted one at the Tour Carbonniere, but it took until the next day (at the Etang des Vaccares) before the rest of the group caught up. We saw another near La Capeliere. This is the largest and palest of the Tringa sandpipers we saw.

RUFF (Calidris pugnax)

Small numbers on most days in the Camargue, with most showing the distinctively "rucked up" back feathers that can help to distinguish them from other large, feeding shorebirds. A brightly patterned youngster feeding in a nearby pond at Scamandre probably gave us our best views.

TEMMINCK'S STINT (Calidris temminckii)

A couple crept around on the mudflats at the Tour Carbonniere, in nice comparison with nearby Little Stints. This one is plainer overall, with a distinctive gray upper breast, pale legs and a long tail with white outer tail feathers -- which some of us saw when one flew.

DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)

Quite common on the pans of Salin de Giraud, with others at Scamandre. Most still showed the distinctive dark bellies of their breeding plumage.

LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)

Dozens pattered on the mudflats at Tour Carbonniere, and hundreds of others rummaged in the pans at Salin de Giraud. This is typically the most common shorebird of the tour.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)

SLENDER-BILLED GULL (Chroicocephalus genei)

Willy came through repeatedly, first finding a pink-billed youngster at the Tour Carbonniere, then spotting another preening at the Salin de Giraud. Their lack of a black "ear muff" and their longer, "nosier" head shape help to distinguish them from the slightly smaller (and far more numerous) Black-headed Gulls.

BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)

Abundant all across the Camargue, where their grating cries were a regular part of the tour soundtrack. In their winter plumage, their black hoods are replaced with a small dark "ear muff".

MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)

Very common around Aigues-Mortes, where we saw them in nice comparison with the previous species. We also spotted some at the Salin de Giraud, where they are decidedly less common. The all white wingtips of the adults makes them very easy to identify; they're also subtly broader winged.

YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (Larus michahellis)

Another very common resident in the Camargue, with big numbers around every waterway and dozens flapping over in orderly lines every morning and evening. This species was split from the Herring Gull complex, but genetic studies show it is actually more closely related to the Lesser Black-backed Gull.

LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)

A dozen or so, sprinkled across various mudflats in the pans at Salin de Giraud. They weren't much bigger than nearby Dunlin! This species strongly resembles the Least Tern of the Americas.

GULL-BILLED TERN (Gelochelidon nilotica)

Our first were a trio resting in a flooded field on the way to Salin de Giraud. We had others in flight over the Salicornia scrub at Mejanes, uttering their raspy flight calls. Unlike many terns, this one primarily hunts inland, eating mostly insects but also the occasional small mammal or frog.

CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)

Regular in the Camargue, with especially nice looks at nearly a dozen jostling on a muddy islet at Scamandre, and others hunting over a swan-filled channel at Salin de Giraud. This is the world's largest tern.

WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)

Great views of birds in all plumages -- including a handful of youngsters, some non-breeding adults, and adults still sporting fine breeding colors -- over the marshes at Mas d'Agon. This is one of the so-called "marsh terns", found primarily in areas of freshwater marsh, where it catches insects on the wing or plucks them from the water surface.

BLACK TERN (EURASIAN) (Chlidonias niger niger)

Another marsh tern, with a couple of youngsters spotted among the larger Whiskered Terns at Mas d'Agon.

COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)

Several score flapped past while we watched for Mediterranean Gulls near Aigues-Mortes, and we saw others over (and in) the pans at Salin de Giraud -- including some in nice comparison with the next species.

SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis)

Best seen at Salin de Giraud, where a hundred or more flapped past or rested in a big, shifting mass on muddy islets in some of the pans.

Ciconiidae (Storks)

BLACK STORK (Ciconia nigra)

One soared back and forth over the fields at Mejanes, showing its white belly nicely as it circled, and some of the group spotted another pair gliding over the highway as we headed towards the mountains on our transfer day. This is a migrant through southern France.

WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)

One flapped along over the wetland near the Tour Carbonniere and another did the same along the back edge of the marsh at Mas d'Agon before dropping down out of view. This species breeds in the Camargue, but also migrates through in substantial numbers -- sometimes in flocks of hundreds!

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)

GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)

Regular in the Camargue, often seen on posts and pilings with its wings outstretched, drying out after a bout of hunting.

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)

A youngster flapped past over the boardwalk trail at Scamandre.

LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)

Abundant throughout the Camargue, with a particularly impressive number -- surely close to 100 -- around the Tour Carbonniere our first afternoon. Like the closely related Snowy Egret, this species wears "golden slippers"; however, its facial skin is a slaty blue-gray rather than yellow.

SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)

Two lapped across the marsh at Mas d'Agon and landed in a leafless tree with a quartet of Western Cattle Egrets for comparison. Though it shows a lot of white in flight (both wings and tail are completely white), this summer visitor is primarily a streaky brown on the ground (or in a tree).

WESTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus ibis)

Reasonably common throughout, typically hovering around the feet of livestock in roadside pastures. The range of this short distance migrant is expanding rapidly.

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)

Another common species in the Camargue, with especially big numbers around the Tour Carbonniere and Mas d'Agon. This is another species whose range has expanded significantly over the past few decades.

GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)

Daily in the Camargue, often hunched in the shallows. This species is resident in southern France, but numbers are augmented by birds from further north during migration and the winter.

PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)

Small numbers on several days in the Camargue, with especially good looks at one flapping past at Mejanes and a stripe-faced adult and a gingery youngster in the marsh at Mas d'Agon.

Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)

GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)

Seen on most days in the Camargue, sometimes in sizable flocks -- like the scores we found in a flooded field on the way to Salin de Giraud and the hundred or so we spotted north of the Etang des Vaccares.

EURASIAN SPOONBILL (Platalea leucorodia)

Two flew over as we birded at Tour Carbonniere, showing their distinctive "spoons" well against the cloudy sky. We saw nearly a dozen others from the blind at Scamandre, actively feeding in the nearby pond.

Pandionidae (Osprey)

OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)

Scattered individuals in flight over the Salin de Giraud, the Etang des Vaccares, and -- more unexpectedly -- over the Vallee d'Ossoue, high in the mountains.

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)

BEARDED VULTURE (Gypaetus barbatus)

Daily in the mountains, including some splendid views of a perched pair alternately preening and munching on some out-of-view tidbit on a cliff ledge in the Vallee d'Ossoue. We saw others over La Mongie and the Pic du Pibeste (quite a low elevation for this highland species), plus two right over the parking lot of our Gedre hotel.

EUROPEAN HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis apivorus)

A little group, in a variety of color morphs, glided over us at Mejanes -- with a Common Buzzard nearby to show up the subtle differences in their shape. Nice spotting, Jane!

EURASIAN GRIFFON (Gyps fulvus)

Quite common in the highlands, where small groups regularly soared over the ridges. Our best perched views probably came at the Pic du Pibeste, where a dozen or so flew in to perch on the cliff face as dusk approached.

SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)

Singles seen on most days in the lowlands, with our best views coming near our Arles hotel, where we found one perched atop an electricity pylon on a couple of mornings.

BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus)

One circled over the parking lot at the Aire des Comminges, where we birded after refueling on our way to the mountains. We spotted another over Le Lienz on our first visit there. Both of the birds we saw were "light morph", with a plumage pattern similar to that of the Swainson's Hawk.

WESTERN MARSH HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)

Small numbers on scattered days, including a few rocking low over the pans at Salin de Giraud and two battling the gale force headwinds in the Port de Boucharo. Most were brown females or youngsters, but we did see one adult male high overhead, heading for the pass at the Col des Tentes on our last morning.

MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)

A fairly distant youngster hunted over the Crau steppe on our early morning visit there, pursued by a couple of anxious kestrels. Its white rump patch and cinnamon underparts quickly distinguished it from the larger Western Marsh Harrier.

EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)

A few scattered individuals seen in flight in both the lowlands and highlands. Their typical Accipiter flight style -- flap, flap, flap, glide -- made them easy to identify.

RED KITE (Milvus milvus)

Best seen at our last day's lunch spot, where a pair soared low over nearby buildings. Most of the group saw another over our Gedre hotel one morning, in the company of a host of Eurasian Griffons and a couple of Bearded Vultures.

COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)

Seen nearly every day of the tour, often perched on a post or in a tree along a road we were traveling. The plumage of this species can be remarkably variable, from very pale to very dark.

Strigidae (Owls)

EURASIAN EAGLE-OWL (Bubo bubo)

Talk about the skin of our teeth! One started calling mere minutes after we arrived (dusk having descended earlier than expected due to sudden cloudiness). With luck, we managed to spot it and get looks in the scope before it flapped over the ridge into the gloom. The French call this one the "Grand Duke" -- an apt name for Europe's largest owl.

LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)

A low-flying military jet apparently disturbed one of these small owls from its snooze in a sheep shed on the Crau steppe. It suddenly appeared on a stone wall surrounding the building, where it sat for some minutes (allowing scope views) before disappearing back through the open doorway. We spotted another on a more distant sheep shed rooftop on our second visit to the Peau de Meau.

Upupidae (Hoopoes)

EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)

At least one flicked around the same sheep shed as the previous species -- sometimes sitting on the same wall (until the Eurasian Magpies chased it away), sometimes preening in the grass with only its orange crown showing, and sometimes flying back and forth in a flurry of black and white wings.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)

Small numbers in various places around the Camargue. Our first zipped back and forth over the ponds near the Tour Carbonniere, and we saw others along the creek near our lunch spot at the Mas d'Agon. But our best views probably came at Scamandre, where we found several close pairs of these little stunners.

Meropidae (Bee-eaters)

EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)

Common in the lowlands, with dozens swirling in the skies overhead as they headed south, and others lined like beads on a string along a telephone wire near the Peau de Meau. This one certainly belies the belief that all European birds are "little brown jobs"!

Coraciidae (Rollers)

EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)

Another snazzy European breeder, seen daily in the lowlands. We had especially nice looks at a half dozen hunting from scattered bush tops in the slice of Crau steppe we visited on our way to the Peau de Meau.

Picidae (Woodpeckers)

EURASIAN WRYNECK (Jynx torquilla)

One suddenly appeared in a tree with some European Bee-eaters near the Tour Carbonniere. Unfortunately, there was more than one such tree, and some folks never did find the right one before the wryneck flew off across the marshes. This aberrant woodpecker spends much of its time on the ground, eating ants.

MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocoptes medius)

One in a big tree at the edge of the Pic du Pibeste parking lot was a surprise; we were looking for the calling Iberian Green Woodpecker when Bob spotted it. As its name suggests, this one is smaller than the Great Spotted, but larger than the Lesser Spotted. Its finely streaked breast and belly quickly separates it from both of those.

GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos major)

One clinging to the bare branches of a bush along the road up to the Col des Tentes was seen only by a few. Unfortunately, the multitude of Mistle Thrushes in the same area made it hard to "watch for movement" and it soon disappeared over the ridge.

LESSER SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dryobates minor)

A very territorial bird in the poplars along the edge of the Scamandre parking lot proved extraordinarily obliging, perching for long minutes in the open as it called.

IBERIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus sharpei)

Our first was a quite distant bird foraging among a little group of Mistle Thrushes on a grassy hillside in Le Lienz forest. We found another, closer bird in a tree along the edge of the Pic du Pibeste parking lot -- though it was awfully good at hiding behind the branch it was clinging to.

Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)

LESSER KESTREL (Falco naumanni)

Splendid views of at least a dozen as they circled over us at the edge of the Crau steppe, with scope views of few blue-headed males perched on rock piles near the Peau de Meau. This colonial breeder visits southern Europe for the summer, but retreats to Africa once the breeding season is over.

EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)

Seen every day but one -- and we probably just weren't paying enough attention that day! The ones hunting in the Vallee d'Ossoue gave us especially nice views, and we saw some from above at the summit of the Col du Tourmalet.

EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)

One soared past our lunch spot at the bridge near Mas d'Agon, hunting dragonflies, and another rocketed through the parking lot at the Pic du Pibeste on our second visit there.

Laniidae (Shrikes)

RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)

Unfortunately, this was little more than a distant, wavering, pink-bellied blob (with no white wing patch) sitting atop a bush in the patch of Crau steppe we visited on our way to the Peau de Meau. Considering how early in the morning it was, there was already an amazing amount of heat haze!

IBERIAN GRAY SHRIKE (Lanius meridionalis)

We had much better views of this relatively new species, which was split from the Great Gray Shrike. It's found primarily in the dry and desert areas of Spain and Portugal but also edges into parts of southern France.

Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)

EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)

We spotted our first in the Aire de Comminges on our transfer day, but most were seen in the mountains -- including some showy birds bouncing around on the back lawn of our Gedre hotel.

EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)

Regular in the lowlands, often patrolling the roadsides. This handsome species was formerly considered to be conspecific with North America's Black-billed Magpie.

RED-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)

Seen very well on several days in the mountains, including some in great comparison with the next species near the Gavarnie-Gedre ski station. The long, curved beak of this species (red in adults, yellow in youngsters) helps to quickly separate it from the Yellow-billed Chough.

YELLOW-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax graculus)

Also common in the highlands, often in sizable groups. A little gang patrolling the roadside along the track up to the Col des Tentes gave us particularly nice looks at their stubby, yellow beaks.

EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)

Common in the lowlands, including noisy little gangs flying over us most mornings on our pre-breakfast outings and others rummaging in flooded fields on our drive out to the Peau de Meau. Their pale eyes and gray hoods quickly separate these small crows from their larger cousins.

ROOK (Corvus frugilegus)

Quite a few foraged on the stony Crau steppe on our early morning visit there. The long, chisel-shaped beak of this crow shows a whitish base, which helps to separate it from the Carrion Crow.

CARRION CROW (Corvus corone)

Regular throughout, missing only at the very highest elevations.

COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)

A few pairs in the mountains, including two tumbling over the Gavarnie-Gedre ski station, another pair calling as they flew along the ridge in the Vallee d'Ossoue and more on the grassy hillsides of the Col du Tourmalet.

Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)

COAL TIT (Periparus ater)

Daily in the highlands, with some good views of the distinctive white "thumbprint" on their napes in the Vallee d'Ossoue, where a few mingled with some Eurasian Stonechats in low vegetation near our lunch spot.

CRESTED TIT (Lophophanes cristatus)

Our first was a furtive bird that slipped through nearby pine trees at La Caume, showing well for some and not at all for others. Fortunately, we connected with a more cooperative bird in a mixed tit flock at the Pont d'Espagne, just as the fog rolled in.

MARSH TIT (Poecile palustris)

Two with a mixed flock along the edge of the parking lot at the Pic du Midi. This is the European species that looks most like a North American chickadee -- though with a very tiny bib. It's extraordinarily poorly named, as it's definitely not a marsh species over most of its territory.

EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)

Small, noisy groups in both the lowlands and highlands, with our best looks probably coming at the busy gang swirling through the trees along the main track at the Pont d'Espagne -- or another group doing the same at the Pic du Pibeste.

GREAT TIT (Parus major)

The most common and easily seen of the tour's tits, seen in both the lowlands and the highlands, including some right over our picnic tables at the Etang des Aulnes and others in the garden of our Gedre hotel.

Alaudidae (Larks)

GREATER SHORT-TOED LARK (Calandrella brachydactyla)

One sat up all too briefly on a bush top in the Crau steppe before dropping back down out of view.

CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)

A couple scuttled around in the road along the edge of the Etang des Vaccares late on the afternoon we visited the Salin de Giraud. The tall crest, peachy underwing and rosy tail edges of this species help to distinguish it from the Eurasian Skylark.

Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)

ZITTING CISTICOLA (Cisticola juncidis)

We saw multiple bounding dots over farm fields and salt pans, but finally connected with some reasonable views around Mejanes, where we found several perched up on Salicornia bushes.

Acrocephalidae (Reed Warblers and Allies)

MELODIOUS WARBLER (Hippolais polyglotta)

One migrant with a busy flock of European Stonechats in the Vallee d'Ossoue. It sat for several minutes right at the top of a little juniper bush, giving us the chance to study it in the scopes.

COMMON REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)

One flicked through damp scrub at the edge of the Scamandre parking lot, keeping close company with an equally showy Cetti's Warbler. Result!

Hirundinidae (Swallows)

BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)

Small numbers with other swallows in the lowlands and another few over the hotel parking lot in Gedre.

EURASIAN CRAG-MARTIN (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)

Daily in the highlands, with particularly good views of a little group huddling on the windowsill of the monolithic power station at Pragneres and of others in flight over our Vallee d'Ossoue picnic spot.

BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)

The most common and widespread of the tour's swallows, including a few dozen sprinkled on wires (and racing back and forth overhead) at Le Sambuc.

WESTERN HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)

At least a dozen zoomed back and forth over Le Sambuc, showing their distinctive white rumps as they did so.

Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)

WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus)

One in the garden at our Gedre hotel was most uncooperative, disappearing across the street almost as soon as it was spotted.

COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)

Two foraged busily in trackside bushes on the foggy mountainside at the Pont d'Espagne -- great spotting, Jeff! Their habit of regularly dipping their tails helps to separate this species from the previous one.

Scotocercidae (Bush Warblers and Allies)

CETTI'S WARBLER (Cettia cetti)

After hearing the loud, explosive songs of this skulking species all around the Camargue, we were finally rewarded with stupendous views of one showy bird in the parking lot at Scamandre.

Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)

LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)

A lucky few laid eyes on one or two in the pine forest at La Caume, but most had to wait until we found a busy little group in trees along the edge of the parking lot at the Pic du Pibeste. Others boiled through the roadside trees on the drive up to the Col des Tentes our final morning.

Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers and Allies)

EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)

Scattered individuals -- mostly females or youngsters. One just below the bridge at Le Lienz showed well as it flitted through a bramble patch.

SARDINIAN WARBLER (Curruca melanocephala)

We never really got storming views of this handsome species; they seemed to drop out of view as soon as they were spotted. Some laid eyes on a male that perched briefly along the track near our Arles hotel, or another along the scrubby edge of the Crau steppe. But the best look most got was probably of the female near the bull field at Mejanes.

SPECTACLED WARBLER (Curruca conspicillata)

Nice looks at several perched up in Salicornia bushes around the Salin de Giraud -- though the drabber females / youngsters always seem to outnumber the males we really hope to see!

Regulidae (Kinglets)

GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)

At least four flitted through the tall conifers at our first stop in the forest of Le Lienz, showing nicely those distinctive yellow crown stripes. This and the next species are two of Europe's smallest birds.

COMMON FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)

A couple in trees near our Carcassonne picnic spot showed well, and others in the parking lot at the Pic du Pibeste -- including a youngster without a crown stripe -- proved equally cooperative.

Sittidae (Nuthatches)

EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea)

Our first hopped along the sidewalk (!!) at the Aire des Comminges, eventually disappearing behind a garbage pail. We found others in more traditional habitat (i.e. crawling on tree trunks and branches) in the forests of Le Lienz and around Pragneres. But our best views came at the Pic du Pibeste, where we found a pair returning again and again to steal from a bowlful of kitty kibble propped in a tree; take that, feral cats!

Certhiidae (Treecreepers)

EURASIAN TREECREEPER (Certhia familiaris)

One in the forest at Le Lienz on our first visit. Though very similar in appearance to the next species, this one tends to show cleaner, white underparts and occurs at higher elevations and latitudes (though with some overlap).

SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)

And this one occurs at lower elevations. We spotted our first in the toasty pine forest at La Caume (though it proved somewhat elusive initially) and found others at the Aire des Comminges and in the parking lot of the Pic du Pibeste.

Troglodytidae (Wrens)

EURASIAN WREN (Troglodytes troglodytes)

One of these short-tailed little sprites -- once considered conspecific with North America's Winter Wren -- danced along mossy branches and the leaf-strewn forest floor at Le Lienz, singing its heart out, often within mere yards of where we stood.

Cinclidae (Dippers)

WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus)

Some great views around Pragneres on one damp morning, particularly of the one that flung itself repeatedly into the little stream emptying into the river below the dam. We had others rummaging along the river in the Vallee d'Ossoue and another briefly at the bridge in Le Lienz. I'm not sure where they all went once the whole place flooded!

Sturnidae (Starlings)

EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)

Very common in the lowlands, including murmurations of many thousand swirling over the farm fields around our Arles hotel each morning.

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)

MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus)

We first found a small group foraging on the ground far upslope at Le Lienz. Our last morning's outing brought us much closer views of another migrant group flicking through some low bushes downslope from the road up to the Col des Tentes.

SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos)

Once flushed off the roadside as we drove up the hill at Le Lienz, seen only by a few in the front of my van. This species is smaller and browner than the previous, with arrowhead-shaped, rather than round, spots underneath.

EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)

Daily in the highlands, including a couple near the Pic du Pibeste parking lot on our second visit there and others at Le Lienz.

Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)

SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)

One sat at the very top of a conveniently leafless tree along the back road at Pragneres. Despite its name, this small flycatcher is really more streaked than spotted.

EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)

Small numbers in the mountains, including a few speckly youngsters trailing around with their parents.

COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos)

We heard one chortling to itself on a couple of mornings near the Hotel des Granges, and some of the gang got brief glimpses of its rufous roundness on our first pre-breakfast walk.

EUROPEAN PIED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula hypoleuca)

Seen on most days of the tour, though in fewer numbers than usual. At this time of year, even the males are brown and white rather than black and white. The big white patches in wing and tail help to quickly identify them though.

COMMON REDSTART (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)

Regular in the highlands, including several at once at the rockfall in the Vallee d'Ossoue. Their pale belly helps to separate them from the next species.

BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)

Abundant in the mountains, with a scattered few in the lowlands as well. The quivering-tailed masses around the rockfall in the Vallee d'Ossoue allowed some really nice studies as they flicked from stone to stone.

BLUE ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola solitarius)

An adult sat on a ledge high on the cliffs of Les Baux, seen as we waited for the eagle-owl to make an appearance. We spotted a stripey youngster in the Vallee d'Ossoue -- the first time a youngster has been seen on the tour, and the first time we've seen one away from Les Baux!

EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola rubicola)

A little group flitted back and forth across low junipers in the Vallee d'Ossoue, occasionally dropping down briefly into the grass before returning to their higher perch for another look around.

NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)

Small numbers on the Crau steppe, but our best views came in the mountains, where dozens flicked from rocky perch to rocky perch or bounced among the cow patties. Its striking black and white tail, reputedly the source of its odd name, via the ancient Saxon words for "white arse", was certainly eye-catching!

Prunellidae (Accentors)

ALPINE ACCENTOR (Prunella collaris)

A wonderfully confiding bird near the start of the track at the Port de Boucharo -- which was a good thing, considering how hard the wind was blowing! We had our fill of this handsome mountain dweller, then beat a hasty retreat to the warmer, calmer Vallee d'Ossoue.

DUNNOCK (Prunella modularis)

One on a low evergreen bush in the Vallee d'Ossoue got away before most of the group saw it, but we had a more satisfying encounter with another sitting atop a post on the road up to the Col des Tentes -- part of that big mixed flock we found on our last morning.

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)

Most common in the lowlands, particularly around our Gedre hotel (where there appeared to be a communal roost in one of the big evergreens) and in the many hedgerows between agricultural fields on the way to the Salin de Giraud and Mejanes.

EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)

A male in the little park with the bathrooms in the town of Salin de Giraud, seen by some as we waited for the group to reassemble.

Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)

GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)

Scattered birds in the highlands, typically waggling their way along stream edges or investigating boulders in the flow itself. This is the longest tailed of Europe's wagtails.

WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla flava)

The most widespread of the tour's wagtails, seen in both the lowlands and the mountains -- including some along the fringes of several of the pans at the Salin de Giraud and a little gang of nearly a dozen headed for the pass at the Port de Boucharo.

WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba)

Small numbers in the highlands, including a few wandering the streets in the town of Gedre.

TREE PIPIT (Anthus trivialis)

Fine views of a couple on our last morning in the mountains, part of the big mixed flock we encountered on our way up to the Port de Boucharo.

WATER PIPIT (Anthus spinoletta)

Abundant in the highlands, where little parties of them strode along the roadsides.

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)

COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)

Regular in the highlands, with a scattered few in the forest at La Caume (in Les Alpilles) as well. a couple in the conifers at misty Pont d'Espagne were particularly approachable.

EURASIAN BULLFINCH (Pyrrhula pyrrhula)

It took some patience, but with a bit of whistling, we eventually called a youngster into view in the forest of Le Lienz. After chirping from somewhere out of view for a while, it flicked up onto a nearby treetop and sat peering around.

EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)

A little family group -- a couple of adults and some still-streaky youngsters -- rummaged on the grassy hillside behind our Gedre hotel on the penultimate morning of the tour. This species has declined across Europe over the past few decades, with the infectious disease trichomonosis (caused by protozoan parasites) causing much of the drop.

EURASIAN LINNET (Linaria cannabina)

A few flitting along the roadside on our drive up to the Port de Boucharo for our first (very windy) visit proved less than cooperative, disappearing before most got a look.

EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)

Amazingly, it took until the very last day to see this typically common European species! We got some fine views of a little group -- including some brown-faced youngsters -- flicking through birch trees along the road up to the Col des Tentes.

EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)

What we thought was a handful flicked through low junipers on a hillside in the Vallee d'Ossoue, occasionally (including one very yellow adult male) popping up into view. When they bounded off down the valley minutes later, it turned out there were more than a dozen of them!

Emberizidae (Old World Buntings)

CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)

Scores dotted the roadside wires as we drove south towards the Salin de Giraud, but by the time we'd found a safe place to pull off, only a few were still visible. Fortunately, we were able get scopes on a reasonably close one for some extended looks.

YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella)

Two youngsters perched briefly on some bramble stalks near where we stopped on the road up to the Col des Tentes on our final morning. Unfortunately, only the folks in my van saw them before they flew off, never to be seen again.

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MAMMALS

OLD WORLD RABBIT (Oryctolagus cuniculus)

Definitely common along the stretch of road between a farm and the little patch of Crau steppe we stopped at on our way to the Peau de Meau! There must have been at least a dozen bouncing back and forth across the road there.

EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus)

A single individual rested on the stony plain of the Peau de Meau, almost invisible except for its black-tipped ears.

ALPINE MARMOT (Marmota marmota)

Dozens. Scores? They were certainly plentiful in the Pyrenees, where they sprawled on rocks and waddled along roadsides throughout. Despite their abundance, this species isn't native to the Pyrenees; they were introduced from the Alps in the mid-1900s.

EUROPEAN RED SQUIRREL (Sciurus vulgaris)

One clambered up a pine trunk near our Carcassonne overview picnic spot, and we spotted another, much darker, individual in the misty pines high in the Pont d'Espagne.

NUTRIA (Myocastor coypus)

Regular in the Camargue, where it has become an invasive pest. Initially introduced to the country for the fur trade, Nutria have become established through accidental and deliberate releases.

RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)

A few folks saw one (or two) on a hillside along the road up to the Port de Boucharo (Col des Tents). Sadly, the only one most of us saw was a dead one on the side of the road!

WILD BOAR (Sus scrofa)

A tight little group of four striped piglets scuttled along the roadside as we drove south to the Salin de Giraud. I wonder what had happened to their mother; they were far too young to be out on their own!

PYRENEAN CHAMOIS (ISARD) (Rupicapra pyrenaica)

Some great spotting by Willy netted us scope views of one bounding down the hillside across the valley from the forest at Le Lienz. This species was driven almost to extinction by hunting -in the mid 1900s - primarily for the production of "shammy" (chamois) cloth. Fortunately, it has recovered since then.

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HERPS

COMMON FROG (Rana temporaria)

This was the frog some of you saw where we turned around on our walk in the forest of Le Lienz.

COMMON WALL LIZARD (Podarcis muralis)

A tiny one climbed the bridge at Mas d'Agon, briefly resting in the sun, while others scuttled along the edge of the track at Scamandre. The combination of brown background color and yellow side stripes helps to ID this one.

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ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Here are the limericks Joan Clarke wrote in response to my challenge. Thanks for sharing, Joan!

*Hail to the Zitting Cisticolas

Tiny birds that are quite inconspicolus

But when they zit through the sky

You begin to know why

Their name isn't all that ridicolus

*Though Starlings have poor reputations

Their flocks do exquisite gyrations

Million birds in the air

Of each other aware

Creating sublime murmurations

Totals for the tour: 155 bird taxa and 8 mammal taxa