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We covered a lot of ground, and saw many wonderful creatures on this tour. Included in our sightings was this family of Common Ostrich, photographed by participant Cathy Douglas.

Our October 2018 South Africa tour tried a slightly different route, cutting out several long drives, yet providing us with an almost identical number of birds and mammals. As usual we had a mixed bag of weather, varying from hot (around 95F) at Brandvlei, to cold (50F) at Wakkerstroom, we had a whole morning of rain at St. Lucia, but Kruger, which can be hot and humid, was exceptionally pleasant throughout our stay. With so many endemic and other wonderful birds to choose from it's always difficult to pick a top few, but everyone thoroughly enjoyed the African Penguin and Cape Gannet colonies, 9 species of bustards, Blue Crane, Knysna Turaco, both Cape and Drakensberg Rockjumpers and Cape and Gurney's Sugarbirds (both in families endemic to Southern Africa), a dozen endemic larks, the unique Bush Blackcap, and a whole mix of prinias, scrub-robins, rock-thrushes, sunbirds, canaries, and waxbills restricted to the continents southern most country. Mammals were varied too, ranging from huge African Elephants and Giraffes, to tiny Blue Duikers and cute Sloggett's Ice Rats, in between we enjoyed Lion, Leopard, Ratel, Slender-tailed Meerkat, both Black and White Rhinos, a whole variety of antelopes, and the greatest surprise of all, the rarely seen Ground Pangolin!

Our route began in Johannesburg, where we spent the night before catching the morning flight to Cape Town. Here we picked up our two mini-buses and then made a short drive north to Ceres stopping along the way at Bain's Kloof. Here amongst, a wealth of spectacular and unfamiliar plants, we began our first serious birding; Cape Francolin, three Verreaux's Eagles soared above a distant peak, we saw our first Red-eyed and Laughing doves (species we later see almost daily), Speckled Mousebird was a new family for some, White-necked Ravens came in close to check us out, Cape Grassbird and Victorin's Warbler (both often skulking endemics) showed surprisingly well, and eventually a Malachite Sunbird put on a good show too, finally as we headed to our hotel we made an impromptu stop and finished the day with close scope views of a small flock of lovely Swee Waxbills.

The following day found us heading north across the Tanqua Karoo and beyond to the arid country around Calvinia and Brandvlei. During two and a half days in this area, we enjoyed so many new birds, with just a few of the highlights being Secretarybird, Pale Chanting-Goshawk, Black Harrier, Ludwig's and Karoo bustards, Double-banded Courser, Namaqua Sandgrouse, White-backed Mousebird, Greater Kestrel, Bokmakierie, Spike-heeled, Karoo Long-billed and Large-billed larks, large numbers of displaying Black-eared Sparrow-larks, Fairy Flycatcher (now in a new family Stenostiridae), Black-fronted Bulbul, Namaqua Prinia, Layard's Warbler, Orange River White-eye, Karoo Scrub-Robin, Sickle-winged, Karoo, and Tractrac chats, Lark-like Bunting, Yellow, White-throated and Black-headed canaries, and Red-headed Finch. We also saw our first large mammals which included Common Giraffe and Burchell's Zebra, while smaller species were Springbok, Klipspringer, Yellow Mongoose, and playful Slender-tailed Meerkats.

Heading west to Lambert's Bay, we called in at a nearby kloof to find the 'difficult' Protea Canary - great looks at 3 this year. And then in Lambert's Bay itself, we made a visit to the famous Cape Gannet colony where about 4000 pairs breed and you can walk to within 25 yards of the colonies edge. Watching the to-ing and fro-ing, displaying, and only half controlled landings is a wonderful sight...but not the only great birds to be seen around here - 23 African Oystercatchers was an exceptional number, flocks of Great Crested, Sandwich and Common terns were roosting on the rocks, Hartlaub's and Kelp gulls were noisily everywhere, and White-fronted Plovers ran hurriedly across the sandy promontory.

We then headed south for a three night stay near Cape Town, birding along the way in the karoo and fynbos vegetation, farmlands, some tidal flats and pools near Veldriff, and then to West Coast National Park. Some of the most memorable birds along this route were Common Ostrich, South African Shelduck, Cape Shoveler, flocks of both Greater and Lesser flamingos, African Spoonbill, a striking male Black Bustard, 23 Blue Cranes, a variety of plovers and sandpipers including the tiny and localized Chestnut-banded Plover, Cape, Cape Clapper, and Karoo larks, Cape Bulbul, and Southern Double-banded Sunbird.

We then had three nights in the Cape Town region (actually at Simonstown), where on the first day we took a pelagic trip, and then on the second visited some beautiful areas in this unique floral kingdom, and also went to a colony of African (Jackass) Penguins. Without a clue why, the boat trip was strangely quiet this year (perhaps depleting or moving fish stocks) but we still enjoyed Humpback and Southern Right whales, Indian Yellow-nosed and White-capped albatrosses, White-chinned Petrels, Great and Sooty shearwaters, and Long-tailed Jaeger. Our day to Stony Point and Betty's Bay was in total contrast and just packed with new species, including two new families for everyone on the tour - Rockjumpers and Sugarbirds. Just a few of the great birds enjoyed this day were breeding Bank Cormorants next to the African Penguin colony, Jackal Buzzard, Ground Woodpecker, Cape Batis, African Paradise-Flycatcher, Cape Rockjumper (a close pair with 2 juveniles), Bar-throated Apalis, Cape Sugarbird (many feeding on a gorgeous hillside covered on yellow protea flowers), Cape Rock-Thrush, Orange-breasted Sunbird and Cape Siskin.

The next part of our tour took us on a flight to Durban where we picked up new vehicles and then headed inland to Underberg, our base for the following day visit to the Sani Pass and Lesotho. What a wonderful day this turned out to be, as with the help of local guides we just moved from one new bird to the next, finding Red-necked and Gray-winged francolins, Southern Bald Ibis, Bearded Vulture, Cape Griffon (about 50 feeding on a dead horse), Black Goshawk, Gray Crowned and Wattled cranes, Spotted Eagle-Owl, Malachite Kingfisher, Rufous-necked Wryneck, Olive Woodpecker, Drakensberg Rockjumper, African Yellow Warbler, Barratt's Warbler, Drakensburg Prinia, Bush Blackcap, Gurney's Sugarbird, Sentinel Rock-Thrush, Buff-streaked Bushchat, Greater Double-collared Sunbird, Mountain Pipit and Drakensberg Siskin.

Moving on, we back-tracked to the coast, making a short stop at Mtunzini where we picked up Pink-backed Pelican, Goliath Heron, Giant Kingfisher, Purple-crested Turaco, White-eared Barbet, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Square-tailed Drongo and Yellow-bellied Greenbul. Red Duiker and Black-faced Vervet Monkey were new to our mammal list here. And then, after a night at a comfortable guest house at Eshowe, we visited the Dlinza Forest adding Lemon Dove, Narina Trogon, Trumpeter Hornbill, Black-collared Barbet, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Southern Boubou, Southern Black-Tit, Terrestrial Brownbul, Chorister Robin-Chat, and a very obliging pair of Spotted Ground-Thrush. Blue Duikers (running around like crazy things) were the star mammals.

Heading north and back to the coast, we had a very rainy morning at St. Lucia, but still managed to pick up most of the important birds, including Crested Guineafowl, Woodward's Batis, Four-colored Bushshrike (normally a real skulker, but showing really well this time), Rudd's Apalis, Mouse-colored Sunbird, and Southern Brown-throated and Forest weavers. Hippos in the tidal river, and two large bull Elephants shoving each other around, made for interesting mammal watching.

Continuing north, we then had two nights on a private game ranch at Bayala Lodge. This not only gave us a wide variety of birds and mammals right on our door step, but also allowed for a day trip to the nearby Mkuze Game Reserve. Highlights during our stay here included Crested Francolin, Woolly-necked and Yellow-billed storks, African Cuckoo-Hawk, Brown Snake-Eagle, Spotted Thick-knee, African Jacana, Gray Go-away-bird, Red-chested and Dideric cuckoos, Verreaux's Eagle-Owl, Red-faced Mousebird, Green Woodhoopoe, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Crested Barbet, Black Cuckooshrike, Eastern Nicator (now in the new family Nicatoridae), African Penduline-Tit, Gray Tit-Flycatcher, White-throated Robin-Chat, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, and the simply gorgeous Pink-throated Twinspot. We also had some great encounters with mammals, from playful Chacma Baboons, to uncommon Side-striped Jackals, African Elephants (including one which totally blocked the road for one of our vehicles), 7 White Rhinos, more Hippos, Common Giraffe, Nyala, Greater Kudu, Blue Wildebeest, and several hundred Impala.

In total contrast, we then heading further west and into the high altitude grasslands at Wakkerstroom. Here, in the big open sky country, is one of Africa's most localized larks, and they really put us to the test this year as we walked back and forth across their favored grassy habitat. Almost at the point of giving up, there they were, two flushed birds flew over our heads and landed about 200 yards away. We slowly followed to their landing spot, and after some careful scanning we were all rewarded with fabulous looks at Rudd's Lark! Other new birds in this area included Moccoa Duck, Little Bittern, Squacco Heron, African Marsh-Harrier, African Rail, African Swamphen and African Snipe at the wetlands. The open farmland gave us Swainson's Francolin, Denham's, White-bellied and Blue bustards, Black-winged Lapwing, Marsh Owl, Eastern Long-billed, Eastern Clapper and Botha's larks, Pale-crowned and Wing-snapping cisticolas, Yellow-breasted Pipit, and Orange-throated Longclaw. Yellow Mongoose and Slender-tailed Meerkats were also seen nicely, as were Rhebok, Bontebok, and Black Wildebeest.

We then continued to the most northern part of our tour, the world famous Kruger National Park. Although there are no particular endemics to look for here, there is a wealth of more widespread African bush country and water birds, and of course the big mammals that have made this park so well known. Again, just some of the highlights were: Common Ostrich, Natal Francolin, Saddle-billed Stork, White-headed, White-backed, and Hooded vultures, Bateleur, Tawny Eagle, Kori Bustard, White-headed Lapwing, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Pearl-spotted Owlet, a pair of Barn Owls (including a lovely golden morph), 20 Southern Ground-hornbills, Southern Yellow-billed and Southern Red-billed hornbills, White-fronted Bee-eater, Lilac-breasted Roller, Brown-headed Parrot, Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike, Arrow-marked Babbler, Kurrichane Thrush, Burchell's Starling, both Red-billed and Yellow-billed oxpeckers, Mariqua Sunbird, and Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver. Over thirty species of mammals were seen, varying from Wahlberg's Epauletted Fruit Bat to Black-backed Jackal, the uncommon Ratel (or Honey Badger), tiny Dwarf Mongoose, huge Elephants (at least 400 this tour), Spotted Hyaena, Lion, Leopard, the rare Black Rhino (admittedly a far away), Warthog, Hippo, Giraffe, a dozen species of antelopes of which Impala and Blue Wildebeest were the most numerous, Sharpe's Grysbok the least common, Greater Kudu the most imposing, and Klipspringer the most statuesque. Undoubtedly, though, mammal of the trip had to be Ground Pangolin, rarely seen in daylight (or even at night) we had one walking around near to the road at 4:30 in the afternoon!

We now began to return back towards Johannesburg, breaking the journey twice along the way. Firstly in the Magoebaskloof area where we found Bat Hawk (a pair by their nest), Crowned Eagle, Rameron Pigeon, Knysna Turaco (great looks), Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Brown-necked (Cape) Parrot (becoming increasingly rare), Olive Bushshrike, Gray Cuckooshrike, African Crested-Flycatcher, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Yellow-throated Woodland-Warbler, White-starred Robin, Groundscraper Thrush,

Holub's Golden-Weaver, and African Firefinch. Our second stay was in a classic area of acacia country near Polokwane. It was a fantastic way to conclude the tour, with new birds including Coqui Francolin, Marabou Stork, Crimson-breasted Gonolek (striking red, black and white), Short-clawed Lark (rare and localized), Ashy Tit, Southern (Cape) Penduline-Tit, Desert Cisticola, Mariqua Flycatcher, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Scaly Weaver, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Black-faced Waxbill, and the simply gorgeous Violet-eared Waxbill. And here, we also saw the most stunning antelope of all, a fabulous male Sable right in the middle of the road.

Our next South Africa tour runs October 3-25, 2019.

Thanks to all of you for exploring this wonderful country with Joe and me.

-- Terry

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

We got a good view of this African Openbill Stork as it captured and ate a water snail. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

Verreaux's Eagle-Owl is always a treat to see, and this one was no exception. It had captured a Natal Francolin, so in a way, this was a two-for-one viewing. Fortunately, we were able to find some live Francolin's as well! Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

South Africa is well-known as the place to see quintessential African mammals such as these Common Giraffes. They are often accompanied by Oxpeckers; in this case, it is a Red-billed Oxpecker. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

We had several good views of the Black Crake. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

Yellow-throated Longclaw resembles the North American meadowlarks, but it is actually in the same family as wagtails and pipits. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

We saw 9 species of bustards on this tour, including this Black-bellied Bustard flying across a road. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

The unusual Ground Woodpecker is a South African endemic that we saw well in the Sani Pass. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

This Yellow-billed Stork was intent on catching its supper, allowing us to get a good look at it. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

Participant Cathy Douglas got this great portrait of a Cape Batis.

The Side-Striped Jackal is uncommon, so we were glad to find a pair on our night drive at Bayala. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills were common in Kruger National Park, where participant Kathleen John got this lovely image.

Endemic to South Africa, this male Cape Rockjumper is one of a pair that we saw at Rooiels. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

We saw this handsome White-browed Coucal in Mkuze-Bayala. This is the Burchell's subspecies, which might be split as a full species some day. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

The Pink-throated Twinspot is a beauty! Photo by participant Kathleen John.

These White-fronted Bee-eaters posed nicely for us in Kruger. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

Sykes Monkey was one of our mammal sightings; we found three in the forest at Magoebaskloof. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

This Cape Sugarbird was feeding on protea, one of the specialties of the Cape floristic region of South Africa. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

Red-chested Cuckoos were seen and heard at Mkuze and Magoebaskloof. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

The gorgeous Southern Cordonbleu was common in the northern part of the tour. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

The most common of the turacos we saw was the Purple-crested. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

This male Honey Badger, or Ratel, posed nicely for us on a roadside in Kruger. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

The Karoo region is famous for its wildflower displays, seen here in a lovely photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

One of thirteen species of sunbirds we saw was the endemic Orange-breasted Sunbird, a real beauty! Photo by participant Kathleen John.

This young Spotted Eagle-Owl was one of two we saw with their parents at Bayala. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

These Lions were lounging in the shade in Kruger; we also heard them, but did not see them, at Bayala. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

The Golden-breasted Bunting is a lovely bird. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

This demure and well-camouflaged White-fronted Plover was one of a number that we found near Lambert's Bay. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

We had great views of this Drakensburg Rockjumper at Sani Pass, completing our sightings of this endemic family. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

Little Swifts were widespread and common on the tour, seen here with a lining of guinea-fowl feathers in their their nest. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

Southern Double-collared Sunbird was seen very well on this tour. Photo by participant Kathleen John.

The group posed for a photo at Magoebaskloof forest. We look very happy, having seen so many wonderful things! Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

Last, but certainly not least, perhaps our best sighting was this amazing Ground Pangolin! They are rarely encountered at all, much less during daylight, so we were extremely fortunate to see this fabulous creature. Photo by participant Cathy Douglas.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Additional mammals seen on the tour included;

Mauritian Tomb Bat; 3 at Bayala.

Egyptian Free-tailed Bat; about 70 at Kruger.

Reptiles included;

Nile Crocodile; at least 20 (including some huge ones) at Kruger.

Water Monitor; 3 singles at Kruger.

Southern Rock Agama; 3 in the Ceres area, and 1 at Howick Falls.

Southern Ground Agama; 4 in the Calvinia area.

Blue-headed Tree Agama; 2 at Mkuze.

Drakensburg Crag Lizard; 1 at the Sani Pass.

Tropical House Gecko; several seen at our guest house at Eshowe.

Striped Grass Snake; 1 at West Coast NP.

Angulated Tortoise; about 14 at various sites in the Cape region.

Leopard Tortoise; 1 at Mkuze.

Natal Hinged Tortoise; 1 Mkuze.

Marsh Terrapin; about 40 at Mkuze.

Totals for the tour: 479 bird taxa and 59 mammal taxa