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The dainty Black Redstart is widespread along our route through Hungary and Romania. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
Our Hungary and Romania 2016 tour largely followed the route we had taken in 2015, but we added a couple of cultural visits -- including a night in the historical town of Brasov, an excellent traditional lunch in the Saxon village of Viscri, and a tour of Dracula's (Bran) Castle. Pre-tour and post-tour extensions to see the cities of Bucharest and Budapest were also available for those who wanted them. Our birding experiences took us from the Danube Delta to the Black Sea coast, through the Carpathian Mountains, the Bicaz Gorge, and west in to Hungary and the reserves at Hortobagy and Kiskunsag.
Beginning in Bucharest, it was a five-hour drive to Tulcea,where we boarded our floating hotel for a three-night stay. We soon made ourselves comfortable, with ten cabins, a restaurant, bar, and rooftop viewing deck. Pulled by a small 'tug' and towing a second smaller boat for use on the small and shallower channels, we were prepared for any eventuality. We spent three nights on board, enjoying delicious food and birding the channels and lagoons. Highlights included 15 species of waterfowl, varying from Graylag Goose and Mute Swan to Garganey, Red-crested Pochard, Ferruginous Duck, and even a male Smew. Great-crested and Red-necked grebes were also common, as were Pygmy Cormorants, and both Great White and Dalmatian pelicans. We also saw six species of herons, Eurasian Spoonbill, 17 species of shorebirds, and many Black, White-winged and Whiskered terns, all in breeding plumage -- and just stunning! Landbirds in the delta included ten different White-tailed Eagles, Eurasian Hoopoe, Black and Gray-headed woodpeckers, Red-footed Falcon, Eurasian Hobby, gorgeous Bearded Reedlings, Eurasian Penduline-tit, Long-tailed Tit, Savi's Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, and Reed Bunting.
Once back at Tulcea, we then drove to the Babadag Hills and the Cheile Dobrodgea Gorge, seeing ten species of migrating raptors which included European Honey-Buzzard, Booted Eagle, Levant Sparrowhawk, and Long-legged Buzzard. The special bird of the hills here is Sombre Tit, which proved difficult this year, but eventually we all had good looks. The farm fields held Calandra and Greater Short-toed larks, and finally at the gorge we found Pied Wheatear and a lovely singing Ortolan Bunting.
After a night in Constanta (on the Black Sea coast) we made a short visit to the Vadu Marshes, where we saw many more shorebirds including Ruff, Curlew Sandpiper, and Spotted Redshank in breeding plumage. We then spent the afternoon driving to Brasov, with nesting White Storks a feature of almost every village along the way.
The following morning found us visiting Bran Castle (more often known as Dracula's Castle) and then lunch at the lovely Saxon Village of Viscri. Afternoon birding included a visit to some fish ponds, where highlights included Lesser Spotted Eagle, Little Gull, and Northern and Lesser Gray shrikes.
Continuing on we spent three nights at Desag, giving us access to Mount Hargita, Bicaz Gorge, and a specially arranged visit to a Brown Bear hide. Birding highlights included seven species of corvids (including Eurasian Nutcracker), Coal, Crested, Marsh, Willow, and Great tits, Long-tailed Tit, great close looks at Wallcreeper, Eurasian Treecreeper, White-throated Dipper, Goldcrest, Firecrest, Common Redstart, Ring Ousel, Mistle Thrush, Eurasian Bullfinch, and European Serin. The hide was also outstanding, with a huge male Brown Bear as we entered the hide, and then 90 minutes of watching two females and four youngsters, sometimes feeding only 20 feet away!
We then headed further west to Odorheiu Secuiesc and Coltesti, where, based at a lovely hotel set in an area of traditionally farmed countryside, we added Short-toed Snake-Eagle, Golden Eagle, Corncrake (just amazing looks), Alpine Swift, Little Owl, European Scops-Owl, Eurasian Wryneck, Little Spotted and Syrian woodpeckers, Red-rumped Swallow, Collared Flycatcher and Rock Bunting.
Crossing the border into Hungary we visited two main areas, first the Foldes Wetland and Hortobagy where we enjoyed Black Stork, Common Crane, European Roller, and Common Nightingale (a real skulker). Then it was on to Kiskunsag, where thanks to Lajos's friend, the local warden, we were quickly taken from stakeout to stakeout; just a few of the most memorable birds were Gray Partridge, Imperial Eagle, Great Bustard (a total of 25, with a displaying male), Eurasian Thick-knee, Long-eared Owl on a nest, Eurasian Nightjar, nice looks at European Bee-eater, Saker (distantly), Short-toed Treecreeper, Eurasian and Great reed-warblers, Moustached Warbler, and of course a good variety of other more widespread species.
As a finale for our visit to the region, most of this happy fun group the tour continued with an optional tour to the historical city of Budapest.
It was wonderful traveling with all of you. Good birding!
--Terry
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
GRAYLAG GOOSE (Anser anser)
MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor)
COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)
GADWALL (Anas strepera)

One of the White-throated Dippers we saw so well at Bicaz Gorge, photographed by participant Jan Shaw.
EURASIAN WIGEON (Anas penelope)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
GARGANEY (Anas querquedula)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)
RED-CRESTED POCHARD (Netta rufina)
COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)
FERRUGINOUS DUCK (Aythya nyroca)
SMEW (Mergellus albellus)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus)
GRAY PARTRIDGE (Perdix perdix)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena)
GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)
EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis nigricollis)
Ciconiidae (Storks)
BLACK STORK (Ciconia nigra)
WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)

White Storks were nesting atop buildings in almost every village we passed through. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
PYGMY CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax pygmeus)
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
GREAT WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus onocrotalus)
DALMATIAN PELICAN (Pelecanus crispus)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BITTERN (Botaurus stellaris)
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
EURASIAN SPOONBILL (Platalea leucorodia)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
EUROPEAN HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis apivorus)
SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)
LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga pomarina)
GREATER SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga clanga)
BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus)
IMPERIAL EAGLE (Aquila heliaca)

This was our floating base for several days in the Danube delta...hotel, bar, and transportion all in one! Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos)
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
NORTHERN HARRIER (EURASIAN) (Circus cyaneus cyaneus)
PALLID HARRIER (Circus macrourus)
MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)
LEVANT SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter brevipes)
EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)
WHITE-TAILED EAGLE (Haliaeetus albicilla)
COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)
LONG-LEGGED BUZZARD (Buteo rufinus)
Otididae (Bustards)
GREAT BUSTARD (Otis tarda)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
WATER RAIL (Rallus aquaticus)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)
Gruidae (Cranes)
COMMON CRANE (Grus grus)
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
EURASIAN THICK-KNEE (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)

Out for a birding walk in the Turda Gorge forest. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)
COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula)
LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus)
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
BLACK-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa limosa)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
RUFF (Calidris pugnax)
CURLEW SANDPIPER (Calidris ferruginea)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago)
Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)
COLLARED PRATINCOLE (Glareola pratincola)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)

This Great Tit was bringing food to a nest. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
LITTLE GULL (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus) [E]
MEW GULL (Larus canus)
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (Larus michahellis)
CASPIAN GULL (Larus cachinnans)
LITTLE TERN (Sternula albifrons)
GULL-BILLED TERN (Gelochelidon nilotica)
CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)
BLACK TERN (Chlidonias niger)
WHITE-WINGED TERN (Chlidonias leucopterus)
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
STOCK DOVE (Columba oenas)
COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)
EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)

One of the famous Szekler gates showing the fine ornamental detail. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
Strigidae (Owls)
EUROPEAN SCOPS-OWL (Otus scops)
LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)
TAWNY OWL (Strix aluco)
LONG-EARED OWL (Asio otus)
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
EURASIAN NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus europaeus)
Apodidae (Swifts)
ALPINE SWIFT (Apus melba)
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)
Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)
Coraciidae (Rollers)
EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
EURASIAN WRYNECK (Jynx torquilla)
LESSER SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos minor)
MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos medius)
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos major)
SYRIAN WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos syriacus)
BLACK WOODPECKER (Dryocopus martius)
EURASIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus viridis)

A huge Imperial Eagle giving us the full approach profile at Kiskunsag. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
GRAY-HEADED WOODPECKER (Picus canus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
RED-FOOTED FALCON (Falco vespertinus)
EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)
SAKER FALCON (Falco cherrug)
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
Laniidae (Shrikes)
RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)
NORTHERN SHRIKE (Lanius excubitor)
LESSER GRAY SHRIKE (Lanius minor)
Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
EURASIAN GOLDEN ORIOLE (Oriolus oriolus)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)
EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)
EURASIAN NUTCRACKER (Nucifraga caryocatactes)
EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)
ROOK (Corvus frugilegus)
HOODED CROW (Corvus cornix)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Panuridae (Bearded Reedling)
BEARDED REEDLING (Panurus biarmicus)

The ruins of the medieval Coltesti fortress in Romania, photographed by participant Jan Shaw.
Alaudidae (Larks)
CALANDRA LARK (Melanocorypha calandra)
GREATER SHORT-TOED LARK (Calandrella brachydactyla)
CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)
SKY LARK (Alauda arvensis)
WOOD LARK (Lullula arborea)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
EURASIAN CRAG-MARTIN (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (Cecropis daurica)
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
COAL TIT (Periparus ater)
CRESTED TIT (Lophophanes cristatus)
SOMBRE TIT (Poecile lugubris)
MARSH TIT (Poecile palustris)
WILLOW TIT (Poecile montanus)
EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)
GREAT TIT (Parus major)
Remizidae (Penduline-Tits)
EURASIAN PENDULINE-TIT (Remiz pendulinus)

We had fabulous views of Brown Bears at the hide, including this youngster. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea)
Tichodromidae (Wallcreeper)
WALLCREEPER (Tichodroma muraria)
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
EURASIAN TREECREEPER (Certhia familiaris)
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)
Cinclidae (Dippers)
WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)
FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
WOOD WARBLER (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)
Acrocephalidae (Reed-Warblers and Allies)
MOUSTACHED WARBLER (Acrocephalus melanopogon)
SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
MARSH WARBLER (Acrocephalus palustris)
EURASIAN REED-WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
GREAT REED-WARBLER (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
Locustellidae (Grassbirds and Allies)
EURASIAN RIVER WARBLER (Locustella fluviatilis)
SAVI'S WARBLER (Locustella luscinioides)
COMMON GRASSHOPPER-WARBLER (Locustella naevia)

Bran Castle, also known as Dracula's Castle, was one of our cultural stops along the way. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers)
EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
GARDEN WARBLER (Sylvia borin)
LESSER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia curruca)
GREATER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia communis)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)
EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)
COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos)
EUROPEAN PIED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula hypoleuca)
COLLARED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula albicollis)
COMMON REDSTART (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)
RUFOUS-TAILED ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola saxatilis)
WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra)
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola)
NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)
PIED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe pleschanka)
ISABELLINE WHEATEAR (Oenanthe isabellina)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
RING OUZEL (Turdus torquatus)

The big Black Woodpecker is an Old World representative of the Pileated/Lineated genus we see in the Americas. Photo by participant Jan Shaw.
EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)
FIELDFARE (Turdus pilaris)
SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos)
MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
Prunellidae (Accentors)
DUNNOCK (Prunella modularis)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla flava)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (BLACK-HEADED) (Motacilla flava feldegg)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba)
TAWNY PIPIT (Anthus campestris)
MEADOW PIPIT (Anthus pratensis)
TREE PIPIT (Anthus trivialis)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella)
ROCK BUNTING (Emberiza cia)
ORTOLAN BUNTING (Emberiza hortulana)
BLACK-HEADED BUNTING (Emberiza melanocephala)
REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus)
CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)
EURASIAN BULLFINCH (Pyrrhula pyrrhula)
EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)
EURASIAN SISKIN (Spinus spinus)
EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)
EURASIAN LINNET (Carduelis cannabina)
EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
SPANISH SPARROW (Passer hispaniolensis)
EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)
EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus)
EUROPEAN SOUSLIK (Spermophilus citellus)
EUROPEAN RED SQUIRREL (Sciurus vulgaris)
MUSKRAT (Ondatra zibethica)
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
BROWN (INCL. GRIZZLY) BEAR (Ursus arctos)
BEECH MARTEN (Martes foina)
ROE DEER (Capreolus capreolus)
Totals for the tour: 213 bird taxa and 8 mammal taxa