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You can't help feeling a sense of awe after a trip to the seabird colony at Cape St. Mary's in Newfoundland. This time around we were exposed to the full Cape St. Mary's weather experience, as we got an appreciation for the fog that has contributed to the reputation of the area as treacherous for fishermen. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
The Canadian Maritimes have some of the most beautiful landscapes on the continent, and they really come alive with bird life in the summer. We were fortunate to be able to enjoy this bounty of nature with a combination of a great group of people and excellent weather.
We started out by birding around picturesque St. John’s for the first morning, going to the top of Signal Hill for a bird's eye view of the harbor and a taste of the landscape we would enjoy for the next 10 days. We made a couple of productive birding stops as we made our way down to Cape Spear (the easternmost point in Canada), seeing our first Pine Grosbeaks and the endemic Type 8 Red Crossbill. From Cape Spear, we headed south towards Bay Bulls, and one of the main highlights of the trip, the boat trip to the Witless Bay Ecological Preserve. As we got out to offshore waters, we encountered fog, though the growing numbers of alcids, a Sooty Shearwater, and views of at least one Humpback Whale buoyed everyone’s mood as we approached the breeding islands through the mist. Almost as soon as we got to Gull Island, we were greeted by the sun shining right down on us through a hole in the fog, and tens of thousands of Common Murres and thousands of Atlantic Puffins were revealed in great light. It was a truly mesmerizing experience. Before we left, we even had a look at a white-cheeked goose that turned out to be Newfoundland’s first documented record of Cackling Goose!
After spending another night in St. John’s (including an excellent harbor-side dinner as the sun set), we started making our way south towards the southern end of the Avalon Peninsula, stopping once again at Cape Spear to enjoy the view and for another chance at some seabirds from shore, before we bid the St. John’s area farewell. On our way down to Trepassey, we stopped at La Manche Provincial Park, which gave us yet another hit of boreal birds, including Yellow-bellied Flycatchers and a family of often-elusive Black-backed Woodpeckers that put on a great show for the group.
The beautiful barrens of the southern Avalon were shrouded in mist as we worked our way west towards Placentia. A great opportunity to compare Common Tern and Arctic Tern in both adult and immature plumages at St. Vincent’s was a wonderful learning experience for all. Along the way we also enjoyed a Northern Goshawk circling over the road while carrying prey, and we then ran across a beautiful male Mourning Warbler, defending a territory right alongside the road.
After waking up in Placentia, we headed south towards Cape St. Mary’s for another one of the signature avian draws of Newfoundland. The Northern Gannet colony out at Cape St. Mary’s is legendary, and it didn’t disappoint. Gannets were constantly flying by, sometimes just an arm’s length away, there was constant courtship and bickering on Bird Rock right in front of us, and downy young at various states of maturity were scattered throughout.
We eventually had to pry ourselves away from this magical spectacle and head to the ferry that would take us across Cabot Strait and on to Nova Scotia. Most of the ferry ride was through the fog that the strait is infamous for, but as we approached Nova Scotia the next morning, it cleared enough for us to see some Great Shearwaters and singles of Manx Shearwater and Leach’s Storm-Petrel.
Our first major birding stop on Cape Breton Island was at Port Morien, where we got excellent views of several Nelson’s Sparrows singing from the tops of bushes near the marsh and doing flight displays. These Nelson’s Sparrows are of the subvirgatus subspecies, whose breeding range is restricted to salt marshes along the northeast coast of North America, only reaching as far south as northern New England. We also got to see our first Eastern Willets of the trip, along with scads of Savannah Sparrows in the dunes. A stop for lunch at the Lobster Kettle in Louisbourg was not only a hit for the food, but provided us with our first Common Eiders of the trip, swimming around in the harbor just outside. A stop at Point Aconi on the way towards the Cape Breton Highlands gave us a great comparison of Great and Double-crested cormorants, and then we climbed up into the Highlands.
The next couple of days we spent around Cape Breton Highlands National Park, one of the most stunningly beautiful areas in a region replete with natural beauty. Our boat trip out of Pleasant Bay was fortuitously timed as we encountered the first pods of Long-finned Pilot Whales to have arrived for the season, and we were able to get up close and personal with these fascinating marine migrants. Not only did we encounter many Gray Seals during the boat trip, we even spied a Black Bear browsing a meadow above one of the rocky coastal cliffs.
With our last couple of days in the province, we explored the area around Liscombe Lodge, on the east coast of Nova Scotia. We visited Waternish Road and Sinclair Lake Road, both of which continued to provide new species despite how far along on the trip we were. A particularly memorable encounter along the Sinclair Lake Road was a female Spruce Grouse and her chicks, and having time to watch them at length was a really special treat. Across the road from Liscombe Lodge we even had Black-backed Woodpecker, and great looks at some other boreal breeders like Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Blue-headed Vireo, and Boreal Chickadee, all before breakfast!
We rounded out the trip with a couple of surgical strikes to see Sora, Virginia Rail, and some Bobolinks as we headed towards Halifax for the final dinner of what was a truly memorable tour. Thanks all of you for making such a great group, and we can’t wait to travel with each and every one of you again!
--Doug & Chris
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
CACKLING GOOSE (Branta hutchinsii)
CANADA GOOSE (Branta canadensis)
WOOD DUCK (Aix sponsa)
AMERICAN BLACK DUCK (Anas rubripes)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
This cooperative male Spruce Grouse was the reward for the early birds on our pre-dawn excursion to the northern tip of the Cape Breton Highlands. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
RING-NECKED DUCK (Aythya collaris)
COMMON EIDER (DRESSER'S) (Somateria mollissima dresseri)
HOODED MERGANSER (Lophodytes cucullatus)
COMMON MERGANSER (Mergus merganser)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus) [I]
RUFFED GROUSE (Bonasa umbellus)
SPRUCE GROUSE (Falcipennis canadensis)
Gaviidae (Loons)
COMMON LOON (Gavia immer)
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
NORTHERN FULMAR (Fulmarus glacialis) [N]
GREAT SHEARWATER (Ardenna gravis)
One of the Long-finned Pilot Whales that greeted us on our whale watching trip out of Pleasant Bay. Ya gotta love it when a plan comes together! (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
SOOTY SHEARWATER (Ardenna grisea)
MANX SHEARWATER (Puffinus puffinus)
Hydrobatidae (Storm-Petrels)
LEACH'S STORM-PETREL (Oceanodroma leucorhoa)
Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets)
NORTHERN GANNET (Morus bassanus)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
DOUBLE-CRESTED CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax auritus)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias)
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
NORTHERN HARRIER (Circus cyaneus)
NORTHERN GOSHAWK (Accipiter gentilis)
This Cackling Goose was the first of its species ever recorded on the island of Newfoundland, and came as quite a shock on the boat trip to Witless Bay. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
BALD EAGLE (Haliaeetus leucocephalus)
BROAD-WINGED HAWK (Buteo platypterus)
RED-TAILED HAWK (Buteo jamaicensis)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
VIRGINIA RAIL (Rallus limicola)
SORA (Porzana carolina)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PIPING PLOVER (Charadrius melodus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)
WILLET (EASTERN) (Tringa semipalmata semipalmata)
WILSON'S SNIPE (Gallinago delicata)
Alcidae (Auks, Murres, and Puffins)
COMMON MURRE (Uria aalge)
THICK-BILLED MURRE (Uria lomvia)
In addition to the stout bill, and thick neck, this Thick-billed Murre was showing off a couple of other great features used to separate it from Common Murre: the obvious white tomial line on the bill, and the much blacker overall color than the Common Murres' brownish black. You can see the second Thick-billed Murre poking its bill out in the background to the right of the neck of the one that is front and center. The bridled morph of Common Murre, pictured here to the left of the Thick-billed Murres, was also fairly common in Witless Bay, a nice treat to those used to seeing Common Murres only in the Pacific Ocean basin, where this morph is extrememly rare! (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
RAZORBILL (Alca torda)
BLACK GUILLEMOT (Cepphus grylle)
ATLANTIC PUFFIN (Fratercula arctica)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (Rissa tridactyla)
RING-BILLED GULL (Larus delawarensis)
HERRING GULL (AMERICAN) (Larus argentatus smithsonianus)
GREAT BLACK-BACKED GULL (Larus marinus)
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
Atlantic Puffins are always a show-stopper, and we had phenomenal numbers on display during our boat trip to the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
ARCTIC TERN (Sterna paradisaea)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
MOURNING DOVE (Zenaida macroura)
Strigidae (Owls)
BARRED OWL (Strix varia)
Apodidae (Swifts)
CHIMNEY SWIFT (Chaetura pelagica)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
RUBY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Archilochus colubris)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
DOWNY WOODPECKER (Picoides pubescens)
HAIRY WOODPECKER (Picoides villosus)
BLACK-BACKED WOODPECKER (Picoides arcticus)
This male Black-backed Woodpecker posed nicely for us on our pre-breakfast outing near the grounds of Liscombe Lodge. This is a species that can be maddeningly difficult to see, so it was a special treat to have two good experiences with it during the tour. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
NORTHERN FLICKER (Colaptes auratus)
PILEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus pileatus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
OLIVE-SIDED FLYCATCHER (Contopus cooperi)
EASTERN WOOD-PEWEE (Contopus virens)
YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flaviventris)
ALDER FLYCATCHER (Empidonax alnorum)
LEAST FLYCATCHER (Empidonax minimus)
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
BLUE-HEADED VIREO (Vireo solitarius)
RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceus)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
GRAY JAY (Perisoreus canadensis)
BLUE JAY (Cyanocitta cristata)
Gannet brawl! Watching the Northern Gannet colony at Cape St. Mary's is always one of the special treats of this tour, and it certainly lived up to its reputation this time around! (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
AMERICAN CROW (Corvus brachyrhynchos)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Alaudidae (Larks)
HORNED LARK (Eremophila alpestris)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
TREE SWALLOW (Tachycineta bicolor)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE (Poecile atricapillus)
BOREAL CHICKADEE (Poecile hudsonicus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH (Sitta canadensis)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
WINTER WREN (Troglodytes hiemalis hiemalis)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDEN-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus satrapa)
This male Mourning Warbler was fortuitously singing its head off when we stopped to look at some Blue Jays along the road in southern Newfoundland, and it eventually gave everyone in the group good looks, despite the skulking nature of the species. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus calendula)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
SWAINSON'S THRUSH (Catharus ustulatus)
HERMIT THRUSH (Catharus guttatus)
AMERICAN ROBIN (Turdus migratorius)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris) [I]
Bombycillidae (Waxwings)
CEDAR WAXWING (Bombycilla cedrorum)
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
OVENBIRD (Seiurus aurocapilla)
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis)
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia)
NASHVILLE WARBLER (Oreothlypis ruficapilla)
MOURNING WARBLER (Geothlypis philadelphia)
COMMON YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis trichas)
AMERICAN REDSTART (Setophaga ruticilla)
NORTHERN PARULA (Setophaga americana)
This male Magnolia Warbler was just one of the showy northern breeding warblers we got to see repeatedly, this one being in the Cape Breton Highlands. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
MAGNOLIA WARBLER (Setophaga magnolia)
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER (Setophaga fusca)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
CHESTNUT-SIDED WARBLER (Setophaga pensylvanica)
BLACKPOLL WARBLER (Setophaga striata)
PALM WARBLER (YELLOW) (Setophaga palmarum hypochrysea)
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (MYRTLE) (Setophaga coronata coronata)
BLACK-THROATED GREEN WARBLER (Setophaga virens)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
NELSON'S SPARROW (ATLANTIC COAST) (Ammodramus nelsoni subvirgatus)
FOX SPARROW (RED) (Passerella iliaca iliaca)
DARK-EYED JUNCO (SLATE-COLORED) (Junco hyemalis hyemalis)
WHITE-THROATED SPARROW (Zonotrichia albicollis)
This Barred Owl was voted the bird of the trip, and with good reason! (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
SAVANNAH SPARROW (Passerculus sandwichensis)
SONG SPARROW (Melospiza melodia)
LINCOLN'S SPARROW (Melospiza lincolnii)
SWAMP SPARROW (Melospiza georgiana)
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
BOBOLINK (Dolichonyx oryzivorus)
RED-WINGED BLACKBIRD (Agelaius phoeniceus)
COMMON GRACKLE (Quiscalus quiscula)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
PINE GROSBEAK (Pinicola enucleator)
PURPLE FINCH (Haemorhous purpureus)
RED CROSSBILL (Loxia curvirostra) [E]
We had great looks at a pair of Evening Grosbeaks along the Waternish Road. At one point they even came down alongside the road to drink out of a little brook we were standing over. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
PINE SISKIN (Spinus pinus)
AMERICAN GOLDFINCH (Spinus tristis)
EVENING GROSBEAK (Coccothraustes vespertinus)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]
SNOWSHOE HARE (Lepus americanus)
PLAIN EASTERN CHIPMUNK (Tamias striatus)
WOODCHUCK (Marmota monax)
RED SQUIRREL (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus)
MEADOW VOLE (Microtus pennsylvanicus)
NORTH AMERICAN PORCUPINE (Erethizon dorsatum)
ATLANTIC WHITE-SIDED DOLPHIN (Lagenorhynchus acutus)
LONG-FINNED PILOT WHALE (Globicephala melas)
COMMON MINKE WHALE (Balaenoptera acutorostrata)
HUMPBACK WHALE (Megaptera novaeangliae)
COYOTE (Canis latrans)
The sunset over Pleasant Bay from our back porch was a beaut. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
BLACK BEAR (Ursus americanus)
GRAY SEAL (Halichoerus grypus)
WHITE-TAILED DEER (Odocoileus virginianus)
MOOSE (Alces alces)
Herps
GREEN FROG (Lithobates clamitans)
PICKEREL FROG (Lithobates palustris)
Totals for the tour: 118 bird taxa and 15 mammal taxa