Butterflies, moths, wildflowers, mountains, marsh, and sea; motmots, kingfishers, warblers (32 species!), flycatchers, tanagers, and hummingbirds; the list of highlights from our Veracruz adventure seems endless...and I haven't even gotten to the raptors yet! This Rio de Rapaces or River of Raptors tour was spectacular on so many levels. Migration is a mesmerizing phenomenon and we were fortunate to witness one of the grandest concentrations on the planet. It was made all the better by the incomparable guiding of my co-leader, Jorge Montejo-Diaz. His lifetime of experience in the region and endearing personality greatly enhanced our tour. Being transported safely in an immaculate bus by Jorge Herrera was noteworthy as well.
Everyone arrived without a hitch and we began our tour with a stalled cold front whipping the coast. Despite the wind, our first morning out at Arroyo El Giote jumpstarted our checklist with an excellent diversity of terns, a massive Ringed Kingfisher, a scattering of shorebirds, teal tearing down the coast and raptors in hunting mode. In the afternoon, we made our way to Cardel and checked into Hotel Bienvenido, our base for the bulk of the tour. After getting our bearings on the roof, we headed over to the other count site at Chichicaxtle, picking up warblers, tanagers and hummingbirds in the trees and shrubs around the lookout.
Our modus operandi for the next few days was to search for songbirds and coastal species at dawn, then head to the hawk watch sites once the thermals start heating up. Day two began with gorgeous golden light at Playa Chachalacas, which hosted a rich diversity of waders, shorebirds, kingfishers, terns, and pelicans. Midmorning we transferred over to Playa Juan Angel and added Long-billed Curlew and Snowy Plover before things got really exciting. Who could forget the pair of Aplomado Falcons in hot pursuit of the warbler (that got away!)? Once we stepped into the shade, we started adding exciting endemics like Mexican Sheartail and the Veracruz subspecies of Rufous-naped Wren. In the afternoon, we headed to La Antigua for some cultural stops before an evening boat cruise down Rio La Antigua. The wind was really ripping but we scored a bunch of fun species.
Day three began in the dry scrub forest outside Xocotitla. We picked up numerous new species like Laughing and Bat falcons, sparrows, saltators, flycatchers and orioles. On our way back, a stop at the bridge added Couch's Kingbird, Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, and Amazon Kingfisher. The skies were indicating that the front had finally passed so it was time to get to the rooftop. Our afternoon was spent scanning the skies and it was clear that the migration dam had finally broken. We saw more Peregrine Falcons than any of us could remember, but their movement was overshadowed by the never-ending parade of American Kestrels. Ospreys were on the move too and we managed to pick out a late Swallow-tailed Kite and some Lesser Nighthawks toward the end of the day.
The next morning we all were revved up in anticipation of the predicted raptor movement. Before the raptor liftoff, we went to Cansaburro. This walk along a massive vegetated dune was delightfully productive, with highlights of Purple Gallinule, Roseate Spoonbill, Spot-breasted Wren, Altamira Oriole, numerous warbler species, and a ridiculously obliging Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. Once kettles of raptors started forming we zipped back to the rooftop at Hotel Bienvenido. Words and photos simply do not do justice to the magnitude of the migration we witnessed that afternoon. Tens of thousands of hawks and vultures streamed overhead for hours on end. Broad-winged Hawks made up the bulk of the flight this day. Impressive flocks of Anhinga and American White Pelicans added to our migration euphoria.
Jorge led us to La Mancha for the start of day five. The birding was hot right from the start: Green Kingfishers, tree-climbing Russet-naped Wood-Rails, a Prothonotary Warbler, Masked Tityra and Rose-throated Becard to name just a few. Next stop was the historical site of Quiahuixtlan, which was interesting from a cultural perspective, but the Brown Jays, Montezuma Oropendolas, Short-tailed Hawks and Mississippi Kites made it even better. Before returning to Cardel, we made a brief pull-out for bizarre Double-striped Thick-knees, which were taking shelter in the shadow of fenceposts. The afternoon hawkwatching was not as overwhelming as the day before but we still saw tens of thousands, including a noticeable uptick in Swainson's Hawks. Wood Stork numbers increased as well and a few Hook-billed Kites were teased from the masses. A Scarlet Tanager was a noteworthy observation at Chichicaxtle. For some of us, the introduction to bolis, the delightfully sweet frozen Mexican treats in a tube, were the highlight of the day!
Having absorbed about all we could take of raptor migration, it was time to transfer up to Xalapa for some higher elevation birding. Our birding stop en route to Xalapa was at Laguna de Miradores where we encountered Grass Wren, Botteri's Sparrow, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Olive-sided Flycatcher, and Painted Bunting. Parque Natura was our first taste of habitat at elevation and it produced a host of new species for us: Blue-capped Motmot, Collared Forest-Falcon, Squirrel Cuckoo, Golden-Olive Woodpecker, and Dusky-capped Flycatcher among others. After checking in to our new hotel, we visited Parque Ecologico El Haya (in Jorge's backyard) for a burst of hummingbird species, Louisiana Waterthrush, Acorn Woodpecker, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Golden-crowned Warbler, and a flock of Common Chlorospingus.
Friday the 13th we climbed up from Xalapa several thousand feet and began the day overlooking Las Minas Canyon. Red, Crescent-chested, Golden-browed, and Olive warblers were joined by Slate-throated Redstart, Hooded Yellowthroat, Gray Silky-Flycatcher, Black Thrush, Russet Nightingale-Thrush, the endemic Brown-backed Solitaire, plus the world's second smallest bird: Bumblebee Hummingbird. At the highest elevations at Cofre de Perote, we added Transvolcanic Jay, Pine Flycatcher and Striped Sparrow. The parched landscape in the afternoon was the appropriate habitat for us to catch up to Buff-breasted Flycatcher, Curve-billed Thrasher, the Sumichrast's subspecies of Woodhouse's Scrub-Jay, Bewick's Wren, and Black-chinned Sparrows. A flyover White-tailed Kite was an unexpected bonus.
Our eighth morning together began at dawn at the gates of Parque Ecologico Macuiltepetl. This winding path climbed through lush habitat, brimming with birdlife: MacGillivray's, Canada and Hooded warblers, Green Jays, White-winged Tanager, Greater Pewee, Blue Mockingbird, plus killer looks at more Blue-capped Motmots and Squirrel Cuckoos. In the afternoon, Jorge guided us through the Anthropology Museum, adding to an already rich cultural experience in Mexico.
The amazingly diverse state of Veracruz had given us so much by this point, but we still had a few more habitat types to visit. Our last morning was spent in the grasslands of Las Barrancas. Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures and Snail Kites coursed low over the fields as we ate breakfast. Double-striped Thick-knees stalked roadside and we lucked into an American Bittern and Great Black Hawk as well. The surprise of the morning was an immature Parasitic Jaeger -- very unexpected to see it not over water! Heavy rain moved in as the tour was bookended by another cold front, but it didn't dampen our birding as we waited (and waited) for lunch at a riverside cafe in Tlacotalpan. Species getting our attention there were: Mangrove Swallow, Black, Caspian and Gull-billed terns, Common Black Hawks and Franklin's Gulls.
Sharing our three favorite species of the tour at the finale dinner began atypically as we all agreed that migration was THE highlight of the tour. All the amazing butterflies were mentioned of course as well. Acknowledging that, you all came up with a long list of favorite birds. Aplomado Falcon took top honors but Broad-winged Hawk, American White Pelican, Brown-backed Solitaire, and Great Black Hawk all received multiple votes. Thanks for choosing Field Guides for your birding adventure in Veracruz. It was truly a pleasure sharing this experience with all of you.
Take care and good birding,
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)
A distinctive duck to be sure; we had dozens our last morning at Las Barrancas
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)
An individual flew over us while we were roadside birding at Xocotitla
BLUE-WINGED TEAL (Spatula discors)
Numerous flocks were on the move our first windy morning
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)
A few mixed in with the teal
PLAIN CHACHALACA (Ortalis vetula)
"I'm on the ground, I'm on the ground!" I am not sure what was more entertaining, the chachalaca panic-running across the opening or Jorge's imitation of it
BEARDED WOOD-PARTRIDGE (Dendrortyx barbatus) [*]
Their loud vocalizations could be heard deep in the canyon at Las Minas
NORTHERN BOBWHITE (GRAYSONI/NIGRIPECTUS) (Colinus virginianus graysoni) [*]
Several stops we heard them calling near sunrise; the most memorable were our last morning at Las Barrancas
LEAST GREBE (Tachybaptus dominicus)
Excellent views of this sooty grebe with the golden eye during our river cruise
PIED-BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps)
Just one in the lagoon at the end of our walk at La Mancha
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
Plenty
RED-BILLED PIGEON (Patagioenas flavirostris)
A subtle beauty; it was a treat to look down on them from the rooftop in Cardel
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto) [I]
Here and there
INCA DOVE (Columbina inca)
"No hope." We saw lots of these tiny, long-tailed doves and heard even more
COMMON GROUND DOVE (Columbina passerina)
The birds at Xocotitla turned out to be the only ones we encountered on the tour
PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND DOVE (Columbina minuta interrupta)
It was pretty impressive how well hidden those couple of birds were despite how close we were to them. No doubt the windy conditions factored into their skulking
RUDDY GROUND DOVE (Columbina talpacoti rufipennis)
More days than not for this little beauty
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi) [*]
Calling in the distance at the start of our hike at Xocotitla
WHITE-WINGED DOVE (Zenaida asiatica)
Flock, after flock, after flock -- one of the more numerous migrants passing through Veracruz
MOURNING DOVE (Zenaida macroura)
More days than not
GROOVE-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga sulcirostris)
Goofy, gregarious cuckoos
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)
It is remarkable that a such a large, long-tailed bird with rich plumage coloration can be so hard to see but thankfully we had plenty of good looks our morning at Macuiltepetl
LESSER NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles acutipennis)
We spotted several individuals in flight late in the day, with the best look coming from the hawk watch at Chichicaxtle on our third day
BLACK SWIFT (Cypseloides niger)
Several of these dark, powerful-flying swifts were overhead at Xocotitla
VAUX'S SWIFT (YUCATAN) (Chaetura vauxi gaumeri)
Overhead on several occasions
WHITE-THROATED SWIFT (Aeronautes saxatalis saxatalis)
We were looking down on them in the morning sunlight in the canyon at Las Minas
RIVOLI'S HUMMINGBIRD (Eugenes fulgens)
This massive, dark hummingbird visited the feeders at El Haya a few times
AMETHYST-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis amethystinus)
Las Minas
BLUE-THROATED MOUNTAIN-GEM (Lampornis clemenciae clemenciae)
We got a look at its big, dark tail as it was foraging along the steep road bank up at Las Minas
MEXICAN SHEARTAIL (Doricha eliza) [E]
One of the endemic highlights in drier landscapes; our best look was at a perched male at Juan Angel
RUBY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Archilochus colubris)
Quite a few at Las Barrancas
BUMBLEBEE HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus heloisa) [E]
One of the smallest birds in the world and a Mexican endemic
CANIVET'S EMERALD (Cynanthus canivetii)
Brilliant green at Juan Angel
WHITE-EARED HUMMINGBIRD (Basilinna leucotis)
It took some patience but eventually we got scope views at Las Minas
WEDGE-TAILED SABREWING (CURVE-WINGED) (Pampa curvipennis curvipennis) [E]
The most common large hummingbird coming to the feeders at El Haya
VIOLET SABREWING (Campylopterus hemileucurus hemileucurus)
The easiest way to pick out the female visiting the feeders was its conspicuously decurved bill
AZURE-CROWNED HUMMINGBIRD (AZURE-CROWNED) (Saucerottia cyanocephala cyanocephala)
Swarming the feeders; clearly the most numerous hummingbird at El Haya
BERYLLINE HUMMINGBIRD (Saucerottia beryllina)
Just a few people got on this one
BUFF-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia yucatanensis)
The individual below the hawk watch at Chichicaxtle was reliable
WHITE-BELLIED EMERALD (Chlorestes candida)
That white belly did stand out
RUSSET-NAPED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides albiventris)
It was interesting to watch it forage at La Mancha and we heard the species in a few other locations
AMERICAN COOT (Fulica americana)
At Juan Angel
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica)
It was entertaining to watch this colorful species clinging to the stalks to reach the seed heads in the wetland at Cansaburro
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna)
Two brief experiences for some of us
DOUBLE-STRIPED THICK-KNEE (Burhinus bistriatus)
What marvelously bizarre birds; their massive eyes give away their preference for nocturnal foraging
BLACK-NECKED STILT (Himantopus mexicanus)
Elegance in a shorebird
AMERICAN AVOCET (Recurvirostra americana)
That flock at the river mouth at La Antigua just couldn't seem to settle down with all the boats and high wind
BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola)
Found at most coastal sites we visited
SNOWY PLOVER (Charadrius nivosus)
These pale plovers are easily overlooked but we enjoyed excellent views of cooperative birds at Juan Angel
SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus)
At most coastal sites we visited
KILLDEER (Charadrius vociferus)
Just a couple individuals
NORTHERN JACANA (Jacana spinosa)
Those toes!
UPLAND SANDPIPER (Bartramia longicauda)
Sharp-eared Chris noticed a calling bird overhead as we arrived at Las Barrancas
LONG-BILLED CURLEW (Numenius americanus)
A giant among the plovers and sandpipers at Juan Angel
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
Striking
SANDERLING (Calidris alba)
We studied adult non-breeding versus juvenile plumage
LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla)
Multiple cooperative individuals
WESTERN SANDPIPER (Calidris mauri)
We scrutinized these guys for Semipalmated but they all had longer, tapering to a fine point, drooping bills
SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER (Limnodromus griseus)
An individual was flying around at Playa Chachalacas; thankfully it called to help with the ID
WILSON'S SNIPE (Gallinago delicata)
A flyover at dawn at Xocotitla and three tucked into the shoreline vegetation at Miradores
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
Most coastal sites
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)
Excellent looks at Playa Chahcalacas
WILLET (WESTERN) (Tringa semipalmata inornata)
In good numbers at multiple sites
PARASITIC JAEGER (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Wow, what a surprise! I don't recall seeing one over land away from the breeding grounds
LAUGHING GULL (Leucophaeus atricilla)
Mostly first winter birds
FRANKLIN'S GULL (Leucophaeus pipixcan)
It was interesting to watch the flocks in the rain over the river during lunch at Tlacotalpan
GULL-BILLED TERN (Gelochelidon nilotica)
Also over the Rio Papaloapan during our last lunch
CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)
Same as previous species
BLACK TERN (Chlidonias niger)
There is a pattern emerging here
COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
Mostly first winter birds at our first birding stop: Arroyo El Giote. Jorge noted it was a significant number of individuals
FORSTER'S TERN (Sterna forsteri)
The needle in the haystack at Arroyo El Giote
ROYAL TERN (Thalasseus maximus)
Lots of good looks
SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
The most numerous tern species in that region at that time; we saw them by the hundreds
BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger)
The distinctive birds in morning sunlight at Playa Chachalacas were memorable
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana)
The flocks migrating were interesting to watch soar
MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens)
Effortless on the wing
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)
Their silhouettes are distinctive -- tight flocks migrating
NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Nannopterum brasilianum)
Numerous in several locations
AMERICAN WHITE PELICAN (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos)
I absolutely love how they circle in unison
BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis)
Strictly coastal
AMERICAN BITTERN (Botaurus lentiginosus)
What a pleasant surprise to have that bird in flight put down in the field close to us. It was impressive how well it blended into the landscape when it wanted to
BARE-THROATED TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma mexicanum)
From the ancient bridge on our return from Xocotitla
GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias)
Neat to see migrants high overhead
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
Here and there along the coast
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
Easy to come by
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
Surprising to me was the fact that we saw this species the most at Las Barrancas
TRICOLORED HERON (Egretta tricolor)
The wader wearing white boxer shorts
REDDISH EGRET (Egretta rufescens)
It was entertaining to observe the many foraging techniques of this wader at Playa Chachalacas
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
Big flocks
GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens)
Never numerous but we enjoyed good looks at multiple locations
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
The creeping behavior in frog pose was amusing
YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nyctanassa violacea)
Funny how they were all flinching when the Snail Kite was in flight
WHITE IBIS (Eudocimus albus)
The flocks flying by the hawk watch sites were comprised mostly of juveniles; the bulk of the adults probably passed by earlier
WHITE-FACED IBIS (Plegadis chihi)
This is the default Plegadis species expected in the region
ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja)
Two birds flew over in a mixed flock at sunrise during our walk at Cansaburro
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)
In huge numbers and on the wing but going nowhere
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
The squadrons by the hundreds and thousands, streaming overhead, with the somewhat symmetrical spacing, were a joy to watch
LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus)
We just had to get to the appropriate habitat to find this close cousin to the Turkey Vulture: the extensive grasslands at Las Barrancas
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus)
We witnessed a conspicuous push of migrants at the same time as the big kestrel movement
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)
What an elegant raptor, in a most unexpected location
HOOK-BILLED KITE (HOOK-BILLED) (Chondrohierax uncinatus uncinatus)
A few migrants were tough to pick out among the thousands of raptors overhead during the peak flights. I recall one bird in the afternoon at Chichicaxtle that I think everyone got on
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)
We were fortunate to catch two tardy individuals passing over Cardel; most of these elegant raptors migrate through Mexico in August and September
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis)
Plenty of good looks across the landscape at Las Barrancas
MISSISSIPPI KITE (Ictinia mississippiensis)
Over 300,000 of these early migrants had already been counted before our tour; we were just catching the immature stragglers
NORTHERN HARRIER (Circus hudsonius)
A few from the hawk watches but our best looks were certainly over the grasslands at Las Barrancas
SHARP-SHINNED HAWK (Accipiter striatus)
Plenty of migrants passing the hawk watches
COOPER'S HAWK (Accipiter cooperii)
Not quite as numerous as the previous species but still quite a few
COMMON BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus anthracinus)
The pair of adults across the river during our last lunch in Tlacotalpan were striking
GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga)
We spotted an immature bird on a fencepost our last morning in the field
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris)
Conspicuous by sight and sound
GRAY HAWK (Buteo plagiatus)
One got itself in trouble when it soared into a Roadside Hawk territory
BROAD-WINGED HAWK (Buteo platypterus)
Truly awe-inspiring numbers of these migrants after that stalled front finally cleared the area
SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus)
A few here and there; our best looks were a light morph followed by a dark morph soaring low over Quiahuixtlan
SWAINSON'S HAWK (Buteo swainsoni)
It was interesting to study the structure and flight style differences with Broad-winged Hawk in the kettles
ZONE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albonotatus)
We managed to spot a few of these Turkey Vulture mimics among the many thousands of real vultures
RED-TAILED HAWK (Buteo jamaicensis)
It was so odd for me to be around many thousands of raptors and to only see a few of these
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum)
We got used to Jorge's uncanny imitation but the real owls never did; we enjoyed excellent looks at this mighty but tiny owl multiple times and it never got old
BLACK-HEADED TROGON (Trogon melanocephalus) [*]
We were unlucky with trogons on this run but some people got to hear this species during our walk at Cansaburro
BLUE-CAPPED MOTMOT (Momotus coeruliceps)
Motmots are so regal and this species is no exception; we savored multiple good looks at Macuiltepetl
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)
This massive kingfisher held the wire nicely for us, despite the high wind, our first walk at Arroyo El Giote and we caught up to another one on the river cruise
BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon)
The kingfisher we encountered most frequently during the tour
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)
The bill of this species is proportionally huge! We saw one perched in the shadows along the river at the ancient bridge
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)
It was so fun to have multiple sightings during our morning walk at La Mancha
YELLOW-BELLIED SAPSUCKER (Sphyrapicus varius)
The first of these migrants were just arriving at the end of our tour. We finally caught up to one at Macuiltepetl
ACORN WOODPECKER (Melanerpes formicivorus)
We enjoyed watching and listening to a family group at El Haya
GOLDEN-FRONTED WOODPECKER (VELASQUEZ'S) (Melanerpes aurifrons veraecrucis)
Widespread
LADDER-BACKED WOODPECKER (Dryobates scalaris)
Sightings almost daily
HAIRY WOODPECKER (Dryobates villosus)
Just once up at Las Minas
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus) [*]
Heard repeatedly at multiple locations but we never got close enough to this impressive woodpecker to get a look
GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus)
What a stunner! There were lots of oohs and aahs when this beautiful woodpecker came into view at Parque Natura
NORTHERN FLICKER (RED-SHAFTED) (Colaptes auratus mexicanus)
We finally added this species up near Perote
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
I am not sure I would characterize their vocalization as a laugh but it was borderline comical how long that pair carried on calling during our morning at Xocotitla
COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur semitorquatus)
That bird zipping in and perching briefly, while all the songbirds scattered at Parque Natura made for a dramatic scene
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara plancus)
Quite a few around at Las Barrancas
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
This was the indicator species for the migration floodgates opening up with the passage of the front (I can't call it cold) -- 600+ in one afternoon!
MERLIN (Falco columbarius)
More days than not but never numerous
APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis)
Voted the species of the tour! We enjoyed so many good looks at this dashing falcon. None of us will forget the pair chasing that warbler over the dunes at Juan Angel
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)
This one is a real race car and flashing paint job to boot! I was delighted that one at Xocotitla held its perch long enough for everyone to enjoy good scope views.
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
If it wasn't for the constant parade of American Kestrels, we would have been celebrating all the Peregrines on that third afternoon more
MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus) [I]
A small colony of this introduced species seems to be doing well behind Hotel Mocambo
RED-LORED PARROT (Amazona autumnalis)
Heard calling for awhile before we finally spotted a small flock in flight at Xocotitla
WHITE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona albifrons)
We encountered this Amazona on three different days
OLIVE-THROATED PARAKEET (AZTEC) (Eupsittula nana astec)
Most of our looks were flybys but we got scope views at least once that I recall
OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus)
We had to declare we were leaving to get this one to finally show itself just before the rain and sunset chased us out of El Haya
SPOT-CROWNED WOODCREEPER (NORTHERN) (Lepidocolaptes affinis affinis)
We caught up to this woodcreeper at elevation (Las Minas)
MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata)
Good looks at La Mancha
ROSE-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus aglaiae)
Oddly proportioned and sexually dimorphic
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)
They were very near us and quite vocal but it took awhile to finally get looks at these sprites at Las Barrancas
NORTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET (Camptostoma imberbe)
This delicate flycatcher was in the dry shrubs at Xocotitla
OLIVE-SIDED FLYCATCHER (Contopus cooperi)
Contopus genus flycatchers can be tricky to identify so we were all thankful that first individual stuck around long enough at Miradores to secure the proper ID: vested appearance, heavy bill and blocky head. It was also helpful to have one in view at the same time as the next species when we were looking into the caldera at Macuiltepetl
GREATER PEWEE (Contopus pertinax)
There was something regal about the individual teed up in the caldera at Macuiltepetl
WESTERN WOOD-PEWEE (Contopus sordidulus)
While we never heard a call note to clinch the ID, our collective experience all leaned heavily toward Western (vs. Eastern) for the bird on the wire as we were leaving Macuiltepetl
YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax flaviventris)
I was really bewildered to see a flycatcher that prefers conifers at bog edges and mountain forests of the Northeast switch to parched, desert scrub habitat in the winter
LEAST FLYCATCHER (Empidonax minimus)
Their "whit" call notes were nearly a constant the first few mornings of the tour
HAMMOND'S FLYCATCHER (Empidonax hammondii)
Up at Las Minas
DUSKY FLYCATCHER (Empidonax oberholseri)
In the dry valley west of Perote
PINE FLYCATCHER (Empidonax affinis)
We found this Empidonax at around 10,000 feet
CORDILLERAN FLYCATCHER (Empidonax occidentalis)
This species has been lumped back together with Pacific-slope. It is now Western (again) and this will be reflected with our next update of this program.
BUFF-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Empidonax fulvifrons rubicundus)
A distinctive Empidonax -- what a treat!
EASTERN PHOEBE (Sayornis phoebe)
Good looks at Miradores
SAY'S PHOEBE (Sayornis saya saya)
Just a few
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
Sharon's bird! We had so many great looks at this vibrant little flycatcher that thankfully prefers to tee up when perched
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer)
Calling and some views at Parque Natura
GREAT CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus crinitus)
Their strong "Wheep!" call was heard at multiple locations and we saw this bright Myiarchus several times
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus) [*]
Heard on our walk at Xocotitla down at the little reservoir at the end
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
The boldest of the "three musketeers"
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
Hard to forget Jorge's description of the call
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis)
Conspicuous family groups in the canopy of the trees below the rooftop of Hotel Bienvenido
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Particularly vocal at sunrise
COUCH'S KINGBIRD (Tyrannus couchii)
The pair at the ancient bridge responded nicely; their calls were the key in separating them from all the Tropical Kingbirds we had been hearing
EASTERN KINGBIRD (Tyrannus tyrannus)
There was a reliable bird in the canopy as we looked down from the rooftop at Hotel Bienvenido
SCISSOR-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus forficatus)
The loose flocks streaming overhead were one of the more memorable migration phenomenons
FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus savana)
We didn't catch up to this magnificent species until the last morning but then we had them in spades
WHITE-EYED VIREO (Vireo griseus)
More days than not
HUTTON'S VIREO (Vireo huttoni)
Up at Las Minas
CASSIN'S VIREO (CASSIN'S) (Vireo cassinii cassinii)
Part of our group spotted one of these in a mixed flock from the tower at Macuiltepetl
BLUE-HEADED VIREO (Vireo solitarius solitarius)
One of their calls reminds me of the maniacal laughter of the Penguin -- the character from the Batman series. We heard it repeatedly on our hike at Macuiltepetl.
WARBLING VIREO (Vireo gilvus)
Those who climbed the tower at Macuiltepetl got a look at one in a mixed flock
LOGGERHEAD SHRIKE (Lanius ludovicianus)
Our best look was the individual on the barbed wire at Las Barrancas
BROWN JAY (Psilorhinus morio)
These big, noisy jays made an appearance at multiple stops
GREEN JAY (Cyanocorax yncas)
We kept hearing them off in the distance at Macuiltepetl but then just before we exited the park, we encountered a remarkably cooperative flock
STELLER'S JAY (Cyanocitta stelleri)
Heard more than seen when we were up at elevation
WOODHOUSE'S SCRUB-JAY (SUMICHRAST'S) (Aphelocoma woodhouseii sumichrasti)
This subspecies has a noticeably different pitch to its call notes
TRANSVOLCANIC JAY (Aphelocoma ultramarina ultramarina) [E]
It was thrilling to catch up to this extemely range-restricted species
MEXICAN CHICKADEE (Poecile sclateri sclateri)
Best looks were up at Cofre de Perote
BLACK-CRESTED TITMOUSE (Baeolophus atricristatus atricristatus)
Heard more than seen at Miradores
HORNED LARK (Eremophila alpestris)
A specific stop on our way back to Perote proved fruitful
NORTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx serripennis)
Almost daily
MANGROVE SWALLOW (Tachycineta albilinea)
Good looks in the rain from our lunch spot in Tlacotalpan
VIOLET-GREEN SWALLOW (Tachycineta thalassina)
A few of us picked out a couple mixed in with the White-throated Swifts over the canyon at Las Minas
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
A few of these diminutive swallows were pointed out
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
Definitely the most numerous swallow by far
CLIFF SWALLOW (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota)
A few here and there
CAVE SWALLOW (Petrochelidon fulva)
We teased up a couple from the hawk watch at Chichicaxtle
BUSHTIT (MELANOTIS GROUP) (Psaltriparus minimus personatus)
A swarm of these social sprites poured through the canopy at Cofre de Perote
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Corthylio calendula)
Only at elevation
GOLDEN-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus satrapa)
Same as previous species
WHITE-BREASTED NUTHATCH (INTERIOR WEST) (Sitta carolinensis kinneari)
Just one and it was uncharacteristically quiet; good spotting by Chris up at Cofre de Perote
BROWN CREEPER (Certhia americana)
Heard way more than seen at Cofre de Perote
BLUE-GRAY GNATCATCHER (Polioptila caerulea)
Lots and lots and lots
CANYON WREN (Catherpes mexicanus mexicanus)
A delayed response but one bird gave its ringing song at the end of our hike at Xocotitla
HOUSE WREN (BROWN-THROATED) (Troglodytes aedon brunneicollis)
Just a few towards the end of the trip
GRASS WREN (NORTHERN) (Cistothorus platensis jalapensis)
What a treat to see this skulker so well!
BEWICK'S WREN (Thryomanes bewickii)
There were a few in the dry scrub after lunch in Perote
BAND-BACKED WREN (Campylorhynchus zonatus)
Most days the second half of the tour
GRAY-BARRED WREN (Campylorhynchus megalopterus) [E]
This species is consistently found in groups
RUFOUS-NAPED WREN (VERACRUZ) (Campylorhynchus rufinucha rufinucha) [E]
This large, charismatic wren is bound to be elevated to its own species
SPOT-BREASTED WREN (Pheugopedius maculipectus)
What a wonderful, ringing song; best detected at Cansaburro
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (CENTRAL AMERICAN) (Henicorhina leucophrys mexicana) [*]
Heard well but we never got a look at this wren up at Las Minas
BLUE MOCKINGBIRD (Melanotis caerulescens)
We worked and worked to get a look at this unusual mockingbird, and then when we weren't even trying, we enjoyed sustained looks at an individual gobbling down the fruit on that vine
GRAY CATBIRD (Dumetella carolinensis)
Not many individuals, but most days during the second half of the tour
CURVE-BILLED THRASHER (Toxostoma curvirostre)
Good looks in the scope of the mildly curved bills of this golden-eyed thrasher
TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus gilvus)
We had a bird hold its perch on the wire near where we saw the American Bittern, which made for an excellent comparison to the Northern Mockingbird we had earlier in the day
NORTHERN MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus polyglottos)
Good looks at a bird with large, white wing patches when it flew near the cattle pen after breakfast at Las Barrancas
WESTERN BLUEBIRD (Sialia mexicana)
Good scope views west of Perote
BROWN-BACKED SOLITAIRE (Myadestes occidentalis) [E]
What an enchanting song! Thankfully, one of them held a perch long enough for all to get scope views at this subtle beauty
RUSSET NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus occidentalis)
Another dawn performer at Las Minas
WOOD THRUSH (Hylocichla mustelina)
A familiar sound in an unfamiliar landscape; interesting to see this species on its wintering grounds at El Haya
CLAY-COLORED THRUSH (Turdus grayi)
Common and conspicuous
BLACK THRUSH (Turdus infuscatus)
Another Las Minas find
AMERICAN ROBIN (Turdus migratorius)
Up at elevation
GRAY SILKY-FLYCATCHER (Ptiliogonys cinereus)
Wonderful views of this snazzy bird at Las Minas
OLIVE WARBLER (Peucedramus taeniatus)
We saw several but there was one bright male up at Cofre de Perote that I am sure sticks out in your memory
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
We had them in a few smaller communities above Xalapa
AMERICAN PIPIT (Anthus rubescens)
Flyovers at Las Barrancas
SCRUB EUPHONIA (Euphonia affinis)
Our best look was at Cansaburro
YELLOW-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia hirundinacea)
The male foraging below the hummingbird feeders at El Haya was particularly sharp
HOUSE FINCH (Haemorhous mexicanus)
One female teed up nicely for us on the wire at Miradores
RED CROSSBILL (Loxia curvirostra)
We heard flyovers a couple of times and saw silhouettes overhead during our morning at elevation. Jorge suggested those were most likely call type 11.
LESSER GOLDFINCH (Spinus psaltria)
Our best looks were west of Perote
COMMON CHLOROSPINGUS (NORTHEAST MEXICO) (Chlorospingus flavopectus ophthalmicus)
A group were foraging together shortly after we entered El Haya
BOTTERI'S SPARROW (Peucaea botterii)
What a great look at Miradores!
GRASSHOPPER SPARROW (Ammodramus savannarum)
Heard singing its insect-like song several times at Las Barrancas. It could have easily gone unnoticed -- good ear, Chris!
CLAY-COLORED SPARROW (Spizella pallida)
A somewhat unexpected find at our second stop at Las Minas
BLACK-CHINNED SPARROW (Spizella atrogularis) [*]
Singing briefly west of Perote
LARK SPARROW (Chondestes grammacus)
There was one leafless shrub that quite a few liked to perch in at Xocotitla
YELLOW-EYED JUNCO (MEXICAN) (Junco phaeonotus phaeonotus)
Cofre de Perote
STRIPED SPARROW (Oriturus superciliosus superciliosus) [E]
What a whooper of a sparrow!
SAVANNAH SPARROW (Passerculus sandwichensis)
One teed up long enough for us all to get looks at Xocotitla
LINCOLN'S SPARROW (Melospiza lincolnii)
We encountered a few at Miradores
CANYON TOWHEE (Melozone fusca)
In the dry landscape west of Perote
COLLARED TOWHEE (Pipilo ocai)
A pair of this bold towhee came in nicely for us at Cofre de Perote
YELLOW-BREASTED CHAT (Icteria virens)
Certainly more heard than seen
EASTERN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella magna)
Multiple excellent scope views at Las Barrancas our last morning
MONTEZUMA OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius montezuma)
Love their vocalizations!
ORCHARD ORIOLE (ORCHARD) (Icterus spurius spurius)
Quite a few at Miradores
HOODED ORIOLE (Icterus cucullatus)
Cansaburro was our only encounter
BULLOCK'S ORIOLE (Icterus bullockii bullockii)
I only recall one brief sighting in the highlands
ALTAMIRA ORIOLE (Icterus gularis)
Shockingly orange
BALTIMORE ORIOLE (Icterus galbula)
Fun to see them flying by the hawk watches
RED-WINGED BLACKBIRD (Agelaius phoeniceus)
We encountered a flock along the tributary during our afternoon river cruise
BRONZED COWBIRD (Molothrus aeneus)
Filling up the empty billboard made for a memorable sighting at sunset from the rooftop in Cardel
MELODIOUS BLACKBIRD (Dives dives)
Well-named
GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE (Quiscalus mexicanus)
Their cacophony as they settled into roost in the plaza at Cardel was something else
OVENBIRD (Seiurus aurocapilla)
Sadly, the most memorable one was probably not long for this world
LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia motacilla)
Our one and only encounter occurred just before sunset in El Haya. Its chip note was stout!
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis)
Easily encountered in this region while we were there. I particularly enjoyed that one taking shelter from the wind at Las Barrancas
BLUE-WINGED WARBLER (Vermivora cyanoptera)
One in a mixed flock at Parque Natura
BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER (Mniotilta varia)
Daily
PROTHONOTARY WARBLER (Protonotaria citrea)
A noteworthy species; one was working the road edge at the wetland at La Mancha
CRESCENT-CHESTED WARBLER (Oreothlypis superciliosa)
This beauty received several votes for bird of the tour
TENNESSEE WARBLER (Leiothlypis peregrina)
Another species only seen from the tower at Macuiltepetl
NASHVILLE WARBLER (Leiothlypis ruficapilla)
Scattered throughout the tour
GRAY-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis poliocephala)
At Miradores; some may have only heard it
MACGILLIVRAY'S WARBLER (Geothlypis tolmiei)
Normally hard to get in the bins, our first hard chipper was surprisingly cooperative at Macuiltepetl
KENTUCKY WARBLER (Geothlypis formosa)
One was skulking along the edge of the trail as we were passing through the forest on our way back at Juan Angel
COMMON YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis trichas)
Not as easy to come by as I would have guessed
HOODED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis nelsoni nelsoni) [E]
One of the few species on this tour we had to work for but eventually we scored satisfying views of this endemic
HOODED WARBLER (Setophaga citrina)
Macuiltepetl was THE location to see this striking warbler.....on railings, on stairs, etc.
AMERICAN REDSTART (Setophaga ruticilla)
Conspicuous
NORTHERN PARULA (Setophaga americana)
Best look was at Parque Natura
MAGNOLIA WARBLER (Setophaga magnolia)
Another bird seen well at Parque Natura
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
Mostly coastal but seen almost daily
CHESTNUT-SIDED WARBLER (Setophaga pensylvanica)
An unexpected find at Parque Natura
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (MYRTLE) (Setophaga coronata coronata)
Quite a few on our highlands day
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (AUDUBON'S) (Setophaga coronata auduboni)
Just one up at Cofre de Perote
YELLOW-THROATED WARBLER (Setophaga dominica)
This species gravitates towards palm trees but we saw one on a cattle feed apparatus?!
TOWNSEND'S WARBLER (Setophaga townsendi)
Only on one day but they were common up in the highlands
HERMIT WARBLER (Setophaga occidentalis)
How crazy was it to see this species, in the same tree, at the same time, with the previous species and the next species?&$%!!
BLACK-THROATED GREEN WARBLER (Setophaga virens)
On a few days toward the end of the tour
RUFOUS-CAPPED WARBLER (Basileuterus rufifrons)
Our first sighting was at Parque Natura
GOLDEN-BROWED WARBLER (Basileuterus belli)
Good looks at this striking warbler in the understory at Macuiltepetl
GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (STRIPE-CROWNED) (Basileuterus culicivorus brasierii)
Seen in the darkening understory at El Haya
CANADA WARBLER (Cardellina canadensis)
Good spotting Sharon!
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla)
"Willy!" How many times did we say that? Every Wilson's Warbler in the world must go through Veracruz in the fall
RED WARBLER (WHITE-CHEEKED) (Cardellina rubra rubra) [E]
A real stunner and an endemic to boot
SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus)
I loved watching this colorful warbler's frenetic foraging
SUMMER TANAGER (Piranga rubra)
Heard more than seen
SCARLET TANAGER (Piranga olivacea)
This one got the Mexican birders excited! A male in non-breeding plumage perched in the open several times for us to enjoy from the hawk watch at Chichicaxtle
WHITE-WINGED TANAGER (Piranga leucoptera)
This gorgeous tanager was foraging in the canopy at Macuiltepetl
NORTHERN CARDINAL (Cardinalis cardinalis)
Several stops in the lowlands
ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAK (Pheucticus ludovicianus)
A fair number were around
INDIGO BUNTING (Passerina cyanea)
Mostly flyovers
PAINTED BUNTING (Passerina ciris)
Little green birds
DICKCISSEL (Spiza americana)
Distinctive call notes were hard to miss most mornings overhead but it wasn't until the last morning at Las Barrancas that we finally got one in the scope for good views. I particularly enjoyed seeing the cheeky ones mixed into the flocks of White-winged Doves passing overhead at La Mancha.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
The Mountain Bluebird of the tropics
YELLOW-WINGED TANAGER (Thraupis abbas)
Common and conspicuous
CINNAMON-BELLIED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa baritula baritula)
A few people got on this looker up at Las Minas
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)
"Johnny jump up"
MORELET'S SEEDEATER (Sporophila morelleti)
The males were acting inconspicuous or perhaps in molt
BLACK-HEADED SALTATOR (Saltator atriceps)
More encounters with this saltator than the next species
CINNAMON-BELLIED SALTATOR (Saltator grandis)
A very handsome bird
VARIEGATED SQUIRREL (Sciurus variegatoides)
The only native mammal we saw alive during the tour!
In addition to all the fantastic birds, we saw many amazing butterflies as well. Jeanne has spearheaded cataloging all the species with contributions from Chris and others. Here is a preliminary list:
Jalupus Cloudywing, Band-celled Sister, Celerio Sister, Banded Peacock, White Peacock, Tropical Least Skipper, Common Spurwing, Great Southern White, Giant Metalmark, Variable Banner, Central American Checkered-Skipper, Tropical Checkered-Skipper, Erodyle Checkerspot, Bordered Patch, Crimson Patch, Rosita Patch, Plain Satyr, Eastern Tailed-Blue, Queen, Pavon Emperor, Banded Orange Heliconian, Julia Heliconian, Four-spotted Sailor, Northern Sicklewing, Pale Emesis, Common Banner, Longwing Crescent, Dingy Purplewing, Variegated Fritillary, Mexican Fritillary, Boisduval's Yellow, Barred Yellow, Mexican Kite-Swallowtail, Florida White, Glaucous Cracker, Guatemalan Cracker, Zebra Longwing, Red Postman, Ceraunus Blue, Mangrove Buckeye, Many-banded Daggerwing, Red-bordered Pixie, Forrer's Leafwing, Elf, Variable Swallowtail, Violet-patched Skipper, Thoas Swallowtail, Pine Satyr, Pink-spotted Cattleheart, Glazed Pellicia, Large Orange Sulphur, Cloudless Sulphur, Vesta Crescent, Phaon Crescent, Mexican Anglewing, Tailed Orange, Canna Skipper, Red-striped Leafwing, Malachite, Blomfield's Beauty, Thamyra Satyr, Black-bordered Crescent, Brown Longtail, Plain Longtail, Glassy-winged Skipper, Soldier, Gray Cracker, Red Cracker, Pale-banded Crescent, Dark Kite-Swallowtail, Tropical Buckeye, Mexican Silverspot, Ruby-spotted Swallowtail, and Common Sootywing.
Totals for the tour: 301 bird taxa and 1 mammal taxa