A Field Guides Birding Tours Report
WILD KENYA: A TENTED CAMP SAFARI (PRATHER FAMILY PRIVATE) 2024
June 1-16, 2024 with Terry Stevenson guiding
Our June 2024 Field Guides, Wild Kenya: A Tented Camp Safari was indeed a very special tour! It was planned at short notice and unusually for me (guide Terry Stevenson) all the participants were one family. In all my years with Field Guides it was my first time to lead a family group for two weeks of birding, mammal watching, a bit of down time, afternoon swim breaks and a serious bunch of fun!
It was a such pleasure to be with them all, ranging in age from 17 to 84! Of course with such a range of years there's going to be different interests, but that's what I loved – the birding, the "Let's go find a Cheetah" (even if it did mean a very long drive), spending time watching Elephant families and playful Banded Mongoose, a pair of Saddle-billed Storks right next to the car! Swimming breaks, bar time, or just veranda chats, all led to a great family tour.
We basically followed our well tried and tested route beginning at The Residences (Karen Country Club) and a day in Nairobi National Park – highlights here were Common Ostrich, the gorgeous Hartlaub's Turaco, Gray Crowned-Crane, Spotted Thick-knee, Marabou Stork (with the world largest wing-area), Hamerkop, Martial Eagle, Speckled Mousebird, Tropical Boubou, African Paradise-flycatcher, Gray-capped Warbler, both Red-billed and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, Scarlet-chested and Variable sunbirds, Quailfinch, and Purple Grenadier. Mammals were also very much enjoyed, with our first looks at Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Hippo, Common Giraffe, African Buffalo, Hartebeest and Impala.
The following day found us heading north to the Great Rift Valley (but not first without a brief stop for White-backed Duck) and then at Lake Naivasha for a quickly planned (but unscheduled) boat trip. Wherever possible, we try to be adaptable and fit in with yearly changing conditions, and this year Naivasha seemed like a good bet for adding a few species. So, with a small diversion we managed to spend a couple to hours there and the boat tour gave us close-up views of Yellow-billed Stork, both Great White and Pink-backed pelicans, African Fish-Eagle, Giant Kingfisher, and our first Lilac-breasted Rollers.
Soon getting back on our planned route we then spent two nights at Lake Elementaita Serena Camp – a very nice upmarket place with a relaxed attitude, great food, and fabulous views of thousands of Lesser Flamingos. While allowing time for an afternoon rest, or swim, we took morning and afternoon game drives, and one evening did a short night drive which are no longer allowed in other National Parks and Reserves. Elementaita highlights were not just standing on the shore next to many thousands of flamingos, but also a flying male Black-bellied Bustard, Red-chested Cuckoo, Montane Nightjar, Secretarybird, Long-crested Eagle, Crowned Hornbill, White-fronted Bee-eater, Chinspot Batis, White-bellied Tit, Arrow-marked and Black-lored babblers, African Thrush, Red-headed Weaver, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Red-billed Firefinch. Mammals included our first Black-backed Jackal, the rare Rothschild's Giraffe, and on the night drive, Springhare, Bat-eared Fox and Spotted Hyaena.
From the Rift Valley we then drove east, climbing back to the central highlands at Thomson's Falls. A lunch stop in a nice garden gave us a glorious male Tacazze Sunbird and then a short way beyond, local guide, Paul Muriithi, showed us a Cape Eagle-Owl. The latter part of the afternoon found us walking the gardens of Naro Moru River Lodge where we all enjoyed our first Tree Hyrax (they're quiet in the day), African Black-headed Oriole, Black-backed Puffback, Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike, Red-faced Crombec, Cabanis's Greenbul, and Northern Double-collared Sunbird.
Continuing to the north, we drove by Mount Kenya at 8000 feet and then dropped to around 3000 feet in the arid country at Samburu. Here we had three nights, giving us ample time for game drives along the Ewaso Nyiro River, through the Salvadora thickets, and in the Acacia bush country, dotted here and there with doum palms. As always, the wildlife was fabulous, with great close looks at Lion, African Bush Elephant, the rare Grevy's Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Beisa Oryx, Kirk's Dikdik and Gerenuk. Birding highlights were Somali Ostrich, Vulturine Guineafowl, Chestnut-bellied, Black-faced and Lichtenstein's sandgrouse, Kori Bustard, Palm-nut and Hooded vultures, Bateleur, Verreaux's Eagle, Verreaux's Eagle-Owl, White-headed Mousebird, Eastern Yellow-billed, Von der Decken's and Northern Red-billed hornbills, Somali Bee-eater, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Pygmy Falcon, Red-bellied Parrot, Rosy-patched Bushshrike, Taita Fiscal, Golden-breasted Starling, White-headed Buffalo-Weaver, Donaldson-Smith's Sparrow-Weaver, and Red-billed Quelea.
From hereon we returned south towards Nairobi, but with a stop in a totally different habitat along the way. During our one-night stay at The Ark in the Aberdare Mountains we added yet more species, including African Black Duck, Scaly Spurfowl, Red-fronted Parrot, endemic Hunter's Cisticola and Kikuyu White-eye, and Golden-winged Sunbird. New mammals included Slender Mongoose, Giant Forest Hog, Bushbuck, and Suni.
For our second stay in Nairobi we stayed at a different hotel – The Tamarind Tree, giving us easy access to Wilson Airport and our flight to Masai Mara the following morning. We then spent three nights at the famous Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp, again giving us plenty time to enjoy not just the camp and the friendly Blue and Black-cheeked White-nosed monkeys, but to also take daily drives in the open-sided safari vehicles. Although the grass was exceptionally long after the heaviest April and May rains for many years, we still had many great sightings, including eight Lions (with two big-maned males), a mother Cheetah and her four large young, Serval, 3 Black Rhino, more elephants, herds of Burchell's Zebra, Topi, Hartebeest, Impala and Thomson's Gazelle, and right by the camp itself a den of Spotted Hyaena, with all sizes from large mothers to intermediates, and small playful babies. The birdlife was fabulous too, with just a few of the highlights being Red-necked Spurfowl, African Green-Pigeon, White-bellied Bustard, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Temminck's Courser, Saddle-billed Stork, Dwarf Bittern, Lappet-faced Vulture, Southern Ground-hornbill, Rufous-necked Wryneck, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, African Blue-flycatcher, Mosque Swallow, Violet-backed Starling, Silverbird, and Rosy-throated Longclaw.
A forty-five minute lunch time flight back to Nairobi saved us hours of bumpy driving, and once there, day rooms awaited us with plenty time to shower and change before an early dinner and saying our goodbyes. Our local agent provided transfers to the airport for the international flights home and many fabulous memories of all the birds and mammals we'd seen, and of course Kenya's super friendly people.
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Struthionidae (Ostriches)
COMMON OSTRICH (Struthio camelus)
The worlds largest bird; we saw 6 in Nairobi NP, and about 35 at Masai Mara.
SOMALI OSTRICH (Struthio molybdophanes)
We saw several groups of this much more localized species at Samburu; with a total of about 40.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata)
Fourteen at Masai Mara.
WHITE-BACKED DUCK (Thalassornis leuconotus)
Rather uncommon in Kenya so we were lucky to see a pair and 3 tiny young at Limuru Pond.
EGYPTIAN GOOSE (Alopochen aegyptiaca)
Common at wetlands throughout the tour; with a total of about 140.
AFRICAN BLACK DUCK (Anas sparsa)
One in daylight and then 4 more at night on the water hole at The Ark.
YELLOW-BILLED DUCK (Anas undulata)
Six at The Ark.
Numididae (Guineafowl)
HELMETED GUINEAFOWL (Numida meleagris)
Very common and widespread; with a total of about 320.
VULTURINE GUINEAFOWL (Acryllium vulturinum)
This strange looking guineafowl was common at Samburu where we saw about 100.
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
CRESTED FRANCOLIN (Ortygornis sephaena)
Small numbers in bush country at Nairobi NP, Elementaita, and Samburu; in all we saw about 50.
COMMON QUAIL (Coturnix coturnix)
One in the grassland near Lake Elementaita was quite a surprise!
HARLEQUIN QUAIL (Coturnix delegorguei)
We saw a single male during our last morning in Masai Mara.
SCALY SPURFOWL (Pternistis squamatus)
Good looks at 4 at The Ark.
YELLOW-NECKED SPURFOWL (Pternistis leucoscepus)
Two at Nairobi NP, and about 80 at Samburu.
RED-NECKED SPURFOWL (Pternistis afer)
Several small groups (some with small young) were seen at Masai Mara.
Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)
GREATER FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus roseus)
Nice looks at about 120 at Lake Elementaita.
LESSER FLAMINGO (Phoeniconaias minor)
A spectacular sight was many thousands of these flamingos at Lake Elementaita.
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
Singles at Limuru Pond, Lake Naivasha, and at Masai Mara.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
SPECKLED PIGEON (Columba guinea)
Small numbers at Nairobi, Naivasha, and at Masai Mara.
MOURNING COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decipiens)
Four at Samburu.
RED-EYED DOVE (Streptopelia semitorquata)
Fairly widespread in small numbers; in all we saw about 40.
RING-NECKED DOVE (Streptopelia capicola)
Common and widespread.
LAUGHING DOVE (Spilopelia senegalensis)
About a dozen at Samburu.
EMERALD-SPOTTED WOOD-DOVE (Turtur chalcospilos)
Common from Nairobi to elementaita and on to Samburu; in all we saw about 60.
BLUE-SPOTTED WOOD-DOVE (Turtur afer)
Some of our group saw 1 at Kichwa Tembo.
NAMAQUA DOVE (Oena capensis)
About 45 at Samburu.
AFRICAN GREEN-PIGEON (Treron calvus)
Two along the Oloololo Escarpment.
Pteroclidae (Sandgrouse)
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles exustus)
We saw a pair at Samburu.
BLACK-FACED SANDGROUSE (Pterocles decoratus)
Eight at Samburu.
LICHTENSTEIN'S SANDGROUSE (Pterocles lichtensteinii)
Uncommon in most of Kenya, so we were lucky to see 1 at Samburu.
Otididae (Bustards)
KORI BUSTARD (Ardeotis kori)
Eight at Samburu.
WHITE-BELLIED BUSTARD (Eupodotis senegalensis)
Nice looks at a single male at Masai Mara.
BLACK-BELLIED BUSTARD (Lissotis melanogaster)
We saw a male in flight at Elementaita, and then 2 females at Masai Mara.
Musophagidae (Turacos)
SCHALOW'S TURACO (Tauraco schalowi) [*]
Heard in the forest near Kichwa Tembo.
HARTLAUB'S TURACO (Tauraco hartlaubi) [E]
Great looks at about 6 at The Residences, Nairobi.
BARE-FACED GO-AWAY-BIRD (Crinifer personatus)
Two on the Oloololo Escarpment.
WHITE-BELLIED GO-AWAY-BIRD (Crinifer leucogaster)
Four in Nairobi NP, and a dozen at Samburu.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
WHITE-BROWED COUCAL (Centropus superciliosus)
Widespread in small numbers; with a total of about 30.
BLACK COUCAL (Centropus grillii)
Some of the group saw 1 at Masai Mara.
PIED CUCKOO (Clamator jacobinus)
One at Samburu.
KLAAS'S CUCKOO (Chrysococcyx klaas)
One flew over our heads calling at Gilgil.
RED-CHESTED CUCKOO (Cuculus solitarius)
Nice scope views at Elementaita.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
MONTANE NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus poliocephalus)
Three on our night drive at Elementaita.
Apodidae (Swifts)
MOTTLED SWIFT (Tachymarptis aequatorialis)
About 30 were drinking from the river at Samburu.
LITTLE SWIFT (Apus affinis)
Very common and widespread around cliffs, bridges, and buildings.
AFRICAN PALM SWIFT (Cypsiurus parvus)
Four at Elementaita, and 6 at Samburu.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
AFRICAN CRAKE (Crex egregia)
One was flushed at Samburu.
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
One at The Ark.
RED-KNOBBED COOT (Fulica cristata)
About a dozen at Limuru Pond.
BLACK CRAKE (Zapornia flavirostra)
Singles at Nairobi NP and Masai Mara.
Gruidae (Cranes)
GRAY CROWNED-CRANE (Balearica regulorum)
These gorgeous cranes were common at a variety of scattered wetlands; we saw a total of about 45.
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
SPOTTED THICK-KNEE (Burhinus capensis)
Four at Nairobi NP, and 1 at Masai Mara.
WATER THICK-KNEE (Burhinus vermiculatus)
One at Nairobi NP.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
THREE-BANDED PLOVER (Charadrius tricollaris)
One at Masai Mara.
LONG-TOED LAPWING (Vanellus crassirostris)
Two at Limuru Pond.
BLACKSMITH LAPWING (Vanellus armatus)
Widespread near some wetland areas; in all we saw about 50.
SPUR-WINGED LAPWING (Vanellus spinosus)
Another widespread lapwing which is often near water; we saw about 30.
BLACK-WINGED LAPWING (Vanellus melanopterus)
Two on the Masai Mara burnt grasslands.
CROWNED LAPWING (Vanellus coronatus)
This grassland species was widespread in small numbers.
WATTLED LAPWING (Vanellus senegallus)
Fourteen at Masai Mara.
KITTLITZ'S PLOVER (Anarhynchus pecuarius)
Fifteen along the shores of Lake Elementaita.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
AFRICAN JACANA (Actophilornis africanus)
Two distantly at Limuru Pond, and then much better looks at 4 at Masai Mara.
Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)
TEMMINCK'S COURSER (Cursorius temminckii)
Two at Masai Mara.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
GRAY-HOODED GULL (Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus)
Common at lakes Naivasha and Elementaita; in all we saw about 110.
GULL-BILLED TERN (Gelochelidon nilotica)
Four from the boat at Lake Naivasha.
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
Six in breeding plumage at Limuru Pond.
Ciconiidae (Storks)
AFRICAN OPENBILL (Anastomus lamelligerus)
Seven at Masai Mara.
AFRICAN WOOLLY-NECKED STORK (Ciconia microscelis)
One in flight at Masai Mara.
SADDLE-BILLED STORK (Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis)
Fabulous super close looks at a pair in Masai Mara.
MARABOU STORK (Leptoptilos crumenifer)
Twenty in the Nairobi area, 4 at Naivasha, and 20 at Masai Mara.
YELLOW-BILLED STORK (Mycteria ibis)
Twelve at Naivasha, and 6 at Masai Mara.
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
AFRICAN DARTER (Anhinga rufa)
Six at a dam in Nairobi NP.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
LONG-TAILED CORMORANT (Microcarbo africanus)
Eight at Nairobi NP, 20 at Naivasha, and 40+ at Masai Mara.
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Fifteen from the boat at Naivasha, and 4 at Elementaita.
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
GREAT WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus onocrotalus)
About 300 at Naivasha, another 200 at Elementaita and then another 100+ in flight there the following day.
PINK-BACKED PELICAN (Pelecanus rufescens)
Six from the boat at Lake Naivasha.
Scopidae (Hamerkop)
HAMERKOP (Scopus umbretta)
Six at Nairobi NP, 20 at Naivasha, and about 25 at Masai Mara.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
DWARF BITTERN (Ixobrychus sturmii)
Great looks at 2 singles at Masai Mara.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Three flying birds were seen at Masai Mara.
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
Twenty at Lake Naivasha.
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
Two singles at Masai Mara.
WESTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus ibis)
Common and widespread throughout the tour.
GREAT EGRET (AFRICAN) (Ardea alba melanorhynchos)
Widespread in small numbers at a variety of scattered wetlands; in all we saw about 65.
YELLOW-BILLED EGRET (Ardea brachyrhyncha)
Two at Naivasha, and 10 at Masai Mara.
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
One at Nairobi NP, 30 at Naivasha, and 6 at Masai Mara.
BLACK-HEADED HERON (Ardea melanocephala)
Widespread in grasslands, with a total of about 50.
GOLIATH HERON (Ardea goliath)
The world's largest heron; we saw 1 in flight at Masai Mara.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
One at Masai Mara.
AFRICAN SACRED IBIS (Threskiornis aethiopicus)
About 80 in the Nairobi area, 20 at Naivasha, 8 at Elementaita, and 60+ at Masai Mara.
HADADA IBIS (Bostrychia hagedash)
Common and widespread throughout the tour.
AFRICAN SPOONBILL (Platalea alba)
Singles at Naivasha and Elementaita.
Sagittariidae (Secretarybird)
SECRETARYBIRD (Sagittarius serpentarius)
Singles in the grasslands at Elementaita and Samburu.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
BLACK-WINGED KITE (Elanus caeruleus)
Small numbers in open country at Nairobi NP, Elementaita, and Samburu.
AFRICAN HARRIER-HAWK (Polyboroides typus)
We saw a single immature in the grounds of our camp at Elementaita.
PALM-NUT VULTURE (Gypohierax angolensis)
One at Samburu.
LAPPET-FACED VULTURE (Torgos tracheliotos)
Two at Masai Mara.
HOODED VULTURE (Necrosyrtes monachus)
Three at Samburu, and 1 at Masai Mara.
WHITE-BACKED VULTURE (Gyps africanus)
Small numbers at Nairobi NP, Samburu, and Masai Mara; in all we saw about 30.
BATELEUR (Terathopius ecaudatus)
Nine at Samburu, and 7 at Masai Mara.
BLACK-CHESTED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus pectoralis)
We saw a flying immature bird at Masai Mara.
MARTIAL EAGLE (Polemaetus bellicosus)
Good looks at immatures in Nairobi NP (1), and Elementaita (2), and then a beautiful adult at Samburu.
LONG-CRESTED EAGLE (Lophaetus occipitalis)
Two singles at Elementaita, and another 2 at Masai Mara.
BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus)
One at Samburu was unexpected for the time of year.
TAWNY EAGLE (Aquila rapax)
Surprisingly few; with just 4 at Samburu, and 1 at Masai Mara.
VERREAUX'S EAGLE (Aquila verreauxii)
One at Samburu.
DARK CHANTING-GOSHAWK (Melierax metabates)
Good looks at 3 at Masai Mara.
EASTERN CHANTING-GOSHAWK (Melierax poliopterus)
We saw a pair at a nest at Samburu.
GABAR GOSHAWK (Micronisus gabar)
One at Masai Mara.
BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans)
About 50 in the Nairobi area, 6 near The Ark, and 1 at Masai Mara.
AFRICAN FISH-EAGLE (Icthyophaga vocifer)
Two at Nairobi NP, 20 at Naivasha, 4 at Samburu, and 1 at Masai Mara.
AUGUR BUZZARD (Buteo augur)
Widespread in small numbers, with a total of 16.
Strigidae (Owls)
CAPE EAGLE-OWL (NORTHERN) (Bubo capensis mackinderi)
Thanks to local guide Paul we had good scope views of 1 in a quarry at Kiawara.
VERREAUX'S EAGLE-OWL (Ketupa lactea)
One and then 3 at Samburu.
Coliidae (Mousebirds)
SPECKLED MOUSEBIRD (Colius striatus)
Very common and widespread.
WHITE-HEADED MOUSEBIRD (Colius leucocephalus)
We saw about a dozen of this localized bird at Samburu.
BLUE-NAPED MOUSEBIRD (Urocolius macrourus)
Two at Samburu.
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)
One at Samburu.
Phoeniculidae (Woodhoopoes and Scimitarbills)
GREEN WOODHOOPOE (Phoeniculus purpureus)
Three were seen feeding on the underside of a large nest at Lake Naivasha.
Bucorvidae (Ground-Hornbills)
SOUTHERN GROUND-HORNBILL (Bucorvus leadbeateri)
Nice looks at 2 adults and a young one at Masai Mara.
Bucerotidae (Hornbills)
CROWNED HORNBILL (Lophoceros alboterminatus)
Two at elementaita, 1 at Naro Moru, and 1 near The Ark.
AFRICAN GRAY HORNBILL (Lophoceros nasutus)
Two at Samburu.
EASTERN YELLOW-BILLED HORNBILL (Tockus flavirostris)
Eight at Samburu.
VON DER DECKEN'S HORNBILL (Tockus deckeni)
We saw a single female at Samburu.
NORTHERN RED-BILLED HORNBILL (Tockus erythrorhynchus)
About 50 at Samburu.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
MALACHITE KINGFISHER (Corythornis cristatus)
Two in flooded grasslands at Masai Mara.
AFRICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Ispidina picta)
One on a roadside fence near the Mara River bridge.
GRAY-HEADED KINGFISHER (Halcyon leucocephala)
Seven at Samburu.
WOODLAND KINGFISHER (Halcyon senegalensis)
One along a forested stream at Masai Mara.
STRIPED KINGFISHER (Halcyon chelicuti)
One at Sagana Fish Ponds.
GIANT KINGFISHER (Megaceryle maxima)
Good looks at 2 as we finished our boat trip at Lake Naivasha.
PIED KINGFISHER (Ceryle rudis)
Thirty at Naivasha, and 1 at Masai Mara.
Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
WHITE-FRONTED BEE-EATER (Merops bullockoides)
About 20 in the grasslands around Lake Elementaita.
LITTLE BEE-EATER (Merops pusillus)
Six at Nairobi NP, 4 at Samburu, and 2 at Masai Mara.
CINNAMON-CHESTED BEE-EATER (Merops oreobates)
Six at Naro Moru, and 2 on the Oloololo Escarpment.
SOMALI BEE-EATER (Merops revoilii)
Nice looks at 2 of these northern 'desert' birds at Samburu.
WHITE-THROATED BEE-EATER (Merops albicollis)
Seven at Samburu.
Coraciidae (Rollers)
LILAC-BREASTED ROLLER (Coracias caudatus)
Common, widespread, colorful, and seen throughout the tour.
RUFOUS-CROWNED ROLLER (Coracias naevius)
Two at Elementaita.
Lybiidae (African Barbets)
RED-AND-YELLOW BARBET (Trachyphonus erythrocephalus)
Two singles at Samburu.
D'ARNAUD'S BARBET (Trachyphonus darnaudii)
Seven at Samburu.
D'ARNAUD'S BARBET (USAMBIRO) (Trachyphonus darnaudii usambiro) [E]
One at Masai Mara; most authorities now consider this form specifically distinct from the previous form.
SPOT-FLANKED BARBET (Tricholaema lacrymosa)
One at The Residences.
BLACK-BILLED BARBET (Lybius guifsobalito)
Some of our group saw 1 on the Oloololo Escarpment.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
RUFOUS-NECKED WRYNECK (Jynx ruficollis)
Good looks in the scope on the Oloololo Escarpment.
CARDINAL WOODPECKER (Dendropicos fuscescens)
One at Elementaita.
AFRICAN GRAY WOODPECKER (GRAY) (Dendropicos goertae goertae)
One at Samburu.
MOUNTAIN GRAY WOODPECKER (Dendropicos spodocephalus rhodeogaster)
One at Gilgil.
NUBIAN WOODPECKER (Campethera nubica)
One at Nairobi NP, 2 at Naivasha, and 1 at Samburu.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
PYGMY FALCON (Polihierax semitorquatus)
Great looks at these tiny falcons at Samburu; with a total of 6.
LANNER FALCON (Falco biarmicus)
Singles at Samburu and The Ark.
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
RED-FRONTED PARROT (Poicephalus gulielmi)
Six (all in flight) at The Ark.
MEYER'S PARROT (Poicephalus meyeri)
Five at Masai Mara.
RED-BELLIED PARROT (Poicephalus rufiventris)
Also known as African Orange-bellied Parrot; we saw about 30 at Samburu.
Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
AFRICAN BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE (Oriolus larvatus)
One at Naro Moru.
Platysteiridae (Wattle-eyes and Batises)
BROWN-THROATED WATTLE-EYE (Platysteira cyanea)
We had a little group of 4 birds chasing each other around on the Oloololo Escarpment.
CHINSPOT BATIS (Batis molitor)
One at Elementaita.
Malaconotidae (Bushshrikes and Allies)
BLACK-BACKED PUFFBACK (Dryoscopus cubla)
One at Naro Moru, and 4 at Masai Mara.
BROWN-CROWNED TCHAGRA (Tchagra australis)
One at Elementaita.
TROPICAL BOUBOU (Laniarius major)
Common in the central highlands including Nairobi, Elementaita, Naro Moru, and The Ark.
SLATE-COLORED BOUBOU (Laniarius funebris)
Four at Nairobi NP, and 6 at Samburu.
ROSY-PATCHED BUSHSHRIKE (Rhodophoneus cruentus)
We saw a total of 14 at Samburu.
SULPHUR-BREASTED BUSHSHRIKE (Telophorus sulfureopectus)
We saw this striking bushshrike at Naro Moru.
GRAY-HEADED BUSHSHRIKE (Malaconotus blanchoti)
Two at Samburu.
Dicruridae (Drongos)
FORK-TAILED DRONGO (Dicrurus adsimilis)
Common and widespread throughout the tour.
Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers)
AFRICAN PARADISE-FLYCATCHER (Terpsiphone viridis)
Small numbers at The Residences, Elementaita, and Sagana.
Laniidae (Shrikes)
GRAY-BACKED FISCAL (Lanius excubitoroides)
One at Naivasha, 8 at Elementaita, and about 20 at Masai Mara.
LONG-TAILED FISCAL (Lanius cabanisi)
Two at Nairobi NP.
TAITA FISCAL (Lanius dorsalis)
Thirteen at Samburu.
NORTHERN FISCAL (Lanius humeralis)
Common and widespread away from the low country at Samburu; in all we saw about 70.
WHITE-RUMPED SHRIKE (Eurocephalus ruppelli)
Ten at Samburu.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
CAPE CROW (Corvus capensis)
Small numbers in the Rift Valley, and the Naro Moru area.
PIED CROW (Corvus albus)
Very common and widespread; with a total of about 140.
FAN-TAILED RAVEN (Corvus rhipidurus)
Three at Samburu.
Stenostiridae (Fairy Flycatchers)
AFRICAN BLUE FLYCATCHER (Elminia longicauda)
One on the Oloololo Escarpment.
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
WHITE-BELLIED TIT (Melaniparus albiventris)
Six in the Yellow-barked Acacia trees at Elementaita.
Alaudidae (Larks)
FISCHER'S SPARROW-LARK (Eremopterix leucopareia)
About 40 at Samburu, and 20 at Masai Mara.
PINK-BREASTED LARK (Calendulauda poecilosterna)
Four at Samburu.
FAWN-COLORED LARK (FOXY) (Calendulauda africanoides intercedens)
One at Samburu.
RED-WINGED LARK (Mirafra hypermetra)
Good looks at a bird at Samburu where they are generally very uncommon.
RUFOUS-NAPED LARK (Mirafra africana)
About 15 at Nairobi NP, and 130+ at Masai Mara.
RED-CAPPED LARK (Calandrella cinerea)
One at Elementaita, and 4 at Masai Mara.
Macrosphenidae (African Warblers)
RED-FACED CROMBEC (Sylvietta whytii)
Two at Naro Moru.
Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)
GREEN-BACKED CAMAROPTERA (GRAY-BACKED) (Camaroptera brachyura brevicaudata)
Widespread in small numbers; with a total of about 30 (plus many others heard).
YELLOW-BREASTED APALIS (Apalis flavida)
One at The Residences.
TAWNY-FLANKED PRINIA (Prinia subflava)
One at Elementaita.
GRAY-CAPPED WARBLER (Eminia lepida)
One at The Residences, and 4 at Naro Moru.
SINGING CISTICOLA (Cisticola cantans)
One at Nairobi NP.
HUNTER'S CISTICOLA (Cisticola hunteri) [E]
Four at The Ark.
RATTLING CISTICOLA (Cisticola chiniana)
Common at Elementaita, and a few others at scattered sites with Acacia bushland.
ASHY CISTICOLA (Cisticola cinereolus)
One at Samburu.
WINDING CISTICOLA (Cisticola marginatus amphilectus)
Six in the marshy grasslands at Nairobi NP, and 1 at Masai Mara.
STOUT CISTICOLA (Cisticola robustus)
One at Masai Mara.
PECTORAL-PATCH CISTICOLA (Cisticola brunnescens)
One at Masai Mara.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
WHITE-HEADED SAWWING (Psalidoprocne albiceps)
Two at Masai Mara.
BLACK SAWWING (Psalidoprocne pristoptera)
One at Masai Mara.
BANDED MARTIN (Neophedina cincta)
About a dozen feeding low over the Mara grasslands.
PLAIN MARTIN (Riparia paludicola ducis)
Small numbers at Nairobi NP, Limuru Pond, Naivasha, and at Masai Mara; in all we saw about 60.
ROCK MARTIN (RED-THROATED) (Ptyonoprogne fuligula fusciventris)
Four at The Residences, and about 10 at The Ark.
ETHIOPIAN SWALLOW (Hirundo aethiopica)
One at the Solio Game Ranch.
WIRE-TAILED SWALLOW (Hirundo smithii)
Six at Sagana, and 4 at Masai Mara.
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (RED-RUMPED) (Cecropis daurica emini)
Four at Naro Moru, 2 at Kisima, 10 at The Ark, and 4 at Masai Mara.
LESSER STRIPED SWALLOW (Cecropis abyssinica)
Six at Nairobi NP, 10 at Elementaita, and about 30 at Masai Mara.
MOSQUE SWALLOW (Cecropis senegalensis)
Three at Masai Mara.
Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)
YELLOW-WHISKERED GREENBUL (Eurillas latirostris)
One at The Residences.
CABANIS'S GREENBUL (PLACID) (Phyllastrephus cabanisi placidus)
Two at Naro Moru.
COMMON BULBUL (DODSON'S) (Pycnonotus barbatus dodsoni)
Sometimes split from Common Bulbul; this was the lowland form which we saw at Samburu.
COMMON BULBUL (DARK-CAPPED) (Pycnonotus barbatus tricolor)
Very common and widespread.
Zosteropidae (White-eyes, Yuhinas, and Allies)
KIKUYU WHITE-EYE (Zosterops kikuyuensis)
Three at the gate to The Ark.
Leiothrichidae (Laughingthrushes and Allies)
RUFOUS CHATTERER (Argya rubiginosa)
Five at Samburu, and 6 at Masai Mara.
ARROW-MARKED BABBLER (Turdoides jardineii)
About 15 at Elementaita, and 5 6 at Masai Mara.
BLACK-LORED BABBLER (Turdoides sharpei)
Eight at our camp at Lake Elementaita.
NORTHERN PIED-BABBLER (Turdoides hypoleuca) [E]
One at Nairobi NP.
Buphagidae (Oxpeckers)
RED-BILLED OXPECKER (Buphagus erythrorynchus)
fifteen at Nairobi NP, a dozen at Elementaita, 2 at Samburu, and 20+ at The Ark.
YELLOW-BILLED OXPECKER (Buphagus africanus)
Three at Nairobi NP, and about 30 at Masai Mara.
Sturnidae (Starlings)
VIOLET-BACKED STARLING (Cinnyricinclus leucogaster)
We saw these gorgeous starlings at Nairobi NP, Kiawara, and along the Oloololo Escarpment.
HILDEBRANDT'S STARLING (Lamprotornis hildebrandti)
Five at Masai Mara.
RUEPPELL'S STARLING (Lamprotornis purpuroptera)
Small numbers in Acacia country with grassland; in all we saw about 45.
GOLDEN-BREASTED STARLING (Lamprotornis regius)
One in flight at Samburu.
SUPERB STARLING (Lamprotornis superbus)
Very common and widespread.
GREATER BLUE-EARED STARLING (Lamprotornis chalybaeus)
Twenty at Elementaita, and 10 at Masai Mara.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
ABYSSINIAN THRUSH (Turdus abyssinicus)
Small numbers at Nairobi, Naivasha, Naro Moru, and around The Ark.
AFRICAN THRUSH (Turdus pelios)
Two at our camp at Lake Elementaita.
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
AFRICAN DUSKY FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa adusta)
Singles at The Residences and Nairobi NP, and 4 at Naro Moru.
AFRICAN GRAY FLYCATCHER (Bradornis microrhynchus)
Small numbers in the Nairobi area, Elementaita, and at Samburu.
PALE FLYCATCHER (Agricola pallidus)
One at Nairobi NP.
SILVERBIRD (Melaenornis semipartitus)
Two at Masai Mara.
NORTHERN BLACK-FLYCATCHER (Melaenornis edolioides)
Two in the grounds of Kichwa Tembo Camp.
SOUTHERN BLACK-FLYCATCHER (Melaenornis pammelaina)
One at Samburu.
WHITE-EYED SLATY-FLYCATCHER (Melaenornis fischeri)
Six at The Residences, 2 at Elementaita, and 8 in The Ark area.
CAPE ROBIN-CHAT (Cossypha caffra)
Singles at Limuru Pond, and Elementaita, and 4 at The Ark.
WHITE-BROWED ROBIN-CHAT (Cossypha heuglini)
Three at Elementaita, and 1 at Naro Moru.
SPOTTED MORNING-THRUSH (Cichladusa guttata)
Three at Samburu.
SOOTY CHAT (Myrmecocichla nigra)
About 50 at Masai Mara.
NORTHERN ANTEATER-CHAT (Myrmecocichla aethiops)
Fourteen at Elementaita, and 4 in the Solio grasslands.
Nectariniidae (Sunbirds and Spiderhunters)
COLLARED SUNBIRD (Hedydipna collaris)
Two at The Residences.
GREEN-HEADED SUNBIRD (Cyanomitra verticalis)
Four at The Residences, 2 at Thomson's Falls, and 2 at Naro Moru.
AMETHYST SUNBIRD (Chalcomitra amethystina)
One at Elementaita.
SCARLET-CHESTED SUNBIRD (Chalcomitra senegalensis)
Six in the Nairobi area, about 12 at Elementaita, and 6 at Naro Moru.
TACAZZE SUNBIRD (Nectarinia tacazze)
Two at Thomson's Falls, and about 6 at Naro Moru; all preferring to feed on introduced Bottlebrush trees.
BRONZE SUNBIRD (Nectarinia kilimensis)
Two at The Residences, and then 8 at Thomson's Falls and Naro Moru.
GOLDEN-WINGED SUNBIRD (Drepanorhynchus reichenowi)
We saw 2 of these highly distinctive sunbirds at The Ark.
NORTHERN DOUBLE-COLLARED SUNBIRD (Cinnyris reichenowi)
One at Naro Moru.
EASTERN DOUBLE-COLLARED SUNBIRD (Cinnyris mediocris)
One at Thomson's Falls, and 4 at The Ark.
BLACK-BELLIED SUNBIRD (Cinnyris nectarinioides)
We saw a single male in breeding plumage at Samburu.
VARIABLE SUNBIRD (Cinnyris venustus)
The most common sunbird in the highlands with a total of about 55.
Ploceidae (Weavers and Allies)
WHITE-HEADED BUFFALO-WEAVER (Dinemellia dinemelli)
About 80 at Samburu.
WHITE-BROWED SPARROW-WEAVER (Plocepasser mahali)
Ten at Naivasha, and about 200 at Samburu.
DONALDSON SMITH'S SPARROW-WEAVER (Plocepasser donaldsoni)
We saw about 50 of this northern 'desert species' at Samburu.
BLACK-CAPPED SOCIAL-WEAVER (Pseudonigrita cabanisi)
Abuot 140 at Samburu.
RED-HEADED WEAVER (Anaplectes rubriceps)
We saw a single female at our Elementaita camp.
BAGLAFECHT WEAVER (Ploceus baglafecht)
Widespread in the central highlands, and at Masai Mara.
SPECTACLED WEAVER (Ploceus ocularis)
Two at The Residences, and 1 at The Ark.
HOLUB'S GOLDEN-WEAVER (Ploceus xanthops)
We saw an adult and a young one on the Oloololo Escarpment.
SPEKE'S WEAVER (Ploceus spekei)
Flocks at their nests were seen at Elementaita, Thomson's Falls, and at Kisima.
VILLAGE WEAVER (Ploceus cucullatus)
At least 100 were nesting in a tree at our camp at Elementaita.
CHESTNUT WEAVER (Ploceus rubiginosus)
About 10 at Elementaita, and 300+ at Samburu.
RED-BILLED QUELEA (Quelea quelea)
Flocks totaling about 3000 were seen at Samburu.
YELLOW BISHOP (Euplectes capensis)
First seen at Gilgil (3), and then at Naro Moru (1).
WHITE-WINGED WIDOWBIRD (Euplectes albonotatus)
About 30 at Nairobi NP.
YELLOW-MANTLED WIDOWBIRD (YELLOW-MANTLED) (Euplectes macroura macroura)
Ten (mostly in transitional plumage) at Masai Mara.
RED-COWLED WIDOWBIRD (Euplectes laticauda)
Singles at Nairobi NP, and Masai Mara.
FAN-TAILED WIDOWBIRD (Euplectes axillaris)
About 30 in the marshy areas at Masai Mara.
LONG-TAILED WIDOWBIRD (Euplectes progne)
We saw a male in breeding plumage at Solio Game Ranch.
Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies)
BRONZE MANNIKIN (Spermestes cucullata)
Small flocks were common and widespread; with a total of about 90.
AFRICAN SILVERBILL (Euodice cantans)
Two at Samburu.
BLACK-FACED WAXBILL (Brunhilda erythronotos)
Two at Nairobi NP.
COMMON WAXBILL (Estrilda astrild)
Common in the Nairobi area, and at Masai Mara; in total we saw about 170.
QUAILFINCH (Ortygospiza atricollis)
One at the edge of a track in Nairobi NP.
CUT-THROAT (Amadina fasciata)
Six at Samburu.
PURPLE GRENADIER (Granatina ianthinogaster)
About 20 at Nairobi NP, and 4 at Masai Mara.
RED-CHEEKED CORDONBLEU (Uraeginthus bengalus)
Most common at Elementaita (80), and smaller numbers at Nairobi (10), and Kisima (6).
RED-BILLED FIREFINCH (Lagonosticta senegala)
About 20 in the Nairobi area, and 30+ at Elementaita.
Viduidae (Indigobirds)
PIN-TAILED WHYDAH (Vidua macroura)
Ten at Nairobi NP, and 4 at Masai Mara.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
KENYA RUFOUS SPARROW (Passer rufocinctus)
Fairly common and widespread throughout the highland areas; in all we saw about 70.
NORTHERN GRAY-HEADED SPARROW (Passer griseus)
About 10 at Elementaita.
PARROT-BILLED SPARROW (Passer gongonensis)
At least 40 at Samburu.
SWAHILI SPARROW (Passer suahelicus)
Four at Masai Mara.
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
CAPE WAGTAIL (Motacilla capensis)
Two at The Ark.
AFRICAN PIED WAGTAIL (Motacilla aguimp)
Common and widespread throughout the tour.
AFRICAN PIPIT (Anthus cinnamomeus)
One at Elementaita, and 4 at Masai Mara.
PLAIN-BACKED PIPIT (Anthus leucophrys)
About 30 at Elementaita, and 40+ at Masai Mara.
YELLOW-THROATED LONGCLAW (Macronyx croceus)
Ten at Nairobi NP, and 70 at Masai Mara.
ROSY-THROATED LONGCLAW (Macronyx ameliae)
Two at Masai Mara.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
YELLOW-FRONTED CANARY (Crithagra mozambica)
About 30 at Masai Mara.
AFRICAN CITRIL (Crithagra citrinelloides kikuyensis)
Four in the Nairobi area, 2 at Gilgil, 2 at Thomson's Falls, and 1 at Masai Mara.
REICHENOW'S SEEDEATER (Crithagra reichenowi)
About 30 at Nairobi NP, and 2 at Elementaita.
BRIMSTONE CANARY (Crithagra sulphurata)
One at Elementaita, and 4 at Masai Mara.
STREAKY SEEDEATER (Crithagra striolata)
Singles at The Residences and Elementaita, and 6 at The Ark.
MAMMALS
WAHLBERG'S EPAULETTED FRUIT BAT (Epomophorus wahlbergi)
About a dozen were hanging under the roof of the gate to Nairobi NP.
BLUE MONKEY (Cercopithecus mitis)
About 20 at in the forest around Kichwa Tembo Camp.
BLACK-CHEEKED WHITE-NOSED MONKEY (Cercopithecus ascanius)
Also known as Red-tailed Monkey, we saw about a dozen at Kichwa Tembo.
BLACK-FACED VERVET MONKEY (Cercopithecus aethiops)
Common and widespread from Nairobi to the Rift Valley and down to the lowlands at Samburu; in total we saw about 250.
OLIVE BABOON (Papio anubis)
Very common and widespread; with a total of about 800.
CAPE HARE (Lepus capensis)
One at Nairobi NP, and 2 at Elementaita.
UNSTRIPED GROUND SQUIRREL (Xerus rutilus)
About 40 at Samburu.
OCHRE BUSH SQUIRREL (Paraxerus ochraceus)
Four at The Residences, 2 at The Ark, and 1 at Masai Mara.
SPRINGHARE (Pedetes capensis)
One on the night drive at Elementaita.
BLACK-BACKED JACKAL (Canis mesomelas)
Singles at Elementaita, Samburu, and Masai Mara.
BAT-EARED FOX (Otocyon megalotis)
Brief views on the night drive at Elementaita.
SLENDER MONGOOSE (Herpestes sanguineus)
Three at The Ark, and 1 at Masai Mara.
BANDED MONGOOSE (Mungos mungo)
Great looks at several groups of these playful creatures at Masai Mara.
SPOTTED HYAENA (Crocuta crocuta)
One on the night drive at Elementaita, 4 at The Ark, and about 20 at Masai Mara – including a group denning right next to our camp there.
SERVAL (Felis serval)
Great looks for half of our group at Masai Mara.
LION (Panthera leo)
We saw a group of 9 and then a single male at Samburu. And in Masai Mara first a group of 5 playing with a baby gazelle they'd caught, and then 2 big-maned males and a female.
CHEETAH (Acinonyx jubatus)
After a long drive in Masai Mara we finally caught up with a mother and her 4 young – great to watch them as they slowly worked their way towards our vehicles.
AFRICAN BUSH ELEPHANT (Loxodonta africana)
We saw them at Samburu, The Ark, and at Masai Mara; with many sighting of mothers, babies, and some big tusker bulls.
TREE HYRAX (Dendrohyrax arboreus)
One at Naro Moru, and 5 or 6 at Masai Mara.
GREVY'S ZEBRA (Equus grevyi)
We saw 15 of these critically endangered zebras at Samburu.
BURCHELL'S ZEBRA (Equus burchelli)
Common in the Rift Valley and especially at Elementaita where we saw over 1000, and then at Masai Mara where we saw perhaps 2000 in total.
BLACK RHINOCEROS (Diceros bicornis)
Two at Solio Game Reserve, and a mother with a large youngster and a smaller one at Masai Mara; another critically endangered species.
WHITE RHINOCEROS (Ceratotherium simum) [I]
Two at Nairobi NP, and about 20 at Solio.
WARTHOG (Phacochoerus aethiopicus)
Common and widespread; with a total of about 250.
GIANT FOREST HOG (Hylochoerus meinertzhageni)
Good looks at 6 at The Ark.
HIPPOPOTAMUS (Hippopotamus amphibius)
Thirty at Nairobi NP, 6 at Naivasha, and about 70 at Masai Mara.
COMMON GIRAFFE (Giraffa camelopardalis)
Five at Nairobi NP, 1 at Naivasha, and about 175 at Masai Mara.
RETICULATED GIRAFFE (Giraffa reticulata)
We saw about 85 of these striking giraffes at Samburu – and all in such a beautiful landscape too!
ROTHSCHILD'S GIRAFFE (Giraffa rothschildi)
About 60 at Elementaita was by far the most we've ever seen on a single visit there.
BUSHBUCK (Tragelaphus scriptus)
Ten at The Ark.
COMMON ELAND (Taurotragus oryx)
About a dozen at Elementaita, and 16 at Masai Mara.
AFRICAN BUFFALO (Syncerus caffer)
Thirty at Nairobi NP, 50 at Elementaita, 20 at The Ark, and 60+ at Masai Mara.
COMMON WATERBUCK (Kobus ellipsiprymnus)
Two at Samburu.
DEFASSA WATERBUCK (Kobus defassa)
Forty at Naivasha, another 40 at Elementaita, and 50+ at Masai Mara.
BEISA ORYX (Oryx beisa)
We saw about 45 of these striking antelopes at Samburu.
TOPI (Damaliscus lunatus)
Usually in small groups but in Masai Mara we saw a single herd of 250+, and of course many of the smaller groups too.
HARTEBEEST (KONGONI) (Alcelaphus buselaphus)
Also known as Coke's Hartebeest; we saw about a dozen at Nairobi NP, and 50 at Masai Mara.
BLUE WILDEBEEST (Connochaetes taurinus)
Surprisingly few; with just 5 at Naivasha, and about a dozen at Masai Mara.
SUNI (Neotragus moschatus)
Great looks at 3 of these tiny antelopes at The Ark.
KIRK'S DIK-DIK (Modoqua kirki)
We saw about 40 at Samburu.
IMPALA (Aepyceros malampus)
Very common and widespread; with a total of about 1700.
GERENUK (Litocranius walleri)
Eighteen at Samburu.
THOMSON'S GAZELLE (Gazella thomsoni)
About 100 in the Naivasha area, 150 at Elementaita, and 1800+ at Masai Mara.
GRANT'S GAZELLE (Gazella granti)
Three at Naivasha, 10 at Elementaita, and 180 at Samburu.
Totals for the tour: 288 bird taxa and 44 mammal taxa