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Our group at Hakusembe Lodge. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

In November 2017, Field Guides arranged for 6 participants and Terry Stevenson to a make a private tour to Namibia and Botswana. We were told to expect rather hotter temperatures than usual and low water levels in the Okavango Delta, so we started with a few worries about just exactly what birds we'd find and what, perhaps, we'd miss! Well, any of these apprehensions were soon put aside, as we found all the south-west African endemics, and the most 'special birds' of the Okavango Delta - including Slaty Egret, Wattled Crane, African Skimmer, and no less than 3 Pel's Fishing-Owls. The mammals were great too, with some fabulous encounters with Elephants, Lion, Leopard and a record 17 Black Rhino.

Starting in Windhoek we made a first afternoon visit to the local sewage works, finding South African Shelduck, Hottentot Teal, Southern Pochard, Little Bittern and Black Crake at the ponds, and White-backed Mousebird, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Pririt Batis, and Black-fronted Bulbul in the surrounding acacia bush country. We then went to the local swift roost, where the localized Bradfield's Swift and at least 40 Alpine's put on a good show. And lastly, we finished the day back at our very nice guest house with an excellent dinner and some good South African wine - all in all, a great start to the tour!

The following day found us driving south-west, firstly through the rolling hills around Windhoek, then through dry ranch lands, and finally across arid desert near Solitaire. A picnic lunch on the banks of a seasonal wetland at Guisis provided us with our only Cape Shovelers and Maccoa Ducks of the tour, while a variety of random stops along the way gave us nice views of Lappet-faced Vulture, Pale Chanting-Goshawk, African Cuckoo, Pied Barbet, the striking Crimson-breasted Gonolek, Pearl-breasted Swallow, Ashy Tit, Burnt-neck Eremomela, and Kalahari Scrub-Robin.

After a night at the Namib Desert lodge, we made an early start and headed to Sossusvlei and the giant red sand dunes there. Our main target here was the endemic Dune Lark and we'd found about six of them by 8:30 a.m. All being well satisfied with our views of those, we then searched out another endemic - Rueppell's Bustard, plus of course a variety of other more common desert birds, including the enormous Common Ostrich, colorful Rosy-faced Lovebirds, boldly patterned Mountain Wheatears, many tame Pale-winged Starlings (right at our lodge), and hundreds of Social Weavers at their huge 'haystack-like' nests. We also enjoyed our first big mammals, with Gemsbok and Springbok being present in good numbers.

We now headed to Walvis Bay at the coast, seeing Namaqua and Double-banded sandgrouse, a very nice Pygmy Falcon, and Karoo and Tractrac chats along the way. A stop at the Tropic of Capricorn turned out to be good for mammals, with our only Mountain Zebra and Damara Ground Squirrels of the tour. Then, after checking-in at another very comfortable guesthouse in Walvis Bay, we were soon birding along the lagoon seeing thousands of Great Flamingos, and many hundreds of shorebirds, including Pied Avocet, Common Ringed and Chestnut-banded plovers, a flock of 480 Bar-tailed Godwit, Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stint and Common Greenshank. Hartlaub's and Kelp gulls were common, while terns included Caspian, Common, Great Crested, Sandwich, and the tiny Damara.

After breakfast the following day, we went to a local spot for Orange River White-eye, and then drove north to the gravel plains near Swakopmund for the very localized and super-well camouflaged Gray's Lark. Finding the lark quite easily was a relief, and we then were back on the road and heading inland for three nights (at two different lodges) in both the north and south Erongo Mountains. This is an area of rocky mountains and dry scrub, crossed here and there by large dry riverbeds. It is also home to many of the most wanted birds of the tour; with just some of the highlights being Hartlaub's Francolin (extremely difficult this tour, one was heard by all, but only seen by a couple of us), Red-crested Bustard, Grey Go-away-bird, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Freckled Nightjar (super looks), Violet Woodhoopoe, Damara Red-billed Hornbill, Rosy-faced Lovebird (dozens), Rueppell's Parrots (at least 8), the striking White-tailed Shrike, Carp's Tit, Rockrunner (great views in the scope), Herero Chat, Short-toed Rock-Thrush, Great Rufous Sparrow, and gorgeous Violet-eared Waxbills. Mammals included Dassie Rat (sole member of the family Petromuridae), Chacma Baboon, Rock Hyrax, Common Giraffe and Greater Kudu.

We then continued further north for two nights inside Etosha National Park, and a third night just outside. The dry conditions meant many of the waterholes were exceptional for mammals, and by driving to many of the best ones we were able to watch and photograph Black-backed Jackal, Spotted Hyaena, 6 Lions, well over 100 African Elephants, over a thousand Burchell's Zebra, perhaps 100 Giraffe, Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Impala, and thousands of Springbok. Most impressive of all though was the number of endangered Black Rhino, with 2 in the day, and at least 15 at night at the floodlit lodge waterholes. Of course, birds were well represented too, with Common Ostrich, Secretary-bird, Kori, Ludwig's and White-quilled bustards, Spotted Thick-knee, Burchell's and Double-banded coursers, and 8 species of larks (including Spike-heeled, Stark's and Pink-billed) out on the open plains. Blue Crane and Greater Painted-snipe were together with a variety of more common waterbirds at the waterholes. While the scattered trees and woodland provided perches or cover for Tawny Eagle, Southern Yellow-billed and Southern Red-billed hornbills, Greater and Lesser Kestrels, White Helmetshrike, White-crowned Shrike, Bare-cheeked and Black-faced babblers, African Paradise-flycatcher, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Scaly Weaver, and Green-winged Pytilia to name but a few. Also numerous at Etosha were several impressive flocks of Red-billed Quelea - at times totally covering reed beds or large acacia trees.

Continuing still further north we then spent a night at Hakusembe River Lodge on the Namibia-Angola border. Now in a totally different habitat, with a wide flowing river, riverine woodland and flood plains we soon added more new birds; White-faced Whistling-Duck, African Openbill, Hamerkop, Rufous-bellied Heron, African Marsh-Harrier, Collared Pratincole, Coppery-tailed Coucal, Marsh Owl, Little and Blue-cheeked bee-eaters, Lilac-breasted Roller, Gabon Boubou, Magpie Shrike, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Hartlaub's Babbler, Kurrichane Thrush, and Holub's Golden Weaver.

The final part of our journey through Namibia was to the Mahango Game Reserve right on the Botswana border. Although we only had part of one morning here, it was exceptionally enjoyable, with birds including a variety of ducks, geese, herons and egrets, our first African Fish-Eagles, 5 Wattled Cranes, Long-toed Lapwing, Black Cuckoo, Gray-headed Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Burchell's and Meves's starlings, and White-breasted Sunbird. Mammal highlights were more Elephants, Hippos, Bushbuck, Great Kudu, African Buffalo, Reedbuck, at least 350 Lechwe, and a fabulous, huge male Roan Antelope.

We now began our five night adventure in Botswana, starting first at Xaro Lodge in the Panhandle on the banks of the Okavango River. As always, it was a delightful stay here, as we took morning and afternoon boat trips and also walked through the palms, acacia trees, and baobabs on the mainland. In addition to the more common waterbirds we encountered, there are some great birds here we always make a special effort for, and with the help of our local guide, we found African Pygmy-goose, Slaty Egret, 3 White-backed Night-Herons, African Skimmer, African Barred Owlet, African Wood-Owl, Giant Kingfisher, Southern Carmine-Bee-eater, Crested Barbet, Bennett's Woodpecker, Retz's Helmetshrike, Greater Swamp-Warbler, Chirping Cisticola and Southern Brown-throated Weaver. Without doubt though, the mega highlight here, was a pair of Pel's Fishing-Owls, one of which stayed concealed, while the second bird perched right in the open - just wonderful!

Finally, we took a private charter flight deep into the Okavango Delta for a 3 night stay at Xigera Camp. This small, high-end camp was a great way to finish the tour, as we took morning and afternoon drives across the sandy plains, along the fringes of pools and lagoons, and through a mix of fig, palm, and sausage trees. New birds here included Swainson's Francolin, Saddle-billed Stork, Pink-backed Pelican, White-headed and Hooded vultures, Bateleur, Black-bellied Bustard, Lesser Jacana (for those who went on the Mokoro canoe), Small Buttonquail, Black Coucal, Southern Ground-hornbill, Striped Kingfisher, Dickinson's Kestrel, Southern Black-Tit, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Collared Sunbird, Rosy-breasted Longclaw, and Jameson's Firefinch.

However, it was not just birds here, as once again we were in big game country, and all enjoyed yet more encounters with elephants, zebra, giraffe, buffalo and a wide variety of antelope. Most memorable though were two huge male big-maned Lions which walked along right beside our vehicle. And then perhaps the best treat of all, a female Leopard carrying a baby Impala which she hid up a tree before going to fetch her two young cubs. Returning the following day it was indeed a pleasure to see one of the youngsters up the tree where the kill was hidden, while the mother lay resting in the tall grasses below.

And finally, during our very last morning, right in our camp was yet another Pel's Fishing-Owl. Holding a fish and perched just above one of the walkways it was a fabulous sighting and perfect farewell to our Bird of the Trip!

If you and your friends would like to plan a similar private tour to any of Terry's African or Indian destinations please contact the Field Guides office for details.

Thanks to all of you for joining me on this memorable adventure

--Terry

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

We saw small numbers of the beautiful little African Pygmy-goose. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

Saddle-billed Storks appeared at Xigera Camp in the Okavango. Photo by participant Dan Williams.

A highlight of any African tour is seeing mammals. Participant Barbara Williams got this wonderful portrait of a large male African Lion.

Bradfield's Hornbills have a rather small range including parts of Namibia and Botswana. We found this pair at Uris. Photo by participant Dan Williams.

A very cooperative Rufous-bellied Heron, seen at Hakusembe. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Rosy-faced Lovebirds were fairly common; we saw several flocks, including dozens near Erongo. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Here is one of the Black Rhinoceroses we saw in Etosha. What a great trip this was to see these magnificent animals! Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

Here we are, hiking the trail near the Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Dune Lark is one of the specialties of the Sossusvlei area and its giant red dunes. We had a wonderful experience with these birds; we found them early, and had a great view, as shown in this photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Herds of Elephants came to the waterholes in Etosha, and we saw them in the Okavango Delta as well. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

White-quilled Bustard was another great bird we found in Etosha; we saw about 50 of them there! Photo by participant Dan Williams.

Short-toed Rock Thrush is a lovely bird. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Pel's Fishing Owl was probably the avian highlight of the tour! We saw a total of three, including this one, looking sleepy, but clutching its prey with fantastically huge talons. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Another mammalian highlight was seeing this female Leopard with a young Impala. The Leopard carried her prey up into a tree, where we saw a cub feeding the next day, and the mother resting nearby. Photo by participant Dan Williams.

Some of us went on a Mokoro canoe ride through the Okavango. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

Red-billed Queleas are some of the most numerous birds on Earth, and we saw thousands and thousands in Etosha. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

Cocktails are served in style in the Okavango! Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

A Rufous-crowned Roller (sometimes called the Purple Roller), photographed nicely by participant Barbara Williams.

We saw a few lovely African Paradise-Flycatchers, including this one at a nest with young. Photo by participant Dan Williams.

Little Grebes were rather common; we saw them at pools and waterholes throughout the tour, including these two sharing a dip with two Gemsbok. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

We shared a day-time sighting of an African Scops-owl with a crowd of youngsters. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

White Helmetshrike posed nicely for us at Mushara. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

One of the Lesser Kestrels seen at Halali, in Etosha. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Hartlaub's Babblers were quite common. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

Our plane for the flight to Xigera Camp in the Okavango. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

Greater Kudu are beautiful antelope; we saw quite a few, in various places throughout the tour. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

We saw Yellow Mongoose a few times. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

We saw Red Hartebeest in Etosha, and at Mahango. Guide Terry Stevenson took this portrait of a pensive looking individual.

Participant Barbara Williams captured this lovely sunset at Hakusembe.

Here, our group is engaged in some serious birding at the Mahango Game Reserve. Photo by participant Barbara Williams.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Other creatures seen on the tour included;

Leopard Tortoise, 1 in the Erongo Mountains.

Karoo Sand Snake, 1 in the Erongo Mountains.

Side-striped Sand Snake, 1 by the vet fence south of Rundu.

Night Adder, 1 on the road to the east of Rundu.

Black Mamba, fabulous to see 1 at Xigera Camp.

Namibian Rock Agama, common in the Erongo Mountains.

Ovampo Giant Skink, 1 in the Erongo Mountains.

Water Monitor, 1 near Xigera Camp.

Nile Crocodile, about 40 along the Okavango River and in the delta.

Angolan Reed Frog, 1 for those who went in the Mokoro canoe.

Totals for the tour: 357 bird taxa and 40 mammal taxa