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Field Guides Tour Report
REMOTE RIO TAPAJOS, BRAZIL 2017
Sep 30, 2017 to Oct 11, 2017
Bret Whitney


The charter flight from Manaus to the village of Barra de Sao Manoel, at the headwaters of the Tapajos River, marked an exciting start to our first "Remote Rio Tapajos" tour! Video by Bret Whitney.

This was our first run of this tour, which is based entirely at the Ecolodge da Barra, a floating hotel on the far upper Tapajos River, which is a major, south-bank tributary of the Amazon. I had visited the Ecolodge in October, 2014, when I guided a VIP cohort of WWF personnel to several places in the Brazilian Amazon (not a FG trip). I was mightily impressed with the Ecolodge as an amazingly comfortable place to stay in a little-known sector of the Amazon basin, and immediately started planning a 2017 tour there. The owners were very anxious to get birding tourism going (it is 100% sport fishing at the moment), and told me they would be able to install a tower, open lots of terra firme trails, etc., over the next couple of years.

The Ecolodge invited me to go out there in 2015 and 2016 to select a tower location and spots for cutting loop trails. However, by tour-time this year, they did not get a tower built, and the trail system in terra firme forest was not extensive enough to support nine days of birding. So, it leaves much to be desired, some of which can be remedied fairly easily (mainly, opening more and longer trails). Access to seasonally flooded forest and some campinas is, however, very good. They also managed to get us permission to bird on the right bank of the Tapajos, which is all Munduruku Indigenous Territory, generally off-limits to outsiders. Our day over there, with two young Munduruku guides, was really fun and productive for us and for them – I have high hopes of being able to bird another day or two with them in the future.

After a leisurely and very well appointed breakfast at our hotel in Manaus, we made our way to the nearby municipal airport and lifted off on a beautiful, clear morning. Our charter plane was a brand-new Cessna Gran Caravan, the perfect plane for a group of 5-9, the same planes we use for the Rio Roosevelt tour. It has big windows which I always make sure are freshly cleaned, and the wings up over the windows, so all seats are good ones! It also takes a lot of weight, so limits are much more reasonable than on smaller planes. As we left Manaus behind, it was fabulous to look down on the Amazon River, to see the “meeting of the waters”, where the Solimoes (which is the main channel of the Amazon upriver of its confluence with the Rio Negro), and the Rio Negro join to form the Amazonas, which courses east to the Atlantic Ocean. About halfway into the two-hour flight to the village of Barra de Sao Manoel, clouds built up and, by the time we landed, skies were dark and rainy! This made for a dramatic landscape as we swung around to give everyone an overview of the region, and an “exhilarating” landing on the all-dirt (= mud) airstrip, which the pilots flared out with a round of laughter from all. You know, that delicious flavor of laughter that comes with great relief.

We took the truck down to the river, transferred our luggage and ourselves to a speedboat, and 10 minutes later, we were at the Ecolodge. Rain continued through lunch and early afternoon, then let up enough to allow some birding on the island to which the Ecolodge is anchored. It was drippy and dreary in there, but we saw a number of birds well, including the distinctive huberi subspecies of Blackish-gray Antshrike, endemic to the Tapajos. We also found a nest with two eggs of Band-tailed Manakin (the first I’d ever seen!), so this was a fine start to the birding.

We had eight more full days (wow!). Every day started with an early breakfast (04:30 to 05:30) followed by a boat trip of 3 to 60 minutes to reach our birding destination for the morning, with return to the Ecolodge for lunch and 1.5-2 hours of rest, before another birding outing closer to the lodge and return for happy hour and dinner. All drinks were included, even liquor and wine, and the big, communal drink fridges were always stocked and open to help yourself whenever you wanted, plus every room has a mini-fridge that you can stock with whatever you like. The daily rhythm was quite relaxing, and we were done with dinner and off to bed most evenings before 8, allowing for 8+ hours of sleep almost every night. Meals were always on-time and delicious, often featuring three main dishes (always at least one fresh fish) and various sides and salads, with very little repetition through our stay. The rooms are spacious, with good beds and bathrooms. The showers at the Ecolodge just might be the best showers I have ever experienced – perfect, with incredible water volume and pressure, and easy temp control. The staff did laundry every day, returning clothes to the proper rooms the same afternoon, most days, or definitely by the next morning. We had the Ecolodge to ourselves for four days, then had to share with four semi-rowdy Brazilian fishermen for three days, then five more relaxed guys the last couple of days. It was all good.

Unfortunately, the overcast, rainy weather we encountered on arrival hung in for several more days, as it turned out to be a late austral cold front. This made for comfortable temperatures, but birding was slower than usual (very quiet forests). We could, however, thank the frontal conditions for some super-exciting migrant viewing! There were pushes of Snail Kites on 1-4 October involving several hundreds of birds. Movements of Snail Kite in South America are poorly understood, but I’ve seen enough of it that I’m pretty sure they are migrating from marsh/savanna regions of northern South America (llanos, etc.) south to the pantanal and pampas in October, timing arrival to coincide with the start of the rainy season down there. The Tapajos seems to be a migration corridor, and I’ve seen flocks moving over the Teles Pires and Cristalino in Mato Grosso, too. I made some pretty fabulous video of a couple of big flocks on the tour, birds put down by the front. There were also hundreds of Purple Martins huddled up one morning, and lots of White-collared Swifts and at least 6 Great Dusky Swifts (!) overhead that day. Also on the migration subject, there were good numbers of Common Nighthawks feeding at dusk on a couple of days, some showing primary molt. I wish we’d been able to get out on the rivers at dusk more often, to gain an idea of how many birds may have been around, and whether they were still moving, or seemed to be settled in the for the winter. The wintering grounds of the (many!) subspecies of Common Nighthawk are remarkably poorly known (the books will tell you only "South America"). I also thought there may have been some Lessers in with them (which would not be North American birds, I’m sure), and there were quite a few Sand-colored Nighthawks around as well. Exciting stuff!

Highlights were a leisurely study, on three different perches, of an adult, dark-morph Crested Eagle, a close walk-by of a Razor-billed Curassow, almost daily Amazonian Umbrellabirds (no, not because of the rain hahaha), Fiery-capped, Snow-capped, Flame-crowned, and Band-tailed manakins, cooperative Pheasant Cuckoo and Pavonine Quetzal, Natterer’s Striolated-Puffbird (not officially split yet, but hang on for it), Rufous-necked Puffbird 2x, five Celeus woodpeckers, perched Bald Parrot, lots of Kawall’s Parrots, seeing two undescribed species of antbirds (a “Yellow-browed” and a “Pygmy”, both under active study), getting both Common and Xingu Scale-backed Antbirds (never done that on one tour; got Xingu on the right bank of the Tapajos), seeing the undescribed “Chestnut-belted” Gnateater really well, Curve-billed Scythebill, Slender-billed Xenops, a remarkably low, close Zimmer’s Tody-Tyrant, and a very cooperative Musician Wren. One morning, I spotted some distant Dark-winged Trumpeters before they saw us (virtually never happens) and got folks into position to call them up; the birds called back loudly but refused to come in close enough to be seen by the birders. I was disappointed to not be able to do much nightbirding this trip (weather problems), especially because we had a perfect moon and a small, generally gung-ho group. So, no Nocturnal Curassow ☹ but there's always "next time"! Another bummer was arriving at the trailhead into the huge area of bamboo I had worked in 2016 scouting to find that a wide road had been put in there! It really blew me away, a very unwelcome sign of outside encroachment. We had a too-rainy morning there this year (yet still had several good birds, just not the bamboo specialties), so perhaps I'll give it one more chance, next year.

Mammals sightings were headlined by multiple encounters with Common Woolly Monkeys and White-bellied Spiders, one group of White-nosed Bearded Sakis, a sighting of “Dusky” Titi Monkey on the left bank of the Tapajos, Brown Capuchins, and Bare-eared Squirrel Monkeys. We also saw Giant Otter very nicely!

Thank you all for adventuring with me to bird the remote upper Tapajos River. We had a great time, and I tremendously look forward to birding with all of you again, whenever the opportunity presents itself.

Grandes abraços para todos, Bret


KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant


BIRDS
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
GRAY TINAMOU (Tinamus tao) [*]
GREAT TINAMOU (Tinamus major) [*]
WHITE-THROATED TINAMOU (Tinamus guttatus) [*]
CINEREOUS TINAMOU (Crypturellus cinereus) [*]
LITTLE TINAMOU (Crypturellus soui) [*]
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus)
BRAZILIAN TINAMOU (Crypturellus strigulosus) [*]
VARIEGATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus variegatus) [*]

Here are some images from Bret's iPhone that will jog memories of those of you who participated in the tour, and, for those of you wondering what the tour was like, provide some insight into the overall experience. Video by Bret Whitney.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
SPECKLED CHACHALACA (Ortalis guttata)
SPIX'S GUAN (Penelope jacquacu)
RED-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cujubi)
RAZOR-BILLED CURASSOW (Mitu tuberosum)
Odontophoridae (New World Quail)
MARBLED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus gujanensis) [*]
Ciconiidae (Storks)
JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria) – Larry Hood spotted a single bird wheeling across the Juruena one day -- neat!
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum)
COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes melambrotus)
KING VULTURE (Sarcoramphus papa)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
HOOK-BILLED KITE (Chondrohierax uncinatus)
GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis) [*]
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)
CRESTED EAGLE (Morphnus guianensis) – Seeing an adult, dark-morph bird at close range and for several minutes on three different perches, was certainly a mega-highlight of the tour. Check out the video at the end of the bird clips!
BLACK HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus tyrannus) [*]
BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis)
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – The migration we witnessed was absolutely fabulous! I've put together several of the video clips and some of Larry Peavler's photos here.
PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea)
CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens) [*]
GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga)
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)
Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)
SUNBITTERN (Eurypyga helias)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
GRAY-COWLED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus)
RUSSET-CROWNED CRAKE (Anurolimnas viridis) [*]
Heliornithidae (Finfoots)
SUNGREBE (Heliornis fulica)
Psophiidae (Trumpeters)
DARK-WINGED TRUMPETER (GREEN-BACKED) (Psophia viridis viridis) [*]
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus)
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
SOLITARY SANDPIPER (Tringa solitaria)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex)
BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger)

The arrival of a late, austral cold front forced migrating Snail Kites, headed south to the Pantanal and Pampas, to land and wait for the return of calm conditions. It was thrilling to witness this rarely seen migration in action! Video by Bret Whitney.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia)
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)
SCALED PIGEON (Patagioenas speciosa)
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea)
RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea)
COMMON GROUND-DOVE (Columbina passerina)
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)
RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon montana)
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)
GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (Leptotila rufaxilla)
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata) – One on the tarmac in Manaus!
Opisthocomidae (Hoatzin)
HOATZIN (Opisthocomus hoazin)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major)
PHEASANT CUCKOO (Dromococcyx phasianellus)
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)
BLACK-BELLIED CUCKOO (Piaya melanogaster)
Strigidae (Owls)
TAWNY-BELLIED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops watsonii) [*]
AMAZONIAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium hardyi) [*]
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
SAND-COLORED NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles rupestris)
COMMON NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles minor)
SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis semitorquatus)
BAND-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Nyctiprogne leucopyga)
BLACKISH NIGHTJAR (Nyctipolus nigrescens)
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)
LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis climacocerca)
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis)
Apodidae (Swifts)
GREAT DUSKY SWIFT (Cypseloides senex)
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)
AMAZONIAN SWIFT (Chaetura viridipennis)
SHORT-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura brachyura)
BAND-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura spinicaudus)
GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura cinereiventris)
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora)
RUFOUS-BREASTED HERMIT (Glaucis hirsutus)
NEEDLE-BILLED HERMIT (Phaethornis philippii)
STREAK-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis rupurumii)
REDDISH HERMIT (Phaethornis ruber)
BLACK-EARED FAIRY (Heliothryx auritus)
GRAY-BREASTED SABREWING (Campylopterus largipennis) [*]
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata)
GLITTERING-THROATED EMERALD (Amazilia fimbriata) [*]
Trogonidae (Trogons)
PAVONINE QUETZAL (Pharomachrus pavoninus) – A nice sighting early in the tour; this is generally the least-often seen of the five quetzals.
BLACK-TAILED TROGON (Trogon melanurus)
GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis)
AMAZONIAN TROGON (Trogon ramonianus)
BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui)
BLACK-THROATED TROGON (Trogon rufus)
COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris) [*]
Momotidae (Motmots)
AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota)
BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum) [*]
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)
AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle aenea)
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
PIED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus tectus)
SPOTTED PUFFBIRD (Bucco tamatia)
EASTERN STRIOLATED-PUFFBIRD (Nystalus striolatus) – We saw the nominate form, Nystalus striolatus striolatus, which we now know is restricted to the Madeira-Tapajos interfluvium. In 2013, we published a paper justifying the split of Striolated Puffbird into three species, but, oddly, the SACC adopted only the recognition of our newly described N. obamai, and left the rest as one species. This was a ridiculous decision (especially as the committee failed to consider the online supporting data included in our paper), and will eventually be corrected. The English name of the bird we saw, which is the population least-often seen anywhere, is Natterer's Striolated-Puffbird (check out the video here).
RUFOUS-NECKED PUFFBIRD (Malacoptila rufa)
RUSTY-BREASTED NUNLET (Nonnula rubecula) [*]
RUFOUS-CAPPED NUNLET (Nonnula ruficapilla inundata) – This subspecies is rarely seen anywhere (and it took us a good while to get our bin's on them!).
BLACK-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa nigrifrons)
WHITE-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa morphoeus)
SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
BROWN JACAMAR (Brachygalba lugubris melanosterna) – Excellent views of this poorly known bird.
BLUE-CHEEKED JACAMAR (Galbula cyanicollis)
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (SPOT-TAILED) (Galbula ruficauda rufoviridis)
BRONZY JACAMAR (Galbula leucogastra)
PARADISE JACAMAR (Galbula dea)
Capitonidae (New World Barbets)
BLACK-GIRDLED BARBET (Capito dayi) – Thanks to good spotting by Virginia.
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
LETTERED ARACARI (Pteroglossus inscriptus)
CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis)
RED-NECKED ARACARI (Pteroglossus bitorquatus) – Our best views were from the porch of the EcoLodge!
GOULD'S TOUCANET (Selenidera gouldii)
WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus)
CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos vitellinus)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
BAR-BREASTED PICULET (Picumnus aurifrons)
PICULET SP. (Picumnus sp.)
YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus)
RED-STAINED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis affinis)
YELLOW-THROATED WOODPECKER (Piculus flavigula)
GOLDEN-GREEN WOODPECKER (Piculus chrysochloros)
RINGED WOODPECKER (Celeus torquatus)
SCALE-BREASTED WOODPECKER (Celeus grammicus)
CREAM-COLORED WOODPECKER (Celeus flavus)
CHESTNUT WOODPECKER (Celeus elegans)
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)
RED-NECKED WOODPECKER (Campephilus rubricollis) – We had an excellent woodpecker list!
CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
BLACK CARACARA (Daptrius ater)
RED-THROATED CARACARA (Ibycter americanus)
SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus)
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
SCARLET-SHOULDERED PARROTLET (Touit huetii) – We were always under the canopy when we heard them coming over! [*]
GOLDEN-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chrysoptera)
BALD PARROT (Pyrilia aurantiocephala) – Wow! What a great study we had, in perfect light, just as we were landing on the left bank of the Tapajos one morning.
BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus)
KAWALL'S PARROT (Amazona kawalli) – Good numbers around this time.
ORANGE-WINGED PARROT (Amazona amazonica)
WHITE-BELLIED PARROT (Pionites leucogaster)
RED-FAN PARROT (Deroptyus accipitrinus fuscifrons)
RED-BELLIED MACAW (Orthopsittaca manilatus)
BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna)
SCARLET MACAW (Ara macao)
RED-AND-GREEN MACAW (Ara chloropterus)
CHESTNUT-FRONTED MACAW (Ara severus)
WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Psittacara leucophthalmus)

A selection of bird images, for your viewing pleasure! Video by Bret Whitney.
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE (Cymbilaimus lineatus)
GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major) [*]
GLOSSY ANTSHRIKE (Sakesphorus luctuosus)
PLAIN-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus schistaceus)
BLACKISH-GRAY ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus nigrocinereus huberi)
NATTERER'S SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus stictocephalus)
WHITE-SHOULDERED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus aethiops)
AMAZONIAN ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus amazonicus)
SATURNINE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes saturninus)
CINEREOUS ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes caesius)
SPOT-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Pygiptila stellaris)
WHITE-EYED ANTWREN (Epinecrophylla leucophthalma)
ORNATE ANTWREN (Epinecrophylla ornata)
PYGMY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula brachyura)
SCLATER'S ANTWREN (Myrmotherula sclateri)
AMAZONIAN STREAKED-ANTWREN (Myrmotherula multostriata)
WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris)
LONG-WINGED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula longipennis) [*]
IHERING'S ANTWREN (Myrmotherula iheringi) – Only one, but it was a good one! This is the poorly known nominate population.
GRAY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula menetriesii)
RUFOUS-WINGED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus)
DOT-WINGED ANTWREN (Microrhopias quixensis)
WHITE-FRINGED ANTWREN (Formicivora grisea)
SPIX'S WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis striata implicata)
YELLOW-BROWED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis hypoxantha) – We're working on describing birds in this region as a species separate from more widespread Yellow-browed Antbird (check out the video).
BLACKISH ANTBIRD (Cercomacroides nigrescens)
GRAY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra cinerascens)
BLACK-FACED ANTBIRD (Myrmoborus myotherinus)
BLACK-CHINNED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemoides melanopogon)
BAND-TAILED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemoides maculicauda)
SILVERED ANTBIRD (Sclateria naevia)
CHESTNUT-TAILED ANTBIRD (Sciaphylax hemimelaena)
WHITE-BREASTED ANTBIRD (Rhegmatorhina hoffmannsi) – A real bummer that we could not get this one to approach, for the possibility of getting a view. [*]
COMMON SCALE-BACKED ANTBIRD (Willisornis poecilinotus)
XINGU SCALE-BACKED ANTBIRD (Willisornis vidua) – It was really neat to see both of these Willisornis antbirds, one on each side of the Tapajos.
BLACK-SPOTTED BARE-EYE (Phlegopsis nigromaculata) [*]
Conopophagidae (Gnateaters)
[CHESTNUT-BELTED] GNATEATER (Conopophaga [aurita] sp. nov.?) – Another bird we're working on, sure to merit some species-level splitting/descriptions.
Grallariidae (Antpittas)
THRUSH-LIKE ANTPITTA (Myrmothera campanisona) [*]
Formicariidae (Antthrushes)
RUFOUS-CAPPED ANTTHRUSH (Formicarius colma) – A really great view of the first bird we attempted to see.
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (AMAZONIAN) (Sittasomus griseicapillus amazonus)
LONG-TAILED WOODCREEPER (Deconychura longicauda)
WHITE-CHINNED WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla merula olivascens) [*]
LONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Nasica longirostris)
AMAZONIAN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (PLAIN-COLORED) (Dendrocolaptes certhia concolor)
STRIPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus obsoletus)
ELEGANT WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus elegans)
BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (DUSKY-BILLED) (Xiphorhynchus guttatus eytoni)
STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus)
ZIMMER'S WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex kienerii)
CURVE-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (RONDONIA) (Campylorhamphus procurvoides probatus)
RONDONIA WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes fuscicapillus) – Split from what was widespread Lineated Woodcreeper.
SLENDER-BILLED XENOPS (Xenops tenuirostris) – A great view; always a tough one to get.
PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus) [*]
RUFOUS-RUMPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor erythrocercum)
CINNAMON-RUMPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor pyrrhodes) – Also difficult to see; we did pretty well with it this trip. [*]
BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus ochrolaemus) [*]
RUSTY-BACKED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca vulpina)
SPECKLED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca gutturata) [*]
PLAIN-CROWNED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis gujanensis)
RUDDY SPINETAIL (Synallaxis rutilans) [*]
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma obsoletum)
MOUSE-COLORED TYRANNULET (Phaeomyias murina)
YELLOW TYRANNULET (Capsiempis flaveola)
YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus) [*]
FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii)
GRAY ELAENIA (Myiopagis caniceps) [*]
OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus) [*]
SEPIA-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon amaurocephalus) [*]
GUIANAN TYRANNULET (Zimmerius acer) [*]
AMAZONIAN TYRANNULET (Inezia subflava)
SHORT-TAILED PYGMY-TYRANT (Myiornis ecaudatus)
SNETHLAGE'S TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus minor)
WHITE-BELLIED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus griseipectus)
ZIMMER'S TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus minimus) – Truly incomparable views, very close, just above eye-level.
BUFF-CHEEKED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus senex) – Dang it; we should definitely see this bird on this tour (I really think the weather kept them really quiet and unresponsive). [*]
SPOTTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum maculatum)
YELLOW-BROWED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum) – Excellent views.
OLIVACEOUS FLATBILL (Rhynchocyclus olivaceus) [*]
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (RIVERINE) (Tolmomyias sulphurescens insignis)
YELLOW-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (ZIMMER'S) (Tolmomyias assimilis calamae)
GRAY-CROWNED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias poliocephalus) [*]
YELLOW-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flaviventris)
GOLDEN-CROWNED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus coronatus)
RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Terenotriccus erythrurus)
EULER'S FLYCATCHER (Lathrotriccus euleri) [*]
FUSCOUS FLYCATCHER (FUSCOUS) (Cnemotriccus fuscatus fuscatior)
AMAZONIAN BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus poecilocercus) – Great views of a female.
DRAB WATER TYRANT (Ochthornis littoralis)
RUFOUS-TAILED FLATBILL (Ramphotrigon ruficauda)
CINNAMON ATTILA (Attila cinnamomeus)
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus)
GRAYISH MOURNER (Rhytipterna simplex)
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer) [*]
SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox)
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus) [*]
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor)
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis)
DUSKY-CHESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes luteiventris)
STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus)
PIRATIC FLYCATCHER (Legatus leucophaius)
VARIEGATED FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus varius)
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus savana)
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
BLACK-NECKED RED-COTINGA (Phoenicircus nigricollis)
AMAZONIAN UMBRELLABIRD (Cephalopterus ornatus) – Several neat sightings this trip -- would that they would always be so much in evidence!
SPANGLED COTINGA (Cotinga cayana)
SCREAMING PIHA (Lipaugus vociferans)
POMPADOUR COTINGA (Xipholena punicea)
BARE-NECKED FRUITCROW (Gymnoderus foetidus)
Pipridae (Manakins)
DWARF TYRANT-MANAKIN (Tyranneutes stolzmanni)
SNOW-CAPPED MANAKIN (Lepidothrix nattereri) – Seen really well a couple of times.
FLAME-CROWNED MANAKIN (Heterocercus linteatus) – Ditto that remark! What a handsome bird! (I think I enlarged Larry's nice photo, embedded in the video here, a bit too much).
BAND-TAILED MANAKIN (Pipra fasciicauda) – We found a nest with two eggs that hatched a couple of days before we left.
FIERY-CAPPED MANAKIN (Machaeropterus pyrocephalus) – Another manakin seen nicely, early in the tour.
WHITE-CROWNED MANAKIN (Dixiphia pipra)
RED-HEADED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra rubrocapilla)
WING-BARRED PIPRITES (Piprites chloris)
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
BROWN-WINGED SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis turdina)
CINEREOUS MOURNER (Laniocera hypopyrra)
BLACK-CAPPED BECARD (Pachyramphus marginatus) [*]
PINK-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus minor)
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) [*]
GRAY-CHESTED GREENLET (Hylophilus semicinereus)
BUFF-CHEEKED GREENLET (Pachysylvia muscicapina)
RED-EYED VIREO (RESIDENT CHIVI) (Vireo olivaceus solimoensis)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLACK-COLLARED SWALLOW (Pygochelidon melanoleuca)
WHITE-BANDED SWALLOW (Atticora fasciata)
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
PURPLE MARTIN (Progne subis) – Several hundreds of migrants were put down by the frontal/rainy conditions (check out the video).
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)
BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera)
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon) [*]
MOUSTACHED WREN (Pheugopedius genibarbis) [*]
BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis)
MUSICIAN WREN (RONDONIA) (Cyphorhinus arada interpositus) – Good views, with patience.
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus) [*]
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
HAUXWELL'S THRUSH (Turdus hauxwelli)
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CAPPED CARDINAL (Paroaria gularis)
FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus cristatus)
FULVOUS-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus surinamus)
WHITE-LINED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufus)
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo)
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)
DOTTED TANAGER (Ixothraupis varia) – Darn, couldn't get it to move into view from our position on a narrow trail below tall trees. [*]
BLUE-NECKED TANAGER (Tangara cyanicollis) – It was great to see this bird, which is little-known in this region of Amazonia.
TURQUOISE TANAGER (Tangara mexicana)
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola) [*]
SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis)
BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata)
YELLOW-BELLIED DACNIS (Dacnis flaviventer)
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana)
SHORT-BILLED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes nitidus)
PURPLE HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes caeruleus)
RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus)
YELLOW-BACKED TANAGER (Hemithraupis flavicollis)
CHESTNUT-VENTED CONEBILL (Conirostrum speciosum)
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)
LINED SEEDEATER (Sporophila lineola)
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila castaneiventris)
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEED-FINCH (Sporophila angolensis) [*]
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila nigricollis)
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)
BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus) [*]
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens)
SLATE-COLORED GROSBEAK (Saltator grossus)
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
RED-CROWNED ANT-TANAGER (Habia rubica) [*]
ROSE-BREASTED CHAT (Granatellus pelzelni) – Nice views a couple of times.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
RED-BREASTED MEADOWLARK (Sturnella militaris)
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus)
OLIVE OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius bifasciatus)
YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela)
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
PURPLE-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chlorotica)
THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA (Euphonia laniirostris)
RUFOUS-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia rufiventris)

All good things must come to an end, they say... after nearly nine full days in the wilds of the Central Amazon, we had to fly back to Manaus (and, amazingly, on home later this evening!). Video by Bret Whitney.

MAMMALS
LONG-NOSED BAT (Rhynchonycteris naso)
GREATER BULLDOG BAT (Noctilio leporinus)
FREE-TAILED BAT SP. (Tadarida sp.)
BARE-EARED SQUIRREL MONKEY (Saimiri ustus)
DUSKY TITI MONKEY (Callicebus moloch)
WHITE-NOSED BEARDED SAKI MONKEY (Chiropotes albinasus)
BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella)
COMMON WOOLLY MONKEY (Lagothrix lagotricha)
WHITE-BELLIED SPIDER MONKEY (Ateles belzebuth chamek)
CAPYBARA (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris) – Exactly....one. But it was a big one!
GIANT OTTER (Pteronura brasiliensis)


ADDITIONAL COMMENTS


Totals for the tour: 342 bird taxa and 11 mammal taxa