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The sun shining down through the cloudy Bering Sea sky on one of our afternoons on St. Paul. What passing vagrant looked down through the hole and saw a refuge amid the endless sea? Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
This year's fall migration trip to St. Paul Island in the Pribilof Islands was a fun combination of treasure hunting, rarity chasing, and enjoying an unparalleled landscape in the middle of the windswept Bering Sea.
We arrived at the island just in time for an early dinner at the Trident fish processing plant. It may not sound glamorous, but the galley there has a delicious selection of food, and fresh Halibut was up for offer on several nights. We then went out and immediately went searching for a Jack Snipe which had been present intermittently for the past week or so. We had good luck with this quest at Pumphouse Lake- after seeing about eight (!!) Sharp-tailed Sandpipers in the marsh grass of Pumphouse Lake we flushed the Jack Snipe, giving us a great start to our expedition.
The next few days on the island were spent exploring the various nooks and crannies of St. Paul looking for migrants taking shelter in the accessible migrant traps around the island. Despite it being past the peak of shorebirding on the island, some marsh stomping produced more Sharp-tailed Sandpipers and a Common Snipe. The sheltered boulder-lined ravines of the quarry were a hotspot during our time there, producing a couple of Rustic Buntings, a flighty and uncooperative Hawfinch, a few Brambling, and a flyover of a mystery bird that we would have loved to get a good long look at. The roadside at Big Lake produced a Eurasian Skylark of the Asian subspecies (NOT the subspecies introduced to British Columbia from Britain), which cooperated pretty well. Seawatching gave us an impressive number of Ancient Murrelets and Short-tailed Shearwaters, a Marbled Murrelet, Northern (Pacific) Fulmars, Horned and Tufted Puffins, and a few flyby Parakeet Auklets, the latter few species giving us a hint of the cliff inhabitants of the summer season on St. Paul.
We saw a couple of the Bering Sea breeding endemic Red-legged Kittiwakes lingering with the large numbers of their black-legged congeners, got great views of the regional specialty Red-faced Cormorants, and cleaned up the other island breeding endemics with Pribilof (Pacific) Wren, the massive island version of Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch, and the nominate subspecies of Rock Sandpiper, all of which have varying likelihoods of being recognized as their own species down the road. The duckage was interesting too, with a flock of anywhere from a dozen to twenty five (!) Eurasian Wigeons hanging out on Antone Lake, and a few Aleutian Cackling Geese around the island.
On the mammal front, we watched the amusing antics of the multiple litters of Arctic Fox pups (now aging into fox adolescence), experienced awe at the power of a pair of male Orcas hunting the seal colonies, and had multiple encounters with the endemic Pribilof Shrew as it scurried around hoovering up any and all insects it could find. The Northern Fur Seals, of course, are in their own category, and the din of their bustling colonies could be heard from miles away, audible even over the crashing waves and breezy winds.
We departed St. Paul for some final birding around Anchorage. Despite rain for our full day of birding, we managed some wonderfully intimate experiences with Spruce Grouse, American Three-toed Woodpecker, and Boreal Chickadee, and also had some fun with Golden Eagles and White-winged Crossbills. It was a nice way to tie a bow on the trip.
Thank you all for your great camaraderie as we gallivanted through the putchkie patches, marshes, fern gullies, lupine-covered dunes, and crowberry-carpeted volcanos of a place which is really special to me personally. It was a really enjoyable return to birding St. Paul Island in the fall for me, and I'm glad I was able to share it with each and every one of you. Until we next meet, somewhere in this great big bird-verse, good birding!
-Doug
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Here we are towards the end of our time gallivanting around St. Paul Island. The Bering Sea was very good to us in the way of old world rarities. By the end of the trip we had racked up a few really nice ones, from Jack Snipe to Rustic Bunting, and with quite a few goodies in between.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
BRANT (BLACK) (Branta bernicla nigricans)
CACKLING GOOSE (ALEUTIAN) (Branta hutchinsii leucopareia)
CANADA GOOSE (Branta canadensis)
TRUMPETER SWAN (Cygnus buccinator)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Spatula clypeata)
EURASIAN WIGEON (Mareca penelope)
AMERICAN WIGEON (Mareca americana)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca nimia)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (AMERICAN) (Anas crecca carolinensis)
CANVASBACK (Aythya valisineria)
GREATER SCAUP (Aythya marila)
LESSER SCAUP (Aythya affinis)
KING EIDER (Somateria spectabilis)
HARLEQUIN DUCK (Histrionicus histrionicus)
SURF SCOTER (Melanitta perspicillata)
BLACK SCOTER (Melanitta americana)
LONG-TAILED DUCK (Clangula hyemalis)
BUFFLEHEAD (Bucephala albeola)
COMMON GOLDENEYE (Bucephala clangula)
BARROW'S GOLDENEYE (Bucephala islandica)
HOODED MERGANSER (Lophodytes cucullatus)
COMMON MERGANSER (Mergus merganser)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
SPRUCE GROUSE (Falcipennis canadensis)
Spruce Grouse. Another often difficult ghost of the boreal forest, but which we found quite easily on one of our Anchorage days. In fact, we saw multiple individuals extremely well on this morning!! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
HORNED GREBE (Podiceps auritus)
RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PACIFIC GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis fulva)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
SHARP-TAILED SANDPIPER (Calidris acuminata)
ROCK SANDPIPER (PTILOCNEMIS) (Calidris ptilocnemis ptilocnemis)
PECTORAL SANDPIPER (Calidris melanotos)
LONG-BILLED DOWITCHER (Limnodromus scolopaceus)
JACK SNIPE (Lymnocryptes minimus)
COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago gallinago)
WANDERING TATTLER (Tringa incana)
Stercorariidae (Skuas and Jaegers)
POMARINE JAEGER (Stercorarius pomarinus)
The Pribilofs are great in the autumn for avian vagrants from both east and west, but the islands also host some unique native species. One of the most notable is the Pribilof Shrew, which is endemic to St. Paul Island, and which is easiest to see in the autumn. We had several encounters with them, including one that was sniffing and nibbling around our shoes, heedless of the presence of the giant humans looming over it. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Alcidae (Auks, Murres, and Puffins)
THICK-BILLED MURRE (Uria lomvia)
PIGEON GUILLEMOT (Cepphus columba)
MARBLED MURRELET (Brachyramphus marmoratus)
ANCIENT MURRELET (Synthliboramphus antiquus)
PARAKEET AUKLET (Aethia psittacula)
HORNED PUFFIN (Fratercula corniculata)
TUFTED PUFFIN (Fratercula cirrhata)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (POLLICARIS) (Rissa tridactyla pollicaris)
RED-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (Rissa brevirostris)
BONAPARTE'S GULL (Chroicocephalus philadelphia)
MEW GULL (Larus canus)
HERRING GULL (VEGA) (Larus argentatus vegae)
SLATY-BACKED GULL (Larus schistisagus)
GLAUCOUS-WINGED GULL (Larus glaucescens)
GLAUCOUS GULL (Larus hyperboreus)
ARCTIC TERN (Sterna paradisaea)
Gaviidae (Loons)
PACIFIC LOON (Gavia pacifica)
COMMON LOON (Gavia immer)
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
NORTHERN FULMAR (RODGERSII) (Fulmarus glacialis rodgersii)
SHORT-TAILED SHEARWATER (Ardenna tenuirostris)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
RED-FACED CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax urile)
PELAGIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax pelagicus)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos)
NORTHERN HARRIER (Circus hudsonius)
BALD EAGLE (Haliaeetus leucocephalus washingtoniensis)
RED-TAILED HAWK (HARLAN'S) (Buteo jamaicensis harlani)
ROUGH-LEGGED HAWK (Buteo lagopus)
American Three-toed Woodpeckers can be like ghosts in the vast spruce forests of Alaska, but a recent small burn had them coming out of the woodwork (no pun intended) in good numbers! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
AMERICAN THREE-TOED WOODPECKER (Picoides dorsalis)
BLACK-BACKED WOODPECKER (Picoides arcticus)
DOWNY WOODPECKER (Dryobates pubescens)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
CANADA JAY (Perisoreus canadensis)
STELLER'S JAY (Cyanocitta stelleri)
BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE (Pica hudsonia)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Alaudidae (Larks)
EURASIAN SKYLARK (ASIAN) (Alauda arvensis pekinensis)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE (Poecile atricapillus)
BOREAL CHICKADEE (Poecile hudsonicus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH (Sitta canadensis)
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
BROWN CREEPER (Certhia americana)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
PACIFIC WREN (ALASCENSIS GROUP) (Troglodytes pacificus alascensis)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDEN-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus satrapa)
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus calendula)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
AMERICAN ROBIN (Turdus migratorius)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris) [I]
Bombycillidae (Waxwings)
BOHEMIAN WAXWING (Bombycilla garrulus)
The legendary Crab Pots of St. Paul, with a rich history of mind-bendingly rare birds it is one of the Bering Sea's most recognizable vagrant traps. You can walk them twenty times and not see a single bird (in fact we saw no migrants there during our couple of days this year), but on the twenty-first... Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
BRAMBLING (Fringilla montifringilla)
HAWFINCH (Coccothraustes coccothraustes)
GRAY-CROWNED ROSY-FINCH (PRIBILOF IS.) (Leucosticte tephrocotis umbrina)
COMMON REDPOLL (Acanthis flammea)
HOARY REDPOLL (Acanthis hornemanni)
WHITE-WINGED CROSSBILL (Loxia leucoptera)
PINE SISKIN (Spinus pinus)
Calcariidae (Longspurs and Snow Buntings)
LAPLAND LONGSPUR (Calcarius lapponicus)
SNOW BUNTING (Plectrophenax nivalis)
Emberizidae (Old World Buntings)
RUSTIC BUNTING (Emberiza rustica)
Passerellidae (New World Sparrows)
FOX SPARROW (SOOTY) (Passerella iliaca chilcatensis)
DARK-EYED JUNCO (SLATE-COLORED) (Junco hyemalis hyemalis)
WHITE-CROWNED SPARROW (GAMBEL'S) (Zonotrichia leucophrys gambelii)
GOLDEN-CROWNED SPARROW (Zonotrichia atricapilla)
It's not a great photo but this was one of two Rustic Buntings (an East Asian species) we saw on the island in the span of an hour. Kurt spotted this one when it was perched on a rock fairly close, and we were too stunned to get a photo until a few minutes later! Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (MYRTLE) (Setophaga coronata coronata)
TOWNSEND'S WARBLER (Setophaga townsendi)
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
WESTERN TANAGER (Piranga ludoviciana)
PRIBILOF SHREW (Sorex hydrodromus)
RED SQUIRREL (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus)
ORCA (Orcinus orca)
ARCTIC FOX (Alopex lagopus)
STELLER'S SEA LION (Eumetopias jubatus)
NORTHERN FUR SEAL (Callorhinus ursinus)
HARBOR SEAL (Phoca vitulina)
MOOSE (Alces alces)
Autumn is a wonderful time of year to catch up with the adolescent but still cute-as-a-button Arctic Fox pups on St. Paul Island. We saw multiple litters of pups every day on the island, and their antics and cuteness left us smiling after every encounter. Photo by guide Doug Gochfeld.
REINDEER (Rangifer tarandus sibiricus) [I]
Totals for the tour: 102 bird taxa and 9 mammal taxa