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The breathtaking view of El Yunque National Forest from our lodge in the mountains of northeastern Puerto Rico. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
“Wow” is the first word that jumps to mind when thinking of this year’s Field Guides tour to Puerto Rico. We had a splendid time circumnavigating the island and finding all 17 of the endemic bird species (and the other endemic taxa currently considered subspecies), with smashing views of most. We had six days jam-packed with goodness, including good birds, good food, and good humor.
We started off very early on day 1 of the tour and drove from San Juan to Rio Abajo State Forest. We arrived before sunrise, and it was light enough for the dawn chorus to be starting but still dark enough that Puerto Rican Screech-Owls were still calling. Bill spotted one perched in a stand of bamboo where it was settled in to roost for the day. An early morning bonus here was Ruddy Quail-Dove. We then birded our way up the paved road until we arrived at a good vantage point from which to see one of the most endangered parrots in the world, the Puerto Rican Parrot. After a bit of a wait we connected with these loud, charismatic parrots, and there was much rejoicing. After Rio Abajo we went to Cambalache State Forest, where we were treated to excellent views of Puerto Rican Woodpecker, Puerto Rican Oriole, and Puerto Rican Flycatcher, as well as good views for some of Puerto Rican Lizard-Cuckoo. We then headed west for lunch in Hatillo and then to visit a pasture pond in Cumuy where a vagrant American Flamingo has spent the last few years. While here, we also had the good fortune to experience a heart-pounding chase as a Peregrine Falcon hunted collared-doves and eventually caught one. Heading farther west, we stopped briefly at Guajataca to see a few White-tailed Tropicbirds flying around offshore, and then continued on, somehow skirting a big storm system on our way down the west side of the island to La Parguera.
On our first day out of Parguera, we drove over to Laguna Cartagena for a very pleasant morning that included several of the rare West Indian Whistling-Ducks, great views of Adelaide’s Warblers, and a suite of other waterbirds that we saw only here during the trip. In the afternoon, we birded around the town of Parguera, finding an amazing concentration of the endangered Yellow-shouldered Blackbird, numbering more than 100 individuals! We also enjoyed excellent point-blank views of the Caribbean form of Clapper Rail in the open before we headed back to the hotel for dinner. That evening, we searched for the Puerto Rican Nightjar and ended up finding a phenomenally cooperative male nightjar that allowed us to watch it perched in the open on a bare limb until we turned off the lights and headed to bed.
We got a dark and early start on day 3, to drive up the mountain to Maricao State Forest. Despite an unexpected road closure, we still weaved our way up into this gorgeous piece of forest in plenty of time to be immersed in the wonderful dawn chorus, thanks to some quick-thinking navigation audibles by Tom. Shortly after our arrival, we were greeted by our friend (another Tom, Tom Hudson) who works for the Peregrine Fund in Puerto Rico studying the Puerto Rican endemic subspecies of Sharp-shinned Hawk (venator). After an impromptu seminar from him about Sharp-shinned Hawk conservation on the island, we enjoyed a nice breakfast while in the company of Puerto Rican Tanagers, Puerto Rican Orioles and Scaly-naped Pigeons. We then birded the trails at Maricao for the rest of the morning, finding the gorgeous Antillean Euphonia and even spotting the endemic Elfin-woods Warbler twice. Just as we were about to leave the mountain reserve, we got a call from Tom H. telling us that he had found an adult Sharp-shinned Hawk perched nearby. Two minutes later, we had converged on the spot and were looking at this gorgeous and amazingly rare raptor (there are likely fewer than 150 of these in the world) at close range in the forest subcanopy. We then drove through San Germán for lunch, eating some excellent sandwiches en route to Susúa State Forest. At Susúa, we found Pearly-eyed Thrashers and White-winged Parakeets, as well as more good views of birds we’d seen before such as Zenaida Dove and Adelaide’s Warbler; however, the Key West Quail-Doves did not put in an appearance. After an early dinner, most of us went out on a nocturnal boat trip on the bay to take in the fascinating phenomenon of bioluminescence.
Our final day in the southwest of Puerto Rico began at Cabo Rojo (apparently coined as such by none other than Christopher Columbus), a thin hook of land that offers refuge to wintering shorebirds and waders. We parsed through a dizzying array of shorebirds present on the salt flats here, with highlights of Whimbrel, Snowy Plover, Western Sandpiper, and more amidst the hundreds of Stilt Sandpipers, Semipalmated Sandpipers, and Black-necked Stilts. A walk to the incredibly scenic lighthouse rewarded us with great views of many Brown Boobies (over 25), including one with a leg band. White-tailed Tropicbirds circled offshore, calling and engaging in their graceful courtship display flights. Departing Cabo Rojo, we headed to the eastern end of the island, stopping for a second round of lunch sandwiches in San Germán along the way. Before arriving in El Yunque, we made a stop to search for the rare and range-restricted Plain Pigeon in the central highlands, scoring immediately after our arrival. We made it to our beautiful eco-lodge on the edge of El Yunque in the early evening with enough light to appreciate the dusk chorus around us. After dinner and a well-timed rain shower, we went out looking for night critters and found a true bounty! What started out as a coquí frog quest turned into a night experience with several species of anoles, coquís, and land snails, cool insects, and a non-native rat in the bamboo.
Our last full day of birding began in the lowlands of the Humacao Reserve, where we found Green-throated Caribs feeding in the forest, a Puerto Rican Flycatcher building a nest, and a troop of Puerto Rican Woodpeckers making a big noisy scene right over our heads. We then headed over to the Fajardo Inn where we eventually picked up a furtive Antillean Crested Hummingbird as well as a Green-throated Carib putting the finishing touches (spiderwebs, to be exact) on a nest. On our way out of town, we stopped at the harbor, where a couple of adult Brown Boobies put on a spectacular show as they fished in front of us for a full 30 minutes. Our afternoon birding was centered on the excellent primary forest of El Yunque, which didn’t disappoint. In addition to good views of Louisiana Waterthrush, we found a couple of obliging Green Mangos for our best views of the trip. Throughout our hike here, we were surrounded by Puerto Rican Tanagers as well as the constant din of Scaly-naped Pigeon wings. As a nice way to cap off the walk, we found a Puerto Rican Lizard-Cuckoo that performed for all, putting a big exclamation point on an already hugely successful week.
The next morning, we drove to San Juan via the El Yunque visitors center, where we viewed some exhibits about the area and spent a little more time with a highlight reel of Puerto Rican birds including Puerto Rican Oriole, Red-legged Thrush, and Pearly-eyed Thrasher.
This year’s Puerto Rico tour would be a hard one to top. From the stupendously cooperative (and awesome) birds, to the pristine weather, to the food, and of course most importantly to this great group of people, it all worked out very well. The entire week was a genuine pleasure for Tom and me, and we can’t wait to share another adventure with you all again in the future.
--Doug
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
WEST INDIAN WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna arborea)
West Indian Whistling-Ducks are rare nowadays, so we felt very fortunate to connect with this cooperative flock at Laguna Cartagena. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
AMERICAN WIGEON (Anas americana)
BLUE-WINGED TEAL (Anas discors)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
WHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL (Anas bahamensis)
RING-NECKED DUCK (Aythya collaris)
RUDDY DUCK (Oxyura jamaicensis)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LEAST GREBE (Tachybaptus dominicus)
This American Flamingo has taken up reseidence at a couple of ponds around Cumuy for the past couple of years, even building and tending an unused nest in 2016. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
PIED-BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps)
Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)
AMERICAN FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus ruber)
Phaethontidae (Tropicbirds)
WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRD (Phaethon lepturus)
Fregatidae (Frigatebirds)
MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens)
This fish didn't stand a chance of getting away from the voracious Brown Booby that was feeding in the harbor at Fajardo. (Photo by guide Tom Johnson)
Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets)
BROWN BOOBY (Sula leucogaster)
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
TRICOLORED HERON (Egretta tricolor)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) [N]
GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
The endemic race of Sharp-shinned Hawk can be really tricky to track down, but we had the great fortune of having an informant on the inside who was able to lead us to this one at the 11th hour. (Photo by participant Beth Branthaver)
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
SHARP-SHINNED HAWK (CARIBBEAN) (Accipiter striatus venator) [N]
BROAD-WINGED HAWK (CARIBBEAN) (Buteo platypterus brunnescens)
RED-TAILED HAWK (JAMAICENSIS) (Buteo jamaicensis jamaicensis)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
CLAPPER RAIL (CARIBBEAN) (Rallus crepitans caribaeus)
SORA (Porzana carolina)
This Clapper Rail was remarkably confiding among the Black Mangroves along the coast at Parguera. (Photo by participant Beth Branthaver)
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinicus)
COMMON GALLINULE (Gallinula galeata)
AMERICAN COOT (Fulica americana americana)
AMERICAN COOT (Fulica americana columbiana)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (Himantopus mexicanus)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola)
SNOWY PLOVER (Charadrius nivosus)
WILSON'S PLOVER (Charadrius wilsonia) [*]
SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus)
KILLDEER (Charadrius vociferus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
STILT SANDPIPER (Calidris himantopus)
LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla)
SEMIPALMATED SANDPIPER (Calidris pusilla)
We had some great experiences with the endangered Yellow-shouldered Blackbird in Parguera, where we saw over a hundred! (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
WESTERN SANDPIPER (Calidris mauri)
WILSON'S SNIPE (Gallinago delicata)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
ROYAL TERN (Thalasseus maximus)
SANDWICH TERN (CABOT'S) (Thalasseus sandvicensis acuflavidus)
Can you get any more adorable than a Tody?! The Puerto Rican Tody is one of five species of this Greater Antillean endemic. (Photo by guide Tom Johnson)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
SCALY-NAPED PIGEON (Patagioenas squamosa)
This Puerto Rican Lizard-Cuckoo gave us a good vocal showing from the canopy at El Yunque, and participant Dana Hardy was able to weave through the various obstructing branches and leaves and find a window through which to immortalize it.
WHITE-CROWNED PIGEON (Patagioenas leucocephala)
PLAIN PIGEON (Patagioenas inornata wetmorei)
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
AFRICAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia roseogrisea) [I]
COMMON GROUND-DOVE (Columbina passerina portoricensis) [N]
RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon montana)
WHITE-WINGED DOVE (Zenaida asiatica) [N]
ZENAIDA DOVE (Zenaida aurita)
MOURNING DOVE (Zenaida macroura)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)
MANGROVE CUCKOO (Coccyzus minor) [*]
PUERTO RICAN LIZARD-CUCKOO (Coccyzus vieilloti) [E]
Strigidae (Owls)
PUERTO RICAN SCREECH-OWL (Megascops nudipes) [E]
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
PUERTO RICAN NIGHTJAR (Antrostomus noctitherus) [E]
If you have to choose only one woodpecker to see for a week, the flashy Puerto Rican Woodpecker isn't a bad choice! (Photo by participant Beth Branthaver)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
ANTILLEAN MANGO (Anthracothorax dominicus aurulentus)
GREEN MANGO (Anthracothorax viridis) [E]
GREEN-THROATED CARIB (Eulampis holosericeus) [N]
Participant Beth Branthaver got this great photo of our splendid Puerto Rican Nightjar.
PUERTO RICAN EMERALD (Chlorostilbon maugaeus) [E]
ANTILLEAN CRESTED HUMMINGBIRD (LESSER ANTILLES) (Orthorhyncus cristatus exilis)
Todidae (Todies)
PUERTO RICAN TODY (Todus mexicanus) [E]
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
PUERTO RICAN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes portoricensis) [EN]
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
AMERICAN KESTREL (EASTERN CARIBBEAN) (Falco sparverius caribaearum) [N]
MERLIN (Falco columbarius)
This is a great time of year to visit Puerto Rico, since all of the birds, including this pair of American Kestrels at our hotel in Parguera, are in breeding mode. This makes them a lot more vocal, active, and behaviorially interesting. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus) [IN]
WHITE-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris versicolurus)
We sure had a good time on the tour! Here's a video collage from our trip by guide Doug Gochfeld.
PUERTO RICAN PARROT (Amazona vittata) [E]
ORANGE-FRONTED PARAKEET (Eupsittula canicularis) [IN]
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
CARIBBEAN ELAENIA (Elaenia martinica)
LESSER ANTILLEAN PEWEE (PUERTO RICO) (Contopus latirostris blancoi)
PUERTO RICAN FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus antillarum) [EN]
GRAY KINGBIRD (Tyrannus dominicensis)
LOGGERHEAD KINGBIRD (PUERTO RICAN) (Tyrannus caudifasciatus taylori)
This Caribbean Martin was one of an obliging pair hanging around the cliffs at Cabo Rojo. (Photo by particpant Dana Hardy)
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
PUERTO RICAN VIREO (Vireo latimeri) [E]
BLACK-WHISKERED VIREO (Vireo altiloquus)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
CARIBBEAN MARTIN (Progne dominicensis)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
CAVE SWALLOW (CARIBBEAN) (Petrochelidon fulva puertoricensis) [N]
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
RED-LEGGED THRUSH (ARDOSIACEUS/ALBIVENTRIS) (Turdus plumbeus ardosiaceus) [N]
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
PEARLY-EYED THRASHER (Margarops fuscatus)
NORTHERN MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus polyglottos)
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia motacilla)
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis)
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia)
COMMON YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis trichas)
ELFIN-WOODS WARBLER (Setophaga angelae) [E]
This Elfin-woods Warbler (the most recently discovered of all the Puerto Rican endemic bid species) was one of about four that we saw in the beautiful Maricao State Forest. This view of one was frozen for all eternity by participant Bill Williams.
AMERICAN REDSTART (Setophaga ruticilla)
NORTHERN PARULA (Setophaga americana)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
BLACK-THROATED BLUE WARBLER (Setophaga caerulescens)
PRAIRIE WARBLER (Setophaga discolor)
ADELAIDE'S WARBLER (Setophaga adelaidae) [E]
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
BANANAQUIT (CARIBBEAN) (Coereba flaveola portoricensis) [N]
YELLOW-FACED GRASSQUIT (Tiaris olivaceus bryanti)
BLACK-FACED GRASSQUIT (Tiaris bicolor omissus) [N]
The striking Puerto Rican Bullfinch was seen often, though they rarely stayed still on a single perch for very long, so participant Bill Williams did a great job of capturing one so well.
PUERTO RICAN BULLFINCH (Loxigilla portoricensis) [E]
PUERTO RICAN TANAGER (Nesospingus speculiferus) [E]
PUERTO RICAN SPINDALIS (Spindalis portoricensis) [E]
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
GRASSHOPPER SPARROW (Ammodramus savannarum) [*]
Puerto Rican Tanager is one of the least known of the endemic Puerto Rican passerines, and recent research has shown that it likely belongs in its own monotypic family (which would be called Nesospingidae). We had very good experiences with them at both Maricao and El Yunque. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
YELLOW-SHOULDERED BLACKBIRD (Agelaius xanthomus) [E]
GREATER ANTILLEAN GRACKLE (Quiscalus niger brachypterus)
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)
PUERTO RICAN ORIOLE (Icterus portoricensis) [EN]
We had great luck with Puerto Rican Oriole this year, seeing them at several places through the week, though the ones at Casa Cubuy may have been the most confiding, frequently perching close and out in the open to show off their elegant black and yellow garb. (Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld)
VENEZUELAN TROUPIAL (Icterus icterus) [I]
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
ANTILLEAN EUPHONIA (Euphonia musica sclateri)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]
Ploceidae (Weavers and Allies)
NORTHERN RED BISHOP (Euplectes franciscanus) [I]
Venezuelan Troupial is one of the most striking of the introduced birds to Puerto Rico, and we ran into a few of them in the southwestern part of the island. (Photo by participant Bill Williams)
Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies)
ORANGE-CHEEKED WAXBILL (Estrilda melpoda) [I]
BRONZE MANNIKIN (Spermestes cucullata) [I]
Our merry band of birders at the wonderful bluffs at Cabo Rojo.
SMALL INDIAN MONGOOSE (Herpestes auropunctatus) [I]
Totals for the tour: 124 bird taxa and 1 mammal taxa