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Lough Leane in Killarney National Park (Photo by guide Karen McEneaney)
The tour started out nearly pouring rain all day, a guide's nightmare. But knowing that "it doesn't rain in a pub," our options were good. Despite this initial setback, our spirits remained strong, and it paid off. At our first major birding destination, the rain stopped long enough for our group to get three separate and sensational views of a Red Grouse. We observed a male twice in flight and once head-periscoping above the heather. Then the downpour started. The Red Grouse was our first bit of our good luck, or "adh mor ort" as they say in Irish. Although it continued to rain, the day just got better with the presence of a rainbow and an unplanned visit to the Dublin coast and finally a visit to a very accommodating pub in Newtown Kennedy. Although we braved the rain our first day, the sun (or "grian") was on our side and came out quite often --almost every day (quite uncommon in Ireland and frankly quite shocking!).
We ended up with 96 species of birds and nine species of mammals, about par for this particular May tour. Highlight birds included nice views of Red Kites circulating overhead and Common Cuckoos calling and defending territories. We had super close views of White-throated Dippers and a Greater Whitethroat. The seabird watching was sensational -- we watched Northern Gannets plunge-diving, and tens of thousands of seabirds bringing in food to young and mates. Other interesting behaviors including the acrobatic movements and tumbles of Red-billed Choughs, Hooded Crows flying up and dropping clams to the ground to open them up, and copy-cat behavior of a Herring Gull trying to do the same thing to a golf ball.
The hidden secrets of this tour are that we travel Ireland off the beaten path and before the tourist season begins, and we hang around people from Ireland. We had some of the best traditional Irish music found anywhere in Ireland this time of year. Other than birds, the pubs are the keystone to any tour of Ireland. These were as varied as the music, from conversational pubs to singing pubs and those strictly instrumental. The instrumental sessions varied from Uilleann pipes and accordions to banjos and guitars to fiddles. We passed dozens of ancient castles, round towers, abbeys, stone bridges, round forts, passage graves, and standing stones. History is written everywhere in Ireland, and nature is right out the window or doorstep. We visited two national parks -- Wicklow Mountains and Killarney -- and witnessed some of the prettiest landscapes and seascapes Ireland has to offer.
In summary, it was a quintessential Ireland tour involving great craic ("great fun") with a combination of super weather, ample birds, quaint pubs, fabulous countryside, memorable traditional Irish music, not to mention delicious gourmet food. But it is the Irish people that make this tour so memorable with their warm and welcoming hospitality. Thank you for allowing us the opportunity to show you Ireland as we know it, and we hope to see you again in future Field Guides tours.
In the meantime, Slan Abhaile (Safe home)!
Terry and Karen McEneaney
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
GRAYLAG GOOSE (Anser anser)
One of the many wonderful Traditional Irish music sessions on the tour. The music was sensational. (Photo by guide Karen McEneaney)
MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor) COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)
GADWALL (Anas strepera)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
TUFTED DUCK (Aythya fuligula)
GREATER SCAUP (Aythya marila)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus) [I]
WILLOW PTARMIGAN (RED GROUSE) (Lagopus lagopus scotica) [E]
Gaviidae (Loons)
Common Murres on their nesting cliffs (Photo by participant David Baker)
COMMON LOON (Gavia immer) Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
NORTHERN FULMAR (Fulmarus glacialis)
Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets)
NORTHERN GANNET (Morus bassanus)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
GREAT CORMORANT (NORTH ATLANTIC) (Phalacrocorax carbo carbo)
EUROPEAN SHAG (Phalacrocorax aristotelis)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
Originally these were horse and buggy trails. Today they are paved roads, but nevertheless these are mesmerizing travel paths that take us through one of the world's most beautiful landscapes (Ireland). The famed limestone natural area, "The Burren," is in the background. (Photo by guide Terry McEneaney)
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta) Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)
RED KITE (Milvus milvus)
COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
WATER RAIL (Rallus aquaticus)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)
Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
EURASIAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus ostralegus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
Gray Wagtail at Glendalough (Photo by participant David Baker)
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos) COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
WHIMBREL (EUROPEAN) (Numenius phaeopus phaeopus)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
BLACK-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa limosa)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
Watching Red Grouse on our first morning, a drizzly one! (Photo by guide Karen McEneaney)
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago) Alcidae (Auks, Murres, and Puffins)
COMMON MURRE (Uria aalge)
RAZORBILL (Alca torda)
BLACK GUILLEMOT (Cepphus grylle)
ATLANTIC PUFFIN (Fratercula arctica)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (Rissa tridactyla)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
MEW GULL (EUROPEAN) (Larus canus canus)
What makes our Field Guides tours to Ireland unique is that we travel off the beaten path, in small groups, and visit places few large tours get to see. (Photo by guide Terry McEneaney)
HERRING GULL (EUROPEAN) (Larus argentatus argenteus) LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL (GRAELLSII) (Larus fuscus graellsii)
GREAT BLACK-BACKED GULL (Larus marinus)
COMMON TERN (COMMON) (Sterna hirundo hirundo)
ARCTIC TERN (Sterna paradisaea)
SANDWICH TERN (EURASIAN) (Thalasseus sandvicensis sandvicensis)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)
Enjoying another pub music session (Photo by participant Frances Dupont)
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto) Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)
Apodidae (Swifts)
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)
RED-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)
Inch Strand (Photo by participant David Baker)
EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula) ROOK (Corvus frugilegus)
HOODED CROW (Corvus cornix)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Alaudidae (Larks)
SKY LARK (Alauda arvensis)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
BARN SWALLOW (WHITE-BELLIED) (Hirundo rustica rustica)
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
European Robin (Photo by participant David Baker)
COAL TIT (BRITISH) (Periparus ater hibernicus) [E] GREAT TIT (Parus major)
EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
EURASIAN WREN (BRITISH) (Troglodytes troglodytes indigenus)
Cinclidae (Dippers)
WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus hibernicus) [E]
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf-Warblers)
WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus)
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
Acrocephalidae (Reed-Warblers and Allies)
Glendalough panorama (Photo by participant David Baker)
SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus) Locustellidae (Grassbirds and Allies)
LANCEOLATED WARBLER (Locustella lanceolata)
Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers)
BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
GREATER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia communis)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola rubicola)
NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)
Hooded Crow at Killarney (Photo by participant David Baker)
SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos) MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
Prunellidae (Accentors)
DUNNOCK (Prunella modularis)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
WHITE WAGTAIL (BRITISH) (Motacilla alba yarrellii)
MEADOW PIPIT (Anthus pratensis)
ROCK PIPIT (Anthus petrosus)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella)
REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)
EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)
EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)
EURASIAN LINNET (Carduelis cannabina)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
OLD WORLD RABBIT (Oryctolagus cuniculus)
NORTHERN (BLUE) HARE (Lepus timidus)
BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN (Tursiops truncatus)
STOAT (SHORT-TAILED WEASEL) (Mustela erminea)
EUROPEAN RIVER OTTER (Lutra lutra)
HARBOR SEAL (Phoca vitulina)
GRAY SEAL (Halichoerus grypus)
SIKA DEER (Cervus nippon)
RED DEER (Cervus elaphus)
Totals for the tour: 96 bird taxa and 9 mammal taxa