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Here is our group, looking intently at a well-hidden European Scops-Owl in the city park in Szekelyudvarhely. This was just one of the adventures we had on this tour! Photo by guide Lajos Nemeth-Boka.
Our Hungary and Romania 2018 tour took place as usual around the last week of April and first week of May. Amazingly, though, the weather couldn't have been more different from two of our past three tours. We didn't experience any of the cold we'd had before, and instead enjoyed a wonderful sunny European Spring throughout the whole tour.
As usual, we began in Bucharest where many of the group took an optional pre-tour extension to this historic city. The following day found us driving east to Tulcea on the Danube River, where we boarded our floating hotel and were soon on our way into the sprawling delta. We spent three nights on this small 'ship', enjoying some fabulous meals, friendly staff, and of course, great birding. Our private cabins were all on the main vessel, while we were pulled from place to place by a small tug and had the use of a small shallow-hulled boat to enter the more narrow channels. Just some of the highlights we saw during three days aboard were 15 species of ducks and geese, including a magnificent Red-breasted Goose which at this time should have been far away in Siberia. Red-crested Pochard were another favorite, as were Ferruginous Duck and Garganey. Red-necked and Great-crested were the favorites of the four species of grebes we saw, while other waterbird highlights included Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian Pelican, Squacco Heron, and Eurasian Spoonbill. Shorebirds included Pied Avocet, Black-tailed Godwit, and Ruff in a variety of exotic plumages. All three marsh terns (Black, White-winged and Whiskered) were seen in breeding plumage, while gulls included Little, Caspian and Pallas's. Birds of prey were also variable, with Eurasian Marsh-Harrier being the most common, but we also saw at least 20 White-tailed Eagles, a Long-legged Buzzard, and several smart-looking Red-footed Falcons. On land (or near to it), highlights were Eurasian Hoopoe, Black Woodpecker, Bearded Reedling (just gorgeous), Eurasian Penduline-Tit, Great Reed and Savi's warblers, European Pied Flycatcher, and Reed Bunting.
After our return to Tulcea we made a day drive inland to the Babadag Hills, the Cheia Dobrodgea Gorge, and finally to Constanta on the Black Sea coast. It was a varied day, with species including Gray Partridge, Black Stork, Short-toed Snake-Eagle, Little Owl, European Roller, Greater Short-toed, Calandra, and Crested larks, Sombre Tit, Common Nightingale, Pied and Isabelline wheatears, Yellowhammer, and Ortolan Bunting. We also had two new mammals - European Souslik (sort of like a Prairie Dog) and Red Fox.
The following day was largely a travel day, but first we headed to the beach and nearby lagoons where large numbers of migrant shorebirds were present (19 species in all). Spanish Sparrows breeding in the lower side of an active White Stork's nest was another notable sighting before we began the long drive to Brasov - a medieval city to the northwest and near to Bran (Dracula's) Castle. Indeed, we began the following day with a visit to this famous touristic site - perhaps the most visited castle in the whole of Eastern Europe. We then continued on for lunch in Viscri, a traditional Saxon village with a fortified church and now a World Heritage site. Birding included a stop at the Sin Paul Fishponds and several sites along the Lesser Spotted Eagle flyway. New birds today included Little Bittern, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Northern Goshawk, Eurasian Green Woodpecker, Great Gray Shrike, Eurasian Jay, Eurasian Skylark, European Stonechat, Fieldfare and Mistle Thrush.
Moving on, we spent three nights based at Desag which enabled us to visit the Bicaz Gorge, Liben Forest and Mt. Hargita - all varied habitats and each with its own special birds. Just some of the highlights while based here were 3 Western Capercaillie (2 walking right on the road), Eurasian Pygmy-Owl (close and perched in the open), Alpine Swift, Coal, Crested, Marsh and Willow tits, Wallcreeper (wonderful looks this year), White-throated Dipper, Goldcrest, Firecrest, European Robin, Gray Wagtail, Tree Pipit, Eurasian Bullfinch, Red Crossbill and Eurasian Siskin. And, for those who went to the nearby bear hide, 2 Brown Bears.
Continuing further west, we made stops in a nearby village to see the traditionally carved Szekler Gates, and then in a city park where we enjoyed European Scops-Owl, Syrian Woodpecker, Eurasian Nuthatch, striking male Collared Flycatchers and European Serin. Our journey west took us through many traditional villages and the rich farmlands of Transylvania, finally arriving in the late afternoon for a two night stay at our charming hotel in Coltesti. The main birding here was around the local farms where they still practice strip farming and often plough with horses. Birding highlights included Golden Eagle (for some), European Bee-eater, Peregrine Falcon, Red-backed Shrike, Woodlark, Eurasian Crag-Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Greater Whitethroat, and European Greenfinch.
The final four nights of our tour were in Hungary, where we began in the east at the Foldes Wetland, passed through Hortobagy, and then headed west to Kiskunsag - an extensive area of grassland, controlled farmland, marshes, woodland and heath, all near to Budapest. Birding across this region was great, as we not only added new species, but also had repeated chances to refresh our memories or catch up on anything we may have missed earlier. Our most memorable birds here were large numbers of waterbirds at Foldes, 2 Common Quail flushed from a grassy field, 4 or 5 Imperial Eagles (with great views of a close low bird in flight), displaying Great Bustards, Eurasian Thick-knee, Mediterranean Gull, Long-eared Owl, Eurasian Nightjar, more flocks of European Bee-eaters and Rollers, Lesser and Middle spotted woodpeckers, 2 Black Woodpeckers (flying right over our heads), a breeding colony of Red-footed Falcons, Lesser Gray Shrike, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Long-tailed Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper, Eurasian River Warbler (just great looks at this normally really shy bird), Barred Warbler, Hawfinch, and Eurasian Linnet.
The tour finished with a farewell lunch near Budapest, and then for those interested, a night in Budapest, followed by another optional city tour.
Our next tour to Hungary and Romania with Terry Stevenson and Lajos Nemeth-Boka runs April 27 to May 13, 2019.
It was wonderful traveling with all of you. Good birding!
--Terry
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
We were quite excited to find a lingering Red-breasted Goose, and to get such wonderful views of it! Here is part of the group, celebrating. Photo by guide Lajos Nemeth-Boka.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
GRAYLAG GOOSE (Anser anser)
RED-BREASTED GOOSE (Branta ruficollis)
MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor)
COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)
GARGANEY (Spatula querquedula)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)
GADWALL (Mareca strepera)
EURASIAN WIGEON (Mareca penelope)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)
RED-CRESTED POCHARD (Netta rufina)
COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)
FERRUGINOUS DUCK (Aythya nyroca)
TUFTED DUCK (Aythya fuligula)
COMMON GOLDENEYE (Bucephala clangula)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
COMMON QUAIL (Coturnix coturnix)
RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus)
GRAY PARTRIDGE (Perdix perdix)
WESTERN CAPERCAILLIE (Tetrao urogallus)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena)
GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)
EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis nigricollis)
Ciconiidae (Storks)
BLACK STORK (Ciconia nigra)
WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
PYGMY CORMORANT (Microcarbo pygmeus)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
GREAT WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus onocrotalus)
DALMATIAN PELICAN (Pelecanus crispus)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GREAT BITTERN (Botaurus stellaris) [*]
LITTLE BITTERN (Ixobrychus minutus)
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus)
EURASIAN SPOONBILL (Platalea leucorodia)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)
LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE (Clanga pomarina)
BOOTED EAGLE (Hieraaetus pennatus)
IMPERIAL EAGLE (Aquila heliaca)
GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos)
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
PALLID HARRIER (Circus macrourus)
MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)
EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)
NORTHERN GOSHAWK (Accipiter gentilis)
WHITE-TAILED EAGLE (Haliaeetus albicilla)
COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)
LONG-LEGGED BUZZARD (Buteo rufinus)
Our "floating hotel" had a very nice dining room where we enjoyed some good dinners and companionship. Photo by guide Lajos Nemeth-Boka.
Otididae (Bustards)
GREAT BUSTARD (Otis tarda)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
EURASIAN THICK-KNEE (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)
Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
EURASIAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus ostralegus)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola)
NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)
KENTISH PLOVER (Charadrius alexandrinus)
COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
BLACK-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa limosa)
RUFF (Calidris pugnax)
CURLEW SANDPIPER (Calidris ferruginea)
TEMMINCK'S STINT (Calidris temminckii)
SANDERLING (Calidris alba)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago)
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
GREEN SANDPIPER (Tringa ochropus)
SPOTTED REDSHANK (Tringa erythropus)
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers)
COLLARED PRATINCOLE (Glareola pratincola)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
LITTLE GULL (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)
PALLAS'S GULL (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus)
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (Larus michahellis)
CASPIAN GULL (Larus cachinnans)
CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)
BLACK TERN (Chlidonias niger)
WHITE-WINGED TERN (Chlidonias leucopterus)
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida)
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)
EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
COMMON CUCKOO (Cuculus canorus)
Strigidae (Owls)
EUROPEAN SCOPS-OWL (Otus scops)
EURASIAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium passerinum)
LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)
LONG-EARED OWL (Asio otus)
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
EURASIAN NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus europaeus)
Apodidae (Swifts)
ALPINE SWIFT (Apus melba)
COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus)
While we were on the Danube Delta, we had a smaller vessel that we used to explore the shallower waterways. Photo by guide Lajos Nemeth-Boka.
Upupidae (Hoopoes)
EURASIAN HOOPOE (Upupa epops)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis)
Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)
Coraciidae (Rollers)
EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
LESSER SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos minor)
MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos medius)
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos major)
SYRIAN WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos syriacus)
EURASIAN THREE-TOED WOODPECKER (Picoides tridactylus)
BLACK WOODPECKER (Dryocopus martius)
EURASIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus viridis)
GRAY-HEADED WOODPECKER (Picus canus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
RED-FOOTED FALCON (Falco vespertinus)
MERLIN (Falco columbarius)
EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)
SAKER FALCON (Falco cherrug)
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
Laniidae (Shrikes)
RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)
GREAT GRAY SHRIKE (Lanius excubitor)
LESSER GRAY SHRIKE (Lanius minor)
Oriolidae (Old World Orioles)
EURASIAN GOLDEN ORIOLE (Oriolus oriolus)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)
EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)
EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)
ROOK (Corvus frugilegus)
HOODED CROW (Corvus cornix)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Panuridae (Bearded Reedling)
BEARDED REEDLING (Panurus biarmicus)
Alaudidae (Larks)
GREATER SHORT-TOED LARK (Calandrella brachydactyla)
CALANDRA LARK (Melanocorypha calandra)
WOOD LARK (Lullula arborea)
EURASIAN SKYLARK (Alauda arvensis)
CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
EURASIAN CRAG-MARTIN (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (Cecropis daurica)
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
COAL TIT (Periparus ater)
CRESTED TIT (Lophophanes cristatus)
SOMBRE TIT (Poecile lugubris)
MARSH TIT (Poecile palustris)
WILLOW TIT (Poecile montanus)
EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)
GREAT TIT (Parus major)
Remizidae (Penduline-Tits)
EURASIAN PENDULINE-TIT (Remiz pendulinus)
Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea)
Tichodromidae (Wallcreeper)
WALLCREEPER (Tichodroma muraria)
Here is a close-up of guide Terry Stevenson and the group as we birded in the Danube Delta. Photo by guide Lajos Nemeth-Boka.
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)
Cinclidae (Dippers)
WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)
FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)
WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus) [*]
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
Acrocephalidae (Reed Warblers and Allies)
SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
EURASIAN REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
GREAT REED WARBLER (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
Locustellidae (Grassbirds and Allies)
EURASIAN RIVER WARBLER (Locustella fluviatilis)
SAVI'S WARBLER (Locustella luscinioides)
Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers)
EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
GARDEN WARBLER (Sylvia borin)
BARRED WARBLER (Sylvia nisoria)
LESSER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia curruca)
GREATER WHITETHROAT (Sylvia communis)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata)
EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)
COMMON NIGHTINGALE (Luscinia megarhynchos)
RED-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula parva)
EUROPEAN PIED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula hypoleuca)
COLLARED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula albicollis)
COMMON REDSTART (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)
WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra)
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola)
NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)
PIED WHEATEAR (Oenanthe pleschanka)
ISABELLINE WHEATEAR (Oenanthe isabellina)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)
FIELDFARE (Turdus pilaris)
MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla flava)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba)
TAWNY PIPIT (Anthus campestris)
RED-THROATED PIPIT (Anthus cervinus)
WATER PIPIT (Anthus spinoletta)
Emberizidae (Old World Buntings)
YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella)
ROCK BUNTING (Emberiza cia)
ORTOLAN BUNTING (Emberiza hortulana)
REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus)
CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)
HAWFINCH (Coccothraustes coccothraustes)
EURASIAN BULLFINCH (Pyrrhula pyrrhula)
EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris)
EURASIAN LINNET (Linaria cannabina)
RED CROSSBILL (Loxia curvirostra)
EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)
EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)
EURASIAN SISKIN (Spinus spinus)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
SPANISH SPARROW (Passer hispaniolensis)
EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)
Finally, here we are, tired and happy, with 209 birds on our lists! Photo contributed by guide Lajos Nemeth-Boka.
EUROPEAN BROWN HARE (Lepus europaeus)
EUROPEAN SOUSLIK (Spermophilus citellus)
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
BROWN (INCL. GRIZZLY) BEAR (Ursus arctos)
WILD BOAR (Sus scrofa)
RED DEER (Cervus elaphus)
ROE DEER (Capreolus capreolus)
Totals for the tour: 209 bird taxa and 7 mammal taxa