Alaska Fall Goldmine: Ross's Gulls in Barrow & Rarities on St. Paul 2017
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Our group (flanked by St. Paul Island Tour guides Phil Chaon and Cameron Cox) celebrates the remarkable sighting of a Short-tailed Albatross circling Killer Whales. Happy birders! Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
The call of the far north led us back to Alaska for this adventurous fall tour. For the first time, we combined our tried-and-true Barrow Ross's Gull tour with a fall migration trip to St. Paul Island in the Bering Sea.
After meeting in Anchorage, we went to bed and then woke up a short time later to enjoy a show from the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights! After returning to bed and getting some aurora-induced sleep, we flew to St. Paul Island where we spent three nights. Birding here in fall entails a combination of seawatching and methodically checking sheltered sites like rock quarries and patches of summer-nourished vegetation called "putchkie". We came here to search for migrants, and with some effort, we ended up with an excellent haul. The Asian birds that we found included Eurasian Wigeon, Gray-tailed Tattler, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Eurasian Skylark, Dusky Thrush, and Red-flanked Bluetail - the latter two are particularly rare. Additionally, we had daily sightings of a roving Gyrfalcon, and also spotted a female Steller's Eider mixed in with Harlequin Ducks. One sighting in particular stood out and needs to be explained a bit further: one afternoon, as we were about to leave Reef Point after viewing Northern Fur Seals up close, we turned around and saw Killer Whales splashing around in the distance offshore. The whales (large, ocean dolphins, actually!) had just made a kill of a fur seal and they were tearing it apart. Focusing on the animals in our scopes, we then noticed a huge dark bird circling the mayhem; with some study, it became clear that this was not only an albatross, but the rare and highly prized SHORT-TAILED ALBATROSS! We spent a while watching this immature bird fly around and occasionally settle on the water, and some frantic cell phone messages allowed the other birders on the island to gather to share the find. We were extremely lucky to witness this rare interaction from shore.
After our great time on St. Paul, we had a day back in Anchorage before flying north to Barrow. Though rainy conditions prevailed for much of the day, we had close views of a Spruce Grouse, an American Three-toed Woodpecker, and Trumpeter Swans, among others. We ended the day with a tasty dinner at an Anchorage restaurant called "Fat Ptarmigan".
Barrow was our final destination on the tour, and we spent our time in this amazing northern outpost combining birding with an extraordinary cultural experience. Not only did we see ~800 migrating Ross's Gulls (seen on each day of our stay!), but Spectacled Eiders, Yellow-billed Loons, and a Gyrfalcon also livened up the party. The flocks of fast but delicate and oh-so-pink Ross's Gulls were the main draw for most people on this tour, and we were able to spend hours watching them. The breezy conditions created a fury of waves breaking on Barrow's beaches, and the Ross's Gulls would occasionally take a break from migrating and pause to forage along the beaches, giving us some jaw-dropping views.
While the birding was amazing at Barrow, we also bore witness to a few memorable cultural events during our stay. First, we watched part of a high school football game on America's northernmost football field - Barrow defeated Nikiski in the Alaska small-school state semifinals while half the town showed up to cheer them on, bundled up in winter clothing. Later, the team would go on to win the state championship! Additionally, our visit overlapped with the fall whaling season for Barrow's native community, and Inupiat whaling crews brought in three Bowhead Whales one day. We were in a position to see the whole process as the community gathered to celebrate the whale and divide up their sustainable harvest. It was astonishing to see Ross's Gulls and Yellow-billed Loons flying over the whale butchering site!
Our journey was a true adventure in some of Alaska's most remote outposts, with some really excellent birding along the way. Thank you for joining me, and I hope you'll always remember this amazing trip.
Tom
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
GREATER WHITE-FRONTED GOOSE (Anser albifrons)
BRANT (BLACK) (Branta bernicla nigricans)
Though many of our Ross's Gulls were seen as they passed by us in fast-flying flocks, others paused alongside us to forage in the waves breaking on the beach. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
TRUMPETER SWAN (Cygnus buccinator)
EURASIAN WIGEON (Anas penelope)
AMERICAN WIGEON (Anas americana)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (AMERICAN) (Anas crecca carolinensis)
GREATER SCAUP (Aythya marila)
This Gyrfalcon was one of two amazing individuals that we enjoyed repeatedly on this tour. Photo by guide Tom Johnson
LESSER SCAUP (Aythya affinis)
STELLER'S EIDER (Polysticta stelleri)
SPECTACLED EIDER (Somateria fischeri)
KING EIDER (Somateria spectabilis)
COMMON EIDER (PACIFIC) (Somateria mollissima v-nigrum)
This Red-flanked Bluetail, a migrant from Asia, was one of the rarest birds of the tour. The possibility of seeing vagrants from Asia was one of the reasons we were excited about adding the St. Paul Island portion of the trip this year! Photo by participant Lyle Hamilton.
HARLEQUIN DUCK (Histrionicus histrionicus)
WHITE-WINGED SCOTER (NORTH AMERICAN) (Melanitta fusca deglandi)
BLACK SCOTER (Melanitta americana)
LONG-TAILED DUCK (Clangula hyemalis)
BUFFLEHEAD (Bucephala albeola)
COMMON GOLDENEYE (Bucephala clangula)
BARROW'S GOLDENEYE (Bucephala islandica)
COMMON MERGANSER (Mergus merganser)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
SPRUCE GROUSE (Falcipennis canadensis)
Gaviidae (Loons)
PACIFIC LOON (Gavia pacifica)
Participant Mary Trombley captured this image of the Northern Lights outside our hotel in Anchorage on the first night of the tour, a fun experience for those of us who got out of bed.
YELLOW-BILLED LOON (Gavia adamsii)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
HORNED GREBE (Podiceps auritus)
Diomedeidae (Albatrosses)
SHORT-TAILED ALBATROSS (Phoebastria albatrus)
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
NORTHERN FULMAR (RODGERSII) (Fulmarus glacialis rodgersii)
SHORT-TAILED SHEARWATER (Ardenna tenuirostris)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
RED-FACED CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax urile)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
BALD EAGLE (Haliaeetus leucocephalus washingtoniensis)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PACIFIC GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis fulva)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
SHARP-TAILED SANDPIPER (Calidris acuminata)
This vagrant Dusky Thrush was a wonderful sighting on St. Paul Island, and it was kind enough to sit out on top of an exposed rock so that we could enjoy it in the scope and take photos. Photo by participant Nancy Buck.
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
ROCK SANDPIPER (Calidris ptilocnemis)
ROCK SANDPIPER (PTILOCNEMIS) (Calidris ptilocnemis ptilocnemis)
PECTORAL SANDPIPER (Calidris melanotos)
WESTERN SANDPIPER (Calidris mauri)
RED PHALAROPE (Phalaropus fulicarius)
GRAY-TAILED TATTLER (Tringa brevipes)
WANDERING TATTLER (Tringa incana)
Alcidae (Auks, Murres, and Puffins)
THICK-BILLED MURRE (Uria lomvia)
BLACK GUILLEMOT (MANDTII) (Cepphus grylle mandtii)
Thanks to Mary's sharp eyes, we all got to enjoy this Spruce Grouse on the outskirts of Anchorage. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
LEAST AUKLET (Aethia pusilla)
HORNED PUFFIN (Fratercula corniculata)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (POLLICARIS) (Rissa tridactyla pollicaris)
ROSS'S GULL (Rhodostethia rosea)
MEW GULL (Larus canus)
HERRING GULL (AMERICAN) (Larus argentatus smithsonianus)
ICELAND GULL (THAYER'S) (Larus glaucoides thayeri)
GLAUCOUS-WINGED GULL (Larus glaucescens)
Just moments before we saw the Killer Whales and Short-tailed Albatross from St. Paul Island, we were admiring Northern Fur Seals up close. The breeding colony of fur seals here plays a huge role in the ecology of the island as well as its human history. Photo by participant Lyle Hamilton.
GLAUCOUS GULL (Larus hyperboreus)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
Strigidae (Owls)
SNOWY OWL (Bubo scandiacus)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
DOWNY WOODPECKER (Picoides pubescens)
HAIRY WOODPECKER (Picoides villosus)
AMERICAN THREE-TOED WOODPECKER (Picoides dorsalis)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
GYRFALCON (Falco rusticolus)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
GRAY JAY (Perisoreus canadensis)
STELLER'S JAY (Cyanocitta stelleri)
The sight of these Spectacled Eiders migrating past Barrow meant that we had found all four of the world's eider species in our short time together. Spectacular! Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE (Pica hudsonia)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Alaudidae (Larks)
EURASIAN SKYLARK (ASIAN) (Alauda arvensis pekinensis)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE (Poecile atricapillus)
BOREAL CHICKADEE (Poecile hudsonicus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH (Sitta canadensis)
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
BROWN CREEPER (Certhia americana)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
PACIFIC WREN (ALASCENSIS GROUP) (Troglodytes pacificus alascensis)
Cinclidae (Dippers)
AMERICAN DIPPER (Cinclus mexicanus)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDEN-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus satrapa)
On our rainy day birding the Anchorage area, we had the good fortune to find this lovely American Three-toed Woodpecker. Photo by participant Lyle Hamilton.
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus calendula)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
RED-FLANKED BLUETAIL (Tarsiger cyanurus)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
SWAINSON'S THRUSH (Catharus ustulatus)
HERMIT THRUSH (Catharus guttatus)
DUSKY THRUSH (Turdus eunomus)
AMERICAN ROBIN (Turdus migratorius)
While birding along the coast in Barrow, we used our van as a windblock to keep from being blown around. At times, the wind dropped off and conditions were perfectly lovely, too! Photo by participant Lyle Hamilton.
VARIED THRUSH (Ixoreus naevius)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris) [I]
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
AMERICAN PIPIT (RUBESCENS/PACIFICUS) (Anthus rubescens pacificus)
Calcariidae (Longspurs and Snow Buntings)
LAPLAND LONGSPUR (Calcarius lapponicus)
SNOW BUNTING (Plectrophenax nivalis)
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (MYRTLE) (Setophaga coronata coronata)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
FOX SPARROW (SOOTY) (Passerella iliaca chilcatensis)
FOX SPARROW (RED) (Passerella iliaca zaboria)
DARK-EYED JUNCO (SLATE-COLORED) (Junco hyemalis hyemalis)
DARK-EYED JUNCO (OREGON) (Junco hyemalis oreganus)
WHITE-CROWNED SPARROW (GAMBEL'S) (Zonotrichia leucophrys gambelii)
SAVANNAH SPARROW (Passerculus sandwichensis)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
GRAY-CROWNED ROSY-FINCH (PRIBILOF IS.) (Leucosticte tephrocotis umbrina)
COMMON REDPOLL (Acanthis flammea)
The views were better in the scope, but I wanted to include this image since it shows our Short-tailed Albatross wheeling up and to the right of two Killer Whale dorsal fins! We were standing at Reef Point on St. Paul Island. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
HOARY REDPOLL (Acanthis hornemanni)
PINE SISKIN (Spinus pinus)
PRIBILOF SHREW (Sorex hydrodromus)
RED SQUIRREL (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) [*]
During our visit to Barrow, we caught part of a high school football game on America's northernmost football field - oh, and Ross's Gulls flew by while we were there! Barrow's team defeated Nikiski in this game, and then went on to win the small-school state championship with their next game. The kids here are tough! Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
NEARCTIC BROWN LEMMING (Lemmus trimucronatus)
ORCA (Orcinus orca)
BELUGA (Delphinapterus leucas)
BOWHEAD WHALE (Balaena mysticetus)
ARCTIC FOX (Alopex lagopus)
This juvenile Gray-tailed Tattler walked around in front of us at close range at Marunich on St. Paul Island. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
NORTHERN FUR SEAL (Callorhinus ursinus)
HARBOR SEAL (Phoca vitulina)
Totals for the tour: 94 bird taxa and 9 mammal taxa