South-west Mexico makes for some surprisingly diverse and interesting birding. Add the fascinating ancient Zapotec culture and unique cuisine, and Oaxaca ranks up there as a top notch birding and culture destination. The great habitat diversity took us from cactus-filled low desert canyons near Totolapan, to the dry scrub habitat of Oaxaca valleys, into the oak-scrub foothills, and finally the piney-oak montane forest up and over 10,000ft.
Despite a hot week and particularly dry season we had some big successes and a few exciting finds. Of particular note was a quick but good flyover sighting of Military Macaws, a vulnerable and declining species. This was a first sighting in Oaxaca valley/Ixtlán area and about 70 miles to the southeast of the nearest population area. A fortuitous start to a full day in the mountains enjoying some Mexican endemics and a number of western warblers and other migrants.
Another notable find was Cinnamon-tailed Sparrow, a very range-restricted endemic species normally confined to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. It was first sighted in the desert canyon at km 77 near San Pedro Totolapa last year and re-found a week before our trip in the same canyon. While we watched a Russet-crowned Motmot in the canyon, a Red-tailed Hawk caught a snake and flew a short distance away to finish its prey. We also had a quick viewing of the elusive Lesser Roadrunner, good looks at high priority birds Orange-breasted Bunting, Green-fronted (cinnamon sided) hummingbird, White-throated Magpie Jay, and even a Squirrel Cuckoo! There were excellent photography opportunities of the Mexican endemic Red Warbler, Dwarf Jay, Oaxaca Sparrow, and Ocellated Thrasher. We were further buoyed by finding some easy-to-miss birds like Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer, Elegant Trogon, Amethyst-throated Mountain Gem, and West Mexican subspecies of Squirrel Cuckoo. Finally, our night birding was quite memorable, with amazing interactions between two Fulvous Owls, singing Mexican Whip-poor-wills, and even some cool endemic mountain scorpions.
Complimenting our birding excursions, we learned about natural dyes and weaving techniques in a well-known weaving studio in Teotitlán, and toured archeological sites with our super knowledgable guide, Jorge. Our group was particularly adventurous in trying some of the local food delicacies, including chapulines (grasshoppers), escamoles (ant larvae), and agave worms (of the agave plant). They call it the protein of the future, but it turns out Zapotecs had already figured out how to make them palatable and delicious (especially with fresh guacamole!). And of course we had many opportunities for the foodies to enjoy Oaxacan specialty dishes like giant Tlayudas, various moles, memalitas, and sopa aztecas.
Special thanks to our drivers Arturo and Jorge who made long rides and logistics seamless for the whole group, always willing to lend a hand and even find a bird or two!
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BLUE-WINGED TEAL (Spatula discors)
Numerous at Presa Piedra Azul
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (Anas crecca)
CANVASBACK (Aythya valisineria)
*Rare in Oaxaca. A good find at Presa Piedra Azul
RING-NECKED DUCK (Aythya collaris)
RUDDY DUCK (Oxyura jamaicensis)
WEST MEXICAN CHACHALACA (Ortalis poliocephala) [E*]
LEAST GREBE (Tachybaptus dominicus)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
BAND-TAILED PIGEON (Patagioenas fasciata)
A couple of flyovers in the Sierra Madre
INCA DOVE (Columbina inca)
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi) [*]
WHITE-WINGED DOVE (Zenaida asiatica)
MOURNING DOVE (Zenaida macroura)
LESSER ROADRUNNER (Geococcyx velox)
Unmistakable roadrunner crossing a dirt road at Km77 desert canyon. A few folks got longer stationary views, noting the plainer throat and breast than Greater Roadrunner.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (WEST MEXICO) (Piaya cayana mexicana)
Big highlight of our desert canyon birding day was seeing this uncommon Squirrel Cuckoo fly directly over our heads!
MEXICAN WHIP-POOR-WILL (Antrostomus arizonae) [*]
Heard several after dinner and in the evening at Corral de Piedra (La Cumbre)
PLAIN-CAPPED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster constantii)
Several great and extended looks at this species while in flight and perched.
AMETHYST-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis amethystinus)
A tough customer, but we did see this large hummingbird a few times in the extensive flowerbanks at Corral de Piedra.
BLUE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis clemenciae)
Great looks during lunch at the appropriately named Cafe Colibri.
DUSKY HUMMINGBIRD (Phaeoptila sordida) [E]
We saw this endemic a number of times wherever there was blooming cactus.
WHITE-EARED HUMMINGBIRD (Basilinna leucotis)
Showed well a few times and we even found one roosting in some dense vegetation on our owling night.
GREEN-FRONTED HUMMINGBIRD (CINNAMON-SIDED) (Ramosomyia viridifrons wagneri) [E]
Beautiful looks at this unique hummingbird at km 77. Chris was thrilled to note some actual cinnamon color on one individual.
BERYLLINE HUMMINGBIRD (Saucerottia beryllina)
Seen at the hotel.
AMERICAN COOT (Fulica americana)
KILLDEER (Charadrius vociferus)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla)
Several on the far end of the reservoir Piedra Azul
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
One immature bird
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens)
WESTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus ibis)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)
At least one seen not far from the airport on the last full day.
SHARP-SHINNED HAWK (Accipiter striatus)
Soaring with a Cooper's Hawk on hwy Benito Juarez.
COOPER'S HAWK (Accipiter cooperii)
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus)
One nice look of a perched bird at Hacienda Aranjuez.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus)
Certainly the most debated bird of the trip after an (comically) inconclusive sighting on the first day. Fortunately for the two leaders, we were able to settle the matter definitively later on in the trip with a much better sighting!
ZONE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albonotatus)
Quick but nice looks at this interesting raptor in two different locations in the mountains.
RED-TAILED HAWK (Buteo jamaicensis)
The most numerous raptor of the trip, both light and dark morphs.
GREAT HORNED OWL (Bubo virginianus)
Somewhat surprisingly active bird flying through the canyon several times during our last morning.
NORTHERN PYGMY-OWL (MOUNTAIN) (Glaucidium gnoma gnoma)
Fantastic scope views of this bird calling in a large pine tree.
FULVOUS OWL (Strix fulvescens)
A local specialty this far north; we had quite the experience with two vocal and territorial birds up at Corral de Piedra.
ELEGANT TROGON (Trogon elegans)
Nice find by Dave of this bird at Hacienda Aranjuez.
MOUNTAIN TROGON (Trogon mexicanus) [*]
RUSSET-CROWNED MOTMOT (Momotus mexicanus)
Fantastic looks at two different individuals near Totolapan. This motmot is known only to West Mexico and Guatemala.
YELLOW-BELLIED SAPSUCKER (Sphyrapicus varius)
A good look at this migrant woodpecker on our first morning near the reservoir.
ACORN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes formicivorus) [*]
GRAY-BREASTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes hypopolius) [E]
We got our fill of these endemic woodpeckers throughout the valley and km77.
GOLDEN-FRONTED WOODPECKER (WEST MEXICO) (Melanerpes aurifrons polygrammus)
LADDER-BACKED WOODPECKER (Dryobates scalaris)
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara plancus)
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
MERLIN (Falco columbarius)
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
MILITARY MACAW (Ara militaris)
Wow! Quite the surprise flyover of these unmistakably large West Mexican Macaws over the road intersection at La Cumbre.
STRONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER (CENTRAL AMERICAN) (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus sclateri)
Fortunate to see this uncommon woodcreeper up close. West Mexican/Central American subspecies is a likely candidate for a split from the 2 other sub-specific groups in Amazonia and northern South America.
SPOT-CROWNED WOODCREEPER (NORTHERN) (Lepidocolaptes affinis affinis)
Two individuals seen well foraging together in La Cumbre.
NORTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma imberbe)
We saw this tiny flycatcher with notably outsized attitude at km 77 canyon, as well as hearing several others singing.
TUFTED FLYCATCHER (MEXICAN) (Mitrephanes phaeocercus phaeocercus)
We struggled to get good views of this unique flycatcher on the first day, but eventually caught up with some confiding and showy birds a few days into the trip.
GREATER PEWEE (Contopus pertinax)
Midday at Pollo Nino we saw a couple pewees flycatching out in an open yard.
LEAST FLYCATCHER (Empidonax minimus)
HAMMOND'S FLYCATCHER (Empidonax hammondii)
DUSKY FLYCATCHER (Empidonax oberholseri)
A number of good study birds in scrub/desert areas.
WESTERN FLYCATCHER (Empidonax difficilis)
Singing and seen briefly in La Cumbre.
BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans)
SAY'S PHOEBE (Sayornis saya)
Uncommon. We saw an individual at Presa Piedra Azul on the first day.
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
Lots of nice looks at both sexes.
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer)
ASH-THROATED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus cinerascens)
NUTTING'S FLYCATCHER (NUTTING'S) (Myiarchus nuttingi inquietus)
A number of decent views of this West Mexican specialty.
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (VERMILION-CROWNED) (Myiozetetes similis texensis)
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Heard every morning on the hotel property.
CASSIN'S KINGBIRD (Tyrannus vociferans)
The most abundant kingbird we saw on the trip.
THICK-BILLED KINGBIRD (Tyrannus crassirostris)
A few distant birds and one seen well at Aranjuez.
CHESTNUT-SIDED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius melitophrys)
Never actually got eyes on it, but heard several different birds singing in the mountains.
GOLDEN VIREO (Vireo hypochryseus) [E]
Hotel bird for some, and seen really well by the group in the willows near the reservoir.
DWARF VIREO (Vireo nelsoni) [E]
Seen remarkably well (for this notoriously skulky bird!) in a few different locations.
HUTTON'S VIREO (Vireo huttoni)
Mostly heard singing, but one or two individuals were sighted well enough to note some field marks differentiating it from Ruby-crowned Kinglet.
CASSIN'S VIREO (Vireo cassinii) [E]
One fairly definitive bird and another Cassin's/Plumbeous type undefined.
WARBLING VIREO (Vireo gilvus)
LOGGERHEAD SHRIKE (Lanius ludovicianus)
Commonly seen on electrical wires in the valley.
DWARF JAY (Cyanolyca nanus) [E]
Woot! Nice looks at a roving flock of this most-wanted species.
WHITE-THROATED MAGPIE-JAY (Calocitta formosa)
Distant but definitive at km77.
STELLER'S JAY (MIDDLE AMERICAN) (Cyanocitta stelleri coronata)
WOODHOUSE'S SCRUB-JAY (SUMICHRAST'S) (Aphelocoma woodhouseii sumichrasti)
We ran into a few flocks of these social jays (another split candidate!).
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
MEXICAN CHICKADEE (Poecile sclateri)
BRIDLED TITMOUSE (Baeolophus wollweberi)
Had a few sneak peaks at these impressive crested tits.
VIOLET-GREEN SWALLOW (Tachycineta thalassina)
NORTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx serripennis)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
BUSHTIT (MELANOTIS GROUP) (Psaltriparus minimus melanotis)
Dark-cheeked group in Mexico were fun to see foraging through the scrub.
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Corthylio calendula)
BROWN CREEPER (ALBESCENS/ALTICOLA) (Certhia americana alticola)
BLUE-GRAY GNATCATCHER (Polioptila caerulea)
WHITE-LORED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila albiloris)
One seen really well at km 77.
ROCK WREN (Salpinctes obsoletus)
Aka the 'Temple wren'; we did indeed see one singing at Mitla and had beautiful views out in the open at Piedra Azul.
CANYON WREN (Catherpes mexicanus)
HOUSE WREN (BROWN-THROATED) (Troglodytes aedon brunneicollis)
Great looks at a singing bird at Cafe Colibri.
BEWICK'S WREN (MEXICANUS GROUP) (Thryomanes bewickii mexicanus)
GRAY-BARRED WREN (Campylorhynchus megalopterus) [E]
Mostly high in the pines but good looks at groups of these cool arboreal wrens foraging in the canopies.
RUFOUS-NAPED WREN (SCLATER'S) (Campylorhynchus rufinucha humilis)
Several vocal groups at km 77.
BOUCARD'S WREN (Campylorhynchus jocosus) [E]
We seemed to run into these endemic wrens all over the valley, one of our first species out the gate below Teotitlan.
HAPPY WREN (Pheugopedius felix) [*]
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (CENTRAL AMERICAN) (Henicorhina leucophrys mexicana) [*]
Oddly singing bird on our last afternoon at La Cumbre.
BLUE MOCKINGBIRD (Melanotis caerulescens) [E]
Great views of this special endemic in several locations.
CURVE-BILLED THRASHER (CURVIROSTRE GROUP) (Toxostoma curvirostre curvirostre)
OCELLATED THRASHER (Toxostoma ocellatum) [E]
Outstanding views of a singing bird.
NORTHERN MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus polyglottos)
BROWN-BACKED SOLITAIRE (Myadestes occidentalis)
Heard singing and at least one seen well somewhat unusually below the pines near Presa Piedra Azul.
ORANGE-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus aurantiirostris) [*]
RUSSET NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus occidentalis) [E]
Lucky to see this cryptic thrush remarkably well at the water dish at Cafe Colibri.
HERMIT THRUSH (Catharus guttatus)
CLAY-COLORED THRUSH (Turdus grayi) [I]
AMERICAN ROBIN (MIGRATORIUS GROUP) (Turdus migratorius phillipsi)
RUFOUS-BACKED ROBIN (Turdus rufopalliatus) [I]
Other then the frequent calling heard by all, this seemed to be an extracurricular thrush to actually see it on the hotel grounds!
GRAY SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Ptiliogonys cinereus)
Impressive birds seen on numerous occasions.
OLIVE WARBLER (Peucedramus taeniatus)
Took a bit of effort but did manage to lay eyes on these canopy dwelling 'warblers'.
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]
HOUSE FINCH (COMMON) (Haemorhous mexicanus roseipectus)
RED CROSSBILL (Loxia curvirostra stricklandi) [*]
LESSER GOLDFINCH (Spinus psaltria)
CINNAMON-TAILED SPARROW (Peucaea sumichrasti) [E]
Another rarity and only the third record in this location. Normally Cinnamon-tailed Sparrow is confined to a very small range on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.
BRIDLED SPARROW (Peucaea mystacalis) [E]
Striking endemic sparrows with some amazing vocalizations.
CHIPPING SPARROW (Spizella passerina)
CLAY-COLORED SPARROW (Spizella pallida)
A few picked out amongst the more numerous Chipping Sparrows.
LARK SPARROW (Chondestes grammacus)
Beautiful migrant species on its wintering grounds.
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BRUSHFINCH (CHESTNUT-CAPPED) (Arremon brunneinucha suttoni)
Striking highland brushfinch at Cafe Colibri and in La Cumbre.
YELLOW-EYED JUNCO (Junco phaeonotus)
Common juncos of the highland pine forests.
LINCOLN'S SPARROW (Melospiza lincolnii)
One sneaky individual hopping through the undergrowth of the flower banks.
WHITE-THROATED TOWHEE (Melozone albicollis) [E]
Ubiquitous endemic seen every day.
RUFOUS-CROWNED SPARROW (Aimophila ruficeps)
Uncommon canyon-dwelling sparrow seen at Ojo de Agua.
OAXACA SPARROW (Aimophila notosticta) [E]
We ended up seeing this very local endemic in a number of locations.
SPOTTED TOWHEE (MACULATUS GROUP) (Pipilo maculatus oaxacae)
COLLARED TOWHEE (Pipilo ocai) [E]
One singing bird seen really well in a brushy area below the pines at La Cumbre.
RUFOUS-CAPPED BRUSHFINCH (Atlapetes pileatus) [E]
A fortunate find at the water feature at Cafe Colibri.
BLACK-VENTED ORIOLE (Icterus wagleri)
Beautiful Mexican/N central American Oriole.
ORCHARD ORIOLE (Icterus spurius)
Wintering birds on the hotel grounds.
STREAK-BACKED ORIOLE (Icterus pustulatus)
Striking Oriole most notably seen at km 77.
BULLOCK'S ORIOLE (Icterus bullockii)
SCOTT'S ORIOLE (Icterus parisorum)
Several seen in the highlands of La Cumbre.
BRONZED COWBIRD (Molothrus aeneus)
Striking males seen at hotel.
GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus)
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia)
CRESCENT-CHESTED WARBLER (Oreothlypis superciliosa)
A few decent looks at this interesting warbler. Many singing on territory.
TENNESSEE WARBLER (Leiothlypis peregrina)
ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLER (Leiothlypis celata)
NASHVILLE WARBLER (Leiothlypis ruficapilla)
VIRGINIA'S WARBLER (Leiothlypis virginiae)
Some quick looks at this migrant western warbler.
MACGILLIVRAY'S WARBLER (Geothlypis tolmiei)
Crushing views of this skulky warbler at San Miguel Arkanhel.
COMMON YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis trichas)
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (AUDUBON'S) (Setophaga coronata auduboni)
YELLOW-THROATED WARBLER (Setophaga dominica)
A few saw this uncommon wintering bird at the hotel on departure day.
BLACK-THROATED GRAY WARBLER (Setophaga nigrescens)
TOWNSEND'S WARBLER (Setophaga townsendi)
Outnumbered the Hermit Warblers this trip.
HERMIT WARBLER (Setophaga occidentalis)
RUFOUS-CAPPED WARBLER (RUFIFRONS GROUP) (Basileuterus rufifrons rufifrons)
Lots of satisfying views of this south-of-the-border warbler.
GOLDEN-BROWED WARBLER (Basileuterus belli)
Striking warbler of thickets in the piney highlands.
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla)
RED WARBLER (Cardellina rubra) [E]
Bird of the trip? The votes say aye. Perhaps our slam-dunk viewing and photography opportunity on the last day made this unique endemic the inevitable victor.
PAINTED REDSTART (Myioborus pictus)
Spectacular warbler seen above Teotitlan off of hwy Benito Juarez.
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus miniatus)
Singing birds gave us a show.
HEPATIC TANAGER (NORTHERN) (Piranga flava hepatica)
Gray-cheeked Tanager.
SUMMER TANAGER (Piranga rubra)
WESTERN TANAGER (Piranga ludoviciana)
BLACK-HEADED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus melanocephalus)
BLUE GROSBEAK (Passerina caerulea)
INDIGO BUNTING (Passerina cyanea) [*]
ORANGE-BREASTED BUNTING (Passerina leclancherii) [E]
World class plumage and local endemic seen at and near km 77.
VARIED BUNTING (Passerina versicolor)
CINNAMON-BELLIED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa baritula baritula)
CINNAMON-RUMPED SEEDEATER (Sporophila torqueola torqueola) [E]
Brief but perched nicely near the hotel lobby.
EASTERN COTTONTAIL (Sylvilagus floridanus)
MEXICAN GRAY SQUIRREL (Sciurus aureogaster)
HISPID COTTON RAT (Sigmodon hispidus)
Totals for the tour: 176 bird taxa and 3 mammal taxa