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Field Guides Tour Report
Western Panama: Chiriqui & Bocas del Toro III 2017
Dec 8, 2017 to Dec 17, 2017
Jesse Fagan

A full rainbow marks the way to the pot of gold in La Amistad NP. View from the patio at Mount Totumas Cloud Forest Reserve. Photo by guide Jesse Fagan.

We timed it perfectly for the Storm of the Century. Nevertheless, it didn't stop us from getting out in the rain and wind to see birds. And despite many uncontrollable obstacles in our way, we saw 258 bird taxa, 9 species of mammal, and had a heck of a critter list.

It was also a lot of fun.

Thanks to this understanding and "fit-for-whatever" group, who never let Mother Nature spoil our fun. Well, really, Mother Nature gave us so many wonderful highlights we might have to thank her. Birds like Black-and-white Owl from the Tranquilo Bay tower, hummingbirds galore at Mount Totumas (including that tiny Magenta-throated), both silky-flycatchers feeding in a fruiting tree, Sulphur-winged Parakeets perched at eye-level, a fiery-eyed Dull-mantled Antbird (maybe they should change the name?), lekking Golden-collared Manakins, and all those tanager flocks on the Fortuna Road! It was also fun because of the great staff at both Tranquilo Bay (Jim, Jay, and Renee) and Mount Totumas (Jeff, Alma, and Karin) where we slept and ate very well.

Happy New Year, and I wish you all the best in 2018.

Jesse, aka Motmot (from Lima, Peru)

One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
BLACK GUAN (Chamaepetes unicolor) – One seen briefly in the forest at Mount Totumas. [E]
Odontophoridae (New World Quail)
SPOTTED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus guttatus) [*]

Participant Chris Wood caught this Fiery-throated Hummingbird at precisely the right moment!

Fregatidae (Frigatebirds)
MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens) – Common around Tranquilo Bay.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) – Several around Puerta Robalo.
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis) – Mostly immatures. Good numbers around the islands in Bocas del Toro. Based on range, this was most likely the resident subspecies, carolinensis.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias) – Just one on the Bocas side.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba) – Seen in the marshes near Puerta Robola and inland a bit.
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula) – A pair at Puerta Robalo.
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea) – Fairly common at Puerta Robalo and in the mangroves.
TRICOLORED HERON (Egretta tricolor) – Just one along the mangroves during our trip over to Puerta Robalo.
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) – Common in and around Fortuna and Puerta Robalo.
GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens) – Not many, but a few were seen on the Bocas side. This species is replaced by Striated Heron in the Canal area.
YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nyctanassa violacea) – Several were seen at Puerta Robalo.
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius) – One at our gas station stop!
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – Good numbers were in the wet fields leaving Puerta Robalo.
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – Singles were seen most days on the Bocas side.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
DOUBLE-TOOTHED KITE (Harpagus bidentatus) – One immature was seen in the forest at Tranquilo Bay.

Our group photo (along with Jeffrey and Alma) from the balcony at Mount Totumas.

COMMON BLACK HAWK (MANGROVE) (Buteogallus anthracinus subtilis) – One distant soaring bird was spotted at Green Acres Cacoa Farm.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris) – Seen most days when it was dry. Common along the entrance road at Mount Totumas.
BROAD-WINGED HAWK (Buteo platypterus) – One was heard on the Tranquilo Bay property and seen again soaring at Mount Totumas.
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) – A light morph was soaring above the forest on the Fortuna Road.
RED-TAILED HAWK (COSTARICENSIS) (Buteo jamaicensis costaricensis) – The resident subspecies was seen a couple of times at Mount Totumas. The subspecies is found only in the Chiriqui Highlands of Costa Rica and W Panama. [E]
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
WHITE-THROATED CRAKE (Laterallus albigularis) [*]
GRAY-BREASTED CRAKE (Laterallus exilis) [*]
GRAY-COWLED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus) [*]
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinicus) – One was along the entrance road to Puerta Robalo.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) – A recent invader to southern Central America. Expanding its range as the habitat opens up.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
NORTHERN JACANA (Jacana spinosa)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus) – One in flight during our boat crossing to the mainland.
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
LAUGHING GULL (Leucophaeus atricilla) – Small numbers in the Bocas area and on the docks at Puerto Robalo.
ROYAL TERN (Thalasseus maximus) – Good numbers around the Bocas islands and sitting on docks.
SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis) – A group of 15 or so were seen sitting on pilings at Puerto Robalo.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) – Seen along the Fortuna Road (Bocas side).
BAND-TAILED PIGEON (Patagioenas fasciata) – The large pigeon seen in flight and perched at Mount Totumas. This species is found down into South America in the Andes.
SHORT-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas nigrirostris) – Incredible looks at a normally canopy forest species. Several were feeding in a low bush at eye-level on the Tranquilo Bay property.
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)
RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon montana) [*]
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
GROOVE-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga sulcirostris)
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana) – One at Mount Totumas was unexpected.
MANGROVE CUCKOO (Coccyzus minor) – A good bird to see. We had one at Tranquilo Bay where they are winter migrants.

This awesome photo of a Speckled Tanager was taken by participant Mark Schocken along the Fortuna Road.

Strigidae (Owls)
MOTTLED OWL (Ciccaba virgata) [*]
BLACK-AND-WHITE OWL (Ciccaba nigrolineata) – Awesome experience with this species from the Tranquilo Bay tower. Man, that voice and those red eyes!
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis) – Along the entrance road to Mount Totumas.
DUSKY NIGHTJAR (Antrostomus saturatus) – We studied one on the ground before it eventually flew off. The size and dark plumage were good field marks; unfortunately, it never did call. [E]
Apodidae (Swifts)
BLACK SWIFT (Cypseloides niger) – One from the Tranquilo Bay tower.
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)
VAUX'S SWIFT (Chaetura vauxi) – Several aerial flocks at Mount Totumas.
LESSER SWALLOW-TAILED SWIFT (Panyptila cayennensis) – Good numbers (at least 15!) were seen from the Traquilo Bay tower on our first evening.
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
BRONZY HERMIT (Glaucis aeneus) – One was visiting the Cabin 1 flowers at Tranquilo Bay.
GREEN HERMIT (Phaethornis guy) – Seen along the entrance road to Mount Totumas.
STRIPE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis striigularis)

A male Collared Trogon photographed on the Fortuna Road by participant Chris Wood.

LESSER VIOLETEAR (Colibri cyanotus) – Common at the MTCFR feeders; formerly, Green Violetear.
PURPLE-CROWNED FAIRY (Heliothryx barroti) – Nice seeing this species at MTCFR. The flash of white from the tail and underparts is striking.
MAGNIFICENT HUMMINGBIRD (Eugenes fulgens) – This is now Talamanca Hummingbird (Eugenes spectabilis), a split from Magnificent. Endemic to the Chiriqui Highlands. [E]
LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris) – One was at the Totumas feeders.
FIERY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Panterpe insignis) – A lovely hummingbird that we thankfully saw very well at MTCFR. It was a regular visitor to the hummingbird feeders and Dan's laptop.
PURPLE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis calolaemus) – One was guarding his flower patch at our picnic lunch spot near the Continental Divide.
WHITE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis castaneoventris) – Seen well at MTCFR. A visitor to the hummingbird feeders. [E]
MAGENTA-THROATED WOODSTAR (Calliphlox bryantae) – A real treat was seeing this small hummingbird at the Totumas feeders. [E]
SCINTILLANT HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus scintilla) – This species was fairly common at Mount Totumas. [E]
VIOLET SABREWING (Campylopterus hemileucurus)
CROWNED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania colombica)
WHITE-TAILED EMERALD (Elvira chionura) – A very good bird to see multiple times. We had our first at our picnic spot near the reservoir, but it was seen again better along the entrance road to Mount Totumas. [E]
BLUE-CHESTED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia amabilis) – Good numbers were seen at Tranquilo Bay.
SNOWY-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia edward niveoventer) – Fairly common at the Totumas feeders.
Trogonidae (Trogons)
RESPLENDENT QUETZAL (Pharomachrus mocinno) [*]
SLATY-TAILED TROGON (Trogon massena) – Nice looks at one along the Fortuna Road.
GARTERED TROGON (Trogon caligatus) – A female was seen on the Fortuna road.
COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris) – Nice looks at a male on the Quetzal Trail, Mount Totumas.
Momotidae (Motmots)
LESSON'S MOTMOT (Momotus lessonii lessonii) – Briefly seen along the entrance road to MTCFS.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata) – Common around Isla Bastimento.
BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon) – A wintering bird to Panama. Once was seen on our boat trip to Puerta Robalo.
Capitonidae (New World Barbets)
RED-HEADED BARBET (Eubucco bourcierii) – Single females were seen on the Fortuna Road and again at Mount Totumas near Santa Catalina.
Semnornithidae (Toucan-Barbets)
PRONG-BILLED BARBET (Semnornis frantzii) – One was seen briefly in flight. Heard by all. [E]
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
EMERALD TOUCANET (BLUE-THROATED) (Aulacorhynchus prasinus caeruleogularis) – A pair were in the fruiting tree above the lodge at Mount Totumas. The same one visited by the silky-flycatchers! This blue-throated form is endemic to the Chiriqui Highlands. [E]
COLLARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus torquatus)
YELLOW-THROATED TOUCAN (CHESTNUT-MANDIBLED) (Ramphastos ambiguus swainsonii) [*]
KEEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos sulfuratus) – Always fun to see. Several were in the Fortuna area. A flying banana.

Collared Redstart is a Chiriqui Highland endemic that we saw super well in La Amistad NP. Photo by participant Chris Wood.

Picidae (Woodpeckers)
OLIVACEOUS PICULET (Picumnus olivaceus flavotinctus) – Seen along the entrance road to Mount Totumas.
ACORN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes formicivorus) – Fairly common at MTCFR.
BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes pucherani) – Seen on the Caribbean side.
SMOKY-BROWN WOODPECKER (Picoides fumigatus)
HAIRY WOODPECKER (Picoides villosus) [*]
GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus)
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
BARRED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur ruficollis) [*]
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara cheriway)
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima) – Recently expanded into the Bocas area.
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus) – This species is common at Tranquilo Bay and good looks were had from the tower.
RED-LORED PARROT (Amazona autumnalis) – Awesome eye-level fly bys from the tower at Tranquilo Bay. Nice comparisons with Mealy.
MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa)
SULPHUR-WINGED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura hoffmanni) – Our first were on the Caribbean side of Fortuna where they are less common, but we had them easily at Mount Totumas. [E]
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major) [*]
BLACK-CROWNED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus atrinucha) – Good looks on the grounds at Tranquilo Bay.
PACIFIC ANTWREN (Myrmotherula pacifica) – Heard well and only glimpsed at Green Acres. The rain ruined us...
WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris) – The two species of antwrens on Isla Bastimento are this one and Dot-winged. We saw them both in several mixed-species flocks.
SLATY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula schisticolor) – At Mount Totumas. This species replaces White-flanked at higher elevations.
DOT-WINGED ANTWREN (Microrhopias quixensis)
CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Poliocrania exsul) – Common at Tranquilo Bay. The only antbird on the island.
DULL-MANTLED ANTBIRD (Sipia laemosticta)
BICOLORED ANTBIRD (Gymnopithys bicolor) – This was a surprise at Santa Catalina. A bit of a range extension. Excellent looks.

This image of a Boat-billed Flycatcher by participant Chris Wood shows nicely the arched and heavy bill that distinguishes this species easily from Great Kiskadee. (They are vocally very different, too!)

Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos)
SILVERY-FRONTED TAPACULO (Scytalopus argentifrons) – Heard by all, seen by just a few. Typical tapaculo behavior and experience! [E]
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus) – By far the most common woodcreeper in the foothills of Fortuna. Seen more than a few times.
SPOTTED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius) – One was in a large mixed-species flock on the Caribbean side of Fortuna.
STREAK-HEADED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes souleyetii) – Singles around Bocas on a couple of days.
SPOT-CROWNED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes affinis) – The highland replacement of the previous species; seen well at MTCFR.
PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus)
SCALY-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Anabacerthia variegaticeps) [*]
LINEATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla subalaris) – Seen well on our long walk up into La Amistad NP.
STREAK-BREASTED TREEHUNTER (Thripadectes rufobrunneus) [*]
BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus ochrolaemus) [*]
SPOTTED BARBTAIL (Premnoplex brunnescens) – Several in the forest at Mount Totuma were a nice find.
RED-FACED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca erythrops) – Seen along the entrance road to Mount Totumas and again at La Amistad.
SLATY SPINETAIL (Synallaxis brachyura) – We had a skulky pair along the entrance road to Puerta Robalo.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
BROWN-CAPPED TYRANNULET (Ornithion brunneicapillus) [*]
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)
MOUNTAIN ELAENIA (Elaenia frantzii)
TORRENT TYRANNULET (Serpophaga cinerea) – Found one in the river along the entrance road to MTCFR. [N]
OLIVE-STRIPED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes olivaceus)
SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon superciliaris) – Several along Fortuna and again at Mount Totumas.
ROUGH-LEGGED TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias burmeisteri) – One was seen well at our road side stop on the Pacific side of the Fortuna Road.
PALTRY TYRANNULET (Zimmerius vilissimus)
SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus pileatus) – One seen well on the Fortuna Road just after passing the divide. Often a difficult species to see well.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)
EYE-RINGED FLATBILL (Rhynchocyclus brevirostris) – This was nice to see so well along the Quetzal Trail at Mount Totumas.
TUFTED FLYCATCHER (Mitrephanes phaeocercus) – Singles in the forest at Mount Totumas.
OLIVE-SIDED FLYCATCHER (Contopus cooperi) – One along the entrance road at Mount Totumas.
DARK PEWEE (Contopus lugubris) – Seen a couple of times at Mount Totumas. A Chiriqui Highland endemic. [E]
YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flaviventris) [*]
ACADIAN FLYCATCHER (Empidonax virescens) [*]

Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher was seen well at a fruiting tree above Mount Totumas. A beautiful Chiriqui Highland endemic. Photo by guide Jesse Fagan.

YELLOWISH FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flavescens) – Good looks in the forest at Mount Totumas.
BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans)
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus) [*]
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer)
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua) – Common on both slopes.
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis)
GOLDEN-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes hemichrysus) – Like the only bird seen in the fog at the divide. Another Chiriqui Highland endemic. [E]
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Pipridae (Manakins)
WHITE-RUFFED MANAKIN (Corapipo altera) – One was at our rest stop above Willie Mazou.
GOLDEN-COLLARED MANAKIN (Manacus vitellinus) – A Western Panama specialist on the Caribbean side. Seen super well at Tranquilo Bay.
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
BLACK-CROWNED TITYRA (Tityra inquisitor) – Good numbers from the tower at Tranquilo Bay.
MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata) – Just one female at Tranquilo Bay.
BARRED BECARD (Pachyramphus versicolor) [*]
CINNAMON BECARD (Pachyramphus cinnamomeus) – At least three individuals were in the large mixed-species flock we encountered near the divide.
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) [*]
LESSER GREENLET (Pachysylvia decurtata)

Rain and wind slowed us down at Tranquilo Bay during the "Storm of the Century".  However, we made do with rum punches and an acoustic guitar! Video by guide Jesse Fagan.
YELLOW-THROATED VIREO (Vireo flavifrons) – Good numbers wintering in Western Panama.
YELLOW-WINGED VIREO (Vireo carmioli) – Several were in the taller forest of La Amistad NP.
PHILADELPHIA VIREO (Vireo philadelphicus) – Wintering in good numbers in the Bocas and Chiriqui foothills.
BROWN-CAPPED VIREO (Vireo leucophrys) – Common at Mount Totumas.
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
BROWN JAY (Psilorhinus morio)
BLACK-CHESTED JAY (Cyanocorax affinis) – These were seen at Green Acres Cacoa Farm.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca) – Nesting under the roof of Mount Totumas lodge.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
TREE SWALLOW (Tachycineta bicolor) – This was a good year for Tree Swallows in Panama. Good numbers were seen over the tower at Tranquilo Bay.
MANGROVE SWALLOW (Tachycineta albilinea)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
NIGHTINGALE WREN (Microcerculus philomela) – Seen briefly at Willy Mazoos on the Forunta Road.
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon)
OCHRACEOUS WREN (Troglodytes ochraceus) – Several of these arboreal wrens were in the forest at Mount Totumas; however, our look in the fog at the divide was incredible.
STRIPE-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus thoracicus)
ISTHMIAN WREN (Cantorchilus elutus) [*]
BAY WREN (Cantorchilus nigricapillus) – Very nice looks behind the cabins at Tranquilo Bay.
WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucosticta) [*]
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys) – Common at Mount Totumas (at least by voice).
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus) – A pair were in the forest at Tranquilo Bay.
TROPICAL GNATCATCHER (Polioptila plumbea) – Common on the island of Bastimento and along Fortuna Road. Prefers to stick to the canopy.
Cinclidae (Dippers)
AMERICAN DIPPER (Cinclus mexicanus) – One along the river below Mount Totumas. This is their southern most distribution.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
BLACK-FACED SOLITAIRE (Myadestes melanops) – This lovely songster was seen a few times at Mount Totumas. One was also seen on the Caribbean side on the Fortuna Road, where rare.
ORANGE-BILLED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus aurantiirostris) [*]
RUDDY-CAPPED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus frantzii) – This highland Catharus was seen at Mount Totumas, though heard more often than seen.
SWAINSON'S THRUSH (Catharus ustulatus) – One in La Amistad NP was rare in the winter.
MOUNTAIN THRUSH (Turdus plebejus) – Pretty common at Mount Totumas.

Hoffman's Two-toed Sloth chillin' out (trying to stay dry!) near our cabins at Tranquilo Bay. Photo by guide Jesse Fagan.

Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
GRAY CATBIRD (Dumetella carolinensis)
Ptiliogonatidae (Silky-flycatchers)
BLACK-AND-YELLOW SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Phainoptila melanoxantha) – It was a real treat seeing both silky-flycatchers at a fruiting tree above Mount Totumas. Both are Chiriqui endemics, so great birds to find and see so well!
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia motacilla) [*]
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis)
GOLDEN-WINGED WARBLER (Vermivora chrysoptera) – A male and female were along the entrance road at MTCFR.
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia) – Seen most days on both slopes.
PROTHONOTARY WARBLER (Protonotaria citrea) – Nice to see this species so common as a wintering bird in Western Panama b/c they are sure soft on the eyes!
FLAME-THROATED WARBLER (Oreothlypis gutturalis) – A good bird to see at MTCFR. Chiriqui Highland endemic.
TENNESSEE WARBLER (Oreothlypis peregrina)
MOURNING WARBLER (Geothlypis philadelphia)
OLIVE-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis semiflava) – A pair were seen along the entrance road to Punta Robalo.
AMERICAN REDSTART (Setophaga ruticilla)
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi) – Seen on both slopes.
BAY-BREASTED WARBLER (Setophaga castanea) – One was seen at Tranquilo Bay.
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER (Setophaga fusca) – Small numbers seen in Chiriqui along the entrance road to MTCFR.
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
CHESTNUT-SIDED WARBLER (Setophaga pensylvanica) – One of the most common wintering warblers at Bocas and along the Fortuna Road.
BLACK-THROATED GREEN WARBLER (Setophaga virens) – Small numbers at MTCFR.
RUFOUS-CAPPED WARBLER (Basileuterus rufifrons) – Just one at Mount Totumas.
BLACK-CHEEKED WARBLER (Basileuterus melanogenys) – Seen well in the highlands around Mount Totumas. A Chiriqui highland endemic. [E]

A male White-throated Mountaingem captured nicely by participant Mark Schocken.

GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (Basileuterus culicivorus) – Common in the forest at MTCFR.
THREE-STRIPED WARBLER (Basileuterus tristriatus) – Now an endemic to Costa Rica and Panama, called Costa Rican Warbler (B. melanotis).
BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis fulvicauda)
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla) [*]
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus) – Common at MTCFR.
COLLARED REDSTART (Myioborus torquatus) – Always a treat to find. This Chiriqui highland endemic was seen a few times at MTCFR.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
TAWNY-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus delatrii) – Good numbers in several flocks at Tranquilo Bay.
WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus)
PASSERINI'S TANAGER (Ramphocelus passerinii) – This species is common on the Caribbean side. Cherrie's replaces it on the Pacific side. The real differences are in the plumage of the female.
CHERRIE'S TANAGER (Ramphocelus costaricensis)
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)
SPECKLED TANAGER (Tangara guttata) – Good numbers in most mixed-species flocks along the Fortuna Road.
PLAIN-COLORED TANAGER (Tangara inornata)

Puma evidence was very obvious during our hike into La Amistad NP. Photo by guide Jesse Fagan.

BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola) – Common on the Fortuna Road and again on the Chiriqui side.
EMERALD TANAGER (Tangara florida) – Always a treat to see. Common in mixed-species flocks on the Fortuna Road.
SILVER-THROATED TANAGER (Tangara icterocephala) – Common on Fortuna and Chiriqui side.
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana)
SHINING HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes lucidus) – Similar to the previous species, but those yellow legs really stand out!
BLACK-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Chrysothlypis chrysomelas) – A pair were seen on our final day of birding the Fortuna Road. Endemic to the Chirqui Highlands. [E]
SLATY FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa plumbea) – A regular to the flowers around the lodge at Mount Totumas.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)
THICK-BILLED SEED-FINCH (Sporophila funerea)
VARIABLE SEEDEATER (Sporophila corvina)
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)
DUSKY-FACED TANAGER (Mitrospingus cassinii) – Always good to see. Several roaming flocks were found along the Fortuna Road.
STREAKED SALTATOR (Saltator striatipectus)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (Chlorospingus flavopectus) – These were common in the forest at MTCFR.
BLACK-STRIPED SPARROW (Arremonops conirostris) – Singles were seen along the Fortuna Road.
ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon aurantiirostris) [*]
CHESTNUT-CAPPED BRUSHFINCH (Arremon brunneinucha) [*]
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis) – We popped roofies every day at MTCFR.
YELLOW-THIGHED FINCH (Pselliophorus tibialis) – We found this species on our long hike into La Amistad NP. [E]
WHITE-NAPED BRUSHFINCH (YELLOW-THROATED) (Atlapetes albinucha brunnescens) – Usually around the lodge in the scrubby vegetation.
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
SUMMER TANAGER (Piranga rubra) – Seen most days; both slopes.
FLAME-COLORED TANAGER (Piranga bidentata) – This was common in the highlands around Mount Totumas.
WHITE-WINGED TANAGER (Piranga leucoptera) – Along the entrance road to Mount Totumas.
RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGER (Habia fuscicauda) – Seen well in the forest behind Tranquilo Bay.
BLACK-FACED GROSBEAK (Caryothraustes poliogaster) – A large flock of 25 individuals was seen along the Fortuna Road.
ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus ludovicianus)
BLUE-BLACK GROSBEAK (Cyanocompsa cyanoides)
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus)
BALTIMORE ORIOLE (Icterus galbula)
MONTEZUMA OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius montezuma) – Seen everyday on the Bocas side.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
YELLOW-CROWNED EUPHONIA (Euphonia luteicapilla) [*]
YELLOW-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia hirundinacea) – An immature male was visiting the feeders at Mount Totumas. Rare in Panama.
WHITE-VENTED EUPHONIA (Euphonia minuta) – Seen well from the tower at Tranquilo Bay.
GOLDEN-BROWED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia callophrys) – Several females were feeding in a large fruiting fig tree along the entrance road to MTCFR.

Linda Schocken captured this lovely image of a stormy sunset at Mount Totumas Cloud Forest Reserve.

LESSER GOLDFINCH (Spinus psaltria)

MANTLED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta palliata)
HOFFMANN'S TWO-TOED SLOTH (Choloepus hoffmanni)
RED-TAILED SQUIRREL (Sciurus granatensis)
WESTERN PYGMY SQUIRREL (Microsciurus mimulus)
BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN (Tursiops truncatus)
CRAB-EATING RACCOON (Procyon cancrivorus)
LONG-TAILED WEASEL (Mustela frenata)


Despite the weather, we also managed to see a number of cool critters.

1) Strawberry Poison-Dart Frog (Oophaga pumilio) = Seen on the island of Bastimento where they are all orange. According to Ramone, each island on the archipelago has a different color morph.

2) Talamanca Rocket Frog (Allobates talamancae) = Seen at several spots around Bocas del Toro. Also, a common frog sound in the forest.

3) Green-and-black Poison-Dart Frog (Dendrobates auratus) = Common in the leaf litter at Green Acres Cacoa Farm.

4) Bighead Anole (Anolis capito) = AKA "Pug-nosed Anole" Seen along the forest trail behind Tranquilo Bay.

5) Dryad Snake (Mastigodryas melanolomus) = The snake that Jay found at Tranquilo Bay with the pretty colored salmon underparts.

6) South American Milksnake (Lampropeltis micropholis) = The false coral snake that we found along the trail at Mount Totumas.

7) Short-tailed Singing Mouse (Scotinomys teguina) = Seen feeding below the platform feeder at Mount Totumas.

Totals for the tour: 258 bird taxa and 9 mammal taxa