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The grand sweep of Monte Alban's central plaza is very impressive -- particularly when you consider that the Zapotecs built it without the benefit of the wheel or any beasts of burden! Photo by guide Dan Lane.
Oaxaca City is quietly nestled in a dry intermontane valley in southwestern Mexico. It lies in the midst of thousands of years of human history and still-practiced artisan culture, and also lies at the epicenter of one of Mexico's regions of avian endemism -- and it has some unique culinary highlights as well. How's that for lucky?! We had a taste of the cultural background of the region: our driver Jorge's informative tours of the ruins were enjoyed by all, as was the demonstration of the traditional Zapotec rug weaving at Teotitlan. From Jorge, we learned that the Oaxaca valley is the site of one of the most significant events in the history of New World cultures: it is thought to be where corn (maize) was first cultivated! The Zapotec and Mixtec cultures have occupied the valley for nearly 4000 years, and the ruins of Monte Alban, Yagul, and Mitla speak volumes (and keep even more secrets) about their ways of life. Happily for us, these ruins also have habitat which is still home to some of the region's fascinating birds.
The isolated nature of the Oaxaca valley has resulted in high rates of endemism among many organisms there, and, of course, we particularly noted this with the birds! The rain shadow caused by the southern terminus of the Sierra Madre Oriental to the north of the valley results in the deciduous, downright arid, nature of the valley. Separated from other such habitats by elevation and more humid pine-oak forests on the slopes surrounding it, the valley has several species that are unique, including Oaxaca and Bridled sparrows, Boucard’s Wren, Ocellated Thrasher, White-throated Towhee, Beautiful Hummingbird, and Gray-breasted Woodpecker. Other west Mexican dry-habitat endemics are also present, such as the three vireos (Slaty, Golden, and Dwarf), Dusky Hummingbird, and Blue Mockingbird. The pine-oak forest on the slopes above are home to other endemics, particularly the very local Dwarf Jay, but also Russet Nightingale-Thrush, Collared Towhee, Rufous-capped Brushfinch, White-striped Woodcreeper, and Red Warbler. There is no shortage of birds to enjoy here!
Among our many good views were the pair of Fulvous Owls that caterwauled over us on Cerro San Felipe, the friendly Rufous-capped Warblers that were common in the deciduous scrub at most sites, the out-of-place Ovenbird that strutted around in front of us on the trail at Monte Alban, the striking Orange-breasted Bunting that gave us a fine show at Km 77, the bold Strong-billed Woodcreepers that put on a fine show in the pine-oak forest and the diminutive Dwarf Jays with which they traveled, the colorful Mountain Trogons that played coy with us, the lovely Crescent-chested (or was that “Chestnut-crested?”) Warblers that took part in the mixed flocks, or the subtly beautiful Slaty Vireo that showed off in front of us at Monte Alban. Other memories were the wonderful Oaxacan food we enjoyed, the tours of the archeological sites, and Monte Alban’s grandeur in particular… and, of course, that amazing experience with a Jaguarundi! I don't think anyone was prepared for such an experience with that cat!
These were only some of the memories we took from our trip. I hope you enjoyed them as much as I did. I look forward to seeing you all again on another outing, sometime down the road. Meanwhile, good birding!
-- Dan
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
Presa Piedra Azul and the mountain beyond is a great place to be introduced to Oaxaca birding. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
GADWALL (Anas strepera) [b] BLUE-WINGED TEAL (Anas discors) [b]
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (Anas crecca) [b]
RING-NECKED DUCK (Aythya collaris) [b]
RUDDY DUCK (Oxyura jamaicensis) [b]
Odontophoridae (New World Quail)
LONG-TAILED WOOD-PARTRIDGE (Dendrortyx macroura) [E*]
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LEAST GREBE (Tachybaptus dominicus)
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
An annoyed Northern (Mountain) Pygmy-Owl is still pretty cute. Photo by participant Alan Abel.
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea) REDDISH EGRET (Egretta rufescens)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens)
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)
HOOK-BILLED KITE (Chondrohierax uncinatus)
SHARP-SHINNED HAWK (Accipiter striatus)
COOPER'S HAWK (Accipiter cooperii)
The scenic Yagul Valley has been home to humans for millenia; the earliest evidence for the domestication of corn (maize) was found in caves occupied pre-historically here. Photo by participant Alan Abel.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) RED-TAILED HAWK (Buteo jamaicensis)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
AMERICAN COOT (Fulica americana) [b]
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
KILLDEER (Charadrius vociferus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) [b]
The handsome Gray-breasted Woodpecker is like a Gila Woodpecker wearing more makeup. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla) [b] WILSON'S SNIPE (Gallinago delicata) [b]
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
BAND-TAILED PIGEON (Patagioenas fasciata)
INCA DOVE (Columbina inca)
COMMON GROUND-DOVE (Columbina passerina)
WHITE-WINGED DOVE (Zenaida asiatica)
Strigidae (Owls)
FLAMMULATED OWL (Psiloscops flammeolus) [*]
WHISKERED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops trichopsis)
NORTHERN PYGMY-OWL (MOUNTAIN) (Glaucidium gnoma gnoma)
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum)
FULVOUS OWL (Strix fulvescens)
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
MEXICAN WHIP-POOR-WILL (Antrostomus arizonae)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
GREEN VIOLETEAR (Colibri thalassinus)
MAGNIFICENT HUMMINGBIRD (Eugenes fulgens)
BLUE-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Lampornis clemenciae)
BEAUTIFUL HUMMINGBIRD (Calothorax pulcher) [E]
RUBY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Archilochus colubris) [b]
It can be surprisingly chilly in the highlands. Witness the hats and gloves on many in the group -- definitely appreciated as we birded along Cabeza de Vaca trail! Photo by participant Alan Abel.
RUFOUS HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus rufus) [b] DUSKY HUMMINGBIRD (Cynanthus sordidus) [E]
BERYLLINE HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia beryllina)
GREEN-FRONTED HUMMINGBIRD (CINNAMON-SIDED) (Amazilia viridifrons wagneri)
WHITE-EARED HUMMINGBIRD (Hylocharis leucotis)
Trogonidae (Trogons)
MOUNTAIN TROGON (Trogon mexicanus)
Momotidae (Motmots)
RUSSET-CROWNED MOTMOT (Momotus mexicanus)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
Another skulker that was extraordinarily view-able on this tour was Russet Nightingale-Thrush. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon) [b] GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
ACORN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes formicivorus)
GRAY-BREASTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes hypopolius) [E]
YELLOW-BELLIED SAPSUCKER (Sphyrapicus varius) [b]
LADDER-BACKED WOODPECKER (Picoides scalaris) [*]
HAIRY WOODPECKER (SOUTH MEXICAN) (Picoides villosus jardinii)
NORTHERN FLICKER (RED-SHAFTED) (Colaptes auratus mexicanus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara cheriway)
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
This lovely Lobelia is an important hummingbird food source. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
RED-CROWNED PARROT (Amazona viridigenalis) [I] RED-LORED PARROT (Amazona autumnalis) [I]
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
STRONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER (CENTRAL AMERICAN) (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus sclateri)
WHITE-STRIPED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes leucogaster) [E]
SPOT-CROWNED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes affinis affinis)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
NORTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma imberbe)
GREENISH ELAENIA (Myiopagis viridicata)
TUFTED FLYCATCHER (Mitrephanes phaeocercus)
Now that we know the voice of this distinctive population of Strong-billed Woodcreeper, we find them with regularity on Cerro San Felipe. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
GREATER PEWEE (Contopus pertinax) HAMMOND'S FLYCATCHER (Empidonax hammondii) [b]
DUSKY FLYCATCHER (Empidonax oberholseri) [b]
BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans)
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer) [*]
ASH-THROATED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus cinerascens) [b]
NUTTING'S FLYCATCHER (NUTTING'S) (Myiarchus nuttingi inquietus)
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (SOCIAL) (Myiozetetes similis pallidiventris)
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
CASSIN'S KINGBIRD (Tyrannus vociferans) [b]
THICK-BILLED KINGBIRD (Tyrannus crassirostris)
WESTERN KINGBIRD (Tyrannus verticalis) [b]
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
ROSE-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus aglaiae)
Laniidae (Shrikes)
LOGGERHEAD SHRIKE (Lanius ludovicianus)
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
SLATY VIREO (Vireo brevipennis) [E]
DWARF VIREO (Vireo nelsoni) [E]
PLUMBEOUS VIREO (Vireo plumbeus)
CASSIN'S VIREO (Vireo cassinii) [b]
BLUE-HEADED VIREO (Vireo solitarius) [b]
HUTTON'S VIREO (Vireo huttoni)
GOLDEN VIREO (Vireo hypochryseus) [E]
WARBLING VIREO (Vireo gilvus) [b]
CHESTNUT-SIDED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius melitophrys)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
The oak-covered hills above the town of Teotitlan del Valle are home to several of Oaxaca's specialties -- including Ocellated Thrasher and Bridled and Oaxaca sparrows -- as well as Lesser Roadrunner. Photo by participant Alan Abel.
DWARF JAY (Cyanolyca nanus) [E] WHITE-THROATED MAGPIE-JAY (Calocitta formosa)
STELLER'S JAY (CENTRAL AMERICAN) (Cyanocitta stelleri coronata)
WESTERN SCRUB-JAY (SUMICHRAST'S) (Aphelocoma californica sumichrasti)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
NORTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx serripennis)
VIOLET-GREEN SWALLOW (Tachycineta thalassina)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
MEXICAN CHICKADEE (Poecile sclateri)
BRIDLED TITMOUSE (Baeolophus wollweberi)
Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
A delicious bowl of Aztec Soup helps warm us up after a cold morning on the mountain! Photo by guide Dan Lane.
BUSHTIT (BLACK-EARED) (Psaltriparus minimus melanotis) Sittidae (Nuthatches)
WHITE-BREASTED NUTHATCH (INTERIOR WEST) (Sitta carolinensis mexicana) [*]
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
BROWN CREEPER (ALBESCENS/ALTICOLA) (Certhia americana alticola)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
ROCK WREN (Salpinctes obsoletus)
CANYON WREN (Catherpes mexicanus) [*]
HOUSE WREN (NORTHERN) (Troglodytes aedon parkmanii) [b*]
HOUSE WREN (BROWN-THROATED) (Troglodytes aedon brunneicollis)
Even though we were wearing coats against the cold, we were regularly reminded that we were indeed in the tropics! Photo by guide Dan Lane.
BEWICK'S WREN (Thryomanes bewickii) [*] GRAY-BARRED WREN (Campylorhynchus megalopterus) [E]
BOUCARD'S WREN (Campylorhynchus jocosus) [E]
HAPPY WREN (Pheugopedius felix) [*]
BANDED WREN (Thryophilus pleurostictus)
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (CENTRAL AMERICAN) (Henicorhina leucophrys festiva)
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
BLUE-GRAY GNATCATCHER (Polioptila caerulea) [b]
WHITE-LORED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila albiloris)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
Boucard's Wren are the Oaxacan version of Cactus Wren, with the comparable habit of nesting in dense, thorny cactus clusters. Photo by participant Alan Abel.
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus calendula) [b] Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
BROWN-BACKED SOLITAIRE (Myadestes occidentalis)
ORANGE-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus aurantiirostris) [*]
RUSSET NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus occidentalis) [E]
HERMIT THRUSH (Catharus guttatus) [b]
CLAY-COLORED THRUSH (Turdus grayi)
RUFOUS-BACKED ROBIN (Turdus rufopalliatus) [E]
AMERICAN ROBIN (Turdus migratorius)
AZTEC THRUSH (Ridgwayia pinicola) [E]
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
BLUE MOCKINGBIRD (Melanotis caerulescens) [E]
CURVE-BILLED THRASHER (CURVIROSTRE GROUP) (Toxostoma curvirostre curvirostre)
OCELLATED THRASHER (Toxostoma ocellatum) [E]
NORTHERN MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus polyglottos)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
AMERICAN PIPIT (Anthus rubescens)
Bombycillidae (Waxwings)
CEDAR WAXWING (Bombycilla cedrorum) [*]
Ptiliogonatidae (Silky-flycatchers)
GRAY SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Ptiliogonys cinereus)
Peucedramidae (Olive Warbler)
OLIVE WARBLER (Peucedramus taeniatus)
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
Although very similarly colored to the Chestnut-capped Brushfinch, this Collared Towhee is nevertheless a rather different bird behaviorally, and difficult to mistake. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
OVENBIRD (Seiurus aurocapilla) [b] LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia motacilla) [b]
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia) [b]
CRESCENT-CHESTED WARBLER (Oreothlypis superciliosa)
ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLER (Oreothlypis celata) [b]
NASHVILLE WARBLER (Oreothlypis ruficapilla) [b]
VIRGINIA'S WARBLER (Oreothlypis virginiae) [b]
MACGILLIVRAY'S WARBLER (Geothlypis tolmiei) [b]
COMMON YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis trichas) [*]
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (AUDUBON'S) (Setophaga coronata auduboni) [b]
BLACK-THROATED GRAY WARBLER (Setophaga nigrescens)
Rufous-capped Warblers were common in dense, brushy areas. Photo by participant Alan Abel.
TOWNSEND'S WARBLER (Setophaga townsendi) [b] HERMIT WARBLER (Setophaga occidentalis) [b]
RUFOUS-CAPPED WARBLER (RUFIFRONS GROUP) (Basileuterus rufifrons rufifrons)
GOLDEN-BROWED WARBLER (Basileuterus belli)
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla) [b]
RED-FACED WARBLER (Cardellina rubrifrons) [b]
RED WARBLER (Cardellina rubra) [E]
PAINTED REDSTART (Myioborus pictus)
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus miniatus)
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
CINNAMON-BELLIED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa baritula baritula)
WHITE-COLLARED SEEDEATER (CINNAMON-RUMPED) (Sporophila torqueola torqueola) [E]
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
Among the most difficult of the Oaxacan endemics to see in the winter, Oaxaca Sparrows usually stick to dense brush. This one was rather an extrovert, however. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
BRIDLED SPARROW (Peucaea mystacalis) [E] CHIPPING SPARROW (Spizella passerina) [b]
CLAY-COLORED SPARROW (Spizella pallida) [b]
LARK SPARROW (Chondestes grammacus) [b]
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BRUSHFINCH (CHESTNUT-CAPPED) (Arremon brunneinucha suttoni)
YELLOW-EYED JUNCO (Junco phaeonotus)
VESPER SPARROW (Pooecetes gramineus) [b]
LINCOLN'S SPARROW (Melospiza lincolnii) [b]
WHITE-THROATED TOWHEE (Melozone albicollis) [E]
RUFOUS-CROWNED SPARROW (Aimophila ruficeps)
The colorful Orange-breasted Bunting was a big hit on the tour! Photo by guide Dan Lane.
OAXACA SPARROW (Aimophila notosticta) [E] SPOTTED TOWHEE (MACULATUS GROUP) (Pipilo maculatus oaxacae)
COLLARED TOWHEE (Pipilo ocai) [E]
RUFOUS-CAPPED BRUSHFINCH (Atlapetes pileatus) [E]
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
HEPATIC TANAGER (NORTHERN) (Piranga flava hepatica)
SUMMER TANAGER (Piranga rubra) [b]
WESTERN TANAGER (Piranga ludoviciana) [b]
ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus ludovicianus) [b]
BLACK-HEADED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus melanocephalus) [b]
BLUE GROSBEAK (Passerina caerulea) [b]
INDIGO BUNTING (Passerina cyanea) [b]
ORANGE-BREASTED BUNTING (Passerina leclancherii)
VARIED BUNTING (Passerina versicolor)
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
EASTERN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella magna)
GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus)
BRONZED COWBIRD (Molothrus aeneus)
BLACK-VENTED ORIOLE (Icterus wagleri)
ORCHARD ORIOLE (ORCHARD) (Icterus spurius spurius) [b]
STREAK-BACKED ORIOLE (Icterus pustulatus)
BULLOCK'S ORIOLE (Icterus bullockii) [b]
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
ELEGANT EUPHONIA (Euphonia elegantissima)
HOUSE FINCH (COMMON) (Haemorhous mexicanus roseipectus)
LESSER GOLDFINCH (Spinus psaltria)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]
Wow! Extended views of this Jaguarundi were certainly unexpected! This cat is one of the the Neotropic's more poorly-known mammals. Photo by guide Dan Lane.
EASTERN COTTONTAIL (Sylvilagus floridanus) MEXICAN GRAY SQUIRREL (Sciurus aureogaster)
HISPID COTTON RAT (Sigmodon hispidus)
JAGUARUNDI (Puma yagouaroundi)
Totals for the tour: 190 bird taxa and 4 mammal taxa