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Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)

GRAYLAG GOOSE (Anser anser)

Two waddled across a grassy peninsula on the Evros Delta, keeping a wary eye on us. According to Maria, they're part of a small -- but growing -- population breeding there.

MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor)

Several pairs and small groups floated on ponds and waterways on the Evros Delta, and we found a pair with five small, fluffy gray cygnets feeding along the edge of a stream near Lagos Lagoon.

BLACK SWAN (Cygnus atratus) [I]

One floating on an impoundment on the Evros Delta had clearly escaped from somewhere, considering the nearest wild birds are in Australia! Greek newspapers report that the bird was first spotted in late April and has been monitored by local conservationists since then.

TUNDRA SWAN (BEWICK'S) (Cygnus columbianus bewickii) [b]

One presumably injured bird stood on the banks of a pond on the Evros Delta, showing nicely the big yellow base to its bill. This species winters in sizable numbers on the delta, but most are typically gone long before the time of our tour.

COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)

Abundant on the ponds, lakes and lagoons along the coast of the Aegean on the first half of the tour.

NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata) [b]

A few lingering pairs floated on ponds on the Evros Delta. Though they winter in Greece, most have headed north to breed by the time of our tour.

MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)

Scattered pairs in many of the wetlands on the first half of the tour.

FERRUGINOUS DUCK (Aythya nyroca)

Two floated along the back edge of a pond on the Evros Delta before disappearing into the taller reeds there -- nice spotting, Ed!

Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)

GREATER FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus roseus)

After less-than-stellar views of a few distant birds around Fanari and Porto Lagos, we finally connected with more than 400 -- including some close birds stomping near the path we walked -- at Kalochori Lagoon outside Thessaloniki.

Podicipedidae (Grebes)

LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)

A few of these small grebes floated on duckweed-covered ponds and channels in Lake Kerkini NP, looking a bit like floating powder puffs.

GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)

Seen particularly well near the little harbor in Lithotopos, where several pairs floated each morning, with others elsewhere on Lake Kerkini, the Evros Delta and around Fanari and Porto Lagos.

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)

Common throughout, including 100 or more wheeling over (and perching on) scruffy farm buildings by the ditch where we found our Little Bitterns.

COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus) [*]

I think Maria and Ed were the only folks to hear one calling from the forest on Mount Olympus.

EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)

Our first was a rusty-backed bird on a telephone wire along the road into Fanari -- nice spotting, Donna -- and we had others at Ptelea Lagoon. But our best views came at Chimarros quarry, where several singing males purred from bushes high on the quarry walls.

EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)

Abundant throughout, seen on every day of the tour -- including courting pairs on the streets of virtually every village we went through.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos)

COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)

Common throughout, particularly on the second half of the tour, where their distinctive "cuckoo clock" calls were a regular part of the tour soundtrack. We had nice looks at one perched in a poplar tree near Lake Kerkini (not far from our penduline-tit nest) and another on a telephone wire in Agioi Theodoroi (seen while we searched for Lesser Kestrels). As we saw several times, this species can look surprisingly falcon-like in flight.

Apodidae (Swifts)

ALPINE SWIFT (Tachymarptis melba)

Dozens winged over Athens, where their huge size and white bellies made them easy to pick out from the smaller Pallid and Common Swifts. We saw a handful of others over Delphi.

COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)

Regular throughout, often in big, wheeling flocks. This species is more uniformly dark than the next, and typically has a much smaller white throat patch.

PALLID SWIFT (Apus pallidus)

Regular in the skies over Athens (particularly over the HIll of Muses) with even closer looks at others in Litochoro -- especially the ones repeatedly dipping down to drink from the pond in the town's park. A few of the group saw another handful over Osios Loukas.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

WATER RAIL (Rallus aquaticus)

With some patience -- and a bit of roadside shuffling -- we all got stupendous views of one inquisitive bird as it checked out my speaker. What a cool bird!

EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)

A few chugged back and forth across drainage/irrigation ditches east of Lake Kerkini one morning, seen as we tried to find a Little Bittern.

EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)

Regular in wet spots on the first half of the tour, with our best looks probably coming on the Evros Delta. This species has a much larger white shield than the American Coot does, and lacks any white on the undertail coverts.

Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)

BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)

Regular on the Evros Delta and various salt pans, striding around on their long, pink legs.

PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)

Scattered pairs in wetlands along the coast, with another 15 or so from the east bank of Lake Kerkini, where we got to watch them demonstrate their distinctive feeding motion. This is a resident species in Greece.

Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)

EURASIAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus ostralegus)

Another species seen regularly in wetlands along the coast -- typically in pairs and sometimes with one appearing to be sitting on a nest. Despite their name, many of these oystercatchers feed on worms rather than shellfish.

Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)

BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola) [b]

A double handful on the Evros delta, with bigger numbers in a few places around Fanari and Porto Lagos -- including some already in fine breeding plumage. These are passage migrants, going from wintering grounds in Africa north to breeding grounds in the high Arctic (and a few mountaintops).

COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula) [b]

A few on the Evros delta, with others at Kalochori Lagoon and a single bird along the river at Iasmos gorge. This is another passage migrant headed for the high Arctic.

LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius)

Two along the edge of the Vistonida Lagoon one evening showed nicely the yellow eye rings and skinny pale legs that help to distinguish them from the Common Ringed Plover. This species breeds across much of Greece.

NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)

A couple of small groups on the Evros delta with others along the coast near Fanari. This is a wintering species across much of Greece, though there is a resident population in parts of the northern Aegean.

SPUR-WINGED LAPWING (Vanellus spinosus)

Quite common on the Evros Delta, with pairs sprinkled over many of the vegetated pans. This primarily African species just edges into Europe in extreme southeastern Greece.

KENTISH PLOVER (KENTISH) (Anarhynchus alexandrinus alexandrinus)

A handful on the Evros Delta with others along the coast near Porto Lagos. This species was split from North America's Snowy Plover.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)

WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus) [b]

Two poked and prodded their way along a sandbar just off the Porto Lagos beach, conveniently close to the next species for easy comparison. Whimbrels are smaller, with shorter bills and a more patterned face and head. These would have been in transit from the African coast to the high Arctic.

EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)

A few sprinkled across the Evros delta with others around Porto Lagos and Fanari. This species winters along Greece's coasts before heading far to the north to breed.

MARSH SANDPIPER (Tringa stagnatilis) [b]

One at the windy Alyki saltworks played hard to get, ducking out of view behind a bund separating the pans before most got a look. The straight, very thin, sharply-tipped bill of this shorebird is distinctive. This is another migrant through Greece.

WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola) [b]

Only a couple of individuals, poking along the edges of channels or shallow puddles on the Evros delta. The bold white eyebrow of this passage migrant helps to identify it.

COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)

Especially nice views of one standing on a berm at the Porto Lagos salt pans, showing well its scarlet legs and bill.

SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus) [b]

A single bird, already in its black breeding plumage, foraged among a group of Ruff on the Evros Delta -- good spotting, Ed!

COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia) [b]

A couple at the windy Alyki saltworks, towering over the busy Little Stints. This species resembles a pale Greater Yellowlegs -- though minus the bright yellow legs, of course!

RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres) [b]

A group of 18 rummaged along a causeway on the Evros delta, and we found another few at Porto Lagos. This is yet another passage migrant.

RUFF (Calidris pugnax) [b]

A few small groups foraged on the Evros delta, fueling up for the trip north. We saw males of several color morphs, though none showing their distinctive ruffs.

CURLEW SANDPIPER (Calidris ferruginea) [b]

Well over 100 at the Alyki saltworks, with dozens of others around Porto Lagos. Some were already sporting their snazzy breeding plumage.

SANDERLING (Calidris alba) [b]

Two rummaged along the end of a sandy bar just off the Porto Lagos beach, spotted as we watched an Eurasian Curlew. This is another winter visitor which is typically long gone by the time of our tour.

DUNLIN (Calidris alpina) [b]

A single bird among the Little Stints at Kalochori, easily distinguished from the multitudes by its black belly. We saw others on the Evros delta.

LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta) [b]

We found our biggest group at Kalochori, where some 120 swarmed over the mudflats, but there were numerous others at the Alyki and Porto Lagos salt pans, on the Evros delta and along the Ptelea lagoon. This is the common "peep" in Greece.

Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)

COLLARED PRATINCOLE (Glareola pratincola)

Our best views came on the Evros Delta, where dozens streamed past over our heads and scores swirled over nearby fields. We saw a double handful of these graceful, swallow-like shorebirds quartering low over a golden field of wheat near Ptelea Lagoon, and others as we drove out of Fanari towards Iasmos gorge.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)

LITTLE GULL (Hydrocoloeus minutus)

One snuggled into a hollow in a muddy berm at the windy Porto Lagos salt pans was tough to see. Fortunately, we had much better views of more than a dozen others at the Kalochori Lagoon. They dipped down to pick things off the surface of the water or stood in the shallows to preen.

SLENDER-BILLED GULL (Chroicocephalus genei)

Two at the Alyki saltworks showed wonderfully well, allowing us to study their distinctively "nose-y" profile, slight pinkish flush and striking wing pattern -- both in flight and on the water. We had another along the Porto Lagos coastline.

BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)

Nearly a dozen floated on the pans at the Alyki saltworks (where they allowed good comparison with the previous species), and we saw a handful of others at the Porto Lagos lagoon.

MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)

We had a single bird on the Evros delta (in the same area as our hundreds of Collared Pratincoles), but our best views came at one of the lagoons near Porto Lagos. The jet black (rather than chocolate brown) hood, pure white wingtips and scarlet bill help to distinguish this southern species from the more widespread Black-headed Gull.

COMMON GULL (Larus canus)

A single bird flew past while we birded the coastline at Ptelea Lagoon, presumably an overwintering bird that lingered in the area.

YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (MICHAHELLIS) (Larus michahellis michahellis)

By far the most common gull of the trip, seen in their hundreds on every day but one -- and we probably just weren't paying enough attention that day. This species was split from the Herring Gull complex, but molecular studies show it to be more closely related to the Lesser Black-backed Gull.

LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)

Small numbers scattered along the coast, with particularly nice looks at a half dozen noisily patrolling the shoreline at the Porto Lagos lagoon. These small terns are closely related to (and strongly resembles) the Least Tern of the Americas.

GULL-BILLED TERN (Gelochelidon nilotica)

A trio by the Alyki lagoon, with another four at the Porto Lagos saltworks.

CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)

A couple of these big terns -- the world's largest tern species -- rested on a sandy bar just off the Porto Lagos beach. Given that this species winters south of the Mediterranean, these birds were probably on their way north to their breeding grounds.

WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)

A flock of three dozen or so swirled over the Andriani Reservoir on a windy afternoon, and we saw a few others along the fringes of Lake Kerkini.

BLACK TERN (Chlidonias niger)

Particularly common on the Evros delta, plus a single bird among the mob of Whiskered Terns at the Andriani Reservoir and another trio at the Porto Lagos saltworks. Uniformly gray upperparts separate it from the similar White-winged Tern.

WHITE-WINGED TERN (Chlidonias leucopterus)

A double handful over the Evros delta, with others over the Mandra marshes, where their white wings (and rumps) were easy to see.

COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)

This species certainly lived up to its name, seeing as it was widespread in wetlands from the Evros delta to Lake Kerkini.

SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis)

A half dozen birds flapped by along the coastline at Ptelea lagoon, calling loudly to each other.

Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)

CORY'S SHEARWATER (Calonectris diomedea)

Hundreds wheeled far out over the sea off the coast at various locations around Fanari. This species has now been split; the ones we saw are now considered to be Scopoli's Shearwaters (Calonectris diomedea). They breed in the Mediterranean and move out into the Atlantic during the non-breeding season.

YELKOUAN SHEARWATER (Puffinus yelkouan)

There were far fewer of these smaller shearwaters than the previous species, wheeling over the waves way offshore, several places around Fanari. Though some of us could pick out their smaller size and subtly different flight style through the scopes, it certainly wasn't the look we were hoping for.

Ciconiidae (Storks)

BLACK STORK (Ciconia nigra)

Small numbers on scattered days between the Evros delta and Lake Kerkini, including one that glided past right over our heads on the delta and a half dozen circling over the Dadia forest.

WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)

Particularly common around Lake Kerkini -- especially in Lithotopos, where nests seemed to dot nearly every telephone pole in town! We saw a few birds settled on those nests and others striding around in surrounding agricultural fields both there and nearer the coast.

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)

PYGMY CORMORANT (Microcarbo pygmaeus)

Common around Lake Kerkini, including some 50 in the Chrisochorafa channel east of the lake itself. We had particularly nice looks at several of these distinctively small cormorants drying their wings along a channel in the Evros delta.

GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)

Easily the most common cormorant of the trip, including a staggering number (i.e. well over 1000) in a flapping, roiling feeding frenzy, chasing a "bait ball" (a school of small fish) at Lake Kerkini.

EUROPEAN SHAG (Gulosus aristotelis)

Dozens on an islet just off the Ptelea Lagoon, sprinkled on boulders along the islet's edges or resting on its rocky top. This is far less common than the previous species over most of our tour route.

Pelecanidae (Pelicans)

GREAT WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus onocrotalus)

Nearly three dozen at one of our final stops on the Evros delta, with another double handful at Lagos Lagoon and smaller numbers around Lake Kerkini. Their black and white underwing pattern helps to separate them from the next species in flight.

DALMATIAN PELICAN (Pelecanus crispus)

Regular around Lake Kerkini, including a small group in nice comparison with the previous species in the little harbor near our hotel. This is the larger of the two pelican species found in Greece; they dwarfed the Great Cormorants floating nearby. They have an all gray underwing.

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)

GREAT BITTERN (Botaurus stellaris)

We heard the distinctive booming call of this skulker emanating from a reed bed on the Evros Delta and were then treated to a brief view when Maria spotted another in flight nearby.

LITTLE BITTERN (Ixobrychus minutus)

At least three of these small bitterns flicked through the reeds lining a couple of channels near Lake Kerkini, showing their strongly two-toned wings as they moved. Unfortunately, they were never in sight for long.

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)

Donna spotted one on the Evros delta, but it took the rest of us until Lake Kerkini to catch up. And catch up we did, with some three dozen seen around the lake's fringes -- including numbers hunting in the shallows at the northern end.

LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)

Small numbers at many locations along the coast, with another hunting the shallow riverbed under the bridge at Iasmos gorge and more than a dozen at Lake Kerkini.

SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)

Our best looks came at the north end of Lake Kerkini, where we spotted about a dozen, with another pair on the Evros delta. This species is actually a "pond heron" (i.e. in the same genus as all of the world's pond-herons), despite the lack of that descriptor in its common name.

WESTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus ibis)

A few as we made our way onto the Evros delta, with others in flight over Fanari one morning. Ed saw more in a field along the road near Lake Kerkini. The Cattle Egret complex has recently been split; Westerns are found in the Americas, Africa and Europe, east to the Middle East and the "stans".

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)

A handful sprinkled across the Evros delta with a few others spotted in wet spots as we drove near the coast. This is a winter visitor to Greece; most have headed north by the time of our tour.

GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)

Regular in wetland areas of the tour, particularly around Lake Kerkini, where we watched one wrestle with a Tessellated Water Snake.

PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)

Super views of a few on the Evros delta, where one flew right past us, with a couple of others around Lake Kerkini.

Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)

GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)

A group of 10 or so on the Evros delta, with others along the drive as we headed southwest out of Lithotopos towards Vergina. Somewhat surprisingly, Glossy Ibis aren't known to nest in most of Greece, though they do migrate back and forth through the country in good numbers.

EURASIAN SPOONBILL (Platalea leucorodia)

Good numbers around Lake Kerkini -- particularly at its northern end, where we found roughly 80 sieving the shallow waters. We saw a handful of others on the Evros delta.

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)

EGYPTIAN VULTURE (Neophron percnopterus)

A single bird strolled among the ravens at the Dadia Raptor Center's feeding station, but was spooked off shortly after our arrival at the site. Unfortunately, it quickly rose up into the skies and disappeared over a ridge, never to be seen again.

CINEREOUS VULTURE (Aegypius monachus)

A few of these massive vultures in flight over the charred forest at Dadia. Given the severity of the burn, it was good to see them still around. Apparently, park staff have built platforms for them to nest on (they're normally in trees) and the vultures seem to have taken to them. Phew!

EURASIAN GRIFFON (Gyps fulvus)

Also seen in small numbers, circling over the parking lot at Dadia. This species is smaller and paler than the previous, though "smaller" is relative -- its wingspan is still 7.5 to 9 feet!

SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)

Small numbers throughout much of the tour, including a few soaring over Dadia forest, one kiting high over the Alistrati-Petroto grasslands, one following the ridge line at the Delphi archeological site, and another over Mount Parnassos.

LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga pomarina)

One hunted over the hillside behind our Lithotopos hotel, spotted by a few of us as we headed back to our rooms after a day circling Lake Kerkini. Unfortunately, it dropped down out of sight before everybody could scramble up to the top floor.

BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus)

More than a half dozen seen in total, scattered over the Evros delta, Dadia forest, Vrysika, and the Alistrati-Petroto grasslands. The light morph, which looks strikingly like a Swainson's Hawk, is the common form in Greece.

WESTERN MARSH HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)

Regular in wetland areas, typically coursing low over the marshes. We found our first on the Evros delta, and found others at the Porto Lagos saltworks, Ptelea Lagoon and beyond the mass of flamingos at Kalochori. Unlike our familiar Northern Harrier, this one lacks a white rump.

LEVANT SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter brevipes) [N]

A pair reportedly nesting in a tree by a church near Lake Kerkini (we didn't spot the nest) played hard to get, with one sailing in while we enjoyed our picnic lunch but remaining stubbornly out of view and the other continuing on into more distant trees. Eventually, we found the right "window" and got scope views of the perched male's dark eye and cheek -- features that help to distinguish it from the more widespread Eurasian Sparrowhawk. Unlike most Accipter species, this one specializes on lizards.

EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)

One flap-flap-glided over us at Philopappos Hill in Athens during our toasty walk there, and others did the same around Lake Kerkini and at several spots near Fanari. Like North America's Accipiters, these are bird-hunting specialists.

BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans)

Five perched in dead snags over the carcass pile at Dadia's raptor feeding station, or shifted along the edge of the mob checking out the few remaining scraps.

COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)

Seen on about half the days of the tour, often in flight. As we saw, they come in a variety of color morphs. This is one of Europe's most common raptors.

Strigidae (Owls)

EURASIAN SCOPS-OWL (Otus scops)

One calling from a pine below our rooms at the Kerkini hotel had us scrambling up and down the steep hillside in the dark, trying to find a suitable vantage point. Eventually, we found the "sweet spot" and had super views as it tooted away. We heard another calling from a tree in the municipal park in Lithochoro as we walked back to our hotel from dinner, and attracted a handful of puzzled passersby as we tried to find it.

LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)

Our first sat atop a telephone pole near an abandoned beachside building in Fanari, giving us the chance for long leisurely views -- and plenty of pictures. We found two more snuggling on a ledge near the goat shed outside Delphi on our last morning; they appeared to be recently fledged youngsters, rather than a pair.

Upupidae (Hoopoes)

EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)

At least a half dozen bounced across the grassy lawn of the park surrounding the Acropolis, fanning their crests and interacting as the prodded the ground for prey. We saw smaller numbers of others elsewhere throughout the tour: around Fanari, at Lake Kerkini and near Delphi.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)

Ed shouted when he spotted one zipping along a channel near Lake Kerkini, but it disappeared before anyone else had a chance to react.

Meropidae (Bee-eaters)

EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)

Very common throughout most of the tour, either winging overhead in noisy, wheeling flocks or perched like colorful ornaments on tree branches, including some big numbers along the Chrisochorafa channel east of Lake Kerkini.

Coraciidae (Rollers)

EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)

Surprisingly few this trip -- a scattering on roadside wires along the highway as we headed to get our permit for the Evros delta and a much more satisfying individual on a wire at our transfer-day stop just outside Fanari.

Picidae (Woodpeckers)

WHITE-BACKED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos leucotos)

Two in the forest on Mount Olympus made us work for a look, but we got there in the end! This scarce species requires big stands of undisturbed forest, and is thus declining across much of its extensive range.

SYRIAN WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos syriacus)

A few scattered individuals, including one in Fanari street trees on a pre-breakfast walk, another in the pines in a little park in Agioi Theodoroi and a final few around Lake Kerkini.

LESSER SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dryobates minor)

All too brief glimpses for some of a bird along a track beside some overgrown ponds near Lake Kerkini. Unfortunately, it fled off down the trail before most got the chance to see it.

GRAY-HEADED WOODPECKER (Picus canus) [*]

We heard one of these uncommon woodpeckers calling from a poplar grove along the Strimonas River, but couldn't entice it in for a look.

EURASIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus viridis)

One bounded past while we searched for Levant Sparrowhawk at the shrine where we picnicked on the day we birded around Lake Kerkini, and we saw another in the Chimarros quarry.

Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)

LESSER KESTREL (Falco naumanni)

It took some patience -- and a lot of scuttling back and forth up and down various side roads in the little village of Agioi Theodoroi -- but we finally got some good looks at these social kestrels, including one perched right along the main road into town. We could even see its distinctive pale toenails! Our scopes attracted a bit of attention and brought some of the locals out for a look -- including one woman who brought chocolate for everybody.

EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)

Very common and widespread, seen on all but a couple of days of the tour -- even in Athens, where they were hunting around the Acropolis and Parthenon.

RED-FOOTED FALCON (Falco vespertinus)

After missing them on the Evros delta, where they're often common, we got fine views of a quartet alternately coursing low over the expansive, grassy hilltop or perched atop shrubs at Alistrati-Petroto.

EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)

A group of four or so hunted dragonflies in the lee of some tall poplars along a stream near Vrysika, and we saw other individuals around Fanari on each of our days along the coast there.

PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)

One glided along the ridge line west of Delphi, seen as we searched for Rock Sparrows, and another (or perhaps the same bird) perched on a little cliff near the goat sheds we visited west of Delphi on our last morning.

Psittaculidae (Old World Parrots)

ROSE-RINGED PARAKEET (Psittacula krameri) [I]

Fairly common around Athens, with small groups flying past while we birded near the Acropolis and on the Hill of Muses, and many more at the National Gardens. This introduced species has become quite invasive in cities across Europe.

Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)

MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus) [I]

Almost ridiculously abundant in the National Gardens in Athens, where we found several sizable groups foraging on the ground and watched others around their communal stick nests in some of the big conifer trees. This is another introduced species.

Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)

EURASIAN GOLDEN ORIOLE (Oriolus oriolus)

As usual, we heard the mellow warble of this handsome species far more often than we saw the singers, but we did connect (albeit briefly) with a few around Fanari on our pre-breakfast walks, with another couple at the Chimarros quarry and with a half dozen others around Lake Kerkini. Despite its name, this species is not related to American orioles.

Laniidae (Shrikes)

RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)

Regular on the first half of the tour (from the Evros Delta to Kerkini) plus a swirling gang of at least nine hunting from bush tops at our last stop on Mount Parnassus.

WOODCHAT SHRIKE (Lanius senator)

Our first were a trio hunting from pines in Dadia forest -- great spotting, Donna! We had nice views of others at the Chimarros quarry and in and around the town of Delphi.

Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)

EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)

Lovely views of one foraging for long minutes just above head height along one of the paths at the National Garden in Athens (where we attracted much attention from bemused passersby), with another heard in Dadia forest.

EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)

Very common throughout, seen on most days. This species was formerly considered to be conspecific with what is now the Black-billed Magpie of North America, but was split on the basis of vocal and behavioral differences.

YELLOW-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax graculus)

After a long search on Mount Parnassos, we finally spotted a pair at one of the ski resorts. They flew, calling, along a ridge, then turned and came directly towards us, giving us some fine views of those distinctive yellow beaks.

EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)

Particularly common around Agioi Theodoroi, where they jousted with the kestrels around the church tower, but also seen in Soufli, around Fanari and in Lithochoro. The pale eyes and grayish hood of this small crow quickly distinguish it from its larger cousins.

HOODED CROW (Corvus cornix)

Common and widespread throughout, seen on every day of the tour. This species was formerly lumped with what is now the Carrion Crow; the two species are nearly identical genetically, but appear to select mates based on appearance with hybridization events being quite rare, occurring only occasionally in a narrow overlap zone.

COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax) [N]

More than a dozen in Dadia forest, some in pairs flying past over the burned snags, more around the carcasses at the feeding station. We found an occupied nest with at Lake Kerkini, and Ed spotted another at the Chimarros quarry.

Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)

COAL TIT (Periparus ater)

One singing from a treetop on Mount Olympus was hard to see through the fog. Fortunately, we found others in better conditions on Mount Parnassos. The big white "thumbprint" on the back of their head helps to distinguish this species from Europe's other tits.

SOMBRE TIT (Poecile lugubris)

A chattering pair worked along the scrubby hillside west of Delphi where we looked for Rock Sparrows, but our best looks came among the Delphi ruins, where we found several with a very agitated group of little passerines mobbing some out-of-sight menace.

EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)

A pair or two in the street trees on our pre-breakfast walks through Fanari each morning, with another pair near the waterfall at Mount Olympus and others in the pines surrounding a hotel on the edge of Delphi.

GREAT TIT (Parus major)

The most common and widespread of the tour's tits, particularly on the second half of the trip. The birds rummaging through trees near where we parked at Dadia were particularly obliging.

Remizidae (Penduline-Tits)

EURASIAN PENDULINE-TIT (Remiz pendulinus) [N]

Our best looks, by far, came near Lake Kerkini, when we found a little male singing from a branch near his huge, newly constructed nest along a track. We had another near the Alyki Lagoon. The species gets both its common and scientific names from its impressive hanging nest.

Alaudidae (Larks)

GREATER SHORT-TOED LARK (Calandrella brachydactyla)

A single bird seen late in the day on the Evros delta.

CALANDRA LARK (Melanocorypha calandra)

We looked long and hard at the Porto Lagos salt pans before we finally spotted several in flight display over the nearby fields. The black underwing of these big larks is distinctive. We saw others in the gorgeous hilltop grasslands at Alistrati-Petroto, on our drive from Fanari to Lithotopos.

WOOD LARK (Lullula arborea)

After hearing the wonderful song of this aptly named species, raining down from the heavens over Dadia, we finally laid eyes on them at the Chimarros quarry, where a little group of them rummaged around a puddle near the edge of the track.

EURASIAN SKYLARK (Alauda arvensis)

A few in display flights over the marshes of the Evros delta, with others high over the road into Fanari.

CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)

The most common of the tour's larks, seen on about half the days of the tour. The pronounced crest on the top of this bird's head, and the peachy underside to its relatively short, rounded wings help to distinguish it from the other larks. It was enlightening to directly compare them to Calandra Larks in display flights over the Porto Lagos salt pans.

Acrocephalidae (Reed Warblers and Allies)

EASTERN OLIVACEOUS WARBLER (Iduna pallida)

This plain little warbler was its typical skulky self -- more often heard than seen -- though hormones brought several of them into the open for a singsong. We had particularly nice looks at one near our (frustrating) nightingale spot in Soufli and at another near the harbor in Lithotopos.

COMMON REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)

A pair twitched through a reed stand along the edge of a canal on the Evros delta, and another pair did the same on the Mandra coast near Porto Lagos.

GREAT REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)

Splendid views of many of these big, noisy warblers as they chortled from flowering reeds along a ditch near Lake Kerkini with briefer views of another in Fanari.

Hirundinidae (Swallows)

BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)

Seen on scattered days around wetlands, typically in small numbers -- except for the very windy day when we found nearly 300 migrants fluttering low over the Andriani Reservoir.

EURASIAN CRAG-MARTIN (Ptyonoprogne rupestris) [N]

A few coursed back and forth in front of the craggy edges of Iasmos Gorge, and Jan found us a pair swooping in to a nest tucked under an overhang. We saw others zooming around on Mount Parnassos. Their all-dark coloring quickly separates them from Greece's other swallows.

BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica) [N]

Daily, everywhere, and often in good numbers, including some with nests being constructed under the eaves of buildings in various towns we visited.

WESTERN HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum) [N]

Another common and widespread species, and another one whose nests were regularly seen growing under building eaves. The masses chattering away on our hotel in Lithotopos were particularly entertaining. Their large white rump patch helps to distinguish them from other swallows.

RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (Cecropis daurica)

Another widespread species; though never very numerous, it was recorded on most days. The all-dark vent and undertail helps to distinguish it from the Barn Swallow in flight -- as does the pinkish rump, of course! When perched (as some were in Delphi), they're much easier to pick out.

Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)

COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)

After hearing their onomatopoeic songs throughout the Dadia woodlands, we finally laid eyes on one of these rather plain birds during a pre-breakfast walk at Fanari. Its dark legs and regularly dipping tail help to ID it -- as does its distinctive song, of course!

Scotocercidae (Bush Warblers and Allies)

CETTI'S WARBLER (Cettia cetti)

Regular in wetland areas throughout, but far more frequently heard than seen. One slipping through the tamarisks on the Evros delta was seen well by a few, and some got looks at another in a bramble bush in Fanari. But our best views probably came at Ptelea Lagoon, where we found an inquisitive pair near where we spotted our penduline-tits.

Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)

LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)

A noisy little gang swirled through the treetops at the National Garden in Athens, shortly before we made our way out of the park. We heard the high-pitched calls of others in Delphi on one of our pre-breakfast walks there.

Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers and Allies)

EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)

Surprisingly few this year, with a couple seen in Dadia forest, another two (including the tour's only brown-capped female) along the main road in Fanari. Our best views probably came on Mount Olympus, where a male sang incessantly from trees around the cafe parking lot.

LESSER WHITETHROAT (Curruca curruca)

One skulking bird along a rocky slope on Mount Parnassos made us work hard for a look as it flitted from bush to bush. This species is much plainer than its Greater Whitethroat cousin, with none of the latter's rusty wing patches.

RUEPPELL'S WARBLER (Curruca ruppeli)

A very obliging bird on a flowery hillside near Delphi showed us just about every possible side and angle while he sang from a succession of bushes.

SARDINIAN WARBLER (Curruca melanocephala)

Spectacular views of a singing male on our morning ramble around Philopappos Hill in Athens on our "extra" morning, with others on scrubby hillsides west of Delphi.

EASTERN SUBALPINE WARBLER (Curruca cantillans)

A handsome male serenaded us as it flicked through bushes on a scruffy hillside west of Delphi; that rusty throat and breast is certainly eye-catching! This species was recently split from birds in western Europe on the basis of some subtle vocal and morphological differences.

GREATER WHITETHROAT (Curruca communis)

A couple of birds sang challenges at each other from bush tops on the Evros delta, giving us good looks at their white throats and rusty wing patches. We saw (and heard) others on a couple of our pre-breakfast walks in Fanari.

Regulidae (Kinglets)

COMMON FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)

One twitched through the big pines near the monastery on Mount Olympus, seen as we finished our picnic lunch there. But we had our best looks on Mount Parnassos, where we found at least a half dozen at various spots. Along with the closely related Goldcrest, this is Europe's smallest bird.

Sittidae (Nuthatches)

WESTERN ROCK NUTHATCH (Sitta neumayer) [N]

We found our first on a rocky outcrop west of Delphi, while looking for Rock Sparrows. But our best looks came at the Delphi ruins, where habituated birds flicked among the crowds, attending mud nests built right on various temples and store houses.

EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea)

One near where we found our White-backed Woodpecker was a study in frustration; it always seemed to be on the wrong side of the branch! Fortunately, we found another on Mount Parnassos that proved more obliging.

Certhiidae (Treecreepers)

SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)

One crawled up the trunks of several trees near the track up to the Dadia vulture blind, singing loudly.

Troglodytidae (Wrens)

EURASIAN WREN (Troglodytes troglodytes)

One territorial bird near the summit of Mount Parnassos crept around on a craggy hillside, occasionally popping out to a bramble stalk or ledge to show itself as it sang. It took some patience, but we all eventually got a look.

Cinclidae (Dippers)

WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus)

Arg! We came SO CLOSE to getting everybody a good look when one appeared in the stream just upriver from where we all stood on a bridge near the parking lot at Mount Olympus. Unfortunately, as we jockeyed for better viewing positions, it jumped up and flew off downstream, never to be seen again.

Sturnidae (Starlings)

EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris) [N]

Common throughout, including many busily provisioning nests throughout Fanari.

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)

MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus)

A couple of these big spotty thrushes seen on Mount Parnassos, including one that returned again and again to the end of a snag lying along the edge of the forest. This species is larger and grayer than the next, with round (rather than arrowhead-shaped) spots.

SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos)

We heard the mockingbird-like song of this species at one of our spots west of Delphi, and had poor views of one singing from a treetop in a property at the edge of the town on a pre-breakfast walk the next morning. This species is smaller and browner than the previous, with arrowhead-shaped spots on the underparts.

EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)

Regular throughout, though never in big numbers. Those on the grounds of the Acropolis in Athens and in the Dadia forest probably attracted the most attention.

Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)

SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)

Small numbers on scattered days, with especially nice looks at one hunting from the lower boughs of pines in a pocket park near our Delphi hotel each morning. We had others on the Evros delta, around Lake Kerkini and on Mount Olympus.

EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)

One of these little charmers distracted us from our first Eurasian Hoopoes when it flitted through some bushes just beyond the fence around the Acropolis. We saw others on Mount Olympus and Mount Parnassos.

COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos)

Another common species that was far more often heard than seen. We had wonderful views of one singing in pine tree near the parking lot at Dadia, shortly after we arrived, with others seen around Lake Kerkini and at the Chimarros quarry.

RED-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula parva) [b]

A drab female in poplars at the edge of a Fanari campground had us scratching our heads initially. Fortunately, she was calling, which helped!

BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)

Very common on the open, stony parts of Mount Parnassos (i.e. around the ski stations), where they bounced among the boulders with those rufous tails quivering.

RUFOUS-TAILED ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola saxatilis)

We'd just about given up in our search for this highland species and were heading back to the bus when we tried "one more time", playing its mellow song into the teeth of the gale. We got a wind-blown response, and some fine spotting by Dawn netted us good scope views of one tucked into a shelter spot on a big boulder.

BLUE ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola solitarius)

Our first was a lovely blue male singing from a crag in Iasmos gorge, but our best views came around Delphi, where they were regular on television aerials and at the ruins site.

WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra)

One hunting from a hedge as we drove into the Alyki saltworks was the only one we found -- and it was a bit of a challenge to see from the bus.

EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola rubicola)

A male perched on bushes along a fence line on Mount Parnassos was the last new bird of the trip -- nice spotting, Ed!

NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)

Regular on the scree slopes of Mount Parnassos's highest points, seen as we scoured the ski stations for birds; those white tail bases were certainly eye-catching! We could hear their scratchy little songs even above the incessant winds.

EASTERN BLACK-EARED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe melanoleuca)

A male singing from a rock near the Dadia parking lot entertained us while we waited for the nightingale to make a reappearance. We saw others at the Porto Lagos saltworks and around Delphi.

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [N]

Abundant throughout, seen on every day of the tour -- including many nesting under roof tiles in just about every village we visited.

SPANISH SPARROW (Passer hispaniolensis)

Most common in the middle of the trip, particularly around Fanari and Lithotopos, where they were noisy "basement dwellers" in nearly every White Stork nest we passed. We had good comparisons between this southern species and the ubiquitous House Sparrows in several places.

EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)

Far less common than the previous two species, with a few seen around our Soufli hotel and others in Lithotopos and around Lake Kerkini. Their little black "ear muff" quickly distinguishes them from other Passer sparrows.

ROCK SPARROW (Petronia petronia)

It took us a while to locate them -- the cliff on which they nest west of Delphi is huge and full of cracks -- but we finally spotted several pairs when they perched on closer boulders. This species has also been called Rock Petronia (and still is in some books).

Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)

GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)

One waggled its way along the stream bed at the Iasmos gorge and a couple of others repeatedly distracted us as we searched for White-throated Dipper on Mount Olympus. This is the longest-tailed of Europe's wagtails.

WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (FLAVA) (Motacilla flava flava)

Two seen around a building at a roadside stop on our way into Fanari. This subspecies has a gray head with a bold white eyebrow and dark lores -- quite different than the next subspecies. They breed further north in Europe and Scandinavia, so were undoubtedly migrants.

WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (FELDEGG) (Motacilla flava feldegg)

This black-capped subspecies is the one that breeds in Greece. We saw them striding around at the Evros delta and around the Alyki Lagoon.

WHITE WAGTAIL (WHITE-FACED) (Motacilla alba alba)

Small numbers seen on the Evros delta, around Lake Kerkini and in the parking lot at Mount Olympus, but our best views probably came right outside our hotel in Delphi, where we regularly came upon one waggling its way along the gutters.

TAWNY PIPIT (Anthus campestris)

A couple on the Evros delta, with another at the ski resort on Mount Parnassos, found as we searched for Yellow-billed Chough. These pipits are quite plain, with little streaking above or below.

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)

COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)

First seen in Dadia forest, though far more common on the second half of the trip.

EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)

Also first seen in Dadia forest -- when Ed spotted one in a treetop -- but far more common on the second half of the tour, where their wheezing calls were a regular part of the tour soundtrack. Those in the pines at the municipal park in Lithotopos were particularly obliging.

EURASIAN LINNET (Linaria cannabina)

We caught glimpses of a few bounding past in Iasmos gorge, but our best views came at that ridiculously windy ski station on Mount Parnassos, where we found a few gleaning weed seeds from among the gravelly scree.

EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)

Seen most days of the tour, often in small, tinkling flocks. We had especially nice looks at some around the buildings at the Dadia Raptor Center and in the town of Agioi Theodori (where we found our Lesser Kestrels).

EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)

A singing male near the ski resort turnoff on Mount Parnassos showed nicely, singing for a long time near the top of a big Grecian fir.

Emberizidae (Old World Buntings)

BLACK-HEADED BUNTING (Emberiza melanocephala)

Only a handful had returned to their summer breeding grounds around the Evros delta and Porto Lagos salt pans, but fortunately the handsome males were belting out their songs from the very tops of bushes, making them easy to find.

CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)

These big, streaky buntings were widespread but never common, found in twos and threes at various locations across much of our tour route. We certainly got to know their jumbled song well!

CIRL BUNTING (Emberiza cirlus)

Most common in the conifer forest around Dadia, where we watched one stripe-faced male singing from a perch near the top of a big pine. We saw others at higher elevations later in the tour, including at Iasmos Gorge, and on Mount Olympus and Mount Parnassos.

ORTOLAN BUNTING (Emberiza hortulana)

One sang (and sang and sang) from the top of a burned pine snag in the Dadia forest, giving us a great chance to study it in the scopes. We saw others on the scrubby hillside at the Chimarros quarry and in the Iasmos gorge.

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MAMMALS

EUROPEAN RED SQUIRREL (Sciurus vulgaris)

One in the municipal park at Lithochoro, seen on our pre-breakfast outing there, with another in Delphi on another pre-breakfast walk.

NUTRIA (Myocastor coypus)

Depressingly common in wetlands along the coast -- and at Lake Kerkini. This species was introduced to Europe for the fur trade, with animals released once that proved unprofitable. They've become a huge invasive problem across the continent.

COMMON JACKAL (Canis aureus)

One healthy-looking individual bounded away from the road down to the Ptelea Lagoon, then stopped briefly for a better look at our vans. It was certainly very wary!

ROE DEER (Capreolus capreolus)

Our first was just a head -- or even just two ears -- poking up from a crop field near Vrysika, and some of the gang spotted another while we searched for Cretzschmar's Buntings on our final afternoon.

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HERPS

TESSELLATED WATER SNAKE (Natrix tessellata)

One clamped in the beak of a Gray Heron was fighting for its life, but was probably doomed.

SPUR-THIGHED (GREEK) TORTOISE (Testudo graeca)

A couple along the edge of one of the pedestrian boulevards in Athens, conveniently close to a nearby Marginated Tortoise for easy comparison. The single scute over the tail helps to distinguish it from Herrmann's Tortoise while the lack of a flared "skirt" of scutes helps distinguish it from the next species.

MARGINATED TORTOISE (Testudo marginata)

A few around Athens, including one wandering along a trail on Philopappos Hill. The flared "skirt" on the back end of this big tortoise helps to distinguish it from the previous species.

MARSH FROG (Pelophylax ridibundus)

Quite common around Lake Kerkini, where we saw and heard many calling from vegetated ponds and canals.

ERHARD'S WALL LIZARD (Podarcis erhardii)

This was the stripey lizard we saw on Mount Parnassos.

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ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Donna provided this list of butterflies, dragonflies and damselflies seen on the tour:

Butterflies

• Eastern Bath White

• Eastern Dappled White

• Large White

• Cabbage White

• Balkan Marbled White

• Eurasian Clouded Yellow

• Meadow Brown

• Lattice Brown

• Small Heath

• Brown Argus

• Ilex Hairstreak

• Holly Blue

• Common Blue

• Small Copper

• European Beak

• Delattin’s Grayling

• Southern Comma

• Lesser Spotted Fritillary

• Queen of Spain Fritillary

• Red Admiral

• Painted Lady

Dragonflies and damselflies

• Broad Scarlet

• Scarce Chaser

• European Bluetail

Totals for the tour: 183 bird taxa and 4 mammal taxa