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We had a great expedition cruise to a remote part of the world. We crossed 80º N latitude, only 650 miles from the North Pole -- few people ever get this far north. The weather was spectacular for most of the trip with sunny skies and little wind, and we found ourselves shedding layers during our land-based birding and hiking. However, some fog and mist rolled in the last day, curtailing a close land approach to Walrus. There was a lot of snow remaining on the tundra, which probably set back the nesting of some of the birds by a week or more. Early indications were that our route would be changed by ice in the northern fjords, but new satellite ice charts showed that much of the ice had moved out over the previous several days, and we were little affected.
Between our first birding when we saw Common Ringed Plover in Longyearbyen to our last day on the ship when we found male King Eiders, we squeezed in a lot of highlights. Some of these were the pair of Rock Ptarmigan on our first hike when the male flew right over our heads; several encounters with Great Skuas harassing terns; the Dovekies laughing as flocks circled over the nesting scree at Bellsund; cruising under the multitudes of Thick-billed Murres and Black-legged Kittiwakes at the bird cliffs at Alkefjellet where some of us got souvenirs; Ivory Gull for a lucky few; Walrus on the ice floes next to the ship; great looks at a close Fin Whale on our first evening; several views of the seemingly tiny Arctic Foxes patrolling the bird cliffs and tundra; and of course the Polar Bears. We ended up with several great Polar Bear sightings including a female with a cub, another female working on a dolphin carcass, and a long study of a large male strolling along the ridge. One of more impressive sightings was the male bear on the pack ice since we got to see it in a place where they spend most of their lives.
And, we cannot forgot our post-dinner birding walk near our hotel in Oslo where we found Gray Heron, Common Gull, White Wagtail, Eurasian Magpie, Jackdaw, Great Tit, Willow Warbler, Yellowhammer, Eurasian Goldfinch, and Eurasian Tree Sparrow.
We enjoyed quite an international cohort of travelers, with more than 20 nationalities represented. There was good food as well, and a great group of birders. I hope to see you all again somewhere else in the world.
--John
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BIRDS
MAMMALS
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Totals for the tour: 24 bird taxa and 9 mammal taxa