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This lovely Rockrunner was just one of the wonderful birds and other animals that we saw in Namibia. This endemic was found in the Erongo Mountains, where we saw 6 of these interesting birds. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

Our March 2018 Namibia and Botswana tour followed our well tried route visiting the massive red sand dunes at Sossusvlei, the internationally acclaimed Walvis Bay Lagoon, the Erongo Mountains, Etosha National Park, and then in Botswana, the fabulous Okavango Delta, where we stayed in two of the very best lodges and traveled by private charter plane.

Beginning in Windhoek we spent the afternoon at the local sewage ponds, not ideal you may think, but in a country which is largely desert any habitat for waterbirds is well worth a visit. Highlights included flocks of South African Shelduck, Hottentot Teal, and a single male Southern Pochard. Long-tailed Cormorants and African Darters perched in the trees along the edge of the ponds, and a Little Bittern flushed from a reed bed where African Gallinule was also visible; striking Red Bishops perched and displayed along the reed tops. In the surrounding acacia woodland birds were varied, with Brown Snake-Eagle, Dideric Cuckoo, White-backed Mousebird, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Pied Barbet, Lesser Grey Shrike, Black-fronted Bulbul and Mariqua Sunbird all making for a great start to the tour.

We left the following day for quite a long drive to our lodge in the Namib Naukluft Desert, however with stops along the way we had many highlights, including Cape Shoveler and Maccoa Duck at our lunch stop, several Pale Chanting-Goshawks, the endemic Monteiro's Hornbill, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Rufous-crowned Roller, Ashy Tit, Cape Crombec, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Mariqua Flycatcher, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Pale-winged Starling, Scaly Weaver, and Social Weavers at their massive 'haystack' nests.

We then made a day tour to the nearby Sossusvlei, perhaps Namibia's most famous visual attraction, with massive red sand dunes and truly spectacular desert scenery. Birds here are not numerous, but the endemic Dune Lark is always high on everyone's list and it was amazing this year, with our first sighting within five minutes of getting to our usual site. Other notable species of the day included Common Ostrich, Lappet-faced Vulture, Rueppell's Bustard, Namaqua Dove, Greater Kestrel, Rosy-faced Lovebird, Crimson-breasted Gonolek, Chat Flycatcher, Mountain Wheatear, and Dusky Sunbird. Large mammals included Gemsbok, Blue Wildebeest, and Springbok.

For a total change of scene we then drove to the coast, with Burchell's Courser, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Pygmy Falcon being just three new birds we added along the way. Five Common Giraffe and about 80 rather localized Mountain Zebra were two great mammal sightings. Once at Walvis Bay we checked in to our guesthouse and then drove along the shore of the lagoon - so different to what we'd seen so far with flocks of both Greater and Lesser flamingos, Great White Pelican, several hundred Black-winged Stilts and Pied Avocets, dainty Chestnut-banded Plovers, and thousands of migrant shorebirds including Whimbrel, Curlew-Sandpiper, Sanderling, Little Stint, Common Greenshank and Red-necked Phalarope. Hartlaub's and Kelp gulls were numerous, and terns included Caspian, Common, Great Crested, Sandwich, and the very localized Damara Tern - of which several were still present and in full breeding plumage.

We then headed north and inland for three nights in the Erongo Mountains, first a two night stay in the south and then a single night in the north. Along the way we'd found the endemic Gray's Lark, and now in these rocky mountains we added several more; Hartlaub's Francolin, Violet Woodhoopoe, Damara Red-billed Hornbill, Rueppell's Parrot (fabulous looks this year), White-tailed Shrike (also fabulous looks) and Herero Chat (perched in the open nearby and couldn't have been better). Carp's Tit and Rockrunner were two more endemics that we also saw in this area, while mammals included Round-eared Sengi (Elephant-Shrew) and Dassie Rat - sole member of the family 'Petromuridae'.

Once again we headed north, this time to Etosha where we spent three nights (2 in the park and one just outside). Recent heavy rains meant many of the mammals had dispersed throughout the now grassy plains, but we still enjoyed Black-backed Jackal, Slender Mongoose, herds of Burchell's Zebra, Gemsbok, Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Impala and Springbok. Best of all though was on our very last morning when we had close looks at a pair of rarely seen Ratel (Honey-Badgers) and two magnificent male Lions. Bird life in Etosha was as always variable, with the grassy plains being home to Common Ostrich, Abdim's Stork, Secretarybird, Double-banded Courser, Kori and White quilled bustards, Spike-heeled, Red-capped and Eastern Clapper larks, and Capped Wheatear. In the open skies we watched White-backed Vulture, Bateleur and Martial Eagle, while the bush country provided us with views of Southern Red-billed Hornbill, Lilac-breasted Roller, Crimson-breasted Gonolek, Black Cuckooshrike, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Black-faced and Bare-cheeked babblers, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Violet-eared Waxbill and Eastern Paradise-Whydah. The pools and their surroundings held a variety of ducks, herons and egrets, flamingos, Swainson's Francolin, Blue Crane, Wattled Lapwing and Namaqua and Burchell's sandgrouse. And, with the help of a member of staff at one of our lodges we had great day-time views of both African Scops-Owl and Barn-Owl.

The final part of our Namibia section of the tour was a night at Hakusembe River Lodge on the banks of the Okavango River, followed by a drive through Mahango Game Reserve on the border with Botswana. As always the riverine woodland and flood plains here provided us with many new birds, with just a few of our favorites being African Pygmy-goose, Hamerkop, Goliath Heron, Slaty Egret, African Fish-Eagle, Woodland Kingfisher, White-fronted, Blue-cheeked and Southern Carmine bee-eaters, White Helmetshrike, Gabon Boubou, Hartlaub's Babbler, Meves's Starling, Yellow-crowned Bishop and Village Indigobird - we added three new mammal species too; Bushbuck, African Buffalo and Lechwe.

We then continued in to Botswana and began with two nights at Xaro Lodge in the 'Pan-handle'. It was a wonderful beginning with both White-backed Night-Heron and Pel's Fishing-Owl seen really well on our very first afternoon - two of the best birds of the whole tour! Other highlights here were repeated looks at more African Pygmy-geese, African Fish-Eagles, Malachite, Woodland, Giant and Pied Kingfishers, White-fronted, Little and Blue-cheeked bee-eaters. New species included Lesser Jacana, African Wood-Owl, Bradfield's Hornbill, Crested and Black-collared barbets, Meyer's Parrot, Greater Swamp Warbler, Chirping Cisticola, Collared Sunbird, Southern Brown-throated Weaver and Brown Firefinch. We also found a bird rarely seen in this part of Botswana - a male Parasitic Weaver (Cuckoo-Finch) in full breeding plumage!

Our final leg of the tour was taking a private charter plane and flying to Macatoo Camp in the western part of the Okavango Delta. We had three nights at this lovely camp, where each very spacious tent has its own veranda and bathroom, all drinks and laundry services are included in the cost, and delicious meals are served under shady trees in the day and the stars at night. Our daily drives were in a specially adapted 4x4 Toyota Landcruiser and we slowly meandered across the grassy plains and wetlands seeing Saddle-billed Stork, Rufous-bellied Heron, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Wattled Crane, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Coppery-tailed Coucal, African Barred Owlet, Swamp Nightjar, Striped Kingfisher, Greater Honeyguide (trying to attract us with its unique back and forth display and buzzing call), Dickinson's Kestrel, Chinspot Batis, Retz's Helmetshrike, Southern Black-Tit, Red-billed and Yellow-billed oxpeckers, and Pin-tailed Whydah to mention but a few. Mammals included Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Banded Mongoose, Warthog, Hippo, African Buffalo, and a wide variety of antelopes. Most impressive though, were three gorgeous Roan Antelope, and several herds of African Elephant, including mothers, teenagers, babies, and some truly massive bulls.

Thanks to all of you for joining me on this memorable adventure.

--Terry

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

The dunes at Sossusvlei were one of our first destinations. Participant Helen Bailey got this beautiful and evocative image.

This Saddle-billed Stork was seen as we were driving near Macatoo Camp in the Okavango. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

The endemic Dune Lark was seen very well on our tour. We found one almost as soon as we reached the site at Sossusvlei. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

This huge Baobab tree provided a great spot for a group photo, as well as some welcome shade. Photo by guide Terry Stevenson.

It must feel very odd to have birds climbing on your face! This Giraffe seems rather resigned... The Yellow-billed Oxpeckers look comfortable with their lofty perch. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

Participants David and Judy Smith captured this image of one of the White-quilled Bustards we saw at Etosha.

We were lucky to find some beautiful Burchell's Sandgrouse in Etosha and again at Macatoo. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

This is one of the Ratel (Honey Badgers) we saw at Halali on our last day in Etosha. What an amazing sighting! Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

Bennett's Woodpecker can be difficult to find, so we were very pleased to see this one so well at Okombahe. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

The Herero Chat is a regional endemic; this one posed nicely for us! Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

Participant Becky Hansen captured this lovely image of the White-backed Night-Heron we found near Shakawe.

The Round-eared Sengi, or Elephant-Shrew, was one of the most interesting mammals we saw. This one is from the Erongo Mountains. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

The gorgeous Violet-backed Starling was widespread, but seen in small numbers. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

Rosy-faced Lovebirds were quite abundant in Namibia, where we saw about 300 in all. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

This sleepy Barn Owl was pointed out to us by a local park employee at Halali, in Etosha. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

Our accomodations at Macatoo Camp were quite lovely, and located in the midst of some fabulous birding! Photo by participant Helen Bailey.

One of the Black-shouldered Kites we saw sat nicely for this portrait by participants David and Judy Smith.

We began seeing Meve's Starling in Mahango Game Reserve, with more to come in Botswana. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

We were not the only ones who enjoyed breakfast! Participant Helen Bailey captured this group of Southern Masked Weavers and Pale-winged Starlings cleaning up a table.

We saw two beautiful Red-necked Falcons at Etosha; this is a great image of one of them, by participants David and Judy Smith.

While rats might not be most peoples' idea of great African wildlife, the Dassie Rat is the only member of its family, thus it is special! It's also an attractive animal. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

We saw a number of male Eastern Paradise-Whydahs, with their amazing long tails. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

Cape Sparrow is in the same genus as the familiar House Sparrow, but it is much more attractive! We saw good numbers of these in Namibia. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

Participants David and Judy Smith captured this image of a Black-faced Vervet Monkey.

Hippos put on a good show for us near Macatoo Camp. Photo by participant Becky Hansen.

This Leopard Tortoise seems oblivious of the hornbill watching in the background. Photo by participants David and Judy Smith.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Other mammals and reptiles we saw included;

Round-eared Sengi (Elephant Shrew); what we think was this species (although recent 'splits' make exact identification in the field impossible) was seen at the Tropic of Capricorn (2), and in the Erongo Mountains (also 2).

Nile Crocodile; 4 at Xaro and 1 at Macatoo.

Green Bush Snake; 1 at Macatoo.

Coppery Skink; 1 in the Erongo Mountains.

Acacia Skink; common in the Namib Naukluft Desert.

Common Barking Gecko; 1 at Sossusvlei.

Thick-toed Gecko; 1 at Windhoek.

Namib Day Gecko; 1 in the Erongo Mountains.

Namibian Rock Agama; about 40 in the Erongo Mountains.

Namaqua Sand Lizard; 1 at Sossusvlei.

Totals for the tour: 350 bird taxa and 35 mammal taxa