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Top of the tour's hit parade was the spectacular Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. Photo by participant Don Grade.
When it comes to forest primeval, few places on earth match Guyana, which still boasts a lion's share of its original rainforest. Though the coast is pretty developed -- with all the bustle, commotion and habitat destruction that accompanies development -- much of the interior is virtually untouched. When you can bird in the middle of a country's main north-south highway without getting run over (indeed, without having to scurry to the edge more than 4 or 5 times an hour), you know you're in a pretty special place!
Our tour started with a day along the coast -- split between the small Mahaica river and its surrounding agricultural fields, a steamy mangrove forest and the bustling Georgetown botanical gardens -- and then moved inland for the rest of the trip. After a visit to the spectacular Kaieteur Falls (the tallest single drop waterfall in the world), we headed to the vast Iwokrama Forest, a million acres of preserved land in the heart of the country. Two nights each in a trio of lodges (one along the banks of the mighty Essequibo, one in the middle of the rainforest and one near the forest's southern border) let us explore multiple corners of this wonderful preserve. We finished with a couple of nights in the tiny village of Yupukari, in the middle of the sweeping Rupununi savanna. And everywhere we went, there were birds -- lots and lots and LOTS of birds!
Along the coast, a Gray-breasted Crake made a surprise guest appearance (standing on a grassy mound right in the open), and a Rufous Crab-Hawk called from a shady mangrove. A pair of Silvered Antbirds twitched through streamside vegetation, peeking out at us from mere feet away. Dozens of Hoatzins, looking like birds designed by Dr. Suess, spun and curtsied along the banks of the Mahaica. Blood-colored Woodpeckers inspected mangrove trunks and deciduous branches. A pair of Toco Toucans chattered in a spreading treetop. Red-shouldered Macaws nibbled fruits just over our heads. At Kaieteur, a trio of Paradise Jacamars swirled through a dying tree, Cliff Flycatchers launched themselves repeatedly skyward, and we spotted a Pale-tailed Barbthroat and a female Fork-tailed Woodnymph sitting in bushes right across the path from each other.
In Iwokrama, half dozen Crimson Fruitcrows, including a panting male displaced after several minutes by a Red-fan Parrot, showed nicely on several days. A Fiery-tailed Awlbill alternately perched in a treetop, or danced above it, hunting gnats. A juvenile Harpy Eagle gazed at us from a nearby treetop, occasionally letting slip a plaintive call that we translated as "won't somebody please feed me." (The adult we saw the next day was considerably farther away.) A male Guianan Cock-of-the-rock pirouetted on his carefully selected perches, his amazing orange plumage glowing in the scattered beams of sunlight that broke through the canopy. Not one but TWO Tawny-bellied Screech-Owls peered sleepily from holes in trees. A clown car's worth of Gray-winged Trumpeters scuttled across the "highway" -- and minutes later scuttled back again. Ladder-tailed Nightjars hovered overhead, hunting insects in the dark.
A Golden-spangled Piculet investigated the tiniest twigs in a streamside bush. Capuchinbirds rocked and hummed on their display perches, nuptial feathers flared like orange puffballs on their legs. Black Curassows stalked across a grassy clearing. A male Cream-colored Woodpecker zipped in to land in a nearby tree. White-plumed and Rufous-throated antbirds flitted above a boiling mass of army ants. A stunning Pectoral Sparrow shuffled through the leaf litter, then bounced up into some understory trees. A trio of noisy Cayenne Jays and a singing Finsch's Euphonia enlivened a late afternoon walk. A Long-tailed Potoo peered from its day roost, its wide yellow eyes rather spoiling its "I'm just a tree stump" imitation. A silent Black Manakin visited an otherwise empty lek, just down the path from a busy lek full of White-crowned Manakins. Screaming Pihas sang from every corner. And who will soon forget Tiffany's reaction to that male Pompadour Cotinga sitting atop a roadside tree?!
In the Rupununi, a Giant Anteater loped through a pasture full of horses, raising nary a head. A White-naped Xenopsaris chortled from a grove near a gas station. A tiny Crested Doradito peered from the dead stems of last season's grasses. Jabirus soared over the savanna, dwarfing the Wood Storks they flew with. Scores of White-tailed Hawks, in every possible plumage, circled over a savanna fire. A Tropical Screech-Owl called and called and called from a tree right across the street from our lodge, peering wide-eyed into the dark. White-tailed Nightjars swirled around an island of trees, diving into cover and then flashing out again. Male Blue-backed Manakins gleamed against leafy greenness. Legions of Lesser and Band-tailed nightjars swarmed above the spreading lily pads of Bizzee-Bizzee pond, while a rising frog chorus chirred below them.
Thanks so much for joining Ron and me for some adventures in Guyana. Your good humor (coping with the occasional rain squall, late meal, cloud of sand fleas, or mechanical problem) and fine companionship made this trip a lot of fun to guide. I hope to see you all again somewhere soon!
-- Megan
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BIRDS
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
En route to Iwokrama, we made a visit to mighty Kaieteur Falls, highest single drop waterfall in the world. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
CINEREOUS TINAMOU (Crypturellus cinereus) – We heard the clear whistles of this species near the Buro-Buro camp, while we feasted our eyes on the Fiery-tailed Awlbill. [*]
LITTLE TINAMOU (Crypturellus soui) – Best heard while we sat at the lily pond along the Rupununi River, when one whistled softly in the distance. [*]
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) – The louder four-note call of this tinamou was a counterpoint to the previous species at the lily pond near Yupukari. [*]
RED-LEGGED TINAMOU (Crypturellus erythropus) – One called and called and called and called from the forest just beyond the edge of the Georgetown-Lethem "highway", but just wouldn't come out to where we could see it. [*]
VARIEGATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus variegatus) – We heard one calling from the forest around the Iwokrama River Lodge, as we walked out to the Capuchinbird lek in the half-light of a soggy early morning. [*]
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata) – A trio of wary birds stood among the water hyacinth leaves in a shrunken pond along the highway, not far from where we made our turn to Yupukari.
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata) – A gang of six waddled along the back side of a sand bar on the Essequibo River, seen as we made our way to (and from) Turtle Mountain. We had a couple of others in flight at the lily pond near the Rupununi River, flashing their big while wing patches.
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
VARIABLE CHACHALACA (Ortalis motmot) – A late afternoon visit to a gravel quarry near Atta Rainforest Lodge netted us nice scope views of one rusty bird perched up in a Cecropia tree -- and a rousing chorus (FIVE O'CLOCK, FIVE O'CLOCK, FIVE O'CLOCK) from another group.
MARAIL GUAN (Penelope marail)
SPIX'S GUAN (Penelope jacquacu)
BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis) – Two in trees along the Buro-Buro provided a fine finale to our boat trip, giving everybody (eventually!) a good look; we even heard the wing rattle of one, though we didn't see it fly.
BLACK CURASSOW (Crax alector) – Seen well on several days, including a male high in a tree along the trail out to the Capuchinbird lek, and a pair wandering the grounds near the dining room at Atta Rainforest Lodge.
Odontophoridae (New World Quail)
CRESTED BOBWHITE (Colinus cristatus) – A frustratingly uncooperative bird slunk off the side of the road into Yupukari, disappearing into the taller grass. Though we could mark its progress by the wiggling stems, we never saw it again!
Ciconiidae (Storks)
MAGUARI STORK (Ciconia maguari) – Single birds in a couple of roadside ponds, seen as we drove across the hot savanna towards Yupukari.
JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria) – A couple soared high over the savanna as we approached Yupukari on our drive from Atta, and we saw others on our drive out to the Crested Doradito spot the following day.
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana) – Two flew past over a big savanna lake (nearly dry when we were there), seen as we climbed out of the vans to start our walk to "Bush Island".
Fregatidae (Frigatebirds)
MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens) – A few in Ron's vehicle spotted one drifting high above the sea as we drove along the coast our first morning.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
The rooms at the Atta Rainforest Lodge are solidly constructed and quite comfortable, with lovely (high-walled) outdoor showers that allow you to bird while bathing! Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga) – A single female seemed to have a favorite drying spot along the Essequibo; we saw her on "her" rock on two different days. We spotted another in the water at Bizzee-Bizzee Pond, doing its best snake imitation.
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
PINNATED BITTERN (Botaurus pinnatus) – One in a marshy puddle along the main highway was little more than a stripey neck and rigid yellow bill protruding from the grasses. Fortunately, we spotted a couple of others in another pond in the Rupununi savanna which showed a bit better.
COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi) – Regular throughout, including one perched high in a streamside tree along the Buro-Buro River and a few hunting from rocks in the middle of the Essequibo.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
TRICOLORED HERON (Egretta tricolor)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) – Abundant along the coast, hovering around the feet of various livestock -- both tethered and free-ranging.
STRIATED HERON (SOUTH AMERICAN) (Butorides striata striata)
CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus) – Surprisingly, we saw only a single bird, flapping away across Bizzee Bizzee pond near the Rupununi late one afternoon.
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius) – A handful seen hunting along the edges of the Rupununi in the spotlight as we motored back towards the boat launch. The huge eye and huge beak of this nocturnal species are distinctive.
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
SCARLET IBIS (Eudocimus ruber) – A few disappointingly distant birds at Hope Beach poked among the mangroves on mud quickly disappearing beneath the rising tide.
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – One flew past us, calling, as we started our boat trip along the Buro-Buro River, and we saw a few others foraging along the edge of the Rupununi River.
Greater Yellow-headed Vultures are restricted to primary forest, like that in Iwokrama Forest. This one was right beside the clearing at Atta Rainforest Lodge. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja) – A line of 12 flamboyantly pink birds flew past over the Rupununi savanna, just beyond the spot where we found our Burrowing Owls.
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus) – Most days, including some massive kettles circling over hot fields in the savanna and along the coast.
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura) – Reasonably common along the coast; resident birds have a thick white band across the nape.
LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus) – At least one quartered above the Mahaica River, dropping close enough to our boats that we could clearly see its colorful head, and we saw others rocking over the Rupununi savanna. This species is found in more open habitats (i.e. grasslands, savanna, rice fields) than is the next.
GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes melambrotus) – Regular over the forests of Iwokrama, with super views of one sitting low in the trees near Atta Rainforest Lodge, trying desperately (and unsuccessfully) to dislodge a down feather from its nostril.
KING VULTURE (Sarcoramphus papa) – Single adults soared above Turtle Mountain, the Buro-Buro trail and the clearing at Atta Rainforest Lodge, showing the distinctively broad, two-toned wings of this species.
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – Including one in a treetop along the Essequibo. This is a winter visitor to Guyana.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
PEARL KITE (Gampsonyx swainsonii) – A pair in a couple of dead trees near the Surama Eco-Lodge were a great start to our first afternoon's walk there. One sat on a stick nest, and a second preened near the edge of a nearby tree. [N]
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus) – A youngster in a tree top along the road in to Yupukari still showed a fair number of reddish breast streaks.
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus) – Regular in small numbers over the forest, hunting gracefully for insects.
HARPY EAGLE (Harpia harpyja) – Wow!! It was a long, hot hike in to last year's nest site, but the sudden appearance of the now-fledged youngster, who dropped into a nearby treetop to gaze at us and call for its parents, made it all worthwhile. We spotted a more distant adult, surrounded by a moving phalanx of fired-up caracaras, sitting far out in the canopy visible from the canopy walkway the following morning.
BLACK HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus tyrannus)
BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis) – Our best views came along DeHoop Branch road, where we found one perched on a post in the middle of a field.
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – Scores along the coast, including a male on a telephone wire along the coast highway demonstrating the effectiveness of its lethal beak by prying a large snail from its shell.
PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea) – Quite common along the roads and rivers throughout, typically perched atop dead snags.
The Crimson Fruitcrow is certainly an eye catcher, particularly when it's panting right out in the open! It's replaced by a Red-fan Parrot towards the end. Video by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
RUFOUS CRAB HAWK (Buteogallus aequinoctialis) – One calling from a shady mangrove near Abari took a while to find, but we persevered, and -- with a bit of "climbing into the bushes" got scope views of a handsome adult.
SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis) – A couple of birds hunting around the Surama Eco-lodge allowed nice study. We saw others along the Mahaica River.
GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga) – An immature, looking tall and streaky, sat on an open limb over the Essequibo River, calling occasionally -- presumably in a vain attempt to attract the attention of an adult. We saw adults in flight over the highway on several days.
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris) – Regular throughout, including a couple of calling birds that flew past over the runway just before we started our walk at Kaieteur Falls. Their rufous flight feathers are distinctive.
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus) – Very common on the Rupununi savanna, including scores swirling over the front lines of the fires people had set to burn off the dead grasses; we saw just about every possible plumage variation!
BLACK-FACED HAWK (Leucopternis melanops) – Brief but fabulous views of one of these small hawks in the midstory of the lush forest along the Buro-Buro trail -- right about the time we stopped for our snack break.
GRAY-LINED HAWK (Buteo nitidus) – Another widespread species, including a couple hunting from television aerials right around our Georgetown hotel.
ZONE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albonotatus) – One flew low over the Mahaica River, shortly after we started our boat trip, and another circled high above the clearing at Atta.
Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)
Green-tailed Jacamars were common along the Mahaica River. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
GRAY-BREASTED CRAKE (Laterallus exilis) – One calling from a roadside marsh on DeHoop road eventually stood atop a small tussock for several long seconds before melting back into the vegetation.
GRAY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus) – One strolled out onto the "highway" at quite a leisurely pace -- until it saw us, that is; then, it scuttled rapidly to the other side and disappeared into the vegetation.
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinicus)
Aramidae (Limpkin)
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna)
Psophiidae (Trumpeters)
GRAY-WINGED TRUMPETER (Psophia crepitans) – A line of birds trotted along the edge of the "highway" for a few dozen yards before venturing somewhat hesitantly across. They returned -- a lot faster -- some half hour later, bolting from the undergrowth like they'd been fired from a cannon.
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
DOUBLE-STRIPED THICK-KNEE (Burhinus bistriatus) – Two trotted along a little ridge near Yupukari village, weaving their way among small trees and the omnipresent termite mounds.
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus) – Two flew past us down the Essequibo River, their beautifully patterned wings flashing, as we headed toward Turtle Mountain. We saw others standing on sand bars along the Rupununi River.
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) – Several pairs pattered along the edges of some of the rice paddies along DeHoop Branch Road, periodically announcing their presence with loud calls.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana) – Particularly common in the wetlands of the Rupununi savanna, with fine views of several striding across the lily pads at Bizzee Bizzee Pond; we saw others along the DeHoop Branch road on our first morning.
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
Swallow-winged Puffbirds were regular throughout the tour, typically flycatching from dead snags along roads and rivers. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes)
SEMIPALMATED SANDPIPER (Calidris pusilla) – An injured bird, showing a massive wound on its chest, huddled along the shore at Hope Beach. Like all shorebirds in Guyana, this species is pretty heavily hunted along the coast.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
YELLOW-BILLED TERN (Sternula superciliaris) – One hunted over the rapids just upstream from the Iwokrama River Lodge, and we saw a few others while traveling to and from Turtle Mountain. This little tern strongly resembles the Least Tern, but has darker wingtips.
LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex) – One seen at the start of our evening boat trip out of the Iwokrama River Lodge, sharing the rapids with the previous species. The boldly patterned wings of this big tern species are distinctive.
ROYAL TERN (Thalasseus maximus)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) – Dozens perched in trees along the edges of the Rupununi River or flew back and forth across it. We saw a few others around the Mahaica River on our first morning.
SCALED PIGEON (Patagioenas speciosa) – Our best views came along the Potoo trail at Surama, where we scoped a pair sitting in a leafless tree -- where it was very easy to see how they got their name.
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea) – We heard the "up cup a COO" call of this species regularly in Iwokrama forest, but never actually spotted one. [*]
RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea) – Also heard regularly in Iwokrama forest, but we spotted one from the canopy tower one morning.
COMMON GROUND-DOVE (Columbina passerina) – Particularly common at Surama, where we found several trundling around under the cabins near the dining room.
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti) – Regular in the open areas along the DeHoop Branch road on our first morning.
RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon montana) – A few of these chunky forest doves flew across the Essequibo, seen as we headed towards Turtle Mountain, and we saw another walking through the leaf-littered underbrush in the forest near Yupukari.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)
We saw plenty of Hoatzins along the Mahaica River; they look like birds as designed by Dr. Seuss! Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata) – Regular on the Rupununi savanna, where we had scope views of a few sitting in some of the spindly little trees.
Opisthocomidae (Hoatzin)
HOATZIN (Opisthocomus hoazin) – One of the highlights of our boat trip down the Mahaica River were dozens of these rather bizarre-looking birds flapping on bush tops along the banks. They appeared to be doing some sort of threat display, flaring their colorful wings and tails in our direction as we floated past, and growling throatily from the bushes. This is Guyana's national bird.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
LITTLE CUCKOO (Coccycua minuta) – Several, looking small and rusty, in hedgerows along DeHoop road on our first morning, or along the Mahaica River later in the day.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)
MANGROVE CUCKOO (Coccyzus minor) – Wonderful looks at a territorial bird along a track near Abaty shortly after we started our walk there.
STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia) – One singing from the top of a bush along DeHoop Branch road raised and lowered its crest in time with its song.
GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major) – Two of these big, pale-eyed anis flicked through mangroves along the edge of a dirt track, not far from where we found our Rufous Crab-Hawk.
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)
Strigidae (Owls)
TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba) – Super views of one tooting in a tree right across the street from Caiman House on our last night there.
TAWNY-BELLIED SCREECH-OWL (Megascops watsonii) – One snoozed in a tree hole along the Harpy Eagle trail, with just his head showing. A second stood in a hole entrance near the Cock-of-the-Rock trail, showing the tawny belly that gives it its common name.
SPECTACLED OWL (Pulsatrix perspicillata) – Arg! One called and called and called from a tree along the entrance road into the Iwokrama River Lodge, but the only view we got was of it sailing off over the huge trees down the road as it headed off to hunt.
GREAT HORNED OWL (Bubo virginianus) – One flushed up to the top of Bush Island as we checked the ground for nightjars, and spent the rest of our visit peering down at us.
A Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl blinks sleepily from its roost hole along the Harpy Eagle trail. Photo by participant Don Grade.
BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia) – Fine views of two alert birds standing among the grass tussocks and termite mounds along a dirt track through the savanna, en route to the Crested Doradito spot.
BLACK-BANDED OWL (Ciccaba huhula) – We heard one calling from the black forest as we stood on the canopy walkway hoping for the White-winged Potoo to make an appearance. [*]
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
LEAST NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles pusillus) – Several over Bizzee Bizzee Pond, distinguished from the next species by their very small size and the white trailing edge to their wing.
LESSER NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles acutipennis)
SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis semitorquatus) – A few folks happened to be looking in the right direction when one made a brief appearance over our boats as dusk fell along the Essequibo River. Unlike the more cooperative Ladder-tailed Nightjars, this species is dark (with only a white throat patch) and short-tailed.
BAND-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Nyctiprogne leucopyga) – Good numbers flapped over the lily pond near the Rupununi, appearing like magic out of the trees around us.
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis) – A point blank bird growled at us from the roadside near the Surama Ecolodge, seen in the light of a fat full moon (and a spotlight) by those who did the night walk there.
WHITE-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis cayennensis) – Stunning views of several (some only briefly, others perched up) at Bush Island in the Rupununi savanna, where they swirled around the treed area.
LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis climacocerca) – Two hunted over one of the little islands in the Essequibo River, occasionally landing in a scrubby tree.
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis) – One snoozed in a spreading tree near Surama village, presumably peeking at us through the three triangular notches in its eyelids.
LONG-TAILED POTOO (Nyctibius aethereus) – One stood stockstill atop a broken snag along the Harpy Eagle trail -- though its wide-open eye rather spoiled the "I'm just a tree stump" imitation.
A female White-tailed Nightjar burst into the open when one of the Yupukari guides went into a nearby thicket to see what was about. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
WHITE-WINGED POTOO (Nyctibius leucopterus) – Arg! We could hear two calling as they coursed back and forth over the dark forest near the Atta canopy walkway, but their regular roost branch had apparently (according to Gabriel, the lodge guide) just recently broken off its tree. [*]
Apodidae (Swifts)
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)
SHORT-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura brachyura)
BAND-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura spinicaudus) – A flock feeding low over the highway on the day we drove from Surama to Atta gave us our best views, when they dove down against the vegetation so that we could see that distinctive rump patch.
GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura cinereiventris) – These far outnumbered the previous species in the various mixed flocks we found.
LESSER SWALLOW-TAILED SWIFT (Panyptila cayennensis) – A few of us spotted one gliding overhead as we started down the Potoo trail at Surama -- just about the time we found our first Finsch's Euphonia.
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata) – A few of these long-tailed swifts circled over several of the palm oases we passed in the Rupununi savanna.
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
CRIMSON TOPAZ (Topaza pella) – Two males danced over the Essequibo River late our first afternoon at Iwokrama, jousting over the flowers in a riverside tree. Though the light was beginning to fail, we could certainly see the distinctive tail streamers. We also saw a perched female briefly from Atta's canopy tower.
PALE-TAILED BARBTHROAT (Threnetes leucurus) – One sat, pumping his tail and peering around (between catnaps) on an eye-level branch along the trail at Kaieteur Falls, allowing great scope studies -- thanks to some great spotting by Thomas, the ranger who accompanied us.
LONG-TAILED HERMIT (Phaethornis superciliosus)
REDDISH HERMIT (Phaethornis ruber) – Frustratingly tough this year, with a handful seen in flight around flowers along the highway on several days.
There aren't too many places where you can park yourself in the middle of the main highway from a country's capital city to its border and not get run over! Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
WHITE-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus guainumbi)
GREEN-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus theresiae) – One in a tree along the Kaieteur Falls trail allowed us all to study it in the scope -- and to compare it to the pictures in various field guides!
FIERY-TAILED AWLBILL (Avocettula recurvirostris) – Wow! One hunting insects from the top of a big tree near the Buro-Buro camp was a real treat, returning again and again to the same handful of twigs -- which allowed us to repeatedly study that wonderfully weird bill in the scope.
RUBY-TOPAZ HUMMINGBIRD (Chrysolampis mosquitus) – A female in a tree along the Potoo trail at Surama -- right below our first Finsch's Euphonia -- showed the distinctively bushy crest of this species. Too bad her male wasn't around!
BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis)
LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris) – Two perched atop bushes along the Surama entrance road, seen when we stopped to scan the hillside there for Harpy Eagles.
BLUE-TAILED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon mellisugus) – One visited the flowers in the garden at Caiman House, seen by many.
BLUE-CHINNED SAPPHIRE (Chlorestes notata)
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata) – A female, low in the vegetation near the trail out to Kaieteur Falls, proved very cooperative, sitting in the sunshine for long minutes while we all enjoyed her in the scope.
WHITE-CHESTED EMERALD (Amazilia brevirostris) – Regular around the flowers blooming in front of Cara Lodge -- particularly the yellow Pride of Barbados bushes.
PLAIN-BELLIED EMERALD (Amazilia leucogaster)
Trogonidae (Trogons)
BLACK-TAILED TROGON (Trogon melanurus) – We spotted a male along the north-south highway, close enough that we could see his pale eye.
GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis) – A calling male along the Essequibo worked his way right out to the river's edge, and many of us watched a female bash an insect to death in a tree right off the back deck of our Yupukari hotel.
GUIANAN TROGON (Trogon violaceus) – A pair of these smaller trogons flicked through riverside tangles along the Essequibo, right in the same area as the previous species. There must have been a fruiting tree there somewhere!
BLACK-THROATED TROGON (Trogon rufus) – It took a bit of tracking on Ron's part, but we all eventually got nice views of a singing male along the highway on our last morning in the forest.
Momotidae (Motmots)
AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota) – Nice views of one peering down from a tree along the trail on Turtle Mountain. This was one of several species split from the old "Blue-crowned Motmot" complex.
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata) – Common throughout, including several flashing down the Essequibo River in front of our boats.
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona) – Scattered individuals, with especially nice views of one along the DeHoop Branch road our first morning. Unlike the next species, this one is unspotted above.
A cooperative Spotted Puffbird got our hike along the Harpy Eagle trail off to a good start. Photo by participant Don Grade.
GREEN-AND-RUFOUS KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle inda) – One swooped in and landed right beside us as we made our way back down the Buro-Buro River towards the end of our boat trip. It proceeded to lead us down the river, giving us repeated fine chances for study -- and photography!
AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle aenea) – We heard one calling from the river below us while we sat on the benches near the Buro-Buro River camp, but just couldn't find it among the overhanging vegetation. [*]
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
PIED PUFFBIRD (Notharchus tectus)
SPOTTED PUFFBIRD (Bucco tamatia) – One near the start of the Harpy Eagle trail showed us first its back and then its spotty front.
BLACK NUNBIRD (Monasa atra) – The trio hunting around the Buro-Buro boat launch gave us especially nice close views; we had others elsewhere in Iwokrama forest, including a few near the clearing on Turtle Mountain.
SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa) – Easily the most common of the tour's puffbirds, seen on many days -- including good numbers perched high in treetops (usually dead ones) along the various rivers, and along the edges of the north-south highway.
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
GREEN-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula galbula) – Our first was a female perched along the Mahaica River; we saw another in one of the big trees along the road down to the river in Yupukari.
BRONZY JACAMAR (Galbula leucogastra) – One in a white sand area along the highway posed nicely for the scopes -- nice spotting, Tiffany!
PARADISE JACAMAR (Galbula dea) – Seen on several days, with especially nice looks at a trio hunting (and perching repeatedly on a long, leafless branch) near the trail at Kaieteur Falls.
GREAT JACAMAR (Jacamerops aureus)
Capitonidae (New World Barbets)
BLACK-SPOTTED BARBET (Capito niger) – One bounced through the big tree holding up one of the platforms along the canopy walkway, pausing just over our heads. What a stunner!
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
A Great Potoo does its best "Don't mind me, I'm just a tree stump" imitation near Surama village. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
BLACK-NECKED ARACARI (Pteroglossus aracari) – Reasonably common, and seen especially well along the Essequibo River, where we watched a little band of them moving through the treetops near the river.
GUIANAN TOUCANET (Selenidera piperivora) – We had especially nice views of a couple checking out a fruiting tree near the canopy walkway. That yellow ear patch is distinctive.
TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco) – Two of these big toucans worked their way through a spreading tree in the Georgetown Botanical Garden -- one of the highlights of the afternoon.
WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus) – By far the most common toucan of the tour, seen well on most days -- often yelping from a treetop somewhere!
CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos vitellinus)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
GOLDEN-SPANGLED PICULET (Picumnus exilis) – One of these tiny woodpeckers crept around in an open bush along the Buro-Buro River, eventually giving everybody a great look.
WHITE-BELLIED PICULET (Picumnus spilogaster) – This one took a bit more effort; we heard one calling and drumming for ages at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, but it took most of the afternoon to track it down. And then, it spent much of its time in the darkest, densest roadside trees, making it a challenge to get a good look! Eventually though, we got there.
YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus) – All-too-brief views of one of these snazzy woodpeckers along the Potoo trail; it hitched its way up a trunk, jumped to a couple of bigger branches and then flew away.
GOLDEN-COLLARED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis cassini)
BLOOD-COLORED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis sanguineus) – Well, it took us some work -- and a hot walk along a track near Abaty -- but we finally got very nice views of a foraging male. And once the jinx was broken we found others: another male hanging over our heads at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, and a female sharing a tree with a White-bellied Piculet a half hour later.
YELLOW-THROATED WOODPECKER (Piculus flavigula)
CHESTNUT WOODPECKER (Celeus elegans) – Darwin spotted one clinging to the side of a tree near the highway, on one of our first stops as we headed south towards Surama.
CREAM-COLORED WOODPECKER (Celeus flavus) – A male flew in and landed in a tree along the Buro-Buro trail, clinging to the side of a big, unblocked trunk and allowing super scope studies. What a gorgeous bird!
RINGED WOODPECKER (Celeus torquatus) – Particularly nice views of a female excavating a nest cavity along the Essequibo River, and of a male hammering on a series of tree trunks around the edges of the clearing at the Atta Rainforest Lodge.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)
A female Crimson-crested Woodpecker keeps a close eye on a passing Merlin. Video by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
BLACK CARACARA (Daptrius ater) – Especially nice views of a pair perched near the top of a dying tree above the boat launch at the Iwokrama River Lodge. And why this one isn't called Red-faced, since it has a redder face than the next species, is beyond me!
RED-THROATED CARACARA (Ibycter americanus)
CRESTED CARACARA (Caracara cheriway) – Regular throughout, including one sitting on a fence post near the savanna fires on the drive into Yupukari.
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)
LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
MERLIN (Falco columbarius) – One zipped back and forth through the Georgetown Botanical Gardens, drawing the undivided attention of the female Crimson-crested Woodpecker we were watching. Eventually it caught some small, unidentified bird and retired to a nearby tree to finish it off.
BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis) – Particularly nice views of a little male perched in a tree beside the Essequibo River. We saw several pairs perched up on roadside snags; the difference in size between males and females was striking.
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots)
GOLDEN-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chrysoptera) – Quite common in Iwokrama forest, where we came across numerous small noisy groups.
CAICA PARROT (Pyrilia caica) – One shared a tree with the next species along the country's north-south highway, seen on our drive south from Iwokrama River Lodge.
DUSKY PARROT (Pionus fuscus)
BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus) – Fine views of a few sitting in treetops around the clearing at the Iwokrama River Lodge, with others along the Essequibo.
FESTIVE PARROT (Amazona festiva)
BLUE-CHEEKED PARROT (Amazona dufresniana) – Several small flocks flew past as we waited for the chachalacas to make an appearance.
YELLOW-CROWNED PARROT (Amazona ochrocephala)
MEALY PARROT (Amazona farinosa)
A Scarlet Macaw stretches its beautiful wings along the Buro-Buro River. From the looks of that frazzled tail, it's got a nest somewhere! Photo by participant Don Grade.
BLACK-HEADED PARROT (Pionites melanocephalus)
RED-FAN PARROT (Deroptyus accipitrinus) – A quintet perched and chattering along the highway were a treat -- even if they never DID fan those fans! One later chased our first male Crimson Fruitcrow off its perch.
PAINTED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura picta) – Common in the forest, with some fairly large groups seen well as they gobbled palm fruits along the highway.
BROWN-THROATED PARAKEET (Eupsittula pertinax) – A few foraging on the ground along the DeHoop Branch road showed nicely for those in my bus, and we saw others fly past while on our boat trip along the Mahaica. Our next chance to see sitting birds didn't come until Surama, where we had small numbers perched along the dusty roads. The subspecies found in Guyana -- surinama -- is mustard yellow below and on the face.
BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna) – Seen mostly in noisy flight -- often along the Essequibo River -- with brief views of a couple perched in one of the big trees at the Georgetown Botanical Garden.
SCARLET MACAW (Ara macao) – Fine scope studies of a pair perched in a tall leafless tree along the highway, showing well the yellow wing patches that help to distinguish them from the next species. We had another pair along the Buro-Buro River.
RED-AND-GREEN MACAW (Ara chloropterus) – The most common of the tour's macaws, seen on many days -- including one perched up (and glowing) high on the hill overlooking Kaieteur Falls.
RED-SHOULDERED MACAW (Diopsittaca nobilis) – Our best looks probably came at the Georgetown Botanical Garden, where we found a little group of them feeding in a roadside tree. These little macaws aren't a whole lot bigger than Painted Parakeets!
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
BLACK-CRESTED ANTSHRIKE (Sakesphorus canadensis) – A rusty female danced through the brush along the trail at Abary, calling repeatedly.
BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus) [*]
MOUSE-COLORED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus murinus)
NORTHERN SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus punctatus) – A pair creeping through some cut brush along the track down to the Rupununi River on our afternoon's walk let us get extremely close.
AMAZONIAN ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus amazonicus)
The gang waits in the "departure lounge" at the Karanambu airstrip. Photo by Megan Edwards Crewe.
RUFOUS-BELLIED ANTWREN (Isleria guttata)
PYGMY ANTWREN (Myrmotherula brachyura) [*]
GUIANAN STREAKED-ANTWREN (Myrmotherula surinamensis) – Fine views of one in heap of dead branches along the Buro-Buro trail. This only recently gained full species status.
WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris) – A pair danced through the tangled vegetation over the trail down to the farm fields outside Yupukari, seen by those who did our final pre-breakfast walk there.
SPOT-TAILED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus sticturus)
TODD'S ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus stictocephalus)
GUIANAN WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis cantator)
GRAY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra cinerascens)
DUSKY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra tyrannina)
BLACK-CHINNED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemoides melanopogon) – A female bathed along the edge of one of the ponds near Yupukari, seen as we waited (in vain) for the Crestless Curassow to make an appearance.
SILVERED ANTBIRD (Sclateria naevia) – A pair bounced through the mangroves around our boat, shortly after we started our journey down the Mahaica River. This species is typically found in wet areas: swamps, stream edges and mangrove forests.
SPOT-WINGED ANTBIRD (Schistocichla leucostigma) [*]
WHITE-BELLIED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza longipes) – Tiffany and I had super views of a singing male in the gallery forest down near the Rupununi River on our final morning's pre-breakfast walk.
FERRUGINOUS-BACKED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza ferruginea) – One crept back and forth through the undergrowth along the Buro-Buro trail, occasionally flicking out into an open spot on the ground, a branch or a fallen log where we could see it.
WHITE-PLUMED ANTBIRD (Pithys albifrons) – One foraging for long minutes just above a boiling mass of army ants along the highway was a treat.
RUFOUS-THROATED ANTBIRD (Gymnopithys rufigula) – One with the previous species over the army ant swarm along the highway -- great spotting, Tiffany!
Grallariidae (Antpittas)
SPOTTED ANTPITTA (Hylopezus macularius) [*]
THRUSH-LIKE ANTPITTA (Myrmothera campanisona) – We heard the distinctive whistles of this species while walking to the Atta canopy towers our first morning there. [*]
Formicariidae (Antthrushes)
RUFOUS-CAPPED ANTTHRUSH (Formicarius colma) – One called (and called and called) from the forest along the trail to the Buro-Buro River, but just wouldn't come closer. [*]
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
The Yellow-chinned Spinetails around Narish's house were so tame that we could get close enough to clearly see that eponymous yellow chin. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
AMAZONIAN BARRED-WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes certhia)
STRIPED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus obsoletus) [*]
STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus) – Stupendous views of one crawling up tree trunks -- and the wooden legs of the water tank cradle -- at Narish's home, with others around Yupukari.
PLAIN XENOPS (Xenops minutus)
PALE-LEGGED HORNERO (Furnarius leucopus) – Hans spotted one along the Mahaica River, but the rest of the group didn't catch up with this species until Yukukari, where we found a pair flicking along the edge of one of the ponds.
YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
WHITE-LORED TYRANNULET (Ornithion inerme)
CRESTED DORADITO (Pseudocolopteryx sclateri) – Super views of one the guys found shortly after we arrived at the only known location for this species in Guyana. It's a fairly new discovery -- the local rancher found them and knew they were something he hadn't seen before!
YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus)
FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii) – One flicked through the canopy of a wooded area near the farm plots down near the Rupununi River, seen by those who did our final pre-breakfast walk.
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)
PLAIN-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia cristata) – A singing bird in a bush along the fence line by our Surama hotel posed nicely, giving us the chance to check out its plain (i.e. not white) crest in the scopes.
LESSER ELAENIA (Elaenia chiriquensis)
RUFOUS-CROWNED ELAENIA (Elaenia ruficeps)
OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus)
SLENDER-FOOTED TYRANNULET (Zimmerius gracilipes) – One flicked through vegetation along the edge of the road out of Surama village, peering at us from between the leaves. Hard to see that its feet were any more slender than anything else's though!
PALE-TIPPED TYRANNULET (Inezia caudata) – Two along the edge of the mangroves near Abari -- hunting in the same area as our first Spotted Tody-Flycatcher -- were pretty confiding.
SHORT-TAILED PYGMY-TYRANT (Myiornis ecaudatus) [*]
HELMETED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus galeatus) – A couple hunting in the woods near Yupukari, not far from the Blue-backed Manakin lek showed well for some and not at all for others.
The tiny Crested Doradito has only recently been found in Guyana; it's known from a small region in the central Rupununi savanna. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum) – Seen especially well along the edge of the DeHoop Branch road on the coast, when a hunting pair twitched through roadside bushes right beside us.
YELLOW-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flaviventris)
CLIFF FLYCATCHER (Hirundinea ferruginea) – A few of these cinnamon-colored flycatchers sat atop snags amid the canopy in the forest around Kaieteur Falls.
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus) – A bright male and duller females hunted from fence posts, tall weeds and low tree branches across the highway from the gas station where we stopped en route to Yupukari.
PIED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola pica)
WHITE-HEADED MARSH TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala)
LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus) – Two hunted from dead snags along the highway, their long tails giving them a distinctive silhouette.
CINNAMON ATTILA (Attila cinnamomeus) [*]
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus) [*]
GRAYISH MOURNER (Rhytipterna simplex)
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer) [*]
SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox)
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus)
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor) – Best seen at the oxbow lake near Yupukari, where a calling pair danced through the lower branches of a tree near where we were sitting.
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis) – Common and widespread throughout, including a pair regularly hanging out in the much-pruned tree in the covered courtyard of our Georgetown hotel.
YELLOW-THROATED FLYCATCHER (Conopias parvus)
PIRATIC FLYCATCHER (Legatus leucophaius) – One had claimed a nest in the Yellow-rumped Cacique colony at Surama, and was loudly proclaiming his territory from the top of the colony tree.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
GRAY KINGBIRD (Tyrannus dominicensis) – A few with some Tropical Kingbirds at the Georgetown Botanical Garden
FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Tyrannus savana)
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
It wasn't just birds that caught our attention. This pair of dragonflies brightened the edge of the creek where we spotted our Giant Otter; the upper is Diastatops pullata and the lower is probably Erythrodiplax castanea. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
GUIANAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK (Rupicola rupicola) – Wow! What's not to love about a Day-glo orange bird with an orange slice stuck to the top of its head?! We watched one dance from shade to sun and back again, moving repeatedly from the ground to the mid-canopy, edging ever closer to where we sat watching. This was the only species to make everyone's "top 3 birds" list.
CRIMSON FRUITCROW (Haematoderus militaris) – A pair dazzled us along the highway, flicking from perch to leafless perch in a dead tree -- until they were chased off by a Red-fan Parrot, that is! We saw three others, including a rather orangey youngster, around the clearing at Atta Rainforest Lodge.
PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROW (Querula purpurata) – Our best views came on the drive between IRL and Surama, when we found a pair calling and feeding along the highway. We heard their bubbling calls pretty regularly in the rainforest.
CAPUCHINBIRD (Perissocephalus tricolor) – We waited out an early morning cloudburst, then headed out to the lek once it was merely raining (instead of pouring) and spent a very satisfying 30 minutes watching these aberrant cotingas rock and puff out the little orange nuptial feather balls at the base of their tails and moo at each other. Crazy birds!
PURPLE-BREASTED COTINGA (Cotinga cotinga)
SPANGLED COTINGA (Cotinga cayana)
SCREAMING PIHA (Lipaugus vociferans) – This was certainly the voice of the rainforest, with scores of them singing from every direction in the Iwokrama forest. We had fine views of several as they sang -- and if birds had tonsils, we would have been seeing those too, given how wide they open their mouths!
POMPADOUR COTINGA (Xipholena punicea) – A male and two females atop some roadside trees along the highway on our last morning in Iwokrama were certainly the highlight for a few folks!
Pipridae (Manakins)
TINY TYRANT-MANAKIN (Tyranneutes virescens)
BLUE-BACKED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia pareola) – A few males popping around in the midstory along the trail down to the oxbow lake in Yupukari were a highlight of our second afternoon's walk there.
WHITE-THROATED MANAKIN (Corapipo gutturalis) – A male along the Harpy Eagle trail showed his namesake white throat nicely, and we found a nest with two snoozing youngsters (in lots of pin feathers) near the Atta parking area. This is a Guianan Shield specialty.
BLACK MANAKIN (Xenopipo atronitens) – One sat, small and black and silent, on a perch in a known lek in a white sand area along the highway, not far from a noisy bunch of White-crowned Manakins.
WHITE-CROWNED MANAKIN (Dixiphia pipra) – Great scope studies of several "singing" males on a lek -- always on thin branches 10-15 feet above the ground -- in a stretch of white sand forest along the highway. The birds in Guyana (the nominate subspecies pipra) sound completely different than those in Central America (of the anthracina subspecies, also known as "Zeledon's Manakin").
GOLDEN-HEADED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra erythrocephala erythrocephala)
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
BLACK-TAILED TITYRA (Tityra cayana)
OLIVACEOUS SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis olivacea)
CINEREOUS MOURNER (Laniocera hypopyrra)
A busy White-crowned Manakin lek made for an entertaining stop on our drive to Surama village. Photo by participant Don Grade.
WHITE-NAPED XENOPSARIS (Xenopsaris albinucha) – A calling male flitted through a few scruffy trees near the edge of the parking lot at a gas station we visited en route to Yupukari.
CINEREOUS BECARD (Pachyramphus rufus) – One at Georgetown Botanical Gardens was distinguished by its very plain wing and undertail.
PINK-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus minor) – A bright throated male foraging low along the Harpy trail was less cooperative than his rusty mate.
Vireonidae (Vireos, Shrike-Babblers, and Erpornis)
LEMON-CHESTED GREENLET (Hylophilus thoracicus) [*]
SLATY-CAPPED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius leucotis) – One bounced through the tops of several trees around the Atta Rainforest Lodge clearing, proving exceptionally difficult for most of the group to get a look at, though a few looking in the right spot at the right time saw it very well indeed. We certainly all HEARD it well -- and repeatedly!
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) [*]
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
CAYENNE JAY (Cyanocorax cayanus) – A trio moved through some tall trees near the start of the Potoo trail at Surama, pausing regularly in the open for a good look around.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BLACK-COLLARED SWALLOW (Pygochelidon melanoleuca) – Small numbers, including some newly fledged youngsters, sat sprinkled on the rocks strewn across the Essequibo River.
WHITE-BANDED SWALLOW (Atticora fasciata) – Common along the Buro-Buro River, where we saw many perched on downed snags.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)
BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera) – Common over the Rupununi savanna, with especially nice views of the ones around the gas station.
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer) – Especially common over the fields along DeHoop Branch road, with some seen perched on fence wires there.
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
HOUSE WREN (SOUTHERN) (Troglodytes aedon clarus) – Common along the coast, including one chortling from trees and shrubs right around our Georgetown hotel.
BICOLORED WREN (Campylorhynchus griseus)
CORAYA WREN (Pheugopedius coraya) [*]
BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis) – Certainly heard regularly, but seeing them proved more of a challenge. Most of the group spotted a pair bouncing through the shrubs hanging out over the Buro-Buro River towards the end of our boat trip.
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
Palm Tanagers were ubiquitous, particularly around the Iwokrama River Lodge, where they were nesting in the dining room rafters. Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe.
TROPICAL GNATCATCHER (Polioptila plumbea) – A pair in the same tree as the Gold-spangled Piculet along the Buro-Buro River were nicely confiding.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
PALE-BREASTED THRUSH (Turdus leucomelas) – Especially common in Georgetown, including a noisy half dozen or so around our hotel.
COCOA THRUSH (Turdus fumigatus)
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus gilvus)
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
BLACKPOLL WARBLER (Setophaga striata) – A drab winter bird along the Buro-Buro River was a hit; it's fun to see "our" birds down hobnobbing with the tropical locals.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CAPPED CARDINAL (Paroaria gularis) – Almost ridiculously common around Yupukari, with a flock of 15 sharing some dead twigs along the Rupununi River and another big group -- including several brown-headed youngsters -- foraging in the bare earth in front of a house in the village.
HOODED TANAGER (Nemosia pileata)
FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus cristatus) – A small group along the Harpy trail gave us an excuse to stop for a few minutes.
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo) – By far the most common tanager of the trip, seen nearly every day, often in sizable numbers. The male preening in the tree right off the dining room balcony at the Iwokrama River Lodge gave us particularly good opportunity for study.
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus)
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum)
BURNISHED-BUFF TANAGER (Tangara cayana) – Common around the lodge at Yupukari, including one resting in a tree right outside the dining room one afternoon.
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola)
BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata) – A couple with a mixed honeycreeper flock in a small tree along Atta's entrance road.
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana)
PURPLE HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes caeruleus) – A chattering gang in a treetop along the Kaieteur Falls trail were a bit distant; fortunately, the birds along Atta's entrance road were much lower and closer.
RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus) – Some flicked through the red flowers of a blooming vine high above the Atta clearing, but we got better views of another with the honeycreeper flock along the entrance drive.
GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza)
GUIRA TANAGER (Hemithraupis guira)
A handsome Rose-breasted Chat -- which is not a chat at all, but a cardinal relative -- and his mate swirled around us along the highway one morning. Photo by participant Don Grade.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina) – Very common along the coast, with lots of males doing their endearing little courtship (or territorial) displays -- leaping a foot or so off their perch while uttering their buzzy call. It's easy to see why their Caribbean nickname is "Johnny jump up!"
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila castaneiventris) – A few foraged over the boats as we waited for everyone to gather for our first Essequibo River trip.
RUDDY-BREASTED SEEDEATER (Sporophila minuta)
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEED-FINCH (Sporophila angolensis) – Reasonably common in the grasslands around Surama, where their rich, warbling song was a regular part of the tour soundtrack. Unfortunately, that song -- and their handsome plumage -- is what makes them popular with the caged bird trade.
WING-BARRED SEEDEATER (Sporophila americana) – Fine views our first morning of several right beside the road -- showing well those distinctive wingbars -- on our drive to the Mahaica River.
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila nigricollis)
PLUMBEOUS SEEDEATER (Sporophila plumbea)
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)
BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus)
GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens) – Including a few seen well in one of the flowering trees at Georgetown Botanical Garden.
SLATE-COLORED GROSBEAK (Saltator grossus) [*]
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
PECTORAL SPARROW (Arremon taciturnus) – A singing bird crept through the underbrush along the trail down to the Buro-Buro River, eventually working his way up into low viny tangles.
GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis) – Our first was one perched up near the fence at Surama, and we saw (many) others in the grasslands of the Rupununi savanna.
Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies)
YELLOW-GREEN GROSBEAK (Caryothraustes canadensis) – Some saw one singing from a stick poking out of the canopy at Atta on our morning on the canopy walkway. Unfortunately, he didn't stay long after we spotted him.
RED-AND-BLACK GROSBEAK (Periporphyrus erythromelas) – Our first was a young male who sang (and sang and sang) from the forest on both sides of a logging trail in Iwokrama; it gave us brief views as it flew from one side of the road to the other. We saw an adult male fly across the highway -- but had no better luck finding it once it landed!
ROSE-BREASTED CHAT (Granatellus pelzelni) – A pair worked their way through some tangles along the highway, with the male providing some spectacular views as he sang from various perches.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
A tree full of nesting Yellow-rumped Caciques made for noisy neighbors at Surama. Video by Megan Edwards Crewe.
RED-BREASTED BLACKBIRD (Sturnella militaris) – Regular along DeHoop Branch road, with a scattering of others on the Rupununi savanna, near where we looked for the Crested Doradito. Despite its common name, this is actually a meadowlark.
CARIB GRACKLE (Quiscalus lugubris)
YELLOW-HOODED BLACKBIRD (Chrysomus icterocephalus) – Small numbers in the fields along DeHoop Branch road.
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus) – Very common around Iwokrama River Lodge, where good numbers stomped around the grassy lawns, courting and searching for tasty morsels.
EPAULET ORIOLE (MORICHE) (Icterus cayanensis chrysocephalus) – Two with some Blue-crowned Parrots along the edge of the clearing at Iwokrama River Lodge delayed some of us on our walk back from the Capuchinbird lek; we saw another pair near the top of a roadside tree along the highway as we drove south towards Surama.
YELLOW ORIOLE (Icterus nigrogularis) – Many of these bright birds showed well along the DeHoop Branch road, en route to our Mahaica River boat trip; we saw others around Yupukari.
YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela) – The mob nesting in the tree right outside the main building at Surama certainly allowed great opportunity for study; unfortunately, they also cut short any attempts at sleeping until it got light out, as things were typically underway well before then! [N]
RED-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus haemorrhous) – A couple of big colonies along the north-south highway, calling and flashing their scarlet rumps as they moved through the trees.
GREEN OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius viridis) – Regular in Iwokrama Forest, including one perched in a snag overlooking the clearing at Iwokrama River Lodge our first morning there.
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
PLUMBEOUS EUPHONIA (Euphonia plumbea) – A female in the clearing at the end of the Buro-Buro trail distracted us briefly from the Fiery-tailed Awlbill show.
FINSCH'S EUPHONIA (Euphonia finschi) – A male, singing lustily from a tree near the start of Surama's Potoo trail (not far from our Pearl Kites) gave a great start to our late afternoon's walk. The dark bib of this species quickly separates it from the yellow-chinned Violaceous Euphonia.
VIOLACEOUS EUPHONIA (Euphonia violacea) – Several flitted through the big trees shading the building at the end of the Buro-Buro trail, providing other things to look at while we waited for the awlbill to return.
GOLDEN-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chrysopasta) – One of these rather drab euphonias sat in a bush beside Surama's Potoo trail; its pale gray lores are distinctive.
MAMMALS
COMMON OPOSSUM (Didelphis marsupialis) – The slower folks on our night walk at the Iwokrama River Lodge spotted one scrambling up a tree along the entrance road.
LONG-NOSED BAT (Rhynchonycteris naso) – A group of a dozen or so clung to the steep cliff-like bank of the Rupununi River, seen as we motored downstream towards the Bizzee Bizzee Pond landing. This species is commonly found roosting over water.
RED HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta seniculus)
GUIANAN SAKI MONKEY (Pithecia pithecia) – One along the Turtle Mountain trail (seen shortly before the downpour started) proved a bit challenging to find as it crept off into the dense canopy.
BLACK SPIDER MONKEY (Ateles paniscus)
GIANT ANTEATER (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) – One loping across the range was a highlight of our morning on the Rupununi savanna; the nearby horses were clearly used to seeing anteaters, as they COMPLETELY ignored it.
KINKAJOU (Potos flavus) – One slithered down the guy wires at the canopy walkway and tightroped its way away from us along the rope "railing", and we heard another one squealing from the forest around us.
GIANT OTTER (Pteronura brasiliensis) – One splashed around under one of the narrow wooden bridges we crossed on the Georgetown-Letham Highway.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
We saw a number of reptiles and amphibians on the tour as well. Here are the ones we were able to identify:
Brown Vine Snake (Oxybelis aeneus): One in the north-south highway did a funny "two steps forward, one step back" dance across the road when we stopped to watch it.
Green Vine Snake (Oxybelis fulgidus): Another road snake, which quickly made its way up into some roadside vegetation.
Emerald Tree boa (Corallus caninus): One snoozed in a tree over the Buro-Buro River, not far from where we launched our boat.
Fire Snake (Chironius scurrulus)
South American Rattlesnake (Crotalus durissus): Finding one coiled in the leaf litter in a tree island in the middle of the Rupununi Savanna was a surprise. Fortunately, it didn't seem to be too freaked out by our presence!
Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus): One lurked along the edge of the creek where we found our Giant River Otter.
Black Caiman (Melanosuchus niger): Plenty of these big caiman floated along the edges of the Rupununi River, their big eyes catching the gleam of our spotlights; we also saw a big female that reacted pretty strongly to Ron's imitation of a calling male.
Dwarf Caiman (Paleosuchus palpebrosus): This was the tiny caiman we found motionless under a tree limb right at the start of our Buro-Buro boat trip.
Yellow-legged Tortoise (Chelonoidis denticulata): This was the first (larger and more ambulatory) tortoise we found along the north-south highway.
Red-legged Tortoise (Chelonoidis carbonaria): This was the second (smaller and pulled in) tortoise we found along the north-south highway.
Amazonian Horned Frog (Ceratophrys cornuta): This was the amazingly camouflaged frog Gabriel found snoozing in the leaf litter just off the side of the Atta entrance road.
Golden Rocket Frog (Anomaloglossus beebei): These were the tiny yellow frogs we found in the big tank bromeliads at Kaieteur Falls. They're endemic to the plateau there.
Totals for the tour: 354 bird taxa and 8 mammal taxa