A Field Guides Birding Tours Report

BIRD PARADISE OF CENTRAL ASIA: UZBEKISTAN, KAZAKHSTAN & KYRGYZSTAN 2024

May 22-June 12, 2024 with Jay VanderGaast & local guide guiding

After many, many years of planning, and setback after setback, our inaugural tour to Central Asia finally made it off the ground this spring, and a pretty fine debut it was! Over three weeks we covered a vast array of habitats, from dusty deserts and arid, rocky canyons to lush mountain meadows, dense coniferous forests, and snowy, high-elevation passes, through three countries never before visited on one of our tours. Along the way, we picked up many of the region's iconic specialty species, including several that are rare, local, and found nowhere else but here in Central Asia.

We started things off in Uzbekistan, where we spent our time quite differently than elsewhere on the tour. While our mornings here were devoted to tracking down many species that we were unlikely to see elsewhere on the tour, our afternoons were mainly used to take in the many well-preserved and restored historic sites in the legendary cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. In the Samarkand region, we visited the Takhta-Karacha Pass to find local specialties like Hume's Lark, White-throated Robin, White-capped Bunting, Finsch's Wheatear, and Eastern Orphean Warbler while Bearded and Egyptian vultures and Eurasian Griffons soared overhead. The afternoon saw us touring the many beautiful cultural sites the city has to offer—the famous Registan Square, Bibi-Khanym Mosque (where we also enjoyed the swirling flocks of Alpine Swifts) and the stunning Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis for a fascinating glimpse into the city's storied past. And from Bukhara, we ventured to the Kyzyl-Kum Desert for the very local Turkestan Ground-Jay, Desert Finch, and Scrub Warbler, and to the wetlands at the Jeyran Eco-Center for Marbled Duck, White-tailed Lapwing, and Menetries's Warbler before spending our afternoons strolling through the charming historic city center, literally right outside the doors of our hotel. I think most of you would agree that Bukhara, particularly, was one of the main highlights of the tour!

Before leaving Uzbekistan behind, we spent one day in the Chimgan Hills to the east of the city, tracking down a few more birds we wouldn't see elsewhere, including Indian Paradise-Flycatcher, Long-tailed Shrike, and the restricted range Rufous-naped Tit, along with some more widespread species like the yellow-breasted form of Azure Tit, and a pair of tiny White-crowned Penduline-tits. And then it was off to Kyrgyzstan, by way of Kazakhstan, where we would first visit the spectacular Charyn Canyon as we worked our way south and east. While the canyon itself was not especially birdy, the surrounding desert provided some great birds, with Pallas's Sandgrouse, elegant Demoiselle Cranes, Red-tailed Shrike, Desert Wheatear, Asian Desert Warbler, and swarms of Mongolian Finches being among the most memorable.

Leaving the canyon region behind, the scenery changed dramatically as we approached the Kyrgyzstan border, with the dry, stony desert scapes giving way to lush green pastures and fields literally aglow with fiery, red poppies, all with the towering, snow-topped Tien Shan Mountains as a gorgeous backdrop. We wasted little time adding some great birds to our lists, with some decent views of an elusive Corn Crake and fantastic looks at the rare Pallas's Grasshopper-Warbler kicking off before we arrived in Karakol, and the charming hotel we'd call home for the next three nights. The next two days found us venturing into the high mountains, where amidst the beautiful scenery (and some heavy snow along the Barskoon Road), we hunted down a bunch of incredible montane species. Ibisbill, Himalayan Snowcock, Himalayan Rubythroat, Brown and Black-throated accentors, Rufous-backed, Blue-capped, and White-winged redstarts, Red-mantled Rosefinch, and Fire-fronted Serin were among the many avian stars of this scenic region, and contributed to making this the favorite birding venue for many of the group.

It was with some reluctance that we left the scenic beauty of Kyrgyzstan behind, but Kazakhstan's rugged desert region held still more specialties for us to find, and our drive back to Almaty was enlivened by the incredible sight of hundreds of jaunty-crested Rosy Starlings breeding in the drystone walls of a roadside cemetery, an amazing sight to see! The next day, heading north from Almaty towards the Taukum Desert, a stop at nearby Lake Sorbulak gave us views of the rare White-headed Duck amongst many more familiar species. Then it was on to the desert and the yurt camp that would be our base for exploring the area. As expected, conditions were hot and dusty here, but we persevered and found many of the hoped-for species. While the rare Caspian Plover was MIA this season, we enjoyed views of nesting Greater Sand-Plovers, Steppe Eagle, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Calandra, Crested, and Turkestan Short-toed larks, Brown-necked Ravens and, finally, a displaying male of the scarce and local MacQueen's Bustard. Further afield, a trip up to the Turanga poplars north of Topar netted us Yellow-eyed Pigeons, White-winged Woodpecker, and the lovely Saxaul Sparrow, all three of which are restricted to Central Asia! Our nights at the camp were exciting, too, with cute desert mammals like Great and Small Five-tailed Jerboas, and Mid-Day Jird giving some memorable encounters, as did the marvelous Common Wonder Geckos, and a Desert Sand Boa!

Our final venue in Kazakhstan was the vast steppes of the north, and the wetland complex that is Korgalzhyn Reserve. Springtime flooding had led to high water levels, allowing birds that would otherwise have been concentrated around shrinking ponds to spread out over a vast territory, but we still saw a great assortment of species here. Like most of the earlier birding groups that had visited, we failed to connect with the Critically Endangered Sociable Lapwing, but the two other local specialties, White-winged and Black larks, showed beautifully, and the incredible slow-motion flight of the latter was a treat to watch. Other highlights of our time here included huge Dalmatian Pelicans, Pallas's Gulls, displaying Black-tailed Godwits, Red-footed Falcon, Black-winged Pratincole, good numbers of Bluethroats, and Sedge, Booted, and Common Grasshopper warblers, among many more. A final afternoon visit to the quirky, modern city of Astana even netted us one final new species, a Fieldfare!

There are many people to thank for helping make this debut trip a success: our ground agent Machiel, who worked with me for years in getting this thing going, and who ably guided us through Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan; his counterpart, the tireless Maxim, who shared his vast knowledge of Uzbekistan's bird life with us; our drivers Leo and Sergei who got us around safely; our charming and knowledgeable cultural guides, Feruza and Shakhnoza, who brought the past to life for us in Samarkand and Bukhara; and in the FG office, Sharon, who worked with Machiel and his wife Bonnie to make sure everything was in order during our tour. I also want to thank all of you for joining us on this trip. I know that some clients are reluctant to go on the first run of a new tour. I'm so glad you all were willing to sign up; I couldn't have asked for a better group to start this off with!

—Jay

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant


Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)

GRAYLAG GOOSE (Anser anser)

We finally picked up these geese on our last morning of birding, when a pair flew in and landed nearby as we birded Lake Taldykol on the outskirts of Astana. (KZ)

MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor) [N]

Quite common in the wetlands around Astana, especially at Lake Taldykol where there were numerous nests and several pairs with cygnets. (KZ)

WHOOPER SWAN (Cygnus cygnus)

Not quite as numerous as the Mute Swans, but still seen daily in good numbers, with excellent close views of a couple of pairs, and at least one pair that demonstrated why their given name is "Whooper". (KZ)

RUDDY SHELDUCK (Tadorna ferruginea) [N]

This was the widely seen duck through much of the tour, with our first at some ponds in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, then memorable sightings of a bird perched atop a tall conifer high in the mountains of the Chon-Ashuu Pass, and another sat in the snow next to a cliff face even higher in the mountains along the Barskoon Mining Road, both birds looking distinctively out of place. We also spotted one with a brood of adorable ducklings in a roadside pond on our way back from Karakol. (UZ, KZ, KG)

COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)

A few birds were among the many Ruddy Shelducks at Sorbulak Lake, with small numbers also at a few wetlands in the Astana region. (KZ)

GARGANEY (Spatula querquedula)

A handsome drake was loafing on the shoreline of one of the deep lakes in the Korgalzhyn region, and a second pair flew by as we birded Lake Taldykol the following morning. (KZ)

NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)

Small numbers at the wetlands around the Astana region. (KZ)

GADWALL (Mareca strepera)

Aside from a pair at Lake Sorbulak, we saw only small numbers of these daily in the Astana region wetlands. (KZ)

MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)

While most of these familiar ducks were seen in our final days around Astana, we did have a few sightings of these in other scattered wetlands, beginning with a few birds on the overflowing Chirchik River east of Tashkent. (UZ, KZ, KG)

NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)

Our lone sighting, and perhaps only for those in the second van, was of a pair flushed from a flooded ditch along the roadside in the Korgalzhyn region. (KZ)

GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)

We also had just one of these, a drake in breeding plumage, on our final morning at Lake Taldykol. (KZ)

MARBLED DUCK (Marmaronetta angustirostris)

Though we never saw these scarce ducks on the water, we were pleased to get some excellent fly-by views of a pair, then a trio, at the Jeyran Eco-center. (UZ)

RED-CRESTED POCHARD (Netta rufina)

A large flock of these gorgeous ducks were seen rather distantly at Lake Sorbulak, then much better around Astana, with an especially close male at Lake Taldykol giving us our most satisfying looks. (KZ)

COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)

Fairly common around the Astana region, where we saw mostly drakes, though our first bird, with the White-headed Ducks at Lake Sorbulak, was a hen. (KZ)

TUFTED DUCK (Aythya fuligula)

A trio of these ducks were seen at Lake Taldykol on our final morning, though it was difficult to make out their tufts due to the distance and the fact they they were asleep. (KZ)

WHITE-HEADED DUCK (Oxyura leucocephala) [N]

A close relative of our Ruddy Duck, this scarce and declining species was a target of our birding at Lake Sorbulak, and we were happy to find about 10 birds there, including a couple of ducklings. Unexpected was finding others at two different sites in the Astana region, with 2 males on one lake in the Korgalzhyn area, and another male, providing some of our best views, on Small Taldykol Lake, where the incredible construction boom seems poised to wipe out the remaining habitat here. (KZ)

Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)

RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus)

Though this is a familiar species to many of us, it was refreshing to see the birds in areas they are native to. We only saw a couple, but had fantastic looks at close male of the Uzbekistan endemic subspecies, zerafschanicus, along the road at the Jeyran Eco-Center. Some of us also saw a roadside male of the subspecies turcestanicus from the vans as we headed up the Chon-Ashuu Pass. (UZ, KG)

HIMALAYAN SNOWCOCK (Tetraogallus himalayensis)

Snow and heavy fog as we headed up the Barskoon Mining Road boded poorly for our chances of this high mountain species, but after a lengthy wait at the top of the pass, the sky began to clear, and we headed down to a cliff face where these birds were known to be. Initially, we could hear a couple of them calling from high above the road, but spotting them proved to much more difficult. Finally, though, Kirsten managed to locate a male perched high on the ridge, where we were able to obtain some pretty awesome scope views of it! Nice spotting Kirsten! Propelled by first place picks from Don, Amy, Susan, and Diane, this was voted the runaway favorite as bird of the trip. (KG)

COMMON QUAIL (Coturnix coturnix) [*]

Heard only where we stopped to look for Little Bustards east of Almaty, and at our lunch stop on the way to Karakol, as well as a couple of other roadside sites as we crossed into Kyrgyzstan. (KZ, KG)

CHUKAR (Alectoris chukar)

Our only sighting as a group was of a cooperative bird calling loudly from a large boulder across the ravine from our vantage point in the Takhta-Karacha Pass south of Samarkand, though a few folks saw others scrambling up the hillsides in the Charyn Canyon area. (UZ, KZ)

Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)

GREATER FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus roseus)

The Korgalzhyn Reserve is home to the most northerly breeding population of flamingos in the world, and while we did not see the breeding colony while there, we did have good scope views of what appeared to be an injured bird at one of the lakes near Korgalzhyn Village. (KZ)

Podicipedidae (Grebes)

HORNED GREBE (Podiceps auritus)

A pair of birds on Lake Taldykol, and a single on Small Taldykol Lake were our only ones for the tour.(KZ)

RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena)

Just a few in the Astana region wetlands, with a single bird on Zhalanash Lake, where we had our first picnic lunch shortly after arriving in Astana, and three or 4 birds on Lake Taldykol. (KZ)

GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)

Small numbers of these elegant grebes were on many of the wetlands around Astana, though our first sighting was of a pair at Lake Sorbulak. This is a wide-ranging species from western Europe through to Africa and Australia, though with only 3 subspecies, and the one found here is the nominate, same as the birds in Europe. (KZ)

EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis) [N]

Roughly 20 of these were on the White-headed Duck pond at Lake Sorbulak, with smaller numbers of several of the wetlands around Astana. (KZ)

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)

Pretty much seen daily throughout the tour, but I don't think we came across any truly wild populations. (UZ, KZ, KG)

HILL PIGEON (Columba rupestris)

As we descended the Barskoon Mining Road, I spotted what appeared to be a trio of Rock Pigeons flying up the valley towards us, but the fact that we were still quite high in the mountains made me want to take a closer look, and as the birds passed, it was clear by the prominent white tail band that these were not Rock Pigeons but this locally scarce species instead! Though we stopped the van to try and find them after they'd passed, we were unsuccessful, and only a few people in my van had been lucky enough to see them. (KG)

YELLOW-EYED PIGEON (Columba eversmanni)

It was quite a long drive north from our yurt camp in the Taukum Desert to the stand of Turanga poplar trees frequented by this local species in the Zheltorangy region, but it was worth it to get the excellent scope views we had of a couple of these birds, which are endemic to Central Asia.

COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)

Small numbers were seen most days in Uzbekistan, including several in the fruit-laden mulberry trees at some of the historic sites around Samarkand. Once we left that country, however, there were very few, with just a pair of birds seen as we headed up the Chon-Ashuu Pass, and a single bird on two days at the migrant trap oasis at Kanshengel Village. (UZ, KG, KZ)

ORIENTAL TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia orientalis)

Though both this species and the similar European Turtle-Dove can be found in the three countries we visited, this is the more commonly seen species, and the only turtle-dove we saw this tour. They were most common in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan, where we saw them daily, though we also saw a few birds near the ranger station at Sogeti where we had our picnic lunch before walking to the artesian well, a few more at Kaskelen National Park, and a single bird in the Astana region. (KZ, KG)

EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)

While this is an increasingly familiar bird across North America, this is the part of the world to which they are native. They are also pretty common, mainly in Uzbekistan, but with small numbers around Karakol and the Almaty region as well. (UZ, KZ, KG)

LAUGHING DOVE (Spilopelia senegalensis) [N]

These small doves were relatively common over the first few days in Uzbekistan, but not seen again once we left that country. At the rest stop with the ponds in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, we had a bird on a nest on the window ledge of one of the buildings. (UZ)

Pteroclidae (Sandgrouse)

PALLAS'S SANDGROUSE (Syrrhaptes paradoxus)

As we arrived at a watering hole near the Charyn Canyon to watch for sandgrouse, so did hundreds of noisy sheep which seemed to be keeping any thirsty birds at bay. But eventually, the sheep were driven away from the water, and once things had calmed down, a single male of this species flew in and dropped into the grass near the water, where we were able to get some good scope views. Shortly after it flew off, another came in, both birds certainly collecting water to bring back to some thirsty nestlings in this parched landscape. That same afternoon, after our successful Asian Desert Warbler search, John spotted four sandgrouse that flew in and landed nearby in the short grass, and we were able to track them down as well for some more excellent views. (KZ)

BLACK-BELLIED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles orientalis)

The most commonly encountered sandgrouse of the tour. Don got us on our first ones as we scanned the desert scrub from the roadside on our way to the Jeyran Eco-Center. He spotted them flying in the distance, and we watched as they came towards us, eventually flying by quite close and giving us super looks. All our other sightings came over our three days in the Taukum Desert, where these birds proved to be quite common. (UZ, KZ)

Otididae (Bustards)

MACQUEEN'S BUSTARD (Chlamydotis macqueenii)

Ed somehow spotted an extremely distant one of this rare and declining species as we scanned the desert at the Jeyran Eco-Center, but only he, Susan, and I managed to see it before it vanished behind the scrub and failed to reappear. But our main area for this bird was in the Taukum Desert, so we weren't too worried about the miss. However, after our first morning's search near our yurt camp failed to find a bustard, worry started to creep in. Happily, on our second morning we struck gold, quickly spotting a male at one of our first stops. Though the bird was not especially close, without any heat haze to distort the image, we had some excellent scope views. Better yet, the bird was displaying vigorously, and we all enjoyed watching him fluff himself up and run around wildly across the grasslands to win over any females that might be watching. (UZ, KZ)

Cuculidae (Cuckoos)

COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)

Not numerous, but we had scattered sightings throughout the tour, mainly of birds flying past. The first was seen by a few folks at the treed spot we stopped in below the Takhta-Karacha Pass. The next day we heard one calling in a seemingly unsuitable area at a wetland en route to Bukhara without a tree in sight. Eventually a pair of birds flew by at close range and gave us all a good look. Elsewhere we came across a couple of birds in the higher parts of the Chon-Ashuu Pass, and a couple of birds flew by as we birded at the Karasu River near Astana on our final morning. (UZ, KG, KZ)

Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)

EURASIAN NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus europaeus)

After our successful scops-owl search at our Charyn Canyon hunting cabins, a few folks hung around to try to find one of these birds, and were quickly rewarded when a calling bird flew up the road towards us and made a close pass, well-lit by our spotlights. (KZ)

Apodidae (Swifts)

ALPINE SWIFT (Tachymarptis melba)

Samarkand was the place to see these large, striking swifts, as they were numerous at several of the historic sites, with good numbers of them zipping across the skies over the Bibi-Khanym Mosque on our first afternoon, chasing after each other and calling loudly, with a couple of birds even making brief landings in the crumbling brickwork of the mosque. Plenty more were seen around the Registan Square the following day, but once we left Samarkand behind, we mostly left these birds behind as well, though Machiel and a few folks in his van saw a single bird near the Charyn Canyon as well. (UZ, KZ)

COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)

We didn't even need to leave our hotel rooms at Tashkent to see these birds, as dozens of them were easily seen as they wheeled around the other nearby buildings. We continued to see them in numbers throughout our time in Uzbekistan, but, as with the above, there were few after we left that country, with just a couple of sightings near the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border and a handful of birds over one of the lakes near Korgalzhyn Village . (UZ, KZ, KG)

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

CORN CRAKE (Crex crex)

Just as we were finished our picnic lunch en route to Karakol, and about to resume our search for a reported Pallas's Grasshopper Warbler known to be in the area, we were sidetracked when one of these birds flew over the road next to our lunch spot then started calling loudly nearby, joined by another vocal bird, and we went to work trying to see them. But no matter how we tried, the birds just continued to call close by without giving us so much as a hint of movement. I finally decided that the only option was to try to flush one, so I maneuvered into position behind a calling bird, then rushed its spot as it called, and, nothing! But then suddenly, from a couple of feet away, the crake burst out of the grass and flew by, giving us all a decent enough look which we were happy to settle for by that time. (KG)

EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)

With all the wetland areas visited, it was a bit surprising that we only saw a single moorhen, which Don Spotted skulking among the reeds along the canal at Lake Sorbulak. (KZ)

EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)

Folks in my van saw a pair on a roadside pond as we passed through the town of Tyup on our way to Karakol, and we saw a few more at Lake Sorbulak, but they were most numerous in Lake Taldykol. (KG, KZ)

Gruidae (Cranes)

DEMOISELLE CRANE (Anthropoides virgo)

After our picnic lunch near the Charyn Canyon, most of us were beginning to nod off in the afternoon heat as we headed on to our next birding stop. But fortunately Diane was still awake and alert, and she spotted a pair of these elegant cranes feeding near the roadside. Though these were our first, they were not our only ones, and we had a few birds in wetlands on either side of the Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan border, then a big flock of 43 of them with a herd of horses at a waterhole near Kanshengel. (KZ, KG)

COMMON CRANE (Grus grus)

Machiel had a spot for these cranes not far across the border into Kyrgyzstan, so we made a stop to look on our way back towards Almaty and quickly spotted a fairly distant pair in a verdant pasture, then picked out another flying towards us, the bird eventually making a pretty close pass and offering great looks. We then went on to see two others in the Korgalzhyn region, a single that flew across the road during a roadside comfort stop, and another that flew past over a wetland later the same morning. (KG, KZ)

Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)

BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)

Small numbers in wetlands around Bukhara, then again in the Astana region. (UZ, KZ)

PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)

Just a couple of birds in one of the wetlands west of Astana. (KZ)

Ibidorhynchidae (Ibisbill)

IBISBILL (Ibidorhyncha struthersii)

Our initial scan of the ideal stretch of river in the Chon-Ashuu pass came up empty, but on our return from the hike up to the junipers, Ed picked out one of these on the far bank, and we wound up with some nice scope looks at this unique bird. (KG)

Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)

EURASIAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus ostralegus)

It seems a bit odd to see an oystercatcher so far inland, but this species is not so strictly coastal as most other oystercatchers. We found a single bird sitting on a rock in the middle of the Chirchik River on our way down from the Hills, then another pair along the river much closer to Tashkent, and we also saw one at Sorbulak Lake.(UZ, KZ)

Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)

LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius) [N]

A pair with at least 3 downy chicks on the mudflats at the Kyzyl-Kum desert fish ponds, and a single bird on 3 consecutive days at the small waterhole at the Kanshengel migrant trap.(UZ, KZ)

NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)

We first saw a pair at the river crossing south of Karkara as we waited for the bus to return to take us across the border into Kyrgyzstan. Later we had one at Lake Sorbulak, and another in wetlands in the Topar region, before encountering these handsome plovers daily in the wetlands around Astana. (KZ)

WHITE-TAILED LAPWING (Vanellus leucurus)

One of the specialties of Uzbekistan, these noisy lapwings were seen first at a roadside wetland on our way to Bukhara, then again at the Jeyran Eco-Center. (UZ

GREATER SAND-PLOVER (Anarhynchus leschenaultii) [N]

Unfortunately, the scarce Caspian Plover was missing from its usual breeding area in the Taukum Desert this year, so we had to settle for some fine views of this other desert-breeding species. We had several fine views, including of a pair with at least a couple of fluffy chicks. (KZ)

KENTISH PLOVER (Anarhynchus alexandrinus)

About a dozen of these pale plovers were present on the mudflats at the fish pond in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, with a single the following day at the Jeyran Eco-Center. (UZ)

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)

BLACK-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa limosa)

It was a real treat to see these birds in their striking breeding plumage rather than the dull winter plumage I'm accustomed to seeing. We had them in small numbers in the Astana region, but had some excellent close flybys from a couple at the Karasu River crossing west of the city on our final morning. (KZ)

RED-NECKED PHALAROPE (Phalaropus lobatus)

About 30-40 of these northbound migrants spun around on the fish pond in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, but that pales in comparison to the flocks of hundreds winging across several of the lakes at Korgalzhyn. (UZ, KZ)

COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)

Not at all common on the trip, as we had just a couple of birds at the river crossing south of Karkara, and a single at the Ibisbill spot in the Chon-Ashuu Pass. (KZ, KG)

MARSH SANDPIPER (Tringa stagnatilis)

A couple of birds at the fish pond in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, though one bird had an unusually long, and somewhat upswept bill that initially had us thinking Terek Sandpiper. Later we encountered a few more in several of the wetlands in the Astana region. (UZ, KZ)

COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)

Our only sighting of these handsome shorebirds was of about 8-10 birds at the river crossing near Karkara on our way down to Kyrgyzstan. Surprisingly we had none in the Astana region, where they breed, though that may have been due in part to the very wet conditions after the flooding in central Kazakhstan earlier in the spring. (KZ)

LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)

Seen only at the fish pond in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, where shorebird aficionado, Ed, made an accurate count of 33 birds. (UZ)

Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)

BLACK-WINGED PRATINCOLE (Glareola nordmanni)

Small numbers of these were at a couple of the lakes around Korgalzhyn, where we had good scope views of some perched birds as well as some nice flight views. Very similar to the next species, which happily doesn't occur in northern Kazakhstan, making the identification pretty straightforward. (KZ)

COLLARED PRATINCOLE (Glareola pratincola)

Separated from the above by the rufous, not black, underwings, a feature we were able to make out on the bird that Don spotted circling overhead at the Jeyran Eco-Center. Our only other record was of a bird seen by a couple of folks from the buses on the outskirts of Almaty as we returned there from the Taukum Desert. (UZ, KZ)

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)

BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus) [N]

Most numerous in the Astana region, though we saw our first ones at a small pond as we passed through the town of Tyup on our way to Karakol, and a large number of them at a breeding colony at Sorbulak Lake. (KZ, KG)

PALLAS'S GULL (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus)

This beautiful gull, also known as Great Black-headed Gull, was seen only at a breeding colony on an island in the large lake at Maishukur Village in the Korgalzhyn Reserve. (KZ)

COMMON GULL (Larus canus)

Even prior to the split of Mew Gull, this was the name used for this species in Europe. We saw just a couple of them in the Astana region, where the subspecies heinei (in the Russian group) breeds. (KZ)

CASPIAN GULL (Larus cachinnans)

The default large, white-headed gull in Central Asia. Most numerous in the Astana region, with big numbers also at Sorbulak Lake and a few at the Kyzyl-Kum Desert fish pond. (UZ, KZ)

LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL (STEPPE) (Larus fuscus barabensis)

Marginally darker-baked than the above, though that can be hard to determine in the harsh sunlight on the steppes, so perhaps best separated by the wing pattern. The outermost primary on this species is tipped with black and white, as opposed to the all white tip in Caspian Gull. Not an easy feature to see, but Ed's photos of the 3 birds that flew past along the highway on our way out to Korgalzhyn clearly shot this fieldmark.

LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)

We had a pair of these aptly-named small terns at both the Kyzyl-Kum fish ponds and the Jeyran Eco-Center, and a single bird at Korgalzhyn. (UZ, KZ)

CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)

A lone bird at the large lake at Korgalzhyn village was our only one. (KZ)

BLACK TERN (EURASIAN) (Chlidonias niger niger)

A few of these were foraging with some White-winged Terns on the far side of Lake Taldykol on the outskirts of Astana. (KZ)

WHITE-WINGED TERN (Chlidonias leucopterus)

The more numerous of the two marsh terns. In flight, the most noticeable features to separate this from the above species are the contrasting white rump and the black underwings. We saw these at several wetlands in the Astana region. (KZ)

COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)

This was the most widespread and commonly seen tern of the trip, and we saw them in several of the wetlands around Bukhara, along the Chirchik River east of Tashkent, the river crossing near the KZ-KG border post, and the various wetlands around Astana. (UZ, KZ)

Ciconiidae (Storks)

BLACK STORK (Ciconia nigra)

Not a common species in Central Asia, so we did well to get these in two different areas. We first had a very distant trio on the shores of a large reservoir south of Samarkand, clearly identifiable in the scope despite the distance. Then we saw a somewhat closer bird along the river south of Karkara as we prepared to cross the border into Kyrgyzstan. (UZ, KZ)

WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia) [N]

One of our very first birds of the trip. We made a couple of stops along the highway near the mighty Sirdarya River, where huge numbers of storks were nesting, with every power pole adorned with active nests, some with several in sort of a stork condominium. According to Maxim, over 500 active nests are in this colony, though 50 years ago, White Storks were only found here as a wintering bird, with the population flying north into China to breed. Hunting pressure on the birds in China, combined with a change in the landscape in Uzbekistan, with much land converted to agricultural and many canals and ponds being built, increasing foraging areas and food availability for the storks, led to increasing numbers of storks opting to breed locally rather than fly north. The result is a healthy breeding population, and an impressive sight! (UZ)

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)

PYGMY CORMORANT (Microcarbo pygmaeus)

Just two sightings of these, neither one especially satisfying as they were both quick flyovers, one along the highway during a stop to view the White Storks, the other at the Jeyran Eco-center. They were clearly very small cormorants, but a better look was desired, so we also searched for these along the Chirchik River near Tashkent, but the extremely high water covered most of their favored rock perches along the river. (UZ)

GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)

A few birds around Lake Sorbulak, and a single one in the Astana region. (KZ)

Pelecanidae (Pelicans)

GREAT WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus onocrotalus)

A large number of these were seen from the dam at Lake Sorbulak. (KZ)

DALMATIAN PELICAN (Pelecanus crispus)

We saw a few of these very large, grayish pelicans daily in the Astana region, with some nice, close flyovers at a couple of sites. (KZ)

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)

We saw two immatures and one adult of this cosmopolitan heron at the fish ponds in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, then another 5 adults roosting above the flooded Chirchik River on the outskirts of Tashkent. (UZ)

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)

Singles on a few days in the Almaty and Astana regions. A couple of distant egrets flying by in Uzbekistan were also most likely this species, though we couldn't rule out the much less common Little Egret based on what we could see. (KZ)

GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)

Small numbers at most of the wetlands we visited in Uzbekistan, north of Almaty and around Astana. (UZ, KZ)

PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)

I can only surmise that this species was named by someone with no eye for color, as I have yet to see any hint of purple on these birds. We saw a grand total of 4 birds over several days in Uzbekistan, including a couple at the fish ponds in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert. (UZ)

Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)

GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)

Along our tour route, this species was most expected in Uzbekistan, and we had sightings on two days, a pair that flew over the highway as we were viewing the nesting storks in the Sirdarya River area, and a half a dozen birds along the Chirchik River east of Tashkent. Much less expected were the two birds on the shores of Sorbulak Lake, as the range maps don't show this species anywhere near there. (UZ, KZ)

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)

BEARDED VULTURE (Gypaetus barbatus)

I still prefer the old name of Lammergeier, but whatever you call it, this is one neat bird. We had singles on 4 different days, with especially fantastic looks at our first in the Takhta-Karacha Pass, though our 3 others in the Chimgan Hills, high in the Tien Shan Mountains along the Barskoon Road, and near the border post on our way back to Kazakhstan were all pretty good, too. This was John's pick as top bird of the trip. (UZ, KG)

EGYPTIAN VULTURE (Neophron percnopterus)

Another very cool and distinctive vulture. Most of us had just one sighting, but that was a super view of a low-flying bird at the Takhta-Karacha Pass, at about the same time as our first Bearded Vulture. A couple of folks (Diane and Don, I think), also saw one from the bus in the early morning hours on our way to the Kyzyl-Kum Desert. This was Kathleen's top pick as bird of the trip. (UZ)

CINEREOUS VULTURE (Aegypius monachus)

Our timing was pretty poor for this species, as out only one flew over the parking lot at the Amirsoy ski resort when the majority of the group were still using the rest rooms, and only 3 or 4 of us got to see it, with Kirsten getting a few photos as proof. (UZ)

HIMALAYAN GRIFFON (Gyps himalayensis)

The cleaner, whiter underwings of this huge vulture help to separate it from the next species, which is otherwise very similar. We had several of these over the Amirsoy ski resort, and a few high up in the Tien Shan Mountains along the Barskoon Road. (UZ, KG)

EURASIAN GRIFFON (Gyps fulvus)

About half a dozen of these were soaring above us at the Takhta-Karacha Pass, with another pointed out by Maxim among the Himalayan Griffons at Amirsoy. (UZ)

SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)

Just a couple of sightings of this attractive eagle, one seen by the entire group during our walk up the valley at Galvasay, then another seen by the folks in my van as we headed back to the yurt camp after our early morning plover search in the Taukum Desert. (UZ, KZ)

BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus)

This rather small eagle was encountered several times, with our first seen at the Takhta-Karacha Pass alongside our multiple vulture species, others in the Chimgan Hills, and singles in the Chon-Ashuu Pass and the Taukum Desert. One of the most distinctive field marks of this species are the white 'headlights' on the front of the wings on either side of the head, a feature we managed to see on at least a couple of the birds.

STEPPE EAGLE (Aquila nipalensis)

We had only two sightings of this large, dark eagle, with a single, soaring bird in the Charyn Canyon region, then a subadult bird sitting on the ground not far from our camp in the Taukum Desert. (KZ)

GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos homeyeri)

We saw this eagle only as we descended the Barskoon mining road, but had at least 4 birds soaring around some rocky cliffs where they were known to breed. (KG)

WESTERN MARSH HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)

Most numerous in Uzbekistan, where we saw them almost daily, including a pair engaged in an apparent food exchange (a frog). In Kazakhstan, we saw them mainly in the Astana region, with a particularly memorable sighting of a male performing an impressive swooping and climbing display flight over Zhalanash Lake as we ate our picnic lunch. (UZ, KZ)

MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)

The only small "ringtail" harrier of the tour, which was surprising as apparently Pallid Harrier is usually quite numerous in the northern steppes but were completely absent this year. We saw a single one of these birds, a rather distant immature bird flying over the open Taukum Desert. (KZ)

SHIKRA (Accipiter badius)

Primarily in Uzbekistan, where we had several good views, especially a pair along the flooded Chirchik River that seemed to be watching over a well-hidden nest, though we could hear the kids squawking from a densely-leaved tree. One bird allowed us to approach very closely as it sat atop a dead tree along the track. (UZ, KZ)

EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)

Though this is the most widespread Accipiter in the region, we had just 3 sightings, a single bird in each country. Our first was a flyby over the parking lot at the Amirsoy ski resort, but only for the folks in the first taxi up. Another was seen during our walk to the first artesian spring we visited at Charyn Canyon, and another was perched on a rock as we drove up to the Chon-Ashuu Pass. (UZ KZ, KG)

BLACK KITE (BLACK-EARED) (Milvus migrans lineatus)

We started seeing these in the Charyn Canyon region, then had them daily in small numbers throughout the rest of the tour. (KZ, KG)

LONG-LEGGED BUZZARD (Buteo rufinus)

The common Buteo throughout Central Asia, and we had small numbers throughout, beginning with a dark morph bird carrying a ground squirrel in its talons at Jizzakh, en route to Samarkand, and another with a lizard a couple of days later on the way to Bukhara. (UZ, KZ)

UPLAND BUZZARD (Buteo hemilasius)

A large-bodied, dark morph, bird of prey in the Taukum Desert was identified by Machiel as this scarce species, which was flagged as "Rare" on our Ebird list. Having a couple of Long-legged Buzzards nearby allowed for a good size comparison; this bird was clearly bigger and heavier, and more eagle-like in structure. (KZ)

Strigidae (Owls)

EURASIAN SCOPS-OWL (Otus scops)

Recorded only on the grounds of the hunting lodge at the Charyn Canyon, and we made quick work of seeing one on our only attempt, with a bird in view probably within a minute of the start of our attempt! (KZ)

LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)

Don spotted our only one as we scanned for bustards in the open grasslands on our way to the Jeyran Eco-Center, though I also saw one fly across in front of our van in the wee hours of the morning as we headed to Barskoon. (UZ, KG)

Upupidae (Hoopoes)

EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)

It's always a pleasure to see this spectacular bird, and we had a few good sightings scattered through the tour, including our first in an oasis in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert and some nice looks at one or two at Kanshengel, near the water hole. (UZ, KZ)

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)

Seen only in flight at the Jeyran Eco-Center, but that brilliant turquoise back and rump left no question as to the bird's identity! (UZ)

Meropidae (Bee-eaters)

BLUE-CHEEKED BEE-EATER (Merops persicus)

A bird we were expecting to pick up at the Jeyran Eco-Center, but the only one we saw was perched on a fence at the spot we stopped to scan for bustards on our way there. Lucky we got that one! (UZ)

EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)

Primarily seen in Uzbekistan, where we had small numbers nearly daily, after which we had just two sightings, a pair at Kanshengel Village, and a single bird at Maishukur Village in the Korgalzhyn area. (UZ, KZ)

Coraciidae (Rollers)

EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)

Widespread, and seen most days, though seemed most numerous in Uzbekistan, where we had daily sightings. Many of our sightings were during the drives, including our only one in Kyrgyzstan, seen as we drove along the shores of the immense Lake Issyk Kul on our way to Barskoon. (UZ, KZ, KG)

Picidae (Woodpeckers)

WHITE-WINGED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos leucopterus)

Our first in the Takhta-Karacha Pass showed beautifully as it flew by a couple of times and perched on fenceposts below our vantage point. Unfortunately, one of our 4X4 drivers had not stopped with the rest of us, and his passengers missed that bird as a result. They had a long wait until we finally connected with these again, but we did have fabulous looks at a pair near a nest hole in the Turanga poplar stand in the Zheltorangy region north of our yurt camp. (UZ, KZ)

Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)

LESSER KESTREL (Falco naumanni)

A bird that flew over during a roadside stop near Jizzakh was identified as this species only because of Maxim's photo, as it wasn't a great view. We had far better views of half a dozen or more at a Rosy Starling colony at a cemetery as we returned from Kyrgyzstan. I think most even were able to make out their diagnostic pale claws through the scope! (UZ, KZ)

EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)

This widespread Palearctic species was the most common falcon on the tour, with scattered records throughout, though it was most numerous on the latter half of the trip. (UZ, KZ, KG)

RED-FOOTED FALCON (Falco vespertinus)

this handsome falcon is an uncommon breeding bird in the northern steppe regions. We saw three birds, 2 males and a female, along the roadside west of Astana on our first afternoon in the north, then had a few more sightings over the next couple of days. UZ, KZ, KG)

MERLIN (Falco columbarius) [N]

I may have been the only person to have missed the first one after I'd moved to try to get a better angle during our snowcock search along the Barskoon mining road. This bird almost certainly belonged to the subspecies lymani, which breeds in the Central Asian mountains. Later near Korgalzhyn Village, Machiel showed us a pair of the subspecies pallidus at their nest near the shores of one of the larger lakes. (KG, KZ)

EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)

Our first was a bird being mobbed by a quartet of Rooks as we searched for wheatears in the Jizzakh Pass, but we had better views of a pair perched on a fence-line at the Takhta-Karacha Pass the following day. Our only other sightings were several birds on our first afternoon on the Astana region. (UZ, KZ)

Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)

INDIAN GOLDEN ORIOLE (Oriolus kundoo)

All three of our sightings came on the same morning in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, where we first worked hard to get a few glimpses of an elusive pair in a small grove of trees around an abandoned farmhouse, with the birds flying off across the desert before they'd really given satisfactory views. At our next stop, we found a number of migrants around a small waterhole at another farmhouse, and there we had pretty decent, though brief, views of another oriole flying across the desert towards the oasis. (UZ)

Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers)

INDIAN PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (Terpsiphone paradisi)

A couple of birds in the wooded valley at Galvasay were our only ones, but they were as elusive as the orioles, only giving us a couple of looks as they flew across the track, and never remaining in the open for more than a second or two. (UZ)

Laniidae (Shrikes)

RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)

A migrant species through much of the region. Our only records were of three birds at a couple of different stops in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert. (UZ)

RED-TAILED SHRIKE (Lanius phoenicuroides)

The most numerous shrike of the tour, with scattered records across all three countries, though most of ours were tallied in Kazakhstan. Seen first along the roadside at the Takhta-Karacha Pass, and we also had a pair at the Corn Crake spot shortly after we arrived in Kyrgyzstan. This is called Turkestan Shrike in the Central Asia Field Guide. (UZ, KZ, KG)

LONG-TAILED SHRIKE (Lanius schach)

I wasn't expecting this species to be as scarce and local as it turned out to be, but we saw only one, which Amy spotted on some roadside power lines as we were driving back towards Tashkent after our ay on the Chimgan Hills. (UZ)

GREAT GRAY SHRIKE (STEPPE) (Lanius excubitor pallidirostris)

We also had just one of these shrikes, at a known nesting site along the road to the north of Kanshengel. This is treated as a separate species in the field guide, where it's called Asian Grey Shrike. (KZ)

LESSER GRAY SHRIKE (Lanius minor)

One was seen by a few folks at one of the oasis stops in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, but the bird vanished behind a dune before everyone got a chance to see it. Later we had poor views of a distant pair as we stopped to search for bustards east of Almaty, then far better looks at a pair in the small copse of trees at the ranger station where we ate our lunch before walking to the artesian well. (UZ, KZ)

Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)

EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)

Very common and seen on all but just a couple of days of the tour. (UZ, KZ, KG)

TURKESTAN GROUND-JAY (Podoces panderi)

Our main target in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, and we had superb studies of probably 5 different individuals at Maxim's go-to spot! We were pretty lucky as this was apparently a very good year for these birds, which are apparently a lot trickier and take a lot more work most years. Though no one chose this as their top bird, it got enough votes to put it in third place overall. (UZ)

RED-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)

The more numerous of the two choughs in the Tien Shan Mountains, and the more likely species to be seen in the lower elevation areas. Especially numerous along the Barskoon mining road. (KG)

YELLOW-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax graculus)

Generally remains at higher elevations than the above, though they do overlap, and we did see them together along the Barskoon road. We also had about 15-20 in the upper stretches of the Chon-Ashuu Pass. (KG)

EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)

A common, widespread Corvid that we saw most days. The subspecies here, soemmerringii, differs from other forms in having a whitish half collar. (UZ, KZ, KG)

ROOK (Corvus frugilegus) [N]

Probably the most numerous bird of the trip, seen almost daily, and with several hundreds of them on some days. This included several huge rookeries, with one in a dangerous spot along the highway in Kyrgyzstan, where the remains of 100+ fledglings littered the road. (UZ, KZ, KG)

CARRION CROW (Corvus corone)

Much less numerous than the above two species, but by no means uncommon. Carrion Crows appeared to favor upland regions and were only seen once we started climbing out of the lowlands and desert areas. (UZ, KZ, KG)

HOODED CROW (Corvus cornix)

At this time of year, found only in the northern steppe region, where we saw a handful of pairs daily around Astana. (KZ)

BROWN-NECKED RAVEN (Corvus ruficollis)

Very similar to the next species, replacing it in drier, desert regions. Quite numerous in the Taukum Desert, and we managed to get close enough to one group that we could actually see make out the obscure brown wash to their necks. (KZ)

COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)

Surprisingly uncommon, or maybe just overlooked. We saw single birds at the Takhta-Karacha Pass, Galvasay, and along the Barskoon mining road. (UZ, KG)

Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)

COAL TIT (Periparus ater) [*]

We heard these at a couple of spots in the Tien Shan Mountains, but never laid eyes on them. (KG)

RUFOUS-NAPED TIT (Periparus rufonuchalis)

A local species, restricted to mountain regions from Central Asia to Nepal, and on our tour route, only likely in the Chimgan Hills of eastern Uzbekistan. Maxim knew of a spot for them, and managed to pull in a single bird for some excellent looks. (UZ)

AZURE TIT (Cyanistes cyanus)

These lovely tits were common around the grounds of our Charyn Canyon hunting lodge, where we had some great looks. Elsewhere, we only heard them. (KZ)

AZURE TIT (YELLOW-BREASTED) (Cyanistes cyanus flavipectus)

This distinctive form, sometimes treated as a separate species, was the one we saw in Uzbekistan. Our first was in a wooded area below the Takhta-Karacha Pass, but they were most numerous in the Chimgan Hills. (UZ)

GREAT TIT (GREAT) (Parus major major)

This familiar Eurasian bird was quite numerous at the hunting lodge in the Charyn Canyon area, where they and the Azure Tits were easily stirred up by pishing. (KZ)

GREAT TIT (TURKESTAN) (Parus major bokharensis)

This distinctive form was the one we saw in Uzbekistan, where we first ran into it in the wooded area below the Takhta-Karacha Pass. (UZ)

Remizidae (Penduline-Tits)

WHITE-CROWNED PENDULINE-TIT (Remiz coronatus) [N]

One of the most responsive birds of the trip! Maxim stopped at a seemingly random spot along a canal as we drove from Samarkand to Bukhara, played a little of its song, and a bird appeared from across the canal, and nearly landed on him. We later saw another pair working on a nest along the track at Galvasay, and finally, a single bird on the hot afternoon visit to Kaskelen NP. (UZ, KZ)

Alaudidae (Larks)

HORNED LARK (BRANDT'S) (Eremophila alpestris brandti)

This very pale form of this widespread species is endemic to Central Asia. we had good scope views of our only pair, perched on a ridge overlooking the sheep-infested waterhole at Sogeti. (KZ)

GREATER SHORT-TOED LARK (Calandrella brachydactyla)

Several confusingly similar larks are found here, and good looks can be essential in sorting them out. Short primary projection, nearly unstreaked underparts, and dark patches on the sides of the neck are good features to identify this one, and we were able to see them well on a bird in the desert scrub near the Charyn Canyon. (KZ)

HUME'S LARK (Calandrella acutirostris)

Voice and montane habitat are helpful in separating this local species from the similar species above. The Takhta-Karacha Pass is the only site on the tour for this species, and we found a singing/displaying bird there, though a couple of folks were unable to pick it out as it performed a display flight high above the grassy hilltop. (UZ)

CALANDRA LARK (Melanocorypha calandra)

This bulky lark is pretty easy to identify, not just by its size, but also its blackish underwings with a bold and conspicuous white trailing edge. A very common bird in the Taukum Desert, the only place that we saw them. (KZ)

BLACK LARK (Melanocorypha yeltoniensis)

This fantastic, distinctive lark was pleasingly common and easy to see in the northern steppes around the Korgalzhyn Reserve, and we had great views of 50+ on our day trip to the reserve. The slow-motion butterfly-like display flight was especially enjoyable to watch! (KZ)

TURKESTAN SHORT-TOED LARK (Alaudala heinei)

A fairly recent split from Asian Short-toed Lark, this species was quite numerous in the Taukum Desert. Though Asian Short-toed Lark is still sometimes reported from this region, it seems that they are likely rare, at best. (KZ)

WHITE-WINGED LARK (Alauda leucoptera)

Another specialty of the northern steppes, though far less numerous than the Black Lark. We only tallied about half a dozen on our visit to Korgalzhyn, but had nice views of them displaying overhead, where their distinct wing pattern made them easy to identify. (KZ)

EURASIAN SKYLARK (Alauda arvensis)

Very common in the foothill grasslands in the vicinity of the KZ-KG border region, as well as the northern steppes. (KZ)

ORIENTAL SKYLARK (Alauda gulgula)

Maxim picked one out at the Jeyran Eco-Center that a few people were able to get on amidst the many Crested Larks. (UZ)

CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)

This big, distinctive lark was the most commonly seen lark in Uzbekistan, and was also quite numerous in the Taukum Desert, including right in our camp. (UZ, KZ)

Acrocephalidae (Reed Warblers and Allies)

BOOTED WARBLER (Iduna caligata)

One of several confusingly similar warblers in the region. Best told by its song, and a combination of other factors, including the relatively short bill, shorter than in any other similar species that occur here. Quite common in the Astana region, where we had all our records. (KZ)

SYKES'S WARBLER (Iduna rama)

Very similar to the above, but with a longer bill, shorter primary projection, and different song. We had good looks at a couple at the Jeyran Eco-Center, and a couple more in the Taukum Desert region. (UZ, KZ)

EASTERN OLIVACEOUS WARBLER (Iduna pallida)

Quite similar to the above species, but with a distinct pale wing panel, and a tendency to pump its tail in a downward motion. We had just one in the wooded area below the Takhta-Karacha Pass. (UZ)

SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)

One of the more distinctive of the region's Acrocephalus warblers, this one has a broad pale eyebrow, quite boldly streaked upperparts, and rather short tail. We had fantastic views of a couple in a partially flooded, shrubby field west of Astana. (KZ)

PADDYFIELD WARBLER (Acrocephalus agricola)

Our only sighting was of a migrant hopping around on the ground at one of the oasis stops in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, though we also heard one at Lake Taldykol. (UZ, KZ)

BLYTH'S REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus dumetorum)

By far the most common migrant Acrocephalus of the tour, these flat-headed warblers were seen and heard regularly through much of the tour, including at some of the cultural sites in Samarkand. (UZ, KZ)

COMMON REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)

Very similar to the above, though with longer primary projection and a couple of other minor differences that can be hard to discern in the field. There were 2 or 3 of these, along with several similar Blyth's Reed Warblers, at the Kanshengel waterhole; Machiel's experience with these was critical in identifying them. (KZ)

GREAT REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)

These large reed warblers were mainly just heard during our picnic lunch at Zhalanash Lake, and we finally caught up with some good views of several at Small Taldykol Lake, where they were quite numerous and very vocal. (KZ)

CLAMOROUS REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus stentoreus)

We had a pair of territorial birds at a small marsh at the Jeyran Eco-Center, where the very similar Great Reed Warbler only occurs as a migrant, making this a relatively easy identification. (UZ)

Locustellidae (Grassbirds and Allies)

PALLAS'S GRASSHOPPER WARBLER (Helopsaltes certhiola)

A scarce and local breeder in the far eastern part of the region, and Machiel was excited to hear that one of his guides had found one on territory in Kyrgyzstan. When we arrived at the site, we initially got no response, so we sat down and enjoyed our picnic lunch, then spent some time working on a Corn Crake that had begun calling nearby. It was only after we’d finished with the crake and were just about back at the vans when I finally heard this species sing. Then it was just a matter of a single phrase of playback before the bird was up in the open for all to see! (KG)

COMMON GRASSHOPPER WARBLER (Locustella naevia)

A roadside stop we made to search for Pallas's Grasshopper Warbler shortly after entering Kyrgyzstan initially produced a couple of these, but not the intended target. Not everyone saw these birds well, but we caught them up with good scope views of a singing bird at the Karasu River on our final morning. (KG, KZ)

Hirundinidae (Swallows)

BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)

Extremely similar to the next species and there seems to be considerable overlap between the two. There could have easily been some mixed in with the Pale Martins at the colony in Uzbekistan. We saw our first certain one during a photo stop on our way back from Karakol, then had small numbers daily in the Astana region. (KG, KZ)

PALE MARTIN (Riparia diluta)

A tough ID, as these are so similar to Bank Swallow, but given that our local guide, Maxim is one of the top, if not the top, ornithologist in the country, I think we can defer to his experience and agree that the colony we saw during a roadside stop on our way to Bukhara, with others seen in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert. Personally, I'm not entirely convinced this should be treated as a separate species, and won't be surprised if it soon receives the "redpoll" treatment! (UZ)

BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)

A familiar species, though they appear much paler below than our North American birds, as it is the whitish-bellied nominate subspecies that occurs here. By far the most numerous swallow, and we saw them nearly every day. (UZ, KZ, KG)

WESTERN HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)

A few birds were seen on our day of birding east of Tashkent, otherwise only recorded at the Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan border crossing, where we managed to tally them in both countries. (UZ, KZ, KG)

RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (Cecropis daurica)

We saw these only on our day east of Tashkent, including several birds gathering mud at a roadside puddle at the Amirsoy ski resort. The birds we saw did not have very red rumps, but rather a pale buff. (UZ)

Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)

HUME'S WARBLER (Phylloscopus humei)

Phylloscopus warblers are a notoriously difficult group of birds to identify, though they are relatively straightforward here, as there aren't that many regularly-occurring species to deal with. This one was by far the most common, especially in the mountains, though there were a few birds, probably migrants, at the little oasis in Kanshengel. (UZ, KZ, KG)

SULPHUR-BELLIED WARBLER (Phylloscopus griseolus)

A pretty distinctive leaf-warbler, being very yellow below, and lacking any wing bars. We saw these only high in the Tien Shan Mountains, where we had nice looks at several birds, often foraging on the ground, or hopping through boulder fields. (KG)

COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (SIBERIAN) (Phylloscopus collybita tristis)

A single bird was seen at a little farm not for from our yurt camp in the Taukum Desert. (KZ)

GREENISH WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochiloides)

The second most common Phylloscopus, told from the similar Hume's Warbler. This is an overall cleaner looking bird, generally lacking a second wing bar and with a paler lower mandible than Hume's. Amy and I saw one on the grounds of the hunting camp at the Charyn Canyon, and one or two others were at the oasis at Kanshengel, while we also heard several in the lower parts of the Chon-Ashuu Pass and the Barskoon mine road. (KZ, KG)

Scotocercidae (Bush Warblers and Allies)

SCRUB WARBLER (Scotocerca inquieta)

We struggled a bit trying to find this elusive species in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, but eventually caught up with a reasonably cooperative pair at our final stop before returning to Bukhara. (UZ)

CETTI'S WARBLER (Cettia cetti) [*]

We heard the distinct, explosive song of this species during a stop below the Takhta-Karacha Pass, and again during a roadside stop on our way out to the Korgalzhyn Reserve, but were unable to lure out one of these skulkers. (UZ, KZ)

Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers and Allies)

LESSER WHITETHROAT (CURRUCA/BLYTHI) (Curruca curruca blythi)

This is the subspecies that breeds across the northern steppe region. We saw one on our final morning along the Karasu River. (KZ)

LESSER WHITETHROAT (HALIMODENDRI) (Curruca curruca halimodendri)

We saw three very similar subspecies of this warbler, separated mainly by range, elevation, and habitat. This one prefers dry, desert habitats at lower elevations. We saw them in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, in desert scrub in the Charyn Canyon area, and in the Taukum Desert. (UZ, KZ)

LESSER WHITETHROAT (HUME'S) (Curruca curruca althaea)

The birds we saw well in the alpine scrub at the Amirsoy ski resort were this subspecies. (UZ)

EASTERN ORPHEAN WARBLER (Curruca crassirostris)

Pretty good looks at a somewhat furtive pair foraging low in the shrubbery of the Takhta-Karacha Pass. (UZ)

ASIAN DESERT WARBLER (Curruca nana)

After a couple of unsuccessful initial attempts to find this species, we finally tracked down a trio of them in a scrubby wadi near the Charyn Canyon for some great looks. (KZ)

MENETRIES'S WARBLER (Curruca mystacea)

Especially good looks at the first of three birds at the Jeyran Eco-Center, that one showing well at the start of the sandy track we walked along for quite a distance. (UZ)

GREATER WHITETHROAT (Curruca communis)

Single birds were seen on three different days in Kyrgyzstan, with another lone bird at Lake Taldykol.

Troglodytidae (Wrens)

EURASIAN WREN (Troglodytes troglodytes)

Fantastic looks at our only pair, in mixed forest in the lower stretches of the Chon-Ashuu Pass. The birds here are of the subspecies tianschanicus, and appeared significantly paler than birds I've seen elsewhere. (KG)

Sturnidae (Starlings)

EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)

Not as numerous as we may have expected, and missed on many days, with the majority of our sightings coming from the area between Almaty and the Taukum Desert. (UZ, KZ, KG)

ROSY STARLING (Pastor roseus) [N]

One of the highlights of the trip was our stop at a cemetery on our way back from Karakol to Almaty, where a huge colony, some 500+ of these attractive, jaunty-crested starlings were nesting in the crevices and cracks of a dry stone wall. The birds were more intent on courtship then concerned with our presence, and we were able to get quite close to them for some wonderful photo ops. Eva was especially impressed with these, and chose them as her #1.(KZ)

COMMON MYNA (Acridotheres tristis)

Widespread and common throughout the trip, except in the far north. Often seen carrying leaves around, presumably to line their nests, though we never saw a bird actually enter a nest with one. (UZ, KZ, KG)

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)

MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus)

A few birds were well seen, mainly in the upper reaches of the Chon-Ashuu Pass. The subspecies here, bonapartei, is quite pale-looking, and pretty different from the ones I'm used to encountering in Europe. (KG)

EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)

Recorded in small numbers on about half the days of the tour, though rarely in the areas we were birding, as most birds were seen and/or heard in the cities, often around our hotels. (UZ, KZ, KG)

FIELDFARE (Turdus pilaris)

Our final new bird of the trip, seen as we walked through the grounds of the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation on our city tour of Astana. (KZ)

Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)

SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)

First seen in the wooded area below the Takhta-Karacha Pass, with a couple of others, presumably migrants, at one of the oases stops in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, and a single bird at Kanshengel. (UZ, KZ)

RUFOUS-TAILED SCRUB-ROBIN (Cercotrichas galactotes)

The only member of this predominately African group of birds to make it into Central Asia, this species is quite widespread in scrubby desert regions. We had great looks at a couple of territorial birds singing from atop tall shrubs at the Jeyran Eco-Center, and another north of Kanshengel. (UZ, KZ)

WHITE-THROATED ROBIN (Irania gutturalis)

We found our lone bird, a male, on the scrubby hillsides of the Takhta-Karacha Pass, where it was furtive, but responsive, and we all ended up with several good views, though I don't think anyone managed a photo. (UZ)

COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos)

These renowned songsters can be difficult to spot on their song perches, so I was more than a little pleased to find one with little effort on our first attempt, in the wooded area below the Takhta-Karacha Pass. Every one of our subsequent records were heard-only birds. (UZ, KZ)

BLUETHROAT (Luscinia svecica) [N]

These handsome birds proved to be quite common, and not at all hard to see, in the Astana region. Our first was a male bringing food to a well-concealed nest beside a small lake at Korgalzhyn. We worked a bit to get a decent view of him, then found them to be fairly numerous at the Karasu River and Lake Taldykol the next morning. The birds here belong to the subspecies pallidogularis, one of the Red-spotted forms. Lane picked this species as his top bird of the tour. (KZ)

BLUE WHISTLING-THRUSH (Myophonus caeruleus)

Good scope views of a bird singing from a treetop in the lower stretches of the Chon-Ashuu Pass, then even better views (no scope needed!) of a close bird along the stream at Kaskelen NP. his handsome bird was Daryl's favorite of the tour. (KG, KZ)

HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT (Calliope pectoralis)

This gorgeous bird got enough votes to put it as the runner up for bird of the trip, including first place selections from both Kirsten and Ed. We had several excellent looks at these beauties in the higher parts of the Tien Shan Mountains. (KG)

RUFOUS-BACKED REDSTART (Phoenicurus erythronotus)

A Central Asian specialty, these attractive redstarts were also seen only high in the Tien Shan Mountains, where we had nice looks at a handful of them both in the Chon-Ashuu Pass and along the Barskoon mine road. (KG)

BLUE-CAPPED REDSTART (Phoenicurus coeruleocephala)

A unique redstart, with the male lacking any reddish in its plumage, though the female does have a reddish-brown rump. As with the above two species, we saw this montane species only high in the TIen Shan Mountains. (KG)

WHITE-WINGED REDSTART (Phoenicurus erythrogastrus)

Aka Guldenstadt's Redstart. This striking bird was once again seen only high in the mountains, and we had fine views of two separate males along the Barskoon mine road. (KG)

BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)

Though a much more widespread species than any of the above 4 birds, we also saw this one only in the Tien Shan Mountains, along the lower stretches of the Barskoon mine road. The subspecies here is phoenicuroides, part of the Eastern subgroup. (KG)

RUFOUS-TAILED ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola saxatilis)

We had a just one of these, a beautiful male, (spotted by Don, I believe) perched high on the hill overlooking the artesian well at Sogeti. (KZ)

SIBERIAN STONECHAT (Saxicola maurus)

Our first was a male seen during a roadside stop as we headed up to the Chon-Ashuu Pass, and we saw a couple of others on our way back to Kazakhstan, but these birds were far more common in the northern steppes, where we saw them daily. (KG, KZ)

PIED BUSHCHAT (Saxicola caprata)

Somewhat surprisingly, to me at least, we saw just one of these, a male, at a roadside wetland stop on our drive to Bukhara. (UZ)

NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)

First seen at the gas station stop before crossing the border on the way to Karakol, followed by a few birds in the mountain passes of Kyrgyzstan. The birds in these regions belong to the subspecies libanotica. We also saw quite a few of the nominate subspecies in the Korgalzhyn area. (KZ, KG)

ISABELLINE WHEATEAR (Oenanthe isabellina)

A very common species throughout the dry regions of southern Kazakhstan, where we saw plenty of them, especially in the Taukum Desert. Somewhat surprisingly we failed to see any in Uzbekistan, though we did see a single bird on the Kyrgyzstan side of the birder crossing. (KZ, KG)

DESERT WHEATEAR (Oenanthe deserti)

Occurs together with the similarly colored Isabelline Wheatear, but easily separable by its contrasting black wings, and all black tail with just a small amount of white at the base. We managed to track down a couple of pairs in shrubby desert areas near the Charyn Canyon. (KZ)

PIED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe pleschanka)

We had a few scattered records of this species, starting with a male in the parking lot at our lunch stop in the Chimgan Hills, with a couple more males at the Charyn Canyon, and a couple of birds at the oasis at Kanshengel. (UZ, KZ)

FINSCH'S WHEATEAR (Oenanthe finschii)

Poor views of a very distant male during a stop on our way to the Takhta-Karacha Pass, then another male and two females at the pass. The male seemed to always be facing us, making it difficult to see the white on the mantle. The warm brown ear coverts of the females almost made them easier to identify. (UZ)

Prunellidae (Accentors)

BROWN ACCENTOR (Prunella fulvescens)

Just a couple of birds feeding among the large boulders high up along the Barskoon mine road. (KG)

BLACK-THROATED ACCENTOR (Prunella atrogularis)

We had nice views of these in the Chon-Ashuu Pass. (KG)

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

SAXAUL SPARROW (Passer ammodendri) [N]

The cover bird from the Central Asia field guide, this is quite a scarce and local species. We had fantastic looks at a pair that appeared to be attending a nest in the bus stop at Topar Village, then another in the Turanga Forest. We also saw one in a lone, large tree in the Taukum Desert, where Machiel says he's never had one before. (KZ)

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)

The nominate subspecies was the one seen around the Astana region. (KZ)

HOUSE SPARROW (INDIAN) (Passer domesticus bactrianus)

Quite numerous in Uzbekistan, where large numbers of them breed in the huge stick nests of all the White Storks. We also saw this type in the Charyn Canyon and around Kanshengel. (UZ, KZ)

SPANISH SPARROW (Passer hispaniolensis) [N]

A flock of Passer sparrows that flew by at the Jeyran Eco-Center were this species, according to Maxim, but no one got a good enough view to count them, so we had to wait until the Taukum Desert to get them. We ended up seeing them on three days in and around Kanshengel, where there was a large nesting colony. (KZ)

EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)

These were pretty widespread, mainly in towns and cities, but never very numerous, and often seen only as single birds or in pairs. (UZ, KZ, KG)

Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)

WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (BEEMA) (Motacilla flava beema)

Males of this subspecies have a pale gray head with white eyebrows and throat. This was the breeding subspecies in the northern steppes, where we saw plenty. (KZ)

WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (FELDEGG) (Motacilla flava feldegg)

Very different in appearance from the above, with this bird having solidly yellow underparts, including the throat, contrasting with a solidly black head. We saw just a handful in the Bukhara region, including great scope looks at our first one, a handsome male, at the roadside wetlands on our way to the city. (UZ)

CITRINE WAGTAIL (GRAY-BACKED) (Motacilla citreola citreola)

This gray-backed subspecies is the one that breeds in the northern steppes, where we saw a pair in one of the wetlands at Korgalzhyn. A couple of birds seen in cropland during a photography stop as we were on our out of Kyrgyzstan were certainly latish migrants. (KZ, KG)

CITRINE WAGTAIL (BLACK-BACKED) (Motacilla citreola calcarata)

All three of the Citrine Wagtails seen in Uzbekistan, a pair in the roadside marsh en route to Bukhara, and a single male along the Chirchik River east of Tashkent, were this black-backed subspecies. (UZ)

WHITE WAGTAIL (MASKED) (Motacilla alba personata) [N]

This is the expected breeding subspecies throughout this region, though subspecies dukhunensis (part of the "White-faced" group) was a possibility in the northern steppes. We saw them daily in small numbers in Uzbekistan, with very few overall in the other two countries. This included a pair feeding their hungry nestlings in a nest at the peak of one of the picnic shelters at a roadside stop on our way back to Almaty. The birds seemed to be torn between foraging for grasshoppers on the hot pavement and fussing about the cat sitting in the rafters of the shelter. (UZ, KZ, KG)

TAWNY PIPIT (Anthus campestris) [N]

The most widespread breeding pipit in the region. We had great looks at a pair gathering food to deliver to their hungry brood in the Takhta-Karacha Pass, with a handful of others at scattered sites near Almaty and Astana. (UZ, KZ)

WATER PIPIT (BLAKISTON'S) (Anthus spinoletta blakistoni)

A small number of these were seen in mountain meadows in the Chon-Ashuu Pass. This subspecies is pretty much restricted to Central Asia. (KG)

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)

BRAMBLING (Fringilla montifringilla)

Though bramblings are regular wintering birds across Kazakhstan, they should all be well north of the country by June, so it was a real nice surprise to find a snazzy male at the waterhole at Kanshengel! (KZ)

WHITE-WINGED GROSBEAK (Mycerobas carnipes)

These chunky, attractive grosbeaks were fairly common in the Chon-Ashuu Pass, where we saw close to a dozen. (KG)

COMMON ROSEFINCH (Carpodacus erythrinus)

Not many overall, and most of our records were of heard-only birds, though we did see a female at one of the oases in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, another female at the Kanshengel waterhole, and a male in the TIen Shan Mountains. (UZ, KG, KZ)

RED-MANTLED ROSEFINCH (Carpodacus rhodochlamys)

According to Machiel, this is usually a pretty tough bird to find on this tour, and it's not unusual to miss them. But this was apparently a good year for them in the Tien Shan Mountains, and we had great looks at about half a dozen at both of the passes we visited there. (KG)

MONGOLIAN FINCH (Bucanetes mongolicus)

Seen only at the two artesian wells we staked out in the Sogeti region, but there were plenty of them at each, especially the first one, though we saw them nowhere else! (KZ)

PLAIN MOUNTAIN FINCH (Leucosticte nemoricola)

A rather drab, sparrow-like finch of high mountain regions. We had a small flock of them in the highest part of the Chon-Ashuu Pass that we reached, and many more the following day along the Barskoon mine road. (KG)

DESERT FINCH (Rhodospiza obsoleta)

I sort of expected this species to be a bit more numerous than it was, but we only saw three, at three different sites. We had one each at a couple of stops in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, then a single bird at Kanshengel. (UZ, KZ)

EURASIAN LINNET (Linaria cannabina)

A lone male showed up among the many Mongolian Finches at the first artesian well we visited at Sogeti, a pair at the second artesian well the following morning, and a quartet of birds were in the shrubby land at Lake Taldykol. This latter group was a bit of a surprise, as the field guide does not show this species as occurring in the northern steppe region. (KZ)

FIRE-FRONTED SERIN (Serinus pusillus)

Nice looks at a pair spotted upslope from the road as we drove down the Chon-Ashuu Pass, then limited success the next day as we tried to track down some more at the lower end of the Barskoon mine road. There were a couple of them there, and they did sit atop a nearby conifer a couple of times, but they never stuck around for long, sadly. (KG)

Emberizidae (Old World Buntings)

RED-HEADED BUNTING (Emberiza bruniceps)

Sue spotted our first, singing from atop a tree in the lush, green, Takhta-Karacha Pass, though this gave us a false idea of their preferred habitat, as the pass was unusually green, and this is really a bird of dry areas. Apart from the birds here, all our other sightings were from desert areas, including both the Kyzyl-Kum and Taukum deserts. (US. KZ)

CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)

Also seen first at the Takhta-Karacha Pass, then several times afterward, though with more of a preference for greener areas, including cultivation, than the species above. (UZ, KZ, KG)

ROCK BUNTING (Emberiza cia)

We came close to missing this one, but finally managed to turn up a singing male in the heat of the day at the Kokpek Pass. (KZ)

MEADOW BUNTING (Emberiza cioides)

The road we intended to take back to Almaty from the yurt camp had been badly damaged due to flooding, so we changed plans and took the good highway, which left us enough time to make a stop in Kaskelen National Park. Though the park was crowded with weekend visitors, and the middle of the day was hit and sunny, we ultimately were able to coax a gorgeous male to get up and sing, which gave us all excellent looks and photo ops! (KZ)

WHITE-CAPPED BUNTING (Emberiza stewarti)

Our third species of bunting in the Takhta-Karacha Pass, this Central Asia specialty showed beautifully there, but unlike the other two species, was never seen again. (UZ)

PINE BUNTING (Emberiza leucocephalos)

Another rather local species on the tour, and our only ones were a couple of birds in farmland on our way up to the Chon-Ashuu Pass. They were very cooperative, though, posing and singing from various perches--boulders, shrubs, and roadside power lines, giving us all fabulous looks. (KG)

GRAY-NECKED BUNTING (Emberiza buchanani)

Quite a few of these were in the grasslands at the base of the hills during the walk to the artesian well at Sogeti, with a couple of birds showing nicely as they came in to drink. We had only one more after that, a single bird at the spring we visited the following morning. (KZ)

REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus pyrrhuloides)

We found a handful of these in the Astana area on our final morning of birding. (KZ)


MAMMALS

EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus)

I have this marked down for the day we went up to the Turanga forest, but I can't quite remember where we saw it. I suspect it was Machiel that identified it, as this and the next species look pretty similar. (KZ)

TOLAI HARE (Lepus tolai)

This is the common, widespread hare of the dry desert regions. We saw a few in the Charyn Canyon region, and the Taukum Desert, as well as one in the valley as we headed up to the Chon-Ashuu Pass. (KZ, KG)

BOBAK MARMOT (Marmota bobak)

This is the species of marmot found in the northern steppes, where we saw just a single one on our trip out to Korgalzhyn. (KZ)

GRAY MARMOT (Marmota baibacina)

The more common of the two marmots in the Tien Shan Mountains, though I certainly wouldn't call them gray! We saw plenty in both of the high mountain passes. (KG)

LONG-TAILED MARMOT (Marmota caudata)

The golden-brown coloring and long tail separated this one from the more common Gray Marmot. We saw just a few of these along the Barskoon mine road. (KG)

YELLOW GROUND SQUIRREL (Spermophilus fulvus)

The common ground squirrel of the region, and the only species we definitely saw, including one in the talons of a Long-legged Buzzard! I see that we marked this species for the last morning around Astana, but a check through iNat suggests that this species would be out of range there, and it is more likely we saw Red-cheeked Ground-Squirrel there. (UZ, KZ)

EUROPEAN RED SQUIRREL (Sciurus vulgaris)

Kirsten saw one from the van as we drove through one of the villages on our way back to Karakol from Barskoon. (KG)

MUSKRAT (Ondatra zibethica) [I]

A couple of these were seen on the day we drove to Karakol. I can't recall exactly where, but probably in those roadside ponds in the town of Tyup. (KG)

MID-DAY GERBIL (JIRD) (Meriones meridianus)

Incredible looks at a pair of these during a night walk at the yurt camp! Initially they were a bit wary, keeping some distance from us, but after everyone else returned to camp, Don, Kathleen, and I refound one, and had a great time watching as it hunted the many lacewings that were attracted to my spotlight, allowing to observe it from just a few feet away. Another jird I saw run across the highway near the Charyn Canyon was most likely the similar, diurnal Red-tailed, (Libyan) Jird. (KZ)

SMALL FIVE-TOED JERBOA (Allactaga elater)

Our night walk hadn't even started when Don, who was sitting in from of his yurt, announced that there was a jerboa under his chair! Sure enough, one of these charming rodents hopped out from below, and we all wound up with incredible close views, making the several others we saw around camp superfluous, though still much appreciated! (KZ)

GREAT JERBOA (Allactaga major)

On our second night at the yurt camp, Kathleen had a quick look at what appeared to be a larger jerboa than the one we’d seen the night before, and wondered if they grew larger than what we’d seen. Later that night, when I brought some folks out to see the boa I’d found by the toilet, we spotted it again, and it was huge, and obviously not that same species. Instead, it was this, the largest of the jerboas, and those of us that were out got great looks at this fantastic beast, which was new, even for Machiel! (KZ)

RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)

A lone one was seen on the steppe across one of the lakes at Korgalzhyn. (KZ)

CORSAC FOX (Vulpes corsac)

As we looked for wheatears at Jizzakh Pass, we noticed a group of dogs ambling along the base of a hill, then suddenly start running up the hill in hot pursuit of something. We spotted an animal nearing the top of the hill, but couldn't tell what it was. But upon reaching the top, it circled back and started down towards us, leaving the puzzled dogs wondering where it got to. We ended up with lengthy views of it as it crossed in front of us and worked its way towards a small group of houses. Our only other ones were a very distant pair in the Taukum Desert. (UZ, KZ)

PRZEWALSKI’S HORSE (Equus ferus przewalskii)

Distant ones at the Jeyran Eco-Center, where they’ve been introduced to see how they adapt to living as wild animals. (UZ)

EASTERN ROE DEER (Capreolus pygargus)

One was calmly browsing on the hillside above us as we birded the lower stretches of the Chon-Ashuu Pass. (KG)

GOITERED GAZELLE (Gazella subgutturosa)

Our first were some distant ones in the fenced confines of the Jeyran Eco-Center, still wild but not quite as satisfying as the ones we saw later in the Taukum Desert, where no fences restricted their movements. (UZ, KZ)


HERPS

ALAI FALSE SNAKE-EYED SKINK (Ablepharus alaicus)

These were the small skinks along the stairway at the Amirsoy ski resort. (UZ)

TURKESTAN ROCK AGAMA (Paralaudakia lehmanni)

We saw a couple of these lizards in the Takhta-Karacha Pass, appropriately sitting up on some rocks. (UZ)

STEPPE AGAMA (Trapelus sanguinolentus)

Commonly seen in several desert regions, often sitting up atop straggly shrubs. (UZ, KZ)

DESERT SAND BOA (Eryx miliaris)

The slow-moving, blunt-tailed snake I found after dark near the toilet at the yurt camp. (KZ)

TESSELATED WATER SNAKE (Natrix tessellata)

Also known as Dice Snake. This one was swimming across the canal where we found our first penduline-tit (UZ)

HORSFIELD'S TORTOISE (Testudo horsfieldii)

Also known as Afghan Tortoise, this is a species of desert areas. We saw some in the Kyzyl-Kum and Taukum Deserts. (UZ, KZ)

EUROPEAN GREEN TOAD (Bufo viridis)

A couple in the marshy area at the Charyn Canyon hunting lodge. (KZ)

MARSH FROG (Pelophylax ridibundus)

Lots of these were in the same spot as the above. (KZ)

TURKESTAN THIN-TOED GECKO (Tenuidactylus fedtschenkoi)

This was the gecko we saw on the walls of the historic site we stopped at along the way from Samarkand to Bukhara. (UZ)

COMMON WONDER GECKO (Teratoscincus scincus)

These beautiful geckos were quite numerous on the sand dunes behind the yurt camp after dark. They were easily picked up at a distance from their incredibly bright eye shine, though oddly the shine was harder to see the closer we approached! (KZ)

RAPID RACERUNNER (Eremias velox)

Uzbekistan has 9 species of racerunner, with this one being by far the most commonly recorded. We saw several in the Kyzyl-Kum Desert and the Jeyran Eco-Center (KZ)


ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Though there were not a whole lot of Odonata on this trip, I was happy to pick up at least a handful of species. These are the ones I managed to identify:

Black Pennant (Selysiothemis nigra): This is the one we found perched out in the middle of the Kyzyl-Kum Desert, among other places.

Lesser Emperor (Anax parthenope) The large dragonfly with the pale blue saddle. Plenty were at the Jeyran Eco-center.

Southern Skimmer (Orthetrum brunneum): Our walk through the village of Aydarly didn't turn up many birds, but there was one of these pale blue beauties sitting along a little ditch at the edge of the park.

Slender Skimmer (Orthetrum sabina): These slim black and greenish dragons were numerous at Jeyran.

White-tailed Skimmer (Orthetrum albistylum): Medium-sized dragonfly with the basal 2/3 of the abdomen white and distal 1/3 black. Several at Lake Sorbulak, with probable females in the Turanga Forest.

Bladetail (Lindenia tetraphylla): Distinctive large dragon, mostly pale yellowish and black, with rusty patch at base of abdomen and broadened, blade-like tail. At Jeyran, one of the few iNat records for Uzbekistan.

Southern Darter (Sympetrum meridionale): The golden yellow female meadowhawk photographed at the farm near the yurt camp was most likely this species.

Four-spotted Skimmer (Libellula quadrimaculata): Lots of these around the lakes at Korgalzhyn. A familiar North American species as well.

Spiketail sp. (Cordulegaster coronata): Quite a surprise, as this large, black and yellow dragon flew in and landed in the shadow of the van as soon as we disembarked at the dry, desert-like Kokpek Canyon, where I was able to grab it and take several pics in hand. When I submitted this to iNat, it was the first record of this species so far east in the country, but since then, another photo from 2 weeks earlier was submitted, and it was from almost the exact same place!

Oasis Bluetail (Ischnura fountaineae): A small blue damsel with an obvious blue subterminal band on the abdomen. Seen at Jeyran.

Common Blue Damselfly (Enallagma cyathigerum) Small bluet which was quite numerous in the scrub around the lake at Korgalzhyn.

Red-eyed Damselfly (Erythromma najas) and unique-looking blue damsel with large red eyes. A few were in the scrub around the lake at Korgalzhyn.

Totals for the tour: 231 bird taxa and 16 mammal taxa