A Field Guides Birding Tours Report

Panama's Canopy Lodge: El Valle de Anton 2023

December 29, 2023-January 5, 2024 with Megan Edwards Crewe & Tino Sanchez guiding

What a great way to welcome in the new year -- a week's birding in the varied habitats of Panama's western foothills, based at the lovely, comfortable Canopy Lodge. The excellent food and celebratory wine and champagne were definite bonuses, as was the care, knowledge and attention of Tino, our local guide extraordinaire. There wasn't a bird or butterfly he couldn't put a name to!

For such a short tour, we sure racked up a lot of highlights. Top of the list had to be our five species of owls: a trio of big Spectacled Owls (two of them fluffy-headed youngsters), a soggy Mottled Owl, a wide-eyed Black-and-white Owl (being harassed by a very agitated Green Shrike-Vireo), a tooting Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (with its own halo of frantic little birds) and a fierce-looking Tropical Screech-Owl right outside our rooms -- and all but the last seen in broad daylight! But there were plenty of other candidates for "top birds of the trip". Our 19 species of hummingbirds included a stunning male Rufous-crested Coquette, several tiny but knockout Snowcaps (both male and female), multiple Snowy-bellied Hummingbirds, a wire-sitting Veraguan Mango (one of the country's true endemics) and an outlandish White-tipped Sicklebill clinging to a Heliconia flower as it probed for nectar. We had a number of technicolor tanagers: two dozen Tawny-crested Tanagers cartwheeled through berrying trees at Las Minas, Golden-hooded Tanagers dazzled and Crimson-backed, Flame-rumped and Silver-throated all gathered "top bird" nominations. Our four motmot species included a Tody Motmot, which twitched its tiny tail as it sat in a shadowy bamboo stand. A Black Guan sat stock-still in a foggy fruiting tree, with only its red eyes blinking. Then there was the fabulously stripey male Barred Antshrike at the entrance to Finca Candelario, the Dull-mantled Antbird that crept up to check out Tino's speaker, the Black-faced Antthrush that paraded past on the forest floor like a tiny bantam chicken, the Aplomado Falcon nibbling its lizard on a telephone wire, the Bare-throated Tiger-Heron side-stepping its way up a tree branch near the coast and the Black-spotted Barbets that made regular visits to the Lodge's fruit feeder. All in all, we had plenty to look at!

Thanks so much to all of you for joining in for some adventures over the holidays. Your camaraderie made this one a lot of fun to lead! Here's wishing you some great birding in 2024 and beyond, and hoping we'll meet in the field again soon.

—Megan

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant


Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)

BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)

A handful of wary birds in a clump tall reeds along the back edge of the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron. We also spotted one in flight, where its bold white wing stripe was eye-catching.

BLUE-WINGED TEAL (Spatula discors)

Dozens snoozed on the back edge of the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, occasionally lifting a head to preen or look around. One male was starting to show signs of his breeding plumage, with a bold white crescent on his otherwise brown face.

Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)

GRAY-HEADED CHACHALACA (Ortalis cinereiceps)

Very common on the grounds of Canopy Lodge, where dozens swarmed over the feeders each evening, gobbling up anything that remained at the end of the day.

BLACK GUAN (Chamaepetes unicolor)

One lurked in a dense patch of foliage in a fruiting tree near the entrance to Valle Bonito, a shadowy figure on a drizzly morning. Through the scopes, we could just see the red of its eye and the pale blue of its facial skin.

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]

Regular in the larger cities and towns we passed through on our way to and from the lodge.

PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)

A few around the Radisson hotel on the morning we left Panama City, but our best views came at La Hincada on our final morning, when we found some perched up in treetops not far from where we spotted our pygmy-owl. This is a fairly common resident in the lowlands, particularly near water.

PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND DOVE (Columbina minuta elaeodes)

One, looking incredibly tiny, sat on a telephone wire not far from where we had stopped to bird along the Playa Juan Hombron road. It made even the nearby Ruddy Ground-Doves look big!

RUDDY GROUND DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)

Small numbers on scattered days, typically foraging along the roadsides -- or flushing off those roadsides as we drove past.

BLUE GROUND DOVE (Claravis pretiosa)

A male foraged in the middle of a dusty road near Playa Juan Hombron, dwarfed by a nearby Mourning Dove. Later, we heard him (or another) singing his distinctive, repetitive "boop" call.

WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)

Another species regularly seen flushing from roadsides -- making their white tail tips nicely visible. These plump doves typically forage on the ground, and we saw a few of them waddling around in the undergrowth (and occasionally on the lawns) at the lodge.

MOURNING DOVE (Zenaida macroura)

Small numbers along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, where their long, pointed tails made them instantly recognizable. This is a resident species in Panama.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos)

GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major)

Two of these big, pale-eyed anis in a treed area near the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron. At one point, one of the birds splayed itself out on a brush pile in the sun, showing nicely the lovely blue iridescence of its feathers. This is an uncommon to rare and local resident of Panama's lowlands.

SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)

Including a number trundling around in grassy pastures near La Mesa (where we got great looks at their high, arched culmens) and others drying themselves -- spreadeagled -- atop a column of vines at Finca Candelario.

GROOVE-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga sulcirostris)

Common along the road down to Playa Juan Hombron with a handful of others near La Hincada.

SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)

Regular in small numbers on most days of the tour, including one in Metro Park and another bounding through the trees in Valle Bonito. We heard its piping calls and wolf whistles on several days.

Apodidae (Swifts)

BAND-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura spinicaudus)

Distant looks at four or five circling against a verdant hillside at Valle Bonito.

Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)

WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora)

A male returned again and again to the same perch over the stream at the Lodge one morning.

WHITE-TIPPED SICKLEBILL (Eutoxeres aquila)

Yahooooo! We'd almost given up on this highly sought-after species, after we'd watched for ages without success at a big Heliconia stand along Las Minas road. Then a random roadside stop at Altos del Maria produced the goods when Tino spotted one clinging to a nearby Heliconia flower -- distracting us completely from the mixed flock we'd been combing through. That curved beak is quite extraordinary!

RUFOUS-BREASTED HERMIT (Glaucis hirsutus)

One zipped past along the stream at Canopy Lodge, calling as it went.

GREEN HERMIT (Phaethornis guy)

Surprisingly, the only one we saw was one briefly visiting a flower at Valle Bonito.

STRIPE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis striigularis)

Particularly nice looks at one that made repeated visits to a stand of flowering heliconias near the chicken farm at Las Minas.

BROWN VIOLETEAR (Colibri delphinae)

After hearing a couple of lekking males calling near the entrance to Valle Bonito on our first visit to Altos del Maria, we finally located one of their singing perches on the second visit. The violet ears of this rather drab hummer can be tough to get much of a look at.

VERAGUAN MANGO (Anthracothorax veraguensis) [E]

Scope views looks at a male perched on a wire along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, with a few others seen later from the vehicle. This is largely a Panamanian endemic, though it just edges across the border into southwestern Costa Rica.

GREEN THORNTAIL (Discosura conversii)

A little female buzzed around the ends of some tree branches along the edge of the road at Altos del Maria, looking for all the world like a sizable insect. The white bar across her rump on an otherwise glittering, forest-green back is distinctive.

RUFOUS-CRESTED COQUETTE (Lophornis delattrei)

Splendid views of a male feeding in a verbena hedge along the road up to Canopy Adventure made standing in the rain worthwhile. What a hairdo!

LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris)

One above the trail down to the swimming hole at Canopy Lodge, seen by those who took our first afternoon's walk there.

VIOLET-HEADED HUMMINGBIRD (Klais guimeti)

One fed at the purple verbena hedge blooming near the entrance to Canopy Adventure, flashing its iridescent head as it visited each tiny flower in turn.

BRONZE-TAILED PLUMELETEER (Chalybura urochrysia)

One guarding a tree full of flowers near our picnic lunch spot at Altos del Maria showed nicely, with its distinctive red toes occasionally visible in the scopes.

WHITE-VENTED PLUMELETEER (Chalybura buffonii)

One hovering among the leaves of several mango trees near the entrance to the Metro Park seemed to be prospecting for potential nest sites.

CROWNED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania colombica)

Among the more common hummingbirds of the trip, seen on four days -- including a glittering male near the heliconia stand along Las Minas trail and others at Altos del Maria.

SNOWCAP (Microchera albocoronata)

Our first was a little female in the Gallicea section of Altos del Maria. We found several raspberry-sherbet males foraging in branches right over the road, not far from the entrance to Valle Bonito. This range-restricted species is found only from southern Honduras into western and central Panama.

SNOWY-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Saucerottia edward collata) [E]

Our first returned again and again to the same dead vine stem near the entrance to Canopy Adventure, and we saw another several times around the Lodge feeders. The rufous-tailed subspecies (collata) is endemic to Panama.

RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia tzacatl)

Also common and widespread, including one that "owned" (or tried to, anyway) the feeder near the Lodge's dining room.

SAPPHIRE-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Chrysuronia coeruleogularis coeruleogularis) [E]

A female gathered collected cobwebs from branches in a tree right beside the road to Playa Juan Hombron. The subspecies coeruleogularis is primarily a Panamanian endemic, found just across the border into extreme southwestern Costa Rica.

BLUE-CHESTED HUMMINGBIRD (Polyerata amabilis)

Best seen along the road between the Lodge and Canopy Adventure our first afternoon, when we found several feeding in roadside flowers.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

GRAY-COWLED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus)

A pair of these colorful rails paraded slowly along the edge of the stream in front of the lodge, coming almost level with the building before turning around and working their way back upstream. They were bolder later in the week, even appearing right under the lodge's fruit feeders. This was one of the species split from the former Gray-necked Wood-Rail.

PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica) [b]

A brownish youngster rummaged along the edge of an islet of trees in the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, flashing its white vent as it walked. The red base to its bill helps to distinguish this one from an immature Common Gallinule. This is a winter visitor to Panama.

Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)

BLACK-NECKED STILT (Himantopus mexicanus)

At least four strode around the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron on long, pink legs. This is primarily a winter visitor to Panama, though there is a small Panamanian breeding population west along the coast from where we were.

Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)

SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)

Very common in open areas throughout the tour, seen on all but one day. The dozens and dozens around the chicken sheds at La Mesa were particularly notable.

Jacanidae (Jacanas)

WATTLED JACANA (BLACK-BACKED) (Jacana jacana hypomelaena)

Dozens in the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, including a couple of big, stripey-faced youngsters with their parents. This is the only all-dark subspecies of this widespread (primarily) South American species.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)

WHIMBREL (HUDSONIAN) (Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus) [b]

A few foraged along the tideline on the sandy beach at Playa Juan Hombron. We even heard one give the piping calls that led to one of its folk names -- the Seven Whistler. This is a winter visitor to Panama.

SANDERLING (Calidris alba) [b]

A little group scuttled along the tideline at Playa Juan Hombron, chasing the waves. This is another winter visitor.

SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER (Limnodromus griseus) [b]

A group of at least 40 poked and prodded in the shallow water edging the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, not far from the loafing Blue-winged Teal.

SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) [b]

Rick D spotted one teetering around one of the fields at Finca Candelario, but the rest of us had to wait until we got to Playa Juan Hombron to catch up.

SOLITARY SANDPIPER (Tringa solitaria) [b]

A couple chased each other around at Playa Juan Hombron, not far from our first Wattled Jacanas.

GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca) [b]

A couple among the more plentiful Willets along the beach at Playa Juan Hombron.

WILLET (Tringa semipalmata) [b]

A dozen or so along the beach front at Playa Juan Hombron.

LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes) [b]

Several strode around the shallows of the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, or preened among the multitude of dowitchers.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)

LAUGHING GULL (Leucophaeus atricilla) [b]

A dozen or so scattered along the beachfront near Raul and Denise's beach house. These are winter visitors to Panama.

ROYAL TERN (Thalasseus maximus)

A single bird, its orange bill gleaming, among a small group of Sandwich Terns on the beach at Playa Juan Hombron.

SANDWICH TERN (CABOT'S) (Thalasseus sandvicensis acuflavidus) [b]

A dozen or so along the shore at Playa Juan Hombron, including a few resting on the sand. The birds found in Panama are winter visitors from further north.

Ciconiidae (Storks)

WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana)

Several seen at close range along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, all in flight. There are a few small breeding colonies in Panama, but many of the birds seen in winter are visitors from further north.

Fregatidae (Frigatebirds)

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens)

Dozens swirled over Raul and Denise's beach house while we enjoyed our picnic lunch there. They were undoubtedly attracted by the big containers of fish being hauled up the beach to the next door property by returning fisherman!

Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets)

BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY (Sula nebouxii)

One, looking ungainly and unwell, rolled in the surf just offshore from Raul and Denise's beach house. It eventually came ashore, only to be chased back into the sea by a pair of loose dogs. Let's hope that avian flu hasn't made it to Panama's shores.

Anhingidae (Anhingas)

ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga leucogaster)

A male flew past as we birded at our last stop along the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron.

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Nannopterum brasilianum)

One fished in the lake at Valle Bonito, seen as we enjoyed our picnic lunch in the shelter nearby. It eventually moved up to a nearby bridge railing to dry out. We saw others around the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron.

Pelecanidae (Pelicans)

BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis)

Dozens fished just offshore at Playa Juan Hombron and Santa Clara, either plunging into the sea from heights or just floating on the surface.

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)

BARE-THROATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma mexicanum)

An adult stepped slowly along a big tree limb at the edge of the lagoon in Playa Juan Hombron, showing its tiger-striped neck nicely as it went.

GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias) [b]

A few around the edges of the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, including two having a bit of a scrap. This is another winter visitor to Panama.

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)

A few scattered in roadside ponds and puddles as we drove towards the Lodge our first day, but the biggest number were around the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron.

SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)

One hunted the fringes of the little lake near the Valle Bonito social center, and a handful of others worked the edges of the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron.

LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)

A few -- a mix of adults and white youngsters -- at Playa Juan Hombron.

CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)

Dozens poked in the grasses of pastures near the chicken farms on La Mesa, accompanied by a gaggle of Smooth-billed Anis. Following a recent split, these are now considered to be Western Cattle Egrets.

GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens)

One stood stock-still in on a boulder in the middle of the stream at the Lodge, waiting for some tasty morsel to venture past.

Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)

WHITE IBIS (Eudocimus albus)

Several pairs along the edge of the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, including two in a tree not far from our tiger-heron. This is a fairly common breeding resident in Panama's Pacific lowlands (and along the Panama Canal).

GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)

A flock of 100 or so rose up from behind trees along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, swirled around a bit, then dropped down out of view. They did this a couple of times, so something was clearly disturbing them. This is an uncommon and local resident in Panama.

Cathartidae (New World Vultures)

BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)

Daily, often in sizable numbers.

TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)

Also daily, though in smaller numbers than the previous species.

LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus)

A few among the plentiful vultures over the road to Playa Juan Hombron. The one near the rice packing plant was particularly cooperative, making several circles low overhead as it worked its way along the road.

Pandionidae (Osprey)

OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) [b]

A few over the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron. This is a winter visitor to Panama.

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)

WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)

Lovely looks at this graceful raptor -- both perched and in flight -- along the road to Playa Juan Hombron.

HOOK-BILLED KITE (Chondrohierax uncinatus)

A female soared over the road as we walked up to Canopy Adventure our first afternoon -- definitely unexpected.

BLACK HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus tyrannus)

One soared overhead -- conveniently close to a Turkey Vulture for good comparison -- as we walked up the road towards Canopy Adventure.

ORNATE HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus ornatus) [*]

Arg! We heard the distant but distinctive calls of this big tropical raptor while we birded after lunch on our first visit to Altos del Maria, but there were just a few too many trees in the way.

NORTHERN HARRIER (Circus hudsonius) [b]

One coursed low over a field along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, showing its white rump patch nicely as it wheeled back and forth. This too is a winter visitor to Panama.

SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis)

Our best looks came along the Pan American Highway on our last morning, when we found one perched on a roadside wire not long after leaving Anton. We saw a couple of others in flight over the road down to Playa Juan Hombron, showing the lovely rusty color of their underwings.

ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)

A couple flapped low over the road to Playa Juan Hombron, seen as we watched the Aplomado Falcon demolish its lizard.

WHITE HAWK (Pseudastur albicollis)

Larry and Donna watched one circle over the lake at the Valle Bonito social center while waiting for the rest of us to return from our walk on the nature trail there.

GRAY-LINED HAWK (Buteo nitidus blakei)

A youngster sat atop a leafless tree in the Gallicea section of Altos del Maria, peering around. Its mostly pale face (with just a single bold eye stripe) separates it from wintering youngsters of the next species.

BROAD-WINGED HAWK (Buteo platypterus) [b]

Scattered birds at Altos del Maria, Valle Bonito (where we found a couple of perched adults -- or the same bird twice) and Las Mozas. This is another winter visitor from further north.

SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus)

One soared over Canopy Lodge, seen by some of those who stayed behind on the first day some of us went to Altos del Maria.

ZONE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albonotatus)

One circled with the Turkey Vultures over the road down to Playa Juan Hombron, showing its remarkable similarity -- the better to lurk among its harmless neighbors to spring surprise attacks on unsuspecting prey!

Strigidae (Owls)

TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba luctisonus)

After hearing the trilling calls of one from the darkened hillside behind our rooms early one morning, we tried calling it in the next evening -- with great success. It dropped down onto a nicely illuminated branch right in the open and called back softly.

SPECTACLED OWL (Pulsatrix perspicillata)

It's clearly the time of year for recently fledged youngsters! We found our first, still bearing a headband of fluffy white down feathers, in a big tree not far from one of its parents at Las Mozas. The second, sporting even more white head feathers, flushed across the road at Valle Bonito, then perched where we could get great looks at it in the scopes.

FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (FERRUGINOUS) (Glaucidium brasilianum ridgwayi)

One tooted from a roadside tree near La Hincada, attracting a nervous halo of fired-up hummingbirds. The widespread subspecies ridgwayi is found from the Canal Zone right up into south Texas.

MOTTLED OWL (Strix virgata)

One soggy bird at Canopy Adventure looked quite skinny -- drawn up and alert as it peered down at us from its perch in a shadowy bamboo stand.

BLACK-AND-WHITE OWL (Strix nigrolineata)

A wide-awake bird stared down at us from its roost spot above the main trail at the Metro Park -- when it wasn't shaking its head violently at the very agitated Green Shrike-Vireo that was noisily protesting its presence, that is!

Trogonidae (Trogons)

BLACK-THROATED TROGON (Trogon rufus)

A pair, in the same tree as our Black-and-white Owl. The male sat for a long time in the open on a horizontal branch, while the female proved somewhat more elusive, flitting around in vine tangles further off the trail. This species has now been split; the birds we saw are now Northern Black-throated Trogons (Trogon tenellus, called Graceful Trogon by the South American Checklist Committee).

COLLARED TROGON (ORANGE-BELLIED) (Trogon collaris aurantiiventris)

Seen at the higher elevations of Altos del Maria, including a pair snatching fruits from a tree while we enjoyed our "second breakfast" (like hobbits!) in the Gallicea area.

Momotidae (Motmots)

TODY MOTMOT (Hylomanes momotula)

One of these tiny motmots suddenly appeared in the understory below the Mottled Owl at Canopy Adventure and sat for long minutes in the shadows, twitching its tiny tail. This is a rare and local species in Panama. The subspecies here (obscurus) is more olive above and browner below than birds found in northern Central America.

LESSON'S MOTMOT (Momotus lessonii lessonii)

One at Cara Iguana played hard to get, calling from a dense stand of trees for quite a while before we finally spotted it sitting low on an open branch down the hill. This is one of the "new" species that resulted from the split of the former Blue-crowned Motmot.

RUFOUS MOTMOT (Baryphthengus martii)

A pair on the grounds of the Canopy Lodge and another along the track to Las Minas, but our best views came shortly after we arrived at Canopy Adventure, when we found a showy pair right near the first bridge. This is the largest of Panama's motmots.

BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum)

Lovely views of one, holding some wriggly prey, along the road up to Canopy Adventure our first afternoon, with others at Finca Candelario. The blue on the chin of this one (quite a tiny patch, but visible in the scopes) helps to separate it from the larger (but similarly-plumaged) Rufous Motmot.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)

A male hunted along the stream at Canopy Lodge on several days, and we spotted another perched along the fringes of the lake near the Valle Bonito social center.

Capitonidae (New World Barbets)

SPOT-CROWNED BARBET (Capito maculicoronatus maculicoronatus) [E]

Fine views of a couple visiting the fruit feeder at Canopy Lodge -- for those who happened to be in the right place at the right time! Rick W. watched a pair excavating a nest hole in a dead tree near some of the rooms; unfortunately, they seemed to have abandoned their efforts by the time the rest of us returned from the field.

Ramphastidae (Toucans)

NORTHERN EMERALD-TOUCANET (BLUE-THROATED) (Aulacorhynchus prasinus caeruleogularis)

Two near some palm fruits on the side of the road as we made our way to Altos del Maria sat tight in a foggy, leafless tree, giving us a good chance to study them from the vehicles.

COLLARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus torquatus)

A little gang of at least 10 bounced up through some roadside trees and then flew over our heads at Cara Iguana.

KEEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos sulfuratus)

Small numbers on scattered days, with our best views probably coming on our first afternoon's walk up to Canopy Adventure, when we found a pair in some trees up the hill. Their frog-like croaks were a regular part of the tour soundtrack.

Picidae (Woodpeckers)

BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes pucherani)

Two busily investigated a number of dead trunks along the edge of the little lake near the Valle Bonito's social center, part of a big mixed flock.

RED-CROWNED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes rubricapillus)

The most common and widespread of the tour's woodpeckers, seen on most days.

LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)

After catching our first few only in flight (and only briefly at that) we had superb views of a pair clinging to a telephone pole along the road to Playa Juan Hombron -- before things went all x-rated!

Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)

CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara plancus)

The best group look probably came along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, when one flapped its way along over a nearby field and across the road. Those in Tino's vehicle on our first visit to Altos del Maria also saw one on the drive there.

YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Daptrius chimachima)

Singles on several days, with our best views probably coming on our drive to Las Mozas, when we found an adult munching on something in a field near the road.

AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)

One perched on a roadside wire, seen shortly after we left the Altos del Maria on our first visit.

APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis)

One nibbling the remains of a lizard along the road to Playa Juan Hombron allowed us some great scope views -- and had attracted the close attention of a hopeful young Yellow-headed Caracara.

BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)

One perched high in a roadside tree on our way down from Altos del Maria capped a fine day.

Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)

ORANGE-CHINNED PARAKEET (Brotogeris jugularis)

Their screeching calls were heard nearly every day (typically as they were rocketing past over the trees somewhere), but we only saw the birds once -- sitting in a treetop along one of the roads at Altos del Maria.

BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus)

The most common of the tour's parrots, with particularly nice views of little groups perched high in leafless trees on each of our visits to Altos del Maria.

YELLOW-CROWNED PARROT (Amazona ochrocephala panamensis)

The noisy pair perched on the corner of the Radisson Hotel on the morning we headed inland probably gave us our best views. We saw a few pairs elsewhere in the lowlands, but always in flight. This species has declined significantly over parts of its range, no thanks to the caged bird trade.

BROWN-THROATED PARAKEET (VERAGUAS) (Eupsittula pertinax ocularis)

Very nice looks at a couple of pairs in La Hincada, including two that appeared to be excavating a nest cavity in a big arboreal termite mound.

Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)

FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE (Cymbilaimus lineatus)

A nicely barred female sat briefly in the open just above head height, part of the big mixed flock we found at the Metro Park.

BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus)

A male gave us some wonderful views as he churred away in a hedge near the entrance to Finca Candelario, his tail pumping with every note.

RUSSET ANTSHRIKE (Thamnistes anabatinus)

A single bird with a mixed flock along the forest trail at Finca Candelario.

PLAIN ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus mentalis)

We found one with a mixed flock at Finca Candelario, but our best views probably came just outside the entrance to Valle Bonito, where we found a busy pair foraging low in the understory just down the hill.

SPOT-CROWNED ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus puncticeps)

One in the same mixed flock as the previous species at Finca Candelario allowed some nice direct comparisons.

CHECKER-THROATED STIPPLETHROAT (Epinecrophylla fulviventris)

A pair of close, chattering (courting?) birds one some low branches along the trail at Finca Candelario gave us a great opportunity to study them at leisure.

DOT-WINGED ANTWREN (Microrhopias quixensis)

A pair swirled around the trail at the Metro Park, perching repeatedly in the open as they called and flicked through the branches.

DUSKY ANTBIRD (Cercomacroides tyrannina)

Some great looks at these plain little antbirds along the track at the Metro Park, including a couple of females (or young males) who came to investigate Tino's whistles.

WHITE-BELLIED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza longipes)

A couple of calling birds along the track at Las Mozas certainly made us work hard for a look! One by one, we finally spotted a handsome male through tiny gaps in the dense foliage as he sang from a series of low twigs.

CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Poliocrania exsul)

A whistling bird worked low along the trail at Finca Candelario, not far from the big army ant bivouac, and no doubt as hopeful as we were that the ants were on the march!

DULL-MANTLED ANTBIRD (Sipia laemosticta)

One crept up the hill towards Tino's speaker at Finca Candelario, eventually sitting just above it along the trail edge.

BICOLORED ANTBIRD (Gymnopithys bicolor bicolor)

A pair flicked in the understory of the forest at Finca Candelario, not far from where we found the big army ant bivouac. Their gruff, churring calls made it easy to follow their progress -- though it was considerably harder to actually lay eyes on them!

Conopophagidae (Gnateaters)

BLACK-CROWNED ANTPITTA (Pittasoma michleri michleri)

One slipped down the hill beside the nature trail at Valle Bonito, half seen in the shadowy undergrowth as it approached, darted across a gap or two and disappeared back up the hill. We certainly heard it (and one or two others at Finca Candelario) well though!

Formicariidae (Antthrushes)

BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH (Formicarius analis)

Our first encounter (at Finca Candelario) was pretty frustrating, but our second visit proved much more fruitful when we watch one parading along the forest floor, whistling loudly.

Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)

SCALY-THROATED LEAFTOSSER (Sclerurus guatemalensis) [*]

Two sang -- LOUDLY -- from the darkening floor of the forest at Finca Candelario as the sun went down, but we couldn't spot either one of them, unfortunately!

OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (GRAYISH) (Sittasomus griseicapillus sylvioides)

One of these small two-toned woodcreepers (gray at the front end, rusty at the back) crawled up a trunk at the Metro Park, part of the big mixed flock we found there.

PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)

The first woodcreeper of the trip, seen crawling up a trunk right beside the track at the Metro Park. We saw another, even closer, near the waterfall bridge at Canopy Adventure. This is an aptly-named species, with only the slightest hint of a dark eye line to relieve its plain brownness.

WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus)

A pair investigated several trunks along the path at Finca Candelario, and we spotted another with a mixed flock along the Altos del Maria road, not far from where we saw our White-tipped Sicklebill. This and the Olivaceous are Panama's smallest woodcreepers.

COCOA WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus susurrans)

Fine views of one at the Metro Park near where we spotted our first Plain-brown Woodcreeper; this one was a lot streakier! We heard another at La Hincada.

SPOTTED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius)

We saw our first along Las Minas road, where its bold pale eye ring was obvious as it crawled up a tree trunk near the track. We found others on each visit to Altos del Maria, typically with mixed flocks.

PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus)

One foraged high in the trees over the track at the Metro Park, clinging upside down from vines and leaf clusters like a chickadee might.

SPOTTED BARBTAIL (Premnoplex brunnescens)

Good views of single birds on each visit to Altos del Maria, including one that sang repeatedly from an open branch in the Gallicea neighborhood (near where we met the friendly hound dog).

RED-FACED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca erythrops)

One crawled along branches at the edge of an open area on Altos del Maria, part of the same mixed flock as the previous species. It spent a lot of time investigating clumps of moss and bromeliads.

Pipridae (Manakins)

LANCE-TAILED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia lanceolata)

Our best looks came just over the bridge at the lodge, where we found a couple of males (including a youngster with a red cap and black face, just starting to get some blue back feathers) trying to attract the attentions of a female.

WHITE-RUFFED MANAKIN (Corapipo altera)

A female feeding with the mixed tanager flock in Melastoma bushes at Las Minas probably gave us our best views. We found others on each visit to Altos del Maria, including one rummaging in some low shrubs not far from the young Spectacled Owl.

GOLDEN-COLLARED MANAKIN (Manacus vitellinus)

Wow! Lovely looks at this stunner, perched in the understory along the track at Las Minas.

Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)

MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata)

A male sat high in a couple of eucalyptus trees at Cara Iguana -- great spotting, Bev!

NORTHERN SCHIFFORNIS (NORTHERN) (Schiffornis veraepacis dumicola) [E]

Brief, but good views of a couple of these plain, dark birds in the understory along the path to Mirador Cerro Azul, at Altos del Maria. We certainly heard their distinctive "Hey Ricky" calls well! The subspecies dumicola is endemic to western Panama.

Oxyruncidae (Sharpbill, Royal Flycatcher, and Allies)

RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Terenotriccus erythrurus)

One of these unobtrusive little flycatchers called from the understory at the Metro Park, eventually seen nicely in the scopes.

Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)

OLIVE-STRIPED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes galbinus)

Our first was with a mixed flock in the fruiting Melastoma trees along the track to Las Minas, but our best views probably came near the entrance to Valle Bonito, where we found two in some berrying branches right over the road.

RUFOUS-BROWED TYRANNULET (Phylloscartes superciliaris)

Great views of these little charmers in the highlands of Altos del Maria and Valle Bonito. They certainly made us work for those views, though!

SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus pileatus)

A calling bird low along the track to Las Minas showed its black-speckled rusty crown nicely (if briefly). We had another at Valle Bonito, and heard more at Altos del Maria, along the trail up to Mirador Cerro Azul.

SOUTHERN BENTBILL (Oncostoma olivaceum)

One of these little flycatchers hunted beside the trail at the Metro Park, seen just before the big mixed flock appeared. We heard its soft call repeatedly the whole time we were being entertained by the flock.

COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)

We found our first along the road up to Canopy Adventure our first afternoon, then spotted another in the scrubby growth at Las Mozas.

YELLOW-WINGED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flavotectus)

One with a mixed flock on Altos del Maria, where the bright yellow edges of its wing feathers made it noticeable. This was formerly considered to be a subspecies of the Yellow-margined Flycatcher. As of late 2023, its new name is Yellow-winged Flatbill.

SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum) [*]

Tino pointed out the soft calls of this species to some while we birded along the trail to the Lodge's swimming hole our first afternoon.

NORTHERN MOUSE-COLORED TYRANNULET (Nesotriccus incomta eremonoma) [E]

One along the road to Playa Juan Hombron worked its way through the branches of the same dense bush as our Isthmian Wrens and Northern Scrub-Flycatcher

YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus)

We heard one calling -- a distinctive, whistled "Hey dear" -- just as we started our walk at the Metro Park, but the bird moved off before the group got a chance to see it.

FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii)

One near the start of our walk at the Metro Park.

YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)

After hearing one along the track at Las Minas, we connected with another at one of our roadside stops on the way to Altos del Maria, with more on the road to Playa Juan Hombron. This widespread species is found from Mexico right down to southern Brazil and northern Argentina.

MISTLETOE TYRANNULET (Zimmerius parvus)

Very common and widespread, seen and heard multiple times on most days. The yellow edges to its wing feathers are eye-catching.

TUFTED FLYCATCHER (COSTA RICAN) (Mitrephanes phaeocercus aurantiiventris)

Seen well multiple times at the tour's higher elevations (Altos del Maria and Valle Bonito), where they returned again and again to the same perches.

NORTHERN TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus bogotensis bogotensis)

One hunted along the end of the lake at Valle Bonito, part of a little flurry of flycatchers we found right at the end of our walk on the nature trail.

ACADIAN FLYCATCHER (Empidonax virescens) [b]

A few in the highlands of Atos del Maria, with our best looks coming at one near our lunch spot. This is another winter visiter to Panama.

NORTHERN SCRUB-FLYCATCHER (Sublegatus arenarum arenarum)

One along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, in the same tree as our cooperative Isthmian Wrens. These look a bit like tiny Myiarchus flycatchers.

LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus)

Two hunted from leafless stumps along the nature trail around the lake at Valle Bonito.

DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer)

We heard the mournful descending whistle of this widespread flycatcher at Finca Candelario on our second visit there, but didn't actually see one until we connected with another at Valle Bonito.

PANAMA FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus panamensis)

Single birds seen with mixed flocks at the Lodge, along the road up to Canopy Adventure and in the big mango trees at La Hincada. This species is found from southern Costa Rica south into Colombia and Venezuela, but the heart of its range is in Panama.

GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)

Regular throughout, often perched on roadside wires. The pair hunting with the Rusty-margined and Social flycatchers by the lake at Valle Bonito allowed some nice comparisons between the three species.

BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)

Two birds shouted challenges from a Cecropia tree at Cara Iguana, showing nicely their sizable beaks.

RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis)

A few around the fringes of the lake at Valle Bonito, part of a little "master class" in similar-looking species, with others along the road to Playa Juan Hombron. This is principally a South American species, though it edges as far north as southwestern Costa Rica.

SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis)

Daily, typically (as its name suggests) in small, noisy groups.

TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)

Abundant throughout, seen in good numbers every day of the tour.

FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus savana)

Scattered birds (mostly in flight) on the first and last days of the tour, with one distant, heat-hazed bird sitting on a low bush on the far side of the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron.

Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)

RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (NORTHERN) (Cyclarhis gujanensis perrygoi) [E]

It took some persistence -- and we were briefly distracted by a nearby Yellow-throated Vireo -- but we finally spotted one of these big, handsome vireos singing lustily from a big tree near the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron. The subspecies perrygoi is found only in west-central Panama.

GREEN SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius pulchellus)

Two along the trail at the Metro Park -- one singing its repetitive "chup-chup-chup" call in the distance while a second gathered nesting material (between bouts of scolding the nearby Black-and-white Owl). This can be a tough species to get a good look at, so we were lucky with how many times the nest-building bird returned and sat in the open.

LESSER GREENLET (Pachysylvia decurtata) [*]

Heard-only at the Metro Park and Finca Candelario.

GOLDEN-FRONTED GREENLET (Pachysylvia aurantiifrons aurantiifrons)

A little gang of half a dozen or so worked busily along branches over the track at the Metro Park. These little vireos are flock leaders.

YELLOW-THROATED VIREO (Vireo flavifrons) [b]

One of these winter visitors investigated the branches of a big tree near the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, not far from our singing peppershrike.

PHILADELPHIA VIREO (Vireo philadelphicus) [b]

Two with a mixed flock along the edge of the lake near the Valle Bonito social center. This is a winter visitor to Panama.

Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)

BLACK-CHESTED JAY (Cyanocorax affinis)

Best seen at Canopy Lodge, where a noisy little group swirled through the clearing around the dining room most mornings. We saw others at Finca Candelario and Mata Ahogado.

Hirundinidae (Swallows)

BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)

A group of nine circled over an intersection in La Zamia, seen as we made our way down from Altos del Maria on our second visit.

SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)

One at Mata Ahogado proved nicely cooperative, returning again and again to its same spot on a nearby utility wire. The buffy throat and pale rump help to separate this resident species from Northern Rough-winged Swallows, which are winter visitors to parts of Panama.

GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)

Good numbers seen on several days, typically lined up along roadside utility wires like beads on a string.

MANGROVE SWALLOW (Tachycineta albilinea)

A trio on the wires near the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron showed nicely in the scopes. In flight, their distinctive white rumps were easily seen.

Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)

LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus)

For most of the group, this one was heard only -- a soft rising trill, rather like somebody running their fingers up a comb. A few caught a brief glimpse of one as it flitted through branches over our heads at the Metro Park.

Troglodytidae (Wrens)

SCALY-BREASTED WREN (WHISTLING) (Microcerculus marginatus luscinia) [*]

We heard the clear, descending whistles of this secretive wren on several days -- at Finca Candelario and along the track at Las Minas.

HOUSE WREN (SOUTHERN) (Troglodytes aedon inquietus)

Regular around the Canopy Lodge grounds -- including actually IN the dining room on a couple of occasions -- with others at Mata Ahogado and along the road down to Playa Juan Hombron.

OCHRACEOUS WREN (Troglodytes ochraceus ligea) [E]

Seen well creeping around on moss-laden branches on both visits to the highlands -- at Altos del Maria and Valle Bonito. The subspecies ligea is endemic to western Panama.

RUFOUS-BREASTED WREN (Pheugopedius rutilus)

One low in the undergrowth along the trail at the Metro Park (in the same general area as our Dusky Antbirds) was among the first birds of the tour. As usual, we heard more of these than we actually saw.

RUFOUS-AND-WHITE WREN (Thryophilus rufalbus)

Duetting pairs at the Metro Park and Finca Candelario, with neither pair seen particularly well.

ISTHMIAN WREN (Cantorchilus elutus)

A pair low in the weeds along the track at Las Mozas were not particularly obliging, but a pair in shrubby growth along the Playa Juan Hombron road were far more cooperative, working their way up through open branches as they foraged and called to each other. This was one of the species split from the former Plain Wren complex; it's endemic to Panama and southwestern Costa Rica.

BAY WREN (Cantorchilus nigricapillus)

We heard their loud songs far more often than we actually laid eyes on the birds, but we did see several pairs well -- two foraging along the road up to Canopy Adventure our first afternoon and two rummaging through the ferns on the side of the stream at the Lodge.

WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucosticta)

We heard the loud, rollicking song of this widespread species on several days, but never saw the singers.

GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys)

This, the highland replacement for the previous species, was more cooperative, and was seen nicely at both Altos del Maria and Valle Bonito. The pair at our first stop on Altos del Maria were particularly confiding, working through roadside bushes almost at arm's length.

SONG WREN (Cyphorhinus phaeocephalus)

Two flicking low along the trail at Finca Candelario were a bit tough to see as the light faded in the forest, but Charlotte and I eventually had wonderful views when they flicked their way by only a few yards away after the rest of the group had retreated to the open fields.

Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)

TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (TROPICAL) (Mimus gilvus tolimensis) [I]

Reasonably common, usually in pairs -- including a few at Finca Candelario, two in the tree above our ground-feeding Variable Seedeaters at Mata Ahogado, and several along the road to Playa Juan Hombron. This species has been introduced to Panama from Colombia.

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)

PALE-VENTED THRUSH (Turdus obsoletus)

Seen on each visit to the highlands, with especially nice views of our first, sitting quietly on an open branch at the end of one of the dead-end roads in the Gallicea section of Altos del Maria.

WHITE-THROATED THRUSH (Turdus assimilis)

At least two (it was hard to count with all the to-ing and fro-ing that was going on) with the busy flock chomping berries in a tree not far from our second Spectacled Owl youngster at Valle Bonito.

CLAY-COLORED THRUSH (Turdus grayi)

Abundant and widespread, seen every day of the tour.

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]

A few in Anton, at the gas station we visited for a pit stop on our way to Playa Juan Hombron. This introduced species is widespread in urban and suburban areas across Panama.

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)

YELLOW-CROWNED EUPHONIA (Euphonia luteicapilla)

Some at Altos del Maria (including in the same area as our White-vented Euphonia) with others at Cara Iguana and along the road to Playa Juan Hombron. The combination of an extensive yellow crown and a dark throat distinguishes the male from all other euphonias in Panama.

WHITE-VENTED EUPHONIA (Euphonia minuta)

Two or three at Altos del Maria, including a male that perched up on a nearby treetop, conveniently allowing us to see his white vent.

THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA (Euphonia laniirostris)

A couple on the road up to Canopy Adventure our first afternoon, with others around the Lodge. The male's yellow throat distinguishes him from male Yellow-crowned and White-vented euphonias.

FULVOUS-VENTED EUPHONIA (Euphonia fulvicrissa)

A female near the big abandoned structure at the Metro Park showed the rusty vent for which the species is named.

TAWNY-CAPPED EUPHONIA (Euphonia anneae)

Seen very well in the fruiting Melastoma trees at Las Minas (part of that big mixed flock) with others at Altos del Maria and Valle Bonito, also with mixed flocks. The tawny, rather than yellow, crown of the male is unique among Panama's euphonias.

LESSER GOLDFINCH (Spinus psaltria)

A few heard tinkling along the track at Las Mozas while the birds themselves remained out of view.

Passerellidae (New World Sparrows)

COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (CENTRAL PANAMA) (Chlorospingus flavopectus punctulatus)

Common at Altos del Maria, where little flocks swarmed along mossy branches, poking and prodding for prey. The subspecies punctulatus is endemic to the Veraguas and Cocle provinces of Central Panama.

BLACK-STRIPED SPARROW (Arremonops conirostris) [*]

We heard one singing repeatedly from a citrus grove in Mata Ahogado, but couldn't entice it closer for a look.

ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon aurantiirostris)

Fine views of a pair of these handsome birds under the feeders or scurrying across the paved paths at the lodge on several mornings. It's amazing how bright those orange beaks are in the pre-dawn half light!

CHESTNUT-CAPPED BRUSHFINCH (Arremon brunneinucha)

A pair of these ground dwellers cooperated nicely at Finca Candelario, approaching within a few yards of the group along one of the forest paths.

Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)

EASTERN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella magna)

We heard several singing from distant pastures before we finally spotted one perched up in a small tree along a fence line on the road to Playa Juan Hombron. The subspecies found in Panama is subulata.

CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus)

A few along the road to Playa Juan Hombron.

CHESTNUT-HEADED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius wagleri)

Those who walked up to Canopy Adventure on our first afternoon spotted a few perched high in the trees up the hill along the way. We heard others calling near the entrance to Finca Candelario on our second visit there.

SCARLET-RUMPED CACIQUE (SCARLET-RUMPED) (Cacicus uropygialis microrhynchus) [*]

We heard several calling from beyond the trees as we started our walk at the Metro Park.

ORCHARD ORIOLE (Icterus spurius) [b]

One in some tall weeds along the road to Playa Juan Hombron, seen as we tried to find the singing Isthmian Wrens. This is a winter visitor to Panama.

YELLOW-BACKED ORIOLE (Icterus chrysater giraudii)

Two high in the canopy of some of the taller trees along the Mono Titi track at Panama City's Metro Park. They made us work hard for a look (somehow always seeming to land behind the densest bits of leaves) but we got there in the end!

SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)

A mix of shiny black males and brown females mingled with a half dozen Smooth-billed Anis in a pasture near the farm entrance across from Las Minas road. This brood parasite is a relatively recent arrival to western Panama.

GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus)

Abundant throughout, seen every day of the tour.

Parulidae (New World Warblers)

LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia motacilla) [b]

One foraged on rocks in the little stream that ran past the Lodge's dining room, or bobbed its way along the banks. The bold white eyebrow that flares behind the eye, the unstreaked throat, and its bicolored underparts (warmer on the flanks than the belly) help to separate this species from the next one.

NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis) [b]

One rummaged in the underbrush at the Metro Park, winking in and out of view. We heard another calling from the forest at Altos del Maria.

GOLDEN-WINGED WARBLER (Vermivora chrysoptera) [b]

A female with the big mixed flock at the Metro Park, and a couple of birds with another mixed flock along Las Minas trail.

BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia) [b]

Singles on many days, investigating trunks and branches.

TENNESSEE WARBLER (Leiothlypis peregrina) [b]

Small numbers, including a regular around the Lodge dining room most mornings and others at Las Mozas, Valle Bonito and Playa Juan Hombron.

MOURNING WARBLER (Geothlypis philadelphia) [b*]

We heard one calling from a nearby hedge at Finca Candelario, but couldn't entice it into view.

BAY-BREASTED WARBLER (Setophaga castanea) [b]

The most common of the tour's warblers, seen on all but one day, and often with more than one in a mixed flock. Like most of the warblers on this list, it's a winter visitor.

BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER (Setophaga fusca) [b]

A bright-throated male with the first mixed flock we encountered at Altos del Maria, with a somewhat drabber female elsewhere there. We had others at Valle Bonito.

YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)

A female in the same scruffy bushes where we finally laid eyes on our Isthmian Wrens.

CHESTNUT-SIDED WARBLER (Setophaga pensylvanica) [b]

One along the road up to Canopy Adventure our first afternoon.

YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (MYRTLE) (Setophaga coronata coronata) [b]

One foraging bird shared a bush near the lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron with a Tennessee Warbler.

BLACK-THROATED GREEN WARBLER (Setophaga virens) [b]

One with a mixed flock at Finca Candelario, and a couple of others with another mixed flock near the lake at Valle Bonito.

CHESTNUT-CAPPED WARBLER (Basileuterus delattrii mesochrysus)

Two working through some street-side trees at Cara Iguana were nicely cooperative -- eventually! This handsome species was recently split from the once widespread Rufous-browed Warbler (which is now restricted to Mexico, Belize and northern Guatemala).

BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis fulvicauda)

Two sashayed along the edge of the little stream running past the Lodge's dining room on a couple of days.

CANADA WARBLER (Cardellina canadensis) [b]

Several seen with mixed flocks on Altos del Maria. This is another winter visitor.

WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla) [b]

One along the track to Mirador Cerro Azul was only the second Tino had ever seen! This is a rare wintering species in Panama.

Mitrospingidae (Mitrospingid Tanagers)

DUSKY-FACED TANAGER (Mitrospingus cassinii)

A pair seen several times around the Lodge, including two nibbling eggs from plates after breakfast one morning.

Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)

HEPATIC TANAGER (HIGHLAND) (Piranga flava testacea)

Best seen during our visit to Altos del Maria, where we found a few (both males and females) with several mixed flocks. The dark bill and grayish cheek patch help to distinguish this species from the next.

SUMMER TANAGER (Piranga rubra) [b]

A couple of males seen during the week: one flew across in front of our bus as we headed to Finca Candelario, a second landed briefly in a nearby tree while we birded at Cara Iguana and we found a couple of others in the highlands. This is a winter visitor to Panama.

RED-CROWNED ANT-TANAGER (NORTHERN) (Habia rubica vinacea)

Our first were a little group in the shadowy understory at Canopy Adventure on our drippy morning there. We had even better views of another busy flock near the edge of the forest at Finca Candelario on our second visit.

RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGER (RED-THROATED) (Habia fuscicauda willisi)

A confiding gang along the track at the Metro Park, part of the big flock we encountered there.

Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)

WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Loriotus luctuosus)

A pair with the big mixed flock at the Metro Park worked through trees over the trail, and some of us saw others along the road up to Canopy Adventure later the same afternoon.

TAWNY-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus delatrii)

A fast-moving mob of some two dozen swirled through fruiting trees along Las Minas road, gobbling a few quick mouthfuls before disappearing again. We saw another busy group near the entrance to Finca Candelario on our second visit tehre, and still more in Valle Bonito.

FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER (LEMON-RUMPED) (Ramphocelus flammigerus icteronotus)

A few around the feeders at the Lodge for some, and good views of a pair on a fence along the road up to Finca Candelario on our second visit.

CRIMSON-BACKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus dimidiatus)

Seen well on all but our last day, with some especially fine studies of these handsome birds around the Lodge's feeders. This species ranges from Panama down into Colombia and Venezuela, with three subspecies (two of them endemic) found in Panama.

BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)

Another species recorded every day, including some regular visitors to the Lodge grounds.

PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)

A couple with the mixed flock that made its way around the Lodge grounds most days, with others along the road on our way up to Finca Candelario.

GOLDEN-HOODED TANAGER (Stilpnia larvata)

Common in mixed flocks throughout, with some particularly lovely views of a bird low in roadside vegetation at Altos del Maria. A real stunner!

PLAIN-COLORED TANAGER (Tangara inornata)

This one, on the other hand, is well-described by its name! It's a rather drab gray, with only a tiny hint of blue on its wing coverts.

BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola)

Another corker, with a range of colors that would get a person laughed off the street if they ever tried to wear them all at once! We had several in mixed flocks at Las Minas and others gobbling berries in Valle Bonito.

SILVER-THROATED TANAGER (Tangara icterocephala)

First seen in the fruiting Melastoma trees along the trail at Las Minas with others in the highlands of Altos del Maria and Valle Bonito.

RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus)

A pair just overhead along the trail to the Lodge's swimming hole on our first afternoon, with others at Mata Ahogado and La Hincada.

GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza)

A few with mixed flocks at Altos del Maria (or on the drive up) on each visit, including two with a mixed flock right at the entrance to Valle Bonito.

BLACK-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Chrysothlypis chrysomelas)

A little gang of half a dozen or so swirled through the slightly foggy trees over our heads at our first stop at Altos del Maria, and we saw others at the White-tipped Sicklebill spot on our way up to the highlands for our second visit.

WEDGE-TAILED GRASS-FINCH (Emberizoides herbicola)

Two sang challenges to each other on a windy hillside near La Cruce just before dawn on our last morning. One of them eventually perched up atop a low bush, giving us the chance to study it in the scopes.

RUDDY-BREASTED SEEDEATER (Sporophila minuta centralis)

A female spotted along the edge of the big lagoon at Playa Juan Hombron, showing nicely her subtly patterned wings.

THICK-BILLED SEED-FINCH (Sporophila funerea)

Two up the hill from the track to Las Minas weren't particularly cooperative, showing poorly for some and not at all for others. We certainly heard them though!

VARIABLE SEEDEATER (VARIABLE) (Sporophila corvina hoffmanni)

Our best views probably came at Mata Ahogado, where we found a pair feeding on tall grasses at the edge of town.

BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)

Scattered birds with mixed flocks on most days, including some regulars around the Lodge. Their complex, jumbled songs were a regular part of the tour soundtrack.

YELLOW-FACED GRASSQUIT (Tiaris olivaceus)

Some great views of these social little birds on roadside edges on La Mesa, where we found them nibbling the weed seeds.

BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus)

A single bird with the regular mixed flock around the Lodge on a couple of days, with another in a mixed flock at Altos del Maria.

BLACK-HEADED SALTATOR (Saltator atriceps)

One singing from a citrus tree top in Mata Ahogado showed well as the wind ruffled its feathers.

STREAKED SALTATOR (Saltator striatipectus)

One in a small tree at the corner of two roads at Cara Iguana was a bit elusive initially, but eventually popped out to where we could see it.


MAMMALS

HOFFMANN'S TWO-TOED SLOTH (Choloepus hoffmanni)

One in the trees at Finca Candelario was little more than a furry blob, though we could see it distinctive double claws.

BROWN-THROATED THREE-TOED SLOTH (Bradypus variegatus)

By far the more common sloth seen on the tour, found in four different places. While some looked like bits of old carpet tossed up into the branches, at least two had their faces out, and we could see the three long, curved "grappling hooks" on each foot, used to sling their way through the trees.

VARIEGATED SQUIRREL (Sciurus variegatoides)

Surprisingly, we saw only a single one of these larger squirrels -- scurrying along utility wires across from the Anton gas station we visited for pit stops on our way to Playa Juan Hombron. As its name suggests, this is a highly variable squirrel. The subspecies found in central Panama (helveous) is cream-colored with a dark brown back and tail.

RED-TAILED SQUIRREL (Sciurus granatensis)

This smaller squirrel was common visitor to the fruit feeder at Canopy Lodge, regularly attempting to haul off entire bananas.

WESTERN PYGMY SQUIRREL (Microsciurus mimulus)

One of these tiny squirrels rummaged low in the vegetation beside one of the roads at Altos del Maria.

CENTRAL AMERICAN AGOUTI (Dasyprocta punctata)

Very common on the grounds of the Canopy Lodge, with regular visitors to the area around the dining room -- including at least one very small youngster. Unlike many rodents, Central American Agoutis only give birth to 1-2 young at a time.


HERPS

GREEN IGUANA (Iguana iguana)

One sunning amid dense foliage in a tree at La Hincada our final morning.

COMMON BASILISK (Basiliscus basiliscus)

Several along the stream in front of the dining room at Canopy Lodge. Most were quite small, but we saw a good-sized male on a boulder in the middle of the waterway with an impressive crest running down his back, and an only-slightly-smaller female lurking on a shaded rock on the other side of the stream.

CENTRAL AMERICAN WHIPTAIL (Ameiva festiva)

This was the small, brown, striped lizard we saw on several days of the tour, typically scurrying in leaf litter or racing across roads.

MASKED TREE FROG (Smilisca phaeota) [*]

We heard the fairly deep croaks of this small frog echoing from the stream at Canopy Lodge on several drippy evenings.

TALAMANCA ROCKET FROG (Allobates talamancae) [*]

Abundant throughout, with dozens heard on virtually every outing.

RED-WEBBED TREE FROG (Boana rufitela) [*]

Tino identified a few heard along the road down to Playa Juan Hombron at one of our birding stops.


ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

The following is a list of the butterflies Tino identified for us during the tour:

Pointed Sister (Adelpha iphiclus)

Banded Tigerwing (Aeria eurimedia)

Banded Peacock (Anartia fatima)

White Peacock (Anartia jatrophae)

Pale-banded Crescent (Anthanassa tulcis)

Two-spotted Prepona (Archaeoprepona demophoon)

Dusky Owl-Butterfly (Caligo illioneus)

Pale Owl-Butterfly (Caligo telamonius)

Hezia Clearwing (Callithomia hezia)

Mimosa skipper (Cogia calchas)

Barnes' Metalmark (Detritivora barnesi)

Crisia Mimic-White (Dismorphia crisia)

Variable Crescent (Eresia ithomioides)

Variegated Clearwing (Godyris zavaleta)

Starry Cracker (Hamadryas laodamia)

Cydno Longwing (Heliconius cydno)

Crimson-patched Longwing (Heliconius erato)

Sara Longwing (Heliconius sara)

Hermes Satyr (Hermeuptychia hermes)

Orion Cecropian (Historis odious)

Orange Daggerwing (Marpesia berania)

Confusa Tigerwing (Methona confusa)

Cypris Morpho (Morpho cypris)

Common Morpho (Morpho peleides)

Androgeus Swallowtail (Papilio androgeus)

Thoas swallowtail (Papilio thoas)

Green Longwing (Philaethria dido)

Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae)

Least Prepona (Prepona dexamenus)

Mimosa Yellow (Pyrisitia nise)

Totals for the tour: 252 bird taxa and 6 mammal taxa