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One of the most memorable avian experiences of the tour was watching three different male MacQueen's Bustards dancing their hearts out to try and impress nearby females in the Negev Desert. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Our second running of Field Guides’ Israel tour was yet another success. This spring came on the heels of a very rainy winter, which had transformed the oft-barren desert landscapes to green wonderlands of life, and this had a strong influence on a few of our experiences. First of all, much of our time in these greened-up desert landscapes were characterized by vibrant shows of life, especially of bugs and birds. Perhaps the most noticeable rain-tied event that we witnessed was the Painted Lady butterfly extravaganza. We witnessed tens of thousands migrating on a couple of days as we travelled around the Arava Valley, and found uncountable numbers of their caterpillars feeding on the ephemeral greenery in the usually brown plains (we even found a couple that were in chrysalises!). The green desert also meant a re-distribution of migrant birds from where they normally are. We encountered greater numbers (and perhaps slightly greater diversity) than usual in the desert habitats, but it also meant that some of the classic migrant traps around Eilat weren’t as attractive to migrants as they are in many years, since many birds weren’t in dire need of their oasis effects. Some miscellaneous numbers to show the diversity of forms that this tiny nugget of land can provide: We did exceptionally well on Sylvia warblers, with TEN species of this skulking genus (including great views of most), Wheatears were represented with seven species (counting Blackstart), and we had eleven taxa of wagtails and pipits (three of which were various yellow wagtail taxa).
This year we started off by heading east to the Dead Sea, this time via the Jerusalem Bird Observatory, smack dab in the middle of Jerusalem. This 1.3 acre postage stamp of land is a great haven for migrants, though we were treated (subjected?) to rain for our morning, and so we didn’t see many migrants (though Lesser Whitethroats in the hand were educational!). That said, the White-throated Kingfisher, close European Greenfinches, Chaffinch, and point-blank Eurasian Jay were a good way to get our birding started in this part of the world. We continued to the Dead Sea, and an afternoon outing at Kalya was already going well (including Sand Partridge) before we started seeing the storks arriving. We watched several thousand storks come out of the mountains to the south, and head north over our heads. Whether they were in big wheeling masses kettling to try and catch the final thermals from the evening sun, or the sky high battalions that had already attained sufficient altitude, this event was legitimately awe-inspiring. This passage was overwhelmingly comprised of White Storks, but there were indeed some Black Storks mixed in as well.
Before our trip south to the main event, we had another day and a half to explore the Dead Sea region. The myriad of highlights included a couple of desert wadi excursions which produced a showy Striolated Bunting, a vocal Barbary Falcon flying around overhead, and a spectacular visual and audiological experience with Cyprus Warbler. Wetlands produced the locally scarce African Swamphen, a dozen Ferruginous Ducks, and the range restricted and smart-looking Dead Sea Sparrow alongside Clamorous Reed-Warblers. We also had some more migration fun, most notably several hundred Common Cranes flying over us at one point.
We then went to the very south of Israel, and spent the next several days based in Eilat, at the northern tip of the Red Sea’s Gulf of Aqaba. We used our well-provisioned and positioned hotel as the launching pad for our exploration of the Arava Valley, investigating its wide array of habitats from lush deserts, wadis, and kibbutzim, to its mountains, parks, and waterfront. Good Steppe Buzzard and Steppe Eagle migration events in the mountains blew our minds, while seemingly everywhere we ran into wagtails and wheatears stopping briefly on their northern journeys. Eye-popping Arabian Green Bee-eaters and Palestine Sunbirds were our resident companions at many stops, and Holland Park provided the very social Arabian Babbler, as well as scarcer migrants like Subalpine Warbler and Rueppell’s Warbler. The International Birding and Research Center gave us a regionally rare Pygmy Cormorant, unconscionably easy to see Little Crakes, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, Bluethroats hopping around at our feet, and more. Seawatches at North Beach, though early in the season, gave us Parasitic Jaeger, many migrant ducks, Greater Sand-Plover, and the very range restricted White-eyed Gull. The nearby canals provided Temminck’s Stint, Spotted Redshank, and a very unseasonal White-winged Tern, as well as a glut of the more common migrants. Scrub Warbler, Desert Finch, Pale Rockfinch, Egyptian Vultures, Masked Shrike, and Eurasian Wryneck were also targets that we saw quite well in the south. As is often the case, we even had a couple of rarities, with two each of Richard’s Pipit and Black Scrub-Robin!
After a work week length sojourn in Eilat, it was time to head north again, this time deeper into the Negev Desert. Once north of the magnificent Ramon Crater, we started picking up species that are absent or more difficult to see in the south, such as Syrian Woodpecker, Great Spotted Cuckoo, and Great Tit. Hundreds of Greater Short-toed Larks were flying over the verdant Meishar Plains, and Ben Gurion’s tomb and the Ovdat Gorge provided Griffon Vultures soaring over and Alpine Swifts careening around the canyon.
The Negev and the Nitzana area provided us with some real desert highlights, the most memorable of which may have been the displaying MacQueen’s Bustards dancing away the morning while we watched all a-giggle. The bustards weren’t all the desert had to offer though, as we saw hundreds of Spotted Sandgrouse flying around and landing at a watering hole, where they were joined briefly by a few Black-bellied Sandgrouse. That very same morning we were also treated to a pair of Cream-colored Coursers, the unique long-legged desert-specialist shorebird that can blend into its habitat seamlessly. Our final morning was spent tracking down the special desert subspecies (Lilith Owl) of Little Owl before our last birding of the trip at Har Amasa, which provided us a splendid ending to our tour, with Blue Rock Thrushes, Cretzschmar’s Bunting, Rock Sparrow, singing Spectacled Warblers, Lesser Kestrel, Long-legged Buzzard, Finsch’s Wheatears, and a glut of other non-avian critters against a perfect semi-desert backdrop.
From the rich Judean Hills to the barren Dead Sea canyons, all the way down to the stark but ephemerally lush deserts of the Arava Valley, the migrant traps of Eilat, and the spectacular scenery of the Ramon Crater and Negev Desert, our trip had an unparalleled mix of awe-inspiring scenery, fun camaraderie, and of course, great birds. Eran and I wish to thank you all for your companionship on this delightful voyage, and we hope to see you in the field again!
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Sandgrouse are a group of birds that excel in the dry deserts of southern Israel, and we had excellent luck with Spotted Sandgrouse this year. Here a large flock of them flies by us as they contemplate landing at a sewage pool for a morning drink (they did land shortly thereafter, much to our delight). Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
The desert was preposterously green in Israel this spring, thanks to winter rains. Here the HaMeishar Plain, which is often a mostly brown landscape, stretches green into the distant desert hills. We found thousands of Painted Lady caterpillars in this greenery, as well as hundreds of birds including larks, pipits, and Pale Rockfinches. It's hard to convey just how atypically lush it was from this photo, but it gives a bit of a sense. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Cream-colored Courser, a truly iconic shorebird species of this region's deserts. We had good luck in encountering one fairly close to the road at Nitzana, and it stuck around for us to savor its uniqueness. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
This Greater Sand-Plover in stunning breeding plumage dropped onto the beach in front of us at North Beach while we were condicting a sea-watch one evening. Many birds are tired after crossing the Red Sea, and will put down in the first available piece of suitable habitat, which, for a plover, was almost at our feet. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
This is not just another gull! White-eyed Gull is endemic to the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden. Eilat is the northernmost point in its distribution, and an excellent place to see it, as they roost at various points along the waterfront. This young bird provided us with our closest views of the dozen or two individuals that we saw. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Part of the incredible spectacle of migrating White Storks we saw on our very first afternoon around the north end of the Dead Sea. The dark overcast background and late afternoon sunshine (not to mention the rainbows) made the viewing of this already memorable event that much sweeter. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Hen Harriers are one of the many species of raptors which pass through Israel in numbers every spring, and the agricultural fields in the Arava Valley provide a welcome respite from their over-desert passage to try their talons at hunting. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Griffon Vulture is widespread, but declining across most of its range, and it is endangered in Israel. Thankfully, there is a good program in place to monitor and protect the remaining bulk of the Israeli population. On our trip to the Ovdat gorge, we saw no fewer than seven wing-banded individuals, and we heard from the rangers about multiple active nests being monitored. Good signs all! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Arabian Babblers have a fascinating social structure. Here an adult (with the pale iris) has come in to check us out, and a dark-eyed juvenile has curiosly followed. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
The marshes around the Dead Sea are very special habitats, and they are also very vulnerable to change. These reedbeds and pools are home to a great diversity of species that otherwise wouldn't be found in this region. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Wryneck is always a much sought after species, and with their bizarre characteristics why not!? Southern Israel in the spring is an excellent place to connect with the species as it passes from Africa to Eurasia each spring. We encountered them in a wide variety of habitats, including feeding on the ground in the desert with larks, but our most memorable were in an oasis-like city park in Eilat, where we had two or three individuals one morning. We even got to see some intra-species interactions as they jockeyed for sidewalk space! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Subalpine Warbler is a scarce migrant in the Eilat area, with usually just a handful seen each spring. This was a banner spring for them in Eilat, and we saw at least three individuals, including this very cooperative male at Holland Park. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
For the second year in a row we had a great experience with the very range restricted local migrant Cyprus Warbler. This time it was in the more appropriate habitat of a remote desert wadi in the Dead Sea region, and it was exceptionally cooperative. We even got to hear its chattery, disjointed song over and over. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
One of a pair of the Black Scrub-Robins, formerly known as Black Bush Robins, at Samar. Their terrestrial, tail-cocking ways and cuckoo-like white-spotted undertail make for a much more interesting bird than many photos can convey. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Common Nightingale is an iconic bird in Europe on the strength of its evocative song. However, most people don't think about what they do during the ten months of the year when the song isn't present in Europe. They're actually long distance migrants who winter in Southern Africa, and pass through Israel in large numbers on their way north every spring. We were on the early side for big numbers, but we did find this confiding individual in the Eilat area. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
This Little Crake was absurdly obliging on our first evening in Eilat. We didn't even need to be in the viewing hide for it to nonchalantly stroll out of the reeds and trot in front of us. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Cretzschmar's Bunting is an early season migrant whose breeding range is centered around Turkey (and adjacent Middle East and Greece). We got some stellar views of orange-faced males in several locations during the tour. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
A striking rainbow punctuated our big migration spectacle on day one, putting a cap on a glorious first afternoon. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
MAMMALS
Desert Mantis are one of the great examples of desert camouflage in the animal kingdom, but thanks to some vigilant staring at the ground, we found three of them at Holland Park (potentially of two different species)- a great non-avian treat! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Other species of interest seen but not included on the above checklist were:
Baluch Rock Gecko (Shezaf Nature Reserve)
Desert Mantis (3+ of these cryptic insects at Holland Park)
Lionfish (Taking shelter in some seaweed just off shore at North Beach- no immersion necessary for us!)
Vagrant Emperor (The common dragonfly we saw all over)
Egyptian Gobi (The amorous grasshoppers stacked on each other in the Acacia grove on our Ovda Valley day)
Jumping-Spider sp. (At Har Amasa, a stunning individual which so far has defied identification by us)
Totals for the tour: 195 bird taxa and 7 mammal taxa