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Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush was one of the target birds we sought in the Pyrenees. We caught a glimpse of one on the Port de Boucharo trail, but had great looks at several others in the Vallee D'Ossoue, including this beauty that posed for guide Jay VanderGaast.
Six years ago, when I co-led my first France trip with Megan, I thought it was just going to be a one-off situation. But this was my 7th France tour in as many years, and I've got to say, it hasn't gotten any less enjoyable to lead this one. In fact, this year may have been one of the most enjoyable ones, thanks in part to a stellar, small group that all got along well and made for a truly pleasurable 10 days of travel. Of course, all the great French cuisine, delectable croissants, deliciously drinkable wines, etc didn't hurt either. Oh, and there were the birds, too, of course! They weren't too bad either.
While running this tour in reverse, starting in the mountains and finishing in the Camargue, wasn't my preference, in retrospect it worked out pretty well. We saw most of the species we expected, and the one cold, rainy day hit us in the Camargue region, where it was less of an issue than the same weather would have been in the mountains. And it certainly didn't hurt to overlap with Megan and Marcelo in the mountains, leading the first FG group. In fact, it helped us out with a couple of species, especially Egyptian Vulture; I finally know where that partially hidden roost is located!
The fine weather in the Pyrenees meant that we didn't encounter any big fallouts of migrants pushed down by the weather, but it certainly made for some wonderful birding conditions, and there were still a few migrants to be found. Among these, a beautiful juvenile Montagu's Harrier in the Vallee D'Ossoue was notable, as was my first ever Ortolan Bunting, found on a spontaneous exploration of a ravine we usually never enter. But residents and local breeders made up the bulk of the most memorable sightings here: Bearded Vultures riding the thermals with large numbers of hulking Eurasian Griffons; Short-toed Snake-Eagles hanging over the boulder-strewn hillsides of the Vallee D'Ossoue, one plunging to the ground and coming up with a snake in its beak; a pair of Red-backed Shrikes pouncing into the grass again and again to provide grasshoppers for their impatient fledglings; an Alpine Accentor landing on the track less than 10 feet from our position, allowing us to study every detail of its lovely plumage. All fun, memorable encounters, though by no means the only ones during our time here.
Continuing into the Camargue region, more rewards awaited us. While our first day there was very nearly a washout (though we did score point-blank looks at a pair of Red-legged Partridge!), we made up for it over the next few days, scoring most of the prime targets this region holds for us. A rare cool, calm morning free of heat shimmer allowed us exceptional studies of Lesser Kestrel, Iberian Gray Shrike, and Eurasian Thick-knee on the stony Crau steppe. Our delightful picnic dinner in the shadow of Les Baux-de-Provence was capped off beautifully by the appearance of a fierce-looking Eurasian Eagle Owl, hooting loudly from his perch on a rocky ledge overlooking the valley below. And the main birding area of the Camargue came through with plenty of excellent waterbirds. Among these, a totally unexpected trio of Great White Pelicans were the biggest surprise of the trip, though a nearby flock of about 75 Eurasian Spoonbills were a close second. A Red-necked Phalarope spinning circles in one of the salt pans was one of the shorebird highlights, as were a group of Ruffs that superbly illustrated the size difference between males and females. In the tern and gull department, a vagrant Elegant Tern (my 2nd on this tour!) was the most unexpected, but a lone Slender-billed Gull was arguably the better find, given that I'd inadvertently photographed one on our first visit, only discovered upon our return to the hotel! Both Black and White Storks came through for us at nearly the last possible moment at Mas D'Agon. And a trio of skulking warblers all showed beautifully that same day, with Sardinian and Spectacled cavorting in the open at Mejanes, and the usually reticent Cetti's Warbler posing for scope views at Mas D'Agon. Crazy!
Thanks to all of you for helping to make this such a fun trip. Heck, thanks for making it run at all, as it looked pretty dicey there for a while. I'm sure glad it did go, as I had a truly great time showing you all around this little corner of France. Let's do it again sometime!
--Jay
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
It just wouldn't be right to visit the Camargue and not see Flamingos! Participant Linda Mack got this image of a few of the many Greater Flamingos we saw.
Eurasian Griffons were a common sight in the Pyrenees. This impressive bird was David Blue’s favourite of the trip, and he caught a great shot of this one in flight.
The Cirque de Gavarnie is one of the highlight locations of this tour. We had a wonderful day there, and found a number of special birds. Photo by participant Linda Mack.
Initially seen through a screen of shrubbery, these Great White Pelicans were nearly passed off as just more swans, but when they came out into full view, it was pretty clear that they weren’t! This species is a rarity in France, and this was our first record of them on the tour. Photo by guide Jay VanderGaast.
Participant David Blue got this lovely image of an elegant Pied Avocet at the Salin de Giraud.
This little family group of Red-backed Shrikes entertained us in the Vallee D'Ossoue. Photo by participant Linda Mack.
Though it seemed a bit too chilly for snakes to be out and about, it evidently was not, as this Short-toed Snake-Eagle proved when it dropped to the hillside and came up with one dangling from its beak. Kudos to David Blue for being quick enough to catch this picture of the bird with its snack!
We had to work to find a Citril Finch, but were rewarded with great views of this male that landed near us. Photo by guide Jay VanderGaast.
Alpine Accentors were hard to come by this trip, and we were close to giving up when this bold bird flew upslope and landed on the trail just a few yards from where we were standing! It’s good to be lucky! Photo by participant David Blue.
There weren’t many Common Shelducks present this year, but Linda Mack snapped one of the few as it strolled across one of the impoundments at the Salin de Giraud.
Zitting Cisticolas didn't sit still for long, but participant David Blue managed to get a nice shot of this one.
We happened upon a field of thistles after our hike to the Cirque du Gavarnie, and got wonderful looks at some European Goldfinchs feeding. Photo by guide Jay VanderGaast.
Participant Linda Blue got this shot of several of us climbing up to get a better view of Chateau des Baux, which can be seen in the distance.
Red-legged Partridges were very cooperative for our group when we visited the Camargue. A cloudy, wet day on the Crau had us cruising the local roads, when we found this pair feeding. Photo by participant David Blue.
This handsome male Common Chaffinch gave us great close views as it fed almost at our feet in the Cirque de Gavarnie. Photo by participant Linda Mack.
We found about 30 Black-winged Stilts in the salt pans at Salin de Giraud, including this pensive-looking youngster. Photo by participant David Blue.
Participant David Blue got this photo of the rest of the group in the Pyrenees as we hiked the Port de Boucharo track.
We saw so many wonderful places on this tour, including the ruins of Les Baux. We had a great picnic dinner near here, and had fabulous views (and sounds!) of Eurasian Eagle-Owl, one of the highlights of a great tour! Photo by participant David Blue.
MAMMALS
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Totals for the tour: 156 bird taxa and 4 mammal taxa