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The Swallow-tailed Gull is surely one of the world's most handsome seabirds. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
For those interested in natural history, the Galapagos Islands are a wonderland. Every island is a revelation. The animals -- though wild and unfettered -- are so trusting as to seem tame. Our week's cruise brought us within arm's length of Galapagos Tortoises the size of coffee tables and whip-fast lava lizards. Albatrosses snoozed in the middle of paths. Mockingbirds investigated bare toes. Boobies stomped their way through our group. "Darwin's Finches" circled as if planning to land atop heads or arms or camera lenses. And everywhere, we could settle in for extended studies of plants or birds or insects or herps or fish, secure in the knowledge that they just wouldn't care that we were there.
As you might expect in such a naturalist's paradise, there were many, many highlights. Waved Albatrosses called and bowed and clattered their beaks together, or brooded small chicks (which look surprisingly poodle-like, thanks to their curly feathers). Blue-footed Boobies whistled and grunted and solemnly displayed their extraordinary feet to each other. Well-camouflaged Short-eared Owls lurked among a whirling mass of Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrels, waiting for an opportunity -- and a one-eyed hunter gobbled its hapless prey nearly at our feet. A Flightless Cormorant panted on its seaweed nest. A sunning pair of Galapagos Penguins suddenly turned frisky, working hard at making baby penguins. A tiny Galapagos Rail sprinted across gaps in the ferns and mosses in the soggy highlands of Santa Cruz, then tiptoed out into the path. Red-billed Tropicbirds circled overhead again and again and again, trying to get just the right flight line to land at their nests. Huge-eyed Swallow-tailed Gulls drifted past on flashy wings. American Flamingoes floated like neon pink swans on a brackish pool -- or snoozed one-legged along its shores. Male Great and Magnificent frigatebirds inflated their huge red gular "balloons," doing their best to attract passing females.
The archipelago's "finches" (now known to be tanagers) and mockingbirds are part of its fame, as ruminating on their differences is what led Darwin to his famous theory of natural selection. And we got to see plenty of those differences ourselves: all three ground-finches -- including a very close Large Ground-Finch -- on North Seymour our very first afternoon, a Woodpecker Finch prying bark off twigs and a Vegetarian Finch stuffing itself on fruits on San Cristobal, swarms of Gray Warbler-Finches bouncing across the rocks on Espanola, a wing-shimmering male Common Cactus-Finch singing from a huge Opuntia cactus at the Charles Darwin Research Station, Small and Medium Tree-Finches sharing branches on Floreana. And the mockingbirds proved just as cooperative: an inquisitive San Cristobal Mockingbird atop a bush outside the cemetery, a gaggle of begging young Espanola Mockingbirds that followed us across the sands at Gardner Bay, at least 5 Floreana Mockingbirds (a significant portion of the world population) checking for tidbits on the rocky coast of Champion, and many confiding Galapagos Mockingbirds on virtually every other island we visited.
But it wasn't just the birds that dazzled. Glittering fishes swarmed around us in the seas. Bottlenose Dolphins leapt across our bow. We swam among herds of Pacific Green Turtles, and played tag with boisterous young Galapagos Sea Lions. We walked on ancient lava flows, marveled over delicate flowers and ferns thriving in cracks of blasted rock, chased more than one flitting butterfly or dragonfly (with cameras, of course) and admired many a setting sun or evening sky full of stars. And, of course, there were all those fabulous meals -- and table decorations -- that Ivan produced out of that tiny galley kitchen!
Thanks to Captain Antonio and his able crew -- Jimmy, Joffrey, Luis and Roberto -- and, of course, to our outstanding local guide Peter, we had a trouble-free week in paradise. And thanks to our fine group of traveling companions, we had a wonderful time exploring it! I hope to see you all again sometime soon. Meanwhile, happy memories! -- Megan
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
The Galapagos Penguin ranges farther north than any other penguin species -- nearly into the Northern Hemisphere. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
WHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL (GALAPAGOS) (Anas bahamensis galapagensis) Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)
AMERICAN FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus ruber) [N]
Spheniscidae (Penguins)
GALAPAGOS PENGUIN (Spheniscus mendiculus) [E]
Diomedeidae (Albatrosses)
The greeting between a pair of Waved Albatrosses is a ceremony to behold -- and can last for more than 45 minutes! (Video by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
WAVED ALBATROSS (Phoebastria irrorata) [N] Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
GALAPAGOS PETREL (Pterodroma phaeopygia)
GALAPAGOS SHEARWATER (Puffinus subalaris)
Hydrobatidae (Storm-Petrels)
A trio of Great Frigatebirds awaits the next passing female. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
ELLIOT'S STORM-PETREL (Oceanites gracilis galapagoensis) BAND-RUMPED STORM-PETREL (Oceanodroma castro)
WEDGE-RUMPED STORM-PETREL (Oceanodroma tethys tethys) [N]
Phaethontidae (Tropicbirds)
RED-BILLED TROPICBIRD (Phaethon aethereus mesonauta) [N]
Fregatidae (Frigatebirds)
A Blue-footed Booby and her chick on North Seymour (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens) [N] GREAT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata minor ridgwayi) [N]
Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets)
NAZCA BOOBY (Sula granti) [N]
BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY (Sula nebouxii excisa) [N]
A Yellow Warbler of the distinctive Galapagos population captured in flight by participant Rick Woodruff
RED-FOOTED BOOBY (EASTERN PACIFIC) (Sula sula websteri) [N] Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
FLIGHTLESS CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax harrisi) [EN]
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis urinator)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BLUE HERON (BLUE FORM) (Ardea herodias cognata)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
A Galapagos Hawk eyes us from its beachfront perch. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
STRIATED HERON (GALAPAGOS) (Butorides striata sundevalli) [E] YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (GALAPAGOS) (Nyctanassa violacea pauper)
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
GALAPAGOS HAWK (Buteo galapagoensis) [EN]
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
GALAPAGOS RAIL (Laterallus spilonotus) [E]
PAINT-BILLED CRAKE (Neocrex erythrops)
COMMON GALLINULE (Gallinula galeata)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
Cactus Finch (Photo by participant Rick Woodruff)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (Himantopus mexicanus) Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
AMERICAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus palliatus galapagensis)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
WANDERING TATTLER (Tringa incana)
WHIMBREL (AMERICAN) (Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
WESTERN SANDPIPER (Calidris mauri)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
The Red-billed Tropicbird is extraordinarily graceful in flight -- though landing (as we saw repeatedly during the tour) can be a bit of a problem! (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
SWALLOW-TAILED GULL (Creagrus furcatus) LAVA GULL (Leucophaeus fuliginosus) [E]
BROWN NODDY (Anous stolidus galapagensis)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
GALAPAGOS DOVE (Zenaida galapagoensis) [E]
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata)
A Short-eared Owl (presumably the same one-eyed hunter we spotted last year) makes short work of a hapless storm-petrel. (Video by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
COMMON GROUND-DOVE (Columbina passerina) Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
DARK-BILLED CUCKOO (Coccyzus melacoryphus)
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani) [I]
Strigidae (Owls)
SHORT-EARED OWL (GALAPAGOS) (Asio flammeus galapagoensis)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
The gang enjoys a stroll at Gardner Bay. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
SPARKLING VIOLETEAR (Colibri coruscans) BLACK-TAILED TRAINBEARER (Lesbia victoriae)
WESTERN EMERALD (Chlorostilbon melanorhynchus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius) [N]
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
GALAPAGOS FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus magnirostris) [E]
Frigatebird chicks are, well, pretty cute... (Photo by participant Rick Woodruff)
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus) Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)
GALAPAGOS MARTIN (Progne modesta) [E]
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
GREAT THRUSH (Turdus fuscater)
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
GALAPAGOS MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus parvulus) [E]
FLOREANA MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus trifasciatus) [E]
ESPANOLA MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus macdonaldi) [E]
The Galapagos Mockingbird is the most widespread of the archipelago's mockingbirds -- and the only one found on multiple islands. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
SAN CRISTOBAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus melanotis) [E] Parulidae (New World Warblers)
YELLOW WARBLER (GALAPAGOS) (Setophaga petechia aureola)
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
BLUE-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Pipraeidea bonariensis)
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
SCRUB TANAGER (Tangara vitriolina)
GREEN WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea olivacea) [E]
A Flightless Cormorant pants on its seaweed nest. (Video by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca mentalis) [E] GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca luteola) [E]
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca cinerascens) [E]
VEGETARIAN FINCH (Platyspiza crassirostris) [E]
WOODPECKER FINCH (Camarhynchus pallidus striatipectus) [E]
LARGE TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus psittacula) [E]
The aptly named Vegetarian Finch is one of the world's few leaf-eating birds. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
MEDIUM TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus pauper) [E] SMALL TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus parvulus parvulus) [E]
SMALL TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus parvulus salvini) [E]
SMALL GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza fuliginosa) [E]
LARGE GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza magnirostris) [E]
SHARP-BEAKED GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza difficilis difficilis)
COMMON CACTUS-FINCH (Geospiza scandens) [E]
MEDIUM GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza fortis) [E]
A Small Ground-Finch at Bahia Urbina on Isabela -- one of an almost ridiculous number that gathered around is every time we "pished." (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
LARGE CACTUS-FINCH (Geospiza conirostris conirostris) [E] LARGE CACTUS-FINCH (Geospiza conirostris propinqua) [E]
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis)
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies)
HOODED SISKIN (Spinus magellanicus)
HOUSE MOUSE (Mus musculus)
BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN (Tursiops truncatus)
SHORT-FINNED PILOT WHALE (Globicephala macrorhynchus)
"GALAPAGOS" SEA LION (Zalophus californianus wollebacki)
A Galapagos Tortoise rests between exhausting bouts of grass eating. Big males like this can weigh upwards of 500 pounds -- and may be well over 100 years old! (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
GALAPAGOS FUR SEAL (Arctocephalus galapagoensis) [E]
Other creatures we saw:
HERPS
Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus)
Land Iguana (Conolophus subcristatus)
Galapagos Lava Lizard (Microlophus albemarlensis)
Floreana Lava Lizard (Microlophus grayi)
Espanola Lava Lizard (Microlophus delanonis)
Galapagos Leaf-toed Gecko (Phyllodactylus galapagoensis)
Galapagos Racer (Alsophis biseralis)
Galapagos Tortoise (Geochelone elephantopus)
Pacific Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas)
FISH
King Angelfish (Holacanthus passer)
Razor Surgeonfish (Prionurus laticlavius)
Longfin Halfbeak (Hemiramphus saltator)
Striped Black Salema (Xenocys jessiae)
Giant Damselfish (Microspathodon dorsalis)
Galapagos Ringtail Damselfish (Stegastes beebei)
Yellowtail Damselfish (Stegastes arcifrons)
Panamic Sergeant Major (Abudefduf troschelii)
Leather Bass (Dermatolepis dermatolepis)
Blue-chin Parrotfish (Scarus ghobban)
Spinster Wrasse (Halichoeres nicholsi)
Cortez Rainbow Wrasse (Thalassoma lucasanum)
Mexican Hognose (Bodianus diplotaenia)
Moorish Idol (Zanclus cornutus)
Steel Pompano (Trachinotus stilbe)
Guineafowl Puffer (Arothron meleagris)
Sunset Wrasse (Thalassoma grammaticum)
Orangeside Triggerfish (Sufflamen verres)
Razor Surgeonfish (Prionurus laticlavius)
Trumpetfish (Aulostomus maculatus)
Pacific Burrfish (Chilomycterus affinis)
Golden Cownose Ray (Rhinoptera steindachneri)
Giant Oceanic Manta Ray (Manta birostris)
Marbled Stingray or Reticulate Whipray (Himantura uarnak)
Diamond Stingray (Dasyatis dipterura)
BUTTERFLIES
Queen Butterfly (Danaus gilippus)
Galapagos Blue Butterfly (Leptodes parrhasioides)
Sulfur Butterfly (Phoebis sennae marcellina)
Large-tailed Skipper (Urbanus dorantes galapagensis)
OTHER INVERTEBRATES
Large Painted Locust (Schistocerca melanocera)
Small Painted Locust (Schistocerca literosa)
Galapagos Flightless Grasshopper (Halemus robustus)
Yellow Paper Wasp (Polistes versicolor)
Galapagos Carpenter Bee (Xylocopa darwini)
Spotless Ladybug (Cyloneda sanguinea)
Spot-winged Glider (Pantala hymenaea)
Ghost Crab (Ocypode gaudichaudii)
Sally Lightfoot Crab (Grapsus grapsus)
Semi-terrestrial Hermit Crab (Coenobita compressus)
Totals for the tour: 79 bird taxa and 5 mammal taxa