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Eurasian Marsh-Harrier (Photo by participant David Woods)
Our inaugural Hungary & Romania tour took us from the Danube Delta and the Black Sea coast to the Carpathian Mountains, Torda Gorge, and Hortobagy and Kiskunsag national parks. With our itinerary beginning in Bucharest and finishing in Budapest, many of the group added extra days to see some of the historical sites in these two famous cities.
Our birding began after a five-hour drive to Tulcea, the gateway to the Danube Delta. Once aboard our floating hotel, we headed into the delta with a small 'tug' pulling us and an extra third, smaller boat to allow us to venture into some of the smaller, shallower, side channels where most of the birds are found. We spent three nights here, mooring up at different spots and then using the smaller boat for excursions. The weather turned out to be much colder than the norm, but we slowly added a great selection of waterbirds including 11 species of waterfowl (Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck were two of the less common ones), Red-necked and Great Crested grebes (nesting and displaying), Pygmy Cormorant (hundreds), Great White and Dalmatian pelicans, a good variety of herons and egrets, Glossy Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, Ruff (with several males in exotic breeding plumage), Collared Pratincole, Caspian Gull, and Black, White-winged, and Whiskered terns (all in breeding plumage). Trees along the banks were perches for White-tailed Eagle, and the reedbeds held Savi's Warbler, Bearded Reedling, and Eurasian Penduline-Tit. Our walks on land produced a variety of open woodland species, varying from Common Cuckoo to Eurasian Hoopoe, Gray-headed Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Northern Wheatear, and Corn Bunting.
We then spent two nights based at Constanta on the Black Sea coast, here we explored woodlands in the Dobrodgea area and the extensive wetlands that run for hundreds of kilometers to the north. Just some of our more memorable sightings included White Storks on their nests (one pair with Spanish Sparrows breeding in the underside of these huge twig structures), Steppe Eagle (rare here), Booted Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard, hundreds more herons, shorebirds, gulls, and terns, European Roller, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Red-backed Shrike, Calandra, Greater Short-toed, Crested, and Sky larks, Sombre Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch, Willow Warbler, Blackcap, Common Nightingale, Black Redstart, Ortolan Bunting, European Greenfinch, Hawfinch, and a delightful little rodent known as Souslik.
We then headed west to our base at Desag near Mt. Hargita in the Carpathian Mountains. During three nights here we visited the Bicaz Gorge, where Wallcreeper was a highlight on the cliff face and a very tame White-throated Dipper was along the rocky stream. In the open country we enjoyed Lesser Spotted Eagle, Northern and Lesser Gray shrikes, Fieldfare, Ring Ouzel, Water Pipit, European Goldfinch, and Serin, while in the forests Eurasian Pygmy-Owl, Crested and Coal tits, and fabulous close Firecrest were all seen well. Even the local city park provided highlights, with Collared Flycatcher in the day and European Scops-Owl at night. Most fabulous though was a visit to a blind where Brown Bears put on a fabulous show; for more than two hours we watched interactions between two mothers with their young, another lone female, a younger male, and finally a large male as they fed on the provided meat and offal -- sometimes walking in front of us only a few meters away!
The final part of our birding in Romania was to the Apuseni Hills and Torda Gorge. Based in a lovely hotel, we saw our first Black Stork and watched a Golden Eagle on a nest with two young, while other additions to our list included Little Owl, Alpine Swift, Wood Lark, Eurasian Crag-Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Greater Whitethroat, Rock Bunting, and Yellowhammer.
We then began the Hungarian part of our tour with a two night stay at Hortobagy National Park -- a mix of controlled traditional farmland, marshes, woodland, and "Puszta" grassland. In addition to many species of waterbirds we had enjoyed previously, we added Common Crane, Black Woodpecker (super close views), Eurasian Green Woodpecker, beautiful male and female Red-footed Falcons, Saker Falcon, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Marsh Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper, and Moustached Warbler (for a few of the group).
For our last stop we stayed in the Kiskunsag National Park near to Budapest. Our main target here was Great Bustard, for this is their European stronghold. We were not disappointed, seeing at least a dozen during our first afternoon. Once again the marshes held a wealth of waterbirds, while in the farmlands we saw Gray Partridge, Black Stork, Eurasian Thick-knee, wonderful Mediterranean Gulls in breeding plumage, Imperial Eagle (unfortunately only a distant silhouette), Syrian Woodpecker, and Barred Warbler. Most bizarre however was on our final morning when most of the group saw a Great Bittern -- standing right in the open in the middle of the road!
Till next time, good birding!
--Terry
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
GRAYLAG GOOSE (Anser anser)

Cheile Dobrogei, with the rocky landscape giving way to wind farms on the flatlands (Photo by participant David Woods)
MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor) COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)
GADWALL (Anas strepera)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
GARGANEY (Anas querquedula)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)
RED-CRESTED POCHARD (Netta rufina)
COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)
FERRUGINOUS DUCK (Aythya nyroca)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
GRAY PARTRIDGE (Perdix perdix)

One of many charming church styles we saw along the way (Photo by participant Daphne Gemmill)
COMMON QUAIL (Coturnix coturnix) RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena)
GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)
EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis nigricollis)
Ciconiidae (Storks)
BLACK STORK (Ciconia nigra)
WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
PYGMY CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax pygmaeus)
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
GREAT WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus onocrotalus)
DALMATIAN PELICAN (Pelecanus crispus)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BITTERN (Botaurus stellaris)
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
EURASIAN SPOONBILL (Platalea leucorodia)
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
EUROPEAN HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis apivorus)
LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga pomarina)

Bearded Reedling (Photo by participant David Woods)
BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus) STEPPE EAGLE (Aquila nipalensis)
IMPERIAL EAGLE (Aquila heliaca)
GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos)
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
NORTHERN HARRIER (EURASIAN) (Circus cyaneus cyaneus)
PALLID HARRIER (Circus macrourus)
MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)
WHITE-TAILED EAGLE (Haliaeetus albicilla)
COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)
LONG-LEGGED BUZZARD (Buteo rufinus)
Otididae (Bustards)
GREAT BUSTARD (Otis tarda)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
WATER RAIL (Rallus aquaticus)
LITTLE CRAKE (Porzana parva)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)

White-throated Dipper (Photo by partcipant David Woods)
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra) Gruidae (Cranes)
COMMON CRANE (Grus grus)
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
EURASIAN THICK-KNEE (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)
KENTISH PLOVER (Charadrius alexandrinus)
LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus)

White-tailed Eagle (Photo by participant David Woods)
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia) MARSH SANDPIPER (Tringa stagnatilis)
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
BLACK-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa limosa)
BAR-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa lapponica)
RUFF (Calidris pugnax)
CURLEW SANDPIPER (Calidris ferruginea)
SANDERLING (Calidris alba)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago)
Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)
COLLARED PRATINCOLE (Glareola pratincola)
Stercorariidae (Skuas and Jaegers)
POMARINE JAEGER (Stercorarius pomarinus)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
SLENDER-BILLED GULL (Chroicocephalus genei)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
LITTLE GULL (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (Larus michahellis)
CASPIAN GULL (Larus cachinnans)
LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)
BLACK TERN (Chlidonias niger)
WHITE-WINGED TERN (Chlidonias leucopterus)
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
STOCK DOVE (Columba oenas)

Gray Heron and Great Crested Grebe nests (Photo by participant David Woods)
COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus) EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)
Strigidae (Owls)
EUROPEAN SCOPS-OWL (Otus scops)
EURASIAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium passerinum)
LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)
Apodidae (Swifts)
ALPINE SWIFT (Apus melba)
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

Danube delta scene (Photo by participant Daphne Gemmill)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis) Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)
Coraciidae (Rollers)
EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
LESSER SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos minor)
MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos medius)
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos major)
SYRIAN WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos syriacus)
EURASIAN THREE-TOED WOODPECKER (Picoides tridactylus)
BLACK WOODPECKER (Dryocopus martius)
EURASIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus viridis)
GRAY-HEADED WOODPECKER (Picus canus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
RED-FOOTED FALCON (Falco vespertinus)
EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)
SAKER FALCON (Falco cherrug)
Laniidae (Shrikes)
RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)

Pied Avocet (Photo by participant David Woods)
NORTHERN SHRIKE (Lanius excubitor) LESSER GRAY SHRIKE (Lanius minor)
Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
EURASIAN GOLDEN ORIOLE (Oriolus oriolus)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)
EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)
EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)
ROOK (Corvus frugilegus)
HOODED CROW (Corvus cornix)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Panuridae (Bearded Reedling)
BEARDED REEDLING (Panurus biarmicus)
Alaudidae (Larks)

A traditional Szekely or Szekler gate in Hungary (Photo by participant Daphne Gemmill)
CALANDRA LARK (Melanocorypha calandra) GREATER SHORT-TOED LARK (Calandrella brachydactyla)
CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)
SKY LARK (Alauda arvensis)
WOOD LARK (Lullula arborea)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
EURASIAN CRAG-MARTIN (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (Cecropis daurica)
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
SOMBRE TIT (Poecile lugubris)
MARSH TIT (Poecile palustris)
WILLOW TIT (Poecile montanus)
COAL TIT (Periparus ater)
CRESTED TIT (Lophophanes cristatus)
GREAT TIT (Parus major)
EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)
Remizidae (Penduline-Tits)
EURASIAN PENDULINE-TIT (Remiz pendulinus)
Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)

European Scops-Owl (Photo by participant David Woods)
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea) Tichodromidae (Wallcreeper)
WALLCREEPER (Tichodroma muraria)
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
EURASIAN TREECREEPER (Certhia familiaris)
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)
Cinclidae (Dippers)
WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)
FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf-Warblers)

Transylvania scene (Photo by participant David Woods)
WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus) COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
Acrocephalidae (Reed-Warblers and Allies)
MOUSTACHED WARBLER (Acrocephalus melanopogon)
SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
EURASIAN REED-WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
GREAT REED-WARBLER (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
Locustellidae (Grassbirds and Allies)
SAVI'S WARBLER (Locustella luscinioides)
Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers)
BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
BARRED WARBLER (Sylvia nisoria)
LESSER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia curruca)
GREATER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia communis)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)
COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos)
EUROPEAN PIED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula hypoleuca)
COLLARED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula albicollis)
COMMON REDSTART (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)
WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra)
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola)
NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)
PIED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe pleschanka)
ISABELLINE WHEATEAR (Oenanthe isabellina)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
RING OUZEL (Turdus torquatus)
EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)
FIELDFARE (Turdus pilaris)
SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos)

Bear families (Photo by participant David Woods)
MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus) Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
Prunellidae (Accentors)
DUNNOCK (Prunella modularis)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla flava)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (BLACK-HEADED) (Motacilla flava feldegg)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba)
TAWNY PIPIT (Anthus campestris)
TREE PIPIT (Anthus trivialis)

Yellowhammer (Photo by participant Daphne Gemmill)
RED-THROATED PIPIT (Anthus cervinus) WATER PIPIT (Anthus spinoletta)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella)
ROCK BUNTING (Emberiza cia)
ORTOLAN BUNTING (Emberiza hortulana)
REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus)
CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)
EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)
EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)
EURASIAN LINNET (Carduelis cannabina)
EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)
HAWFINCH (Coccothraustes coccothraustes)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
SPANISH SPARROW (Passer hispaniolensis)
EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)
EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus)
EUROPEAN SOUSLIK (Spermophilus citellus)
EUROPEAN RED SQUIRREL (Sciurus vulgaris)
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
BROWN (INCL. GRIZZLY) BEAR (Ursus arctos)
WILD BOAR (Sus scrofa)
ROE DEER (Capreolus capreolus)
Totals for the tour: 203 bird taxa and 7 mammal taxa