A Field Guides Birding Tours Report

Brazil's Rio Roosevelt: Birding the River of Doubt 2024

June 15-30, 2024 with Bret Whitney guiding

The Rio Madeira was a good 4 meters lower than at the start of our 2023 tour (which was just 5 days earlier). This was due to lack of rain coming down from the Andean massif in Bolivia. As always, the sunset cruise was a relaxing opener to the birding adventures to come, west of the Rio Madeira! Birds and beasts, in order of appearance: Western Striolated-Puffbird (where were they last year?), Brown-banded Puffbird, Undulated Antshrike, Inambari Gnatcatcher, Black-faced Antbird, Hairy-crested Antbird, Sharp-tailed Tyrant, White-rumped Tanager, Black-fronted Nunbirds (with food-begging young audible), and Red-necked Aracari. Video by Bret Whitney.

2024 marked Field Guides’s 21st year of tours to the fabled “River of Doubt”. It was, as always, a very good tour – but, boy was it dry out there! In sharp contrast to the past two years on the tour (also starting mid-June), there had been no rain in the Porto Velho and Humaitá areas, and none on the Roosevelt, for a month ahead of the tour start date, and not a drop in sight anywhere on the route during the tour. This made for easy access to the several dirt roads we would bird west of the Madeira (some of which had been too muddy on the past two tours), but generally quiet birds and noisy walking on trails covered with crunchy leaves fallen from a wide diversity of forest canopy tree species. Still, we managed to dig up most of our principal target birds (several newly described species, and Madeira-Tapajós endemics), and our congenial group had a good time.

I met the two flights into Porto Velho (from Brasília and São Paulo), which arrived at around 02:00. This ridiculous hour of arrival was dictated by the fact that the airstrip was still under reconstruction – the same work that had started just before the 2023 Rio Roosevelt tour. It was opened only briefly for a few hours, mostly early in the mornings. I had certainly expected the repairs to have been finished long ago, with flight schedules having returned to normal, good connections in and out, but that was not the case. They are now saying the work will be completed and flight schedules returning to normal “in about a month” (= maybe August 2024). Fingers crossed for that to happen ASAP! Anyway, everyone made it into Port Velho on those red-eyes in good spirits, and we checked into our comfortable hotel in town for some much-needed rest. We got together for a scrumptious churrascaria lunch, and later that afternoon, we did the traditional Rio Madeira sunset cruise on a typical Amazon riverboat. This is a nice way to start the birding. We spotted several Tucuxi (Gray River Dolphins, which seem to be moving in around Porto Velho, but no Amazon (Pink) River Dolphins), and also spotted a couple of Nacunda Nighthawks and several impressively large Bulldog Fishing Bats at dusk. At dinner, I introduced everyone to caipirinhas (some were old hands), and Tambaqui (a vegetarian member of the Piranha family) grilled to perfection.

We got an early start to our first morning of birding, crossing the Rio Madeira to the west side to bird several narrow, dirt sideroads off the BR-319 highway en route to the old Amazonian town of Humaitá. As I was setting up a tailgate picnic breakfast, the first bird of the morning offered a distant but very welcome song -- a Bar-bellied Woodcreeper! With the Southern Cross still sparkling brightly overhead, it wasn’t light enough to see much, and I urged everyone to drink up and scarf down because “good things are going to start happening fast.” And that was right on! Birds started singing on all sides, including Black-banded, Amazonian Barred, Inambari, Olivaceous, and Plain-brown woodcreepers, and, as the first rays of the sun hit the treetops, we saw the pair of Bar-bellieds well. We tallied 12 species of woodcreepers by the end of the day (7 of them seen), which I think is an all-time, on-tour record for me! Several Curl-crested Aracaris came into the same tree as the Bar-bellied Woodcreeper, followed a few minutes later by 6 gorgeous Blue-and-yellow Macaws that flew in to land quite close, and seemed fascinated by our presence. A few steps down the road, we got the scope on Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, White-browed Purpletufts, Bonaparte’s Parakeets, a Western Striolated-Puffbird, then a pair of Brown-banded Puffbirds! Red-chested Mustached Tamarins and Saddleback Tamarins were there as well. With patience and excellent group behavior, we managed brief but good views of a skulking male Undulated Antshrike. However, this same bamboo thicket, where we had had a great experience with Manu and Black antbirds on last year’s tour, was devoid of them this time around, perhaps because a large swath of road-edge forest bordering the bamboo had been cut in the past few months, allowing lots more sunlight into the undergrowth. When we left there about 09:15, Dan declared that we had walked about 300 feet since breakfast! Other stops that day were hot and quiet, but we picked up Inambari Gnatcatcher for the first time on the tour in several years, and had an excellent look at a pair of Black-bellied Cuckoos, Citron-bellied Attila, and a Dotted Tanager. No sign anywhere of Azure-naped (Campina) Jay, including a spot where I had found a group of at least 15 with 3 juveniles two days earlier (we dipped on it this year). The harshly dry conditions also occasioned a miss on Ocellated Crake, which was barely even heard this year (they are abundant in the ever-shrinking campos of Humaitá)! We also barely heard Russet-crowned Crake, but did pull out a pair of Azure Gallinules. On the other side of the ledger, Long-tailed Ground-Dove was more vocal than usual, and we saw this elegant little dove quite well. Roadside grasses with lots of seed attracted a bunch of “Ibera” Seedeaters, all in scraggly eclipse plumage. A pair of Sharp-tailed Tyrants showed up beautifully, but there were zero Black-masked Finches, or even Wedge-tailed Grass-Finches(!) in evidence.

We again diverted a day from Humaitá to go for Rondonia Bushbird at Jaci-paraná. I knew it would be tough, as the bird had been seen just a couple of times over the past three months, and only farther into the bamboo thicket than we’d ever managed to go. The 20-minute boat ride to the bamboo area was birdy, as always, and we made it into the bamboo fairly early on a nice, sunny morning. Try as we might, we had not a peep or crackle out of the bushbird, but did enjoy a very nice view of a Banded Antbird.

Next day, at a small, family-run lodge on the east (right) bank of the Madeira below Porto Velho, we birded a trail in várzea (seasonally flooded, whitewater ) forest. Things got underway with a close, cooperative Long-billed Woodcreeper, followed by a fine view of Slate-colored Hawk, then Gilded Barbet, and just a bit later, Striped, Straight-billed, and Zimmer’s woodcreepers provided ideal back-to-back comparisons. Red-necked Aracaris put on quite a show, apparently “anting” (rubbing the formic acid of "lemon ants" through their feathers to help rid themselves of feather lice) only about 15 feet above ground, and Amazonian Antshrike and Leaden Antwren also showed well. Some terra firme birding produced excellent views of Rondonia Warbling-Antbird and Sclater’s Antwren. An owling walk near the lodge produced a nice Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl, but the Great Potoo that has in recent years frequented the light posts to capture moths was not around. On 22 June, we had to make it to the Porto Velho airport by 07:00 to board our charter flight to the Rio Roosevelt, as the airstrip would be closed at 07:30. We barely made it, taking off at 07:25, yee-haww!

The flight to the Pousada Rio Roosevelt was calm under sunny skies, and we enjoyed seeing the Rio Madeira soon after takeoff, then vast expanses of undisturbed habitat (except for the scars of an active gold-mining operation) along the latter half of the flight. As usual, we were in a 9-passenger Cessna Caravan, with the (clean!) windows up over the wings so every seat is a great seat. Our pilots were Carlinhos (40 years of experience flying around Amazonia), and Joyce (in training, but she's been with us the past three years and is pretty much ready to take over the Captain position). They gave us two generously wide swings around the pousada and rivers, giving both sides of the plane thrilling views of this remote area. On the ground, our crew was there to greet us with a cooler of cold drinks, as always, and after going down to view the Rio Roosevelt and the head of Santa Rita rapids, we walked to the Pousada along the original portage path the Roosevelt-Rondon Expedition of 1914 had opened to get around the rapids. Nowadays, the pousada keeps the path wide and swept clean of leaves, and they have added a couple of nice spans of boardwalk. By late morning we had moved into our cabañas (they had already turned on the AC, which was nice!), then assembled for lunch in the dining room. We were happy to find that the Starlink internet service installed last year was now even better, staying on most of time we were around the central buildings, from breakfast until about 9:30 pm. Folks reported that the two or three closest cabañas often got a decent signal as well. Buffet-style meals, including early (usually 05:00) breakfasts, were always right on time, bar service was immediate, and desserts magically appeared just before we finished the meal, simple but yummy mousses. Several different species of local fishes, caught in the morning, were served at lunch and dinner, along with another main course of beef, chicken, or pork. Laundry was available for us every day, and was always back, neatly folded, the same afternoon on this warm, sunny tour. The only significant drawback at the pousada is the loud 24/7 diesel generator; I sure wish they would make the investment to use Santa Rita rapids, only about 500 meters away, to generate year-round hydroelectric power. (I mention this to them every year haha).

We were able to make almost all boat trips to trailheads in two boats; one day where we went through shallower rapids required three boats to lighten the loads. This shallower rapids was downriver near the clay lick, which turned out to be bone-dry with hardly a bird or mammal around, although Cathy did spot a Red-throated Piping-Guan catching some early morning sun overhead. The hundreds of deer, peccary, and tapir tracks looked to be more than a month old. So, we left there 30 minutes after arrival to bird another trail nearer the pousada, on the left bank. This and all other trails we routinely bird up and downriver required a steep climb up steps cut into the riverbank, with very helpful handrails (our boatmen prepared all of that in the week ahead of our arrival). The trails were all in excellent condition, and easy to walk.

Birding the Roosevelt this year was “challenging”, shall we say. It was so thoroughly dry that nearly *every living thing* was quiet and hiding from the sun. Except, that is, for the blackflies, sweat bees (most but not all, stingless), and a light presence of deer flies -- and lots of Morpho and Caligo butterflies feeding on rotting fruit dropped out of the canopy and other, smaller species (mostly sulphurs and Julias with some daggerwings and Malachites) concentrated along the river where capybaras or other animals had peed. Barb managed to find a decent selection of dragonflies as well. A high percentage of canopy trees was leafless, which occasionally played in our favor. The first hour or so of mornings was fairly productive for birding, and most of the best birds of the tour came during those periods. Mixed-species flocks were scarily quiet, but we found some good ones in both the canopy and understory. We spent our first afternoon on the subcanopy tower and hit a homer with a female Crimson Fruitcrow that flew in to land not 30 feet from us, near eye-level! It slowly hopped around in that tree for about 10 minutes, not foraging but spending a lot of time staring back at us, and I felt pretty sure it had a nest there or perhaps in the tree supporting the tower, where we were, but we had no actual evidence of it (nor on our final morning atop the tower).

Our first owling night was a beauty. The full moon rose at 19:40, just before we took off in the boats upriver. Perfect. We started with Common and Great potoos within sight of each other on the river bank (cool comparison!), then saw an Azara’s Night Monkey and a Kinkajou in a fruiting fig tree we had found during the day. I stopped the boats in the middle of the river to cast out recordings of Nocturnal Curassow, but got no response. Walking back into the forest, I found a Gray Tinamou on its night roost (with the thermal scope) and some kind of large, arboreal rat with a rather short, slightly bushy black tail well back in the terra firme (also thermal scope, did not look familiar to me, maybe Isothrix?). When I did some playback for Rufous Potoo, we got a distant response, so Alfinete and I chopped into the forest, leaving the group to wait on the trail with our other guide, Glayson. It took us about 20 minutes, but we found the bird, which appeared to be on a nest stub. Alfinete went back to get the group, and everyone enjoyed very close views of a gorgeous Rufous Potoo! Stephen had decided not to go with us, so I took him back during the afternoon siesta the next day. Sure enough, the bird was there, so that is definitely a nest stub (I made some nice video, night and day). On the owling walk, I stopped every couple of hundred yards to whistle the song of White-winged Potoo. About halfway back to the river, we got a response (a few quiet single-note calls only), and luckily, there was just enough of a hole in the understory for me to pick up its eyeshine high in a tree, and everyone got a fine scope view. That was potoo #4 in less than 2 hours! I tried hard to drum up a Long-tailed, to round it out at 5, but no luck that night, or on a couple of other nocturnal forays later in the week (it is definitely present in the area, but I’ve heard it only a couple of times over the years).

Among additional great sightings on the Roosevelt were several Red-throated Piping-Guans, a couple of regal Razor-billed Curassows, Dark-winged Trumpeter (only Chuck saw them on the main trail, as he had walked back to the pousada ahead of the rest of us; we did hear them but couldn’t get them to show), Rufous-necked Puffbird, Eastern Striolated-Puffbird, Gould’s Toucanet, Black-girdled Barbet, Red-necked Woodpecker, Ihering’s Antwren, Aripuana Antwren, Rio Madeira (Roosevelt) Stipplethroat, Manicore and Spix’s warbling-antbirds, Rufous-faced Antbird, White-breasted Antbird (although no army ants the whole week!), Black-breasted Gnateater (recent split from Chestnut-belted, but that ain’t the last word), Uniform Woodcreeper, Hoffmann’s Woodcreeper, Tapajos Scythebill, Rufous-tailed Xenops, an unusually cooperative Ruddy Spinetail, a very close Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo from the tower, Klages’s Gnatcatcher (for only our second tour to see both this one and Inambari), Tooth-billed Wren, Yellow-bellied Dacnis, and Rose-breasted Chat (although some didn’t get on this one very well).

There was a fig tree absolutely loaded with fruit by the pousada generator (which noise we had them turn off for an hour or so on a couple of afternoons so we could enjoy the show). Lots of birds paraded in and out of that tree, almost all common species, but it made for fun, repeated viewing on a couple of afternoons. Red-necked Aracaris, Pompadour Cotinga, and Bare-necked Fruitcrow were among the showier, larger birds, among many more tanagers and honeycreepers. At one point, there were about 20 Golden-winged and 10 Santarem parakeets up there!

Mammals were generally scarce this time around, but we did have a good view of Neotropical Pygmy Squirrel (thanks, Cathy!), and saw both Prince Bernard’s Titi Monkey on the left bank of the Roosevelt, and the unnamed titi on the right bank. “White-bellied” Spider Monkeys showed well a couple of times, and Stephen got to see a single Buffy Saki one day when he stayed back near the boats with one of our guides. Giant Otters put in a couple of brief but exciting appearances. It was also exciting to hear, then see, a large, jaw-popping herd of White-lipped Peccaries on the Rio Madeirinha, which was the first Roosevelt tour encounter since about 2018, I think.

The charter back to Porto Velho on 29 June arrived right on time at about 09:15, as we were walking back to the pousada after our final birding, on the tower. We had a little time for a quick shower and final packing, then the guys moved our luggage up to the airstrip, and we took off at about 10:40. Back in Porto Velho, we had another fine churrascaria lunch, and again checked into our hotel (with normal air schedules, we would depart Porto Velho mid-afternoon). We were expecting to have flights out at 01:45 to 02:30 on the 30th, when the airstrip would be briefly opened. I arranged for our van to pick us up at 11:00 to give us plenty of time to deal with the masses of people on these same red-eye flights – only to learn, after a half-hour at the airport, that the airstrip was again closed and all flights canceled! Yikes, I mean double-yikes! To make a long story short (and less harrowing haha), suffice it to say that, with tour managers Ruth and Ricardo on top of everything, and our liaison at the airport in São Paulo helping folks navigate their (new) connections, everyone was able to make it home fairly easily.

Thanks so much to all of you for a fun tour to these seldom-birded regions of Amazonian Brazil. I hope to see y’all again for another great trip, probably also somewhere in Brazil!

— Bret

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant


Tinamidae (Tinamous)

GRAY TINAMOU (Tinamus tao)

Among the highlights of our first owling trip was finding a Gray Tinamou on its night roost! We also flushed these big birds a couple of times during daytime birding walks.

On a perfect night for "owling", with a full moon over the horizon, we saw 4 species of potoos (two of them documented here), and a Gray Tinamou on its night-roost. Video by Bret Whitney.

GREAT TINAMOU (Tinamus major) [*]

We heard one on our first owling night, and we flushed a couple during the day that weren't really seen (certainly not well enough to identify!).

WHITE-THROATED TINAMOU (Tinamus guttatus) [*]

This is a common tinamou around the Roosevelt, usually heard multiple times on the tour, but this year we heard just one bird sing a couple of times (probably owing to very dry conditions).

CINEREOUS TINAMOU (Crypturellus cinereus) [*]

UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) [*]

VARIEGATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus variegatus) [*]

SMALL-BILLED TINAMOU (Crypturellus parvirostris) [*]

Heard in the campos of Humaitá

Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)

BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)

MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)

BRAZILIAN TEAL (Amazonetta brasiliensis)

Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)

SPECKLED CHACHALACA (Ortalis guttata)

SPIX'S GUAN (Penelope jacquacu)

RED-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cujubi)

Several good sightings along the rivers, and Cathy spotted one in the canopy at the dry clay lick.

RAZOR-BILLED CURASSOW (Mitu tuberosum)

Seen briefly at the river edge a couple of times before we had that truly soul-satisfying view of an adult male foraging along the water line on our early morning boat trip on the Rio Madeirinha.

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)

PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)

SCALED PIGEON (Patagioenas speciosa)

PICAZURO PIGEON (Patagioenas picazuro)

Numbers edging upward in the Porto Velho - Humaitá region; we say maybe 10 on the tour this year.

PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea)

Good view in the fruiting tree behind the pousada.

RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea)

A tape-responsive bird stayed put for scope viewing in the narrow strip of seasonally flooded forest near the pousada.

COMMON GROUND DOVE (Columbina passerina)

PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND DOVE (Columbina minuta)

Numerous in the campos of Humaitá

RUDDY GROUND DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)

BLUE GROUND DOVE (Claravis pretiosa)

LONG-TAILED GROUND DOVE (Uropelia campestris)

Nice views of this elegant little dove near Humaitá

RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon montana)

One came blasting out of the forest, apparently saw our boats out there (Rio Madeirinha), and wheeled around to go right back into the forest!

WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)

GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (Leptotila rufaxilla) [*]

Cuculidae (Cuckoos)

GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira)

In disturbed areas on both sides of the Madeira nowadays

GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major)

SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)

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Gregg Recer got this nice photo of a flock of Guira Cuckoos that greeted us at the airport for our send-off to the Pousada Rio Roosevelt.

STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia) [*]

SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)

BLACK-BELLIED CUCKOO (Piaya melanogaster)

Beautiful views of a pair along a narrow dirt road through forest; they approached up to the forest edge then flew overhead, across the road.

DARK-BILLED CUCKOO (Coccyzus melacoryphus)

Leigh spotted the only one we saw, an austral migrant to this region.

Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)

NACUNDA NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles nacunda)

A couple of these big nighthawks appeared over the Madeira as we returned to the dock on our sunset cruise.

LEAST NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles pusillus)

Fairly good numbers emerged from the campos of Humaitá at dusk.

LESSER NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles acutipennis)

A couple of sightings in the campos

SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis semitorquatus)

This was the bird we spotlighted on its roost high in a tree.

BLACKISH NIGHTJAR (Nyctipolus nigrescens)

We flushed a couple of these attractive nightjars in the campina, one of which allowed very nice views.

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This Blackish Nightjar flushed from nearly underfoot at the campina (we couldn't find a nest, however). Photo by Gregg Recer.

COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)

Constant companions (mostly heard) on evenings and early mornings a the pousada.

SPOT-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis maculicaudus) [*]

LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis climacocerca)

Nice views of males and females on our first owling night

Nyctibiidae (Potoos)

RUFOUS POTOO (Phyllaemulor bracteatus)

One of the trip highlights was finding a Rufous Potoo on its nest during our first owling trip - it was sitting on a nearly vertical stub about 3.5 inches in diameter about 4 meters above ground in the forest understory. Wow, what fantastic looks we had! However, we couldn't be sure this was a nest until the next afternoon, when I took Stephen back to the site (he had not been with us the night before) and, sure enough, the bird was in the exact same position! Check out the video, which includes the strange rocking motion performed by the bird as it mimics an oscillating dead leaf hung up in the understory. The leaf mimicry of Rufous Potoo, which is unique in the family (all the others mimic tree bark or wooden stubs), inspired the new genus name it now bears: Phyllaemulor.

GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis)

One of these big guys was seen well from the boats, and was in view...

COMMON POTOO (Nyctibius griseus)

at the same time as a Common Potoo! Another Common was spotted just a short distance away as well.

WHITE-WINGED POTOO (Nyctibius leucopterus)

Lady luck stayed with us on our first owling night, as I occasionally whistled the song of White-winged Potoo on our walk back to the river edge. A bird responded by giving just a couple of quiet single-note calls, which soon led to excellent scope views.

Apodidae (Swifts)

GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura cinereiventris)

Seen fairly well from the boats a couple of times, mostly over the Rio Madeirinha.

PALE-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura egregia)

Better views of this slightly larger swift with a much contrastier whitish rump.

CHAPMAN'S SWIFT (Chaetura chapmani)

A couple of sightings of this one, which until recently was called Amazonian Swift (before these southern Amazonian birds were relumped with Chapman's)

SHORT-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura brachyura)

FORK-TAILED PALM SWIFT (Tachornis squamata)

Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)

WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora)

NEEDLE-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis philippii)

A couple of nice but brief views of these hermits out of Humaitá

LONG-TAILED HERMIT (Phaethornis superciliosus)

Just one reasonably good view of one on the right bank of the Roosevelt (several others heard squeaking by in flight).

REDDISH HERMIT (Phaethornis ruber)

Fine perched views of these little gems a few times.

BLACK-EARED FAIRY (Heliothryx auritus)

Just a couple of sightings of individuals that responded to recordings of mobbing birds in the canopy

GREEN-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus theresiae)

Seen best in the campos of Humaitá, where one male was busy nectaring at a dense thicket of Heliconia.

BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis)

LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris)

GRAY-BREASTED SABREWING (Campylopterus largipennis)

FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata)

VERSICOLORED EMERALD (RONDONIA) (Chrysuronia versicolor rondoniae)

This was the rather drab little hummer with a reddish lower mandible that we saw perched near the fruiting tree behind the pousada.

RUFOUS-THROATED SAPPHIRE (Hylocharis sapphirina)

Nice views in the campina

WHITE-CHINNED SAPPHIRE (Chlorestes cyanus)

Also in the campina

Opisthocomidae (Hoatzin)

HOATZIN (Opisthocomus hoazin)

Close views from the boats a couple of times along the Roosevelt.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)

PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica)

AZURE GALLINULE (Porphyrio flavirostris)

We managed to drum up a couple of these retiring gallinules near Humaitá just before dusk.

OCELLATED CRAKE (Rufirallus schomburgkii) [*]

Darn, we barely even heard an Ocellated Crake, out in the campos where it is a common bird. The ultra-dry conditions kept them very quiet and unresponsive this time around.

RUSSET-CROWNED CRAKE (Rufirallus viridis) [*]

Ditto that remark for this one, barely even heard.

Psophiidae (Trumpeters)

DARK-WINGED TRUMPETER (Psophia viridis)

Chuck was the only person to see trumpeters this year, as he had gone ahead of us to get back to the pousada, and four birds ran up the trail in front of him. He came back to alert us of their presence, but the best we could do was to get them to call back at us, no luck coaxing them into view.

Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)

PIED PLOVER (Hoploxypterus cayanus)

These handsome birds were daily companions along the Roosevelt.

SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)

Jacanidae (Jacanas)

WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana)

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)

BLACK SKIMMER (INTERCEDENS) (Rynchops niger intercedens)

YELLOW-BILLED TERN (Sternula superciliaris)

LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex)

Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)

SUNBITTERN (Eurypyga helias)

Seen well a few times, once especially nicely as it foraged along the river edge near our boats. We also got to see the amazing wing pattern briefly a couple of times.

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Sunbitterns were realtively easy to see this trip, because of the low water levels. Gregg Recer made this great shot of one member of a singing pair.
Ciconiidae (Storks)

WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana)

More than usual this very dry year, birds that had moved up from the Pantanal

Anhingidae (Anhingas)

ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Nannopterum brasilianum)

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)

RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum)

The one Gregg spotted for us, in a ditch in the campos of Humaitá, provided our best view.

CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus)

Seen most days along the Roosevelt; gorgeous birds.

SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)

STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)

WESTERN CATTLE EGRET (Bulbulcus ibis)

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)

COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi)

Our early-morning charter flight to the Pousada Rio Roosevelt was wonderful, and properly exciting! What a remote place, very much the same as it was when Rondon and Roosevelt paddled through in April, 1914. Video by Bret Whitney.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)

GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)

Seen well, but fewer than usual this year.

Cathartidae (New World Vultures)

BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)

TURKEY VULTURE (TROPICAL) (Cathartes aura ruficollis)

LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus)

GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes melambrotus)

Pandionidae (Osprey)

OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)

Just one bird, I believe, seen along the Roosevelt on a couple of days.

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)

SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)

BLACK HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus tyrannus)

Great view of a soaring adult over the Madeirinha

CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens)

SLATE-COLORED HAWK (Buteogallus schistaceus)

Barb spotted an adult bird hiding in a dense treetop on our morning boat trip near Porto Velho; it allowed a great view before taking off.

SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis)

Just one along the highway near Humaitá.

GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga)

Several close views along the rivers

ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)

WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus)

Seen a couple of times over the campos

GRAY-LINED HAWK (Buteo nitidus)

SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus)

We were at the lunch table when Leigh spotted a light-morph adult bird soaring high with Black Vultures.

Tytonidae (Barn-Owls)

BARN OWL (Tyto alba)

One flew over our hotel parking lot in Jaci-parana

Strigidae (Owls)

TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba) [*]

TAWNY-BELLIED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops watsonii)

A nice view of this somewhat elusive screech-owl, thanks to the thermal imaging scope!

SPECTACLED OWL (Pulsatrix perspicillata) [*]

AMAZONIAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium hardyi)

Nice scope views on our first morning out of Porto Velho.

FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum)

BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia)

Trogonidae (Trogons)

BLACK-TAILED TROGON (Trogon melanurus)

Adult males seen and heard well a couple of times.

GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis)

AMAZONIAN TROGON (Trogon ramonianus)

Just one good view, on our first morning.

BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui)

Seen nicely a couple of times.

COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris)

Momotidae (Motmots)

AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota)

RUFOUS MOTMOT (Baryphthengus martii) [*]

BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum)

It took us a while, but we eventually maneuvered a bird into a spot where we could train the scope on it (near Humaitá).

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)

AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)

GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)

I'll just comment here that we saw few smaller kingfishers -- just one American Pygmy that only I managed to see shooting by, and no Green-and-rufous despite a good amount of searching for both species. I guess they were concentrated back inside the forest at remnant pools of water.

Bucconidae (Puffbirds)

WHITE-NECKED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus hyperrhynchus hyperrhynchus) [*]

BROWN-BANDED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus ordii)

Great scope study on our first morning afield.

PIED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus tectus)

SPOTTED PUFFBIRD (Bucco tamatia) [*]

We had them singing fairly close by in the campina, but I couldn't get a bird to make that last bit of an approach, into view.

COLLARED PUFFBIRD (Bucco capensis) [*]

Sort of the same problem with Collard Puffbird -- calling consistently on two mornings, but refusing to move.

WESTERN STRIOLATED-PUFFBIRD (Nystalus obamai)

We did much better with this one, also on our first morning afield.

EASTERN STRIOLATED-PUFFBIRD (Nystalus striolatus)

This bird can be tough to get, but our efforts paid off with a good scope view this year.

RUFOUS-NECKED PUFFBIRD (Malacoptila rufa)

It was most welcome to hear an unsolicited song from this handsome, understory puffbird, and it didn't take long to coax it into view.

RUSTY-BREASTED NUNLET (Nonnula rubecula) [*]

Just one song, heard right at dusk. A nest I found (tunnel into the ground with a couple of leaves placed to disguise the entrance) probably pertained to this species, but no sign of it being active.

BLACK-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa nigrifrons)

I was able to make a little video of an active nest of this common, river-edge puffbird at the pousada - check out the weird little chicks that crawl forward to be fed by the adult.

WHITE-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa morphoeus)

SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)

Galbulidae (Jacamars)

BLUE-CHEEKED JACAMAR (Galbula cyanicollis)

Excellent scope views of this one.

RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda)

Several good sightings

BLUISH-FRONTED JACAMAR (Galbula cyanescens)

Fine scope studies on our first morning out of Porto Velho.

BRONZY JACAMAR (Galbula leucogastra)

Seen well in the scrubbier, "campinarana" type woodland we birded on our first day, west of the Madeira.

PARADISE JACAMAR (Galbula dea)

A couple of nice sightings of these elegant birds.

GREAT JACAMAR (Jacamerops aureus)

It was tricky, but most of us eventually managed to get something of a view of a male that refused to stay put.

Capitonidae (New World Barbets)

BLACK-GIRDLED BARBET (Capito dayi)

Quiet and not seen much, but I think everyone eventually caught up with this one.

GILDED BARBET (Capito auratus)

Good views of a male out of Humaitá.

Ramphastidae (Toucans)

CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis)

CURL-CRESTED ARACARI (Pteroglossus beauharnaisii)

RED-NECKED ARACARI (Pteroglossus bitorquatus)

Outstanding views of these fancy aracaris, a couple of times.

GOULD'S TOUCANET (Selenidera gouldii)

A couple of good views this year

WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus)

CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos vitellinus)

Remarkably scarce this year, even by voice

Picidae (Woodpeckers)

BAR-BREASTED PICULET (Picumnus aurifrons)

Seen on both sides of the Madeira, probably subspecies aurifrons on the right (east) bank, and purusianus on the left (west) bank.

YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus)

RED-STAINED WOODPECKER (Dryobates affinis)

RED-NECKED WOODPECKER (Campephilus rubricollis)

Several folks had good views on a couple of days, but I think everyone caught up with at least one nice view.

RINGED WOODPECKER (Celeus torquatus) [*]

A distant bird refused to budge (heard just once!)

WAVED WOODPECKER (SCALE-BREASTED) (Celeus undatus subcervinus)

All of the birds we saw were formerly called Scale-breasted Woodpecker (and the subspecies is, I believe, subcervinus).

YELLOW-THROATED WOODPECKER (Piculus flavigula)

Remarkably quiet, one good view

GOLDEN-GREEN WOODPECKER (Piculus chrysochloros)

A bit more vocal, but seen just once or twice

SPOT-BREASTED WOODPECKER (Colaptes punctigula)

Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)

CRESTED CARACARA (SOUTHERN) (Caracara plancus plancus)

RED-THROATED CARACARA (Ibycter americanus)

YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Daptrius chimachima)

BLACK CARACARA (Daptrius ater)

AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)

APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis)

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Aplomado Falcon is becoming harder to find in the campos of Humaitá as the grassland is increasingly converted to soybeans and rice. We found this one catching dragonflies. Photo Gregg Recer.

BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)

Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)

SCARLET-SHOULDERED PARROTLET (Touit huetii)

One tight flock of six screamed over the tower on our morning visit, late in the tour.

GOLDEN-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chrysoptera)

This was THE trip for Golden-winged Parakeets, as there were hundreds around. We had a great look at a fly-by flock in perfect light just a few minutes after getting off the charter plane at the Rio Roosevelt, and the number only went up from there.

ORANGE-CHEEKED PARROT (Pyrilia barrabandi) [*]

Wow, remarkably scarce, heard just a couple of times

BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus)

Numbers were also remarkably low, most days totaling under 30 birds.

SHORT-TAILED PARROT (Graydidascalus brachyurus)

YELLOW-CROWNED PARROT (Amazona ochrocephala)

MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa)

KAWALL'S PARROT (Amazona kawalli)

Barely encountered this trip, with a couple of pairs seen in flight near the dry clay lick one morning, and a couple of others heard.

ORANGE-WINGED PARROT (Amazona amazonica)

WHITE-BELLIED PARROT (GREEN-THIGHED) (Pionites leucogaster leucogaster)

CRIMSON-BELLIED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura perlata)

A group of three shot past the tower on our morning visit, the only time we saw or heard it on the tour!

SANTAREM PARAKEET (MADEIRA) (Pyrrhura amazonum snethlageae)

Good numbers around the pousada, but mostly seen in flight; some of the best perched views were at the fruiting tree behind the pousada.

BONAPARTE'S PARAKEET (Pyrrhura lucianii)

Nice scope views on our first morning out of Porto Velho.

PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEET (Eupsittula aurea)

Fairly common in the campos of Humaitá

DUSKY-HEADED PARAKEET (Aratinga weddellii)

RED-BELLIED MACAW (Orthopsittaca manilatus)

BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna)

The flock of 6 that came in to perch above our picnic breakfast the first day out of Porto Velho really showed off for us!

CHESTNUT-FRONTED MACAW (Ara severus)

SCARLET MACAW (Ara macao)

Low numbers (2-6 per day) around the Roosevelt

RED-AND-GREEN MACAW (Ara chloropterus)

One group of 5, very far away, was seen from the tower on our morning visit; no others were even heard.

WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Psittacara leucophthalmus)

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Two of the six Blue-and-Yellow Macaws that paused to watch us as we had our picnic breakfast on our first morning afield, on the west side of the Madeira. Photo by Gregg Recer.
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)

FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE (Cymbilaimus lineatus)

Excellent views a couple of times.

UNDULATED ANTSHRIKE (Frederickena unduliger)

With patience, all of us managed to get on an adult male that sneaked in from dense bamboo

GLOSSY ANTSHRIKE (Sakesphorus luctuosus) [*]

Really quiet and unresponsive (strangely so)

BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus)

CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus palliatus)

PLAIN-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus schistaceus)

MOUSE-COLORED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus murinus) [*]

NATTERER'S SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus stictocephalus) [*]

WHITE-SHOULDERED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus aethiops)

We found a nest with two eggs on the left bank of the Roosevelt.

AMAZONIAN ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus amazonicus)

Good, tail-pumping views of a pair (or two)

PEARLY ANTSHRIKE (Megastictus margaritatus)

Fantastic views of adult males -- twice! This one can be tough to find.

SATURNINE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes saturninus)

CINEREOUS ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes caesius)

PLAIN-THROATED ANTWREN (Isleria hauxwelli)

SPOT-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Pygiptila stellaris)

WHITE-EYED STIPPLETHROAT (Epinecrophylla leucophthalma)

RIO MADEIRA STIPPLETHROAT (Epinecrophylla amazonica) [*]

RIO MADEIRA STIPPLETHROAT (ROOSEVELT) (Epinecrophylla amazonica dentei)

Excellent views on the Roosevelt (left bank)

ORNATE STIPPLETHROAT (Epinecrophylla ornata)

One pair put in a fairly good appearance, but they moved around quickly!

PYGMY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula brachyura)

SCLATER'S ANTWREN (Myrmotherula sclateri)

Seen well at least three times, both sides of the Madeira and Roosevelt

AMAZONIAN STREAKED-ANTWREN (Myrmotherula multostriata)

WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris)

LONG-WINGED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula longipennis)

IHERING'S ANTWREN (Myrmotherula iheringi)

An adult male, seen well, was the only one we encountered.

GRAY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula menetriesii)

LEADEN ANTWREN (Myrmotherula assimilis)

BANDED ANTBIRD (Dichrozona cincta)

A good view of an adult bird on the bushbird trail was probably the highlight of that morning.

PREDICTED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus praedictus)

Good views of a rather stand-offish male near Humaitá

ARIPUANA ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus stotzi)

We had perfect light on this one at the campina on the Rio Madeirinha, one of the first birds we saw after getting out of the boats.

RUSTY-WINGED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus frater) [*]

DOT-WINGED ANTWREN (Microrhopias quixensis)

SOUTHERN WHITE-FRINGED ANTWREN (Formicivora grisea)

RUSTY-BACKED ANTWREN (Formicivora rufa)

Excellent views of a pair near Humaitá

PERUVIAN WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis peruviana)

RONDONIA WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis ochrogyna)

SPIX'S WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis striata implicata)

MANICORE WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis rondoni)

We had fine views of all four species of Hypocnemis (warbling-antbirds) possible on the tour. I named this one in honor of Marechal Cândido Rondon, in 2013.

BLACKISH ANTBIRD (Cercomacroides nigrescens)

GRAY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra cinerascens)

WHITE-BROWED ANTBIRD (Myrmoborus leucophrys)

Fabulous views of this distinctive species.

BLACK-FACED ANTBIRD (Myrmoborus myotherinus)

BLACK-CHINNED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemoides melanopogon)

SILVERED ANTBIRD (Sclateria naevia)

RUFOUS-FACED ANTBIRD (Myrmelastes rufifacies)

By our last morning on the Roosevelt, we all got caught up with this rather retiring antbird.

CHESTNUT-TAILED ANTBIRD (PALLENS) (Sciaphylax hemimelaena pallens) [*]

FERRUGINOUS-BACKED ANTBIRD (Myrmoderus ferrugineus) [*]

A scolding bird refused to show itself.

WHITE-BREASTED ANTBIRD (Rhegmatorhina hoffmannsi)

They were elusive (as is often the case), but I think everyone had at least a brief view on one or the other or our focused attempts.

HAIRY-CRESTED ANTBIRD (Rhegmatorhina melanosticta purusiana)

I think the pair of birds we found near Humaitá probably had a nest nearby.

SPOT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Hylophylax naevius)

DOT-BACKED ANTBIRD (Hylophylax punctulatus)

COMMON SCALE-BACKED ANTBIRD (Willisornis poecilinotus)

We found a recently fledged youngster, interesting to see that!

BLACK-SPOTTED BARE-EYE (Phlegopsis nigromaculata) [*]

Here's a look back at some of our forest hikes, and the subcanopy tower back behind the pousada. In order of appearance: Crimson Fruitcrow (adult female), Neotropical Pygmy-Squirrel, Rufous-necked Puffbird, Ruddy Spinetail, Paca (Chiquinha!), and Sunbittern. Video by Bret Whitney.
Conopophagidae (Gnateaters)

BLACK-BREASTED GNATEATER (Conopophaga snethlageae)

With perseverance, we all had a great look at this handsome bird; recently split from widespread Chestnut-belted Gnateater.

Formicariidae (Antthrushes)

RUFOUS-CAPPED ANTTHRUSH (Formicarius colma) [*]

Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)

OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus)

WHITE-CHINNED WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla merula)

A nice close view -- but only once on the whole trip!

PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)

Gregg got us on one in forest near Humaitá

WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus)

Darned few in evidence

CINNAMON-THROATED WOODCREEPER (Dendrexetastes rufigula)

We saw this one on both sides of the Madeira, distinctive subspecies: devillei on the left (west) bank, and moniliger on the right (east) bank.

LONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Nasica longirostris)

Just one view, but it was properly impressive!

AMAZONIAN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (JURUA) (Dendrocolaptes certhia juruanus)

West of the Madeira

AMAZONIAN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (PLAIN-COLORED) (Dendrocolaptes certhia concolor)

East of the Madeira (Roosevelt and Madeirinha)

BLACK-BANDED WOODCREEPER (PALE-BILLED) (Dendrocolaptes picumnus pallescens) [*]

Unfortunately, this bird had moved out of range while we were busy with the Bar-bellied Woodcreeper.

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Buff-throated Woodcreepers east of the Rio Madeira, often considered a separate species, Dusky-billed Woodcreeper (X. eytoni) are indeed quite different looking from birds west of the Madeira, which have little black in the head or bill. Photo by Gregg Recer.

HOFFMANNS'S WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes hoffmannsi)

Just one encounter, a pair on the Madeirinha

BAR-BELLIED WOODCREEPER (Hylexetastes stresemanni undulatus)

Excellent to get this one, early on our first morning of birding!

UNIFORM WOODCREEPER (Hylexetastes uniformis)

This one replaces Bar-bellied east of the Madeira, and was tricky to see, but we finally got it well on our final morning on the Roosevelt.

STRIPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus obsoletus)

OCELLATED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus ocellatus)

Subspecies perplexus

ELEGANT WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus elegans)

BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (LAFRESNAYE'S) (Xiphorhynchus guttatus dorbignyanus)

The birds we saw west of the Madeira were the Lafresnaye's group, and the subspecies may have been dorbignyianus, or could have been guttatoides; lots more systematics work, with better sampling, is needed.

BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (DUSKY-BILLED) (Xiphorhynchus guttatus eytoni)

These were the birds on the Roosevelt, seen well a could of times (subspecies vicinalis).

STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus)

ZIMMER'S WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex kienerii)

Excellent views in direct comparison with the very similar Straight-billed (and Striped was also seen well, just a few minutes earlier).

TAPAJOS SCYTHEBILL (RONDONIA) (Campylorhamphus probatus probatus)

Just one sighting, but it was a good one.

INAMBARI WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes fatimalimae)

Excellent studies, remarkably low (instead of way up in the canopy).

DUSKY-CAPPED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes fuscicapillus)

This one, east of the Madeira on the Roosevelt, did stay quite high (as usual).

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Inambari Woodcreeper, a member of the "Lineated" Woodcreeper complex, was described new to science only in 2013. We enjoyed an extraordinarily good view of one this year! Photo by Gregg Recer.

SLENDER-BILLED XENOPS (Xenops tenuirostris)

One seen with the mixed-species flock on our last morning of birding.

PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus)

RUFOUS-TAILED XENOPS (Microxenops milleri)

Seen just once, but what a show it put on for us, dramatically descending from the subcanopy to sing loudly only 15 feet overhead.

RUFOUS-RUMPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor erythrocercum)

CHESTNUT-WINGED HOOKBILL (Ancistrops strigilatus)

One fine sighting of a pair with a big mixed-species flock.

CHESTNUT-WINGED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Dendroma erythroptera)

A couple of nice sightings, especially the one on our last morning.

OCHRE-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus ochrolaemus) [*]

CINEREOUS-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis hypospodia)

Excellent views in the brushy campos around Humaitá.

RUDDY SPINETAIL (Synallaxis rutilans)

Wow, this usually quite retiring spinetail sat up and sang repeatedly from a perch in view for all os us -- a rare event, and one especially enjoyed by Stephen, who said it had been a nemesis for him all these years.

Pipridae (Manakins)

DWARF TYRANT-MANAKIN (Tyranneutes stolzmanni)

Good views a couple of times.

BLUE-BACKED MANAKIN (REGINA) (Chiroxiphia pareola regina) [*]

BLACK MANAKIN (Xenopipo atronitens)

One female or immature male seen along a dirt sideroad off the highway up to Humaitá.

BLUE-CAPPED MANAKIN (Lepidothrix coronata) [*]

SNOW-CAPPED MANAKIN (Lepidothrix nattereri) [*]

It was disappointing to miss seeing this one, but it was so dreadfully dry around the Roosevelt that we barely even heard it.

FIERY-CAPPED MANAKIN (Machaeropterus pyrocephalus) [*]

Also much quieter than usual.

RED-HEADED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra rubrocapilla)

A couple of nice sightings of adult males, and also some females, but this species, too, was remarkably quiet.

Field Guides Birding Tours
Barb Williams snapped this shot of us in a typical moment, as we attempted to get a view of something pretty much straight up overhead.
Cotingidae (Cotingas)

BLACK-NECKED RED-COTINGA (Phoenicircus nigricollis)

We had calling birds circle us on a couple of mornings on the Roosevelt, but they were hard to get on, and I think just a couple of us managed to see one, which proved to be an immature male.

CRIMSON FRUITCROW (Haematoderus militaris)

Our afternoon tower visit, on our first day on the Roosevelt, was pretty slow -- until a Crimson Fruitcrow suddenly flew in to land in a tree right next to the tower tree! It was an adult female. It hopped around a little, changing perches about 5 times over 15 minutes. It preformed just a couple of leaf-pecking foraging moves, but spent most of the time sitting still, often looking at us. All of this adds up to a likelihood that the bird wanted to go to its nest, either in the tower tree, or in the one it was in. Whatever the case, it eventually flew away. Our morning visit, near the end of our week on the Roosevelt, added no news, as we didn't see the bird at all. Check out the video clip!

PLUM-THROATED COTINGA (Cotinga maynana)

We were in the boats on the Rio Branco near Jaci-parana (Rondonia) when I spotted an adult male in a difficult spot, and it flew off before we could maneuver for a better view.

SPANGLED COTINGA (Cotinga cayana)

Only one bird seen the whole week on the Roosevelt, spotted by Gregg on our final morning of birding.

SCREAMING PIHA (Lipaugus vociferans)

Pihas were not especially vocal this trip, but we did get to watch one delivering its loud "song".

POMPADOUR COTINGA (Xipholena punicea)

At least two were seen several times in the fruiting fig tree behind the pousada.

BARE-NECKED FRUITCROW (Gymnoderus foetidus)

Only a few around, seen mostly in flight but we also had one visit the fruiting fig tree.

Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)

BLACK-TAILED TITYRA (Tityra cayana)

MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata)

BROWN-WINGED SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis turdina)

One was seen well at the campina woodland.

WHITE-BROWED PURPLETUFT (Iodopleura isabellae)

O good spot by Gregg led to nice scope views of a pair on our first morning of birding.

WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus)

BLACK-CAPPED BECARD (Pachyramphus marginatus)

Oxyruncidae (Sharpbill, Royal Flycatcher, and Allies)

TROPICAL ROYAL FLYCATCHER (Onychorhynchus coronatus) [*]

RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Terenotriccus erythrurus) [*]

Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)

WING-BARRED PIPRITES (Piprites chloris)

GOLDEN-CROWNED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus coronatus) [*]

WHITE-CRESTED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus platyrhynchos) [*]

OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus)

SEPIA-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon amaurocephalus)

SHORT-TAILED PYGMY-TYRANT (Myiornis ecaudatus)

SNETHLAGE'S TODY-TYRANT (SNETHLAGE'S) (Hemitriccus minor minor)

We saw this one on both sides of the Madeira. The left-bank population is unnamed; the right ban is nominate minor.

ZIMMER'S TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus minimus) [*]

Very few even heard this trip.

BUFF-CHEEKED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus senex)

This one kept us on our toes as it darted around us several times, not staying put for more than a few seconds.

SPOTTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum maculatum)

Right off the pousada veranda

YELLOW-BROWED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum)

The pair we spent some time with near Humaitá was probably T. c. neglectum, type locality Sandia in Puno, Peru (the nearest name west of the Madeira).

YELLOW-MARGINED FLATBILL (Tolmomyias assimilis)

Good views on both sides of the Madeira

GRAY-CROWNED FLATBILL (Tolmomyias poliocephalus)

WHITE-LORED TYRANNULET (Ornithion inerme) [*]

SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum)

SUIRIRI FLYCATCHER (Suiriri suiriri burmeisteri)

SHARP-TAILED TYRANT (Culicivora caudacuta)

What a performance from a pair of these elegant little grassland tyrannids -- check out Gregg's photo (and the video clip)!

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Sharp-tailed Tyrant is among the most distinctive members of the Tyrannidae. Photo by Gregg Recer.

YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus)

FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii)

AMAZONIAN ELAENIA (Myiopagis cinerea)

This one results from a split of the former Gray Elaenia; seen best in the canopy tower tree.

PLAIN-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia cristata)

YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)

SMALL-BILLED ELAENIA (Elaenia parvirostris)

LARGE ELAENIA (Elaenia spectabilis) [*]

We heard just one of these austral migrants, in the brushy campos out of Humaitá.

SLENDER-FOOTED TYRANNULET (Zimmerius gracilipes)

EULER'S FLYCATCHER (Lathrotriccus euleri)

SOUTHERN SCRUB-FLYCATCHER (Sublegatus modestus)

Good views of a pair in the campos of Humaitá.

DRAB WATER TYRANT (Ochthornis littoralis)

WHITE-HEADED MARSH TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala)

RUFOUS-TAILED FLATBILL (Ramphotrigon ruficauda)

CINNAMON ATTILA (Attila cinnamomeus) [*]

There was a lot going on while a Cinnamon Attila was vocalizing, and by the time we turned our attention to it, it had moved out of range.

CITRON-BELLIED ATTILA (Attila citriniventris)

Two good encounters with this generally low-density species.

Field Guides Birding Tours
Gregg Recer captured this fabulous shot of a Citron-bellied Attila eating a fruit. I love it!

DULL-CAPPED ATTILA (Attila bolivianus)

BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus)

GRAYISH MOURNER (Rhytipterna simplex)

PALE-BELLIED MOURNER (Rhytipterna immunda)

Out in the campina, at something like 10:00 a.m., it was a surprise to hear the song of a Pale-bellied Mourner! With some patience, we managed to get the scope on a pair of birds; rarely seen in this area.

SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox)

GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)

BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)

RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis)

YELLOW-THROATED FLYCATCHER (Conopias parvus)

Seen especially well on our first morning afield.

STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus)

CROWNED SLATY FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus)

Gregg and Cathy got photos of one of these austral migrant flycatchers.

WHITE-THROATED KINGBIRD (Tyrannus albogularis)

Several seen well around Humaitá this year.

TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)

Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)

RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) [*]

It was hard to believe, but we barely even heard a peppershrike this trip!

GRAY-CHESTED GREENLET (Hylophilus semicinereus)

A couple of nice views of this one.

SLATY-CAPPED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius leucotis)

A bird we called into the tower tree put on a spectacular show --- check out the video!

The Rio Madeirinha campina was super-dry and dead-quite. The highlight there was (thankfully!) a beautiful adult male Aripuana Antwren. We then stopped at a lagoon to catch 4 big Peacock Bass, which our guys cleaned and grilled to perfection for us. A large herd of White-lipped Paccaries was moving through the forest behind at our picnic spot, and we managed some good views of them before our presence was detected and they crashed off into the distance. Video by Bret Whitney.

TAWNY-CROWNED GREENLET (Tunchiornis ochraceiceps)

One seen pretty well by most of us with a mixed-species flock behind the pousada.

DUSKY-CAPPED GREENLET (Pachysylvia hypoxantha) [*]

BUFF-CHEEKED GREENLET (Pachysylvia muscicapina)

Several good views around the Roosevelt.

CHIVI VIREO (MIGRATORY) (Vireo chivi chivi)

Hirundinidae (Swallows)

WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer)

GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)

BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera)

Very few this trip

SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)

WHITE-BANDED SWALLOW (Atticora fasciata)

BLACK-COLLARED SWALLOW (Pygochelidon melanoleuca)

Lots around the Roosevelt, and we saw a pair gathering nest material to add to its nest in rock piles out in the river.

Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)

LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus)

Very few heard, just one seen, rather fleetingly by most of us.

INAMBARI GNATCATCHER (Polioptila attenboroughi)

A wonderful view of this recently described species (2013), in a campinarana woodland in Rondonia (a stop on our drive north to Humaitá).

KLAGES'S GNATCATCHER (Polioptila paraensis)

This is the gnatcatcher with canopy mixed-species flocks east of the Madeira (on the Roosevelt). A good but brief view of a singing bird.

Field Guides Birding Tours
The pair of Pied Plovers that owns the beach at the Pousada Rio Roosevelt has become expert at catching butterflies that congregate at spots where animals have urinated, to get the salts. Photo by Gregg Recer.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)

SCALY-BREASTED WREN (Microcerculus marginatus) [*]

TOOTH-BILLED WREN (Odontorchilus cinereus)

Seen well with a canopy flock on the right bank of the Roosevelt.

HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon)

THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus) [*]

MOUSTACHED WREN (Pheugopedius genibarbis)

BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis)

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)

HAUXWELL'S THRUSH (Turdus hauxwelli)

WHITE-NECKED THRUSH (Turdus albicollis) [*]

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)

GOLDEN-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chrysopasta)

Most of the euphonias, and also tanagers, were seen at the fruiting fig tree behind the pousada -- a great situation for getting good looks at them!

WHITE-VENTED EUPHONIA (Euphonia minuta)

THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA (Euphonia laniirostris)

ORANGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia xanthogaster)

RUFOUS-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia rufiventris)

Passerellidae (New World Sparrows)

GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis)

YELLOW-BROWED SPARROW (Ammodramus aurifrons)

Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)

RED-BREASTED MEADOWLARK (Leistes militaris)

CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus)

OLIVE OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius bifasciatus)

YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela)

SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)

A few along the drives to/from Humaitá

GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus)

Field Guides Birding Tours
Gregg Recer went over to Santa Rita rapids to make this great photo for us.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)

BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER (Myiothlypis fulvicauda) [*]

Just one or two songs, heard at great distance, from atop the tower!

Mitrospingidae (Mitrospingid Tanagers)

RED-BILLED PIED TANAGER (Lamprospiza melanoleuca)

Good views of this unusual, monotypic genus with canopy mixed-species flocks.

Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)

RED-CROWNED ANT-TANAGER (Habia rubica)

ROSE-BREASTED CHAT (Granatellus pelzelni)

Darn, we had a singing adult male around us, but it stayed very high and moved frequently such that a few of us didn't get much of a view.

AMAZONIAN GROSBEAK (Cyanoloxia rothschildii) [*]

Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)

RED-CAPPED CARDINAL (Paroaria gularis)

BLACK-FACED TANAGER (Schistochlamys melanopis)

FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER (Loriotus cristatus)

WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER (Loriotus luctuosus)

FULVOUS-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus surinamus)

WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus)

SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo)

BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)

PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)

DOTTED TANAGER (Ixothraupis varia)

An excellent view of this rather rarely seen tanager, near Humaitá. We even had it briefly in the scope.

MASKED TANAGER (Stilpnia nigrocincta)

TURQUOISE TANAGER (Tangara mexicana)

PARADISE TANAGER (Tangara chilensis)

OPAL-RUMPED TANAGER (Tangara velia)

BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola)

GREEN-AND-GOLD TANAGER (Tangara schrankii)

SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis)

BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata)

YELLOW-BELLIED DACNIS (Dacnis flaviventer)

Seen well several times this trip.

BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana)

PURPLE HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes caeruleus)

Several good views of males and females. Try as I might, I couldn't come up with a Short-billed Honeycreeper this trip; we usually manage to find a pair somewhere on the route.

RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus)

GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza)

YELLOW-BACKED TANAGER (Hemithraupis flavicollis)

The best views I've ever had of a pair that came down to join in the mobbing scene along a sideroad en route to Humaitá.

WHITE-RUMPED TANAGER (Cypsnagra hirundinacea)

A pair gave their usual, fantastic duetting performance in the campos of Humaitá.

Field Guides Birding Tours
And here are those White-rumped Tanagers! Photo by Gregg Recer.

ORANGE-FRONTED YELLOW-FINCH (Sicalis columbiana)

BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)

CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila castaneiventris)

TAWNY-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila hypoxantha)

IBERA SEEDEATER (Sporophila iberaensis)

We found a good concentration of these seedeaters in the campos near Humaitá, but all of them were in "eclipse" (non-breeding) plumage, with heavy molt, so pretty bedraggled-looking.

PLUMBEOUS SEEDEATER (Sporophila plumbea)

BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)

BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus)

SLATE-COLORED GROSBEAK (Saltator grossus)

Good views of a singing bird, with some patience.


MAMMALS

LONG-NOSED BAT (Rhynchonycteris naso)

Just one sighting (we usually see them at least 2-3 times).

LARGE FRUIT-EATING BATS (Artibeus spp.)

GREATER BULLDOG BAT (Noctilio leporinus)

Properly spooky looks at several of these big bats foraging low over the Rio Madeira at dusk, just as they have for many thousands (millions?) of years.

FREE-TAILED BAT SP. (Tadarida sp.)

Any number of small to rather large molossid bats that emerged each evening.

SADDLEBACK TAMARIN (Saguinus fuscicollis)

This and the next species were seen en route and around Humaitá.

RED-CHESTED MUSTACHED TAMARIN (Saguinus labiatus)

COMMON SQUIRREL MONKEY (Saimiri sciureus)

AZARA'S NIGHT MONKEY (Aotus azarae)

Early on our first owling adventure, we got to see one of these nocturnal primates eating figs at the fruiting tree we found on the left bank of the Roosevelt.

DUSKY TITI MONKEY (Callicebus moloch)

The titi we heard near Humaitá were Callicebus dubius. The ones we saw quite well on the right bank of the Madeira below Porto Velho were C. brunneus.

PRINCE BERNARD'S TITI MONKEY (Callicebus bernhardi)

We saw this recently described titi on the left bank of the Roosevelt. The titis on the right bank are an undescribed form (almost certainly to be named at the species level).

RIO TAPAJOS SAKI MONKEY (Pithecia irrorata)

This would be the saki that Stephen got to see with our guide, Glayson, when he stayed back near the boats one day (left bank of Roosevelt).

BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella)

WHITE-BELLIED SPIDER MONKEY (Ateles belzebuth chamek)

NEOTROPICAL PYGMY SQUIRREL (Sciurillus pusillus)

We heard some calls of a pygmy squirrel along the main trail behind the pousada, and later that morning, our guides and Cathy spotted one dart through a tree. Fortunately, it stayed around long enough for everyone to get to see it well, and I even got a fragment of video.

CAPYBARA (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris)

RED-RUMPED AGOUTI (Dasyprocta agouti)

PACA (Cuniculus paca)

"Chiquinha" made a reluctant appearance in the pousada dining room one day after lunch -- it was great to see her!

AMAZON RIVER DOLPHIN (Inia geoffrensis)

TUCUXI (Sotalia fluviatilis)

Several seen well on our sunset cruise on the Rio Madeira.

SOUTH AMERICAN COATI (Nasua nasua)

Gregg spotted one scrambling up a steep riverbank below Porto Velho.

KINKAJOU (Potos flavus)

One was in the fruiting fig tree with the Azara's Night Monkey on our first owling trip on the Roosevelt.

GIANT OTTER (Pteronura brasiliensis)

We saw these iconic animals three times on the Roosevelt, but relatively briefly this year.

COLLARED PECCARY (Tayassu tajacu)

A couple of us saw some run up the trail ahead of us.

WHITE-LIPPED PECCARY (Tayassu pecari)

Seeing - and hearing! - a herd of 40+ of these big forest peccaries was an exciting encounter that coincided with our forest lunch of Peacock Bass. I managed to get a little video, that includes the remarkably loud jaw-popping sound they make when startled.

Here are several bug photos Barb Williams contributed (and identified!), enjoy! The Amber Phantom (Haetera piera) is in the "clearwing" (more accurately, "glasswing") group.


ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Among other critters seen (or evidence of them) were the Little Brown Bats (Myotis nigrescens) we saw coursing over prescribed patches of trail most evenings, fresh Jaguar paw-scrape marks on a couple of trails, Brazilian Tapir tracks (some fresh, most old and dry), the big Black Caiman that floated around the sandy beach at the Pousada Rio Roosevelt, a few large Green Iguanas and several much smaller Amazon Whiptails (Ameiva sp.). And in class by themselves (literally) were the Corvina fish we heard producing their low rumbling sounds just below our boats on the Roosevelt, and, of course, those fine Peacock Bass (tucunaré) we caught and had for lunch one day. We also had brief sightings of a couple of rather large rats I found with the thermal imaging scope: one on the ground (grayish with a whiter belly and lightly haired tail equal to or longer than head + body; and a larger arboreal rat dark brownish overall with a densely haired, slightly bushy black tail roughly the length of the head + body or perhaps a little shorter (tail could have been shortened in an accident or escape from a predator). Barb worked on butterflies and dragonflies along the way, and provided the great photos (above).

Totals for the tour: 415 bird taxa and 24 mammal taxa