This was our third iteration of the tour. it ran smoothly and we did well despite some pretty wet weather. We began around Tokyo in heavy rain, going out to a site for the rare Marsh Grassbird with Ochre-rumped (Japanese Reed) Bunting as a bonus, and a wet and windy trip to Funabashi which got us some very nice shorebirds including the scarce osculans race of Eurasian Oystercatcher, Siberian (Lesser) Sand Plover and Sanderling.
Next day we made a repeat trip to the grassbird site for much better views, and got a Greater Painted Snipe as well, then heard about a Japanese Sparrowhawk nest at a park en route to our next stop, Shiga-Kogen in the mountains near Nagano. We did not know exactly where the nest was, but the new dictum of "find the photographer, find the bird" worked well, and we got great views of the female, being harassed by Azure-winged magpies.
Shiga-Kogen was a good area. We had to work hard for some of the birds but Daurian Redstart, Russet Sparrow, Brown-headed Thrush and a very fortunate sighting of a responsive Siberian Thrush, Japanese Yellow Bunting and Grey Bunting, Eastern Crowned and Japanese Leaf Warblers were among the highlights here. We came back down via the highest road in Japan, through some spectacular montane forest, and stopped near Karuizawa for Green Pheasant and unexpected Chestnut-eared Bunting.
Next came the overnight boat trip to Miyakejima in the Izu Islands, where it was very windy and overcast but did not turn into rain until we had sailed again on the return. Izu Thrush and Izu Leaf Warbler showed well, and Styan's (Pleske's) Grasshopper Warbler was great, whilst the rare Japanese Wood Pigeon was heard. The endangered Owston's Tit gave good views, and a nice bonus was hundreds of Streaked Shearwaters from the boat on the way back, plus a surprise flock of 40+ Bonin Petrel for those diehards who stayed on deck.
The Ryukyu Islands (Nansei Shoto) were next, starting on Amami where we saw Amami (Owston's) Woodpecker at a nest besieged by Chinese photographers, heard Ruddy Kingfisher calling, and both heard and saw Whistling (Ryukyu) Green Pigeon with its atmospheric and beautiful flute-like song on the first afternoon. That night in the rain we had our first attempt at seeing Ryukyu Scops Owl, which showed briefly but got scared off, but no sign of Amami Black Rabbit or Amami Woodcock. Happily, next night we saw them both in dryer conditions, doing much better thanks to the mongoose busters eradication program. Jun found us a super Ryukyu Giant Rat up a small tree and the small hopping rodents were I think Ryukyu Spiny Rat, both of great interest but elusive. A terrific rare frog was Ishikawa's frog in a tree hole, a large species mottled with green and black and a very pleasing find. The only snakes we saw were an akamata and then what proved to be a Pryer's keelback in the water near a swordtail newt.
The striking endemic Lidth's Jay was being rather furtive, no doubt breeding, but we got some good views, and tried various areas for Amami Thrush without success, though Ryukyu Minivet showed, well as did Ryukyu (Amami) Robin and Japanese Paradise-Flycatcher.
Okinawa produced some very wet conditions which made things hard, but we got great views of Okinawa Rail, excellent encounters with Okinawa Woodpecker and two nests, eventually good looks for most at Okinawa Robin, Eastern Reef Egret and Japanese Sparrowhawk at a lunch stop, and Cinnamon Bittern in heavy rain at Kin rice paddies, though our Laughing Gull twitch was a failure despite it being there the day before. Owling was a bust due to the rain but we did well for frogs!
Finally it was time for wonderful Hokkaido, where birding at a park near Kushiro gave us Sakhalin Leaf Warbler, Eurasian Treecreeper, Eurasian Nuthatch and the white-headed nominate race of Long-tailed Tit. Red-crowned Crane showed well en route, and Notsuke Peninsula was not the bleak wasteland it is in winter, with flowers this time and some of the migrants back, including a good range of shorebirds and more White-tailed Eagles. We visited the minshuku where Blakiston's Fish Owl comes to feed from a fish-stocked pond in the stream outside, and we were lucky, as this night an adult came in at 1930 and caught fish several times. One of the great birds, just so huge.
Next morning, Shiretoko Pass was closed due to ice and snow, and our bear boat trip also cancelled due to the strong wind, so we detoured some way south to cross to the north shore of the peninsula. Red-crowned Crane showed well as did White-tailed Eagle, and a visit to the amazing Montbell sports clothing store was very popular. I got a terrific rain jacket just in time for the boat trip next day!
Next morning we saw Long-tailed Rosefinch and Latham's Snipe at Meiji Park, then headed down to Ochiishi for the 2-hour boat trip round two nearby islands, in dire foggy and showery but mercifully calm conditions. This trip scored a middling 5 on my PMI or Pelagic Misery Index, being as always cold and uncomfortable, foggy and wet but with no spray and a calm sea preventing a higher PMI ranking. I was anxious we might see nothing with 30m visibility, but alcids were terrific; we had 5 species, including multiple Spectacled Guillemot, many Rhinoceros Auklet, Common Murre and 5 Ancient Murrelet, with the highlight being incredible views of 4 Tufted Puffin sat on the sea and nothing short of a miracle in the fog; Red-faced Cormorant sat on a rock stack was also discernible through gaps in the fog, and we had fantastic views of 2 Sea Otters.
This year we were slightly too early for both Middendorff’s and Sakhalin Grasshopper Warblers; it was a late spring, but Latham’s Snipe showed well and was both seen and heard in display, Sakhalin and Eastern Crowned warblers showed well and were seen singing, Long-tailed Rosefinch was seen at two sites, and Masked Bunting was a nice find.
This basically concluded our very enjoyable and successful third iteration of the Field Guides spring trip to Japan, with the revised itinerary working out well. My thanks to the group for good company, good humor, enthusiasm and good spotting, and to Ruth at Field Guides and Sue, Rowan and Jun at Sicklebill Safaris who handled the logistics. Particular thanks to my local co-leader Jun Matsui, who handled driving, packing bags and interpreting meals and food packages very nicely as well as helping with the bird guiding. JAL were a terrific airline, with fast and efficient check-in using me as the helpless tourist so we could do a group check, no baggage hassles, punctual flights and marvelous politeness so sadly missing elsewhere these days. Why not join us for 2025? I am already looking forward to it in one of my favorite countries.
ITINERARY 2024
Day 1 Mon May 13 Ukishima Marsh 0930-1030/ Funabashi Sambanze Bay 1430-1530. Heavy rain. O/n Nikko Narita
Day 2 Tues May 14 Ukishima Marsh/ Gion Park/Shiga-Kogen O/n Shiga-Kogen
Day 3 Wed May 15 Shiga-Kogen area, overcast. O/n Shiga-Kogen
Day 4 Thurs May 16 Shiga-Kogen then over the highest road in Japan and down to the Nagakura Shrine and Kaikoen Castle then to Tokyo. Fine conditions. Bags at hotel then to Ferry Terminal for 2230 departure for Miyakejima.
Day 5 Fri May 17 0500 arrive Miyakejima/ Akakokko Reserve 0545-0700/ Cape Izu/ Akakokko Reserve. Overcast and quite windy, heavy rain as we departed at 1330. Tokyo 1930.
Day 6 Sat May 18 To Haneda for 1100 to Amami 1400 on at Amami Nature Forest 1530-1730 and 1930-2100 . Overcast with heavy rain later. O/n Amami
Day 7 Sun May 19 Amami Nature Forest 0745-1100 / pm Amami Gunto NP 1500-1700/ Mt Yuwan Trail and night drive 2000-210O/on Amami
Day 8 Mon May 20 D 0800 for Naze Airport/ Yoron transit/ Naze on Okinawa/ Yanbaru Ada Gardens area and o/n.
Day 9 Tues May 21 0530 Ada Gardens area/ Benoki Dam/ pm to Cape Hedo 1530-1730. Spotlighting 1930-2030 in very wet conditions. O/n Ada Gardens.
Day 10 Wed May 22 Benoki Dam till 1100/ Hiji Waterfalls/ Kin paddyfields 1500-1600 o/n Naha.
Day 11 Thurs May 23 D)900 for Haneda then tom Kushiro 1330. Kushiro Marsh 1430-1700, O/n Kushiro
Day 12 Fri May 24 Kushiro Forest Park/ Teshikaga/Rausu area/ O/n Rausu
Day 13 Sat May 25 Shiretoko Peninsula in icy and windy conditions/ Notsuke Peninsula/ o/n Nemuro
Day 14 Meiji Park/ Cape Nosappu in calm conditions/ Onnemoto Bird Hide/ pm Furen tram-track footpath exploration. O/n Nemuro
Day 15 Mon May 27 Meiji Park Nemuro 0730-0815/ Ochiishi boat trip 0930-1215 Fog and rain/ Otowa bridge area O/n Kushiro
Day 16 Tues May 28 Nemuro to Kushiro then flight to Haneda for onward connections or Express Bus to Narita for flights home.
Sicklebill Tokyo and Topaz May 2024
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)
Some late migrants at Notsuke and a male at Furen.
FALCATED DUCK (Mareca falcata)
These were a big surprise at Notsuke, with 12 birds including some of the beautiful males with the strange shaggy flat green head and falcate (sickle-shaped) tertials.
EURASIAN WIGEON (Mareca penelope)
Some late migrants at Notsuke and Furen.
EASTERN SPOT-BILLED DUCK (Anas zonorhyncha)
Small numbers from Honshu.
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
A few from Notsuke and Nemuro.
NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)
Late migrants at Notsuke and Furen.
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)
A single male of the European species was at Furen amongst other late migrant waterfowl; confusingly still called Green-winged Teal in Clements even though it's the nominate which is Eurasian Teal not the American version, and is split by IOC.
TUFTED DUCK (Aythya fuligula)
8 at Meiji Park in Nemuro.
GREATER SCAUP (Aythya marila)
A few late birds on Hokkaido as we came towards Furen.
HARLEQUIN DUCK (Histrionicus histrionicus)
About 10 off Cape Nosappu and Tom and Kristine saw 2 at Rausu.
GREEN PHEASANT (Phasianus versicolor versicolor) [E]
Wonderful looks at two fine males near Karuizawa.
RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena)
10 off Cape Nosappu and Onnemoto were unexpected, some well into summer dress too.
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
Widespread in the urban areas.
BLACK WOOD-PIGEON (Columba janthina janthina) [E*]
Heard at the Nature Centre on Amami and glimpsed flying off; bad weather on Okinawa cost us views there.
ORIENTAL TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia orientalis orientalis)
Widespread and seen in small numbers on most days.
WHITE-BELLIED GREEN-PIGEON (Treron sieboldii sieboldii) [*]
Heard up at Shiga-Kogen but stayed out of sight.
WHISTLING GREEN-PIGEON (RYUKYU) (Treron formosae permagnus) [E]
Great views from Amami Nature Forest, with one eating fruits in the picnic area and others sat nearby and giving the lovely fluting call. Also seen nicely in flight from the viewpoint.
NORTHERN HAWK-CUCKOO (Hierococcyx hyperythrus) [*]
Heard on two days at Shiga-Kogen but could not be enticed to fly through. A heard lifer for Phil.
LESSER CUCKOO (Cuculus poliocephalus)
Heard at Shiga-Kogen and on Okinawa at the Laughing Gull harbour.
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)
Heard at Shiga-Kogen and seen nicely on Hokkaido.
ORIENTAL CUCKOO (Cuculus optatus)
Heard at Shiga-Kogen and seen at Meiji Park on Hokkaido.
WHITE-THROATED NEEDLETAIL (Hirundapus caudacutus)
A couple over at Kushiro Forest Park in rainy conditions.
PACIFIC SWIFT (Apus pacificus)
A couple seen on Miyakejima and near Notsuke.
OKINAWA RAIL (Gallirallus okinawae)
Calling well, but elusive this trip. We got a fine bird in the road near Ada, and then saw 5 individuals on the very wet day as we were driving the forest roads. Japan's only flightless bird and a rare species, threatened by mongoose and cats.
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
Just one seen at Ukishima Marsh.
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)
i think some saw this near Ukishima?
RUDDY-BREASTED CRAKE (Zapornia fusca) [*]
One was was heard calling at Ukishima on the very wet morning there.
RED-CROWNED CRANE (Grus japonensis)
Marvelous as ever, we had sundry fine views of pairs and single birds, with a wonderful adult with a juvenile right by the road on the last day, the baby two-three weeks old and gingery coloured. We saw another pair with a juvenile later that day too, and 9 adults all told as we came back to Kushiro. One of the most beautiful of all cranes, the tancho is an icon in Japan, a symbol of longevity and fidelity, and a rare species overall. In 2020, winter counts recorded more than 3,800 red-crowned cranes (adults and immatures), including about 1,900 in Japan, more than 1,600 in Korea and about 350 in China, with around 2,300 adults overall.
EURASIAN OYSTERCATCHER (FAR EASTERN) (Haematopus ostralegus osculans)
5 at Sambanze Bay; quite a rare and isolated taxon which would be worthy of taxonomic study.
BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola)
10 lovely summer plumage birds at Sambanze and 15 at Notsuke.
PACIFIC GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis fulva)
Just one at Ukishima Marsh.
SIBERIAN SAND-PLOVER (Anarhynchus mongolus)
One in summer plumage in the rain at Sambanze.
GREATER PAINTED-SNIPE (Rostratula benghalensis)
A great find in the rice paddies at Ukishima was a female of this cryptic species; it stayed quite well concealed but was visible in parts at times.
WHIMBREL (SIBERIAN) (Numenius phaeopus variegatus)
4 of the Siberian taxon at Sambanze.
BAR-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa lapponica)
30 at Sambanze and one at Notsuke.
AMAMI WOODCOCK (Scolopax mira) [E]
We left it till the very last moment on the second night's attempt, finally getting one just as the forest road ended and we were leaving. I can only assume they do not like rain, as on previous trips when dry they have been straightforward!
LATHAM'S SNIPE (Gallinago hardwickii)
One sat on phone wires near Furen with another flying there, then heard at Meiji park and one spotted sat on a fence by Kathy, distant but identifiable anyway. Happily it got better as we had several up on power poles and got to see them in display flight, with tail spread and making the strange raspy noise.
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago)
One at Ukishima Marsh was a surprise, the white trailing edge was obvious in flight.
TEREK SANDPIPER (Xenus cinereus)
One odd bird at Notsuke had a somewhat slender upturned bill, and dull yellowy legs; it looked quite bizarre.
GRAY-TAILED TATTLER (Tringa brevipes)
7 at Sambanze Bay included one with a white leg flag that means it was banded in Tokyo Bay; also seen at Nakagusuka Harbor and then at Notsuke and on rocks at Cape Nosappu.
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
Some saw one at Ukishima briefly.
SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus)
Likewise, a flyby at Ukishima.
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
Just one at Kin race paddies on Okinawa.
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
4 at Sambanze, a couple inland at Ukishima and 20 or so at Furen and Notsuke.
GREAT KNOT (Calidris tenuirostris)
Jun and Kathy saw one at Notsuke.
TEMMINCK'S STINT (Calidris temminckii)
One in the shorebird flock at Notsuke but quite mobile, so it was hard to locate in the scope; they look like small Common Sandpipers and have yellowy legs.
RED-NECKED STINT (Calidris ruficollis)
4 at Sambanze and 15 at Notsuke, some in the red-necked summer plumage.
SANDERLING (Calidris alba)
3 at Sambanze.
RHINOCEROS AUKLET (Cerorhinca monocerata)
One off Cape Nosappu, and then great views of about 20 on the Ochiishi pelagic trip; a very strange looking bird.
TUFTED PUFFIN (Fratercula cirrhata)
The star of the show and something of a miracle in the fog; we had lovely views of 4 sat on the water not long after the guide told us we were in the best area. We missed this on two previous trips so it's a hard one and was a lifer for Phil.
SPECTACLED GUILLEMOT (Cepphus carbo)
Distant views off Cape Nosappu, then up close and personal on the Ochiishi pelagic, with maybe 80 birds. We got to hear them giving a high-pitched trilling call from the cliffs at the tip of the promontory.
PIGEON GUILLEMOT (Cepphus columba)
One distant bird off Cape Nosappu.
COMMON MURRE (Uria aalge)
Great views of a few on the Ochiishi pelagic.
ANCIENT MURRELET (Synthliboramphus antiquus)
One off Cape Nosappu showed very nicely, then we had 5 on the Ochiishi pelagic.
BLACK-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (Rissa tridactyla)
One seen off Oshima as we were coming back into Tokyo from Miyake.
BLACK-TAILED GULL (Larus crassirostris)
One at Miyakejima, then one at Rausu, and about 25 off Notsuke where they seemed to be moving towards the mainland; 5 off Cape Nosappu then a couple of singles from Meiji Park and Ochiishi. I was quite surprised to see them on Hokkaido as they are scarce here in winter.
GLAUCOUS GULL (Larus hyperboreus)
Laurel spotted one immature going by at Notsuke; a late stayer, they are quite common here in winter.
LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons sinensis)
10 at Sambanze and 3 at Nakagusuku Harbor on Okinawa.
COMMON TERN (LONGIPENNIS) (Sterna hirundo longipennis)
Three distant terns from the Tokyo ferry were most likely this species, but left as tern sp.
ARCTIC LOON (Gavia arctica)
One in summer plumage off Notsuke, the white flank patch showing.
PACIFIC LOON (Gavia pacifica)
At least 3 on the Ochiishi pelagic. The white flank patch is a good field mark. There were also 3 diver sp. flying off Cape Nosappu which are either this or Arctic loon.
BLACK-FOOTED ALBATROSS (Phoebastria nigripes)
David saw one from the ferry back to Tokyo just after I left; a good find.
BONIN PETREL (Pterodroma hypoleuca)
A major surprise from the ferry back to Tokyo, a flock of about 40 were settled on the sea and flew up as we drew near. Kathy and I saw them well and a few others came up just as they were disappearing. Unexpected, but seems to have been an influx this year; it was a lifer for Phil. There was one later off Oshima too.
STREAKED SHEARWATER (Calonectris leucomelas)
Hundreds from the ferry back to Tokyo.
SHORT-TAILED SHEARWATER (Ardenna tenuirostris)
7 seen from the ferry back to Tokyo.
RED-FACED CORMORANT (Urile urile)
Another miracle from the Ochiishi pelagic when the fog cleared enough for the local guide to be able to point out 3 birds on a rock stack. The white breeding patch was a handy mark to pick them up against the dark rocks, and the red face showed well; a rare bird here with just a few pairs nesting.
PELAGIC CORMORANT (Urile pelagicus)
Small numbers off Rausu, Notsuke, Cape Nosappu and at Ochiishi; they look very slender in the water.
GREAT CORMORANT (EURASIAN) (Phalacrocorax carbo hanedae)
30 at Sambanze and 5 at a marsh on Northern Hokkaido.
JAPANESE CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax capillatus) [E]
One immature on rocks off Naha in Amami was much appreciated, then they proved to be quite common on the rocky costs of Hokkaido, with something like 400 estimated on the Ochiishi pelagic, with many nesting on the rock stacks there.
CINNAMON BITTERN (Ixobrychus cinnamomeus)
Those of us who braved the downpour were rewarded with good flight views of this at Kin rice paddies on Okinawa, briefly perching in a bush too. Uncommon and a good find.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Just one at Kin rice paddies.
PACIFIC REEF-HERON (Egretta sacra sacra)
One dark morph on rocks at a lunch stop on Okinawa was the only one of the trip, they seem curiously scarce here.
LITTLE EGRET (WESTERN) (Egretta garzetta garzetta)
5 at Kin rice paddies.
EASTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus coromandus)
One on Amami and one at Kin rice paddies on Okinawa.
GREAT EGRET (MODESTA) (Ardea alba modesta)
Seen on the first two days around Tokyo, but only one later on Okinawa.
MEDIUM EGRET (Ardea intermedia)
Seen around Tokyo, then on Amami and Okinawa in small numbers, max 3 birds.
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
Up to 10 around Tokyo and plentiful on Hokkaido around Notsuke.
ORIENTAL HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis ptilorhynchus)
One seen up at Shiga-Kogen was the only record.
JAPANESE SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter gularis)
A nesting female in a park at Gion was very nice, and being constantly mobbed by Azure-winged Magpies. A diminutive, rather damp looking male was seen near Kin on Okinawa, perched on electric wires in town, and was of the endemic race iwasakii.
BLACK KITE (BLACK-EARED) (Milvus migrans lineatus)
Small numbers on Hokkaido; rather different to Black Kite as more mottled, paler headed and with big white wing patches.
WHITE-TAILED EAGLE (Haliaeetus albicilla)
Some great views on Hokkaido at Rausu and then on the Notsuke Peninsula, a very striking species.
EASTERN BUZZARD (Buteo japonicus japonicus)
Just two on day 3 as we went to Shiga-Kogen.
RYUKYU SCOPS-OWL (Otus elegans elegans)
Heard each night on Amami, but the one I spotlit flew before we got a decent look at it. Heavy rain on Okinawa spoilt the chances there.
BLAKISTON'S FISH-OWL (Ketupa blakistoni)
The owl gods smiled on us as an terrific adult came to the stocked pond at 1930 and gave great views as it caught fish several times. We were worried it might be a small hours job but mercifully not the case. One of the birds of the trip for sure, as always, and arguably the biggest owl in the world.
RUDDY KINGFISHER (Halcyon coromanda) [*]
Heard on both Amami and Okinawa but did not come in.
CRESTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle lugubris)
One flew over at Kushiro Forest Park, the call curiously like that of a Great-spotted Woodpecker.
JAPANESE PYGMY WOODPECKER (Yungipicus kizuki)
Some nice views of this tiny bird from the park at Gion, Shiga-Kogen and Yanbaru on Okinawa. A near-endemic species too, otherwise only in Korea.
OKINAWA WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos noguchii) [E]
We did really well for this rarity, with one in flight by the hotel at Ada, two nesting at the Hiji Waterfall Trail and allowing very good looks, then 2 below Benoki Dam just before the rain began. It is Critically Endangered, with total numbers below 600 birds, and declining due to forest damage and disturbance.
WHITE-BACKED WOODPECKER (AMAMI) (Dendrocopos leucotos owstoni) [E]
A nesting pair at the Nature Forest with a youngster peering out at the massed Chinese photographers. We saw what is likely this pair up a nearby trail with the female feeding the juvenile, but sadly I missed the video op. It seems an obvious split too, as per BirdLife, but neither IOC nor Clements have yet implemented it
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (JAPONICUS) (Dendrocopos major japonicus)
Nice views of this colorful bird from Shiga-Kogen, Nagakura Shrine and Kushiro Forest Park. It is a potential split too it seems.
BLACK WOODPECKER (Dryocopus martius) [*]
Heard drumming at Kushiro forest Park, but regrettably disappeared before we could see it.
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
Just one near Gion on the second day.
RYUKYU MINIVET (Pericrocotus tegimae) [E]
Seen nicely up at Amami Nature Forest.
BLACK PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (NORTHERN) (Terpsiphone atrocaudata illex)
A skulking pair on Amami, the male showing nicely, and glimpsed on Okinawa near Benoki Dam.
BULL-HEADED SHRIKE (Lanius bucephalus)
One near Ukishima and one at Nagakura Shrine, then 3 sightings from Hokkaido, with one bird bearing quite a close resemblance to Brown Shrike until we saw the white patch on the wing bend.
EURASIAN JAY (JAPANESE) (Garrulus glandarius japonicus)
Good views of this yellow-eyed taxon up at Shiga-Kogen, split by Birdlife as Plain-capped Jay, in a complex long overdue for breaking up.
LIDTH'S JAY (Garrulus lidthi) [E]
Seen nicely on Amami but elusive; we had several encounters at Amami Nature Forest but they are breeding and quite wary. A very striking endemic.
AZURE-WINGED MAGPIE (JAPANESE) (Cyanopica cyanus japonica)
Mobbing a Japanese Sparrowhawk at Gion Park and seen very nicely there, maybe 7 birds.
CARRION CROW (EASTERN) (Corvus corone orientalis)
The common corvid on Honshu and Hokkaido, but not on the Ryukyus.
LARGE-BILLED CROW (LARGE-BILLED) (Corvus macrorhynchos japonensis)
The common mainland crow; the large bill and high-domed forehead are distinctive, as are the calls, but greatly outnumbered by Carrion Crow on Hokkaido.
LARGE-BILLED CROW (LARGE-BILLED) (Corvus macrorhynchos connectens)
Note how distinctive these Ryukyu birds are from the mainland ones- smaller, shorter winged, longer tailed, smaller bill, much less domed forehead and quite different calls. It seems obvious this is another species; if the 5 Australian lookalike corvids are split, then this one is equally as distinct as any of them. The whole complex really needs to be properly evaluated with up to date methods.
COAL TIT (CONTINENTAL) (Periparus ater insularis)
The local race has a small crest and is quite dull looking; we saw them at Shiga-Kogen and around Kushiro,
VARIED TIT (Sittiparus varius varius)
A couple of singles from Shiga-Kogen.
VARIED TIT (Sittiparus varius amamii)
We saw a couple on Amami, much paler than mainland birds and with a pale breast gorget.
OWSTON'S TIT (Sittiparus owstoni) [E]
We finally got good views of two by the Nature Centre. It looks larger, heavier billed and much darker below than the mainland and Ryukyu Varied Tits from which it is split. Clearly uncommon too, and seemingly now of great concern as an introduced insect pest is killing the trees that produce the fruit and seeds it likes.
MARSH TIT (Poecile palustris hensoni)
Seen on Hokkaido at Kushiro Marsh and the Forest Park.
WILLOW TIT (WILLOW) (Poecile montanus restrictus)
Some good views up at Shiga-Kogen. 3 birds seemed to be associating there and we saw up to 6.
JAPANESE TIT (Parus minor)
Fairly common on Honshu and also seen on Hokkaido, also seen on the Ryukyus.
EURASIAN SKYLARK (FAR EASTERN) (Alauda arvensis japonica)
2 at Ukishima marsh, and a few singing and displaying at Notsuke. Another potential split.
ZITTING CISTICOLA (FAR EASTERN) (Cisticola juncidis brunniceps)
Nice views at Ukishima and Kin paddies; this taxon has double zitting notes and some single musical notes preceding. The whole complex is long overdue for splitting as several taxa are quite distinct.
BLACK-BROWED REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus bistrigiceps)
Vocal and seen quite well, albeit skulking, at the marsh along the Nemuro tram footpath.
ORIENTAL REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus orientalis)
Nice views at Ukishima marsh.
MARSH GRASSBIRD (Helopsaltes pryeri)
This rare bird eventually showed well at Ukishima Marsh, we saw them in heavy rain on day one but had great looks on day 2 in quite good conditions.
PLESKE'S GRASSHOPPER WARBLER (Helopsaltes pleskei)
This was great on Miyakejima, where despite strong winds we got close views of several. It is an obscure and little known bird that only nests on small offshore Japanese islands where it is a summer visitor.
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia ijimae)
One that flew past Onnemoto Bird Hide was a Japan tick for Phil, they seem very uncommon.
PACIFIC SWALLOW (PACIFIC) (Hirundo tahitica namiyei)
Nice views of this red-throated species on the Ryukyus.
BARN SWALLOW (BUFF-BELLIED) (Hirundo rustica gutturalis)
About 50 at Ukishima, then seen on Miyake, with just one seen on Hokkaido by some.
ASIAN HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon dasypus)
3 up at Shiga-Kogen.
BROWN-EARED BULBUL (Hypsipetes amaurotis amaurotis)
Very common and noisy throughout the mainland except on Hokkaido, where we saw just 2 this trip.
BROWN-EARED BULBUL (Hypsipetes amaurotis pryeri)
Common and noisy on the Ryukyus, this race has a distinctive reddish chest and a slightly less shrill voice than the mainland birds.
LIGHT-VENTED BULBUL (Pycnonotus sinensis)
First at a lunch stop near Naha, then seen at Kin paddies; only in the southern Ryukyu islands in Japan.
EASTERN CROWNED WARBLER (Phylloscopus coronatus)
Seen nicely and very vocal at Shiga-Kogen and around Kushiro.
IJIMA'S LEAF WARBLER (Phylloscopus ijimae) [E]
Initially hard but then great views and calling well at Miyake Nature Centre. An Izu Islands endemic, and a summer visitor here. The pale orange lower mandible was quite striking.
SAKHALIN LEAF WARBLER (Phylloscopus borealoides)
One heard and seen poorly at Shiga-Kogen, then a great singing bird at the Nemuro Footpath tram trail, excellent to see it vocalizing the distinctive song.
JAPANESE LEAF WARBLER (Phylloscopus xanthodryas)
Seen nicely and calling well up at Shiga-Kogen; a summer visitor here.
JAPANESE BUSH WARBLER (NORTHERN) (Horornis diphone cantans)
The default voice of the tour; they were singing very well and we got very nice looks at multiple sites starting at Shiga-Kogen, though oddly none on Amami this year.
LONG-TAILED TIT (CAUDATUS) (Aegithalos caudatus caudatus)
The delightful white-headed nominate taxon is an icon now in Hokkaido, the image used on multiple items and for promotion purposes. We saw them at Kushiro Marsh and Kushiro Forest Park, and my grandkids now have t-shirts with the image!
LONG-TAILED TIT (EUROPAEUS GROUP) (Aegithalos caudatus trivirgatus)
These stripe-headed birds showed well at Shiga-Kogen.
WARBLING WHITE-EYE (Zosterops japonicus)
Widespread in small numbers; formerly Japanese White-eye but now split into multiple lookalikes.
GOLDCREST (ASIAN) (Regulus regulus japonensis)
One in Meiji Park Nemuro only showed briefly, they are strangely low-density and elusive in Japan.
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (WHITE-BELLIED) (Sitta europaea clara)
Seen at Kushiro Forest Park, this one has white underparts.
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (BUFF-BELLIED) (Sitta europaea roseilia)
A great view of one up at Shiga-Kogen, the buff belly showing well, and giving an unusual call unlike normal nuthatch-vocals.
EURASIAN TREECREEPER (Certhia familiaris japonica)
A few saw one at Shiga-Kogen, and then there was another at Kushiro Marsh, always low-density and seldom encountered for some odd reason.
EURASIAN WREN (EURASIAN) (Troglodytes troglodytes fumigatus)
This dark taxon showed well at Shiga-Kogen and then at Kushiro.
EURASIAN WREN (EURASIAN) (Troglodytes troglodytes mosukei)
This is the endemic taxon we saw on Miyakejima.
BROWN DIPPER (Cinclus pallasii)
One on a stream at Rausu, much to Laurel's delight, and Kathy saw one at Shiga-Kogen.
CHESTNUT-CHEEKED STARLING (Agropsar philippensis)
Just one encounter at a village on Hokkaido; it's a scarce summer visitor.
WHITE-CHEEKED STARLING (Spodiopsar cineraceus)
Seen at a couple of sites near Tokyo.
SIBERIAN THRUSH (SAKHALIN) (Geokichla sibirica davisoni)
Phil's great want this trip, we saw one shoot across the trail late one afternoon, barely tickable, but got a very responsive male next morning that sat atop several song posts and showed well. They tend to sing very early morning or very late pm so it was fortunate this one was inquisitive. A Lifer for Phil, and split by BirdLife as Sakhalin Thrush.
BROWN-HEADED THRUSH (Turdus chrysolaus chrysolaus)
Common by voice in the mountains and seen well at Shiga-Kogen.
IZU THRUSH (Turdus celaenops) [E]
Seen nicely on Miyakejima, endemic to these islands.
ASIAN BROWN FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa dauurica)
Seen up at Shiga-Kogen, and around Kushiro.
BLUE-AND-WHITE FLYCATCHER (Cyanoptila cyanomelana cyanomelana)
A fine singing male at Kushiro Forest Park, a summer visitor here in Japan.
IZU ROBIN (Larvivora tanensis) [E]
Surprisingly hard on Miyakejima; we heard several singing but they were very unresponsive, and most only got glimpses.
RYUKYU ROBIN (Larvivora komadori) [E]
Great looks at responsive males on Amami, singing very well and clearly breeding. I have no idea why this is not simply now called Amami Robin following the split of Ryukyu Robin.
OKINAWA ROBIN (Larvivora namiyei) [E]
Inclement weather made this one hard this year, and we had glimpses on day one at Yanbaru, but got a pair near the Ada Hotel on the last morning before the rain set in.
SIBERIAN RUBYTHROAT (Calliope calliope)
A singing male atop a spruce as we came back to the van at Furen footpath where I had been looking for this species.
NARCISSUS FLYCATCHER (Ficedula narcissina)
Very nice looks at this striking species at Shiga-Kogen and Kushiro Forest Park.
DAURIAN REDSTART (Phoenicurus auroreus)
One fine male up at Shiga-Kogen.
BLUE ROCK-THRUSH (PHILIPPENSIS) (Monticola solitarius philippensis)
Great looks on the Ryukyu islands; one was nesting in a hollow support beam at Kunigami on Okinawa.
AMUR STONECHAT (Saxicola stejnegeri)
Great looks at them at Kushiro Marsh; the males are a very colorful bird.
SCALY-BREASTED MUNIA (Lonchura punctulata) [I]
Two at Kin rice paddies on Okinawa.
RUSSET SPARROW (Passer cinnamomeus rutilans)
A fine pair at Shiga-Kogen were unexpected.
EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)
Small numbers were widespread throughout.
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
Seen near Tokyo and at Rausu.
JAPANESE WAGTAIL (Motacilla grandis)
The last addition to the trip with a bird on a sandbar in the river at Otowa Bridge as we returned to Kushiro; it's a near-endemic and always near rivers or creeks.
WHITE WAGTAIL (BLACK-BACKED) (Motacilla alba lugens)
Widespread on Honshu and Hokkaido.
OLIVE-BACKED PIPIT (Anthus hodgsoni)
One at Teshikaga in very rainy conditions.
HAWFINCH (Coccothraustes coccothraustes)
Two seen briefly at Kushiro Forest Park.
LONG-TAILED ROSEFINCH (Carpodacus sibiricus)
Seen nicely at Meiji Park in Nemuro, and also at the Furen footpath, with several lovely pink frosty males. An IOC split as Siberian Rosefinch.
EURASIAN BULLFINCH (BAIKAL) (Pyrrhula pyrrhula griseiventris) [*]
Heard up on the top of the high altitude road at Shiga-Kogen.
ORIENTAL GREENFINCH (Chloris sinica)
Small numbers around Tokyo and on Hokkaido.
EURASIAN SISKIN (Spinus spinus)
Two at Kushiro Forest Park were unexpected.
CHESTNUT-EARED BUNTING (Emberiza fucata)
A surprise find near Karuizawa in the cultivation there where it apparently breeds.
MEADOW BUNTING (Emberiza cioides)
Nice looks at Ukishima Marsh.
OCHRE-RUMPED BUNTING (Emberiza yessoensis)
Seen sitting up and singing in the long reedy grass is Ukishima Marsh near Tokyo, a very localized species.
REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus)
Two at Kushiro Marsh.
YELLOW BUNTING (Emberiza sulphurata)
This rather rare bird showed well at Shiga-Kogen at a site given us by Koji the local birder.
MASKED BUNTING (Emberiza personata)
Great views of singing birds late one afternoon at Kushiro Marsh, and again later at Meiji Park and Furen footpath.
GRAY BUNTING (Emberiza variabilis)
Seen singing at Shiga-Kogen but elusive, always a difficult bird to find.
JAPANESE MACAQUE (Macaca fuscata) [E]
Great views up at Shiga-Kogen with 30 animals on one day; they are much blonder in summer than in winter, and nice to see them away from a hot spring!
RYUKYU RABBIT (Pentalagus furnessi) [E]
This endearing blackish beast with the rather short ears showed well on the second night, with 6 animals seen and a nice video obtained, see the Smugmug site. Numbers have improved since the mongoose eradication program began, but feral cats remain an issue for this Amami endemic.
NORWAY (BROWN) RAT (Rattus norvegicus)
Common on the forest road at night on Amami.
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
Nice looks at these rather pale colored animals on Hokkaido.
SEA OTTER (Enhydra lutris)
Fantastic views of two huge animals swimming, peering up at us and climbing out on seaweed covered rocks on the Ochiishi pelagic. They have the densest fur of all mammals and no blubber as the fur does the job, no wonder they were hunted to near extinction.
HARBOR SEAL (Phoca vitulina)
One seen by some on the Ochiishi pelagic.
SIKA DEER (Cervus nippon)
Small numbers of these on Hokkaido, with the stags in velvet so no large antlers yet.
Birds of the trip were an unusually varied assortment, with the usual favourites like Red-crowned Crane and Blakiston's Fish Owl having rivals with Narcissus Flycatcher, Amami and Okinawa Woodpecker, Japanese Bush Warbler for it's sheer persistence and background vocals on so many days, Japanese Paradise Flycatcher, Falcated Duck, Amami Woodcock, Brown Dipper, Okinawa Rail and alcids in general, with Tufted Puffin an obvious mega and Siberian Thrush also very popular. Phil chose those last two plus Ryukyu Tree-Rat and Ishikawa's frog too.
Mammals were not too shabby either, with the Japanese Macaques, Red Foxes and Sika Deer good to see, with Ryukyu Flying-fox on one night at Ada, and the marvelous Ryukyu Tree-Rat (Diplothrix legata) on Amami, one I'd long wanted to see as it bears a curious resemblance to the similarly large and often arboreal Giant White-tailed Rat (Uromys) back home in Far North Queensland. The small hopping rodents with the shorter tails on that track are I think Amami Spiny Rat (Tokudaia osimensis), I got one on a Black Rabbit video. They are unusual in seemingly having no Y-chromosomes.....
Herps
A Pryer's keelback (Hebius pryeri) was in the pond by the swordtail (fire-bellied) newts (Cynops ensicauda) on Amami, likely hunting them.
Akamata (Lycodon semicarinatus), the Loo-Choo big-tooth snake or Ryukyu odd-tooth snake was seen on the road at night, it is one of the few species that can prey on the poisonous and greatly feared habu snakes (which are also used in medicinal products and sake of all things, that snake in a bottle is truly grim!)
Japanese rat snake (Elaphe climacophora) one on the bridge at Kushiro Forest Park, hiding under the planks each time we came by and non-venomous.
Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas) One off the harbor at Miyake, always a good place to see them.
Ryukyu Black-breasted Leaf Turtle (Geoemyda japonica) seen in the road by the Ada Gardens Hotel, a strange and rare species that I'd long wanted to see, with one central and two lateral ridges on the shell, and a black belly. It did not appreciate being rescued and hissed when I picked it up!
Frogs were good in the wet conditions in the Ryukyus; we saw Amami Green tree frog (Zhangixalus amamiensis) calling by and in the pond at the Nature Forest, Amami Ishikawa's frog (Odorrana splendiae) in a tree hole there, Holst's frog (Bedina holsti) at Yanbaru and Ryukyu tip-nosed frog (Odorrana narina) also there on our frog-spotting and very wet night drive.
Ryukyu kajika frog or Japanese stream frog (Buergeria japonica) was the one by the Ada Gardens Hotel
Plants
The endemic cycad that was common on N. Okinawa is Cycas revoluta, I hope the die-back we were seeing is not something sinister. The purple flowered primrose on Hokkaido is Japanese primrose, Primula japonica. The common large round-leafed roadside plant on Hokkaido is a giant butterbur (Petasites japonicus), which is edible in small quantities and is called
fuki.
Butterflies
The rainy and windy conditions meant butterfly activity was much reduced this trip, though the warmer climes of the Ryukyus had a better variety of butterflies. I have erred on the side of caution and mainly identified from photographs where feasible, though it was hard with the swallowtails which never seem to alight. Some Japanese butterfly experts via i-Naturalist were very helpful as I posted most photos there, and these are some firm identifications:
Atrophaneura alcinous: Chinese Windmill- the long-tailed large red-bodied black with yellow sub-apical dots swallowtail of Okinawa.
Papilio helenus: Red Helen- Common on Okinawa, another widespread species
Papilio protenor: Spangle Swallowtail- Amami
Graphium sarpedon: Blue Triangle- common on Honshu and the Ryukyus, a very widespread species locally.
Striped blue crow (Euploea mulciber) Nesari on Amami
Ceylon glassy blue tiger (Ideopsis similis) Nesari
Eastern Pale Clouded Yellow (Colias erate) Amami
Camberwell Beauty or Mourning Cloak (Vanessa antiopa) Shiga-Kogen
Awlking (Choaspes benjamiinii) the spectacular large skipper on Kristine's boots at Yanbaru
Totals for the tour: 170 bird taxa and 7 mammal taxa