This was yet another fabulous and inspiring visit to the Enchanted Islands. Our tailor-made itinerary gets us to the most important islands and key visitor points for a chance at all possible bird endemics, which we got! Because of park visitation restrictions to certain islands and sites, some land birds are simply not gettable, which really only amounts to a few finch species. For birders Darwin’s Finches are always a highlight, not only because they were a key piece of the puzzle.
Every step of the way of our journey forged special moments, but here are some that really stand out: that jaw-dropping family group of Galapagos Rails feeding about almost at our feet; those adorable displaying Waved Albatrosses out on the rocky flats of Espanola… and their take-offs at the cliff weren’t bad either; Blue-footed Boobies “dancing” on our first afternoon; a marvelous display of American Flamingos with active nests and young at a beautiful salt lagoon on Floreana Island; some excellent looks at the increasingly endangered Brujo Flycatcher in the drippy highlands.; those enormous (and wild) Giant Tortoises in the Santa Cruz highlands, some that have gazed into the eyes of visitors and explorers for the better part of two centuries.
The sheer beauty of the islands is awe-inspiring, and the peace and sanctuary that they provide to the wildlife is so refreshing. Our attentive, knowledgeable and easy-going guide, Darwin, was one of the best Galapagos guides I have been in the field with, and he really added a lot to the success of our trip, especially with his fish identification skills. Our comfortable boat and first-rate crew, always at the ready, turned a great trip into an over-the-top experience. A big thanks goes out to Maggie for compiling an impressive fish list for a bunch of birders!
So have a read through the list that follows and relive some of the marvelous moments that we all shared together, and happy travels!
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
WHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL (GALAPAGOS) (Anas bahamensis galapagensis)
Common in fresh and saltwater ponds on Galapagos.
AMERICAN FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus ruber)
Seen first on Isabela when we stopped to take a look at some birds in a roadside pond, but we topped this on Floreana at Punta Cormorant in the salt lagoon where we had them at close range, and also nesting with eggs and young.
GALAPAGOS DOVE (Zenaida galapagoensis) [E]
Plentiful and seen on most days. A beautiful dove species.
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata)
Common in the gardens at the San Jose Hotel.
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani) [I]
A species introduced to the islands that is now common.
DARK-BILLED CUCKOO (Coccyzus melacoryphus)
Maggie was on fire and spotted them numerous times for us on Isabela!
SPARKLING VIOLETEAR (Colibri coruscans)
Common and displaying in the gardens at the San Jose Hotel in Quito.
BLACK-TAILED TRAINBEARER (Lesbia victoriae)
Seen by some at the San Jose on our first morning.
WESTERN EMERALD (Chlorostilbon melanorhynchus)
We had quick looks at a male getting chased by a Sparkling Violetear at the San Jose.
PAINT-BILLED CRAKE (Mustelirallus erythrops)
Kevin spotted one running through the grass, and Janie got the photographic proof. We got the group together and called in a pair for nice views. Santa Cruz highlands.
COMMON GALLINULE (Gallinula galeata)
Fairly common in ponds throughout the islands.
GALAPAGOS RAIL (Laterallus spilonota) [E]
This has to have been the birding highlight of the trip! I could not believe our luck when we called in a pair attending three chicks up in the highlands of Isabela, a place I've never seen it!
AMERICAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus palliatus galapagensis)
Seen a few times.
SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus)
One distant bird out along the edges of a salt pond on Floreana.
WHIMBREL (HUDSONIAN) (Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus)
One flew by during an afternoon hike on Genovesa.
WANDERING TATTLER (Tringa incana)
In small numbers throughout the islands.
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
We saw a pair at the dock on Floreana.
SWALLOW-TAILED GULL (Creagrus furcatus)
A stunning gull species that does much of its feeding nocturnally. We had our first looks at them at close range on N. Seymour Island on the first afternoon.
GRAY GULL (Leucophaeus modestus)
This was the gray-colored gull, with the pale head, standing on the beach on Floreana as we headed in to see the flamingos. It is similar enough to the Galapagos Gull that we unfortunately didn't pay much attention to it in our quest for Flamingos! Some folks got pics of it, confirming its id. This could be the first confirmed record for the islands, although it has apparently been reported before as a vagrant.
LAVA GULL (Leucophaeus fuliginosus) [E]
A gull endemic to Galapagos. We had our most memorable encounter with this species at a beach on Genovesa Island when a pair had a bit of a dispute right at our feet!
BROWN NODDY (Anous stolidus galapagensis)
Abundant throughout the islands.
RED-BILLED TROPICBIRD (Phaethon aethereus mesonauta)
An elegant oceanic species. How could we forget the groups of them in flight off of Champion Island?
GALAPAGOS PENGUIN (Spheniscus mendiculus) [E]
The northern-most occuring penguin whose populations are centered more on the western side of the islands where the waters are cooler, such as the coasts of Fernandina and Isabela, where we had some point-blank studies from the panga.
WAVED ALBATROSS (Phoebastria irrorata)
An exceptionally beautiful albatross that dazzled us with their courtship displays on Española Island. Almost the entire population of this species breeds on this island.
ELLIOT'S STORM-PETREL (Oceanites gracilis galapagoensis)
The common storm-petrel closer in to shore. Very similar to Wilson's Storm-Petrel.
BAND-RUMPED STORM-PETREL (Hydrobates castro)
The most pelagic of the regularly occurring storm-petrels. We had some nice studies of them during our cruises.
WEDGE-RUMPED STORM-PETREL (Hydrobates tethys tethys)
We saw them by the thousands as they came in to the visit their nests on Genovesa Island. One of the great avian spectacles of Galapagos.
MARKHAM'S STORM-PETREL (Hydrobates markhami)
Maggie spotted one for us when it flew by the boat just SW of Genovesa.
GALAPAGOS PETREL (Pterodroma phaeopygia)
Breeds on highland slopes in Galapagos. We had plenty of fine studies of them during our pelagic birding.
GALAPAGOS SHEARWATER (Puffinus subalaris)
Common throughout the archipelago, and we had some large rafts of them, especially between Isabela and Fernandina.
MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens)
The most commonly seen frigatebird in Galapagos.
GREAT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata minor ridgwayi)
We could not have seen them any better during our visits to N. Seymour and Genovesa where many males were in full display, with their red pouches the size of basketballs!
RED-FOOTED BOOBY (EASTERN PACIFIC) (Sula sula websteri)
Genovesa Island is home to one of the largest breeding colonies in the world of Red-footed Booby, so it was a real treat to be right there at ground-zero, surrounded by thousands of them!
NAZCA BOOBY (Sula granti)
Split from the Masked Booby. Seen best on Genovesa at one of their breeding colonies where they nest right along the trails.
BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY (Sula nebouxii excisa)
An emblematic species of Galapagos popularly found on many t-shirts and hats! We had pairs of them launching into their famous foot displays on our first afternoon at N. Seymour.
FLIGHTLESS CORMORANT (Nannopterum harrisi) [E]
Many fine views of this Galapagos endemic cormorant on Isabela and Fernandina, the only parts of the archipelago where they are found.
BROWN PELICAN (GALAPAGOS) (Pelecanus occidentalis urinator)
Common and seen on all days.
YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (GALAPAGOS) (Nyctanassa violacea pauper)
Most common in coastal areas.
STRIATED HERON (GALAPAGOS) (Butorides striata sundevalli) [E]
The Galapagos birds are now considered a subspecies of the mainland Striated Heron. While most of them a darker - looking like lava rock - and chunkier-legged, paler birds also occur, looking a lot like the birds from the continent.
WESTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus ibis)
Common throughout the islands.
GREAT BLUE HERON (GREAT BLUE) (Ardea herodias cognata)
In small numbers.
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
Seen at the San Jose hotel on the first morning.
GALAPAGOS HAWK (Buteo galapagoensis) [E]
Most common on uninhabited islands. We even spotted a bird attending a nest with a chick on Española!
BARN OWL (GALAPAGOS) (Tyto alba punctatissima)
We had a pair on the last day in the highlands of Santa Cruz at a known roost in a small shack. Apparently there were chicks in there too, but we couldn't see them.
SHORT-EARED OWL (GALAPAGOS) (Asio flammeus galapagoensis)
The darker colored Galapagos race. We spotted a distant one out on the lava fields on Genovesa as it hunted for storm-petrels, but really topped this when we found one at point-blank range along the roadside in the highlands of Santa Cruz.
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
Common in the central valley in the Quito area.
SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum)
Heard only in the gardens at the San Jose hotel.
BRUJO FLYCATCHER (GALAPAGOS) (Pyrocephalus nanus nanus)
Now officially split from the mainland Vermilion Flycatcher. This species is getting more and more difficult to find in the highlands of the larger islands, having disappeared from Floreana completely. Luckily populations seem to be hanging on pretty well on Isabela where we saw a few pairs well.
GALAPAGOS FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus magnirostris) [E]
Common on many of the islands, and often very confiding. The Galapagos endemic Myiarchus.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
On the grounds at the San Jose hotel.
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)
GALAPAGOS MARTIN (Progne modesta) [E]
This can be a tricky Galapagos endemic to track down, but we clinched pretty nice views at a female along the west coast of Isabela at a well-known nesting site for this species.
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)
The common swallow of the central valley that we saw on our first day.
GALAPAGOS MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus parvulus) [E]
Inhabits the younger and more central islands of the archipelago, with the exception of Genovesa Island in the north; the form there will probably get elevated to species status at some point.
FLOREANA MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus trifasciatus) [E]
Once occurred on Floreana Island, but now restricted to two satellite islands off of its coast. We had decent looks at them from the boat and panga - it is prohibited to land here - when they perched up on shrubby trees on Champion Island.
ESPANOLA MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus macdonaldi)
Right at our feet on Española Island. The most comical of the island's mockingbirds.
SAN CRISTOBAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus melanotis) [E]
Common everywhere on San Cristobal Island. We had our first looks at them at the tortoise station there.
TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus gilvus)
Seen by some at the San Jose on our first morning.
GREAT THRUSH (Turdus fuscater)
The common thrush of the Ecuadorian highlands.
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis)
No garden would be complete without this species in the highlands!
PERUVIAN MEADOWLARK (Leistes bellicosus)
Steve spotted this one from the plane next to the runway in Guayaquil.
YELLOW WARBLER (GALAPAGOS) (Setophaga petechia aureola)
Abundant throughout the islands.
BLUE-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Rauenia bonariensis)
Nice looks at a male on our first morning at the San Jose hotel.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
We had a pair feeding at a fruiting tree on our first round of birding at the San Jose hotel.
SCRUB TANAGER (Stilpnia vitriolina)
Yet another tanager species that we saw on our first morning before the flight to Galapagos.
CINEREOUS CONEBILL (Conirostrum cinereum)
Quick looks at the San Jose hotel.
SAFFRON FINCH (SAFFRON) (Sicalis flaveola valida)
Pretty common in the valleys around Quito.
GREEN WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea olivacea) [E]
Plenty of close encounters in the drippy highlands of Isabela and Santa Cruz.
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca mentalis) [E]
This species is divided into numerous island-specific forms… maybe some further splits one day? This was the one that we saw in the scrubby forests on Genovesa.
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca luteola) [E]
Common in pretty much all habitats on San Cristobal Island.
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca bifasciata)
The form found on Santa Fe Island that we saw during our hike through the cactus tree forests.
GRAY WARBLER-FINCH (Certhidea fusca cinerascens) [E]
Common in the low scrub of Espanola Island.
VEGETARIAN FINCH (Platyspiza crassirostris) [E]
This one had us scrambling a bit, and it took us up until the last day to find it despite numerous chances on other islands. Luckily our naturalist guide, Darwin, knew of a spot heading up into the highlands on Santa Cruz Island where we landed a male for nice views.
WOODPECKER FINCH (PALLIDUS/PRODUCTUS) (Camarhynchus pallidus pallidus) [E]
We continued our run with all of the possible finch species by seeing all of the Woodpecker Finch subspecies. This form is the one that we saw in the highlands of Santa Cruz.
WOODPECKER FINCH (PALLIDUS/PRODUCTUS) (Camarhynchus pallidus productus) [E]
We got our first looks at this species in the highlands of Isabela during a foggy, but birdy, morning.
WOODPECKER FINCH (STRIATIPECTA) (Camarhynchus pallidus striatipecta) [E]
The form endemic to San Cristobal Island that we had a couple of times, such as at the town cemetery.
LARGE TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus psittacula psittacula) [E]
The was our last Galapagos bird endemic of the trip, which is usually the case since we tend to visit the Santa Cruz highlands - by far the best spot for this species - on the last day. We even managed to get a female to perch on the barbed wire right net to the road!
MEDIUM TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus pauper) [E]
Plentiful and vocal in the highlands of Floreana Island, where it is endemic. We had some nice views at close males a few times.
SMALL TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus parvulus parvulus) [E]
A common finch of the humid highlands that we saw on a few islands.
SMALL TREE-FINCH (Camarhynchus parvulus salvini) [E]
The endemic form of this species to San Cristobal Island.
SMALL GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza fuliginosa) [E]
The most commonly seen of the finches, being found in essentially all habitat types, and on most islands.
LARGE GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza magnirostris) [E]
This species can sometimes play hard-to-get, but we had an easy time with them on Genovesa this year, seeing them around every bend of the trail!
GENOVESA GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza acutirostris) [E]
Once considered one of the forms of the Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch, but it is now split out as an endemic to Genovesa Island. In overall appearance, very similar to small ground-finches, but with a pointier beak.
COMMON CACTUS-FINCH (Geospiza scandens intermedia) [E]
We had our first looks at this one right in the town on Floreana Island when we called in a pair for point-blank views!
MEDIUM GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza fortis) [E]
One of the more commonly seen finches. This bill sizes of this species can really vary from island to island.
ESPANOLA GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza conirostris)
Española Island's endemic finch species. As with many finch species this trip, this one was as common as I've ever had it. Previously considered conspecific with the very different Genovesa Cactus-Finch, so definitely a good split!
GENOVESA GROUND-FINCH (Geospiza propinqua)
Another endemic to Genovesa Island, and as common as I have ever had them. Conditions were relatively green, so there must have been an abundance of food. We also saw them feeding at cactus flowers a few times.
BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN (Tursiops truncatus)
Seen in small numbers a couple times.
"GALAPAGOS" SEA LION (Zalophus californianus wollebacki)
Snorkeling with them was certainly a thrill!
GALAPAGOS FUR SEAL (Arctocephalus galapagoensis) [E]
Easy to find on Genovesa, where they even floated around us as we snorkeled.
MARINE IGUANA (Amblyrhynchus cristatus) [E]
The most exciting thing that these guys do is feed on beds of marine algae and sneeze salt spray into each other's faces, both of which we saw them do! We saw them daily and noticed the difference in size and colors between islands.
LAND IGUANA (Conolophus subcristatus) [E]
We saw them on our first afternoon in the islands during a visit to North Seymour Island where their populations seem to be doing very well.
SANTA FE LAND IGUANA (Conolophus pallidus)
Endemic to Santa Fe Island where they can be found roaming around amongst the tall cactus trees, waiting for a chance to pounce on a fallen fruit or pad.
GALAPAGOS LAVA LIZARD (Microlophus albemarlensis) [E]
Common on many islands.
ESPANOLA LAVA LIZARD (Microlophus delanonis) [E]
A large lava lizard found only on Espanola Island.
FLOREANA LAVA LIZARD (Microlophus grayi) [E]
Common right around the town on Floreana.
SAN CRISTOBAL LAVA LIZARD (Microlophus bivattatus) [E]
San Cristobal Island's endemic lava lizard. We had our best looks at them around the tortoise breeding station.
FLOREANA RACER (Philodryas hoodensis) [E]
We had one right at our feet during the hike at Punta Suarez.
GALAPAGOS (GIANT) TORTOISE (Geochelone elephantopus) [E]
One of the most emblematic animals of the Galapagos Islands. We saw huge individuals in the wild during our time in the Santa Cruz highlands, as well as subspecies from other islands in captivity for breeding purposes. We even spent a few minutes with old Lonesome George in his private mausoleum at the Darwin Station on our last day!
GREEN SEA TURTLE (Chelonia mydas)
Common throughout the islands, and seen spectacularly well during snorkeling outings.
Fish ID's based on Reef Fish Identification - Galápagos by Paul Humann and Ned DeLoach
19-Jun-23 snorkeling off Genovesa
20-Jun-23 snorkeling off Fernandina
22-Jun-23 snorkeling off Champion (Darwin, Shelia, Maggie only)
23-Jun-23 snorkeling off Santa Fe
24-Jun-23 snorkeling off Española
plus some miscellaneous sightings from the Nemo III while sailing or anchored
first sighting date shown
19-Jun-23 Panamic Fanged Blenny (aka Large-banded Blenny
19-Jun-23 King Angelfish
19-Jun-23 Guinea Fowl puffer (both yellow and black and white phases)
19-Jun-23 Cortez rainbow wrasse (2 phases)
19-Jun-23 Moorish Idol
19-Jun-23 Giant Damselfish (2 phases)
19-Jun-23 Blue-chinned Parrotfish
19-Jun-23 Black-striped Selema
19-Jun-23 Razor surgeonfish
19-Jun-23 Scissortail Chromis
19-Jun-23 Goldrim Surgeonfish--(Mitch & Darwin)
20-Jun-23 Dusky chub
20-Jun-23 Galapagos Ringtail damselfish
20-Jun-23 Loose tooth parrot fish
20-Jun-23 Harlequin wrasse
20-Jun-23 Mexican hogfish
20-Jun-23 Giant hawkfish
20-Jun-23 Balloon fish
20-Jun-23 Orangeside trigger fish
20-Jun-23 Pacific beak fish
20-Jun-23 Reef cornet fish
22-Jun-23 Barracuda
23 Jun-23 Fine scaled trigger fish
23 Jun-23 Three banded butterfly fish
23 Jun-23 Pacific Creolefish
23 Jun-23 Galâpagos four eye blenny
23 Jun-23 Diamond Stingray
23 Jun-23 Bumphead Damselfish
23 Jun-23 Yellow-tailed Damselfish
23 Jun-23 Black-tailed mullet
24-Jun-23 Barred Flagtail
24-Jun-23 Blacktip Cardinal fish
24-Jun-23 Calico Lizardfish
24-Jun-23 Spinster Wrasse
24-Jun-23 Leather bass (juvenile)
24-Jun-23 Blue and Gold Snapper
24-Jun-23 Galápagos Grunt (juvenile)
24-Jun-23 Galápagos Sheepshead--Mitch
24-Jun-23 Barberfish--Mitch
25-Jun-23 Halfbeak fish-From the Nemo III
25-Jun-23 black-tipped reef shark-From the Nemo III
25-Jun-23 sardines-From the Nemo III
-Mola mola-From the Nemo III
-bottle nosed dolphins-From the Nemo III
Other Critters (ID's based on Marine Life of the Galápagos by Pierre Constant)
-Longspine urchins
-Green sea urchin
-white sea urchin
-pencil sea urchin
-Orange cup coral
-Green sea turtle
-chocolate chip starfish
-Galápagos sea star? orange "starfish" we saw in multiple spots; no obvious arms
-Blue star (Linckia laevigata)
Totals for the tour: 87 bird taxa and 3 mammal taxa